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Charles  Fletcher  Lummis,  Archaeological 

istitute  of  America.  Southwest  Society,  Sequoya  League 


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The  Natioji  Back  of  Us,    The   World  in    Front. 


Out    West 


A  Magazine  of 

The  Old  Pacific  and  the  New 


(FORMKKLY  THE  LAND  OF  SUNSHINE) 


EDITED    BY 

Chas.   K.   Ivtimmis 


*^TAVP—  David  Siarr  Jordan,  Joaquin  Miller,  Theodore  H.  Hittell,  Mary  Hallock  Foote,  Margaret 

CoUicr  Graham,  Charles  Warren  Stoddard,  Grace  Ellery  Channinir,  Ina  Coolbrith,  William 

K.-iih,   Dr.    Wafihinston    Matthews,   Geo.    Parker    Winship,    Frederick   Webb  Hodare. 

Charles  F.  Holder.  Edwin  Markham,  Geo.  Hamlin  Fitch,  Chas.  Howard  Shinn. 

Wm.  E.   Sraythe,  T.  S.  Van  Dyke,  Chas.  A.  Keeler,  Louise  M.  Keeler, 

A.   P.   Harmer,  !♦.  Maynard   Dixon,  Charlotte   Perkins  Stetson 

Oilman,  Constance  Goddard  Dn  Bois,  Batterman  Lindsay, 

Charles    Dwiirht    Willard,   Elizabeth  and  Joseph 

Grinnell.  Frederick  Starr,  Sharlot  M.  Hall, 

Ella  Hifferiiison,  Mary  Austin. 


Volume  XXITI 
July  to  December,  1905 


Our    Wkst     Magazine    Company 

Los  Angelks,  Cal. 


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OUT  WEST. 

INDEX   TO    VOLUME   XXIII. 


PAGE 

Adobe   Ruin,   An    (poem),   Neeta   Marquis 40 

Against  Regulations   (story),  Judith  Graves  Waldo 41 

Ancient  Craft,  Reviving  an,  illustrated,  Chas.  F.  Lummis 539 

Angelica,  The  Dragon  (story),  Mabel  Avery  Rundell  Abbott ^^y 

An  Oasis   (story),  illustrated,  Alan  Owen 551 

Archaeological  Institute  of  America,  Southwest  Society 

84,    187,    285,   369,   486,595 

Attitude  of  South  America  Toward  the   Monroe   Doctrine,  The,   A.   J. 

Lamoureaux    169 

Battle,  A  Transplanted   (story),  R.  W.  Hofflund 133 

Beautiful    Havasu,    The    Great    Arm    of   the    Grand    Canon,    illustrated, 

Sharlot    M.    Hall 305 

Bedaloc.    The    Elusive    Fish    of,    illustrated,  Margaret  Troili  329 

Better  Than  Gold  (story),  Philip  J.  Newman 265 

Bird  Hunting  With  a  Camera,  illustrated,  Grace  Adele  Pierce 15 

Book  Reviews,  Charles  Amadon  Moody 93,  293,  377,  500,  600 

Burbank,    Luther,    Scientist,    Honor ia  R.  P.  Tuomey  201 

California  Newspaper,  The  First,  illustrated,  W.  J'.  Handy 59,  152,  359 

California   Possibilities,   Som€,   A.   J.   Wells 345 

Cataract  Canon,  illustrated,  Sharlot  M.  Hall 305 

Characteristics    of    Mountain     Streams    of    Southern     California.    J.    B. 

Lippincott    75 

Colorado,  The  (poem) ,  Theresa  Russell 112 

Colton,  illustrated,  Tacie  M.  Hanna 505 

Constant  Ones,  The  (poem),  Nora  May  French 357 

'Trish  Divils"  (story),  M.  W.  Loraine 580  • 

Dragon,  Angelica,  The  (story),  Mabel  Avery  Rundell  Abbott ^^7 

Fish  of  Bedaloc,  The   Elusive,   illustrated,   Margaret  Troili 329 

First  California  Newspaper,  The,  illustrated,  W.  J.   Handy 59.   152,  359 

Foley's  Wards   (story),  P.  S.  Leland 350 

Fountains  and  Ponds   for  the  Home  Garden,  illustrated,   Helen  Lukens 

Jones   27 

Fremont,  John  C — His  Rocky  Mountain  Flag.     Frontispiece 2 

Fruit  of  the  Yucca  Tree,  The  (story),  Sharlot  M.  Hall 569 

Future  of  San  Diego,  The,  illustrated,  William  E.  Smythe 193 

Godfather  of  'Tittle  Breeches,"  The,   illustrated    332 

(jold,  Better  Than  (story),  Philip  J.  Newman 265 

Great  Arm  of  the  Grand  Caiion,  The,    Beautiful     H4vasu,    illustrated, 

Sharlot    M.    Hall 305 

Hay,  John,  the  origin  of  his  "Little   Breeches,"  illustrated   332 

Home  Garden,  Fountains  and  Ponds  for  the,  illustrated,  Helen  Lukens 

Jones    27 

Hope  (poem) ,  S.  Raymond  Jocelyn 349 

Humming  Bird's  Nest,  A,  illustrated,  M.  G.  Jenison 319 

Landmarks  Club,  The,  illustrated,  "To  Conserve  the  Missions  and  Other 

Historic  Landmarks  of  Southern  California,". .  .87,  185,  257,  374,  496,  599 
Land  of  Mystery,  A,  illustrated,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer 525 


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I 


INDEX  iii 

PAGB 

I-ast   Volcanic   Eruption    in   the   United   States,    The,    Harold    W.    Fair- 
banks,   Ph.    D 4 

Libraries  in  the  United  States 190 

Lion*s  Den,  In  the  (by  the  Editor) 83,  173,  277,  363,  490,  587 

"Little  Breeches,"  The  Godfather  of,  illustrated    332 

Location,  On   (poem),  Leroy  Hennessey 99 

Long    Beach,    illustrated,    Harriet    Hardin  Gage    613 

Los  Angeles  and  the  Owens  River,  illustrated,  Charles  Amadon  Moody..  417 

Los  Gatos,  illustrated  411 

Madrono,  The   (poem),  Genella  Fitzgerald  Nye 320 

Man  and  His  Hair,  A 371 

Marin's    Untraveled    Road,    illustrated,  D.  Donohoe.  Jr 321 

Mercy  of  Nah-ne,  The  (poem),  Sharlot  M.  Hall 3 

Mirage,  The   (poem),  Theresa  Russell 550 

Monroe   Doctrine,   The   Attitude  of   South   America   Toward   the,   A.   J. 

Lamoureaux    169 

Mormonism,  The  Truth  About,  illustrated,  President  Joseph  F.   Smith, 

of  the  Church  of  Latter-Day  Saints 239 

Mountain  Spring,  The   (poem),  Tom  Veitch 13 

Mountain  Stream  Characteristics  of  Southern  California,  J.  B.  Lippincott.     75 

Mountain  View,  illustrated  401 

Mrs.  Bumper's  Investment   (story),  Courtenay  De  Kalb 160 

Mystery,  A  Land  of,  illustrated,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer. 525 

Nah-ne,  The  Mercy  of  (poem),  Sharlot  M.  Hall 3 

Noon   (poem),  Nora  May  French 58 

Oasis,  An  (story),  Alan  Owen 551 

On  Location  (poem),  Le  Roy  Hennessey 99 

Owens  River,  Los  Angeles  and  the,  illustrated,  Charles  Amadon  Moody..  417 
Owens  River  Project,  Social  Significance  of  the.  illustrated,  William  E. 

Smythe    443 

Ow^ns    Valley,    The    Reclamation    Service    and    the,    illustrated,    F.    H. 

Newell,   Chief    Engineer 454 

Palo  Alto,  illustrated   403 

Peril,  The  Yellow,  Rene  Van  Bergen     48 

Pinnacles  of  San  Benito  County,  The,  illustrated.  Schuyler  G.  Hain 127 

Possibilities,  Some  California,  A.  J.  Wells 345 

Prayer  of  the  Bound  (poem),  Ethel  Griffith 538 

Promise  of  the  Sierras,  The  (poem),  D.  S.  Richardson 82 

Reclamation    Service    and    the    Owens    Valley,    The,    illustrated,    F.    H. 

Newell,    Chief    Engineer 454 

Redwood  King,   The    (story),  George  Burchard   576 

Riverside,   illustrated    515 

Reviving  an  Ancient  Craft,  illustrated,  Chas.   F.  Lummis 539 

"Rocky  Mountain  Flag,"  John  C.  Fremont's,  Frontispiece 2 

Ruin,  An  Adobe  (poem),  Neeta  Marquis 40 

Sacajawea,   illustrated,  F.  W.    Fletcher 1 13,  223 

Salt  Lake  City,  illustrated,  Edward  F.  Colburn 297 

San  Benito  County,  The  Pinnacles  of,  illustrated,  Schuyler  G.  Hain 127 

San  Diego  Owns  the  Future,  illustrated,  Wm.  E.  Smythe 193 

San  Jacinto,  illustrated,  Francis  Miner  Moody 621 

San  Jose  and  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  illustrated — Santa  Clara,  Mountain 
View,   Palo   Alto,   Los   Gatos 3^5 


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iv  INDEX 

PAGE 

Santa  Clara  Mission  About   1849,  The,  Frontispiece 304 

Santa  Clara  Valley,  San  Jose  and  the,  illustrated — Santa  Clara,  Mountain 

View,   Palo   Alto,    Los   Gatos 385 

Santa  Teresita  of  the  Shoe  (story),  Sharlot  M.  Hall 143 

Sequoya  League.  The,  "To  Make  Belter  Indians". .  .8g.  183.  291.  375.  497.  598 

Shekinah.  The  (poem),  Frederick  Hall    575 

Sierras,  The  Promise  of  the  (poem),  D.  S.  Richardson 82 

Social   Significance  of  the  Owens  River  Project,  illustrated,  William   E. 

Smythe    443 

Sons  of  the  Soil  (story),  Eugene  M.  Rhodes 474 

South    America.    Her    Attitude    Toward    the    Monroe     Doctrine,     A.    J. 

Lamoureaux    169 

Southern  California,  Mountain  Stream  Characteristics  of.  J.  B.  Lippincoit  75 

Southwest   Society.  Archaeological   Institute  of  America 

84.    187,   285,  369,  486,  595 

Stream,  The  (poem),  Robinson  Jeffers 331 

Stockton,  illustrated,  Colvin  B.  Brown 603 

Susurro   (poem ) .  Arthur  B.  Bennett 74 

Tavern  of  the  Sun  (poem),  Kathryn   A.   Turney    326 

That  Which  Is  Written  (Book  Reviews).  Charles  Amadon  Moody 

93.    293,    m,    500,600 

Tics,  illustrated.  Margaret  Troili 545 

Time  We  Came,  The    (story),   Theresa  Russell 69 

Transplanted  Battle,  A   (story).  R.  W.   Hofflund 133 

Truckee.   When  the   Gates  Were  Lifted   on   the,  illustrated,   William   E. 

Smythe    , loi 

Truth   About    Mormonism,   The.   illustrated.   President  Joseph    F.    Smith 

of  the  Church  of  Latter-Day  Saints 239 

Untraveled    Road,    Marin's,    illustrated,    I).    Donohoe.   Jr 321 

Volcanic  Eruption  in  the  United  States.  The  Last,  illustrated.  Harold  W. 

Fairbanks.  Ph.  D 4 

Water    Out    of    the    Rock,    illustrated.  Grace  Ellery  Channing   463 

When  the   Gates   Were   Lifted   on   the   Truckee,   illustrated,   William    E. 

Smythe    1 01 

With  a  Camera,  Bird  Hunting,  illustrated,  Grace  Adele  Pierce 15 

Yellow  Peril,  The,  Rene  Van  Bergen   48 


Copyright  1905 

BY 

Out  West  Magazine  Company 


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JOHN   C.    FR]£mONT's   "  KOCKY    MOUNTAIN   FLAG  " 

(Unfurled  Auffust  15, 1842, on  the  crest  of  the  Rockies,  on  **The  Pathfinder's"  first 

expedition),  with  his  dauirhter,  Elizabeth  Benton  Fremont,  who  has 

presented  this  historic  flair  to  the  Southwest  Museum 


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TK*   I^anci    of   SunsHln* 


THE  NATION  BACK  OF  US,  THE  WORLD  IN  FRONT. 


VoL  XXIII,    No,  I.  JULY,  t905. 

THE  MERCY  OF  NAH-NE 

By  SHARLOT  M,  HALL 

NOX,  the  gambler — Felix  Knox — 

Trickster,  short-card  man,  if  you  will ; 

^'Rustler/'  brand-wrangler,  all  of  that — 
But  Knox,  the  man  and  the  hero  still ! 

For  life  at  best  is  a  hard-set  game, 
The  cards  come  stacked  from  the  Dealer's  hand 

And  a  man  swings  free  of  the  weights  just  once — 

When  he  faces  Death  in  the  last  grim  stand. 

Knox  had  been  drummer  in  Crook's  command ; 
A  devil  of  daring  lived  in  his  drum; 
With  his  heart  in  the  call  and  his  hand  on  the  sticks. 
The  dead  from  their  sand-filled  graves  might  come. 
Crippled  for  life  he  drummed  his  last, 

Shot  through  the  knees  in  the  Delche  fight ; 
lUit  he  crawled  to  a  rock  and  drummed,  ''Advance," 
Till  the  Tonto  renegades  broke  in  flight. 

That  was  the  man  who  shamed  Nah-ne. 

Two  miles  out  on  the  Clifton  road, 
Beyond  York's  ranch,  the  ambush  lay, 

Till  a  near,  swift-moving  dust-whirl  showed 
Where  the  buckboard  came.     Nah-ne  crouched  low 

And  gripped  his  rifle  and  grimly  smiled. 
As  he  counted  his  prey  with  hawk-like  eyes — 

The  men,  the  woman,  the  little  child. 


Copyrifht  1905,  by  Out  WMt  Magazin*  Co.    All  rlghU  reserved. 


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414 


OUT    WEST 


I'll' I 


1- 


HOTBL  LYNDON,  LOS  GAT08 


picnic  places  and  some  of  them  are  the  center  of  summer  colonii 
their  supplies  from  the  town.  In  the  future  there  will  be  summer 
cottages  at  many  of  th^se  springs  and  at  points  of  beauty  in  the 
and  cafions. 


f 


THB  NOVITIATS 

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4  OUT    WEST 

They  halted,  full  in  the  teeth  of  the  trap. 

Knox  saw,  too  late.    He  weighed  the  chance 
And  thrust  the  whip  in  the  driver's  hand 

And  wheeled  the  mules :     '*Back !  Back  to  the  ranch !' 
He  cried  as  he  jumped :    "Til  hold  them  off; 

Whip  for  your  life !"    The  bullets  sung 
Like  swarming  bees  through  the  shallow  pass, 

And  whirred  and  hummed  and  struck  and  stuncj;. 

But  he  turned  just  once — to  wave  his  hand 

To  wife  and  child ;  then  straight  ahead, 
With  yell  for  yell  and  shot  for  shot, 

Till  the  rocks  of  the  pass  were  spattered  red 
And  seven  bodies  be-painted  and  grim 

Sprawled  in  the  cactus  and  sand  below, 
And  seven  souls  of  the  Devil's  kin 

Went  with  him  the  road  that  dead  men  know. 

Ay !    That  was  Knox !     When  the  cowboys  came 

On  the  day-old  trail  of  the  renegade, 
Xah-ne  the  butcher,  the  merciless. 

This  was  the  tribute  the  chief  had  paid 
To  the  fearless  dead — No  scarring  fire. 

No  mangling  knife ;  but  across  the  face 
His  own  rich  blanket  drawn  smooth  and  straight. 

Stoned  and  weighted  to  hold  its  place. 

Dewey.  A  r' zona 


THE  LAST  VOLCANIC  ERUPTION   IN 
THE  UNITED  STATES 

By  HAROLD  IV.  FAIRBANKS,  Ph.  D. 

OT  the  least  interesting  of  the  many  interesting 
facts  about  California  is  that  here  occurred  the 
last  known  volcanic  eruption  in  the  United 
States.  Here  are  cinder  cones  as  perfect  as 
upon  the  day  they  were  finished,  and  lava  fields 
whose  rocky  surfaces  are  as  rugged  and  barren 
as  though  they  had  just  cooled  from  a  molten 
condition. 

Mount  Shasta  is  far  from  being  the  only  vol- 
canic peak  in  the  State;  for  the  whole  north- 
eastern portion  is  dotted  with  hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  of  them, 
ranging  in  size  down  to  mere  cinder  cones  of  no  more  than  loo  feet 
elevation.     The  older  ones  are  almost  obliterated ;  others  though 


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THE  LAST  VOLCANIC  ERUPTION  5 

still  rugged  are  deeply  furrowed  by  the  destructive  action  of  ice 
and  water. 

Northeastern  California  forms  a  part  of  the  vast  volcanic  region 
embracing  so  much  of  Oregon,  Washington  and  Idaho,  where, 
through  innumerable  centuries,  molten  lavas  have  at  irregular  in- 
tervals poured  through  the  weakened  crust  and  spread  over  the 
surface.  Thus  grew  up  the  Columbia  plateau  and  upon  its  surface, 
where  it  became  arched  in  the  Cascade  range,  that  long  line  of 
snow-capped  peaks  which  so  delight  the  traveler  as  he  journeys 
between  the  Sacramento  valley  and  Puget  Sound. 

The  eruptions  from  Shasta  and  Lassen,  the  two  loftiest  of  Cali- 
fornia's volcanoes,  ceased  long  ago,  and  there  is  nothing  in  the  ap- 


VOLCANIC  BOMBS  AT  THK  BASE  OF  CINDER  CONE 

pearance  of  these  mountain  peaks  now  to  suggest  the  sights  which 
would  have  met  our  eyes  had  we  been  here  at  their  building.  It 
must  be  left  for  the  imagination  to  picture  out  the  steaming,  fiery 
streams  of  lava  which  ran  over  their  craters  and  flowed  down  the 
slopes,  the  violent  explosions  which  hurled  great  bombs  into  the 
air,  and  the  dense  clouds  of  ashes  which  at  times  obscured  the  sun. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  great  volcanoes  of  the  Cas- 
cade range  are  apparently  extinct,  we  are  not  certain  that  this  is 
really  so;  for  eruptions  have  continued  to  occur  in  their  neighbor- 
hood up  to  within  the  last  hundred  years.  We  are  living  in  a  period 
of  quiet,  but  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  it  will  endure  indefi- 
nitely.   Our  turn  may  come  by  and  by. 

We  do  not  have  to  go  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the  West  Indies, 


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THE  LAST  VOLCANIC  ERUPTION  7 

or  Vesuvius  to  observe  the  interesting  features  associated  with  re- 
cent volcanic  action.  We  have  merely  to  take  a  camping  trip  into 
the  mountains  a  few  miles  east  of  Lassen  Peak,  a  region  where  the 
hand  of  man  has  not  yet  begun  to  mar  the  primitive  wilderness,  in 
order  to  see  the  youngest  of  all  the  volcanoes  in  the  United  States. 
Here,  in  a  shallow  mountain  valley,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
dark  pine  forests,  and  with  other  volcanoes  all  about,  but  so  old 
that  time  has  obliterated  their  original  characters,  stands  Cinder 
Cone.  Its  sides,  as  well  as  the  dark  lava  field,  are  desolate  and 
barren,  while  the  ash  fields  over  which  the  new  forest  is  beginning  to 
spread  contain  here  and  there  the  stubs  of  trees  killed  at  the  time  the 
cone  was  made. 


CTNPEK   CONR,  FROM    LAKB   RIDWRLL 


Now  all  is  so  quiet  that  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that,  at  a  time 
probably  no  longer  ago  than  when  the  gold-seekers  first  began  to 
cross  the  continent,  a  stream  of  molten  lava  flowed  out  from  the  base 
of  Cinder  Cone.  The  flow  was  quiet  and  probably  failed  to  attract 
even  the  attention  of  the  Indians,  but  it  spread  over  fully  ten  square 
miles,  filling  the  valley  and  making  a  dam  across  it.  Above  this 
dam  a  body  of  water  has  collected ;  and  to  this  has  been  given  the 
name  of  Snag  Lake,  because  in  its  clear  depths  can  still  be  seen 
the  stubs  of  the  trees  which  once  covered  the  surface. 

Now  let  us  learn  something  more  in  detail  of  this  wonderful  vol- 
canic region,  of  the  eruptions  which  built  up  Cinder  Cone  and  of 
the  hot  and  boiling  springs  a  little  distance  to  the  south. 

Lassen  Peak  is,  next  to  Mount  Shasta,  the  loftiest  of  the  ex- 


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8  OUT    WEST 

tinct  volcanoes  of  California,  for  it  reaches  a  height  of  about  two 
miles.  Its  snowy  top  can  be  distinctly  seen  from  the  Sacramento 
Valley,  rising  about  the  dark-blue,  forest-covered  mountains. 

It  has  been  many  thousand  years  since  Lassen  Peak  was  in  active 
eruption,  and  the  agents  of  destruction,  such  as  ice  and  rain,  have 
deeply  furrowed  its  slopes.  At  a  period  as  late  as  that  in  which  the 
first  Spaniards  sailed  along  the  Pacific  Coast,  the  Lassen  Peak 
region  was  still  quiet,  and  one  would  most  naturally  say  that  vol- 
canic action  in  this  region  had  ceased  for  all  time.  Forests  had 
spread  over  the  ancient  craters  and  everything  wore  a  quiet,  peaceful 
air.  To  the  discerning  student,  however,  the  presence  of  numerous 
boiling  springs  would  have  suggested  that  the  subterranean  fires 


THE  CRATBR  OP  CINDRR   CONE 


were  still  burning,  and  that  it  only  needed  favorable  conditions  to 
start  them  again  into  violent  action. 

It  is  a  little  more  than  200  years  ago,  as  nearly  as  we  can  judge, 
that,  in  a  quiet  little  valley  a  few  miles  east  of  Lassen  Peak  the 
Indians,  if  there  were  any  about,  must  have  been  disturbed  by  rum- 
bling noises  and  tremblings  of  the  earth.  The  volcanic  forces  below 
were  awaking  to  renewed  life.  Possibly  it  was  because  of  some 
movement  in  the  earth's  crust,  or,  more  probably,  the  access  of  large 
quantities  of  water  to  the  heated  region  below.  At  any  rate  enor- 
mous volumes  of  steam  and  other  gases  were  formed  and  with  ex- 
plosive forces  broke  through  the  crust  at  the  weakest  point. 

The  eruptions  were  violent.  The  steam,  thoroughly  mixed  with 
the  lava,  forced  the  molten  mass  up  with  it  and  blew  it  out  of  the 


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THE  LAST  I'OLCANIC  ERUPTION  9 

crater  in  fragments  of  different  sizes.  The  fine  sand-like  particles, 
or  ashes,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  were  spread  far  and  wide, 
and  fell  as  a  smothering  blanket  upon  the  forest.  The  trees  were 
killed  within  a  radius  of  a  mile  of  the  crater,  and  the  surface  was 
buried  under  a  layer  four  to  six  feet  in  thickness.  As  has  already 
been  said,  a  few  of  the  burned  stubs  still  stands,  others  lie  upon  the 
surface  of  the  ashes,  while  the  greater  number  have  entirely  disap- 
peared, leaving  little  pits  in  the  surface  where  they  once  stood. 

The  larger  fragments,  known  as  lapilli  and  bombs,  fell  about  the 
crater  and  built  up  the  cinder  cone.  The  bombs,  some  of  them  as 
much  as  four  feet  in  diameter,  lie  scattered  about  the  base  of  the 
cone.  Their  smooth  surfaces  show  that  they  were  in  a  semi-molten 
condition  when  hurled  out,  and  although  many  are  quite  irregular. 


YOUNG  FOREST  GROWrKG   IN  THE  ASHES  AT  THE  BASE  OF  CINDER  CONE 

Others  are  almost  as  round  as  cannon  balls. 

After  the  cone  had  been  built  and  the  eruption  of  ashes  had  nearly 
ceased,  a  stream  of  molten  lava  burst  from  its  base  and  spread  over 
a  portion  of  the  valley.  The  fact  that  the  surface  of  this  lava  has 
but  a  small  quantity  of  ashes  upon  it  enables  us  to  tell  its  relative 
period  of  eruption. 

Now  followed  a  long  period  of  quiet.  Young  pines  began  to 
take  root  upon  the  volcanic  ashes  and  gradually  spread  over  the 
barren  surface  about  Cinder  Cone,  although  it  is  difficult  to  under- 
stand how  they  could  get  sufficient  nourishment.  There  was  nothing 
to  indicate  that  there  would  be  any  more  eruptions.  The  vol- 
canic forces  seemed  again  extinct,  but  in  reality  they  were  only  gath- 
ering energy  for  another  outbreak. 

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10  OUT    WEST  .-, 

Time  passed  along  and  finally  there  occurred  the  most  recent 
eruption  of  all.  Less  than  loo  years  ago  a  stream  of  molten  lava 
issued  quietly  from  a  vent  upon  the  southern  side  of  Cinder  Cone 
and  continued  its  flow  until  it  had  spread  over  about  ten  square 
miles.  Its  surface  is  still  black  and  jagged,  without  a  sign  of 
vegetation.  The  lava  moved  slowly,  as  it  was  not  hot  enough  to 
be  very  thin,  and  shoved  along  and  for  a  time  broke  up  the  hard 
crust  forming  upon  its  surface,  so  that  its  borders  are  formed  by 
rugged  precipitous  walls  which  are,  in  places,  loo  feet  high.  What 
a  contrast  there  is  between  the  smooth  ash-carpet  of  the  forest  into 
which  one's  feet  sink  at  every  step,  and  the  rugged  wall  of  the  lava 
field. 

Toward  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  the  lava  spread  into  a  body 


THE  EDGE  OP  THE  LAVA  FLOW  FORMING   SNAG   LAKE 

of  water,  now  known  as  Lake  Bidwell ;  while  above  the  massive  dam 
of  lava  which  reached  across  the  valley,  there  gathered  the  waters  of 
Snag  Lake. 

To  climb  the  cone  is  a  difficult  undertaking ;  for  the  loose  lapilli 
slide  under  the  feet  and  progress  is  slow.  When  at  last,  however, 
the  top  is  gained,  an  interesting  sight  meets  the  eye.  Instead  of 
a  simple  crater-like  depression  within,  there  is  a  double  rim — indi- 
cating that  after  the  main  one  was  formed,  a  renewal  of  eruptions 
of  a  less  violent  nature  built  up  a  smaller  one  in  the  opening  of  the 
first.  The  crater  is  now  about  200  feet  deep  and  exhibits  steep 
and  symmetrical  slopes  of  loose  lapilli.  This  is  by  far  the  most  in- 
teresting as  well  as  symmetrical  crater  known  in  the  West. 


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THE  LAST  VOLCANIC  ERUPTION  11 


THE  DEVIL'S  KITCHEN 


A  half  day's  ride  over  a  picturesque  trail,  along  noisy  streams 
and  by  quiet  lakes,  brings  us  to  Hot  Spring  Valley,  around  which 
are  scattered  various  kinds  of  springs  of  volcanic  origin. 

At  the  camp-ground  are  warm  springs  used  for  bathing,  as  well 
as  a  pleasantly  flavored  soda-spring.     About  a  mile  up  the  valley 


LAKE  TARTARUS   (THB   BOILING  LAKB) 

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12  OUT    WEST 

there  is  a  remarkable  group  of  mud-  and  boiling-springs,  known 
by  the  very  suggestive  name  of  the  Devil's  Kitchen.  Upon  a  cool 
morning  the  hot  water  gives  off  a  perfect  cloud  of  steam,  which, 
rising  above  the  forest,  can  be  seen  for  a  long  distance. 

We  have  to  pick  our  way  carefully  among  the  bubbling  and  sput- 
tering springs;  for  the  water  has  softened  the  rocks  and  formed 
great  quantities  of  mud,  which  is  honeycombed  underneath.  In 
some  spots  there  are  pot-like  holes,  in  the  bottom  of  which  the  mud 
is  quietly  bubbling.  In  others  there  are  groups  of  small  mud-cones 
look  very  much  like  real  volcanoes.  The  force  of  the  gas  escaping 
from  some  of  the  springs  is  great  enough  to  thrown  continually 
into  the  air  little  chunks  of  mud. 


A   MOD   VOLCANO   AT   THB   DBVIL*S  KITCHEN 


A  mile  south  of  Hot  Spring  Valley,  and  hidden  away  in  the  pine 
and  fir  forests,  lies  a  body  of  muddy  boiling  water  known  as  Lake 
Tartarus.  The  lake  has  been  formed  by  the  union  of  water  from  a 
multitude  of  springs,  and  the  mud  which  it  contains  has  come  from 
the  decomposing  action  of  the  hot  water.  When  the  air  is  cold,  the 
lake  appears  like  a  huge  steaming  caldron. 

Another  mile  to  the  south  is  the  "geyser,"  a  large  boiling  spring. 
The  force  of  the  steam  sends  the  water  in  jets,  but  it  is  said  to 
be  less  violent  than  formerly.  A  few  miles  west  of  the  region  of  the 
springs  mentioned  are  other  boiling  springs,  but  they  are  reached 
only  by  trails. 

About  five  miles  south  of  the  camp-ground  in  Hot  Spring  Valley 
is    Willow   Lake   with    its   remarkable   floating   meadow.      Certain 


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THE  LAST  rOLCANIC  ERUPTION  13 


CINDBR  CONB,  WITH   DBAD  TKBBS  RISING  THROUGH  THB  LAYBR  OF  ASHES 

The  trees  were  killed  by  the  eruplioa  of  the  ashes 

water  plants,  with  which  the  streams  in  this  region  abound,  are 
forming  a  growth  over  the  surface  of  the  lake.  This  has  become 
thick  and  firm  enough  in  the  course  of  years  to  support  the  weight  of 
a  person,  and  by  using  a  little  care  one  can  walk  over  this  surface, 
although  it  shakes  under  the  feet.  One  can  either  fish  from  the  edge 
of  the  meadow,  or  cut  a  hole  through  it  and  drop  down  a  line  as 
in  fishing  through  the  ice.  Willow  Lake  is  far  from  being  the  least 
of  the  attractions  of  this  wonderful  region. 

We  are  awakening  today  to  the  importance  of  preserving  the  nat- 
ural wonders  of  the  country,  and  in  this  connection  we  must  not 
overlook  the  remarkable  features  of  the  Lassen  Peak  district.  There 
are  as  yet  very  few  settlers  here  and  the  attractions  have  gained  but 
little  more  than  a  local  reputation.  The  natural  wild  beauty  of  the 
mountains  and  forests  has  not  been  injured,  and  we  should  make  it 
out  business  to  see  that  the  region  is  set  aside  as  a  park  and  forever 
preserved. 

Berkeley,  Cal. 


THE  MOUNTAIN  SPRING 

By  TOM  VEITCH 

UBBLIXG  clear  from  rocky  bed. 
Luscious  grasses  rimming  'round — 
WhispVing  pine  trees  overhead, 
Here  the  mountain  spring  is  found. 
Emerald  on  the  mountain's  breast. 
Where  the  heated  climbers  rest, 
Fount  like  Pan  of  yore  might  own 
Gushing  'neath  yon  mossy  stone. 

Oakland,  Cal.  ^^  j 

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15 


BIRD  HUNTING  WITH  A  CAMERA 

By  GRACE  ADELE  PIERCE 


9^\ 


•HE  CAMERA  in  the 
hands  of  the  naturalist 
has  given  to  nature 
study  a  fresh  and  general  in- 
terest. The  beautiful  and  in- 
timate photograi)hs  of  out- 
door life  made  in  recent 
years  have  been  alike  val- 
uable to  the  student  and  in- 
teresting to  the  casual  ob- 
server. 

One  of  the  young  workers 
coming  to  the  front  in  this 
practical  new  school  is  Will- 
iam Lovell  Finley,  the  orni- 
thologist, who  is  doing  suc- 
cessful work  with  a  camera 

WILLIAM   LOVELL  FINLEY 

among  the  coast  birds  of 
California  and  Oregon.  He  was  graduated  in  1903  from  the 
University  of  California  and  since  that  time  has  been  engaged 
without  cessation  in  his  chosen  profession,  the  study  and  pictur- 
ing of  birds. 

In  his  investigations  he  has  been  accompanied  by  a  co-worker, 
Herman  T.  Bohlman,  and  the  two  have  taken  some  fine  and 
valuable  photographs  of  birds  and  their  nests.  In  getting  these 
pictures  the  two  artists  have  passed  through  some  perilous  and 
exciting  experiences. 

Out  in  the  open  for  weeks  at  a  time,  sleeping  in  fields  or  on 
ledges  above  the  sea,  hanging  strapped  from  trees  for  hours  at 
a  stretch,  eating  where  and  when  and  what  fate  may  decree — 
this  is  the  life  of  the  ornithologist  who  studies  his  birds  in  their 
natural  environment. 

Mr.  Finley  is  essentially  a  man  of  action  and  not  of  theory, 
and  his  studies  are  made  entirely  from  life. 

It  was  in  the  summer  of  1903,  as  the  young  naturalist  graph- 
ically tells  the  story,  that  he  and  his  companion,  Herman  J. 
Bohlman,  determined  to  make  an  excursion  up  the  Oregon  coast 
for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  sea-bird  territory  and  becoming 
more  intimately  acquainted  with  the  inhabitants,  murres,  puffins, 
and  cormorants. 

The  journey  was  not  without  danger  and  the  young  men 
realized  this;  but  the  spirit  of  adventure  was  strong,  and  the 


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16  OUT    WEST 

possibility  of  getting  the  most  perfect  set  of  sea-bird  pictures 
yet  taken  was  sufficient  incentive.  They  climbed  the  summit 
of  the  Coast  Mountains,  following  down  the  seemingly  endless 
trails  to  where  the  Pacific  stretches  in  broad  expanse.  There, 
rounding  the  point  at  Netart  s  Bay,  they  came  into  full  view  of 
their  desired  haven ;  three  great  rocks  three  miles  off  shore, 
looming  out  of  the  sea,  magnificent  against  the  sky-line  with 
the  waves  breaking  against  them. 

It  was  the  twentieth  of  June  when  they  arrived  at  this  spot, 
but  the  greatest  difficulties  of  the  journey  were  yet  before  them. 
The  natives  of  the  coast  expostulated  and  advised ;  the  sea  was 
most  dangerous  in  this  particular  locality  and  the  time  was  not 
favorable. 


MUKRBS  AND  CORMORANT 


The  two  naturalists  chose  a  light  dory,  a  fourteen-foot  double- 
cnder,  making  the  proposition  seem  more  than  ever  foolhardy. 
The  natives  thought  a  heavier  craft  would  stand  better  chance 
of  landing,  but  the  bird  hunters  were  seamen  enough  to  under- 
stand the  necessity  of  using  the  lighter  boat,  as  nothing  heavier 
could  be  hoisted  up  the  rocks  and  out  of  reach  of  the  continu- 
ously beating  waves. 

They  had  brought  a  small  supply  of  provisions,  two  ten-gal- 
lon casks  of  water,  and  block  and  tackle  for  hoisting  their  outfit 
up  the  cliflFs.  During  the  journey  along  the  strand  they  had 
gathered  and  sacked  a  supply  of  wood,  and  they  had  a  few  cook- 
ing utensils. 


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BIRD   HUNTERS  IN   THK   WOODS 


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18  OUT    WEST 

This  outfit  they  packed  on  board  their  hght  craft  and  set  out 
for  the  rocks,  three  miles  through  rolling  surf  to  the  open  sea. 
The  coast  people  turned  out  to  see  the  launching;  twice  the  frail 
boat  was  tossed,  tipped,  and  overturned  in  the  breakers,  and  the 
adventurers  were  obliged  to  paddle  shoreward,  shivering  with 
cold.  At  the  third  attempt,  however,  they  were  successful,  reach- 
ing the  rocks  after  a  long  and  exhausting  pull.  They  landed  on 
the  south  side  of  one  of  the  great  rocks,  finding  haven  in  a  little 
cove  with  surface  gently  rising  from  the  water's  edge  for  about 
fourteen  feet. 

After  three  days  of  difficulty  they  were,  as   Mr.   Finley  cx- 


A   HALF-GROWN    SEA   OULL 


pressed  it,  as  fresh  for  adventure  as  ever.  The  camping  spot 
which  they  had  chosen  was  thirty  feet  above  them  and  to  be 
reached  only  by  climbing.  Hand  over  hand,  clinging  to  crevices, 
and  digging  the  way  as  they  went,  they  reached  their  destination 
at  last. 

On  examination  the  ledge  was  found  to  be  only  eight  feet 
in  width  and  very  uneven  of  surface.  It  had  good  points,  being 
protected  from  storm  by  an  overhanging  rock;  so  the  explorers 
determined  to  make  the  best  of  their  restricted  quarters  and 
remain  where  the  frequent  down-pours  of  rain  could  not  dis- 
turb them. 


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PHOTOORAPHINO  A  CRIMSON-HEADBD  TANAGBR'S  NEST 


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20  OUT    WEST 

They  went  to  work  to  make  the  place  comfortable  and  for 
half  a  day  tried  with  a  hammer  and  small  drill  to  level  a  s])ace 
large  enough  for  a  bed.  What  the  first  morning  was,  after  a 
night  spent  in  **rest"  on  the  rough  edges  of  rock,  surrounded  by 
the  incessant  squawking  of  great  colonies  of  sea  birds  is  best 
told  by  Mr.  Finley : 

"One  who  has  not  visited  a  bird  metropolis  by  the  sea  and 
climbed  the  rocky  ledges  can  have  no  conception  of  the  thou- 
sands upon  thousands  of  feathered  inhabitants.     The  long  slope 


SCRBBCH  OWL 


up  to  the  peak  of  the  rock  was  literally  carpeted  with  cormorants 
and  their  nests,  while  myriads  of  snowy  gulls  and  murres 
crowded  every  crevice  of  the  rocks.  Pug-nosed  puffins  and 
white-winged  guillemots  buzzed  about  the  rocks  in  a  continual 
unrest.     It  was  the  sight  of  a  lifetime.'' 

For  five  days  the  young  men  camped  in  their  narrow  qua:rters 
on  the  rocky  ledge ;  worked,  ate,  and  slept  there.  No  one  unac- 
quainted with  the  real  work  of  a  naturalist  can  realize  how  in- 
teresting and  often  difficult  such  a  life  is.  "It  is  slow  work  at 
first,"  says  Mr.  Finley,  "this  photographing  of  sea  birds  in  their 

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A   BA«N  OWL,  TAKEN   AT  SANTA  CLAKA 


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22  OUT    WEST 

natural  haunts ;  but  it  is  satisfactory  and  gives  some  of  the  most 
strikingly  artistic  results  in  the  profession/' 

The  real  value  of  photography  in  this  work  is  that  it  is  a  rec- 
ord of  the  truth  and  cannot  misrepresent.  One  who  gives  to  the 
world  something  new  in  ornithology  must  have  studied  his  sub- 
ject long  and  thoroughly,  and  is  not  likely  to  give  pictures  un- 
truthful to  his  text.  The  photographs  made  in  this  interesting 
excursion  are  among  the  finest  yet  made  of  sea-birds. 

But  this  is  only  one  of  the  many  adventures  recorded  in  Mr. 
Finley's  note-book.  His  hunt  for  the  blue  heron  has  in  it  the 
same  element  of  interest.     He  says :     "Of  all  sights  and  sensa- 


SHKIKB  ON   PEAK    LIMB 


tions  that  come  in  a  bird-lover\s  experience  the  most  lasting  is 
when  he  steps  from  the  quieter  scenes  and  suddenly  emerges  into 
the  heart  of  a  busy  bird-town  ensconced  in  some  forest." 

Several  miles  below  Portland,  in  the  midst  of  a  fir  forest,  there 
is  such  a  settlement  as  he  describes.  In  this  village  are  two 
hundred  bird-homes  and  not  a  single  residence  is  less  than  one 
hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  earth,  many  being  a  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  in  the  air.  What  effort  it  requires  to  photograph 
these  birds  on  their  own  branch  and  fir  tree  must  be  left  to  the 
imagination. 

"One  hundred  and  forty  or  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  may  not 

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BIRD  HUNTING  WITH  CAMERA  23 

seem  such  a  dizzy  height  when  you  look  up  from  the  ground," 
says  Mr.  Finley;  "but  strap  yourself  to  the  limb  of  a  tree  and 
dangle  out  backward  or  look  down.  No  matter  how  strong  the 
rope  there  is  a  feeling  of  death  creeping  up  and  down  every 
nerve  in  your  body  the  first  time  you  try  it.*' 

The  accompanying  illustrations  show  Mr.  Finley  and  Mr. 
Bohlman  in  the  woods  with  their  camera.  In  the  climbing  scene 
they  are  after  the  nest  of  a  red-tailed  hawk.  In  this  particular 
case  the  nesting  tree  measured  more  than  fourteen  feet  at  the 
base  and  there  w^as  not  a  limb  for  forty  feet.  The  nest  of  the 
hawk  was  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  directly  up  and  climbing 


SWAMP  HUNTING   WITH   CAMERA 


for  it  was  out  of  the  question ;  climbers,  ropes,  or  anything  in  the 
way  of  nest-seeker  s  paraphernalia  would  not  avail. 

In  contriving  some  way  of  access  to  the  nest  the  naturalists 
noted  that  a  young  cottonwood  was  growing  some  twelve  feet 
away.  This  might  serve  as  a  ladder,  so  they  cut  it  away  until  it 
toppled  over  against  the  nest-tree,  lodging  in  a  crotch  of  the 
first  big  limb.  This  formed  a  kind  of  draw-bridge  up  which  they 
made  passage  one-third  of  the  way  to  the  nest.  From  this 
vantage  point  they  lassoed  the  upper  branches,  dug  their  climbing 
irons  into  the  bark,  and  at  last  reached  the  object  of  their  search. 
Then  came  the  question  of  photographing  the   hawk  and   his 


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24  OUT    WEST 

home.  At  first  it  looked  to  be  an  impossibility;  but  the  favoring 
fortune  which  seems  to  attend  the  man  who  dares  attended  this 
effort  and  the  photographers  came  away  with  a  fine  set  of 
pictures. 

Every  venture  of  the  bird  hunter,  however,  need  not  be  diffi- 
cult. A  great  deal  of  pleasure  is  to  be  gained  by  a  study  of 
the  home  birds — the  little  creatures  about  the  dooryard  or  in  the 
domestic  haunts.  "There  is  not  a  tumble-down  barn  in  the  coun- 
try that  does  not  shelter  some  good  material/'  says  Mr.  Finley. 
"Great  skill  is  necessary  in  photographing  any  bird  in  its  natural 
environment,  and  no  bird  study  is  without  its  especial  delight." 


YOUNG    RU8SBT-BACKBD  THRUSH 


The  owl  in  the  illustrations  was  for  many  years,  and  possibly 
still  is.  the  inmate  of  a  Santa  Clara  barn ;  while  the  bank  swal- 
lows were  intimate  acquaintances  of  the  naturalist's  youth, 
living  out  their  little  lives  in  the  hollow  of  their  homestead  tree 
and  sending  out  innumerable  progeny  into  the  world  of  sunshine 
and  roses. 

There  is  a  story  in  every  life  if  we  could  but  reach  it,  and  bird- 
life  is  not  different  from  human  life  in  its  tragedy  and  comedy, 
its  love  and  war  and  domestic  felicity.  Mr.  Finley  seems  to 
have  gotten  at  the  heart  of  things  in  his  delineation  of  bird-his- 
tory and  the  library  of  the  nature  lover  will  be  enhanced  by  the 
truthful  work  of  his  pen. 

Santa  Monica,  Cal. 


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AT  THE  FOOT  OF  THK  HAWK  TRBE 

Small  tree  felled  so  as  to  make  a  bridge  to  limb  of  larger  tree,  and  thus 
reach  a  hawk^s  nftst  130  feet  from  the  ^ronnd 


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•^ 

i- 


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27 

fountains  and  ponds  for  the 
home:  garden 

E  actual  possession  of  a  fountain  seems  so  expen- 
sive as  to  be  quite  out  of  the  question  to  many,  who 
might  gladly  embrace  the  notion,  if  brought  to 
realize  simple  and  uncostly  methods  of  fountain 
construction.  Every  garden,  provided  it  is  not  com- 
pletely planted  to  the  four  walls  of  a  city  house,  can 
sparkle  with  a  little  green-bordered  pond  or  fount- 
ain.    Though    the   garden-owner's    purse   may    be    suffering    from 
indigestion  consequent  upon  over-expenditures,  he  can  equip  himself 
with  mortar,  sand,  shovel,  hoe  and  a  cheery  whistle,  the  latter  always 
a  valuable  aid  to  industry,  and  make  his  own  pond  quite  as  merrily 
as  he  used  to  dig  Mammoth  Caves,  magic  caverns  and  pirates'  dun- 
geons when  a  boy.     Any  little  corner,  any  little  nook  of  ground  will 
be  glad  to  accommodate  such  an  achievement,  and  the  expenditure 
will  simply  represent  the  cost  of  materials. 

Of  course  there  are  fountains  and  fountains,  and  ponds  and  ponds. 
They  cost  all  the  way  from  practically  nothing  to  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  dollars.  A  small,  unpretentious  pond,  if  bordered  with 
greenery,  can  afford  almost  as  much  eye-recreation  as  an  elaborate 
and  formal  marble-statued  creation,  whose  cost  may  have  exceeded 
$100,000.  There  are  some  minds,  however,  that  are  tuned  only  to 
the  pitch  of  elegance,  and  would  feel  discords  if  compelled  to  asso- 


AN  ATTRACTTVB   POND 


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28  OUT    WEST 

ciate  with  simplicity.  If  given  their  way,  such  people  would  go  into 
competition  with  the  Creator  and  remodel  nature,  polish  mountains, 
wall  rivers  with  marble,  design  new  coats  for  birds  and  wild  ani- 
mals, and  otherwise  exhibit  their  superiority  of  taste. 

Art  and  money  are  not  synonymous.  In  fact  art  frequently  be- 
haves better  if  guided  by  ingenuity  and  originality  and  Nature's 
teachings,  than  if  governed  completely  by  dollars.  Because  of 
this  a  man  with  a  little  money,  a  little  time  and  some  cleverness 
and  artistic  inclination  can  usually  achieve  happy  results  in  his 
undertakings. 

To  speak  briefly  of  elaborate  and  thoroughly  magnificent  foun- 
tains, perhaps  no  better  example  of  this  type  exists  in  America 
than  that  in  Georgian  Court,  the  home  of  George  J.  Gould  in 


ONE  OP  NATURB^S  **  PONDS** 

Lakewood  county.  New  Jersey.  It  is  circular,  is  outlined  by  a 
white  marble  curbing  and  is  sixty  feet  in  diameter.  In  the  cen- 
ter is  a  huge  bronze  nautilus  shell  in  imitation  of  a  chariot,  in 
which  stands  the  bronze  figure  of  a  man.  In  his  hands  he  holds 
bronze  reins  that  seem  to  be  dripping  with  kelp,  over  grandly 
chiseled  white  marble  sea  horses.  In  front  of  the  nautilus  has 
been  modeled  a  bronze  octupus  which  contains  an  adaptation  of 
electric  lights  that  is  decidedly  eflfective  and  beautiful  at  night. 
About  this  chariot  and  its  occupant  are  frolicking  sea  nymphs 
in  white  marble.  Fountains  of  this  sort,  representing  as  they  do 
the  rare  genius  of  celebrated  sculptors,  are  enormously  expen- 
sive. 


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A    KOCK   FOUNTAIN   WITH  OKOTTO 


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FOUNTAINS  AND  PONDS  31 

Another  type  of  fountain  most  elastic  in  possibilities,  is  that 
fitted  for  electric  display.  Some  of  these  embrace  in  their  con- 
struction wonderful  combinations  of  electrical  ingenuity  that 
make  kaleidoscopic  colors  vibrate  and  dance  and  glitter  in  the 
spray  and  among  the  sheafs  of  water.  For  an  elaborate  electric 
fountain  a  hydraulic  motor,  a  wheel,  an  arc  light  placed  in  a 
parabolic  reflector,  and  an  extensive  system  of  cocks  and  valves 
are  necessary.  A  large  wheel  is  placed  in  a  room  beneath  the 
fountain  and  is  so  arranged  that  colored  slides,  for  tinting  the 
spray,  can  be  adjusted.  Some  of  these  large  fountains  are  de- 
signed so  that  living  pictures  can  be  presented  in  the  midst  of 
tumbling  waters.    An  affair  of  this  kind  is  better  suited  for  ex- 


KUSTIC  BRIDGR  AND  UNCBMENTKD   POND 


positions  and  public  parks  than  private  gardens ;  for  the  expense 
of  conducting  one  is  startling,  as  the  labor  of  manipulating  the 
complicated  switch-boards  demands  the  constant  attendance  of 
one,  and  sometimes  several  skilled  electricians.  An  unassuming 
and  inexpensive  electrical  fountain,  yet  one  very  attractive,  can 
be  constructed  by  placing  electric  bulbs  in  glass  casings  that  ex- 
tend upward  in  the  center  of  the  fountain.  Different  colored 
bulbs  can  be  used  to  intensify  the  effect.  Though  the  light  will 
be  far  less  brilliant  than  that  of  a  more  expensive  creation,  it 
will  nevertheless  be  a  most  pleasing  innovation  for  the  home 
garden,  and  an  unceasing  pleasure-dispenser  when  the  family 
wish  to  sit  out  of  doors  on  warm  summer  evenings. 

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32  OUT    WEST 

The  shape  and  size  of  a  fountain  should  be  regulated  some- 
what by  environment,  though  not  absolutely,  for  contrasts  are 
not  always  incongruous,  but  are  frequently  necessary  to  break 
monotony.  A  stately,  imposing,  and  thoroughly  dignified  colon- 
ial mansion  surrounded  by  far-reaching  gardens,  prim  and  for- 
mal, where  trees  and  shrubs  and  hedges  are  trimmed  painstak- 
ingly and  methodically,  where  flowers  are  planted  by  a  vigorous 
system,  seems  to  demand  a  rigid  fountain  and  miniature  lake 
with  abundance  of  marble  or  bronze  statuary.  On  the  other  hand, 
such  a  fountain  would  fight  with  an  unpainted,  rambling  bunga- 
low, would  stare  it  out  of  countenance  with  its  ponderous  ele- 
gance, just  as  a  little  heap  of  cobblestones  and  a  feeble,  spurting 


A   **C0RNEK"   in  papyrus 

jet  would  shock  the  colonial  mansion.  Such  contrasts  are  of 
course  conflicts,  but  lesser  ones,  as,  for  instance,  a  circular,  mar- 
ble-rimmed pond  without  statuary,  partially  surrounded  bv  wat.r 
plants,  would  look  appropriate  for  the  bungalow  gardens.  The  ir- 
regularity of  the  bungalow  would  off"sct  the  regularity  of  the 
pond.  The  colonial  mansion  might  peacefully  countenance  a 
large  pool  of  water  fashioned  after  nature,  with  jumbled,  riotous 
outlines  marked  intermittently  by  grass  borders,  water-plants  and 
careless  heaps  of  rocks  and  boulders.  Such  a  pool  should  be  large 
enough  to  correspond  with  its  aristocratic  surroundings.  The  ir- 
regularity of  a  large  pond  will  soften  and  take  the  edges  oflF  the 
stilled  sharpness  of  trim  garden  paths  and  symmetry  of  architec- 


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A  LITTLB  LAKE,  UNCBMBNTBD 


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34  OUT    WEST 

ture.  In  making  one  of  these  nature-ponds,  it  is  impera- 
tive not  to  outline  it  entirely  with  stones,  else  it  will  look  like 
a  child's  mud-puddle.  A  few  feet  of  grass  that  laps  the  water's 
edge,  a  pile  of  rocks,  a  patch  of  graceful  papyrus  or  bamboo 
placed  at  varied  intervals  along  the  entire  edge  of  the  pond  will 
prove  very  friendly  with  art. 

The  formal  fountain  or  pond,  in  order  to  be  successful,  must  be 
built  by  a  master  hand.  The  difference  between  formality 
and  informality  is  similar  to  that  between  the  Greek  and  the  Jap- 
anese, in  that  Greek  lines  are  methodical  and  uniform,  each  par- 
ticular part  having  relation  to  some  other,  while  Japanese  lines 
are  impulsive,  uncontrollable  and  tumultuous  in  their  antics. 


PAPYRUS   AND   WATER   LILY 


Anyone  can  construct  the  informal  pond,  and  the  simpler, 
more  irregular  it  is,  the  more  it  chums  with  Nature.  First  the 
builder  must  determine  the  size,  and  mark  the  border  lines. 
Next  must  be  made  the  excavation,  which  should  be  from  three 
and  one-half  to  four  feet  deep.  A  flat  bottom  with  perpendicular 
rim  is  preferable  for  the  better  accommodation  of  growing  plants. 
Such  a  basin  is  more  difficult  to  make  than  one  whose  depth 
graduates  in  a  slope  from  the  center.  The  home  fountain 
builder  can  easily  build  the  latter,  but  an  experienced  mason 
could  best  manage  the  former.  The  cost  of  having  the  work 
done  averages  about  ten  cents  a  square  foot.  The  proportions 
to  be  used  are  one-third  cement  and  two-thirds  sand.     A  cement 


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FOUNTAINS  AND  PONDS  35 

basin,  though  somewhat  more  expensive,  is  preferable  to  one 
of  earth,  especially  in  localities  where  water  is  scarce  and  there  is 
no  severe  freezing  in  winter,  for  it  admits  of  no  seepage.  It 
possesses  another  advantage  in  being  readily  cleaned  and  conse- 
quently more  sanitary.  Masonry  prevents  an  atmosphere  of 
dampness  that  might  prove  injurious  from  an  uncemented  pond 
if  located  close  to  a  dwelling.  Where  grounds  are  extensive 
and  water  plentiful,  uncemented  ponds  do  quite  as  well  as  those 
of  cement.  '^| 

If  the  uncemented  pond  is  to  be  built  on  sandy,  porous  ground, 
the  bottom  of  the  excavation  should  be  covered  with  clay  or 
adobe  soil,  both  of  which  are  hard  and  close-woven,  and  thor- 


BAMBOO  AND  PAMPAS  GRASS  ON  THB  BDGB  OP  A  POND 

oughly  tamped  to  make  a  good  foundation.  Such  a  basin  will 
hold  water  very  well.  For  the  comfort  and  sustenance  of  water 
plants,  put  over  this  a  thick  layer  of  leaf-mold  or  rich  earth  and 
on  this,  to  keep  the  loose  earth  from  floating,  place  a  thin  layer 
of  sand.  When  this  is  done  the  pond  will  be  ready  for  filling 
and  planting. 

Styles  and  shapes  of  cement  ponds  may  be  elaborate  and 
varied.  A  hillside  location  inspires  a  terrace  of  ponds,  the  upper 
overflowing  into  those  below.  A  gentle  slope  suggests  a  chain 
of  miniature  lakes  connected  by  a  stream  that  trickles  merrily 
over  a  cement  or  cobblestone  pathway.  Then  there  is  the 
pyramid  of  several  basins,  the  upper  one  supplied  with  a  fountain 


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36  OUT    WEST 

apparatus,  and  perhaps  supporting  some  creation  of  the  sculp- 
tor's skill.  But  these  fountains  are  only  congenial  to  large  gar- 
dens and  large  pocketbooks.  Best  of  all,  most  friendly  and  rest- 
ful, is  the  flat,  irregular  pond,  fashioned  after  the  little  lakes  we 
have  found  and  love  as  they  nestled  in  forests  and  mountain 
fastnesses. 

There  are  two  methods  employed  in  planting  these  cement 
ponds.  The  first,  and  most  cleanly,  is  that  of  making  wooden 
boxes,  filling  them  with  earth,  planting  bulbs  or  roots  in  them 
and  lowering  them  to  the  bottom.  More  attractive,  however, 
than  wooden  boxes  are  those  built  carelessly  of  cobblestones  and 
cement.     If  the  water  is  transparent,  the  wooden  boxes,  unless 


RUSTIC  SUMMBK  HOUSB  AND  LAKK 


they  are  quite  overgrown  with  greenery,  are  readily  seen,  and 
are  far  from  attractive;  but  the  stone  boxes,  the  jagged  edges 
of  which  may  project  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  are  artistic 
and  never  conflict  with  good  manners.  Tbc  other  method  of 
planting,  which  is  considerably  used,  is  that  of  putting  a  thick 
layer  of  rich  earth  on  the  cement,  then  a  thin  layer  of  sand  as  in 
the  natural  ground  ponds.  This  saves  the  construction  of  boxes, 
and  in  appearance  is,  of  course,  more  like  Nature. 

In  rigorous  climates  wooden  boxes  are  popular;  for^  upon  the 
arrival  of  frost  and  cold,  they,  with  their  loads  of  plants,  can  be 
lifted  out  and  carried  indoors,  where  they  can  sleep  and  rest 
and  keep  warm  until   Spring,  when  they  can  be   returned   to 


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FOUNTAINS  AND  PONDS  37 

the  pond  for  a  new  awakening  and  a  thrifty  growth.  In  some 
instances,  hot-water  pipes  are  run  through  the  ponds  to  keep 
the  plants  from  freezing  and  make  it  possible  for  them  to  stay 
out  an  entire  winter;  but  this  plan  necessitates  a  considerable 
advance  in  the  coal  bill. 

If  a  pond  is  large  enough  to  permit  of  such  elaboration,  a  rustic 
bridge  will  be  a  decidedly  happy  innovation,  as  will  be  a  rustic 
seat  in  some  cozy  corner,  where  sunshine  and  pure  air  can  tickle 
tired  nerves  into  gladness  and  vigor.  Still  further  rusticity  can 
be  obtained — and  most  pleasing  rusticity,  too — by  piling  a  heap 
of  wild  tree-roots  in  the  center  of  the  pond,  letting  the  twisted, 
tangled  ends  protrude  at  will.     The  spaces  in  the  center  of  the 


A  LOTOS  POND 


mass  can  be  filled  with  earth  and  planted  to  ferns  and  other 
moisture-devotees. 

Fish  are  ever  essential  in  ponds  and  fountain  basins,  as  they 
consume  impurities  which  would  otherwise  soon  destroy  the 
charm.  They  are  never  troublesome,  for  they  require  neither 
care  nor  feeding.  Gold  and  silver  fish  retail  at  $5  for  one  hun- 
dred, and,  besides  being  beneficial  in  clearing  the  water,  are 
happy  bits  of  gold,  as,  like  sunbeams  uncaged,  they  dart  through 
the  water's  transparency. 

Where  it  is  possible  to  have  a  running  stream  pass  through 
the  pond,  constantly  renewing  and  purifying  the  supply  of  water, 
mountain   trout   of  various   species    will   thrive   and   propagate 

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38  OUT    WEST 

to  such  an  extent  that  the  family  may  go  fishing  before  break- 
fast and  have  many  a  delicious  meal  from  the  product  of  their 
trout  "hatchery." 

To  facilitate  cleaning,  ponds  should  be  connected  with  sewers 
or  cesspools,  otherwise  the  water  will  have  to  be  siphoned  out 
with  a  hose.  A  thorough  cleaning  should  take  place  at  least 
every  three  months. 

Fountains  are  usually  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the  center  of 
ponds,  and  merrily  they  present  their  heads  of  touseled  spray 
above  rockeries,  or  peek  gayly  from  grottos.  When  festooned 
with  sunbeams  and  gay  with  iridescence  they  are  most  agreeable 
to  live  with.    A  pond  without  a  fountain,  one  thai  can  be  filled 


ROCK   ARCH  OVER  FOUNTAIN 


and  emptied  with  a  hose  is  less  expensive  than  one  with  pipes. 
There  are  various  ways  of  arranging  pipes  and  perforated  iron 
plates  for  producing  splendid  eflfects  in  spray.  The  voice  of  a 
fountain  is  quite  as  much  of  an  attraction  as  its  appearance;  for 
of  the  musical  trickling  and  splashing  of  water,  one  never  tires. 
Among  some  of  the  most  popular  water  lilies  for  planting  in 
ponds  are  the  following:  Lynthea  Voderata,  Yellow  Eastern 
Lynthea,  Frank  Huster,  scarlet,  Madagascar,  blue,  and  Vic- 
toria Regia — white,  and  largest  of  all  lilies.  The  leaves  are  four 
feet  across  and  so  strong  that  they  easily  support  the  weight  of 
a  child.  These  bulbs  are  said  to  retail  at  $25  each.  The  plants 
most   grareful   and    pleasing   to   grow   about   the   borders    are: 


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PAPYRUS,  UMBRRLLA  PLANT  AND  RUSTIC  BKIDOB 


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40  OUT    WEST 


ISLAND  OP  ROCK  IN   POND 


Caladiums,  papyrus,  cypress  or  umbrella  plant,  reeds,  bamboo, 
green  and  white  striped  armuda,  striped  Japonica,  vinca  with 
variegated  foliage,  pampas  grass.  The  lotus  and  water  hyacinths 
are  also  much  used,  as  well  as  many  other  plants.  The  scope  for 
creating  new  ideas  in  fountains  is  a  wide  one,  and  certainly  the 
home  garden  could  possess  no  more  comforting  ornament  than 
one  of  these  little  nature-pools. 

Pasadena 


AN  ADOBE  RUIN 

By  NEETA  MARQUIS 

VTV  EAD  labor  of  the  brown  untutored  hands 

j[{@f      That  reared  thy  walk  of  day  against  a  nignt, 

Unlike  the  toilers  swart  who  spent  their  night 
To  mass  the  quarried  pile  on  Egypt's  sands, 

Linking  their  labor  to  eternity 
With  bonds  unbroke  by  tempest-blasts  amain. 
Whilst  thou,  rude  shelter  from  the  wind  and  rain. 
Unknown  to  art,  dost  perish  wretchedly. 

How  like  unto  that  other  house  of  earth 
Wherein  thy  builder's  spirit  dwelt  and  yearned 
For  beauty  unattained ;  like  thee,  returned 
So  soon  unto  the  dust  that  gave  it  birth. 

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41 
AGAINST  REGULATIONS 

By  JUDITH  GRAVES  WALDO 

HEN  Andy  Miller  came  out  from  the  station- 
house  at  Foster  and  climbed  to  his  seat  on  the 
Julian  stage,  he  found  beside  him  a  passenger 
not  down  on  the  stage  book.  The  station- 
keeper  whispered  up  to  Andy : 

"It's   all   right.     She   paid   me.     She   didn't 
come  in  on  the  train.    I  seen  her  come  over  the 
trail  this  morning.    Come  from  some  ranch,  I  guess.    Watson's 
her  name.     She's  paid  through  to  Julian." 

It  was  a  blustering  day  and  the  mountains  to  the  south  were 
hid  in  clouds.  There  was  a  storm  coming.  Andy  gathered  up 
his  lines,  hesitated  a  moment,  and  then  wrapped  them  about  the 
brake  again. 

"You'd  better  go  inside,  miss.  One  of  the  men  will  give  up  his 
place.    It's  goin'  to  be  a  bad  ride  an'  I  think  there'll  be  rain." 

The  girl  beside  him  turned  her  face  to  Andy.  She  was  closely 
veiled. 

"I  heard  'em  talking.  Don't  any  of  'em  want  to  get  wet.  Be- 
sides"— 

"Better  for  them  than  you,  miss."    Andy  was  getting  down. 

"I  won't  go  inside!"  said  the  girl  quickly.  "I  want  to  sit  up 
here.    I'm  not  afraid  of  the  rain.    I  won't  go  inside." 

Andy  gathered  up  his  lines  again. 

"Just  as  you  say,  miss!"  He  nodded  to  the  station-keeper, 
called  to  the  lead-horses  and  the  stage  was  off  up  the  road. 

"Wonder  who  she  is?"  thought  Andy.  "Knows  her  own  mind, 
anyhow.  Bet  she'd  be  pretty  if  she'd  take  that  veil  off.  Wonder 
why  she  hangs  her  feet  down.  She  can  reach  that  board,  sure. 
Wish  she'd  look  around  again.  Watson?  Don't  know  no  Wat- 
sons Julian  way."    Andy  whistled  softly  to  himself. 

Inside  the  stage  was  Mr.  Harvy,  one  of  Julian's  largest  mine 
owners,  and  three  men  from  the  east  who  were  going  with  him  to 
look  at  mining  property.  Andy  had  hoped  to  have  one  of  these 
men  on  the  seat  with  him.  He  knew  there  would  be  many  ques- 
tions asked  about  the  country  through  which  they  would  pass 
that  he  would  like  to  answer  in  his  own  way,  and  it  would  make 
good  telling  at  the  station-house  table  later.  Andy  wondered  if 
the  girl  had  ever  been  over  this  road  before.  He  wished  he 
dared  start  some  conversation  with  her,  but  her  manner  repelled 
him.  She  still  sat  with  her  feet  hanging  down  and  her  long 
black  skirt  was  drawn  well  over  them.  Andy  dragged  the  mail 
bags  from  under  his  own  feet  and  stacked  them  up  in  front  of  the 
g:irl.  ^ 

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42  OUT    WEST 

**Here,  put  your  feet  on  these ;  you'll  be  more  comfortable.  He 
hoped  some  return  from  this  friendly  advance,  but  the  girl  sim- 
piy  accepted  his  offer  and  tucked  her  skirts  down  over  her  feet. 
Andy  watched  her. 

"Cold?"  he  asked.  He  pulled  out  a  blanket  on  which  he  had 
been  sitting.  "I  forgot  this.  Put  it  over  you.  IVe  a  rubber  if 
it  rains."    The  girl  tucked  the  blanket  about  her  without  a  word. 

"Not  much  on  manners,"  commented  Andy,  and  fell  to 
whistling. 

Andy  was  glad  when  they  reached  Ramona,  where  dinner  was 
to  be  had  and  fresh  horses.  He  would  get  one  of  the  men  be- 
side him  after  dinner.  Andy  thought  it  was  worse  to  have 
someone  beside  him  who  would  not  talk  or  let  him  talk,  than  to 
be  alone.  He  surely  would  see  that  one  of  the  "East'ners"  was 
beside  him  for  the  afternoon.  What  was  Andy's  dismay,  when 
he  sprang  from  the  stage  in  front  of  the  "Ramona  Hotel"  and 
turned  to  help  Miss  Watson  down,  to  be  greeted  with : 

"Fm  not  going  to  get  down.  I  have  my  dinner  right  here  in  a 
box.    ril  stay  here." 

Andy  remonstrated.  The  four  gentlemen  from  the  inside  the 
stage  remonstrated. 

"Fll  stay  here,"  was  all  Miss  Watson  would  say,  and  she  took 
same  bread  and  meat  from  a  box  at  her  side  and  began  her 
dinner. 

"A  very  strange  young  woman,  I  must  say,"  said  the  eastern 
men  in  chorus. 

"Self-willed  and  stubborn,"  said  Mr.  Harvy ;  and  they  all  filed 
into  the  dining-room. 

When  Andy  was  once  more  in  his  place  on  the  high  seat  of 
the  stage,  he  felt,  vaguely,  that  some  change  had  come  over  the 
girl  beside  him.  As  the  horses  toiled  up  the  summit  of  "Goose" 
valley  she  turned  slowly  to  Andy: 

"Don't  you  want  to  smoke?" 

"Oh,  may  I?"  Andy  was  feeling  for  his  pipe. 

She  put  out  her  hand.     "Fll  hold  'em  while  you  fill  it." 

"You  know  how  to  drive  ?" 

"Yes,  a  little." 

Andy  saw  that  her  hands  were  large  and  the  gloves  she  wore 
were  heavy.    He  saw,  too,  that  she  held  the  lines  well. 

"Like  to  see  a  girl  that  can  drive  four  horses,"  said  Andy.  She 
turned  her  face  to  him  and  he  saw  that  she  smiled. 

"Wish  she'd  take  that  veil  off,"  Andy  thought.  "Fd  like  to  get 
a  good  look  at  her.  Bet  she's  pretty.  Like  her  voice."  Andy 
took  the  lines  again. 

"Been  over  this  road  before?" 


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AGAINST  REGULATIONS  43 

**No — yes,  a  long  time  ago.    Is  this  your  regular  route?" 

"Yes,  been  on  this  road  since  the  boom !"    Andy  grinned. 

"Do  you  go  off  the  road  at  all,  or" — 

"No.  Straight  through  to  Julian.  Company  don't  allow  no 
accommodation  business." 

The  clouds  were  sinking  lower.  They  settled  like  a  cover  over 
the  little  cup  in  the  hills  into  which  the  stage  was  moving.  A  few 
drops  of  rain  fell. 

"You  really  ought  to  get  inside,  miss !" 

"No,  no,  I  don*t  mind !  You  said  you  had  a  rubber.  Til  be  all 
right." 

Andy  protested.    "They'll  make  room  for  you  inside." 

"Oh,  I  can't  go  in  there.  You'll  have  to  get  wet  anyhow.  It 
won't  hurt  me  any  more  than  it  will  you.    Let  me  stay  here  I" 

Andy  got  out  the  rubber  blanket  and  covered  her  with  it,  care- 
fully. He  was  mightily  pleased  now  that  she  wished  to  stay  on 
the  driver's  seat.  He  put  on  his  own  rubber  coat  and  settled 
himself  ready  for  the  storm. 

"I  like  to  see  a  girl  that  ain't  afraid  of  a  little  rain,"  said  Andy. 

The  girl  asked  Andy  questions  about  the  country  and  about 
the  people ;  and  Andy  talked.  He  was  very  happy  now.  They 
were  going  up  the  Julian  grade  and  the  horses  went  slowly.  It 
was  raining  only  a  little.  It  was  not  very  light  now  and  the  girl 
had  taken  oflf  her  veil.  Yes,  she  was  pretty.  Andy  thought  she 
was  very  pretty.    She  looked  over  at  Andy. 

"Do  you  ever  have  hold-ups  on  this  road  ?" 

"See  that  big  rock?  Well,  the  last  hold-up  on  this  road  was 
right  there.    Just  a  boy  did  the  business,  too." 

"Tell  me  about  it."  The  girl  moved  a  little  nearer  Andy  and 
instinctively  looked  around.    Andy  laughed. 

"Oh,  you  needn't  be  afraid.  That  was  six  years  ago.  This 
road's  too  well  traveled  now  for  anything  of  that  sort  to  happen." 

"Go  on,"  said  the  giri.    "Tell  me." 

"Well,  the  stage  was  right  at  this  bend.  There  was  just  Al 
Williams,  the  driver,  and  Phil  Derdy  on  that  day.  The  stage 
swings  around  that  bend  when  this  Runt  Walton  comes  from  be- 
hind the  rock." 

"Runt  Walton?" 

"Yes,  awful  small.  I  never  see  him,  but  Al  told  me.  Well, 
Runt  says,  'Hands  up,  boys.'  But  Al  was  a  dare-devil  and  he 
whipped  up,  and  Runt  popped  at  him,  but  hit  Phil.  That  stopped 
Al,  of  course.  The  Runt  took  their  guns  away  and  then  made 
Al  fix  Phil  comfortable.  Then  he  took  their  money  and  left. 
He  wasn't  such  a  bad  lot.  Runt  wa'n't,  just  a  kid  gone  wrong 
from  what  they  tell  me." 


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44  OUT    WEST 

"Did — they  ever  catch  him?'* 

"Oh,  yes,  after  a  long  time.  He  kept  comin'  back  to  his  folks. 
They  sent  him  up  for  ten,  and  he  served  six  years,  and  got  away 
a  few  months  ago." 

The  girl  was  looking  back  at  the  great  rock  as  the  horses  toiled 
up  the  grade.  Andy  laughed  and  leaned  over  to  look  at  her 
face. 

"Frightened?"  he  asked. 

"No,"  she  said;  and  added,  "Not  with  you." 

Andy  wagged  his  head.    "I  wouldn't  let  'em  hurt  you." 

"Would  you  fight?" 

"Don't  know  what  I'd  do,"  said  Andy.  Then  laughing,  "But 
they  shouldn't  hurt  you."     She  laughed,  too. 

"Who  you  goin'  to  in  Julian?"  Andy  asked. 

"Why,  you  see,  I'm  not  going  to  Julian." 

"What?    Why,  your  ticket?     Where  are  you  goin'?" 

The  girl  moved  a  bit  nearer  to  Andy  and  said  gently : 

"I  thought  I'd  get  a  seat  through  to  Julian  and  maybe  you 
wouldn't  mind  driving  me  to  the  oM  Graves'  place.    It's  not — " 

"Why,  that's  five  miles  off  the  road !" 

"Hush,  yes,  I  know.  But  can't  you  drive  me  down?  I've 
paid  through  to  Julian  and  that's  much  further." 

"But  the  company  don't  allow  that.  We  run  direct.  You'll 
have  to  come  to  Julian  tonight  and  get  someone  to  drive  you  over 
in  the  morning." 

"You  won't  have  to  come  the  five  miles  back;  there's  a  road 
that  will  take  you  into  the  main  road  from  there.     It — i" 

"Oh,  I  know.  But  I've  strict  orders  against  going  off  the 
road.  There's  lots  wants  me  to.  Why,  I'd  lose  my  place.  There's 
Mr.  Harvy  and  those  friends  inside.  They'd  never  hear  to  it.  I 
would,  on  my  word  I  would,  but  for  them." 

"But  I'll  have  to  walk  all  that  way  alone,  in  the  rain!" 

"You  go  down  to  Julian  and  drive  back  in  the  morning." 

"No,  tonight.     Oh,  do  drive  me  down!" 

Andy  looked  at  her.  She  had  drawn  quite  close  to  him  and  her 
voice  was  very  pleading. 

"I'd  like  to  awful  well.     But  Mr.  Harvy  would  never  standi  / 
it.    Oh,  I  know  him!     He'd  make  an  awful  row  with  the  coiV 
pany.     It's  against  regulations,  you  know,  so  he's  got  the  la\^ 
on  his  side." 

The  girl's  face  dropped  into  her  hands. 

"Oh,  see  here,  don't  do  that!     Oh,  come." 

Andy  took  the  lines  in  his  right  hand. 

"It's  through  all  those  woods  and  over  the  ridge.  I — I — " 
The  girl's  face  was  hid  again. 


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AGAINST  REGULATIONS  45 

Andy  was  very  uncomfortable,  so  he  put  his  arm  around  her 
and  said : 

"See  here.  You  stop  crying  and  Til  put  it  pretty  strong  to 
those  fellows  inside,  and  maybe  we  can  make  it  all  right.  Til 
try  my  prettiest.    Come,  cheer  up !" 

The  girl  raised  her  head  and  smiled  into  Andy's  eyes.  Andy 
drew  his  breath  quickly,  then  suddenly  caught  the  girl  to  him 
and  kissed  her.  She  did  not  draw  away  from  him  and  so  Andy 
kissed  her  again,  and  she  moved  to  the  far  end  of  the  seat.  Andy 
called  aloud  to  his  horses  and  sent  his  long  whip  whirling  out 
over  their  backs. 

"Have  you  gone  to  sleep,  you  beasts!"  yelled  Andy,  and  he 
thought  he  heard  the  girl  laugh. 

They  had  reached  the  summit  now  and  were  going  down  hill. 
It  was  quite  dark  and  the  rain  was  beginning  to  fall  heavily. 
Suddenly  Andy  pulled  in  his  horses  and  the  stage  stopped.  The 
girl  was  peering  forward. 

"Here's  the  road,"  said  Andy.  He  handed  her  the  lines  and 
got  down. 

"What's  the  matter?"  called  Mr.  Harvy.  Andy  came  to  the 
door  of  the  stage  and  put  the  matter  to  the  four  weary  gentle- 
men within  as  eloquently  as  he  knew  how.  There  were  excla- 
mations from  Mr.  Harvy  and  groans  from  the  others. 

"Not  under  any  consideration !"  said  Mr.  Harvy.  "This  is  im- 
possible and  absurd!  Let  her  drive  up  from  Julian  tomorrow. 
This  is  against  all  regulations.  Miller."  Mr.  Harvy  got  out  and 
told  the  g^rl  how  absurd  it  was. 

"I  have  to  get  there  tonight,"  the  girl  declared.  And  so  they 
argued.    At  last  in  desperation  Mr.  Harvy  exclaimed : 

"Well,  if  you  must,  all  right.  We  can't  go  with  you !  A  big 
strapping  girl  like  you  ought  not  to  mind  a  five-mile  tramp,  even 
if  it  is  little  damp."  And  then  he  said  sorhe  very  disagreeable 
things  to  the  gentlemen  within  about  girls  who  expected  such 
absurdities.    Quick  as  a  flash  the  girl  was  off  the  stage. 

"You  mind  my  word,  you'll  wish  you  hadn't  done  this  I  Mind 
what  I  tell  you  this  night."  Her  voice  was  not  loud  but  it  rang 
with  a  fierceness  that  made  Mr.  Harvy  recoil.  The  girl  turned 
toward  the  road.  Andy  entreated  her  to  go  on  with  them  to 
Julian,  but  she  flung  off  his  hand,  turned  back  to  shake  her  fist 
furiously  at  Mr.  Harvy  and  then  strode  down  the  road. 

Mr.  Harvy  got  back  into  the  stage. 

"A  very  strange  young  woman,  Harvy,"  said  one  of  tli*e  men. 

"A  most  disagreeable  one,  surely,"  said  another. 

"Is  this  a  type  of  your  western  woman,  Harvy?" 

Mr.  Harvy  swore. 


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46  OUT    WEST 

Ten  days  later  Andy  received  word  from  the  stage  office  that, 
instead  of  taking  the  regular  line  that  morning,  he  was  to  go  out 
in  the  afternoon  with  a  special  stage  with  Mr.  Harvy  and  iiis 
friends.  They  would  leave  Julian  late  in  the  afternoon  and  stay 
at  the  station  at  the  foot  of  the  grade  that  night,  and  leave  for 
some  mines  in  the  Santa  Ysabella  early  in  the  morning.  Andy 
did  not  like  this.  They  were  very  late  in  getting  started,  too,  and 
he  did  not  like  that.  He  disliked  Mr.  Harvy  and  his  friends  for 
the  way  they  had  treated  Miss  Watson.  He  thought  about  it 
a  great  deal.    He  thought  about  Miss  Watson  a  great  deal,  too. 

It  was  raining  again  as  Andy  drove  the  stage  out  of  Julian 
that  late  March  day.  He  knew  it  would  be  dark  when  they 
reached  the  grade  and  pitch  blackness  that  seven  miles  down. 
It  was  quite  dusk  when  they  reached  the  cross  roads  turning  off 
to  Graves'  ranch.     Suddenly  the  leaders  shied. 

"Hands  up,  my  boy."    Andy  s  hand  went  to  his  hip. 

"No  use,  Andy !    You're  spotted  on  all  sides ;  take  it  easy !" 

Someone  was  by  the  horses ;  a  second  man  was  by  the  stage 
door,  and  someone,  a  mere  lad,  Andy  thought,  had  him  covered 
with  a  Winchester. 

And  this  lad  gave  directions. 

"Take  away  their  guns,  if  they  have  any.  Hand  yours  over, 
Andy.  Here,  here,  don't  try  to  fight!  We  know  you're  brave! 
Get  down  and  lead  those  horses  off.  This  road  s  too  well  traveled 
for  hold-ups.  That'll  do!  We're  safer  here.  That's  all  right." 
He  called  to  one  of  his  men :  "You  stay  here  with  Andy !"  Then 
stepping  over  to  the  huddled,  frightened  group :  "You  gentle- 
men may  come  with  me." 

There  were  protestations. 

"What  are  you  going  to  do  with  us?" 

"No  harm,  I  assure  you.  We  are  just  going  to  have  a  little 
walk  together.  Mr.  Harvy,  you  may  lead.  Right  down  that 
road.  Not  a  word,  sir!  No,  it's  not  money  we're  after!  Go 
ahead!  We're  after  a  little  walk,  Mr.  Harvy;  it's  against  regu- 
lations, but — go  ahead !  A  great  strapping  fellow  like  you  ought 
not  to  mind  a  five-mile  tramp,  even  if  it  is  a  little  damp." 

Andy  stepped  suddenly  forward.  The  voice  which  had  been 
stirring  him  whenever  the  boy  spoke  had  sounded  familiar  words. 
The  man  by  Andy  laid  a  hand  on  his  arm. 

"Come  back  here.  You're  not  wanted  in  that  party."  Andy 
was  laughing,  leaning  forward  with  his  hands  on  his  knees  and 
laughing.  He  saw  the  boy  and  a  companion  mount  their  horses 
and  ride  down  the  road  driving  the  four  men.  And  Andy 
laughed  and  laughed  again. 

"Come  back  to  the  stage,"  said  the  man.    "It'll  be  a  long  time 


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AGAINST  REGULATIONS  47 

before  they  get  back.  If  you  play  fair,  we  can  sit  inside  and 
be  comfortable !"    They  climbed  in,  Andy  still  laughing. 

"Oh,  ain*t  she  the  smartest  little  critter !  But  ain't  she  a  wild- 
cat!" 

The  man  laughed  now. 

'That  ain't  no  girl  r 

"What  do  you  mean — the  little  one?" 

"Yes,  he  ain't  no  girl.    Oh,  you're  easy !" 

Andy  was  not  laughing  now. 

"Do  you  mean" — 

"Yes,  just  a  trick  of  Runt's.  Wish  we  could  smoke,  but  sup- 
pose it  ain't  safe." 

Andy  was  leaning  forward  on  his  knees  ^gain — this  time  in  a 
shame  so  deep  he  felt  the  tingle  of  it  his  remaining  years. 

He  had  kissed — "I'll  shoot  him  on  sight !"  Andy  muttered  deep 
in  his  soul.    And  then  he  groaned. 

It  was  late  when  the  men  toiled  back  up  the  road.  There  was 
a  signal  from  the  woods  and  the  man  guarding  Andy  got  down 
from  the  stage. 

"Get  up  to  your  place  and  take  the  stage  back  to  the  road. 
Your  party's  waiting  there,"  and  he  was  gone. 

Andy  was  thankful  to  find  only  the  four  men  in  the  road  when 
he  brought  the  stage  up.  He  knew  he  should  be  tempted  to  do 
murder,  had  that  taunting  voice  come  back  from  the  woods. 

"Are  you  all  right.  Miller?"  Mr.  Harvy  asked,  as  he  helped  the 
three  wet  and  muddy  bundles  of  fear  and  fatigue  into  the  stage. 

"Yes,"  said  Andy.    "Are  you  ?" 

"Yes — I  think  so.  I'll  just  come  up  there  with  you.  Miller. 
I  want  to  talk  with  you." 

Andy  reached  down  a  hand  and  helped  Mr.  Harvy  up.  He 
wished  he  had  not  laughed. 

"I  want  to  say,  Miller,"  said  Mr.  Harvy,  as  the  stage  started 
down  the  grade,  "that  as  these — people — this  person  has  taken  no 
money  and — has  really  not — not  harmed  anyone,  it  is  hardly  a 
matter  we  can  bring  before  the  authorities,  and  I  think  we  won't 
say  anything  about  it.  Miller.    You  understand  ?" 

"Yes,"  said  Andy. 

"And,  Miller,  I  think  we  had  better  see  if  the  company  can't 
make  some  arrangement  by  which  the  stage  can  take  passengers 
off  of  the  road  to  their  destinations — that  is,  on  very  bad  nights. 
Don't  you  think  so,  Miller?" 

"They  may  for  all  of  me,"  said  Andy.  "I — this  is  my  last  trip. 
I'm  leaving  these  parts — for  another  job." 

"Indeed?  Well,  we  won't  speak  of  this  again.  Miller.  I'll 
speak  to  the  company  myself  about  that  regulation.  You  may 
stop,  if  you  will.  Miller,  and  I'll  get  inside  the  stage." 

Berkeley,  Cal. 


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48 


THE  YELLOW  PERIL 

By  RENE  VAN  BERGEN 

T  WAS  in  the  beginning  of  1895,  at  Hiroshima, 
the  headquarters  of  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  that 
the  programme  of  "Asia  for  the  Asiatics''  was 
^  {|        first  mentioned  by  Mr.  Hayashi,  then  Secretary 

I  3        ^^  ^^  Cabinet.     It  happened  during  an  inter- 

view with  a  reporter  on  a  native  paper,  the  /»/t 
Shimpo,  I  think,  that  the  usually  self-contained 
statesman  of  Japan  thus  expressed  his  elation 
at  the  nation's  victories  over  China.  It  is  highly 
probable  that,  at  that  tune,  some  of  the  Japanese 
leaders  did  entertain  the  idea  of  entering  upon  a  career  wholly  be- 
yond the  means  at  their  command;  but  the  action  taken  by  the 
Triple  Alliance  in  compelling  the  retrocession  of  the  Liao-tung  Pen- 
insula, had  a  sobering  effect. 

Japan's  sudden  appearance  as  a  formidable  power  was  a  dis- 
agreeable surprise  to  several  European  governments,  and  Hayashi's 
announcement  caused  more  or  less  apprehension.  The  Emperor  of 
Germany  deduced  from  it  his  phantom  of  The  Yellow  Peril ;  but  the 
great  majority  of  Anglo-Saxons  received  the  statement  with  equa- 
nimity, considering  that  if  the  conception  of  such  a  programme 
was  not  due  to  temporary  mental  aberration,  its  execution  at  least 
was  beyond  the  power  of  Japan.  A  very  small  minority,  com- 
posed of  men  who  had  witnessed  that  nation's  modern  evolution, 
without  comprehending  the  connection  between  the  successive 
stages,  held  that  if  Japan  intended  seriously  to  lead  a  revolt  against 
European  supremacy  in  Asia,  she  would  succeed — unless  the  un- 
expected intervened.  They  based  this  opinion  upon  the  tenacity 
of  purpose  and  ability  to  overcome  almost  insurmountable  obstacles, 
evinced  by  the  Japanese  during  their  modern  career. 

A  brief  retrospect  will  enable  the  reader  to  gauge  this  characteris- 
tic, and  also  to  form  an  idea  of  Japan's  aims  and  purposes,  not 
from  mere  verbal  ebullitions,  but  from  the  more  conclusive  data 
conveyed  by  established  facts. 

Within  a  short  time  after  ''J^ipan's  door  of  isolation  had  been 
battered  down  by  Commodore  Perry,"  as  Marquis  Ito  expressed  it, 
the  head  of  the  Shogun's  Government,  li  Naosuke,  Lord  of  Hikone 
and  Tairo  or  Regent,  announced  a  programme  toward  establishing 
Japan  for  the  Japanese — that  is,  to  secure  Japan's  independence.  He 
met  with  feverish  opposition  from  the  buke  or  military  class;  and 
suffered  a  violent  death,  because  he  favored  intercourse  with  Occi- 
dental nations.  At  that  time,  and  until  1868.  this  military  caste, 
endowed  with  a  patriotism  equalling  an  hysterical  religious  enthusi- 


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THE  YELLOW  PERIL  49 

asm,  dreaded  territorial  invasion  by  the  treaty  powers,  and  conse- 
quently advocated  the  expulsion  of  foreigners  and  the  maintenance 
of  seclusion.  Disturbances  followed,  culminating  in  civil  war,  and 
ending  in  a  revolution  whereby  the  Shogunate,  and  with  it  the 
feudal  system,  were  overthrown,  and  the  present  Emperor,  then  a 
boy  of  fifteen,  was  placed  upon  the  throne. 

During  the  initial  years  of  foreign  intercourse,  and  owing  to  the 
obstinacy  of  the  feudal  government  in  maintaining  a  gold  standard 
of  6  to  I,  as  against  the  prevailing  rate  of  15  to  i  elsewhere, 
Japan  had  been  depleted  of  her  gold.  When  the  feverish  anxiety  to 
expel  the  foreigners  swept  over  the  country,  the  clans  were  eager 
to  purchase  at  extravagant  prices  antiquated  sailing  vessels  and 
steamers,  to  be  converted  into  men-of-war.  Worthless  guns  and 
cannon  were  shipped  to  Japan  where  they  found  ready  purchasers, 
and  I  remember  the  names  of  several  foreign  firms  who  retired  in  the 
early  seventies  upon  the  profits  derived  from  a  few  of  these  trans- 
actions. Not  even  the  wealthiest  nation  could  withstand  so  un- 
natural a  strain  upon  its  resources,  and  the  condition  of  Japan's 
treasury  may  be  imagined  after  ten  years  of  such  ill-considered 
extravagance.  When  Emperor  Mutsuhito  in  1868,  left  the  ancestral 
seclusion  of  Kyoto,  the  men  responsible  for  the  revolution  found  the 
nation  exhausted ;  and  when  they  reaffirmed  the  programme  of  Ii 
Naosuke,  "Japan  for  the  Japanese,"  their  self-assumed  task  seemed 
well-nigh  hopeless. 

The  country's  recuperative  power  would  have  been  insuffi- 
cient to  provide  the  means  for  the  extraordinary  expenditure  in- 
virfved  in  the  programme;  it  stood  in  need  of  careful  nursing  un- 
less general  debility  were  to  succeed  exhaustion.  New  resources 
were  opened  under  the  initiative  of  men  whose  atavistic  training 
had  inoculated  them  with  the  idea  that  the  profession  of  arms  is 
the  sole  honorable  occupation.  They  descended  voluntarily  from  the 
time-honored  pedestal  by  obliterating  class  distinction.  The  mer- 
chant, who  had  occupied  the  lowest  step  of  the  social  ladder  for 
more  than  a  thousand  years,  was  raised  to  their  own  plane.  Fac- 
tories were  established  under  the  temporary  supervision  of  foreign- 
ers; commerce  was  nursed  with  a  devotio'n  which  compels  the  ad- 
miration of  the  great  mercantile  nations.  The  people  of  all  classes 
were  urged  to  practice  the  strictest  economy,  and  governmental 
expenses  were  kept  down  to  a  minimum.  While  thus  laying  the 
foundation  of  future  prosperity,  the  leaders  did  not  disparage  the 
effect  of  general  intelligence.  Poor  as  the  country  was,  fifty  thou- 
sand public  schools  were  opened  on  the  most  approved  system,  and 
there  was  no  niggardliness  when  eminent  young  students  were  sent 
abroad  to  complete  their  education  and  to  gather  useful  informa- 
tion. 


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50  OUT    WEST 

All  of  this  passed  under  my  eyes,  as  I  was  a  resident  of  Tokyo 
from  1869  to  1875.  I  am  not  the  only  surviving  foreign  witness 
who  failed  to  comprehend,  or  grasp,  the  underlying  causes.  I  admit 
that  Japan  at  that  time  seemed  to  me  une  traduction  nud  faite, 
thereby  coinciding  with  the  French  opinion.  Our  excuse  is  that 
we  saw  only  externals,  some  of  which  could  not  fail  to  excite  risi- 
bility, although,  if  the  motive  had  been  understood,  it  would  have 
been  suppressed  by  respect.  No  Japanese  could  be  made  to  explain, 
notwithstanding  that  all  shared  in  the  secret.  I  admit,  moreover, 
that  we  proceeded  upon  the  wrong  hypothesis — that,  Japan  being 
an  Asiatic  country,  the  Japanese  must  necessarily  be  Asiatics,  that 
is,  possess  the  characteristics  which  render  the  natives  of  that  con- 
tinent subservient  to  our  race.  It  needs  a  severe  mental  shock  to 
upset  preconceived  and  apparently  well-founded  supposition;  but 
long  before  that  shock  came,  we  were  prepared  to  admit  errors  in 
our  reasoning. 

A  few  days  after  the  Korean  refugee,  Kim  ok  Kvun,  was  mur- 
dered at  Shanghai,  in  March,  1894 — this  was  the  incident  leading  to 
the  war  with  China — I  was  discussing  Japanese  conditions  with 
Prof.  Stevens  of  Albany,  N.  Y.,  at  that  time  Principal  of  the  flour- 
ishing Methodist  College  at  Aoyama,  Tokvo.  "When  I  had  been  in 
this  country  six  months,**  he  said,  "I  knew  all  about  Japan.  After 
another  year's  residence,  my  mind  mise^ave  me  as  to  the  accuracy 
of  my  knowledge,  and  now  that  I  have  been  here  seven  years,  I 
must  confess  that  I  know  little  more  than  nothing.'*  Humiliating  as 
it  was,  I  felt  compelled  to  admit  that  the  longer  T  was  in  Japan,  the 
more  it  puzzled  me.  Intimacy  or  friendship  never  led  to  confidence ; 
it  was  as  if  everv  individual  tongue  had  been  sealed  by  order  of  the 
government.  During  the  spring  session  of  the  Diet,  in  1894,  when 
the  war-cloud  began  to  exhibit  signs  of  being  surcharged  with  elec- 
tricity, I  was  taking  luncheon  at  the  Seyoken  restaurant  in  Gsukiji 
with  an  old  friend,  an  ex-daimio  and  member  of  the  House  of  No- 
bles. Talking  over  early  days,  he  grew  more  confidential  over  our 
reminiscences  and  I  seized  the  opportunity  of  asking  him  a  question 
of  slieht  importance,  although  the  answer  would  have  furnished 
me  with  a  clew  to  the  trend  of  the  deliberations  of  the  Cabinet. 
"Domo.  sore  wo  wakarimasen"  (I  am  sorry,  but  I  don't  know),  he 
replied.  I  was  satisfied  that  he  could  give  me  the  information  if  he 
chose,  and  showed  my  vexation  by  saying:  "What  do  you  know, 
anyhow?"  With  unimpaired  good-humor,  and  pretending  to  take 
the  question  seriously,  he  answered:    "Nothing;  I  have  no  brains." 

If,  therefore,  the  progress  and  result  of  the  war  with  China  was 
an  unpleasant  surprise  to  Europe,  the  old  residents  of  Japan  were 
no  less  astonished;  but  Hayashi's  interview  was  a  revelation,  and 
thereafter  Japan   could  not  again   conceal  her  actions  nor  secrete 


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THE  YELLOW  PERIL  51 

her  purposes.  We  were  able  to  watch  her  intelligently  and  dispas- 
sionately, because,  while  we  willingly  paid  tribute  to  her  virtues, 
the  strong  animosity  of  the  people  toward  foreigners,  rampant  until 
1899,  served  to  remind  us  that  Japan,  like  all  other  nations,  is  far 
from  perfection. 

It  was  a  marvel  to  me  when,  on  returning  to  Japan  in  1901,  I 
found  that  this  feeling  had  completely  disappeared  to  make  way 
again  for  the  politeness  which  had  charmed  us  in  the  early  seventies. 
I  was  aware  that  an  Imperial  Rescript  upon  the  subject  had  appeared, 
and  had  no  doubt  that  it  would  be  effective,  but  its  influence  upon  the 
lower  orders,  the  coolies  and  sendo  (boatmen),  was  astounding.  It 
was  odd,  at  first,  to  be  able  to  perambulate  Yokohama  and  Tokyo 
without  being  insulted  by  the  cry  of  Tojin;  and  more  so  when  the 
storekeepers  again  in  their  speech  assumed  the  address  which  they 
would  have  employed  toward  a  native  gentleman,  instead  of  the 
contemptuous  speech  suitable  for  a  coolie.  I  noticed  also,  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  Japan,  that  the  school  girls  wore  the  hair  plaited  or 
hanging  down,  instead  of  using  the  time-honored  coiffure  which 
indicated  the  age.  This  seems  of  little  importance;  but  when  it  is 
borne  in  mind  that  the  change  from  one  mode  of  wearing  the  hair 
to  another  was  connected  with  tradition  and,  to  a  certain  extent, 
with  national  superstition,  the  conclusion  was  obvious  that  the  peo- 
ple, the  masses,  had  broken  with  the  past. 

It  was,  however,  not  the  people  in  whom  I  was  concerned  but 
the  Shizoku,  as  the  former  buke  or  samurai  are  now  designated. 
It  is  said,  and  cannot  be  contradicted,  that  the  members  of  this  class 
or  caste  rule  as  firmly  over  Japan  today  as  they  did  in  the  halcyon 
days  of  the  feudal  system.  Modern  Japan  is,  indeed,  the  word  of 
their  creation,  as  the  revolution  of  1868  was  exclusively  accom- 
plished by  them;  but  with  the  introduction  of  the  conscription,  the 
profession  of  arms  was  closed  to  a  large  number,  and  when  caste 
privileges  were  abolished,  these  men  understood  that  an  honorable 
subsistence  must  depend  upon  individual  merit.  It  was  here  that  the 
buke  spirit  showed  its  mettle.  The  swords  were  displaced  by  book 
and  pen ;  the  samurai  student  threw  himself  heart  and  soul  into  his 
work.  In  the  public  schools,  who  stand  at  the  head  of  the  classes? 
Samurai  children.  Who  reap  the  reward  of  being  the  best  scholars, 
by  being  sent  abroad  at  government  expense  to  complete  their 
studies  and  gather  information  that  may  be  of  use?  The  young 
samurai.  And  how  do  those  young  men  acquit  themselves,  left  to 
their  own  discretion  and  free  from  all  supervision  ?  Few  of  us  who 
have  left  college  behind,  but  remember  with  mingled  pleasure  and 
respect  some  former  classmate  from  Japan. 

The  army  and  navy  are  officered  by  Shizoku,  not  by  means  of 
favoritism,  but  because  the  children  of  the  heimin  (common  people) 


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52  OUT    WEST 

cannot  compete  with  them  in  the  schools.  We  find  them  in  pos' 
session  of  bench  and  bar.  There  are  few  physicians  and  dentists 
who  do  not  belong  to  this  caste;  and  when  Dr.  Kitasato  proceeded 
to  Hong  Kong  to  be  inoculated  with  the  bubonic  plague  that  he 
might  probe  the  disease  and  discover  a  cure,  it  was  the  old  buke 
spirit  that  made  him  risk  his  life  in  the  career  of  his  choice.  It 
may  be  said  that  they  monopolize  the  learned  professions,  including 
the  press,  although  these  occupations  are  open  to  all  that  pass  the 
required  examinations.  Very  few  have  entered  upon  the  humbler 
walks  of  business  life;  and  those  who  did  so  voluntarily  descended 
into  the  heimin  class ;  but  we  find  them  presiding  over  great  banking 
corporations — witness  Shibusawa  Eichi — or  directing  vast  com- 
mercial enterprises,  as  Kondo  Rimpei,  the  president  of  the  Nippon 
Yusen  Kaisha  (Japan  Mail  Steamship  Company).  These  men  are 
fully  as  much  attached  to  their  chosen  profession,  as  were  their 
fathers  to  that  of  arms;  and  this  diversion  of  the  buke  spirit  from 
pursuits  of  war  to  those  of  peace,  must  be  taken  into  account  in 
discussing  Japan's  aims  and  purposes,  since,  far  from  losing  caste, 
their  success  has  materially  increased  their  influence. 

An  absence  of  a  few  years,  or  even  one  year,  from  Japan  forces 
one's  attention  upon  the  constant  and  rapid  strides  the 
nation  is  making  upon  the  road  to  prosperity.  There  are  now 
capitalists  such  as  Japan  did  not  dream  of  thirty  years  ago.  The 
consequence  is  that  wages  have  increased  enormously,  and  the  cost 
of  living  has  risen  in  proportion;  but  the  laboring  classes  can  at 
this  time  enjoy  comforts  which  were  beyond  the  reach  of  the  store- 
keepers twenty-five  years  ago.  This  accounts  for  the  lower  classes 
breaking  off  with  the  past  and  its  traditions,  and  thereby  showing 
their  sympathy  with  the  aims  and  purposes  of  Japan's  leaders. 

The  twenty-six  years  spent  in  efforts  to  establish  Japan's  inde- 
pendence upon  a  firm  basis  had  proved  to  the  leaders  their  coun- 
try's strength.  The  years  immediately  following  the  treaty  of  Shim- 
onoseki  convinced  them  that  it  also  possesses  elements  of  weakness, 
which  render  a  serious  consideration  of  such  a  programme  as  **Asia 
for  the  Asiatic,"  under  the  initiative  of  Japan,  simply  preposterous. 
It  was  not  a  mere  pretext,  when,  at  the  beginning  of  the  war  with 
China,  Japan  declared  the  desire  to  establish  Korea's  independence. 
The  peninsula,  with  its  mountain  passes  and  dangerous  coast,  can 
easily  be  rendered  inaccessible  by  a  patriotic  people,  and  under  such 
conditions  it  would  be  a  bulwark  to  Japan  against  a  continental  foe. 
The  Japanese,  therefore,  were  sincere  in  the  desire  to  confer  what 
should  be  a  boon  to  any  but  an  invertebrate  people ;  and  yet,  what  was 
the  result?    The  traditional  animosity  changed  into  violent  hatred. 

There  is  no  more  unruly,  turbulent,  overbearing  class  than  the 
Japanese  of  the  lower  orders ;  the  planters  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands 


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THE  YELLOW  PERIL  53 

will  confirm  this.  The  shizoku  knows  it ;  but  he  permits  no  familiar- 
ity, and  maintains  law  and  order  by  suppressing  the  slightest  sign 
of  insubordination.  During  the  occupation  of  Korea,  a  host  of 
coolies  were  employed,  and  some  latitude  was  necessarily  allowed; 
it  was  abused  when  occasion  offered,  and  hence  the  violent  hatred 
of  the  Koreans  toward  the  Japanese.  The  necessity  of  ruling  the 
lower  orders  with  a  firm  hand  has  caused  the  Shizoku  to  acquire, 
unconsciously,  a  domineering  manner  which  is  resented  by  the 
Chinese  and  Koreans.  A  few  years  ago  a  Japanese  mining  engineer 
was  engaged  to  superintend  operations  in  Yunnan;  he  was  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  province  within  a  few  months  after  his  arrival, 
because  the  natives  peremptorily  declined  to  obey  his  orders.  The 
occupation  of  Formosa  promised  to  be  an  expensive  failure,  until 
the  Japanese  Government  engaged  the  services  of  a  competent  Eng- 
lishman as  adviser.  In  July,  1902,  I  sailed  from  Nagasaki  to 
Yokohama  on  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha's  steamer  Kosai  Maru,  and 
was  astonished  as  well  as  pleased  to  notice  that,  whereas  the  officers 
and  sailors  were  Japanese,  the  unruly  native  stewards  and  waiters 
had  been  displaced  by  Chinese.  All  this  goes  far  to  prove  that  the 
authorities  are  aware  of  the  elements  of  weakness  as  well  as  of 
those  of  strength  in  the  national  character,  and  have  shaped  their 
policy  accordingly. 

This  is  corroborated  by  the  policy  pursued  during  the  last  decade, 
which  was  for  Japan  essentially  one  of  commercial  and  industrial 
expansion.  It  was  a  national  misfortune  that  Russia's  representa- 
tives in  the  Far  East,  Pavloff,  de  Giers,  Lessar  and  Alexieff,  persist- 
ently violated  the  several  treaties  with  Japan,  and,  since  no  redress 
could  be  obtained  before  an  international  tribunal,  there  was  nothing 
left  but  to  submit  to  the  arbitrament  of  the  sword.  Japan  did 
not  court  the  contest;  she  consulted  her  interests  by  her  sincere  and 
repeated  efforts  to  avoid  it;  but  the  Russian  diplomats  mentioned 
were  equally  sincere  to  establish  Pan-Slavism  in  Asia  by  fair  means 
or  foul,  and  Japan  could  not  afford  to  allow  that  phantom  to  as- 
sume shape. 

So  far  as  Japan  is  concerned,  the  phantom  of  a  Yellow  Peril  is 
a  mere  chimera;  persistent,  indefatigable,  and  patriotic  as  Japan's 
statesmen  are,  they  have  proved  themselves  to  be  thoroughly  prac- 
tical and  not  inclined  to  chase  after  windmills.  Their  ideals  for 
the  future  are  illustrated  by  their  attitude  toward  the  St.  Louis 
Exposition :  peaceable  progress  was  not  to  be  interfered  with,  even 
by  a  death  grapple. 

The  history  of  the  Japanese  nation  shows  a  consistent  upward 
tendency  among  her  people ;  and  by  this  expression  I  mean,  as  do 
the  Japanese  themselves,  the  leaven  of  Shizoku — ^approxiamtely  ten 
per  cent,  of  the  total  population.     They  have  demanded  equality 


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54  OUT    WEST 

with  the  nations  foremost  in  civilization,  and  earned  their  admit- 
tance by  honest  and  consistent  efforts,  sacrificing  inherited  and  even 
cherished  national  customs  when  convinced  of  their  irrationality. 
The  same  pride  which  compelled  them  to  swallow  many  a  bitter  cup 
during  the  period  of  reformation,  causes  them  to  look  with  contempt 
upon  the  Chinese,  who,  possessed  of  every  element  of  national  great- 
ness, are  individually  too  enwrapped  in  self  to  devote  a  thought  to 
the  commonwealth.  For  many  ages  Japan  has  been  a  thorn  in  the 
side  of  China,  and  there  is  more  effective  though  silent  antagonism 
between  the  natives  of  those  two  countries  than  there  is  between  the 
Japanese  and  the  European.  Between  the  American  and  the  Japan- 
ese nothing  but  cordiality  exists. 

The  statement  is  not  due  *to  national  sentiment ;  it  expresses  a 
fact.  Of  the  Europeans  in  the  Far  East,  the  British  merchant  is 
most  conspicuous  owing  to  his  numerical  majority,  and,  as  a  rule, 
he  declines  to  mingle  socially  either  with  Japanese  or  Chinese.  He 
employs  a  banto  in  Japan,  a  comprador  or  shroff  in  China,  as  go-be- 
tween, because  he  declines  to  learn  "the  beastly  language."  It  is 
not  because  he  lacks  the  ability ;  most  of  the  real  knowledge  we  pos- 
sess of  China,  as  well  as  of  Japan,  has  come  to  us  through  natives 
of  Great  Britain,  generally  but  not  always  risen  from  among  the 
interpreters.  I  have  heard  highly  educated  Japanese  declare  that 
there  are  few  native  scholars  who  can  compare  in  knowledge  of 
language,  literature,  and  folk  lore  with  Sir  Ernest  Satow  or  Basil 
Hall  Chamberlain ;  but  the  British  merchant,  after  attending  to  his 
office  duties,  goes  to  the  club,  or  spends  his  time  in  national  out- 
door sports  which  he  has  transplanted  to  the  open  posts.  He  does 
not  care  to  associate  with  the  natives,  whose  language  he  does  not 
understand  and  whose  ideals  he  cannot  comprehend.  The  American 
merchant,  on  the  other  hand,  has  no  objection  to  associating  with 
a  Japanese  gentleman,  so  long  as  he  is,  and  acts  like,  one ;  and  the 
extraordinary  increase  in  trade,  notably  in  our  exports,  shows  how 
that  line  of  conduct  is  appreciated. 

The  situation  may  be  summed  up  as  follows:  Give  the  Japanese 
his  due;  allow  him  credit  for  his  efforts  and  for  what  he  has  ac- 
complished ;  in  other  words,  admit  him  to  the  equality  which  he  has 
earned,  subject  to  the  social  conditions  prevailing  everywhere,  and 
the  Yellow  Peril,  so  far  as  Japan  is  concerned,  will  dissolve  in  the 
air.  But  deny  him  his  right,  brand  him  with  the  iron  of  "Asiatic" 
on  the  forehead,  and  he  will  turn  for  recognition  to  his  fellow- 
Asiatics,  the  sense  of  injury  animating  him  to  dissimulate  his  own 
better  nature.  In  that  case,  the  phantom  will  be  thrown  out  of  sight 
for  years  to  come;  but  the  future  generations  of  Japanese  will 
evince  the  same  tenacity  of  purpose,  the  same  persistent  effort,  until 
the  Mongol  stands  equal  to  the  Causasian  in  every  devil's  invention 


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THE  YELLOW  PERIL  55 

of  wholesale  and  legalized  murder.  And  when  the  phantom  is  resur- 
rected, the  world  will  witness  a  struggle  of  races,  the  mere  con- 
templation of  which  causes  mental  nausea. 

The  history  of  the  past  few  years  corroborates  and  illustrates  this 
view.  It  is  now  known  that  the  so-called  Boxer  Troubles  were  in 
reality  a  supreme  effort  on  the  part  of  the  Chinese  to  expel  the 
foreigners  and  return  to  an  isolation  which  the  contraction  of  the 
worM,  owing  to  modern  inventions,  renders  impossible.  Japan, 
since  1898,  had  made  strenuous  efforts  to  conciliate  the  Empress- 
Dowager  and  her  Court,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  frustrate 
Russia's  Pan-Slavistic  policy.  Instead  of  holding  aloof,  and  there- 
by increasing  her  influence  with  the  Manchu  dynasty,  Japan  cheer- 
fully and  honestly  joined  the  occidental  powers  in  rescuing  the  for- 
eign legations  at  Peking.  She  had  her  reward  in  the  respect  and 
good  will  which  the  superior  discipline  of  her  troops  inspired  among 
the  Pekingese.  While  the  paramount  consideration  of  his  own  indi- 
vidual welfare  is  a  serious  obstacle  in  the  way  of  national  restora- 
tion, the  Chinese  is  neither  fool  nor  blockhead ;  and  when  the  march 
of  the  allied  forces  afforded  him  an  opportunity  to  judge,  he  gave 
the  palm  to  the  Japanese.  Not  all  the  cunning  and  ability  of  the 
Russian  representative — not  all  the  prestige  of  Russia's  dreaded 
power,  was  able  to  dislodge  Japanese  influence  at  Peking,  after  the 
Court  returned  from  its  flight. 

It  is  China  courting  Japan,  and  not  the  reverse  as  it  was  in  1898 
and  1899,  because  Japan  understands  the  danger  underlying  the 
effort  to  redeem  a  people  so  numerous  and  so  hopelessly  enshrouded 
in  atavistic  prejudices.  The  task  would  devolve  upon  the  Shizoku 
whom  she  needs  at  home.  They  are  wanted,  badly  wanted,  to  raise 
the  heimin  to  their  own  high  plane,  and  their  distribution  over 
China  would  seriously  impede  the  progress  of  Japan.  Two  years 
ago,  when  traveling  in  China,  I  happened  to  meet  a  Japanese  officer, 
temporarily  detached  to  assist  in  drilling  some  Chinese  provincial 
troops.  I  could  perceive  from  his  remark  that  "his  time  would 
soon  be  up,'*  that  he  was  not  very  enthusiastic  about  his  duties; 
but  it  showed  me  also  that  the  Japanese  Government  dreads  the 
deteriorating  effect  of  association  with  the  Chinese,  by  reducing  the 
term  of  such  detachment,  and  changing  the  officers  selected  for  such 
duty. 

If,  at  this  time,  the  Chinese  were  united ;  that  is,  if  instead  of  the 
Eighteen  Provinces — Shih  Pah  Seng  or  Sz'  Pak  Seng,  as  the 
Chinese  sometimes  designate  their  country — each  constituting  a 
semi-independent  kingdom,  there  were  a  united  empire,  the  phantom 
of  the  Yellow  Peril  might  soon  assume  the  shape  of  a  threatening 
cloud  to  foreigners  in  China.  At  no  time  in  my  travels  in  China  have 
I  noticed  such  deep,  if  suppressed,  hatred  toward  foreigners  as  with- 

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56  OUT    WBST 

in  the  past  few  years.  This  feeling  grows  in  intensity  from  the 
masses  to  the  Kuan  (Mandarins).  It  would  be  folly  to  maintain 
that  the  Middle  Kingdom  has  been  stationary  since  the  Boxer 
troubles.  Strenuous  efforts  have  been  made  to  strengthen  the  cen- 
tral government,  nor  were  they  altogether  unsuccessful.  When,  dur- 
ing the  Boxer  troubles,  Chang  Chih-tung  and  Liu  K'un-yi,  the  two 
most  powerful  viceroys  of  the  Yang-toz'  provinces,  undertook  to 
preserve  order  within  their  respective  jurisdiction,  they  acted  in 
direct  contravention  of  telegraphic  orders  from  Peking;  but  in  ig- 
noring these  orders,  which  they  pronounced  a  forgery,  they  merely 
re-asserted  a  prerogative,  since  the  Central  Government  had  no 
right  to  involve  their  provinces  in  a  war  of  the  North. 

The  two  viceroys,  however,  admitted  that  this  well-established 
precedent  was  a  powerful  advantage  to  China's  enemies.  When 
the  protocol  was  signed,  and  China  had  formally  accepted  the 
amount  of  indemnity  to  be  paid  by  her,  the  several  provinces  were 
notified  of  their  respective  contributions  toward  the  annual  in- 
stallments. At  that  time  the  Court  was  still  at  Hsian-fu.  Upon 
its  return  journey  to  Peking,  and  while  resting  at  Kai  Ferg-fu,  a 
protest  was  received,  signed  by  most  of  the  viceroys  and  gov- 
ernors, headed  by  Chang  Chih-tung,  who  had  conferred  by  tele- 
graph with  his  colleagues,  and  thus  initiated  united  action.  While 
I  was  at  Shanghai,  in  the  early  spring  of  1902,  I  saw  another  joint 
protest  of  the  provincial  authorities  published  in  the  Su  Pao.  It 
appeared  that  Sir  Robert  Hart,  the  Inspector-General  of  the  Impe- 
rial Maritime  Customs,  had  instructed  some  of  his  subordinates  to 
proceed  into  the  interior  for  the  purpose  of  opening  postoffices.  The 
local  authorities  complained  to  the  Taotai  of  Hankow,  who  brought 
it  to  the  notice  of  Viceroy  Liu  K'un-yi.  The  viceroys  and  gov- 
ernors made  common  cause,  and  again  it  was  Chang  Chih-tung 
who  first  affixed  his  signature,  although  the  affair  did  not  affect  him 
or  his  territory. 

This  instance  shows  forcibly  how  the  Chinese  authorities  hamper 
their  own  efforts.  Sir  Robert  Hart  had  not  exceeded  his  duties; 
on  the  contrary,  all  his  efforts  have  been  consistently  toward  the 
same  object,  viz.,  centralizing  the  government.  But  Chang  Chih- 
tung  and  his  associates  would  like  to  see  this  accomplished  with- 
out the  loss  of  their  privileges  and  perquisites — which  is  impossible. 
Personally  the  ex-viceroy,  who  is  now  the  principal  adviser  of  the 
Empress-Dowager  at  Peking,  would  willingly  renounce  the  per- 
quisites of  office,  because  his  official  career  has  proved  him  to  be  a 
patriot;  but  like  all  of  his  fellow-Chinese,  his  sympathies  are  with 
the  past,  and  every  deviation  from  established  precedent  is  a  stab 
at  his  convictions. 

It  is  a  serious  error  to  suppose  that  patriotism  does  not  exist  in 


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THB  YELLOW  PERIL  57 

China.  A  short  time  prior  to  the  capture  of  Port  Arthur  by  the 
Japanese,  in  1894,  I  was  talking  with  a  wealthy  banker  and  mer- 
chant at  Chefoo,  and  asked  him  why  he  did  not  start  a  patriotic 
fund,  as  the  Japanese  had  done.  **Do  you  take  me  for  a  fool?" 
he  asked  indignantly.  "Suppose  I  did  subscribe  $10,000  for  such 
a  purpose,  $9,999  would  find  their  way  into  the  pockets  of  the 
mandarins,  and  the  last  dollar  would  be  taken  as  a  commission  for 
manipulating  the  money."  But  I  could  see  that,  if  he  were  satisfied 
that  the  money  would  have  been  expended  properly,  Sung  Tai  would 
have  subscribed  many  times  that  amount. 

Again,  after  the  event  referred  to,  I  had  returned  to  Shanghai, 
and,  as  Christmas  was  approaching  I  visited  a  well-knowa  jewelry 
store  on  Nanking  Road.  Chatting  with  the  fat  proprietor,  I  men- 
tioned incidentally  that  Port  Arthur  had  fallen..  "It  is  not  true!'' 
he  fairly  shouted.  I  never  saw  a  Chinese  so  excited,  and  when  I 
was  telUng  him  that  I  had  been  there,  he  interrupted  me,  trembling 
with  excitement:  '*I  bet  you  $100!''  Proceeding  to  the  safe,  he 
produced  the  amount:  '*No  more  talkee  talkee!  Put  up  your  money." 
Seeing  that  nothing  would  satisfy  him  but  to  lose  the  hundred  dol- 
lars, and  as  he  was  growing  insulting,  1  humored  him.  A  few  days 
later  he  paid,  with  Chinese  stoicism,  but  his  remarks  upon  the 
mandarins  showed  how  deeply  he  was  concerned  in  his  country's 
defeat. 

So  long  as  China  maintains  her  present  system  of  administration, 
she  is  harmless  to  cause  the  Yellow  Peril  phantom  to  assume  shape. 
More  realistic  by  far,  and  I  may  add  more  dangerous  to  civilization, 
is  that  of  Pan-Slavism. 

Why  has  Russia  consistently  opposed  with  the  crushing  power 
of  her  prestige  any  and  all  measures  that  might  lead  to  national 
reform  in  China?  Why  did  she  deny  its  government  the  right  to 
grant  railway  concessions  to  Englishmen  ?  Why  did  she  insist  upon 
securing  strategic  privileges  upon  railway  concessions  whose  grant 
she  could  not,  or  dared  not,  prohibit  ?  Why  did  she  force  loans  upon 
China,  while  her  own  expenses  compelled  her  to  borrow  ?  Every 
step  taken  by  the  Russian  representative  at  Peking,  since  Count 
Cassini  held  that  position,  has  been  with  the  view  of  securing  a  pre- 
ponderating influence  at  the  Court,  and  to  carry  favor  with  the 
Kuan  (Mandarins).  Every  artifice  ingenuity  could  invent  was  prac- 
ticed upon  the  Court  to  induce  it  to  consent  to  a  Russian  protecto- 
rate. That  object  achieved,  Chinese  money  would  be  used  to  bribe 
the  venal  mandarins  into  subservancy ;  hence  the  repeated  efforts  to 
oust  Sir  Robert  Hart  from  the  control  of  the  Customs,  and  to  sub- 
stitute a  creature  of  Russia.  After  a  few  years,  when  the  officials 
had  grown  used  to  the  idea  of  Russian  supremacy,  officers  would 
be  detailed  to  drill  Chinese  provincial  troops,  and  after  they  had 


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58  OUT    WEST 

been  converted  into  a  disciplined  machine,  it  would  be  used  against 
the  mandarins  to  displace  them  by  Russians.  That  was  the  meaning 
of  M.  Paul  Lessar's  ill-timed  admission,  ''On  letur  tiera  le  queue 
jusqu'ils  mordent/'  (We  shall  pull  their  pigtails  until  they  bite). 
The  scheme  was  more  than  feasible,  it  had  every  factor  of  suc- 
cess— until  Japan  punctured  Russia's  sole  effective  means,  her 
prestige. 

His  Excellency  Count  Cassini,  Russian  Ambassador  at  Wash- 
ington, in  a  recent  article  in  the  North  Aftierican  Review,  ascribes 
to  Japan  the  very  policy  inaugurated  and  pursued  by  Russia.  He 
also  refutes  the  common  misapprehension  that  the  Chinese  are  cow- 
ards— and  he  knows  whereof  he  speaks.  It  was  by  the  notorious 
Cassini  Convention  entered  into  while  he  was  Russian  Minister 
at  Peking,  that  the  idea  of  rendering  China  subject  to  Pan-Slavism 
first  took  shape;  and  as  His  Excellency  draws  attention  to  what 
Japan  might  do  when  in  command  of  China's  hordes,  it  is  well  to 
ask  what  Germany,  aye,  and  the  rest  of  continental  Europe,  would 
do,  if  China's  millions  were  aligned  under  the  banners  of  the  Tsar, 
and  China's  resources,  combined  with  the  industry  of  her  people,  had 
laid  a  network  of  rails  over  the  Asiatic  Continent?  That  is  the 
real  phantom  of  the  Yellow  Peril — and  if  it  be  dispelled,  we  owe 
it  to  Japan's  patriotism  and  foresight. 


NOON 

By  NORA  MA  Y  FRENCH 

[HE  brook  flowed  through  a  bending  arch  of  leaves- 
Flowed  through  an  arch  of  leaves  into  the  sun ; 
But  all  was  shadow  where  it  left  my  feet — 
A  shade  with  netted  ripples  overrun, 
A  brook  that  flowed  in  coolness  to  the  sun. 


^' 


Beyond  the  arch  of  shadow,  color  lay — 
Vivid  to  narrowed  eyelids,  fircely  bright. 

And  bright  the  happy  water  slipped  away 

In  gleaming  pools  and  broken  lines  of  light. 

Los  Ansreles 


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59 
THE  FIRST  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER 

By  IV.  J.  HANDY 
YING  before   me   are   twenty-seven   copies   of  the   first 
newspaper   published    in    California — possibly   the   first 
paper  issued  west  of  the  Missouri  river. 

This  made  its  appearance  at  Monterey  August  15, 
1846,  five  weeks  after  Sloat  had  raised  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  and  taken  California  for  the  United  States.  It 
was  discontinued,  or  merged  with  the  California  Star, 
edited  by  Sam  Brannan,  about  May,  1847.  No  com- 
plete file  of  this  paper  is  known  to  be  in  existence. 
Three  of  our  California  principal  libraries  have  copies, 
neither  file  exactly  alike.  It  would  be  a  rare  relic  for 
any  library  in  this  part  of  the  state.* 
This  collection  covers  numbers  one  to  seven,  inclusive,  in  fine  condition, 
and  other  numbers  to  April  27,  1847 — twenty-seven  in  all. 

Walter  Colton,  who  originated  the  idea  of  this  newspaper,  was  chaplain  on 
the  man-of-war  Savannah,  coming  to  this  coast  at  the  time  of  the  occupa- 
tion, and  was  present  when  the  Mexican  flag  was  hauled  down  and  the  United 
States  flag  raised.  He  was  the  first  American  holding  the  office  of  Alcalde, 
first  by  appointment  of  the  Military  Commander.  So  fair  were  his  decisions 
to  all  concerned  that  he  was  elected  to  the  same  office  without  opposition ; 
later  he  was  Judge  of  the  Admiralty  Court  for  the  whole  of  California. 

Associated  with  Colton  was  one  Dr.  Semple.  Semple  was  certainly  a 
prominent  figure  in  the  early  days.  We  find  him  one  of  the  Bear  Flag 
party  at  Sonoma;  one  of  the  signers  to  terms  of  the  surrender  of  Gen. 
Vallejo  and  others;  one  of  the  guard  who  conducted  the  prisoners  to  Sutter's 
fort;  and  President  of  the  Constitutional  Convention  in  1849.  Colton  says: 
"My  partner  is  an  emigrant  from  Kentucky — stands  six  feet  eight  in  his 
stockings.  He  is  in  buckskin  dress,  a  foxskin  cap,  is  true  with  his  rifle, 
ready  with  his  pen,  and  quick  at  the  type-case.*' 

Colton  says:  "Saturday,  Aug.  15.  Today  the  first  newspaper  ever  pub- 
lished in  California  made  its  appearance.  The  honor,  if  such  it  be,  of 
writing  its  Prospectus,  fell  to  me.  It  is  to  be  issued  on  every  Saturday, 
and  is  published  by  Semple  and  Colton.  Little  did  I  think  when  relinquish- 
ing the  editorship  of  the  North  American,  in  Philadelphia,  that  my  next 
feat  in  this  line  would  be  off  here  in  California. 

"We  created  the  materials  of  our  office  out  of  the  chaos  of  a  small  con- 
cern, which  had  been  used  by  a  Roman  Catholic  monk  in  printing  a  few  sec- 
tarian tracts.  The  press  was  old  enough  to  be  preserved  as  a  curiosity; 
the  mice  had  burrowed  in  the  balls ;  there  were  no  rules,  no  leads,  and  the 
types  were  rusty  and  all  in  pi.  It  was  only  by  scouring  that  the  letter.^ 
could  be  made  to  show  their  faces.  A  sheet  or  two  of  tin  were  procured, 
and  these,  with  a  jack-knife,  were  cut  into  rules  and  leads.  Luckily  we 
found,  with  the  press,  the  greater  part  of  a  keg  of  ink;  and  now  came  the 
main  scratch  for  paper.  None  could  be  found,  except  what  is  used  to  en- 
velop the  tobacco  of  the  cigar  smoked  here  by  the  natives.  A  coaster  had 
a  small  supply  of  this  on  board,  which  we  procured.  It  is  in  sheets  a  little 
larger  than  the  common-sized  foolscap.  And  this  is  the  size  of  our  first 
paper,  which  we  have  christened  the  Californian. 

"Though  small  in  dimensions,  our  first  number  is  as  full  of  news  as  a 
black  walnut  is  of  meat.  We  have  received  by  couriers,  during  the  week, 
*It  has  since  been  boairht  by  the  Pasadena  Public  Library. 

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60  OUT    WBST 

intelligence  from  all  the  important  military  posts  through  the  territory.  It 
reached  the  public  for  the  first  time  through  our  sheet.  We  have,  also,  the 
declaration  of  war  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  with  an  abstract 
of  the  debate  in  the  Senate.  A  crowd  was  waiting  when  the  first  sheet  was 
thrown  from  the  press.  It  produced  quite  a  little  sensation.  Never  was  a 
bank  run  upon  harder;  not,  however,  by  people  with  paper  to  get  specie, 
but  exactly  the  reverse.  One-half  of  the  paper  is  in  English,  the  other 
in  Spanish.  The  subscription  for  a  year  is  five  dollars;  the  price  of  a  single 
sheet  is  twelve  and  a  half  cents,  and  is  considered  cheap  at  that." 

Type  being  scanty,  in  many  cases  words  were  contracted  or  mis-spelled; 
and  the  letter  W  being  in  particularly  short  supply,  it  became  necessary 
to  use  in  its  place  an  inverted  M,  sometimes  two  VV's  or  two  UU's ;  the 
lines  are  often  uneven,  spacing  irregular  and  press  work  thin  or  heavy,  as 
the  ink  was  distributed  hap-hazard — probably  with  a  hand  pad.  But  with 
all  the  poor  material  at  its  disposal,  the  Californian  presents  a  fair  appear- 
ance and  contains  many  interesting  items  of  early  days. 

The  Prospectus  is  somewhat  lengthy,  but  is  covered  by  the  one  paragraph : 
"IVe  shall  be  for  California,  for  all  her  interests,  social,  civil  cmd  religious, 
encouraging  everything  that  promotes  these,  resisting  everything  that  can 
do  them  harm." 

And  pretty  good  reading ;  pretty  good  principles,  too.     Here  it  is  in  full  :* 

PROSPECTUS. 

This  is  the  first  paper  ever  published  in  California,  and  though 
issued  upon  a  small  sheet,  is  intended  it  shall  contain  matter  that 
will  be  read  with  interest.  The  principles  which  will  govern  us  in 
conducting  it,  can  be  set  forth  in  a  few  words. 

we  shall  maintain  an  entire  and  utter  severance  of  all  political 
connexion  with  Mexico,  we  renounce  at  once  and  forever  all  feaUy 
to  her  laws,  all  obedience  to  her  mandates. 

we  shall  advocate  an  oblivion  of  all  past  political  offences  and 
allow  every  man  the  privilege  of  entering  this  new  era  of  events 
unembarrassed  by  any  part  he  may  have  taken  in  previous  revolutions. 

We  shall  maintain  freedom  of  speech  and  the  press,  and  those  great 
principles  of  religious  toleration,  which  allows  every  man  to  worship 
God  according  to  the  dictates  of  his  own  conscience. 

We  shall  advocate  such  a  system  of  public  instruction  as  will  bring 
the  means  of  a  good  practical  education  to  every  child  in  California. 

We  shall  urge  the  immediate  establishment  of  a  well  organized 
government  and  a  universal  obedience  to  its  laws. 

we  shall  encourage  imigration,  and  take  special  pains  to  point 
out  to  agricultural  imigrants  those  sections  of  unoccupied  lands, 
where  the  feraility  of  the  soil  will  most  aptly  repay  the  labors  of  the 
husbandman. 

we  shall  encourage  domestic  manufactures  and  the  mechanic  arts 
as  sources  of  private  wealth,  individual  comfort  and  indispensable 
to  the  public  prosperity. 

we  shall  urge  the  organization  of  interior  defences  sufficient  to 
protect  the  property  of  citizens  from  the  depredations  of  the  wild 
indians. 

We  shall  advocate  a  territorial  relation  of  California  to  the  United 
States,   til  the   number  of  her  inhabitants   is   such   that   she  can  be 
admitted  a  member  of  that  glorious  confederacy. 
*Inall  quotations,  the  oriffiaal  has  t>eeii  followed  in  spelling  and  punctuation. 


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Ac  t.  And  it  ft  further  MMtcd,  Uttl  tbeJIillitie,  wUt 


ptteMi  Aci,  or  anjr  other,  mey ,  if  io  Ibc  opioioa  of  the  Pi«l- 
raeb  «  mrflen  of  Mbtic  ioibveliQa  m  ^^^  <^  etigencift  of  the  pahlic  tenrice  reqviie  ii,)  be 
of  •  good  pradieel  adiicaliMi  to  vmfpotnpdiwk  to  aerve  for  •  pcHod  not  eioeediog  lii  monthe 

«  Miy  <>no  year  from  the  date  of  <beir  arrlral  It  the  apfwinU 


tvoeete  __ 
.  ineon^of 
'nlii'trnia*  im  mmj  imo  year  iroiB  we  aaie 

^n  'ATgm  the  imnediate  eattbtiihawiil  ef  •  «el«f^'«4jMee,  onleM  looiicr  daefai 
<;  ^  t-Tiimedt  and  a  eoiveewfyhedion—  to  to  bwa.    fleetiima,  M.ft4dt7,  Treat 
JriU  encourage  imi^tion,  Md'lalM  i^teial  Mtae  lalMteerB  inio  '*— ^ — '—   '^  — 
■j'ii  t.>  3};rieuUund  — jgiaala  Iheae  aecMMt  oT  » 
.-l^l-'-'i  i«^»  Jl^ca-U»e_  faiiliUf  rfthaeea^llliiil 
'lafltiMe  the  fibora  e#  Ike  htHbeodaha. 
we  •haB  CttnoiMafe  dome^lSc  manefar 
dmuc  arts  as  aearcca  of  priraie  wealth,  u 
md  isdMpemable  to  the  puUie  proqierity. 

we  •Inlf  vrge  the  organizaiioii  ^ iateriu  ««,..»^  -^^^ r-  — -      ■  ■■■■,—  awT  no  hwui  qdoo 

dft^t  to  protect  the  pfoperty  ofciliaaM  from  the  depredi.  iMhiaiien,  it  Cwb«««eoafWled  huo  arMdabipi  pimr 
tnikf  ofrhewiMradnnt.  P»  •&•  N«t*Md  aereioe,  ewd  in  MtflBdcot  numben  &  S^ 


wo  tball  advocate  a  territorial  rektiott  «f  CaUforaia  te  Ihi  piolMtiot  til 
RoHwl  States,  Ur  the  Dimihor  of  her  iiihabiiaBli  ia  tMh  that^^ 
•be  ceo  he  adraiHad  a  flMiber  ofthdl  gkiiooa  eottfodamcy.     Smim  f ,  Arm^M  lha«  the  miStii  aid  TohiDtcen  diall 

'r^;;^f!^9''^i^^mmt»€40mto^^  whea  in  utaal 


.    ■^»»  •"If***  •■■  r'"""*  i^wui«  oi  UN  cemma— ai  f^mnmmm  wamm  pay  oa  Me 
•oehMfaCfte  Ameriaeai  aqoadnia  ow  ear  eoial,  to  tu  Mittviot^ 
ch^eeadweiotbep<Uietranq«aky,  theorgMimioBiri     In  pvMt^wofiharfMfv 
f^  repraaeMiiite  fevenMDem  ttdow  aftuiet  withlhiof  IhtlUhll^heainiied  i 
UfliledSMaB.  FROCLi 

wo  riMled«DMle  the  lowest  nte  of  d«tiai«»fcveit»ia.     btooiiderMiea  that  the 


war. 


~.   wogif  thew  heiew. 

Adof  Goii(irees.appffOTedMayl6th1P4il 

*;«.  I  J«  eoMidOMliem  liic  hfWk  act  of  ih«  lif-n.iblicl 

01  Meneo,  there  ctistt  t  ctattof  war,  between  that  c  ^or  <!•' 


m*,  M.ft4dt7,  Treat  (^tbeorgUMatioa  ofthevvd* 
wlo  CoaipaMee,  Battalioas  tod  RegimeoCf,  wd  of 
oMeeraf  and  ether  ciif^rtiam  ffiMve  to  Ibsr 
a.4^^  «.M.....b..  e,^  llM  mliiary  «Q^  «r  UfPi.       ' 
•Meted,  that  the  fmideot  of 


tttftht  coMt,  Md  Cm  the  te«cnl  delfsce  of  the 


r«  »hJ,  the  Pi«idenl,iiader  d«i« 
I  the  folio 


Mi,  AMI  1 

Ibea  these  . 

We  ahaS  M  flit  Ct^fomk^v. „^„ 

<MI  ead  rrlyiim  ■< ■rwiiMJBjt  every  thing  that 

«*?<».  •••M«««f«y^*i««Srt  can  do  them  harm  ^ , ^ „^,««  .« 

Thwpaaaa  ah4l  beiree  and  independent;  ueawed  by -Mne,  and  I  eqwcklir  ffconwend  lo  al  penoos  who  held 

Ef.^^fflf"**'^^  PP'-    Tfc«  "If*  of  •«•  ««»«•"  S^"  «  military  enpbvneot  eader  the  goveranieol  of  the 

Adlbed«iiedi»Me,whohafesii«geatMMleiiiake,pre-U.S.  that  they  be  Ti^nt  and  tealow*  m  the dtacheige nf 

o«ve  of  the  «Me  weal.  their  leapeetive  detwi.    Moreover,  I  eihort  the  entire  aeo- 

weriwfl  by  hefars  war  neiiffl  the  fredMM  domestic  in- pie  of  the  U.  &  by  their  bve  of  country  and  a  aeawolthe 

Ageaee  and  Ihe  eofflieit  Hie^  new*.  "yevM*  which  have  obKged  ihenrto  appeal  to  the  hut  retort 

-inr  MAttcation  wpon  a  rerry  waall  slicet  of  nation*,  (and  in  m  meeh  n  it  coniults  the  meant  moat 

MaUbe  eehffBd  as  soon  as  the  lequikifc  upportune  to  abbreriale  the  calamiliea)  that  they  wntild  ez- 

*t»»aed.  «rt  theoitelret  to  maintain  order,  to  promote  reHinioo,  to 

r»  *tMMt»«..  ««^.*».  — -.  'Uitoin  the  authority  and  efScieeey  of  the  lawt  and  to  irive 

I  ne  u.  »^  Moep  orwar.  Warren,  GapC.  Hall,  onued  «r.  the  conMitutional  autheritbs  to  obtain  an  carlr  iuit  and 
ejdnoday  I8tfc,  hnof$  as  the  act  of  CoagF«st  and  the  pro-  hom^.lc  peaee.  ''  ^ 

ir*!2rji!Slt2i!^'  '*^^"«  ••«*^  *»^  ^'    ^  •'     ^^  Tr.«mo.r  of  whirb.  I  bafc  placed  my  hand  and  l.-.w 


...    . ,.-.  ...v., .  .,.  ».,.v.u.  .  JHKTQ  piac«9  ray  nana 
^'Ru^J  the  seal  of  the  U»>iteJ  Statvs  to  be  afliic 

JAMra  K.  POLK.  Pnti^cijC^.^ 
iVasmincton.  M.iv  Ih,  1^4(>. 


FACSIMILE  OF  FIRST  PAGE  OF  THE  FIRST  PAPER  EVER  PRINTED  in  CALIFORNIA 


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62  OUT     WEST 

we  shall  support  the  present  measures  of  the  commander  in  chief 
of  the  American  squadron  en  our  coast,  so  far  as  they  conduce  to  the 
public  tranquility,  the  organization  of  a  free  representative  govern- 
ment and  our  alliance  with  the  United  States. 

we  shall  advocate  the  lowest  rate  of  duties  on  foreign  imports, 
and  favor  an  exemption  of  the  necessities  of  life,  even  from  these 
duties. 

We  shall  go  for  California — for  all  her  interests,  social  civil  and 
religious — encouraging  everything  that  promotes  these,  resisting  every- 


rrom  Photo  by  Taber 


D.   S.  CONSUL  AT   MONTBKEV,  1847 

thing  that  can  do  them  harm. 

This  press  shall  be  free  and  independent ;  unawed  by  power  and 
untrammeled  by  party.  The  use  of  its  columns  shall  be  denied  to 
none,  who  have  suggestions  to  make,  promotive  o  fthe  public  weal. 

we  shall  lay  before  our  readers  tlic  freshest  domestic  intelligence 
and  the  earliest  foreign  news. 

we  commence  our  publication  upon  a  very  small  sheet  but  its 
dimensions  shall  be  enlarged  as  soon  as  the  requisite  materials  can 
be  obtained. 


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THE  FIRST  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER 


63 


Then   follows   President    Polk's   proclamation    declaring   war   with    Mexico, 
dated  May  15.  1846.     And  the  following  important 

NOTICE. 

WHEREAS,  the  authorities  of  the  United  States  deeming  i  of  the 

first  importance  to  maintain  order  and  quiet,  and  t  give  security  to 

all  persons,  and  to  prevent  any  riot  or  disturbance  in  the  toum  of 

Monterey  and  its  jurisdiction.    A   order  zcas  published  prohibiting 


t-rom  fnoio  oy  laoer 


Probably  the  only  **  American  "  yet  alive  who  was  livinsr  in  Monterey 
when  the  first  California  newspaper  was  published  there.  He  came  here 
first  in  1831,  in  the  bark  "Louise/*  and  has  resided  in  California  continu- 
ously since  1H38.  He  is  now  nearly  90  years  old,  and  wrote  the  sig-nature  re- 
produced above,  a  few  weeks  ag^o  without  usinir  g-lasses. 

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THB    FIRST    CALIFORNIA    NEWSPAPER  65 

th€  sale  or  disposition  or  an  ardent  spirits.  Notwithstanding  the 
order,  sailors  an  soldiers  of  the  United  States,  as  well  as  persons  of 
this  phc  frequently  become  Intoxicated,  It  is  therefore  evident  th 
persons  are  still  indirectly  disposing  of  liquors.  It  is  hereb  ordered 
that  no  one  is  to  sell  or  dispose  of  any  intoxicatin  liquors  whatever, 
and  all  persons  that  have  formerly  vende  liquor,  and  vll  store  and 
shop  keepers  and  keepers  of  publ  houses  are  prohibited  from  keeping 
any  liquors,  or  wines  of  any  kind  or  description  in  their  shops  or 
stores,  so  doing  wl  be  considered  Tnohtion  of  this  order,  and  will  be 
look  upon  with  the  greatest  severity,  and  punished  by  forfeiture  their 
liquors,  fine  and  imprisonment  at  the  disctfition  of  Magistrate,  Monte- 
rey, August  13,  1846. 

WALTER  COLTON,    ) 

)    U.  S.  Justice. 

RODMAN  M.  PRICE,  ) 

The  first  battle  in  California,  in  which  blood  was  spilled,  was 
fought  on  the  24th  day  of  June  (1846),  on  the  plains  between  Petaloma 
and  St.  Raphael,  between  a  party  of  Californians  under  command  of 
Capt.  Del  la  Torre  eighty  six  strong,  and  a  small  detachment  of  the 
Patriot  Army,  under  Lieut.  Ford,  (now  Capt.  Ford,)  22  strong. 
Some  days  previous  to  the  battle  Del  la  Torre  crossed  the  Bay  with 
70  men,  and  was  joined  by  a  small  party  which  had  been  collected 
by  Correo  and  Padea  on  the  North  side. 

The  garrison  at  Sonoma  being  informed  that  3  Americans  were 
prisoners  at  La  Torre's  Camp,  at  t>arty  of  22  under  Lieut.  Ford,  left 
Sonoma  on  the  23rd,  on  their  arrival  at  the  Santa  Rosa  Plains  they 
ascertained  from  some  prisoners  which  they  had  taken,  that  La 
Torre  had  gone  by  the  Laggoones  towards  San  Raphel,  they  fol- 
lowed all  night,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  24th  came  up  with  the 
enemy,  encamped  for  breakfast  in  the  edge  of  a  plain,  bordering  on 
a  brushwood  of  several  acres.  Lieut.  Ford,  with  several  of  his  men 
charged  on  them  in  such  a  manner  as  to  draw  them  to  the  edge  of 
the  wood  where  the  remainder  of  his  force  were  stationed,  the  enemy 
charged  so  closely  that  the  fire  of  our  riflemen  was  very  effective, 
having  several  prisoners,  to  guard  there  was  only  18  men  engaged, 
they  fired  only  about  18  or  20  shots,  and  from  the  best  information 
we  can  get;  the  enemy  lost  8  killed  and  2  wounded,  while  our  men 
were  not  touched  under  a  discharge  of  near  200  muskets.  The  enemy 
retired  to  a  hill  about  a  mile  off,  our  party  then  stopped  at  a  coral, 
in  full  view  and  changed  their  tired  horses  for  fresh  ones  from  the 
cncmys  cavallada  with  the  prisoners  whom  they  had  rescued,  and 
those  of  the  enemy  whom  they  had  previously  taken,  retired  to  the 
garrison  at  Sonoma.  Lieut  Ford  displayed  the  most  perfect  cool- 
ness, judgement,  and  daring  bravery,  the  whole  party  with  two  or 
three  exceptions,  distinguished  themselves  for  bravery  and  discretion. 

From  the  second  paper,  dated  August  22,  1846 : 

EDITORIAL  ITEMS. 

Lieut.  McLane  of  the  ist  Dragoons  was  in  town  yesterday.  The 
company  has  just  returned  from  another  indian  excursion  to  the 
mountains.  The  Indians  are  beginning  to  find  who  has  the  country, 
they  have  divided  into  small  parties,  which  renders  it  next  to  im- 
possible for  a  company  to  find  them.    The  only  effectual  means  of 


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66  OUT    WEST 

Stopping  their  inroads  upon  the  property  of  the  country  will  be  to 
attack  them  in  their  villages  in  the  California  Mountains.  We  are 
in  hopes  that  at  least  a  division  of  that  company  will  be  sent  down 
the  Toolary  valley  and  to  cross  the  mountains  at  the  Bear  River 
pass  to  meet  the  emigration  on  the  loth  of  September  at  Trucky's 
lake.  Should  such  a  division  be  sent,  under  command  of  Mr. 
McLane,  his  suavity  of  manner  and  gentlemanly  deportment,  with 
his  knowledge  he  will  have  acquired  of  the  country  will  be  of  great 
service  to  the  emigrants  and  to  the  country. 

Fort  Stockton.  This  is  a  handsome  fortification  situated  at  the 
northwest  corner  of  this  town,  on  an  elevated  point  of  land,  so  sit- 
uated as  to  command  the  town  and  harbor,  on  the  S.  W.  corner  is  a 
strong  block  house,  with  three  42  pounders,  the  battery  extends  in 
an  angular  circle  from  N.  W.  to  N.  E.,  and  is  then  continued  to  south 
in  a  regular  circle,  so  that  with  the  block  house  the  whole  circle  is 
well  guarded.  The  intention  is  at  present  to  mount  ten  heavy  guns, 
and  so  arranged  that  they  may  be  moved  and  brought  to  bear  at 
any  point.  The  whole  will  be  surrounded  by  a  ditch  seven  feet 
deep.  The  position  and  plan  was  directed  by  Commodore  Stockton, 
and  is  now  under  the  direction  of  Capt.  Mervine.  Mr.  Cecil  con- 
structor. 

NEWS  FROM  BELOW. 

Officers,  soldiers  and  prisoners  have  been  arriving  here  all  the 
week  from  Castro's  camp. 

Capt  Goaquin  De  Le  Torre  came  in  on  Tuesday  from  whom  we 
have  gathered  all  the  information  we  have.  Mr.  Washburn,  an  Ameri- 
can, who  was  a  prisoner  only  confirms  the  main  facts  stated  by 
Torre,  being  confined  he  had  but  little  opportunity  of  learning  any 
of  their  plans. 

De  La  Torre  says,  that  when  Castro  learned  that  Capt.  Fremont 
had  reached  the  town  of  Los  Angeles,  about  12  hours  march  from 
him,  he  broke  camp  in  the  night  buried  his  cannon,  and  left  in  the 
direction  of  Sonora.  At  his  first  camp  from  Pueblo  he  gave  permis- 
sion to  as  many  as  chose  to  return  home,  the  whole  force  consisting 
of  about  200.  He  thinks  that  about  60  followed  Castro  and  Pico, 
but  Mr.  Washburn  says  he  understood  there  were  but  16,  officers 
and  soldiers,  they  kept  Mr.  Weaver  one  of  the  prisoners  with  them. 

Most  of  those  who  followed  the  Governor  were  persons  who  had 
committed  so  many  crimes  that  they  were  afraid  of  justice,  the  re- 
mainder have  most  of  them  returned  to  their  ranches. 

So  far  as  California  is  concerned  the  war  is  at  an  end.  The  next 
thing  is  to  take  steps  for  the  organization  of  a  Territorial  Govern- 
ment. 

Proposals,  for  carrying  a  mail  from  Monterey  to  Yerbabuno  there 
and  back  once  a  week  will  be  received  at  this  office  until  the  first 
day  of  September  as  follows  On  horseback,  leave  Monterey  on 
Saturday  morning  and  arrive  at  Yerbabuno  before  Tuesday  night, 
leave  Yerbabuno  on  Wednesday  morning  and  arrive  at  Monterey 
Before  Friday  night 

Compensation  paid  quarterly. 
Address  R.  Semple  Monterey. 


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THE    FIRST    CALIFORNIA    NEWSPAPER  67 

From  first  paper : 

In  our  next  number  we  shall  probably  commence  the  publication 
of  a  series  of  numbers  in  relation  to  those  sections  of  our  country 
which  are  unoccupied,  and  where  settlements  may  be  profitably  made 
agricultural  purposes,  in  connexion  with  convenient  water  power  for 
milling  purpose  and  their  respective  contiguity  to  navigable  waters, 
as  a  guide  to  strangers  arriving  in  the  country  with  a  view  of  set- 
tling. 
From  the  Califomian,  August  22,  1846: 

CALIFORNIA— No.  i. 

This  being  the  only  paper  published  in  California,  it  is  desirable 
that  it  should  not  only  be  interesting  for  its  news,  but  conducted 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  it  useful  as  a  history  of  the  country^ 
we  have  therefore  determined  to  publish  a  series  of  numbers  devoted 
to  that  subject,  in  which  will  be  embodied  the  state  of  the  country, 
public  opinion,  the  circumstances  which  lead  to  tbe  present  outbreak, 
and  principals  and  conduct  of  the  actors. 

The  population  of  California  is  estimated  at  about  10,000,  exclusive 
of  Indians,  and  probably  less  than  two  thousand  of  that  number 
are  foreigners,  most  of  these  originally  from  the  United  States. 
The  latter  was  rapidly  increasing  by  immigration,  while  the  natives 
were,  if  increasing  at  all,  but  slowly.  The  fact  became  evident  to  a 
few  men,  that,  under  the  present  state  of  things,  this  tide  of  foreign- 
ers, would  soon  fill  up  the  country  and  probably  change  the  very 
nature  of  their  institutions,  they  were  preparing  it;  but  before 
entering  upon  a  history  of  the  'measures  adopted,  we  shall  premise 
a  few  facts  in  relation  to  the  actors  on  the  part  of  the  Califomians. 

But  little  more  than  a  year  ago.  Gen.  Terano,  the  Governor  ap- 
pointed by  the  Government  of  Mexico,  was  in  power.  Don  .Jose 
Castro,  Alvcrado,  Pico  and  others  complained  of  the  oppressions 
of  the  governor,  and  accordingly  got  up  a  party  to  depose  him  ot 
Califomians  and  foreigners,  a  number  of  foreigners  also  on  the  side 
of  the  Governor.  Much  warlike  preparation  was  made  and  some 
long  marches,  but  without  a  battle,  or  at  least,  without  the  loss  of 
human  life,  it  finally  resulted  in  Pico's  assuming  the  station  of 
Governor,  and  Castro  commander  of  the  military,  the  situation  of 
both  Mexico  and  California,  can  not  be  better  described,  than  in 
the  following  paragraph  from  the  N.  Y.  Herald.  "The  stupidity 
and  weakness  of  the  people,  and  the  selfishness  and  tyranny  of 
their  military  officers  and  government  have  reduced  Mexico  to  the 
lowest  grade  of  degradation  and  infamy.  The  sun  never  shone  on  a 
more  beautiful  country  and  the  God  of  Nature  never  dispensed  his 
favors  to  a  greater  degree  than  he  has  on  this  now  unfortunate 
country. 

Yet  notwithstanding  these  natural  advantages,  Mexico,  from  cer- 
tain causes,  is  now  the  meanest  and  lowest  in  the  category  of  na- 
tions. Her  people  are  ruled  with  a  rod  of  iron,  and  are  sunk  in 
imbecility  and  infamy;  her  military  rulers  are  the  most  despotic  and 
mercenary  that  ever  exercised  power;  through  the  effects  of  suc- 
cessive revolutions,  all  confidence  in  government  is  gone.  There 
is  a  never  ending  struggle  by  a  set  of  designing  men,  to  attain  the 
management  of  the  national  affairs,  and  the  only  principal  that 
guides  them  is  self  agrandizement,  Such  is  the  condition  of  Mexico 


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68  OUT    WEST 

at  the  present  time,  and  such  it  has  been  for  a  number  of  years." 

In  this  state  of  things  Gen  Castro  issued  one  proclamation  after 
another,  ordering  the  foreigiiers  to  leave  the  country,  and  in  some 
instances  without  arms.  The  ^ople  well  knowing  the  character 
of  the  "Commandte"  still  remained  quiet,  but  at  last  the  decisive 
blow  was  struck,  which  forced  us  to  rally  and  defend  ourselves, 
or  run  for  the  mountains. 

WAR  NEWS   FROM   BELOW. 

U.  S.  Frigate  Congress  Commodore  Stockton  has  returned  from 
the  south.  They  took  the  town  of  Angeles  without  resistance.  Had 
Gen.  Castro  enfiladed  the  line  of  mardi  from  San  Pedro,  he  might 
have  made  the  forces  of  the  Congress  wade  through  their  own  blood, 
or,  had  he  remained  when  he  had  intrenched  himself,  there  would 
have  been  a  contest  that  must  have  been  decided  by  the  superior 
courage  of  the  victorious  party,  for  in  point  of  physical  force  Gen. 
Castro  had  the  advantage.  But  he  precipitately  broke  his  camp 
and  is  now  in  Sonora." 

The  result  is  as  conclusive  as  if  there  had  been  a  general  engage- 
ment and  many  lives  are  spared  that  must  have  been  sacrificed.  War 
is  a  calamity*  and  we  should  rejoice  in  every  circumstance  which 
mitigates  its  evils.  California  is  now  lost  forever  to  Mexico.  Not 
.  a  shadow  of  hope  can  remain  that  she  can  recover  a  foot  of  the 
Territory,  and  we  do  not  believe  that  one  inhabitant  in  ten,  really 
regrets  Uie  result 
From  the  Califomian,  August  29,  1846: 

California.  The  destiny  of  California  is  fixed.— She  is  to  be- 
come a  free  and  independent  state — a  member  of  the  North  Ameri- 
can Confederacy.  She  is  no  longer  to  be  subject  to  a  foreign 
arbitrary  power,  to  domestic  revolutions  or  military  rule.  She  is 
to  make  her  own  laws,  manage  her  own  resources,  and  found  those 
institutions  in  which  her  children  are  to  find  a  happy  home. 

California  has  hitherto  possessed  but  very  few  advantages  for 
developing  her  resources.  Her  lands  have  been  in  the  hands  of 
but  few  individuals  whose  enormous  grants  discouraged  emigration. 
These  lands  without  disturbing  legitimate  titles,  will  now  find  occu- 
pants. They  will  be  purchased  t^  a  thrifty  population,  trained  to 
habits  of  industry.  Golden  harvests  will  wave  over  hills  and  vallies, 
where  now  only  the  briar  and  bramble  are  seen,  and  where  the  howl 
of  the  wolf  is  heard,  the  gloomy  silence  of  the  wild  cascade  will  be 
broken  by  the  thunder  of  factories,  where  art  and  industry  will  roll 
out  upon  the  public  their  richest  products. 

Commerce  will  enliven  every  bay.  and  penetrate  into  the  gorges 
of  the  -i-tant  mountains. 

This  may  seem  too  flattering  a  picture,  but  it  is  no  more  than 
what  is  seen  and  felt  through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  United 
States. 

The  same  enterprize  and  prosperity  which  prevails  there  avail  this 
country.  The  same  spirit  which  has  made  the  farmer  and  mechanic 
wealthy  there  will  make  them  wealthy  here. 

The  s-me  spirit  that  has  carried  the  advantages  of  an  education 
to  every  child  there,  will  carry  the  advantages  to  every  child  here. 
The  same  -pirit  that  has  founded  asylums  there  for  the  infirm, 
the  deaf,  and  dumb,  the  blind,  the  houseless  widow  and  orphan, 
will  found  the  same  benificent  institutions  here. 

Such  is  the  destiny  of  California,  such  the  patrimony  which  the 
aged,  now  descending  to  their  graves,  bequeath  to  their  children. 
Who  would  dread  such  a  vista?    Who  bar  his  offspring  from  such 
a  heritage? 
When  Colton  wrote  the  foregoing  article  he  had  been  in  California  less 
than  three  months.    The  United  States  had  been  in  possession  only  since 
July  14,  and  possession  and  information  of  the  whole  territory  was  confined 
to  the  coast  hne.    San  Francisco,  Los  Angeles  and  nearly  all  the  prosperous 
cities  of  the  present  day  were  hardly  known.     The   gold   discovery   was   a 
year  and  a  half  in  the  future.    Oil  and  asphaltum  were  unknown.    The  fruits, 
grains   and   farm    possibilities    a    dream    only.    How    marvelously    true    his 
prophecy  has  been  realized. 

Piuadeaa,  Cai.  (To  be  continued.) 


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69 

THE  TIME  WE  CAME 

By  THERESA  RUSSELL 

NEVER  could  understand  the  philosophy  of  go- 
ing away/'  I  purred  pensively  to  Spottie,  char- 
itably engaged  in  washing  my  ears.  "Coming 
back  seems  a  great  deal  more  sensible  to  me." 
"Your  logic,  Mittens,  is  almost  human,"  re- 
torted Spottie.  "To  come  back  without  going 
away,  to  rest  without  getting  tired,  to  eat 
without  getting  an  appetite — ^you  seem  to  agree  with  Folks  that 
if  you  can  work  some  such  scheme  as  that,  you're  ahead  of  the 
game." 

"Yet  I  observe,"  I  commented  dryly,  "that  even  you  prefer  to 
bathe  without  getting  wet." 

Spottie  had  nothing  to  say  to  this,  so  he  said  nothing.  He 
always  was  queer.  "Spottie  Sententious"  Mother  Eve  calls  him. 
Then  she  laughs,  and  takes  me  in  her  arms  and  strokes  me  until 
I  feel  like  all  the  beatitudes. 

"But  It's  'Mittens  Melodious,'  isn't  it?  Spottie  ties  his  remarks 
up  into  nice  little  epigrams,  but  Mittens  is  an  example  of  Con- 
tinuity in  Expression,  aren't  you,  Mittie?" 

Then  she  will  fall  to  tweaking  my  ear.  Sometimes  when  she 
and  Spottie  both  get  an  ironical  streak  on  at  once,  it  makes  me 
feel  too  lonesome  to  live.  But  when  she  pinches  my  tail  or  pulls 
my  whiskers  and  says  things  I  can  understand,  I  am  too  happy 
to  die.  Spottie  says  it  is  a  mistake  to  be  so  intense,  and  that  I 
should  cultivate  nonchalance.  But  I  don't  like  nonchalance. 
It's  too  much  like  lemon-juice  in  the  milk.  It  makes  me  want  to 
go  away.    Oh,  yes,  that  is  what  I  started  out  to  tell. 

You  see,  we  began  life  at  Virginia  Camp,  and  would  have  been 
satisfied  tQ  end  it  there,  as  far  as  we  knew.  But  we  were  re- 
moved at  an  early  age,  without  consultation  or  consent.  Once 
domesticated,  however,  ranch  life  in  the  valley  seemed  at  least 
equal  to  mining  life  in  the  mountains,  and  I  should  not  go  back 
now  without  a  protest.  Mother  Eve  says  I  do  nothing  without 
a  protest.  But  why  should  I?  Protests  are  easy.  Even  if  you 
believe  in  Providence,  as  I  do,  there  is  no  reason  why  you  shoufd 
accept  or  forego  everything  with  meekness  and  passivity.  Provi- 
dence might  change  its  mind,  if  sufficiently  urged.  I  have  an 
idea  it  does.  Spottie  doesn't  think  so.  He  is  a  fatalist.  His 
lack  of  piety  is  a  great  grief  to  me.  There  is  something  so  sooth- 
ing about  pious  resignation,  with  that  hope  at  the  bottom  of  it 
that  it  may,  as  I  said,  change  its  mind,  after  all.  Of  course,  there 
are  some  kinds  of  doctrine  I  wouldn't  care  for.  I  heard  them 
talking  about  a  variety  that  had  a  Hades  mixed  up  in  it  somehow. 

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70  OUT    WEST 

I  didn't  get  the  details,  as  I  was  eating  my  supper  at  the  time  and 
couldn't  take  it  all  in — the  talk,  I  mean.  But  they  said  some- 
thing about  it's  being  a  dogma  (the  fact  that  it  was  any  rela- 
tion to  a  dog  would  settle  it  for  me)  that  flourished  in  the  tem- 
perate zone,  because  in  the  cold  countries  the  people  all  wanted 
to  go  there  as  soon  as  they  heard  of  it,  and  get  warmed  up,  and 
in  this  country  they  wanted  to  go  and  get  cooled  off. 

Folks  are  so  funny.  All  their  talk  seems  to  be  about  going 
somewhere.  There,  that  reminds  me  again.  Spottie  says  that 
starting,  with  me,  is  no  sign  of  arriving.  Well,  why  should  we 
arrive?  It's  just  as  good  where  we  are.  But  I  was  going  to  tell 
you  about  how  we  came.  Spottie  said,  concerning  the  journey, 
that  like  most  things  in  life,  it  wasn't  the  fact  so  much  as  the 
method,  that  distressed  him. 

"To  be  seized  and  put  into  a  box,  and  the  box  put  onto  a  burro 
and  jolted  down  a  ten-mile  hill  was  bad  enough ;  but  to  be  left 
in  that  narrow-minded  contrivance  all  night,  after  you  got  there, 
was  multiplying  iniquity  by  infamy." 

"And  yet  you  never  lifted  up  a  voice  nor  a  finger  to  get  out." 

"What's  the  use?  You  howled  enough  for  two,  if  there  were 
any  good  in  howling — which  there  is  not.  Lie  low  and  play  the 
game." 

"How  do  you  know  it  wasn't  my  howling  that  led  to  our  re- 
lease?" 

"If  you  had  listened/'  scornfully,  "instead  of  talking  so  riiuch. 
you  would  have  learned  why.  Tom  Boyle  asked  Lelia  if  she 
could  bring  us  on  over  that  night.  And  she  said  she  reckoned 
that  by  the  time  she  finished  arrigatin'  th'  garden  an'  got  the 
supper  an'  washed  th'  dishes  an'  toted  in  wood  an'  milked  th' 
cow  an'  sicked  th'  hogs  outen  th'  alfalfy,  it'ud  be  plumb  dark  an' 
time  to  turn  in.'  Then,  in  the  morning,  when  she  was  finally 
ready  she  was  held  back  by  the  boy. 

"  'What's  the  matter  with  him?'  Tom  asked. 

"  *Aw,  nothin','  she  said.  'He  ain't  never  seen  nobody  afore ; 
that's  all  that  ails  him.  When  Mrs.  Eve  comes  over  here  he  hides 
behind  me  an'  bellers  like  a  scared  calf.  An'  I  can't  git  him  to  go 
over  there,  noways.  Come  on,  now,  Jimmie.  Nobody's  goin'  to 
hurt  ye.' " 

"Yes,  I  remember,"  I  said.  "It  was  Jimmie  and  I  that  an- 
nounced the  procession  from  afar.  And  if  it  hadn't  been  for  me, 
no  doubt  Jimmie  would  have  been  given  all  the  attention." 

"The  more  the  better,  so  far  as  I  was  concerned,"  rejoined  the 
unamenable  Spot.  And  indeed,  his  arrival  was  no  more  gracious, 
if  more  calm,  than  my  own. 

"Oh,  good  morning,  Lelia,"  I  heard  a  voice  say.     "You've 


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THE    TIME    WE    CAME  71 

brought  my  kittens  over,  haven't  you?  Just  wait  till  I  turn  this 
loaf  out  of  the  Dutch  oven.  There !"  And  I  smelled  something 
awful  good.  "Now  let's  have  a  look  at  them.  Aren't  they  dear ! 
Studies  in  black  and  white." 

"It's  only  the  white  one  that  studies,"  said  another  voice.  "The 
black  one  is  too  busy  telling  you  how  he  feels  about  it." 

Then  they  let  us  out  The  first  thing  I  saw  was  a  big  brown 
dog.  i  put  my  back  up  in  a  way  that  should  have  intimidated 
any  bow-wow  that  ever  barked,  and  looked  to  Spottie  for  advice 
as  to  the  next  move.  But  Spottie,  where  was  he?  Nowhere  m 
sight,  alas,  and  I  was  left  to  face  the  world  alone — 2l  cruel 
world,  with  great,  red  jaws.  I  ran  frantically  all  around  the  tent, 
and  even  inside  of  it,  calling  for  Spottie,  calling  and  listening. 
At  last  I  heard  a  very  faint,  cautious  reply,  from  under  the  tent 
floor. 

**Always  remember,"  he  said,  when  I  had  finally  found  him, 
"that,  while  your  tongue  is  liable  to  get  you  into  trouble,  your 
feet  will  always  take  you  out.  That's  the  reason  they're  four 
to  one.  This  place  looks  suspicious  to  me,"  he  went  on.  "Per- 
haps well  conclude  not  to  stay." 

"How  are  you  going  to  help  yourself?"  I  quavered. 

"Help  yourself!"  he  sniffed.  "You'll  never  do  it  by  running 
about  and  making  a  big  noise.  That  only  helps  other  people  to 
locate  you.  Lie  low,  I  tell  you,  and  watch  your  chance.  Exer- 
cise your  head  first,  your  feet  next,  and  your  tongue  last  and 
least" 

"Kitty!  Kitty!"  came  a  pleading  voice  from  outside.  I  had 
never  heard  anything  like  it  before.  But  then,  aside  from  Lelia's, 
I  had  never  heard  any  voices  but  those  of  men,  burros  and 
coyotes.  This  didn't  sound  exactly  like  any  of  them.  I  thought 
perhaps  I  might  like  it,  when  I  got  used  to  it  Through  a  crack 
I  saw  a  saucer  of  milk  and  a  pair  of  eyes.  I  felt  sure  I  could 
trust  the  tytSy  they  were  so  near  the  color  of  Spottie's,  and,  with 
all  his  faults,  Spottie  was  not  one  to  lure  one  out  to  destruction. 
The  milk  also  looked  genuine — as  though  it  might  be  the  same 
brand  as  the  one  they  used  at  home.    It  was — the  "White  Rose." 

"Let's  try  it,"  I  whispered  longingly. 

"Et  dona  ferentes!"  warned  Spottie  again,  nudging  me  with 
his  elbow. 

"What  is  that?" 

"You  ignoramus  I  It's  short  for,  'Eat  doughnuts  and  fear  any 
teas.'  It  means,"  he  explained  condescendingly,  "that  if  they  are 
going  to  poison  you,  they  put  it  in  your  drink." 

"Well,  I'm  about  choked,"  I  said,  "and  I'd  rather  die  happy 
than  live  miserably.    If  it  don't  lay  me  out,  you  can  join  in." 


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72  OUT    WEST 

"Go  ahead,  then.    Every  cause  has  its  preface  of  martyrs/* 

I  crept  out  cautiously.  Everything  seemed  to  be  quiet  and 
absent.  The  milk  was  as  innocent  as  a  lamb.  Spottie  only 
waited  to  be  sure  it  was  safe,  and  then  pitched  in  and  drank 
so  fast  he  got  more  than  his  share  after  all. 

*lt's  never  necessary  to  be  in  at  the  start,"  he  admonished 
me,  complacently  polishing  off  his  chops,  "as  most  people  think. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  be  in  at  the  finish,  and  to  get  in  good  licks 
while  you're  at  it." 

After  breakfast  we  felt  better.  I  don't  know  why,  but  we  did. 
Life  looked  less  forlorn  and  the  place  less  dubious. 

*1  have  a  new  motto,"  said  Spottie,  amiably — for  him.  '*When 
in  doubt,  eat  breakfast.  Don't  think  I  should  like  to  live  with 
those  people  Fve  heard  of  who  have  adopted  a  no-breakfast 
slogan." 

"What  is  a  slogan?"  I  purred  sleepily. 

"It's  a  wind-bag  you  hit  the  other  fellow  with  and  knock  the 
arguments  out  of  him." 

"What  have  arguments  got  to  do  with  breakfast?" 

"Some  people  prefer  them — that's  all.  They  don't  know  any 
better.  But  the  breakfast  is  more  popular  in  this  country.  I 
remember  the  Colonel  one  time,  up  at  camp.  *Jes'  fancy,  now,' 
he  says,  *any  guy  gettin'  up  from  a  good,  fiUin'  breakfast,  an' 
committin'  suicide  or  gettin'  a  divorce,  or  writin*  a  piece  of 
poetry,  or  makin'  any  such  phenonenon  of  himself 

"  ^Reckon  you're  kerrect,'  says  Tom.  Them  deeds  is  mostly 
done  on  poor,  hollow,  defrauded  stomachs.' " 

But  no  sooner  had  we  begun  to  feel  comfortable  through  re- 
freshment than  we  began  to  feel  uncomfortable  through  tem* 
perature. 

"It  will  always  be  this  way,  I  suppose,"  I  grumbled. 

"Sure !"  said  Spottie.  "The  Colonel  says  life  is  a  procession  of 
annoyances." 

"Why,  look  at  the  poor  kittens!"  exclaimed  Mother  Eve. 
"Tongues  out  and  lolling  like  dogs !" 

"Take  them  down  to  the  river  bank,"  said  the  other  voice.  "It 
will  be  cooler  there." 

Accordingly  she  tucked  one  of  us  under  each  arm  and  carried 
us  across  a  stretch  of  hot  sand,  down  a  steep  bank,  and  then 
we  couldn't  go  any  farther  for  there  was  something  in  the  way. 
It  looked  like  water,  but  I  never  saw  water  in  any  such  shape 
before.  There  was  such  an  extraordinary  quantity  of  it,  more 
than  you  could  ever  drink  in  the  world,  and  I  don't  know  what 
else  it  is  good  for.  In  front  of  this  rushing,  foaming  business, 
was  a  funny-looking  piece  of  ground.     It  .was  smooth  and  dark 


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THE    TIME    WE    CAME  73 

colored  and  damp.  We  were  put  down  upon  it.  It  felt  queer, 
but  oh,  so  cool  and  good.  We  walked  about  carefully  at  first, 
lifting  our  paws  high  and  putting  them  down  softly,  for  you 
never  know  but  it  may  be  a  trap.  But  when  we  found  it 
wasn't,  we  lay  down,  and  rolled  over,  and  sprawled  every  way 
at  once,  and  couldn't  get  close  enough  to  it.  Then  Spottie  spied 
some  willow  trees  with  their  toes  dabbling  right  in  the  water, 
and  challenged  me  to  a  romp  in  the  branches,  and  we  began  to 
feel  like  ourselves  again. 

"How  easy  it  is  to  have  a  good  opinion  of  the  universe,  when 
you're  comfortable,"  purred  Spottie,  presently. 

"What  is  a  opinion?" 

"Well,"  he  said,  musingly,  "the  Colonel  was  saying  to  Tom 
that  it  was  'a  thing  which  if  you  own  it  yourself,  it's  sure  good 
and  can  be  recommended ;  but  which  if  it  belongs  to  some  other 
fellow,  it  must  have  been  manufactured  in  a  lunatic  shop.' " 

By  and  by  someone  called  Mother  Eve,  and  she  went  away. 
Spottie  stuck  serenely  to  his  post,  or  tree,  rather,  but  I  did 
not  like  being  left.  I  started  to  follow,  but  the  hot  sand  burned 
my  paws  like  coals  of  fire  and  the  bank  was  so  long  and  steep 
I  did  not  see  how  I  could  make  it. 

"O,  meouw !  meouw !"  I  cried.  "Whatever  shall  I  do?  To  stay 
is  to  perish  of  fright  and  lonesomeness ;  to  go  is  to  die  of  heat 
and  fatigue.    Oh,  what  shall  I  do!    What  shall  I  do?" 

"Shut  up  and  come  back  here,"  advised  the  unsympathetic 
Spot.  "Be  a  pessimist  in  your  heart,  if  you  must,  but  never  be 
one  out  loud.    It  doesn't  sound  well." 

"I  don't  care,"  I  cried.  "It's  going  to  be  dark  pretty  soon. 
You  can  stay  here  and  be  murdered  in  your  bed  and  go  without 
your  supper,  if  you  want  to,  but  I'm  going  to  find  the  way  out." 

So  I  left  Spottie  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  and  started  out 
bravely  and  alone.  Finally  I  reached  the  top  of  the  bank,  and 
there,  not  far  away,  was  a  gladsome  sight.  Between  the  spread- 
ing mesquite  tree  and  the  little  white  tent  was  a  crackling  fire. 
Over  the  blaze  Mother  Eve  was  bending,  raking  out  some  coals 
for  the  coffee-pot.  In  six  bounds  I  crossed  the  Sahara  that  di- 
vided us  and  never  stopped  bounding  until  I  was  perched  safely 
on  her  shoulder. 

"Well  the  dear  little  kittens !"  she  said.  "Found  his  way  all 
by  his  own  self,  didn't  he?  Now  let's  go  and  bring  the  other 
one. 

'That's  the  way  with  pioneers,"  remarked  Spottie,  languidly. 
"Impatience  and  haste  hoof  it  painfully ;  patience  and  poise  ride 
in  luxury." 

In  the  beautiful  twilight,  when  Spottie  and  I  were  frolicking 


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74  OUT    WEST 

upand  down  the  tent  frame  and  the  others  were  sitting  on  a 
pile  of  lumber  watching  us  and  wishing,  no  doubt,  that  they 
were  kittens,  I  heard  "Mother  Eve  exclaim :  "Why,  there  comes 
Tom  Boyle.    What  is  that  he  is  carrying?" 

"Ever  see  a  side-winder?"  he  asked,  as  he  came  up.  "Killed 
this  one  in  the  sage-brush  just  now." 

"What  kind  of  a  snake  is  a  side-winder?" 

"It's  a  rattler  that  travels  on  the  bias." 

"There  are  some  people  who  must  have  been  side-winders, 
then,  in  a  previous  incarnation." 

We  were  resting  up  on  the  ridge-pole. 

"What  is  an  incarnation?"  I  panted. 

"It  is  what  you  were  before  you  were  promoted  to  be  what  you 
are,"  said  Spottie. 

"And  what  was  I?" 

"Oh,  yes,"  we  heard  Mother  Eve  saying:  "They  have  very 
distinct  personalities.  I  can  see  that  already.  When  Mittens 
wants  anything  he  teases  for  it  until,  like  the  man  in  the  Bible, 
you  give  it  to  him  for  his  very  importunity.  Spottie  disdains 
to  ask,  but  simply  watches  his  chance  and  appropriates  it." 

"Or,  as  we  used  to  say  up  at  camp,  the  black  one  is  a  beggar 
and  the  white  one  is  a  thief." 

"In  that  case,  Mittens,"  continued  Spottie,  reflectively,  "I 
reckon  you  must  have  been  an  Organizer  of  Philanthropic  Asso- 
ciations.   And  I  ?   Oh,  I  was  just  a  plain  Captain  of  Industry." 

Chloride,  Arizona 


SUSURRO 

By  ARTHUR  B.  BENNETT 

^rtHE  rabbit  gets  his  cotton  tail  from  cotton  on  the  trees 
^^     That's  blown  to  him  on  purpose  by  the  sudden  summer 

breeze ; 
The  breeze  it  went  a-playing  with  a  ripple  on  the  lake 
Which,  wriggling  and  shimmering,  swam  off  a  pretty  snake. 
The  turtle  dove's  so  shy  a  one  he  hardly  ever  sings. 
So  breeze  he  does  it  for  him  by  a  whistle  in  his  wings : 
The  owl  is  such  a  slayer  he  should  be  slain  by  rights. 
So  mourns  by  day  the  wickedness  he  perpetrates  of  nights ; 
The  quail  he  is  a  saucy  one  and  tiot  afraid  to  shout, 
When  anyone  is  going  by,  "I  spy  a  man — look  out!" 
The  thousand  stars  are  in  the  grass  when  Winter  rain  is  kind, 
The  Spirit  brushes  each  of  them — the  Spirit  is  the  Wind. 
Hush !    List  the  Wind  a-going  up  atop  the  lofty  leaves, 
Because  they  saw  a  battle  once — because  the  Spirit  grieves ; 
Hush!  Watch,  my  little  warrior,  thine  eyes  thus  ever  bright! 
Grow  strong,  my  little  warrior,  for  hunting  and  the  fight! 

San  Dieffo,  Gal. 


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75 

MOUNTAIN   STREAM  CHARACTERISTICS 
or  SOUTHERN  CALIFORNIA 

By  J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT* 

HE  most  important  question  now  before  the  people  of 
Southern  California  is  the  water  problem.  At  the  pres- 
ent rate  of  growth  the  limit  of  the  present  water  supply 
of  Los  Angeles  is  in  sight.  If  a  sufficient  supply  can 
be  obtained,  it  now  seems  probable  that  at  no  distant 
day  almost  the  entire  coastal  plain  between  Los  Angeles 
and  Santa  Monica,  the  area  between  Pasadena  and  Los  Angeles, 
and  the  area  east  of  Pasadena  for  some  miles,  will  be  thickly 
inhabited.  It  will  become  the  American  Riviera.  The  limiting 
factor  will  largely  be  the  water  supply. 
This  city  and  vicinity  is  the  Mecca  of  an  ever-increasing  number 
of  people  who  wish  to  escape  the  rigors  and  dirt  of  an  Eastern  winter. 
There  are  many  other  factors  that  will  tend  to  increase  the  population  and 
importance  of  this  locality,  but  the  mild  climate  and  varied  topography  will 
always  be  the  greatest. 

While  we  can  but  hope  that  the  long  period  of  years  of  low  precipitation 
has  come  to  an  end,  we  should  not  forget  that  one  of  the  attractions,  and 
a  valuable  asset,  of  Southern  California  is  its  great  number  of  cloudless  days. 
The  average  seasonal  rainfall  at  Los  Angeles  for  the  21  years  ending  August, 
1893,  was  18.30  inches.  The  average  for  the  11  years  following  that  date, 
that  is,  from  September  i,  1893,  to  August  31,  1904,  was  11.26.  The  mean 
precipitation  for  the  entire  period  of  32  years,  durig  which  the  record  has 
been  kept,  is  15.88  inches.  The  seasons  of  greatest  precipitation  were  1883-84 
and  1889-90,  when  the  totals  were  38.26  inches  and  34.60  respectively.  There 
have  been  four  seasons  when  the  precipitation  was  approximately  one-third 
of  the  mean,  and  six  when  the  precipitation  was  about  two-thirds  of  the  mean. 
Considering  the  fact  that  the  mean  precipitation  was  more  than  18  inches 
up  to  1893,  it  is  not  surprising  that  engineers  at  that  time,  and  for  a  number 
of  years  after,  estimated  the  stream-flow,  or  run-off,  too  high. 

Anyone  who  has  made  a  study  of  a  diagram  showing  the  rainfall  at  Los 
Angeles  and  Santa  Barbara  cannot  but  be  impressed  with  the  great  fluctua- 
.  tion  in  the  precipitation.    Such  a  diagram  emphasizes  the  necessity  for  con- 
serving the  water  supply  in  years  of  abundance. 

The  water  supply  can  be  conserved  by  forestration  and  storage  of  flood 
waters  in  surface  and  underground  reservoirs. 

Much  money  has  been  spent  in  Southern  California  in  driving  water  devel- 
opment tunnels  (in  the  mountains).  As  a  means  of  obtaining  a  permanent 
supply  this  method  of  development  has  been  generally  disappointing.  The 
flow  from  the  tunnel  for  a  comparatively  short  period  of  time  is  greater 
than  the  natural  flow  of  the  spring  or  cienega.  This  increase  is  due  to  the 
rapid  drainage  of  the  water  stored  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks  or  gravels. 
In  order  to  keep  tip  the  supply,  the  tunnels  usually  were  extended.  Mani- 
festly this  cannot  be  a  permanent  remedy. 

An  improvement  on  this  method  was  recently  made  at  the  Santa  Barbara 
city  tunnel,  which  has  been  driven  in  a  stratified  sandstone  for  a  length  of 
5000  feet    A  water-tight  bulkhead  with  a  gate  was  placed  near  the  ttmnel 


^Snperrisiiiff  Engineer  Reclamation  Service,  U.  S.  Geological  Surrey;  paper  read  1>efore 
the  Water  Congreee  held  in  I«ob  Angeles,  March  15, 1906. 


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76  OUT    WBST 

portal,  the  gate  closed  during  the  rainy  season,  and  the  water  allowed  to 
accumulate  when  not  needed.  During  the  winter  of  1902-3  there  was  a  fair 
amount  of  rainfall  and  the  streams  were  capable  during  that  time  of  meeting 
the  demands  of  the  city.  As  soon  as  the  bulkhead  could  be  closed  this  was 
done — about  July  i,  1903.  Because  of  the  fissured  condition  of  the  rock  in 
the  tunnel  it  was  not  feasible,  at  the  point  where  the  bulkhead  was  first 
placed,  to  completely  close  the  supply  from  the  heading,  as  springs  occurred 
below  the  bulkhead  toward  the  portal,  flowing  in  considerable  volume.  How- 
ever, the  pressure  ran  up  to  49  pounds  to  the  square  inch  on  July  25th,  as 
indicated  by  the  pressure  gage  placed  in  the  discharge  pipe,  indicating  an 
accumulated  head  of  water  back  of  the  bulkhead  of  114  feet.  This  shows 
that  the  tunnel  was  developed  into  a  storage  reservoir.  The  gate  valve  in  the 
bulkhead  was  gradually  opened  as  the  season  progressed,  and  the  supply 
maintained  a  flow  of  from  24  to  33  miner's  inches  during  the  remainder  of 
the  summer.  On  October  17th,  when  the  valve  was  completely  opened 
and  the  pressure  had  been  reduced  to  zero,  the  flow  had  fallen  to  18  miner's 
inches.  This  was  sufficient  to  carry  the  city  through  the  summer  success- 
fully. 

During  the  summer  of  1904  a  new  bulkhead  was  placed  at  a  point  in  the 
tunnel  where  a  heavy  clay  seam  occurs  in  the  rock.  This  new  bulkhead  was 
more  effective  than  the  first  one  in  holding  back  the  water.  The  pressure 
on  the  gage  at  the  Santa  Barbara  tunnel,  March  i,  1905,  was  70  pounds  to 
the  square  inch,  representing  a  head  of  161  feet  on  the  bulkhead. 

Another  method  of  intercepting  the  ground  water  has  been  by  building 
submerged  dams.  Such  dams  have  been  constructed  on  the  Pacoiwa  Wash, 
the  Arroyo  Seco  and  Santiago  canon.  This  method  has  been  disappointing, 
as  the  velocity  of  underground  water  has  been  proven  very  slow,  usually 
not  over  15  feet  per  day  through  the  voids  of  sand  and  gravel.  A  method 
of  measuring  the  flow  of  underground  water  has  been  developed  by  the  Geo- 
logical Survey  by  Prof.  C.  S.  Slichter.  For  a  description  of  this  method, 
see  Water- Supply  and  Irrigation  Paper  No.  67. 

One  of  the  most  efficient  means  of  conserving  and  regulating  the  water 
supply  that  falls  on  the  mountains  is  by  forest-cover  The  great  importance 
of  preserving  and  extending  the  forested  area  cannot  be  too  strongly  empha- 
sized. The  fires  must  be  prevented,  for  in  this  region,  bordering  closely  on 
desert  conditions,  artificial  forestration  is  most  difficult  and  expensive. 

Mr.  James  W.  Toumey,  Collaborator  Bureau  of  Forestry  in  the  Agri- 
cultural Department,  selected  certain  small  and  adjoining  drainage  basins 
in  the  San  Bernardino  Mountains  in  a  portion  of  the  catchment  area  pro- 
posed to  be  utilized  by  the  Arrowhead  Reservoir  Company.  Throughout  this 
area  this  corporation  for  a  term  of  years  has  been  making  exhaustive  hydro- 
graphic  studies  of  the  available  water  supply.  A  large  number  of  rain 
gauges  have  been  established  and  stream  measurements  were  carefully  made 
over  weirs  by  skilled  engineers  in  the  employ  of  the  Arrowhead  Reservoir 
Co.  It  is  here  proposed  by  the  company  to  divert  the  water  flowing  from  a 
number  of  these  small  mountain  basins,  which  are  situated  on  the  northerly 
slope  of  the  San  Bernardino  Range,  by  means  of  gravity  canals  and  tunnels 
to  the  southern  side  of  the  range  and  into  the  San  Bernardino  Valley. 

The  Arrowhead  Reservoir  Compay  has  placed  its  hydrographic  data  at  the 
disposal  of  the  Bureau  of  Forestry,  which  organization  made  the  forest  study 
in  connection  therewith.  The  data  that  is  presented  by  Mr.  Toumey  is 
perhaps  the  most  precise  and  definite  information  on  the  subject  of  related 
stream-flow  to  forest-cover  that  we  have  so  far  been  favored  with  in  this 
country.    Its   conclusions,   while   they   were   to  be   expected,   are   gratifying 


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MOUNTAIN    STREAM    CHARACTBRISTICS         77 

in  their  definiteness.  We  can  do  no  better  than  to  quote  Mr.  Tourney  in 
extenso: 

"Because  rainfall  is  most  abundant  where  forests  grow,  many  believe  that 
forests  exert  an  important  influence  on  the  amount  of  preciiptation.  A  more 
reasonable  inference,  however,  is  that  rainfall  is  the  great  factor  in  controlling 
the  distribution  and  density  of  forests. 

"Whether  forests  have  any  appreciable  effect  in  cooling  the  air  to  or 
below  the  dew-point  is  uncertain.  From  the  known  effect  of  forests  on  the 
temperature  and  relative  humidity  of  the  air,  it  is  reasonable  to  infer  that 
ihey  may  have  some  such  effect,  at  least  to  a  small  degree,  and  consequently 
that  they  have  some  influence  in  increasing  precipitation.  The  present  evi- 
dence, however,  derived  from  many  series  of  observations  conducted  in 
Europe  and  elsewhere,  is  so  conflicting  that  a  definite  answer  to  this  ques- 
tion, having  the  stamp  of  scientific  accuracy,  is  not  possible. 

"In  a  careful  study  of  the  behavior  of  the  stream-flow  on  several  small 
catchment  areas  in  the  San  Bernardino  Mountains,  it  has  been  found  that 
the  effect  of  the  forest  in  decreasing  surface  (flood)  flow  on  small  catch- 
ment basins  is  enormous,  as  shown  in  the  following  tables,  where  three 
well-timbered  areas  are  compared  with  a  non-timbered  one: 

PRECIPITATION   AND  EUN-OFP  DX7RING  DECEMBER,    1899. 

Area  of  Condition  Run-off      Run-off  in 

catchment  as  to  Precipi-       per  square    percentage  of 

basin.  cover.  tation.  mile.         precipitation. 


SQ.  MILES. 

a7o 

Forested 

105 

Forested 

1-47 

Forested 

.^.•53    . 

Non-forested 

INCHES. 

ACRE  FEET. 

PERCENT. 

19+ 

36- 

3 

i<>+ 

73+ 

6 

!<>+ 

70- 

6 

13— 

.       313+ 

40      ^ 

"This  is  the  stream  discharge  during  a  month  of  unusually  heavy  precipi- 
tation. 

"At  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season,  in  early  December,  the  soil  on  all 
four  of  these  basins  was  very  dry  as  a  result  of  the  long  dry  seasons.  The 
accumulation  of  litter,  duff,  humus  and  soil  on  the  forest-covered  catchment 
areas  absorbed  95  per  cent  of  the  unusually  large  precipitation.  On  the  non- 
forested  area  only  60  per  cent  of  the  precipitation  was  absorbed,  although 
the  rainfall  was  much  less. 

RAINPALL    AND    RUN-OFF    DURING    JANUARY,    FEBRUARY    AND    MARCH,     I9OO. 


Area  of 

Condition 

Run-off 

Run-off  in 

catchment 

as  to 

Precipi- 

per square 

percentage  of 

basin. 

cover. 

tation. 

mile. 

precipitation. 

sg.  MILES. 

INCHES. 

ACRE  FEET. 

PERCENT. 

0.70 

Forested 

M 

452+ 

35 

ix)5 

Forested 

34 

428+ 

33 

M7 
.53 

Forested 
Non-forested 

^ 

a 

43 

95 

"The  most  striking  feature  of  this  table  as  compared  with  the  previous 
one  is  the  uniformly  large  run-off  as  compared  with  the  rainfall.  This 
clearly  shows  the  enormous  amount  of  water  taken  up  by  a  dry  soil,  either 
forested  or  non-forested^  as  compared  with  one  already  nearly  filled  to  sat- 
uration. During  the  three  months  here  noted,  on  the  forested  basins  about 
three-eighths  of  the  rainfall  appeared  in  the  run-off,  while  on  the  non- 
foresfed  area  nineteen-twentieths  appeared  in  the  run-off. 

RAPIDITY  OF  DECREASE  IN  RUN-OFF  AFTER  THE  CLOSE  OF  THE  RAINY   SEASON. 


Area  of 
catchment 
basin. 

Condition 
as  to 
cover. 

Precipi- 
tation. 

April  run- 
off per 
sq.  mile. 

sg.  MILES. 

a70 

1.05 

iA7 

.53 

Forested 
Forested 
Forested 
Non-forested 

INCHES. 

1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
I. 

ACRE-FEET. 

'56+ 

May  run- 

June run- 

off per 

off  per 

sq.  mile. 

sq.  mile. 

ACRE-FEET. 

ACRE-FEET. 

66- 

25— 

70+ 

30- 

74+ 

30+ 

2— 

0 

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78  OUT    WEST 

'The  above  table  clearly  shows  the  importance  of  forests  in  sustaining 
the  flow  of  mountain  streams.  The  three  forested  catchment  areas  which, 
during  December,  experienced  a  run-oflF  of  but  5  per  cent  of  the  heavy  pre- 
cipitation for  that  month,  and  which  during  January  and  March  of  the 
following  year  had  a  run-off  of  approximately  37  per  cent  of  the  total  pre- 
cipitation, experienced  a  well  sustained  stream  flow  three  months  after 
the  close  of  the  rainy  season.  The  non-forested  catchment  areas  which, 
during  December,  experienced  a  run-off  of  40  per  cent  of  the  rainfall,  and 
which  during  the  three  following  months  had  a  run-off  of  95  per  cent  of  the 
precipitation,  experienced  a  run-off  in  April  (per  square  mile)  of  less  than 
one-third  of  that  from  the  forested  catchment  areas,  and  in  June  the  flow 
from  the  non-forested  area  had  ceased  altogether." 

ANNUAL   RAINFALL   AND   RUN-OFF   ON    FORESTED   AND    NON-FORESTED    CATCHMENT 
AREAS   IN   THE   SAN   BERNARDINO   MOUNTAINS. 


Area  of 

Condition 

catchment 
basin. 

as  to 
cover. 

SQ.  MILES. 

0.70 

1.05 

1.47 

.53 

Forested 
Forested 
Forested 
Non-forested 

Run-off 

Run-off  in 

Precipi- 

per square 
mile. 

percentage  of 

tation. 

precipitation. 

INCHES. 

ACRE  FEET. 

PER  CENT. 

46 

731 

28 

46 

756 

30 

46 

904 

^ 

33 

1 192 

69 

In  conclusion  it  may  be  stated  that  while  there  is  little  definite  scientific 
information  that  forests  increase  rainfall,  we  have  certain  striking  instances 
represented  where  the  rainfall  is  greater  on  adjacent  forested  areas  than 
on  those  that  are  denuded.  At  least  in  the  arid  regions  it  may  be  stated 
tiiat  the  total  annual  output  from  a  de-forested  drainage  basin  is  greater 
than  from  a  timbered  area,  but  that  the  regimen  of  the  stream  is  distinctly 
to  the  disadvantage  of  all  who  are  interested  in  the  use  of  the  watered 
resources  of  the  country,  whether  they  be  domestic  water  supply  engineers, 
irrigators,  or  water-power  investors.  From  the  denuded  area  the  floods  are 
greater  and  the  drought  is  more  intense.  To  remedy  this  condition  one 
naturally  turns  to  the  storage  reservoir  for  relief,  yet  even  in  this  extremity 
one  is  confronted  with  adverse  conditions.  The  violent  flood  from  the  bare 
basin  rushing  through  the  mountains  carries  with  it  eroded  sediment  which 
it  deposits  in  the  first  pool  of  still  water  that  it  encounters.  The  result  is 
the  reduction  of  the  storage  capacity  of  the  reservoirs  along  its  course.  For- 
ests are  the  natural  and  greatest  storage  reservoirs  and  regulators  of  water 
supply.  On  few  streams  do  we  find  reservoir  capacities  even  approximating 
the  total  annual  output  of  the  drainage  basins  above  them.  The  evaporation 
from  storage  reservoirs  is  usually  great,  often  equalling  20  per  cent  of  their 
capacity  annually.  Accepting  the  facts  as  outlined  above,  the  great  import- 
ance of  preserving  the  forests,  particularly  in  the  semi-arid  regions  of  our 
country,  is  most  manifest.  In  Southern  California,  Arizona  and  New  Mex- 
ico, particularly,  we  are  so  closely  bordering  on  a  condition  of  desert  that 
when  the  forest  is  once  destroyed  the  difficulty  of  reproducing  it  renders 
the  task  well  nigh  hopeless.  We  should  therefore  all  job  with  the  Bureau 
of  Forestry  in  its  effort  to  save  the  forests  and  thus  store  the  flood. 

The  mountains  and  foothills  of  Southern  California  are  usually  so  pre- 
cipitous that  there  are  few  unused  reservoir  sites  where  the  storage  capacity 
is  sufficient  to  justify  the  expenditure  of  money  necessary  to  construct  the 
impounding  works.  The  capacity  of  the  sites  that  exist  is  relative  small. 
In  some  instances  the  water  supply  is  insufficient  to  fill  the  storage  basins. 
Reservoir  sites  are  more  numerous  in  San  Diego  and  Santa  Barbara  counties. 

The  history  of  the  principal  reservoirs  that  have  been  constructed  in  South- 
ern California  is  too  well  known  to  be  given  here.  I  will  mention  briefly 
some  reservoir  sites  that,  on  account  of  the  great  value  of  water,  are  worthy 
of  consideration. 

One  of  these  is  located  on  the  San  Luis  Rey  river.  The  area  of  the  water- 
shed above  the  dam  site  is  210  square  miles,  all  to  the  east  of  the  main 
crest  of  the  coast  range.  The  estimated  capacity  of  this  reservoir  is  193,200 
acre-feet  on  the  100-foot  flow  line.  If  this  reservoir  had  been  constructed, 
it  would  probably  have  been  dry,  or  nearly  so.  for  a  number  of  years  past. 
The   Escondido  Irrigation  District  has  the  prior  right  on  this  stream.    A 


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MOUNTAIN    STREAM    CHARACTERISTICS         79 

gauging  station  has  recently  been  established  on  the  San  Luis  Rey  river  near 
Pala  that  will  determine  approximately  the  amount  available  for  filling  the 
Warner  Ranch  reservoir.  The  gauging  station  is  located  below  the  intake 
of  the  Escondido  Irrigation  District. 

The  Arrowhead  Reservoir  Company  has  been  making  a  careful  study  of 
the  available  water  supply  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Mojave  river  since 
1892.  The  plan  of  this  company  contemplates  the  storage  of  the  run-off 
fiom  78  square  miles  of  mountain  water-shed,  which  has  an  elevation  of  5,000 
feet  or  over.  The  principal  reservoir  site  is  located  at  Little  Bear  Valley. 
The  construction  of  the  dam  at  this  point  is  now  under  way.  The  capacity 
of  this  site  at  160  feet  above  the  stream  bed  is  60,179  acre-feet. 

Two  other  reservoirs  are  contemplated,  one  at  Grass  Valley,  with  a  ca- 
pacity of  27,547  acre-feet,  and  another  at  Huston  Flat,  with  a  capacity  of 
24,753  acre-feet  The  plan  contemplates  the  diversion  of  the  water  from 
these  reservoirs  into  the  San  Bernardino  Valley.  The  tunnels  on  the  diver- 
sion line  have  been  completed.  The  stream  measurements  made  by  the 
.Arrowhead  company  have  not  been  given  to  the  public  While  they  have 
been  disappointing,  they  are  said  to  justify  the  construction  of  the  main 
reservoir. 

Another  site  is  located  on  the  Mojave  river,  in  San  Bernardino  county,  just 
above  the  town  of  Victorville,  Cal.  The  main  line  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka 
k  Santa  Fe  Railway  passes  through  the  reservoir  and  through  the  gorge  at 
the  dam  site  Before  this  reservoir  could  be  utilized  55^  miles  of  new  track 
would  have  to  be  built.  This  is  without  doubt  the  most  capacious  reservoir 
site  in  Southern  California.  The  capacity  has  been  estimated  at  390,000 
acre- feet  at  a  point  145  feet  above  the  stream  bed.  The  Geological  Survey 
established  a  gauging  station  at  this  point  on  February  27,  1899.  The  aver- 
age flow  from  1900  to  190^,  inclusive,  has  been  62,948  acre-feet.  The  under- 
flow has  been  determined  by  the  Geological  Survey  to  be  about  one  second- 
foot 

DISCHARGES  OF  MOJAVE  RIVER  AT  VICTORVILLE,  CAL. 
YEAR  ACRE-FEET 

1900     32,204 

1901      103,820 

1902     36,756 

1903     107,842 

1904    34.121 

Mean    62,948 

A  reservoir  site  exists  on  La  Caliada  above  its  junction  with  the  Arroyo 
Scco,  Los  Angeles  county.  This  site  has  a  capacity  of  3200  acre-feet  at  the 
QO-foot  ik>w  line.  The  drainage  area  tributary  to  the  site  is  27.6  square  miles. 
Some  water  could  be  obtained  by  diverting  the  flood  flow  of  the  Arroyo 
Seco,  but  these  waters  are  now  nearly  absorbed  by  the  gravel  be^s  above 
Devil's  Gate  and  are  then  collected  by  the  city  of  Pasadena.  In  wet  years 
this  reservoir  might  be  filled  and  its  water  us€d  to  supplement  existing 
supplies  for  Pasadena,  and  thus  be  used  to  conserve  the  water  stored  in  the 
gravel  beds  and  save  on  pumping  bills. 

Reservoir  sites  of  considerable  value  exist  on  Triumfo  and  Malibu  creeks. 
The  water  from  these  reservoirs  could  be  used  to  partly  supply  the  lower 
foothill  lands  from  Hollywood  to  Santa  Monica,  by  a  gravity  system  of 
conduits. 

The  drainage  area  above  Reservoir  No.  i  is  68  square  miles  of  low  mount- 
ains. The  rainfall  has  not  been  measured.  To  meet  drought  conditions  the 
reservoir  capacity  should  be  large  enough  to  hold  a  three  years*  supply  so 
as  to  hold  over  from  years  of  plenty  to  years  of  drought.  The  flood  waters 
from  these  streams  waste  into  the  ocean  west  of  Santa  Monica.  A  gauging 
station  has  been  established  by  the  Geological  Survey  to  measure  the  stream 
discharge.  A  dam  100  feet  high  would  be  about  20  feet  long  at  base  and 
150  feet  on  top,  and  it  is  roughly  estimated  would  hold  21,000  acre-feet 
of  water.  This  is  an  unusual  dam  and  reservoir  site  for  Southern  California. 
It  is  reported  that  a  dam  is  now  being  built  near  the  head  of  this  stream 
to  store  flood  water  for  local  irrigation. 

Reservoir  No.  2  would  command  the  same  canal  line  as  No.  i.  The  drainage 
area  above  this  site  is  37  square  miles  of  similar  country  as  that  above  No.  i. 
A  gauging  station  has  also  been  located  upon  this  creek.  The  dam  should 
be  built  so  as  to  hold  a  three  years'  supply.    These  flood  waters  now  waste 


Digitized  by 


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80  OUT    WEST 

into  the  Pacific.  A  dam  140  feet  high  would  be  about  50  feet  long  at  base  and 
450  feet  long  on  top,  and  have  a  capacity  roughly  estimated  at  9000  acre- 
feet,  or  416  miner's  inches,  for  six  months'  flow. 

There  are  two  reservoir  sites  on  Piru  Creek  in  Ventura  county.  This 
creek  is  a  tributary  of  the  Santa  Clara  River  Its  summer  flow  is  diverted 
for  irrigation  in  the  Piru  cation  and  near  Piru  City.  The  impounded  flood 
water  could  be  conveyed  down  the  Santa  Clara  Valley.  A  large  amount  of 
flood  water  runs  to  waste  frcMn  this  water-shed.  One  site,  known  as  the  Piru 
reservoir,  is  located  at  the  junction  of  Rays  and  Lockwood  Creek.  A  dam 
140  feet  high  would  furnish  a  capacity  of  13,160  acre- feet.  The  other  reser- 
voir is  located  at  Lockwood  Valley,  on  Lockwood  Creek.  A  dam  125  feet 
high  would  give  a  capacity  of  14,857  acre-feet.  The  drainage  areas  tribu- 
tary to  these  cites  are  139  and  55  square  miles,  respectively.  The  drainage 
area  is  all  above  4,000  feet  elevation,  and  a  portion  of  it  is  over  5,400  feet. 
The  precipitation  in  the  Piru  basins  was  about  75  per  cent  of  that  in  the  San 
Gabriel.  The  flow  of  Piru  Creek  occurs  largely  in  flood  waves.  In  mid- 
summer it  is  but  a  few  inches,  and  during  the  winter  season  floods  of  6,000 
second-feet  have  been  measured  at  the  Piru  dam  sites.  Because  of  dry  years 
these  sites  should  be  so  managed  as  to  hold  over  water  from  wet  years. 
Measurements  of  stream  flow  have  been  made  by  the  Antelope  Valley 
Water  Co. 

There  are  five  reservoir  sites  located  in  the  Santa  Ynez  drainage  basin  that 
have  been  surveyed  and  their  capacities  determined.  These  are  the  Juncal, 
drainage  area  13  square  miles,  capacity  at  100- foot  flow  line,  3,222  acre- feet; 
Main  River,  drainage  area  71  square  miles»  capacity  of  65-foot'  dam,  4,023  acre- 
feet;  Mono  reservoir  site,  drainage  area  119  square  miles,  total  capacity  at  100- 
foot  flow  line,  8,763  acre-feet;  Quicksilver  Mine  Reservoir  site,  capacity  at  90- 
foot  flow  line,  10.577  acre-feet;  Gibraltar  reservoir  site,  6  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  Mono  Creek  on  the  Santa  Ynez  River,  drainage  area  20^  square 
miles,  capacity  at  140-foot  flow  line,  15,793  acre-feet  This  site  is  below 
all  the  others.  The  discharge  of  the  Santa  Ynez  River  is  in  floods,  as  in 
the  case  of  other  Southern  California  streams.  It  is  estimated  that  owing 
to  prospective  drought  conditions  provision  for  a  19  months'  supply  should 
be  made.  The  stream  flow  has  been  measured  now  for  three  seasons  and 
clearly  indicates  that  on  this  basis  the  full  capacity  of  at  least  the  Gibraltar 
site  could  be  safely  used,  yielding  a  continuous  flow  of  650  miner's  inches 
on  the  above  assumption.  This  would  supply  the  city  and  leave  500  inches 
of  water  for  irrigation.  The  water  will  have  to  be  conveyed  in  a  tunnel 
four  miles  long  under  the  coast  range.  This  tunnel  is  now  being  built  by 
the  city  of  Santa  Barbara  and  the  reservoir  site  has  been  purchased. 

The  following  measurements  of  discharge  have  been  made: 

1902-03  21,200  acre-feet 

1903-04  4,194  acre-feet 

1904-05  57»i27  acre-feet 

For  particulars  in  regard  to  the  reservoir  sites  mentioned  above,  see 
Water-Supply  and  Irrigation  Paper  No.  116. 

In  April  and  May,  1903,  a  series  of  measurements  were  made  by  the 
U.  S.  Geological  Survey  to  determine  the  amount  of  storm  water  absorbed 
in  the  sand  and  gravel  washes  of  the  larger  tributary  streams  of  the  three 
principal  river  basins  of  Southern  California — the  Santa  Ana,  San  Gabriel 
and  Los  Angeles  rivers.  Measurements  were  taken  at  the  mouths  of  the 
cafions  where  the  streams  leave  the  mountains,  at  all  canal  diversions,  and 
at  such  intervals  along  the  streams  as  time  and  the  available  force  detailed 
for  this  work  would  allow,  the  location  of  the  point  where  the  stream  en- 
tirely disappeared  or  left  the  valley  being  noted  in  all  cases. 

STORM    WATER  DISCHARGED  FROM   TRIBUTARY   STREAMS   AND   SINKING  IN   THE  LOS 
ANGELES  RIVER  BASIN  ABOVE  BURBA  NK,  CAL. 

(Discharge  for  24  hours.)        ACRE-FEET. 


STREAM.                                                                               DIVERSIONS.  WASTE.  TOTAL. 

April  18,  1903. 

Big  Tujunga   3"  3" 

Little  Tujunga 54  54 

Pacoima  ...  194  *94 

Total 559  559 

Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


MOUNTAIN    STREAM    CHARACTERISTICS 


81 


STREAM. 

May  5,  1903. 

Big  Tujunga 

Little  Tujunga 

Pacoima 


DIVERSIONS. 


Total 


June  4,  1903. 

Big  Tujunga 

Little  Tujunga    

Pacoima 


WASTE.        TOTAI,. 


'I 

129 


73 

8 

j8 

139 


18 

24 

I 

I 

10 

16 

Total 


12 


29 


41 


STORM   WATER  DISCHARGED  FROM   TRIBUTARY  STREAMS  AND  SINKING  IN  THE  SAN 
GABRIEL  BASIN  ABOVE  EL  MONTE,  CALIFORNIA. 

(Discharge  for  24  hours.) 

ACRE-FEET.  Passing 
El  Monte. 

ACRE-FEET. 


STREAM.  DIVERSION. 

April  26,  1903. 

San  Gabriel   79 

San  Dimas  

Dalton   

Santa  Anita  

Eaton  Canon   


Total 


79 


WASTE. 

38 
18 

79 

57 

757 


TOTAL. 

644 
38 
18 

79 

57 

I36 


454 


454 


May  2Z,  1903. 

San  Gabriel   139 

San  Dimas  i 

Dalton    2 

Santa  Anita  6 

Eaton  Cafion  6 

Total    154 


92 

331 

4 

5 

3 

5 

20 

26 

6 

12 

225 


379 


STORM    WATER    DISCHARGED    FROM    TRIBUTARY    STREAMS    AND    SINKING    INTO    THE 
SANTA  ANA  RIVER  BASIN  ABOVE  COLTON,  CALIFORNIA. 

(Discharge  for  24  hours.) 
April  24,  1903.  ACRE-FEET. 


STREAM. 


DIVERSIONS. 


Santa  Ana   32 

Mill  Creek  10 

Plunge  Creek   

City  Creek  

East  Twin  Creek  .• 

West  Twin  Creek 

Lytic  Creek   

ToUl    56 

May  16,  1903. 

Santa  Ana   93 

Mill  Creek  97 

Plunge  Creek   12 

City  Creek   14 

East  Twin  Creek  4 

West  Twin  Creek  4 

Lytle  Creek   30 


WASTE. 

230 

67 

46 

44 

20 

17 
III 

535 


% 

6 
8 
6 

4 
28 


Total 


254 


185 


TOTAU 

262 

77 

46 

44 

20 

17 

125 

591 


188 

22 

10 

8 
_J8 

439 


Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


82  OUT    WEST 


These  gravel  beds  are  the  natural  and  most  available  storage  reservoirs 
in  Southern  California. 

There  is  a  demand  for  all  water  that  can  be  developed  or  conveyed  to 
Southern  California.  Our  arid  lands  are  far  in  excess  of  our  water  supply. 
I  believe  that  we  have  now  over-developed  the  underground  supplies.  Prac- 
tically all  the  unused  storage  reservoirs  of  value  in  Southern  California  have 
been  mentioned  above.  They  are  all  urgently  needed  to  meet  local  demands 
and  practically  all  will  be  built.  While  I  cannot  here  present  the  details  of 
a  plan  to  meet  this  situation  in  and  around  the  city  of  Los  Angeles,  I  feel 
safe  in  saying  that  it  can  and  will  be  properly  met,  and  though  the  cost  will 
be  high,  it  can  be  made  a  paying  business  proposition.  We  should  rather 
obtain  and  control  a  new  supply  than  take  by  condemnation  neighboring 
waters  now  required  and  used. 

Lo8  Anffeles 


THE  PROMISE  OF  THE  SIERRAS 

By  D.  S.  RICHARDSON 

k  ^%  HEN  I  am  dead,  and  on  my  breast 
yfr     The  friendly  clods  are  lightly  pressed, 
Then  shall  I  sink  from  sight  of  men 
And  be  as  one  who  has  not  been. 
E'en  those  who  wept  will  cease  to  weep, 
And  I  shall  sleep  the  long,  sweet  sleep 
Forgotten  and  forgetting  all — 
My  lot  the  common  lot — my  pall 
The  voiceless  dark  that  all  must  know. 
Nor  do  I  grieve  that  this  is  so. 
Yet,  from  the  snow-clad  peaks  above — 
Whose  every  wrinkled  front  I  love — 
A  whisper  comes ;  bend  low  thine  ear, 
My  wondering  heart,  and  thou  shalt  hear : 

Because  he  loved  us,  we  will  be 
The  guardians  of  his  memory; 
Because  he  loved  the  river's  song, 
The  laughing  brooks  that  leap  along 
Shall  sing  more  softly  as  they  pass 
His  resting  place  beneath  the  grass. 
Because  he  loved  us,  Hoovers  shall  bloom 
More  sweetly  on  his  nameless  tomb; 
And  on  his  heart  the  sod  shall  lie 
More  gently  as  the  years  go  by. 
There  is  no  death;  love  paid  the  debt; 
Tho'  moons  may  wane  and  m£n  forget, 
The  mountain's  heart  beats  on  for  aye; 
Who  truly  loved  us  can  not  die. 

And  so  I  wait — nor  fear  the  tide 
That  comes  so  swiftly  on  to  hide 
My  little  light.    The  mountains  glow; 
I  have  their  promise,  and  I  know. 

San  Francisco,  Cal. 


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83 


Through  all  the  years  of  my  work  at  his  side,  the  Lion's  accus- 
tomed attitude  towards  vacations  has  been  one  of  somewhat 
scoffing  tolerance.  They  were  well  enough  for  people  who 
had  nothing  better  to  do;  but  as  for  himself,  when  he  wanted 
real  recreation,  he  put  aside,  gently  but  firmly,  the  allurements 
of  even  the  most  enticing  ancient  Spanish  tome,  selected  the 
proper  weapons  from  his  tool-chest,  and  fell  to  work  upon  his 
serial  stone  wall.  It  appears  at  last  that  the  charms  of  serial 
stone  walls  may  also  stale.  For,  lo,  these  many  days  the  soul  of 
the  Lion  has  been  athirst  for  cool  canons — for  sparkling  trout- 
pools — for  the  breath  of  the  pine,  and  the  silences,  and  the  star- 
glitter  from  an  unsmoked  sky.  Wherefore  the  Lion  has  gone 
a-fishing — ^and,  following  an  illustrious  example,  has  left  his 
Secretary  of  State  sitting  on  the  lid. 

Pending  his  return — when  he  will  doubtless  speak  for  himself 
in  those  familiar  tones  which  leave  no  doubt  as  to  his  meaning 
—it  may  be  said  that  his  acceptance  of  the  vacant  position  in  the 
Lx)s  Angeles  Public  Library  will  in  no  wise  interfere  with  his 
efficiency  upon  this  magazine,  nor  in  any  one  of  the  many  un- 
dertakings in  the  public  behalf  upon  which  he  is  engaged.  He 
yielded  to  the  urgent  insistence  that  it  was  his  civic  duty  to 
serve  the  community  he  loves  so  well,  in  this  capacity  for  which  he  is 
so  peculiarly  adapted,  only  after  the  most  careful  consideration  of  all 
his  other,  and  prior,  duties.  He  sees  how,  by  better  systematization 
of  his  own  work  at  some  points,  by  more  assistants  at  others,  and 
by  an  added  sacrifice  of  the  things  he  would  like  to  do  on  the 
altar  of  the  things  that  need  doing,  he  can  help  along  the  causes 
nearest  to  his  heart  even  better  than  before.  And  he  believes 
that,  good  as  the  Los  Angeles  Public  Library  has  been,  he  can 
help  to  make  it  better. 

Therefore,  it  is  safe  to  say,  every  lover  of  the  Den  will  will- 
ingly excuse  its  occupant  for  once  from  his  accustomed  "stunt" — 
and  will  wish  him  the  best  of  fisbino^  and  of  all  the  other  good 
things  that  go  with  it. 

Chari^ics  Amadon  Moody. 


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84 

THE  SOUTHWEST  SOQETY 

Archsological  Institute  of  America. 

Prtsidtuit  J.  S.  SLAuaoH. 
Vlce-PresldenU:  Gea.  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  Editor  I4OS  Angeles  Times;  Fredk.  H.  Rlndff*. 
Prest.  ConserratiTe  Life  Ins.  Co.;  Geo.  F.  BoTard,  Prest  U.  ef  S.  C;  Dr.  Norman  Bridge. 
SecreUry.Chas.  F.  Lummis.  Bxecntire  Committee,  Major  B.  W.  Jones, 

Treasurer.  W.  C.  Pattenwn,  Prest.  Los  An-  ^»«»  ^J*^  f /^f  •  ^~'-  {'  ^'  f'^^l' 

ireles  National  Bank.  f  "^'^  ^^^J^^'*^^^  ^  t'^^l   Z 

Lnn^ren,  Chas.  F.  Lnmmls,  Dr.  F.  M. 
Recorder  and  Curator,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer.  Palmer,  Theodore  B.  Comstock. 

ADVISOKY  COUMCIIr: 

Ttae  foreffolnff  officers  and 
H.  W.  O'MeWeuy,  Los  Anseles.  Geo.  W.  Marston,  San  DleffO. 

Lonis  A.  Dreyfus,  Santa  Bart»ara.  John  G.  North,  Rireraide. 

Chas.  Cassatt  Daris,  Los  Angeles.  B.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel. 

Charles  Amadou  Moody,  Los  Angeles.  Rt.  Rer.  Thos.  J.  Conaty,  Los  Anceles. 

Walter  R.  Bacon,  Los  Angeles.  Rt.  Rer.  Joseph  H.  Johnson,      ^ 

Dr.  J.  H.  McBride,  Pasadena.  Dr.  John  T.  Martindale,  ** 

*HoifORARY  LiFB  Mbmbbrb  :  Hon.  Theodore  Rooserelt,  Washington ;  Chas.  Bliot 
Nortod.  LL.  D.,  Cambrid^re,  Mass. 

Life  Members:  Prof.  C.C.  Brag-don,  Pres.  Lasell  Seminary,  Aubumdale,  Mass.;  Rer. 
Juan  Caballeria,  Plaxa  Church,  Los  Angeles.  Cal.;  Chas.  Deering-,  3645  Sheridan  Road, 
Bvanston,  111.;  Mrs.  Bra  S.  F^nyes,  251  S.  Orange  Grore  Atsu,  Pasadena,  Cal.;  Miss  Mira 
Herahey,  350  S.  Grand  Are.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  Major  B.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel,  Cal; 
Homer  Lang-hlin,  Laughlin  Bldg*..  Los  Angeles,  CaL;  Los  Angeles  State  Normal  School, 
Los  Antreles,  Cal.  (Gift  of  Senior  A.  Class,  1904);  B.  P.  Ripley,  Pres.  A.  T.  A  S.  F.  R.  R., 
Chicago,  111.;  St.  Vincent's  Colleg-e,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  SanU  Clara  College,  SanU  Clara, 
Cal.;  James  Slauson,  Bradbury  Bldg.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  O.  S.  A.  Sprague,  Pauadena 
Cal.;  J.  Downey  Harrey.  San  Francisco,  Cal.;  John  A.  McCall,  Prest.  N.  T.  Life  Ins.  Co.; 
Mrs.  Bleauor  Martin,  San  Francisco:  Bdwin  T.  £^1,  Los  Angeles;  Wm.  Keith,  San 
Francisco;  Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Hart,  Los  Angeles;  W.  P.  Wesselhoeft,  M.  D.,  Boston. 

KBPRB8BNTATIVBS  IN  TBB  COUZfCIL  OF  THB  A.  I.  A. 

Theo.  B.  Comstock  F.  M.  Palmer  F.  H.  Rindge 

Mary  Bn  Foy  Chas.  F.  Lummis  C  B.  Rumsey 

J.  S.  Slauson,  ex-officio  Mrs.  W.  H.  Honsh 

*By  their  consent,  and  subscribed  by  the  Southwest  Society. 


JHE  Latin  of  it  has  long  been  the  motto  of  an  American  com- 
monwealth, but  the  plain  English  "It  Grows  as  it  Goes" 
seems  good  enough  legend  for  the  Southwest  Society.  It  fits 
not  only  in  theory  but  in  practice.  The  Society  truly  grows  as  it 
goes — and  it  goes  as  it  g^ows.  It  is  steadily  doing  things  worthy  to 
be  done,  and  is  constantly  swelling  its  ranks  with  the  kind  of  people 
who  logically  belong  in  such  a  movement  to  do  the  right  things  in 
the  right  way. 

In  quantity,  the  membership  is  certainly  to  be  proud  of.  At  this 
writing  it  has  296 ;  by  the  times  these  lines  are  read,  it  will  consid- 
erably exceed  that  figure.  Before  the  first  of  July  it  will,  no  doubt, 
round  out  to  300 — and  it  has  no  notion  of  stopping  for  a  minute  even 
at  that  notch.  In  fact,  by  the  time  that  all  who  really  ought  to  be 
identified  with  such  an  undertaking  realize  just  what  is  doing,  we 
might  almost  follow  the  proverbial  advice  to  "roof  the  place,  and 
make  it  unanimous."  But  the  quality  of  this  membership  is  no  less 
notable  than  the  unprecedented  numerical  growth.  Among  the  lat- 
est accessions  are  the  two  first  honorary  life  members  of  the  So- 


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THB  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A.  I.  A.  85 

dety,  Hon.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  LL.  D.,  President  of  the  United 
States,  and  Chas.  Eliot  Norton,  LL.  D.,  of  Harvard,  the  foremost 
art  critic  in  America,  friend  and  literary  executor  of  Ruskin,  and  the 
founder  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America.  The  Southwest 
Society  has  always  been  "good  company,"  but  it  is  *'fast  getting  no 
worse."  As  to  its  membership,  it  will  do  no  harm  to  remark  again 
that  only  four  other  societies  among  the  15  of  the  Institute  have  as 
many  members,  today,  as  the  Southwest  Society  has  gained  since 
March  ist,  1905,  and  only  two  have  as  many  as  this  Society  has 
gained  in  six  months. 

It  is  a  foregone  conclusion  that  there  will  very  soon  be  a  special 
organization  among  and  of  the  women's  clubs  of  the  Southwest  for 
the  purpose  of  building  a  noble  art  gallery  in  conjunction  with  the 
Southwest  Museum.  This  was  officially  voted,  June  21st,  by  the 
convention  of  delegates  from  the  leading  women's  clubs.  Plans  are 
formulating  as  rapidly  as  can  be  in  a  case  where  the  thing  must  be 
done  right  if  done  at  all.  Enthusiasm  and  ''business  sense"  are  alike 
becoming  epidemic  among  the  women;  and  the  art  gallery  will  be 
carried  out  in  the  way  that  is  obviously  best — that  is,  under  the  high- 
est auspices  and  up  to  the  strictest  standards.  In  the  way  of  prelim- 
inary encouragement  the  Art  Gallery  plan  has  already  been  very 
fortunate.  Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Hart  (who  has  just  become  a  life 
member  of  the  Southwest  Society)  has  donated  $1,000,  and  pledged 
paintings  of  far  greater  value ;  and  several  other  women  have  prom- 
ised liberal  support.  The  Southwest  Museum  will,  in  any  event, 
include  a  great  art  gallery ;  and  unless  all  signs  fail,  it  will  be  built 
as  an  enduring  monument  by  and  to  the  women's  clubs  of  the  South- 
west. 

Meantime  the  Southwest  Society  is  pursuing  its  policy  of  Doing 
Things.  Its  archaeological  researches  and  exploration  under  Dr. 
Pahner's  expert  direction  are  going  forward;  and  other  large  and 
immediate  enterprises  which  cannot  yet  be  detailed  are  in  active  pro- 
cess of  realization. 

Mr.  Farwell,  the  leading  expert  who  worked  for  four  months  last 
year  on  the  folk-songs  the  Society  had  gathered,  will  return  this 
month  to  complete  his  task.  Not  that  he  will  be  able  to  finish  all  the 
songs  the  Society  will  have  gathered,  but  enough,  at  least,  to  make 
ready  for  publication  the  largest,  the  most  exact,  and  the  most  im- 
portant volume  of  folk-songs  ever  issued  anywhere. 

A  minor  detail,  but  not  unimportant,  is  the  beginning  of  a  collec- 
tion of  California  Indian  baskets  for  the  Southwest  Museum — and 
for  this  a  small  but  precious  nucleus  has  already  been  made.  Through 
the  Sequoya  League,  which  is  marketing  the  baskets  of  the  Mission 
Indians  of  Southern  California,  the  opportunity  oflfers  to  preserve 
the  most  typical  for  the  benefit  of  the  public,  present  and  future ;  and 


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by  the  generosity  of  Mrs.  Eva  S.  Fenyes,  Miss  Thomas,  Mrs.  Hut- 
chinson, Miss  Foy  and  Mr.  McFarland,  the  basket  collection  of  the 
Southwest  Museum  has  made  a  material  and  important  beginning. 

Even  as  these  pages  are  printed  the  Southwest  Society  has 
welcomed  the  President  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America, 
Prof.  Thos.  D.  Seymour,  L.L.D.,  of  Yale  University,  one  of  the 
ripest  of  American  scholars,  and  one  to  whom  this  new  Western 
affiliation  of  the  severest  scientific  body  in  America  owes  much. 

Dr.  Seymour  lectured  before  the  Society  June  26th,  on  *'Excava- 
tions  in  Greek  Lands,"  with  lantern  slides  showing  the  rich  archi- 
tectural discoveries  made  by  scientists  of  France  and  of  our  Amer- 
ican Institute  by  excavations  on  the  Acropolis  of  Athens,  at  Cor- 
inth and  Delphi.  A  select  and  interested  audience  followed  the 
lecture  intently.  Gen.  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  first  vice-president  of 
the  Southwest  Society,  presides.  The  secretary  reported  a  contin- 
uance of  the  astonishing  growth  of  the  Society,  which  at  that  date 
numbered  303  members. 

Since  the  last  number  the  following  new  members  have  been  added  to  the 
roster : 

Honorary  Life: — Hon.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Washington,  D.  C. ;  Charles 
Eliot  Norton,  LL.  D.,  Harvard  University. 

Life :— Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Hart,  Los  Angeles ;  Wm.  P.  Wesselhoeft,  M.  D., 
Boston,  Mass. 


Annual : — 

Callaghan  Byrne. 

Mrs.  G.  W.  Jordan,  Vice-Prest.  Cos- 
mos Club. 

Hon.  M.  T.  Allen,  Judge  Dist.  Court 
of  Appeals. 

Mrs.  J.  S.  Chapman. 

Mrs.  D.  M.  Riordan. 

John  M.  Radabaugh,  M.  D.,  Pasa- 
dena. 

Rev.  Benj.  Fay  Mills,  Prest.  Venice 
Assembly. 

John  Muir,  Martinez,  Cal. 

Mrs.  John  Muir,  Martinez,  Cal. 

Mrs.  Adelaide  Tichenor,  Prest.  Long 
Beach  Ebell. 

Don  Arturo  Bandini,  Pasadena. 


Alfred  H.  Wilcox. 

Rev.  Robert  Mclntyre,  D.  D. 

A.  L.  Stetson. 

Prof.  Geo.  R  Hale,  Observatory  Sta- 
tion, Pasadena. 

Sophia  M.  Baker,  La  Solana. 

Charlotte  E.  Thomas. 

J.  W.  A.  OflF,  Cashier  State  Bank  & 
Trust  Co. 

Rev.  Maxwell  Savage,  Redlands,  Cal. 

Chas.  Putnam,  Redlands,  Cal. 

C.  J.  Willett,  Esq.,  Pasadena. 

Henry  M.  Greene. 

Chas.  Sumner  Greene. 

All  of  Los  Angeles  except  as  other- 
wise noted. 


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FOUNDBO  1895  OFFICBR8 

President,  Chas.  P.  Lnmmis. 
Vice-President,  Margaret  Collier  Graham. 
Secretary,  Arthur  B.  Benton,  1 14  N.  Sprinff  St. 
Treasurer.  J.  G.  Mossin,  California  Bank. 
Corresponding  Secretary,  Mm.  M.  £.  Stilson, 
812  Kensinffton  Road. 


DIKBCTOK8 

J.  G.  Mossin. 
Henry  W.  0*MelTeny. 
Sumner  P.  Hunt. 
Arthur  B.  Benton. 
Margaret  Collier  Graham. 
Chas.  P.  Lummis. 


Chairman  Membership  Committee,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Mossin,  1033  Santee  St. 


Art  HERE  is  a  deep  revival  of  interest  in  the  work  and  aims  of 
^[  the  Landmarks  Club,  which  has  been  quietly  but  steadily  toil- 
ing for  ten  years  in  preservation  of  the  old  Missions  and 
other  landmarks.  The  Club  has  by  no  means  gone  to  sleep;  and 
now,  having  paid  off  a  heavy  indebtedness  incurred  by  the  expensive 
repairs  at  Pala,  it  will  make  an  active  campaign  this  summer  to 
gather  fresh  funds  and  apply  them  to  best  advantage. 

On  the  30th  of  May  the  Board  of  Trade  of  San  Fernando  enter- 
tained an  exairsion  of  about  175  invited  guests  in  the  most  hospit- 
able Western  fashion.  A  bountiful  lunch  was  spread  in  the  cloister 
of  the  old  monastery,  and  the  guests  were  taken  about  to  see  the 
sights  of  that  uncommonly  beautiful  valley. 

One  of  the  most  encouraging  features  of  this  pleasant  occasion 
was  the  development  of  local  interest  in,  and  the  responsibility  to- 
ward, the  old  Mission.  Hitherto,  the  lack  of  this  has  been  the  most 
serious  obstacle.  The  Landmarks  Club  has  spent  nearly  $3,000  on 
the  San  Fernando  Mission;  but  there  has  been  no  one  on  the  spot 
to  care  for  it,  and  to  keep  away  the  fools  that  dig  for  treasure,  and 
other  vandals.  The  newspaper  report  of  vandalism  there  have  been 
grossly  exaggerated;  but  in  this  country,  unfortunately,  no  such 
monument  is  safe  from  our  common  irreverence  unless  directly 
watdied.  The  organization  of  the  Fernando  Board  of  Trade  puts 
a  different  face  on  the  matter;  and  this  responsible  body,  acting  in 

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conjunction  with  the  Landmarks  Club,  and  backed  by  the  public 
spirit  of  the  community,  will  do  all  possible  in  protecting  a  monu- 
ment which  before  many  years  will  be  one  of  the  chief  assets  of  the 
valley. 

It  is  also  encouraging  to  know  that  the  San  Fernando  people  are 
beginning  to  move  for  the  restoration  of  the  town's  proper  historic 
name — which  has  been  stupidly  robbed,  by  official  vandals,  of  the 
original  "San." 

Probably  the  largest  crowd  that  ever  visited  a  Southern  California 
Mission  enjoyed  the  7th  of  June  at  the  Mission  of  San  Juan  Capis- 
trano.  It  was  an  excursion  of  the  Knights  of  Columbus  who  had 
come  across  the  continent  for  their  national  convention;  and  there 
were  present  over  3,000  people.  For  one  who  has  had  much  exper- 
ience in  these  cases — and  much  of  it  sorry — it  is  a  pleasure  to  testify 
that  he  has  never  seen  quite  so  respectable  an  excursion  in  such  a 
place.  There  was  not  a  single  act  of  vandalism  or  disrespect ;  and 
the  day  was  worthy  of  the  memories  of  this  beautiful  old  pioneer  out- 
post of  civilization,  and  a  credit  to  the  order  whose  ethics  bring  about 
such  admirable  manners.  The  excursion  also  did  much  to  spread 
and  extend  public  interest  in  the  Missions  and  in  the  work  of  the 
Landmarks  Club  for  their  preservation. 

When  the  Biennial  of  the  Federated  Woman's  Clubs  of  the  United 
States  was  held  in  this  city,  three  years  ago,  the  work  of  the  Land- 
marks Club  was  presented  to  that  national  gathering,  and  the  seed 
seems  to  have  fallen  on  good  ground.  In  Wisconsin,  for  instance, 
there  has  been  much  activity  for  the  preservation  of  landmarks ;  and 
it  has  been  fostered  by  the  women  who  received  on  their  California 
journey  the  hint  and  the  inspiration. 

There  is  a  vast  amount  of  work  crying  to  be  done  on  the  Southern 
California  Missions.  No  one  else  will  do  it.  The  Landmarks  Club 
will.  It  has  a  long  lease  on  three  Missions.  The  first  requisite  to 
the  work  is  funds;  and  all  persons  are  requested  by  these  presents 
to  help  the  cause. 

Membership  is  $1.00  a  year;  life  membership  $25.00.  A  hand- 
somely illustrated  pamphlet,  showing  something  of  the  actual  work 
of  the  Club,  will  be  sent  free  on  request. 

Receipts  for  the  Work. 
Previously  acknowledged,  $7,644.18. 
New  contributions — Roy  B.  Stephens,  Pasadena,  $3. 

$1   each— Mrs.   F.   F.  Browne,  Pasadena;  J.  E.  Havcrstick,  Philadelphia; 
Norma  L.  Seelye,  Winchester,  Mass. ;  H.  C.  Barbize,  Santa  Ana,  Cal. 


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89 


Kedwooas  oj  Laltjomta. 

NATIONAL   BXBCUTIVB  COmilTTBB.  LOS  ANGBLBS  COUNCIL. 

David SimiT  Jordmn,  President  Stanlbrd  Unlvenlty  PRBST..  Rt.  Rer.  J.  H.  Johnson 

Geo  Biid  Grinnell.  Ed.  "Forest  and  Stream."  N.  Y.  BXBCUTIVB  COMMITTBB 

Chas.  Cwwf  Davis.  Los  Angeles  Wayland  H .  Smith  (Sec.  of  the  Council) 

C  Hart  Merriam.  Chief  Biofofical  Survey.  Washington  Miss  Cora  Foy 

D.  M.  RJordan.  Ijm  Angeles  Miss  Mary  B.  Warren 

RIcbaid  Egan,  Capistrano.  Cal.  Miss  Katherine  Kurtz,  Secretary 

Chas.  F.  Lummis,  Chairman  Chas.  F.  LummU,  Chairman 

ADVISORY  BOARD. 

Dr.  T.  Mitchell  Pnidden.  Col.  Phys.  and  Surg'ns.  N.  Y. 


•Dr.  Geo.  J.  Engdlmann,  Boston. 

Miss  AUce  C.  FleCcher.  Washington. 

F.  W.  Hodge.  Smithsonian  Instttution.  Washington. 

Hamlin  Gtflajid.  author.  Chicago. 


Mis.  F.  N.  Doubleday.  New  York. 
Dr.  Washington  Matthews.  Wr  * 


Hon.  A.  K.  Smiley.  (Mohonk).  Redlands.  Cal. 
George  Kannaa,  Washington. 

LlVB  MBHBBRS. 
AmaHa  B.  HoUeaback.  Josephine  W.  Diesel.  Thos.  Scattergood,  Miss  Mira  Hershey.  Mrs.  D.  A.  Senter.  Herbert  E. 
Hundngtoa.  Miss  Antoinette  E.  Gazzam.  J.  M.  C.  Marble.  Joieph  Fels.  Mrs.  Mary  Fels. 

A^HE  Los  Angeles  Council  of  the  Sequoya  League  has  rounded 
^[  out  its  first  year,  and  celebrated  a  birthday  by  holding  its 
first  annual  meeting  on  Tuesday,  June  13th.  Rt.  Rev.  Jos. 
H.  Johnson,  President  of  the  Council,  presided,  and  there  was  a 
goodly  attendance  of  warmly  interested  members  and  friends.  Way- 
land  H.  Smith,  Secretary  of  the  Council,  read  the  secretary's  and 
treasurer's  reports,  and  related  something  of  the  work  done  during 
the  year.  Addresses  were  made  also  by  Bishop  Johnson  and  Mrs. 
M.  N.  Greenleaf,  besides  remarks  by  Chas.  F.  Lummis,  Chairman 
of  the  National  Executive  Committee.  The  officers  were  unanimously 
re-elected  for  another  year,  and  the  work  goes  forward  with  deep 
interest  and  with  strong  encouragement. 

The  Council  has,  in  fact,  every  reason  to  be  proud  of  its  first  year's 
accomplishment.  It  has  stirred  up  the  Department  to  assist  the 
Campo  Indians,  whose  pleas  for  help  had  hitherto  gone  unheeded ; 
and  the  Council  itself  has  expended  a  large  sum  in  supplementing 
the  inadequate  government  aid.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the 
Council  has  kept  150  Indians  from  going  cold  and  hungry  this  year 
— and  has  saved  a  good  many  of  them  from  literal  death  by  starva- 
tion. It  has  not  only  fed  them,  and  given  them  bedding,  and  clothed 
them,  but  has  supplied  them  with  all  their  seed  for  planting  their 
poor  little  fields;  has  maintained  and  encouraged  their  only  native 
handicraft,  the  making  of  baskets;  and,  as  those  who  best  know 
the  circumstances  are  free  to  say,  has  given  them  an  entirely  new 
feeling  and  bearing.  A  year  ago  they  were  hungry,  ill-clad,  and 
without  hope ;  today  they  are  well  fed,  well  clothed,  and  as  comfora- 


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able  as  they  can  be  temporarily — that  is,  until  the  government  shall 
give  them  decent  lands  upon  which,  by  industry  and  economy,  they 
can  avoid  starvation.  And  besides  having  provided  this  liberal 
temporal  relief,  the  League  has  taken  up,  with  Congress  and  the 
Department,  the  matter  of  the  permanent  remedy — that  is,  the  pro- 
viding respectable  lands.  It  will  push  this  matter  to  a  finish,  no 
matter  how  long  it  takes. 

The  need  of  some  such  organized  machinery  to  carry  out  the  pub- 
lic desire  for  justice  toward  these  Indians,  and  to  assist  the  distant 
routine  of  the  Department,  is  evidenced  every  day.  For  a  little  ex- 
ample; last  month  the  government  matron  at  Campo,  Miss  Robin- 
son, and  her  assistant  (the  fine  young  Indian  woman.  Miss  Lach- 
apa),  were  notified  by  the  Department  that  there  would  be  no  money 
for  their  salaries  further,  "the  appropriation  being  exhausted."  If 
they  wished  to  work  for  nothing  for  a  month,  the  pay  would  prob- 
ably be  resumed  thereafter. 

The  League  is  not  here  to  pay  government  salaries,  nor  to  provide 
positions;  but  on  the  other  hand  it  does  not  wish  the  Indians  left 
without  the  ministration  which  has  been  of  very  vital  benefit  to 
them — these  two  ladies  and  Miss  Rosalia  Nejo  conducting  success- 
fully the  little  school  and  visiting  and  caring  for  and  teaching  and  as- 
sisting families.  Nor  does  the  League  exactly  look  to  see  these  de- 
voted women  "work  for  nothing  and  board  themselves.'*  It  is  un- 
derstood that  a  good  many  teachers  in  the  Indian  Service  have  re- 
ceived similar  notification.  It  is  a  very  safe  hazard,  however,  that 
no  clerk  in  the  Indian  Bureau  is  going  without  his  salary  for  the 
month.  So  the  League  has  sent  down  $60  to  tide  Miss  Robinson 
and  Miss  Lachapa  over.  Miss  Nejo  was  not  concerned  by  this  dry- 
ing up  of  government  funds,  for  she  is  anyhow  supported  from  pri- 
vate sources — ^the  League,  among  others,  contributing  $10  a  month 
regularly  for  her  unselfish  wants. 

One  of  the  most  vital  details  in  the  matter  of  these  Southern  Cal- 
ifornia reservations  is  protection  from  the  stock  of  white  neighbors. 
A  rich  cattle  company  cannot  be  expected  to  fence  its  acres  and 
keep  its  cattle  in.  Unless  the  Indian  can  fence  his  garden  and  his 
fields,  they  are  devoured  in  a  night,  and  he  has  no  redress.  The  De- 
partment has  long  recognized  this  state  of  aflfairs,  and  in  a  lukewarm 
manner  has  aided  the  Indian  to  fence.  After  20  years,  however,  the 
fencing  is  ludicrously  inadequate.  The  League  recently  sent  down 
a  check  to  pay  for  barbed  wire  to  complete  fencing  on  an  Indian  res- 
ervation for  which  the  government  had  "no  funds."  It  is  believed 
that  with  the  growing  pressure  of  intelligent  public  opinion,  or- 
ganized and  focussed  as  it  is  by  the  League,  and  under  the  competent 
administration  of  Commissioner  Leupp,  this  long  serial  story  of  de- 
pressing failure  will  work  out  to  a  better  ending. 


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The  League  has  also  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  District  At- 
torney of  San  Diego  County  an  abuse  by  a  deputy  assessor  who  has 
been  collecting  the  $2  poll  tax  from  some  of  these  Campo  Indians. 
This  procedure  was,  of  course,  illegal ;  and  was  also  rather  more  than 
absurd — considering  that  San  Diego  as  well  as  Los  Angeles  has 
been  for  nearly  a  year  contributing  generously  to  keep  these  same 
Indians  from  hunger.  District  Attorney  Cassius  M.  Carter  has 
called  the  attention  of  the  Assessor  to  this  abuse,  and  it  may  be  ex- 
pected to  end.  It  is  also  to  be  expected  that  the  money  will  be  re- 
funded to  the  Indians. 

The  Council  is  still  marketing  all  the  baskets  that  the  five  Campo 
reservations  can  produce,  and  is  succeeding  admirably  in  its  instruc- 
tions to  them  to  abandon  the  new  patterns  and  dyes  and  to  use  only 
the  honest  old  methods. 

The  Ponus  Council,  at  Stamford,  Connecticut,  is  pursuing  its  ac- 
tivities successfully ;  and  recently  turned  into  the  treasury  of  the  Na- 
tional League,  $115.47,  in  aid  of  the  National  work. 

Funds  for  the  Work. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $1,281.00. 

$2.00  each  (membership)— Miss  Ruth  Wolfskill,  Prof.  J.  A.  Foshay,  Wm. 
H.  Avery,  Chas.  C.  Carpenter.  Theo.  B.  Comstock,  E.  E.  Bostwick,  J.  V. 
Vickcrs,  F.  J.  Ganahl,  Prof.  R.  H.  Tripp,  Mrs.  Jacob  Baruch,  Mrs.  R.  H.  F. 
Variel,  Maj.  E.  F.  C.  Klokke,  all  of  Los  Angeles ;  Mrs.  Frederic  C.  Williams, 
Forestville,  Conn. ;  U.  S.  Senator  Geo.  C.  Perkins,  San  Francisco ;  Col.  A.  H. 
Sellers,  Chicago. 

Campo  Relief  Fund. 

Previously  acknowledged  $1,261.00. 

New  contributions— Miss  Ruth  Wolfskill,  $18;  E.  E.  Bostwick,  $3;  Clara 
E.  Capen,  $2 — all  of  Los  Angeles. 


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wasn't.  Though  his  banner  waves  today  at 
the  head  of  the  most  radical  wing  of  the  Socialistic  forces,  he  remains  a 
rampant  Individualist  in  thought  and  expression.  The  proof?  It  is  glar- 
ingly evident  in  everything  he  writes — nowhere  more  conspicuously  than  in 
the  passionately  eloquent  and  outspoken  essays  which  he  styles  War  of  the 
Classes.  Take,  for  example,  the  closing  essay,  "How  I  Became  a  Socialist," 
and,  from  that,  the  oath  which  he  swore  unto  himself  and  from  which  he 
dates  his  "conversion  to  Socialism."    The  italics  are  his  own. 

All  my  days  I  have  worked  hard  with  my  body,  and  according  to 
the  number  of  days  I  have  worked,  by  just  that  much  am  I  nearer  the 
bottom  of  the  Pit,    I  shall  climb  out  of  that  Pit,  but  not  by  the 
muscles  of  my  body  shall  I  climb  out.    I  shall  do  no  more  hard 
tvork,  and  may  God  strike  me  dead  if  I  do  another  day's  hard  work 
with  my  body  more  than  I  absolutely  have  to  do. 
I   am  moved  to  wonder  who  will   find  inspiration  to  any   lofty  deed   in 
that  oath ;  what  kind  of  an  army  would  enlist  for  such  a  rallying-cry ;  what 
sort  of  social  order  would  arise  upon  such  foundation.    The  truly  socialistic 
socialist    would    state    his    resolution    quite    otherwise — something    like    this, 
perhaps : 

All  my  days  shall  I  work  hard,  with  mind  and  body,  according  to 
my  strength,  for  the  common  weal.    I  shall  ask  for  myself  no  ma- 
terial benefit  which  is  not  equally  accessible  to  every  brother  and 
sister.    I  shall  make  lozHng  service  to  the  full  measure  of  my  power 
the  ideal  of  my  life,  and  shall  teach  and  preach  and  strive  for  that 
ideal  only.    And  may  God  strike  me  dead  if  I  ever  try  to  escape 
from  my  full  share  of  the  hard  work  that  must  be  done. 
This  may  seem  to  the  London  school  of  socialists  mere  foolishness.    But 
it  will  make  more  converts,  and  better  converts,  than  the  standard  of  life 
which  they  avow.     The  Macmillan  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50  net. 

THE  LUTE  Sturmsee  is  frankly  offered  by  its  author,  with  apologies  for  its 

OF  shortcomings,  as  an  effort  to  give   some   indication  of  "what  the 

ISRAFEL  Philosophy  of  Evolution  has,  as  yet,  to  say  regarding  'the  whole 
duty  of  man',"  in  his  social  and  economic  relations,  and  "to  attract  the  non- 
philosophical  reader  by  a  coating  of  fiction.  Personally,  I  prefer  my  serious 
discussions  of  these  questions  "straight,"  instead  of  sweetened  and  diluted; 
but  each  to  his  taste.  No  further  hint  of  the  author's  identity  is  given 
than  that  he  is  the  author  of  Calmire.  A  description  of  a  young  gentleman 
whistling  may  be  quoted  as  evidence  that  even  economics  and  sociology 
do  not  necessarily  clip  a  wing  which  is  predestined  to  soar. 

If  you  know  that  song   ("Good  Night,  Farewell"),  pass  the  first 


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phrase  over  in  your  mind,  and  try  to  imagine  the  sustained  notes 
expressed  by  a  high  clarinet  with  a  French  hom*s  richness  of  tone, 
though  of  course  a  diflferent  pitch,  and  a  violincello's  mysterious  at- 
tendant vibrations,  all  rendered  with  thrilling  fervor,  and  you  may 
get  some  cold  notion  of  the  marvelous  instrument  with  which  Glen- 
dale  was  playing  upon  the  emotions  of  his  friends.  He  went  through 
the  beautiful  song,  making  each  lovely  modulation  a  delight,  and 
each  intense  surge  of  feeling  almost  a  pain;  and  when  he  had  fin- 
ished, not  a  person  there,  not  even  his  cousin  who  had  heard  him 
before,  but  felt  that  he  was  a  man  known  to  them  for  the  first  time. 
The  author  has  limited  himself  to  682  pages;  but  even  so  the  book  is  not 

to  be  recommended  for  light  summer  reading.    The  Macmillan  Co.,   New 

York    $i.5a 

When  one  is  informed  that  the  hero  of  William  R.  A.  Wilson's      ^ug 
A  Knot  of  Blue  is  named  Raoul  de  Chatignac,   it  follows  quite  expected 

naturally   that   the   four   conspirators    against   his    life   and   honor  happens 

should  start  to  their  feet  and  stand  motionless,  when  he  unexpectedly  ap- 
peared.   The  sequence  was  equally  inevitable: 

Raoul   walked  deliberately  across  the   room   and  halted   in   front 
of  his  enemy. 

"Monsieur,"  he  said  in  clear,  vibrating  tones,  "I  have  the  satisfac- 
tion of  telling  you  that  you  are  a  cheat,  a  rog^ue,  and  a  scoundrel.  I 
have  come  to  kill  you.  Will  you  fight?  If  provocation  is  yet  lack- 
ing, perhaps  this  will  aid  you  in  your  decision,"  and  as  he  spoke  he 
raised  his  hand,  which  grasped  a  glove,  and  smote  his  enemy  a 
blow  between  the  eyes." 
Whoever  likes  this  sample  will  like  the  book.  Little,  Brown  &  Co.,  Bos- 
ton.   $1.50. 

Though  the  book  was  published  more  than  a  year  ago,  it  is  not      PLAaNG 
too  late  to  say,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  may  have  overlooked  the 

it,  that  Lincoln  Steffens's  The  Shame  of  the  Cities  is  on  the  whole  responsibility 

the  most  important  contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  municipal  corruption 
and  its  causes  that  has  yet  appeared.  Mr.  Steffens  writes  with  a  cold-; 
blooded  restraint  that  is  far  more  impressive  than  passionate  declamation; 
and  says,  in  effect,  with  Antony,  "I  only  tell  you  what  you  all  do  know." 
He  lays  the  primary  responsibility  for  the  rottenness  upon  the  shoulders 
of  the  "good  citizens" — "the  men  with  a  stake  in  the  community" — and  makes 
it  stick  there.  It  is  a  very  sombre  picture — ^yet  the  author  remains  an 
optimist  of  the  best  type.  The  book  should  be  in  every  library.  McQure, 
Phillips  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.20  net. 

A  gang  of  burglars,  a  haexer  and  a  pow-wower,  a  secret  cavern,  a  curse, 
a  family  feud,  a  pretty  girl  and  her  lover,  and  an  unreasonable  father  are 
among  the  features  which  add  interest  to  F.  L.  Pattee's  House  of  the  Black 
Ring.  But  perhaps  the  most  unusual  feature  is  the  result  of  the  breaking 
into  poetry  of  one  of  the  "Pennsylvania  Dutch"  characters.  Here  it  is : 
Hooray  for  Penn-sil-way-ne-ar  wanst 

Where  folks  is  fat  and  cam; 
Hooray    for    scrapple,    schnits,    and    krout, 
Unt  peegs  what  takes  t'e  pam. 
Henry  Holt  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50. 

A  beautiful  Greek  dancing  girl  and  an  even  more  beautiful  Roman  char- 
ioteer to  whom  she  is  betrothed  are  the  central  figures  about  whom  Tiberius, 


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94  OUT    WMST 

Sejanus,  Agrippina  and  others  revolve  in  Walter  S.  Cramp's  Psyche.  It  is 
interesting  to  learn  that  the  author  studied  shipbuilding  in  the  famous  yards 
established  by  his  father  and  uncles,  and  that  the  taking  over  of  them  by  a 
stock  company  placed  him  in  a  condition  to  gratify  his  greatest  desire — ^the 
study  of  ancient,  mediaeval  and  modern  Rome.  This  romance  seems  to  be 
the  first-fruits  of  his  study.    Little,  Brown  &  Co.,  Boston.    $1.50. 

In  A  Modern  Utopia  H.  G.  Wells  undertakes  to  picture  a  world  parallel- 
ing this  one  precisely  and  with  people  inherently  the  same,  yet  both  possible 
and  more  desirable.  It  is  no  completed  paradise  which  Mr.  Wells  offers, 
but  a  world  a  little  more  rational,  a  little  saner,  a  little  more  just  and  wisely 
ordered  than  this.  The  book  is  not  "easy  reading,"  but  will  prove  profitable 
to  the  right  class  of  readers — among  whom  arc  not  included  any  who  believe 
that  all  wrongs  can  be  righted  by  the  application  of  any  "ism."  Charles 
Scribner's  Sons,  New  York.    $1.50  net. 

Dorothea  Gerard  has  chosen  an  unhackneyed  setting  for  her  Sawdust — a 
Polish  town  among  the  forests  of  the  lower  Carpathians.  The  characters 
are  unhackneyed  as  well,  though  the  motif  of  the  tale,  as  summed  up  by 
the  publishers,  sounds  not  wholly  unfamiliar.  "The  beautiful  daughter  of 
the  proud,  but  poor,  lord  of  the  manor  is  wooed  and  won  by  the  son  of 
the  thrifty  owner  of  the  saw-mill  which  so  rapidly  lays  low  the  primitive 
forest"  This  theme  is  developed  with  interesting  variations.  The  John  C. 
Winston  Co.,  Philadelphia.    $1. 

After  the  Divorce,  well  translated  from  the  Italian  of  Grazia  Deledda  by 
Maria  Lansdale,  is  a  story  of  modem  Sardinia.  A  young  peasant  husband 
is  unjustly  convicted  of  murder  and  sentenced  to  twenty- seven  years  penal 
servitude.  His  wife,  though  still  loving  him,  at  last  gets  a  divorce  and  is 
remarried.  The  truth  about  the  murder  becoming  public,  the  convict  is 
released — and  then  things  happen  which  are  not  pleasant  for  the  second 
husband.    Henry  Holt  &  Co.,  New  York. ;  Fowler  Bros.,  Los  Angeles.    $1.50. 

Herbert  K.  Job  has  been  one  of  the  most  successful  of  the  new  school  of 
"camera-hunters,"  both  in  getting  fine  and  unusual  photographs  of  the  wild 
birds  of  home  and  in  interesting  the  public  in  his  work.  Wild  Wings, 
lately  published,  deals  with  his  adventures  while  hunting  after  his  own 
fashion — and  a  plenty  of  them  he  has  had.  It  is  fully  and  beautifully  illus- 
trated from  the  author's  photographs.  Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co.,  Boston; 
Stoll  &  Thayer  Co.,  Los  Angeles.    $3  net. 

The  first  chapter  of  Virginia  Frazer  Boyle's  Serena  would  make  a  first- 
rate  short  story,  with  but  slight  alteration.  The  novel  as  a  whole  hardly 
fulfills  the  promise  of  the  opening  chapters,  though  it  does  not  fall  below 
a  reasonable  standard.  A  young  girl  in  Northern  Mississippi,  who  has  to 
take  her  brother's  place  in  the  Southern  army  to  keep  the  family  name 
unstained,  gives  the  story  its  title.  A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50. 

Our  First  Century,  by  George  Cary  Eggleston,  may  be  classed  as  light 
and  agreeable  historical  reading.  It  "seeks  to  give  a  popular  account  of  the 
life,  manners  and  customs  of  those  who  first  planted  English  colonies  along 
the  Atlantic  coast,  and  laid  the  foundations  of  our  country."  The  illustra- 
tions are  selected  for  their  bearing  upon  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
time.    A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.20  net, 

"An  American  bom  and  bred,  who  was  dragged,  hypnotized,  mesmerized, 
or  what  you   will;   made   unknowingly  to   commit   a  theft,   made   unknow- 


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THAT  WHICH  IS   WRITTEN  95 

ingly  to  cross  the  Atlantic,  to  travel  under  a  false  name,  to  attempt  to  usurp 
a  title  and  a  throne,"  is  the  hero  of  Charles  Stokes  Wayne's  A  Prince  to 
Order.  The  story  will  not  disappoint  any  who  are  attracted  by  this  sum- 
mary of  it    John  Lane,  New  York.    $1.50. 

The  Vision  of  Elijah  Berl  was  a  vision  of  a  great  irrigation  project  which 
should  make  the  desert  blossom  like  the  rose  and  bring  wealth  and  power 
to  its  promoters.  The  dream  was  realized  at  last;  but  the  dreamer  was 
dead,  saved  from  dishonor  only  by  an  impulse  of  heroism  at  the  last.  Frank 
Lewis  Nason  tells  the  story.    Little,  BrowR  &  Co.,  Boston.    $1.50. 

Ten  of  Petrarch's  sonnets,  a  ballata,  two  canzoni  and  a  double  sestina, 
all  exquisite,  are  exquisitely  translated  by  Agnes  Tobin  and  published  in  a 
fittingly  beautiful  form  under  the  title,  The  Flying  Lesson,  Miss  Tobin 
shows  such  gifts  as  translator  as  are  very  uncommon.  William  Heineman, 
London;  Paul  Elder  &  Co.,  San  Francisco.    $2  net. 

Pathos  is  the  dominant  note  in  The  Quakeress,  by  Charles  Heber  Clark, 
more  widely  known  under  his  pen-name,  "Max  Adeler."  The  Quaker  lassie 
who  is  the  heroine  of  the  tale  loves  and  is  loved  by  a  fascinating  young 
Southerner — loves  him  to  her  final  heartbreak.  The  John  C.  Winston  Co., 
Philadelphia.    $i.5a 

The  life-and-death  fight  between  cattlemen  and  farmers  in  a  ranching 
section  of  Colorado  is  the  leading  motive  of  John  H.  Whitson's  Justin 
lyingate.  Rancher,  Politics,  narrow  escapes  and  love-making  are  thrown 
in  for  good  measure.    Little,  Brown  &  Co.,  Boston.    $1.50. 

Wolcott  Johnson  has  written  a  very  quiet  and  tender  little  tale  in 
An  Old  Man's  Idyl,  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  diary,  rambling  off  into  remi- 
niscences, and  tells  affectionately  of  a  peaceful  and  happy  wedded  life  of 
tliirty  years.    A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chicago.    $1  net. 

Ten  short  stories  of  the  frontier,  by  Rex  E.  Beach,  are  published  under 
ilie  title,  Pardners,  Mr.  Beach's  West,  whether  in  Texas  or  Alaska,  and 
whether  the  situation  be  tragic  or  comic,  is  the  simon-pure  wild  and  woolly 
article.    McClure,  Phillips  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50. 

Government  and  the  Citizen,  by  Roscoe  Lewis  Ashley,  is  a  thoroughly 
sound  and  useful  text-book.  The  "California  Edition"  has  an  Appendix 
containing  supplementary  facts  about  the  government  of  this  State.  The 
Macmillan  Co.,  New  York.    75  cents. 

The  Boys  of  Bob's  Hill  discovered  a  cavern  and  formed  a  band  of  bandits — 
and  then  had  a  plenty  of  the  kind  of  troubles  which  boys  count  as  fun. 
Charles  Pierce  Burton  tells  about  them.  Henry  Holt  &  Co.,  New  York; 
Fowler  Bros.,  Los  Angeles.    $1.25. 

On  Tybee  Knoll  is  a  clean  and  vigorous  story  of  work  and  adventure 
on  the  Georgia  coast,  by  James  B.  Connolly.  A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.,  New 
York.    $1.25. 

Chari«bs  Amadon  Moody. 


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CHIPS  FROM  A  WCSTEKN  PHILOSOPHY 

No   temple   of   happiness    was   ever   built    from   other   material   than   the 
slow-hewn  stones  of  duty  accomplished. 

There  is  no  night  for  the  soul.    Lift  the  black  curtain  and  the  light  is 
always  beyond. 

The   most   unfriendly  criticism   usually  has  a  kernel  of  truth  in  it.    Don't 
let  its  bitter  flavor  keep  you  from  chewing  till  you  find  it. 

Success  is  slippery  standing-ground  except  for  him  whose  feet  have  been 
roughened  by  the  thorns  of  failure. 

An  ideal  is  not  something  to  be  vainly  striven  for.    It  is  a  mark  to  be 
surpassed. 

Ridicule  is  by  no  means  the  worst  thing.    I  would  rather  be  laughed  at 
a  hundred  times  than  wept  over  once. 

The  most  effective  weapon  against  trouble  is  a  smile. 

Good  humor  and  bad  temper  are  the  two  most  contagious  things  on  earth. 
But  good  humor  will  always  win  if  they  really  lock  horns. 

The  vital  joy  is  in  the  struggle.    To  win  is  worth  while  only  as  a  vantage 
point  from  which  to  win  higher. 

Keep  your  soul  in  the  free  and  open  wherever  your  body  may  be. 

No  loss  can  be  so  great  but  that  you  may  get  a  net  profit  from  it — if  you 
will 

Religion  is  not  a  belief,  or  any  number  of  them.    It  is  a  way  of  living. 

To  be  happy  is  to  make  others  happy — and  this  is  a  rule  which  works 
just  as  well  the  other  way. 

It  is  of  small  consequence  how  long  you  live.    The  significant  fact  is  how 
much  you  live. 

You  can't  grow   ship-timber  in ,  a  hothouse.    The  fibre  to  defy  tempests 
weaves  itself  nowhere  but  outdoors. 

The  easiest  way  over  a  wall  is  right  through  it  oftener  than  most  people 
think. 

Make  the  measure  of  your  treatment   of  each   man   not   his   desert,  but 
your  greatness  of  spirit. 

Wishing  and  hoping  are  the  twin  sisters  of  failure — and  childless.    Willing 
and  working  are  the  parents  of  success. 

Can't  you  see  your  way  to  success?    What  are  your  hands  and  feet  for, 
then? 

The  tenderness  which   is  only  large  enough  to  cover  two  or  three  is  a 
mighty  scanty  garment  and  too  frail  to  stand  much  wear. 

Jealousy  is  of  no  kin  whatever  to  the  family  of  love.    Vanity  begets  it 
and  selfishness  gives  it  birth. 

The  only  dangerous  lie  is  a  twisted  truth. 

Facts  are  of  value  mainly  to  make  the  lens  through  which  we  observe  all 
of  life. 


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rmmmmrU 

XH«    l^Attd    of  SunsKln« 


THE  NATION  BACK  OF  US,  THE  WORLD  IN  FRONT. 


VoL  XXm,    No.  2.  AUGUST,  1905. 

Copyright  1905,  by  Out  W«tt  Magazin*  Co.    All  rights  reMrved. 

••ON   LOCATION •• 

By  LEROY  HENNESSEY 

grjRANSIT  and  level  and  chain, 
^*1        Muscle,  endurance  and  brain, 

Arms  of  the  bloodless  Captains 
Thralling  the  burning  plain. 

Out  there  somewhere  in  the  purple,  lies  the  endless  end  of  things, 
Miles  and  miles  and  miles  of  No  Place,  where  that  choking  sky-line 

clings. 
'Way  beyond,  ten  million  people,  ships  and  trains  and  fruit  and  gold ; 
They  would  span  this  wicked  desert,  link  the  new  land  with  the  old 

We  must  locate  and  survey; 

We  have  come  to  point  the  way. 

Wagons,  mules,  and  grub  and  party  moving  toward  the  hopeful 

West. 
What  we'll  do  will  make  or  break  us ;  when  it's  done,  'twill  be  our 

best. 
Friends  we  have  will  know  we  did  it ;  ''Company"  will  not  forget. 
Pay  is  small  but  credit's  something;  some  we  know  will  know  us 
yet. 

First  camp  here;  we've  got  our  start. 
Home's  behind ;  forget  your  heart. 

Left  some  weeks  and  miles  behind  us ;  Devil  take  that  swearing 

chief ! 
Water's  gone  and  food  is  rotten ;  sleeping  isn't  much  relief. 
Hours  long  and  men  are  sweating ;  world's  on  fire ;  sky's  white  hot ; 
Eyes  are  smarting;  skin  is  itching;  learning  things  we'd  rather  not. 

Job's  not  moving  very  fast; 

Wonder  when  we'll  see  the  last. 


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100  OUT    WEST 

Cactus,  sagebrush,  sand,  and  silence;  thirst  and  sun  and  "cursed 

survey !" 
Stakes  and  stakes  and  stakes — we  drove  'eni — stakes  and  stakes  and 

— one  more  day. 
Once  there  were  some  men  and  women;  once  the  week  and  month 

and  year; 
Once  a  world  and  we  were  in  it — days  and  days  and  Nowhere  here. 
Once,  before  our  orders  come, 
Once,  I  think,  we  had  a  home. 

Chain  and  chain — another  hundred ;  chain  and  chain  and  **Drive  one 

there." 
Sight  and  sight  and  **That  point's  settled;"  tack  on  keel-mark  and 

"Take  care." 
Tangents,  curves,  and  frogs,  and  angles;  "Three  degrees"  and  "Let 

'er  go." 
Switch-points,  leads,  and  gage,  and  figure;  "What  you  guess  you'd 

better  know." 

Camp  again  and  firelight. 

All  asleep  and — one  more  night. 

Ghosts — and  ghosts — and  ghosts — and  whispers;  creep — and  creep 

— and  creep — ^and  chill ; 
Think — and   think — and   think — of  living;  night — and   night — and 

thinking  still. 
Stars  of  tin  and  moon  of  copper,  nailed  up  in  the  aching  black ; 
Guess  and  toss  and  bum  and  shiver — wonder  when  weVe  going 
back. 

Grinning  Death,  and  awful  plain. 
And — that  foolish  Sun  again. 

Dizzy  rod  and  dancing  target,  grade  and  level,  cut  and  fill ; 
Tote  that  transit  leagues  unnumbered — center  of  the  desert  still. 
Once,  a  thousand  years  behind  us,  saw  a  shadow  blue  and  strange. 
Days  and  days  we  stalked  that  phantom;  chased  that  silly,  shifting 
range. 

Once,  before  this  Hell  began. 

Once,  I  think,  I  was  a  Man. 

WeVe  not  in  the  Land  of  the  Living;  weVe  dry  bones  that  squeak 

and  crawl. 
Fm  an  ape  and  you're  a  monkey ;  that  thing's  not  a  girl  at  all. 
Some,  they  say,  will  come  with  voices,  come  to  stretch  an  iron  hand 
Out  across  this  blazing  horror — funny  lie,  that  "Promised  Land." 

Snakey  track,  just  like  an  eel, 

T'hold  two  coasts  with  grip  o'  steel. 

Someone's  talking;  breeze  is  cool;  mists  a-falling  off  the  sun. 
World  is  new  and  full  of  people,  and  thank  God,  THAT  JOB  IS 

DONE. 
Fires  out  and  canvas  folded ;  creaking  wagons  moving  round ; 
That  blue  shadow  turned  to  mountains ;  that  mirage  is  solid  ground. 

Damn  the  pay,  the  end  has  come! 

Credit  hang,  WE'RE  GOING  HOME! 

Wheeler,  Ind. 


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101 


WHEN  THE  GATES  WERE  LIFTED  ON 
THE  TRUCKEE 

By  WILLIAM  E.  SMYTHE 

T  WAS  precisely  10:23  a.  m.  of  Saturday,  June  17,  1905 
Senator  Francis  G.  Newlands  raised  his  hand ;  his  wife, 
Edith  McAllister  Newlands,  smashed  a  bottle  of  cham- 
pagne against  the  metallic  crank  of  one  of  the  gates ; 
United  States  Senators,  members  of  Congress,  the 
Governor  of  California,  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of 
Nevada,  the  Chief  Engineer  of  the  Reclamation  Ser- 
vice, and  a  number  of  private  citizens  prominent  for 
years  in  the  national  irrigation  movement,  bent  to  the 
cranks,  each  of  which  manipulated  a  gate.  Within  a  few  mo- 
ments the  flow  of  the  Truckee  was  cut  off  and  stranded  fishes 
were  flopping  helplessly  in  the  exposed  bed  of  the  stream.  At 
almost  the  same  moment  the  gates  were  lifted  at  the  head  of  the 
diverting  canal,  and  the  waters  turned  from  their  ancient  channel, 
where  they  had  wasted  for  ages  in  the  sinks  of  the  desert,  and 
began  their  long  journey  through  tunnels  and  canals  to  the 
valley  of  the  Carson,  to  enter  upon  their  mission  of  making 
homes  in  the  wilderness. 

As  the  flood  burst  with  a  hoarse  roar  into  the  new  canal, 
hundreds  of  spectators  lifted  their  voices  in  ringing  cheers 
which  echoed  back  from  the  surrounding  hills.  National  irri- 
gation was  an  accomplished  fact!  Patience  had  done  her  per- 
fect work.  The  seed  planted  long  ago  in  the  stony  soil  of  public 
indifference,  watched  and  tended  by  patriotic  and  undiscourage- 
able  men,  had  come  to  fruitage.  Judging  from  my  own  feelings, 
and  from  the  talks  I  had  with  many  of  the  large  and  distinguished 
company,  three  thoughts  were  uppermost  in  every  mind. 

First,  there  was  the  thought  already  expressed — the  triumph 
of  a  great  movement  which  had  fought  its  way  inch  by  inch 
until  at  last  it  prevailed  and  saw  its  story  written  on  the  face  of 
the  earth. 

Second,  the  thought  that  in  a  field  where  individual  man  had 
gone  down  baffled  and  defeated  in  his  struggle  with  the  forces 
of  nature,  organized  and  associated  man  had  been  able  to  deal 
with  the  situation  with  the  utmost  ease  and  success. 

Third,  the  thought  that  if  the  Nation  can  build  irrigation 
works,  and  build  them  so  much  better  and  more  quickly  than 
private  enterprise  has  ever  been  able  to  do,  this  demonstration 
must  inevitably  be,  not  the  end,  but  only  the  beginning,  of  the 
application  of  this  principle  in  national  affairs. 

niastratioot  for  this  article  are  from  phototrraphs  famished  by  the  Pacific  Portland  Cement 
Co.,  which  supplies  all  the  cement  nsed  by  the  Reclamation  Service  in  Nevada— more 
than  60,000  barrels  of  their  **  Golden  Gate  "  brand  up  to  date. 


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102  OUT    WEST 

In  the  light  of  these  thoughts  the  17th  of  June,  1905,  was  a 
great  day  not  merely  for  the  settlers  of  Carson  Valley,  not  merely 
for  Nevada  and  the  West,  but  for  the  whole  American  people. 

What  is  known  as  the  Truckee-Carson  project  will  ultimately 
irrigate  375,000  acres  of  land  and  cost  about  $9,000,000.  Nine 
years  will  be  required  to  bring  it  to  completion.  The  portion 
of  the  works  put  into  operation  on  June  17th  will  distribute 
water  to  about  50,000  acres  and  represents  a  cost  of  about  $1,- 
750,000. 

The  main  canal  now  in  operation  diverts  the  water  from  the 
channel  of  the  Truckee  at  a  point  about  twenty-four  miles  east 


ENTRANCE  TO  TUNNBL  NO.  1,  TRUCKEH-CARSON   PROJECT 

of  Reno,  and  conveys  it  through  the  divide  to  the  Carson  River, 
a  distance  of  thirty-one  miles.  This  canal  has  a  capacity  for  the 
first  six  miles  of  its  course  of  1,400  cubic  feet  per  second,  or  70,- 
000  miner's  inches  under  a  four-inch  pressure,  and,  for  the  re- 
mainder of  its  course,  of  1,200  cubic  feet  per  second.  The  depth 
of  water  will  be  uniformly  thirteen  feet,  and  the  top  of  the  banks 
is  two  feet  above  the  high-water  line.  The  width  at  the  top 
varies  from  twenty-four  to  sixty-three  feet,  the  narrow  part 
being  lined  with  Portland  cement  concrete  and  having  a  heavy 
grade.     Nearly  two  miles  of  the  canal,  exclusive  of  tunnels,  are 


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INTERIOR  OF  TUNNEL  NO.  U  TRUCKEE-CARSON  PROJECT 

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104  OUT     WEST 

lined  with  concrete.  There  are  three  tunnels,  one  300  feet,  one 
9,000  feet,  and  one  1,500  feet  in  length.  All  are  lined  with  con- 
crete, twelve  feet  wide  and  about  sixteen  feet  high  to  crown  of 
arch  inside.  The  main  canal  discharges  its  water  into  a  natural 
reservoir  on  the  Carson  and  flows  thence  four  and  one-half 
miles  to  the  diversion  dam  at  the  head  of  the  distributing  sys- 
tem, where  it  is  led  out  upon  the  land  in  two  wide-reaching 
canals,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river. 

The  canal  on  the  south  side  has  a  width  of  twenty-two  feet, 
a  top  width  of  seventy-eight  feet,  and  carries  twelve  feet  of 
water,  the  capacity  being  1,500  cubic  feet  per  second.  The  canal 
on  the  north  side  is  tliirteen  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  forty-five 
feet  wide  at  the  top,  carries  six  and  one-half  feet  depth  of  water, 
and  has  a  capacity  of  450  cubic  feet  per  second.  At  present, 
these  two  canals  are  ( ompleted  for  a  length  of  thirty-eight  miles. 
With  their  main  branches,  they  will  ultimately  ha\re  a  total 
length  of  over  ninety  miles,  while  the  laterals  and  drain  ditches 
to  be  constructed  in  Carson  Sink  Valley  alone  will  aggregate 
fully  1,200  miles. 

The  dam  in  the  Carson  at  the  head  of  the  distributing  system 
is  something  to  bring  a  smile  of  satisfaction  to  the  faces  of  those 
who  have  known  the  crude  brush  dams  of  the  pioneers  and  the 
endless  difficulties  which  arose  from  them.  This  government 
dam  is  a  solid  concrete  structure,  built  for  a  thousand  years.  It 
constitutes  an  absolute  guaranty  of  a  permanent  water  supply 
to  the  settlers.  This,  indeed,  is  the  character  of  all  the  work 
which  the  Government  has  done. 

The  Supervising  Engineer  who  built  these  works,  and  whose 
enduring  monument  they  will  be,  is  L.  H.  Taylor.  He  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly modest  man  who  says  little,  but  works  much.  When 
the  crowd  called  for  him  on  June  17th,  it  was  discovered  that 
he  alone  was  missing  from  the  throng  which  gathered  about 
the  speakers.  He  was  found  standing  on  his  dam,  carefully  in- 
specting the  head-gates  to  make  sure  that  everything  was  in 
order  for  the  great  act  of  turning  on  the  water.  He  was  finally 
captured  and  made  to  stand,  blushing  and  diffident,  in  the  face 
of  a  storm  of  cheers.  But  all  he  could  say  was:  *T  will  let  the 
works  speak  for  me." 

Nevertheless,  it  was  a  great  moment  for  Taylor.  Nearly  fif- 
teen years  ago  he  was  brought  to  Nevada  by  Francis  G.  New- 
lands  to  make  a  comprehensive  study  of  the  irrigation  possi- 
bilities of  the  Sagebrush  State.  He  then  proceeded  to  outline 
a  vast  project — so  vast,  indeed,  that  he  became  an  object  of 
ridicule  and  was  regarded  as  a  dreamer  of  idle  dreams.  That  was 


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WHEN  THE  GATES  WERE  LIFTED 


105 


long  before  anybody  believed  that  Uncle  Sam  could  be  induced 
to  furnish  the  money  for  such  undertakings. 

Taylor  never  altered  his  purpose.  He  never  lost  faith  in  its 
ultimate  realization.  When  the  Reclamation  Service  was  or- 
ganized, his  opportunity  came.  He  was  placed  in  charge  of  the 
work,  with  such  financial  backing  as  only  the  Nation  can  supply. 
Now  distrust  has  turned  to  confidence,  ridicule  to  admiration, 
laughter  to  cheers.  Taylor  stands  forth  one  of  the  engineers  of 
the  world,  one  of  the  builders  of  Nevada  and  the  West.  But 
he  is  the  same  Taylor  who  used  to  occupy  a  back  seat  at  the 


MAP  OF  THE  TRUCKBB-CAKSON  IRRIGATION   PROJECT 

early  irrigation  congresses  with  an  apologetic  air,  but  with  a 
certain  sparkle  in  his  eye  which  indicated  that  he  would  yet  be 
heard  from. 

The  land  to  be  irrigated  is  located  in  a  number  of  valleys 
along  the  Truckee  and  Carson  rivers,  extending  on  each  side 
from  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  the  greatest  distance  from  the 
road  being  twenty-five  miles.  The  soil  is  adapted  to  alfalfa  and 
other  forage  crops,  potatoes,  onions,  beets,  and  other  vegetables, 
apples,  pears,  berries,  and  similar  hardy  fruits. 


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106  OUT    WEST 

Nearly  all  the  land  now  irrigated  is  public  property,  or  was 
such  until  entered  by  settlers.  Two-thirds  of  it  has  already  been 
filed  upon  and  the  remainder  is  being  rapidly  taken.  No  price 
is  charged  for  the  land,  except  filing  fees,  which  are  nominal. 
But  the  settler  must  repay  the  cost  of  irrigation  in  ten  annual 
installments,  without  interest.  This  amounts  to  $26  an  acre,  of 
which  about  $10  an  acre  has  been  incurred  by  the  provision  of 
drainage  facilities.  The  United  States  Agricultural  Department 
estimates  that  one-tenth  of  the  land  irrigated  by  private  or  cor- 


UP-STRBAM   PACB  OP   WASTE  GATE,  CANAL  NO.  1,  TRUCKBB-CARSON  PKOJ  KCT 

porate  enterprise  has  been  seriously  injured,  if  not  permanently 
ruined,  by  excess  of  water  and  lack  of  drainage.  Drainage  is 
imperative  as  a  means  of  carrying  off  the  heavy  alkali  deposits. 
The  settler  is  fortunate  to  be  able  to  make  his  home  where  con- 
ditions have  been  scientifically  ascertained  in  advance  and  where 
the  best  engineering  skill,  together  with  abundant  capital,  have 
been  available  to  make  the  most  thorough  preparation  for  his 
success. 


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DOWK-STRBAM  FACB  OP  WASTE  OATS,  CANAL  NO.  1*  TRUCKEB-CARSON  PROJECT 


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108  OUT    WEST 

Any  unmarried  person  over  twenty-one  years  of  age,  or  head 
of  a  family,  who  is,  or  has  declared  intention  to  become,  a  citi- 
zen of  the  United  States,  who  has  not  used  his  or  her  homestead 
right,  or  who  is  not  then  owner  of  more  than  i6o  acres  of  land 
in  any  one  state,  can  file  on  any  one  of  the  tracts  surveyed  by 
the  Government.  Title  to  lands  cannot  be  acquired  until  all  pay- 
ments for  water  have  been  made,  ten  years  hence.  The  law  re- 
quires a  homesteader  to  see  and  select  his  land  personally. 

There  is  one  warning  which  should  be  sounded  for  the  benefit 
of  a  certain  class  of  settlers.     The  man  who  attempts  to  make 


DIVERSION  DAM  ON  TRUCKBB  KIVBR,  TKUCKBB'CARSON   PROJECT 

This  is  an  '*  open-type  **  dam  for  discharirioir  flood-water 

a  home  on  the  primeval  desert,  even  with  free  land  and  the  best 
irrigation  and  drainage  facilities,  requires  money  to  make  a  suc- 
cessful start.  There  will  doubtless  be  exceptions  to  the  rule — 
men  who  will  get  work  in  the  locality  from  the  Government  or 
private  parties  and  be  able  to  hold  on  until  their  land  yields  re- 
turns, when,  by  dint  of  hard  work  and  economical  living,  they 
can  build  their  homes,  improve  their  lands,  and  make  their  an- 
nual payments  for  water  rights.  But  the  average  man  will  need 
capital  in  order  to  bring  his  farm  to  a  paying  stage.  This 
capital  he  cannot  borrow  until  he  gets  title  to  his  land,  and  he 
cannot  get  title  until  he  completes  payment  for  his  water  rights, 


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WHEN  THE  GATES  WERE  LIFTED  109 

ten  years  hence.     There  is  no  way  in  which  these  payments  can 
be  commuted. 

The  reader  will  make  the  obvious  comment  that  the  law  fails 
to  make  provision  for  those  most  in  need  of  homes.  That  is  a 
sad  truth.  The  next  great  battle  will  be  for  the  New  Zealand 
system  of  advances  to  settlers.  "But  that  is  Socialism,"  you  say. 
Yes,  and  so  is  national  irrigation.  Does  anyone  know  how  the 
lot  of  the  common  man  may  be  improved  except  by  measures 
which  are  properly  to  be  regarded  as  Socialistic  in  character?  If 
so,  I  know  a  number  of  eminent  and  apprehensive  gentlemen  in 


HBADOATB  ON   MAIN  CANAL  FROM  TRUCKBB  RIVBR 

this  country  who  would  like  to  be  advised. 

While  the  land  now  open  to  settlement  is  almost  entirely  pub- 
lic land,  a  number  of  large  private  estates  will  be  irrigated  when 
the  works  are  completed.  These  must  be  subdivided  to  comply 
with  the  law,  and  water  rights  paid  for  on  just  the  same  terms 
as  those  which  apply  to  public  land.  For  the  settler  who  has 
sufficient  capital  the  opportunity  is  a  grand  one.  The  rapid 
growth  of  towns  and  various  local  industries  will  open  many 
chances  for  young  men  who  want  to  go  in  and  grow  up  with  the 
country.  But  for  the  average  settler  without  means  the  doors 
are  closed,  alike  on  public  and  private  land.     Before  the  doors 


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WHEN  THE  GATES  WERE  LIFTED  ill 

can  be  unlocked,  the  Government  must  loan  money  to  the  class 
of  settlers  most  sorely  in  need  of  such  opportunities  or  it  must 
I)ermit  others  to  loan  them  money.  New  Zealand  thinks  it  is 
wise  for  the  country  to  borrow  at  three  per  cent,  and  loan  to 
settlers  at  four  per  cent.  Loaning  millions  on  homesteads,  New 
Zealand  has  not  lost  one  single  dollar,  but  has  added  five  or  ten 
dollars  to  the  wealth  of  the  country  for  every  dollar  loaned  in 
this  way.  Will  Uncle  Sam  do  likewise?  The  future  will  an- 
swer; but  I  think  he  will. 

As  I  stood  in  the  crowd  by  the  banks  of  the  Truckee  during 
the  ceremonies  which  preceded  the  lifting  of  the  head-gates,  my 
mind  went  back  to  the  early  days  of  the  national  irrigation  move- 
ment, I  felt  that  I  touched  elbows  with  those  who  would  not  be 
noted  by  the  newspapers  among  the  distinguished  guests  or 
caught  by  the  cameras  of  the  enterprising  photographers. 

First  of  all,  I  saw  John  W.  Powell,  the  earliest  scientific  ex- 
plorer of  Arid  America  and  the  first  to  comprehend  the  meaning 
of  its  strange  environment.  There  he  stood,  his  shaggy  head, 
his  grim,  determined,  yet  intellectual  face,  his  empty  sleeve  re- 
minding us  of  his  sacrifices  for  the  Republic  on  the  battlefields 
of  war  before  he  became  a  foremost  figure  on  her  battlefields  of 
peace.  How  his  great  soul  must  have  swelled  with  the  pride 
and  joy  of  achievement  if  he  stood  under  that  clear  Nevada  sky 
when  the  Great  Dream  came  true! 

Then  there  was  that  picturesque  figure,  Richard  J.  Hinton, 
who  used  to  quarrel  with  us  sometimes,  but  whose  only  rivalry 
with  Powell  and  the  rest  was  to  see  who  could  do  most  for  Arid 
America  and  for  humanity.  He  feared  the  early  policy  of  ceding 
the  lands  to  the  states,  because  he  thought  it  might  foster  a 
spirit  of  separatism.  He  longed  for  a  policy  which  should  cement 
the  Union  for  which  he  had  fought — for  which  he  continued  to 
fight  until  his  dying  day.  He,  too,  would  have  swung  his  old 
slouch  hat  and  swelled  the  chorus  of  cheers  when  the  water 
turned  sharply  from  its  ancient  channel  to  pass  through  the  hills 
to  the  waiting  valley  beyond. 

Then  there  was  that  old  man  of  quaint  eloquence.  Judge  James 
S.  Emery  of  Kansas — the  friend  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  and  the 
friend  of  man.  What  pictures  he  painted  of  the  coming  glories 
of  Arid  America,  and,  as  he  used  to  say,  "the  Sunflower  State 
which  I  love  so  well !"  O,  for  a  few  words  from  dear  old  Emery, 
if  he  could  have  stood  on  the  dam  as  the  water  gushed  into  the 
first  canal  built  by  the  Government! 

Finally,  the  rotund  figure  of  that  finest  of  Mormon  diplomats, 
George  Q.  Cannon.  Say  what  you  will  of  his  religion,  he 
preached  the  gospel  of  irrigation  from  a  heart  which  always  beat 


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112  OUT    WEST 

true  to  the  interests  of  the  American  settler  in  the  desert.  What 
would  we  have  given  to  see  his  radiant  smile  when  the  head- 
gates  were  lifted  and  the  Truckee  sped  upon  its  mission  to  make 
homes  and  fill  the  silence  with  the  laughter  of  children! 

These  were  but  a  few  of  the  shadowy  forms  which  surely  stood 
on  the  banks  of  the  Truckee  at  the  memorable  hour  when  na- 
tional irrigation  became  a  fact — that  is,  if  the  dead  ever  come 
back  to  revisit  the  dearest  scenes  of  their  former  labors  and  to 
witness  the  realization  of  their  fondest  hopes. 

Congratulations,  old  comrades,  living  and  dead !  We  may  do 
nothing  else  on  earth,  but  this  thing  we  have  done,  and  it  shall 
endure  forever! 

Sao  Di«ffo,  Cal. 


THE  COLORADO 

By  THERESA  RUSSELL 

In  June. 
H  troubled  river, 
Vexed  to  deliver, 

Chafing  thy  borders  and  lashing  white  foam, 
Now  in  thy  high  tide 
Flinging  thy  waves  wide 
Surging  and  sobbing  thou  makest  thy  moan. 

In   December. 

Oh  quiet  river, 

Ripple  nor  quiver, 
Mars  thy  serenity  nor  breaks  thy  peace; 

Hushed  now  to  dreaming, 

Glowing  and  gleaming, 
Brooding  in  silence  thy   lamentings  cease. 

Oh  frenzied  river, 

Oh  placid  river. 
Youth  ever  utters  its  passionate  plea; 

Then  grown  aweary 

Protest  and  query 
Sepulchred  lie  'neath  an  unruffled  sea. 

Chloride,  Arizona 


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113 
SACAJAWEA 

By  F.   JV.  FLETCHER 

•TN  THE  summer  of  1800  a  little  band  of  Shoshoni  Indians 
^  was  encamped  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Jefferson  River  in 
Montana,  about  one  mile  above  the  point  where  the  Jef- 
ferson, the  Madison  and  the  Gallatin  unite  to  form  the 
Missouri.  The  camp  was  in  a  beautiful  valley,  surrounded 
by  mountains,  and  the  little  huts  of  poles  and  brush  were 
built  among  the  willows  and  cottonwoods  by  the  river- 
side. From  an  Indian  standpoint  the  location  of  the  camp 
was  perfect.  Their  horses,  with  which  they  were  well 
supplied,  fattened  on  the  luxuriant  wild  grasses,  tended  by  old  men 
and  boys ;  the  streams  were  plentifully  stocked  with  fish ;  there  were 
many  deer  among  the  foothills;  and  immense  bands  of  buffalo 
grazed  on  the  plains  in  the  river  valleys. 

Indeed,  it  was  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  these  animals 
that  the  Shoshoni  had  come  down  into  the  buffalo  country ;  for  their 
home,  if  home  it  could  be  called,  was  across  the  Divide,  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  by  the  headwaters  of  the 
Columbia,  or  its  southeastern  tributaries.  Not  from  choice  did  the 
Shoshoni  dwell  so  high  up  in  the  mountains,  far  from  the  haunts 
of  the  buffalo;  but  the  Minataree  and  the  Ankara,  their  relentless 
and  powerful  foes,  were  masters  of  the  eastern  plains,  so  that  only 
at  peril  of  their  lives  did  the  mountain  Indians  descend  to  the  lower 
valleys,  nor  did  they  often  venture  beyond  the  foothills.  Game  was 
not  plentiful  in  the  mountains,  and  it  was  famine  that  forced  them 
to  go  down  to  the  buffalo  country.  The  Shoshoni  were  good  fishers 
but  poor  hunters.  Their  method  of  hunting  deer  was  for  several 
horsemen  to  surround  one  in  an  open  valley  and  run  him  down  by 
relays  of  fresh  horses;  good  sport,  no  doubt,  but  of  little  avail  for 
securing  food.  In  the  Pacific  streams,  during  certain  months,  were 
great  quantities  of  salmon,  and  these  were  the  chief  food  supply  of 
the  Indians.  When  the  salmon  failed,  hunger  and  distress  visited 
the  lodges  of  the  Shoshoni. 

At  the  camp  on  the  Jefferson  River  all  was  peace  and  content- 
ment. The  hunters  had  returned  from  the  day's  chase  in  high  spirits, 
for  buffalo  were  plentiful  and  easy  to  secure;  the  squaws  were  busy 
cutting  up  the  meat  and  spreading  it  in  the  sun  to  dry.  Suddenlv 
from  the  cotton  woods  along  the  river  bank  appeared  a  band  of 
Minataree  warriors.  The  Shoshoni  were  not  fighters  and  sought 
safety  in  flight,  the  men,  with  true  Indian  chivalry,  mounting  the 
horses  and  leaving  the  women  and  children  to  care  for  themselves ; 
this  they  attempted  to  do  by  flight  and  by  hiding  among  the  trees, 
but  most  of  them  were  captured.     Four  Shoshoni  men,  as  many 


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§  §  2 
>»  S 


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SAC  A  J  A  WBA  115 

women,  and  several  boys,  were  killed ;  while  four  boys  and  a  num- 
ber of  girls  were  captured. 

Among  the  girls  in  the  Shoshoni  camp  when  it  was  attacked  was 


LEWIS  IN    INDIAN   DRBS8 

Drawn  by  SI.  Menin,  Reproduced  from  Noah 
Brooks's  *'  First  Across  the  Continent**  by 
permission  of  Charles  Scribner*s  Sons 

Sacajawea,*  the  sister  of  Cameahwait,  a  Shoshoni  chief.    In  com- 
pany with  a  girl  companion,  she  endeavored  to  escape.    They  suc- 

^Pronotuiced  Sata-cah-ffah-w^-ah,  meaning  the  bird-womaa 


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116  OUT    WEST 

ceeded  in  eluding  their  pursuers  for  a  time  and  reached  a  fording 
place  in  the  river  several  miles  above  their,  camp.  This  ford  they 
attempted  to  cross  but  were  discovered  by  the  Minataree  and  cap- 
tured ;  and,  according  to  Indian  custom,  became  the  property  of  their 
captors.  This  not  uncommon  fate  of  an  Indian  girl,  far  outside  the 
borders  of  civilization,  in  a  portion  of  country  then  absolutely  un- 
known to  white  men,  would  have  little  interest  now  had  not  subse- 
quent events  made  it  a  matter  of  considerable  importance  to  the 
government  of  the  United  States.  Sacajawea  and  the  other  captive 
became  the  slaves  of  the  Minataree,  whose  villages  were  far  to  the 
east,  on  Knife  River.  Thither  they  were  taken,  though  Sacajawea's 
girl  companion  managed  to  escape  and  returned  to  her  kindred  on 
the  Snake  River.  Of  Sacajawea's  life  for  the  next  few  years  Httle 
is  known.  She  doubtless  became  a  member  of  her  captor's  family, 
and  with  them  followed  the  chase,  going  with  them,  no  doubt,  down 
the  Missouri  to  trade  with  the  whites. 

However  Sacajawea  may  have  passed  the  years  between  1800 
and  1804,  history  was  making  in  the  land  of  her^fathers;  history 
that  was  to  bring  doom  to  her  people,  while  it  added  a  chain  of  great 
states  to  the  new  Republic  and  extended  its  reach  from  ocean  to 
ocean.  Thomas  Jefferson,  great  Democrat  but  greater  statesman, 
as  President  of  the  United  States,  purchased  from  the  first  Napoleon 
in  1803  the  vast  territory  known  as  Louisiana.  He  purchased  it 
primarily  to  obtain  the  port  of  New  Orleans,  but  h^  was  greatly 
interested  to  know  what  manner  of  country  it  was  that  Talleyrand 
had  practically  thrown  into  the  bargain  up  in  the  northwest. 

For  more  than  a  dozen  years  he  had  looked  with  prophetic  vision 
toward  that  unknown  region  and  had  gathered  every  scrap  of  in- 
formation brought  back  by  the  few  fur  traders  and  voyagers  who 
had  adventured  beyond  its  borders.  Before  the  purchase  was  com- 
pleted, and  in  the  face  of  the  opposition  or  indifference  of  all  his 
associates,  he  urged  upon  Congress  the  necessity  of  a  government 
exploring  expedition  to  determine  positively  the  character  of  the 
great  wilderness  beyond  the  Missouri  River. 

After  repeated  effort,  he  obtained  an  appropriation  of  twenty- 
five  hundred  dollars  to  send  an  expedition  through  the  territory, 
being  careful  to  point  out  that  "the  interests  of  commerce  place 
the  principal  object  within  the  Constitutional  powers  and  duty  of 
Congress,"  though  regarding  the  Constitutional  power  for  the  pur- 
chase itself,  "the  less  said  the  better." 

His  private  secretary,  Captain  Meriwether  Lewis,  was  placed  in 
charge  of  the  expedition,  which  set  out  some  months  before  pur- 
chase was  made  sure.  The  exploration  of  the  northwestern  coun- 
try had  long  been  a  matter  of  great  personal  interest  to  Captam 
Lewis,  and  it  was  their  common  interest  in  the  matter,  no  doubt, 


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SACAJAWEA  117 

that  formed  the  bond  between  the  two  men.  By  request  of  Captam 
Lewis,  Captain  William  Clark  was  associated  with  him  in  the  un- 
r'ertaking.  He  was  an  officer  of  experience  and  ability,  especially 
in  Indian  warfare,  brother  to  George  Rogers  Clark,  the  hero  of  old 
Vincennes. 

In  the  fall  of  1803  the  two  officers  repaired  with  their  followers 
to  St.  Louis,  then  the  village  of  Pain  Court.  The  Spanish  com- 
mander at  St.  Louis  had  not  yet  received  official  notice  of  the  trans- 
fer of  the  country  to  France,  much  less  of  the  subsequent  sale  to  the 


SHARP  NOSE,  CHIEF  OP  THE  SHOSHONI 

L'nited  States.  He  would  not,  therefore,  allow  the  Americans  to  be 
quartered  in  the  territory ;  and  because  of  this  and  the  lateness  of  the 
season  they  passed  the  winter  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. In  March,  1804,  a  formal  transfer  of  the  upper  regions  of 
Louisiana  to  the  United  States  took  place  at  St.  Louis,  Captain 
Lewis  acting  as  one  of  the  officials  representing  the  government. 

On  May  14th  the  expedition  left  its  winter  quarters  and  set  sail 
up  the  Missouri  River.  More  than  two  years  were  to  elapse  be- 
fore it  would  again  return  to  civilization.  In  addition  to  the  neces- 
sary supplies,  it  carried  "fourteen  bales  and  one  box  of  Indian  pres- 


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118  OUT    WEST 

ents."  Late  in  October  th€  expedition  had  reached  a  point  not  far 
from  the  present  site  of  Bismarck,  North  Dakota,  and  here  it  was 
decided  to  remain  for  the  winter,  among  the  Mandan  Indians.  For 
future  dealings  with  the  Indians  an  interpreter  was  needed,  and 
the  officers  soon  secured  the  services  of  Toussaint  Charboneau,  "a 
man  of  no  pecuHar  merit,''  says  Captain  Lewis.  One  of  his  two 
wives  was  the  Shoshoni  Indian  girl,  Sacajawea,  whom  he  had 
bought  from  her  captors,  the  Minataree.  Charboneau  could  speak 
the  Dacotah  languages,  but  Sacajawea  could  speak  the  Shoshoni 
language  as  well,  which  was  even  more  important  to  the  expedi- 


GREAT  FALLS  OF  THE  MISSOURI  RIVBR,  FROM  ABOVE 

tion;  for,  while  it  could  push  its  way  through  the  country  of  the 
Sioux  by  its  own  resources,  it  must  depend  upon  the  Shoshoni  for 
horses  to  transport  the  baggage  and  for  guides  to  direct  them 
through  absolutely  unknown  mountains  to  navigable  streams  on 
the  Pacific  side.  Very  likely  these  considerations  led  the  young 
officers  to  select  Charboneau  rather  than  some  other  trapper  familiar 
with  Indian  language.  At  all  events,  and  fortunately  for  the  expe- 
dition, as  it  proved,  Charboneau  was  allowed  to  take  his  wife  along. 
Not  only  was  she  the  sole  female  in  the  company,  but  she  carried 

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SACAJAWEA  119 

on  her  back  in  a  net-work  basket  a  baby  boy,  born  but  two  months 
before  the  long  and  arduous  journey  began. 

It  is  not  the  present  purpose  to  record  in  detail  the  memorable 
journey  made  by  Captains  Lewis  and  Clark  and  their  hardy  fol- 
lowers ;  but  rather  to  recall  the  humble  part  played  in  it  by  the  simple 
but  faithful  Indian  woman,  Sacajawea.  In  the  smaller  of  their 
original  boats,  with  the  addition  of  simple  dugouts  specially  adapted 
to  their  purpose,  the  expedition  left  the  winter  quarters  at  Fort 
Mandan,  April  7,  1805.  Beside  Captains  Lewis  and  Clark,  there 
were  in  the  company  thirty-six  persons,  not  including  Sacajawea's 


GREAT  PALLS  OP  THB  MISSOUKI,  PROM  BELOW 

baby.  There  were  several  Canadian  and  Ohio  river  boatmen,  and 
two  or  three  hunters;  the  others  were  picked  men,  privates  in  the 
United  States  army.  Captain  Clark  took  along  a  negro  slave,  named 
York.  He  was,  without  doubt,  the  first  negro  to  go  up  the  Mis- 
souri River,  and  his  black  skin  and  curly  hair  attracted  wide-spread 
attention,  while  his  fame  traveled  faster  than  the  expedition.  More 
than  one  chief  brought  his  braves,  ostensibly  to  treat  with  the  white 
officers,  when  his  ill-concealed  curiosity  betrayed  that  he  was  far 
more  anxious  to  see  York  than  to  secure  the  friendship  and  protec- 
tion of  the  United  States. 


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120  OUT    WBST 

During  the  first  month  after  leaving  the  Mandans,  the  expedi- 
tion passed  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  and  came  to  the  Milk 
River,  so  named  by  Captain  Lewis  from  the  color  of  its  waters.  To 
the  Indians  it  was  known  as  "the  river  that  scolds  at  all  others/' 
Here  an  accident  occurred  that  in  its  results  redounded  more  to  the 
credit  of  Sacajawea  than  to  her  spouse.  The  boat  steered  by  Char- 
boneau,  "the  worst  steersman  of  the  party,"  was  capsized.  Unfor- 
tunately it  contained  all  the  "papers,  instruments,  medicines,  and 
almost  every  article  indispensable  to  the  success  of  the  enterprise.'' 


CITADRL  ROCK,  MISSOURI  RIVER 


"The  Indian  woman,"  says  Captain  Lewis,  "to  whom  I  ascribe  equal 
fortitude  and  resolution  with  any  person  on  board  at  the  time  of  the 
accident,  caught  and  preserved  most  of  the  light  articles  which  were 
washed  overboard."  The  boat  and  its  valuable  cargo  being  saved, 
it  was  thought  "a  proper  occasion  to  console  ourselves,  and  we  ac- 
cordingly took  a  drink." 

Sacajawea's  reward  came  the  following  day,  when  "a  handsome 
river  about  fifty  yards  wide"  was  named  "Sacajawea's  River."  The 
honor  was  not  destined  to  be  permanent,  however,  for  the  stream 
is  known  to  modern  maps  as  Crooked  Creek.     "Judith's  River," 


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PAU8ADB8  OP  CLARK*8  FORKS 


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SACAJ A  IVEA  123 

passed  a  few  days  later,  was  named  for  the  young  lady  who  subse- 
quently became  the  wife  of  Captain  Clark.  Her  name  still  graces 
the  river,  and  has  been  added  to  the  great  valley  through  which  it 
flows,  as  well  as  to  some  noble  mountains  near  its  banks. 

As  the  party  proceeded,  many  plants  and  animals  new  to  science 
were  discovered ;  most  interesting  of  these,  perhaps,  was  the  grizzly 
bear,  with  which  the  men,  armed  with  their  clumsy  flint-locked  guns, 
had  many  a  perilous  and  exciting  battle.  From  the  Minataree  In- 
dians, possibly  the  captors  of  Sacajawea,  the  leaders  of  the  party 
had  learned  that  the  Missouri  River  would  take  them  far  up  into  the 
Rocky  Mountain  country;  but  long  before  the  journey  in  boats 
would  end  they  would  reach  some  immense  falls  in  the  river,  around 
which  the  boats  must  be  taken  by  land.  When  the  mouth  of  Maria's 
River  was  reached,  June  3rd,  it  became  an  important  question  as  to 
which  of  the  two  streams  was  the  real  Missouri.  They  were  of 
nearly  equal  volume,  and  both  apparently  headed  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  now  plainly  visible  from  the  bluffs.  Small  parties  were 
sent  up  both  streams  to  reconnoitre.  On  their  return  a  few  days 
later  a  general  council  was  held,  at  which  it  developed  that  all  the 
men  believed  the  northerly  stream  to  be  the  Missouri,  while  the  two 
officers  believed  the  westerly  stream  was  the  one  to  follow.  A  mis- 
take would  probably  be  fatal  to  the  success  of  the  expedition,  which 
must  cross  the  mountains  during  the  months  of  summer  and  early 
autumn. 

Accordingly,  Captain  Lewis,  taking  four  men  and  leaving  the 
main  party  at  the  forks  of  the  rivers,  set  out  on  foot  in  a  south- 
westerly direction,  determined  to  find  the  falls  described  by  the 
Indians  or  follow  the  stream  to  the  mountains.  On  the  third  day, 
as  he  was  walking  some  distance  from  the  river,  he  was  greatly 
cheered  by  the  sound  of  a  distant  roaring  of  water,  and  following 
its  direction  for  a  few  miles  came  to  the  banks  of  the  river  and 
hurrying  down  the  steep  bluffs,  seated  himself  on  the  rocks  and  "en- 
joyed the  sublime  spectacle"  of  the  great  falls,  vainly  regretting  that 
he  had  not  brought  along  a  "cimera  obscrua."  Captain  Lewis 
pushed  on  alone  up  the  river,  finding  a  series  of  magnificent  falls 
in  the  course  of  a  few  miles,  and  finally  reaching  the  upper  falls, 
which  he  recognized  by  the  tall  cottonwood  tree,  growing  on  an 
island,  in  the  branches  of  which  a  black-eagle  had  built  her  nest, 
as  the  Indians  had  told  him.  The  falls  are  still  known  as  Black 
Eagle  Falls,  and  their  waters  move  the  wheels  of  the  modern  city 
of  Great  Falls,  Montana. 

Captain  Lewis  had  solved  the  problem  of  the  proper  course  to 
pursue.  Accordingly  the  main  party  was  brought  up  the  Missouri, 
to  Portage  (now  Belt)  Creek,  where  preparations  were  made  to 
carry  the  boats  and  baggage  around  the  falls.     To  the  northerly 


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124  OUT    WEST 

stream  Captain  Lewis  gave  the  name  Maria's  River,  for  Miss  Maria 
Wood.  *'It  is  true,"  he  said,  "that  the  hue  of  the  waters  of  this 
turbulent  and  troubled  stream  but  illy  comport  with  the  pure  celes- 
tial beauties  and  amiable  qualifications  of  that  lovely  fair  one,  but  it 
is  a  noble  river/*  On  the  return  of  Captain  Lewis  he  found  Saca- 
jawea  quite  ill,  which  gave  him  "great  concern  as  well  for  the  the 
poor  object  herself  then  with  a  young  child  in  her  arms,  as  from 
consideration  of  her  being  our  only  dependence  for  a  friendly  nego- 
tiation with  the  Snake  Indians,  upon  whom  we  depend  for  horses 
to  assist  us  in  our  portage  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Columbia  River.'* 
Fortunately  a  "large  sulphur  spring"  was  found  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  opposite  Portage  Creek,  and  Sacajawea  "found  great  relief 


RAINBOW  FALLS,  MISSOURI   RIVER 


from  the  mineral  water."  Subsequently  she  suffered  a  relapse, 
caused  by  eating  wild  berries,  and  for  a  time  her  life  was  despaired 
of,  but  she  finally  recovered. 

To  carry  the  boats  and  baggage  around  the  falls  required  a 
portage  of  eighteen  miles,  across  plains  thickly  covered  with  prickly- 
pears.  The  heat  was  well-nigh  intolerable,  the  toil  severe.  Two 
weeks  were  occupied  in  making  the  portage,  though  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  baggage  was  left  in  a  cache  near  the  sulphur  spring. 
On  July  4th,  Independence  Day  was  celebrated  for  the  first  time 
in  the  Rocky  Mountain  country.  The  last  of  the  stock  of  rum  was 
distributed  to  the  men  in  honor  of  the  occasion.    Captain  Lewis  had 


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SACAJ  A  WE  A  125 

brought  from  Harper's  Ferry  the  iron  frame  of  a  boat  to  be  cov- 
ered with  skins.  After  causing  a  delay  of  several  days  and  much 
labor,  the  "Experiment,"  as  the  boat  was  called,  was  abandoned  as 
unseaworthy. 

On  July  15th,  the  expedition  again  set  out  up  the  Missouri  River, 
passing  and  naming  Smith  and  Dearborn  Rivers  in  the  next  three 
days,  and  arriving,  July  19th,  at  the  romantic  gorge  still  known  as 
the  Gates  of  the  Mountains.  Three  days  later  the  party  passed  a 
small  stream,  now  called  Beaver  Creek,  and  was  delighted  to  find 
that  Sacajawea  recognized  the  country,  and  said  that  her  country- 
men came  to  this  creek  to  procure  white  paint  from  its  banks.  She 
also  stated  that  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri  were  not  far  ahead. 
Captain  Clark,  with  two  or  three  men,  went  ahead  by  land,  in  order 


BAST  BNTRANCB  TO  HOR8B  PI.AINS,  MONTANA 

to  meet  the  Indians  and  treat  with  them,  if  possible,  before  the  main 
party  should  arrive.  In  this,  however,  he  was  not  successful,  though 
he  found  many  recent  tracks  of  Indians  and  horses.  July  27th,  the 
main  party  reached  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri,  two  days  behind 
Captain  Clark,  who  joined  it  the  same  day,  very  ill  from  fever.  The 
name  Missouri  was  now  discontinued,  and  the  three  forks  received 
the  names,  Jefferson,  Madison  and  Gallatin  Rivers.  A  camp  was 
located  about  one  mile  above  the  forks  on  the  western  and  largest 
branch,  the  Jefferson.  Curiously  enough,  the  site  of  the  camp,  ac- 
cording to  Sacajawea,  was  precisely  the  spot  on  which  she  and  her 
friend  were  encamped  at  the  time  of  her  capture  five  years  before. 
With  the  proverbial  stoicism  of  her  race  she  did  not  "show  any  dis- 
tress at  these  recollections  or  any  joy  at  the  prospect  of  being  re- 
stored to  her  country.'' 


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A  CLEFT   AMONG   THK  PINNACLES 


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127 

THE   PINACLES   OF  SAN   BENITO 
COUNTY 

By  SCHUYLER  G,  MAIN 

ANCOUVER,  in   1794,  wrote  of  the  rock  pinnacles  of 
what   is   now    San    Benito   County,   California,   as,   '*the 
most  remarkable  mountain  I  have  ever  seen."    At  the 
present  time  there  is  a  movement  under  way  to  have 
15,000  acres,  embracing  the  heart  of  this  interesting 
region,  set  aside  as  a  national  park,  that  its  beauty  may 
be  permanently  preserved  and  guarded.     The  Secretary  of  the 
Interior  has  withdrawn  the  tract  from  entry,  pending  Congres- 
sional action. 

The  entrance  to  the  proposed  park  is  not  unlike  the  doorway 
to  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  but  on  a  grander  scale.  Here  the 
cliflFs  of  many-colored  rock  rise  hundreds  of  feet  in  sharply  de- 
fined terraces,  or  great  domes  and  pinnacles.  Beyond,  scattered 
over  an  area  of  some  six  square  miles,  is  a  mass  of  conglomerate 
rocks  wonderful  in  extent  and  in  fantastic  variety  of  form  and 
coloring. 

Two  much-broken  water  courses  cut  the  northern  and  south- 
ern ends  of  the  mountain,  breaking  into  deep  chasms  filled  with 
the  debris  of  old  slides,  in  which  are  dark,  rock-covered  caves, 
still  for  the  most  part  of  unknown  extent,  and  pools  of  water  of 
varying  depth,  left  by  the  winter  rains. 


*  HEART  POOL,'*  IN  CAVE  IN  BEAR  CAffON 


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128  OUT    WEST 

The  main  features  of  the  entire  region  are  the  massive  walls 
and  towering  rock-peaks,  and  the  deep,  narrow-walled  canons 
through  which  the  foot-trails  wind. 

The  two  main  gorges  are  more  frequently  seen  by  visitors  and 
the  trip  through  either  of  them  can  be  made  in  a  day  with  time 
to  spare ;  but  the  explorer  may  wander  for  weeks  among  the  side 
canons  and  upper  rocks,  seeing  something  new  each  day.  To 
the  right  of  the  northern  water  course,  which  is  the  one  fol- 
lowed by  the  principal  trail,  rises  "Palisade  Rock,"  about  fifteen 
hundred  feet  from  base  to  summit;  terraced  back  in  great  steps 
and  ledges  over  which  in  rainy  seasons  swift  little  streams  leap 


ABOVE  PINNACLB  CAVBS 

(Rock  in  foreirroaad  250  feet  in  diameter.) 

and  plunge  and  are  beaten  to  white  clouds  of  spray  along  the 
cliffs  below.  From  one  spot  eight  of  these  brief,  beautiful  water- 
falls may  be  counted  without  turning. 

A  little  distance  beyond  this  pass  the  canon  widens  out  to  a 
small  valley,  and  fronting  the  valley  is  the  cliff-ringed  amphi- 
theater named  for  President  Jordan  of  Stanford.  Here  Nature 
seems  to  have  taken  the  most  methodical  care  in  setting  on  end 
hundreds  of  rock  pinnacles,  rising  tier  on  tier  till  the  topmost 
procession,  nearly  a  mile  away,  is  i,8oo  feet  above  the  little 
valley. 

Opposite  "Painted  Rock"  is  the  "Bridal  Chamber,"  a  circular 


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A   MONUMKNT  NOT  MADB  WITH   HANDS 


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130  OUT    WEST 

area  entered  through  a  narrow  gorge.  The  perpendicular  walls 
are  from  150  to  300  feet  high,  and  in  the  rainy  season  a  small 
stream  sweeps  over  the  highest  point  and  is  dashed  along  the 
ledges  in  a  veil  of  filmy  mist,  covering  most  of  the  enclosed 
space. 

Beyond  the  little  valley  and  the  "Jordan  Amphitheatre,"  the 
rocky  walls  assume  strange  and  fantastic  shapes  and  each  turn 
in  the  trail  reveals  some  new  beauty  and  wonder. 

The  southern  water  course,  called  Bear  Canon,  is  less  known 
than  the  northern  one,  but  not  less  beautiful.  A  mile  from  its 
junction  with  Cholone  Creek  the  stream  bed  is  entirely  filled  with 


AMONG  THB  PINNACLES 


fallen  rocks  and  the  trail  turns  to  the  left  and  comes  by  a  steep 
and  difficult  grade  to  ^^Inspiration  Point."  Here  the  explorer 
looks  down  on  the  tops  of  tall  trees  growing  far  below,  while 
above  the  great  cliff-walls  are  capped  by  slender  spires  and  pin- 
nacles and  gfroups  of  weather-worn  rocks  like  statuary. 

From  Inspiration  Point  the  trail  descends  again  to  the  creek 
bed;  winding  under  rock-slabs  caught  roof-like  in  the  narrow 
walls,  over  logs  and  boulders  and  through  underbrush,  ending  at 
last  in  a  little  dim-lighted  cave  beyond  which  there  is  no  passage 
except  by  retracing  part  of  the  way  and  climbing  out  to  the  right 
over  a  narrow  ledge  to  the  gorge  ahead. 


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AT  THB   HBAKT  OF   THB  PINNACLES 


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132  OUT    WEST 

Here  is  the  largest  cave  yet  discovered,  some  sixty  by  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet,  and  roofed  over  by  a  cube-shaped  rock 
two  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  on  the  top  of  which  a  tall  pine 
tree  is  growing.  Beyond  this  largest  cave  are  others,  some 
dimly  lighted,  some  dark  and  damp — the  home  of  night  birds 
and  innumerable  bats. 

The  winter  rains  leave  pools  of  water  here  and  there  in  the 
caves,  the  largest  being  "Heart  Pool,"  lying  in  a  deep,  heart- 
shaped  depression  worn  in  rock  of  adamantine  hardness. 

Beyond  the  caves  the  gorge  widens  to  open  country  dotted 
with  rock  groups  in  many  interesting  and  suggestive  shapes, 


PIVOT  ROCK 


among  them  "Pivot  Rock,"  like  a  huge  anvil  of  sandstone. 

A  few  of  these  are  accessible  and  the  view  from  the  top  is 
worth  the  climb,  but  most  of  them  are  still  unsealed,  though 
seldom  impossible  to  an  experienced  climber. 

From  the  top  of  Cholone  Peak  the  view  reaches  from  the 
Coast  Range  to  the  blue  of  ocean,  where,  on  a  clear  day  with  a 
good  glass,  the  breakers  may  be  seen  rolling  in  along  the  beach. 
Between  mountains  and  sea  lies  the  beautiful  expanse  of  Salinas 
Valley,  dotted  with  farms  and  towns,  with  the  Salinas  river 
winding  the  whole  length  of  the  view. 

Pinnacle  Park  is  thirty-five  miles  by  wagon  road  from  the 

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A     TRANSPLANTED    BATTLE  133 

town  of  Hollister,  and  is  easily  reached  from  that  point.  It  has 
much  to  offer  all  comers;  for  the  camper;  sheltered  nooks,  great 
trees,  wood  and  water  and  grass  in  convenient  reach;  for  the 
hunter,  quail  and  occasional  deer;  for  the  scientist  of  whatever 
mind,  strange  rocks,  many  flowers,  and  birds  in  variety;  and  for 
the  nature-lover,  varied  beauty  at  every  turn,  from  deep  banks  of 
fern  in  the  hidden  places  of  the  cations  to  the  great  rock  domes 
and  pinnacles  that  give  the  place  its  name. 

Cook.Cal. 

A  TRANSPLANTED  BATTLE 

By  R.  W,  HOFFLUND 

R.  THOMAS  JONES,  manager  of  the  K.  and  M. 
Fruit  Company's  thousand-acre  orchard  and 
vineyard,  turned  in  his  chair  and  tossed  the 
newspaper  he  had  been  reading  into  the  waste- 
basket.  The  scowl  on  his  face,  and  the  con- 
temptuous manner  in  which  he  disposed  of  the 
sheet,  indicated  that  something  in  its  columns 
had  met  with  his  disapproval.  His  viciousness 
in  biting  off  the  end  of  a  cigar,  and  the  caressing 
glance  he  bestowed  upon  a  metal  paper-weight, 
told  of  possible  trouble  in  store  for  the  writer  of  the  offensive  ar- 
ticle. 

Ever  since  he  had  taken  control  of  the  big  ranch,  Jones  had  been 
confronted  by  the  problem  of  securing  laborers  who  were  willing 
and  able  to  do  the  work  demanded  of  them.  Chinamen  who  could 
not  handle  horses,  Mexicans  who  could  not  keep  sober,  and  Indians 
who  could  not  do  anything  had  drifted  through  the  K.  and  M.  pay- 
office,  and  had  made  the  ranch  the  scene  of  a  constant  struggle  on 
the  part  of  Jones  and  his  handful  of  capable  assistants  against  in- 
competency and  laziness.  Finally  the  manager  had  returned  from 
one  of  his  'Frisco  trips  with  a  cargo  of  Japs — small,  wiry  men,  who 
made  up  in  intelligence  what  they  lacked  in  stature.  Contrary  to 
the  profanely  expressed  opinion  of  Big  Tim  Fogarty,  the  foreman, 
they  had  quickly  learned  the  routine  of  ranch  work,  and  for  a  time 
everything  had  gone  well. 

But  a  manager  is  paid  to  overcome  difficulties.  It  follows  that 
when  he  has  succeeded  in  overcoming  a  series  of  them,  new  ones 
must  be  provided,  or  he  fails  to  earn  his  pay.  Jones  had  long  felt 
the  working  of  this  natural  law,  and  had  no  idea  that  he  would  be 
permitted  to  rest  in  peace.  But  the  undermining  of  his  latest  suc- 
cess was  brought  about  by  a  condition  apparently  so  easy  to  meet 
and  overcome,  that  the  manager  was  unusually  irritated  by  the 
futiUty  of  his  efforts  in  that  direction.  ^.^.^.^^^  ^^  GoOgk 


134  OUT    WEST 

La  Salida,  the  town  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  boasted  a  weekly 
paper  whose  proprietor,  Macgregor  by  name,  had  served  on  the 
staff  of  a  city  daily  famous  for  its  "yellowness."  He  had  brought 
to  his  rural  retreat  an  insatiable  desire  to  build  up  a  sensation  on  the 
weakest  of  foundations,  and  had  fallen  into  the  habit  of  reprinting 
brief  telegraphic  dispatches  from  his  "patent  inside''  on  the  front 
page,  with  many  embellishments  and  appropriate  scare-heads. 

When  the  difficulty  between  Japan  and  Russia  became  the  feature 
of  foreign  news,  Macgregor  found  many  opportunities  to  exercise 
his  talent  in  this  line,  and  had  declared  war  almost  as  often  as  his 
metropolitan  rivals,  in  type  fully  as  heavy,  when  the  gradual  slip- 
ping away  of  his  men  caused  Jones  to  make  an  investigation.  He 
quickly  learned  the  truth.  The  Japs  were  going  back  to  fight  for 
their  native  land  and  share  in  the  glory  that  they  believed  to  be 
already  showering  upon  it. 

While  Jones  was  still  scowling  over  the  newspaper,  Fogarty 
walked  into  the  office  at  his  usual  leisurely  pace.  "Two  more!"  he 
said.  "Leaves  me  shy  a  man  to  watch  the  water,  unless  I  cut  down 
the  prunin'  gang,  which  is  too  small  now.  Begob!"  he  added  vio- 
lently, "av  this  don't  shtop,  you  an*  me  will  have  to  go  to  work.  Did 
ye  see  the  lyin'  coyote  that  runs  that  paper?" 

Jones  smiled  grimly.  "I  did,  Tim,"  he  answered.  "I  told  him  to 
cut  it  out  or  we'd  sue  him.  But  what's  the  use  ?  There  is  trouble 
over  there,  all  right,  and  they  get  enough  through  the  San  Diego 
papers  to  make  'em  excited.    Mac  merely  hurries  things  along." 

"I  hope  ye  scart  him  good,  anyhow,"  said  Big  Tim,  "so  he'll  get 
more  cautious  wid  his  ink.  Av  he  was  to  have  a  bad  dream  some 
night,  an'  write  a  article  sayin'  the  Mickyado  was  offerin'  a  thou- 
sand dollars  to  any  Amerrican  Jap  that  smelled  bad  enough  to  get 
into  the  R'yal  Guard,  our  b'ys  would  vamos  in  a  bunch,  knowin' 
they'd  qualify.  I  saw  Rodriguez  this  noon,"  Fogarty  went  on,  sud- 
denly changing  his  bantering  manner  to  one  more  business-like,  "an' 
he's  drunk  as  usual.  'Will  ^our  men  take  the  job?'  says  L  'Si, 
patron!*  says  the  coffee-colored  thief.  'MananaJ  Tomorrow — 
that's  always  the  word  wid  him  an'  his  Dagoes.  He's  locked  'em  up 
in  the  jail  so  they  won't  get  arristed,  but  he  brings  'em  in  the  tangle- 
fut  at  night,  an'  tomorrow  they'll  be  drunker  than  they  are  today. 
We'll  be  lucky  av  they  show  up  in  a  month.  Miguel's  crew  is  puttin' 
in  grain  on  the  Bony  VSsty,  an'  the  only  thing  left  is  Peg-leg  Charlie 
an'  his  bucks.  I  can  get  tin  av  them  Monday,  wid  Peg-leg  to  straw- 
boss,  an'  two  squaws  av  we  want  'em  to  prune." 

"Take  them,"  said  Jones,  decisively.  "Tell  him  the  two  squaws 
draw  one  pay,  and  put  'em  all  to  pruning.  That  gives  you  a  Jap 
for  the  water  and  two  extra  for  the  teams — if  they  stay  till  then. 
Rodriguez  may  sober  up  in  the  meantime."  He  drew  from  a  pigeon-r 

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A    TRANSPLANTED    BATTLH  135 

hole  a  chart  showing  the  location  of  the  field  force,  and  asked  a 
number  of  questions  regarding  the  progress  of  the  work.  The 
foreman  answered  these  briefly  and  satisfactorily,  and  got  up  to 
leave.  At  the  door  he  hesitated,  and  turned  to  his  superior  with  a 
grin  that  would  have  looked  bashful  on  a  smaller  man.  Jones  had 
begun  a  letter  in  regard  to  a  strike' in  Kansas  City  that  threatened 
to  "tie  up"  a  car  of  lemons  until  they  rotted,  and  his  irritable 
htrnior  bad  seized  him  again. 

"If  you  have  anything  to  say,  say  it,"  he  ordered;  "and  don't 
stand  there  like  an  overgrown  bale  of  hay.  If  it's  more  bad  news, 
keep  it  to  yourself.  Fm  too  busy  to  be  bothered  unless  it's  neces- 
sary." 

Fogarty  braced  up  immediately.  "It's  no  news  at  all,"  he  said. 
Only  an  idea  that's  been  in  me  head  for  some  time,  an'  is  gettin* 
lonesome.  I've  been  rayvolvin'  a  scheme  to  keep  these  Japs  where 
they  belong,  an'  was  only  wantin'  your  leave  to  try  it." 

"Well,  what  is  it?"  asked  Jones,  curtly. 

"I  was  thinkin',"  Fogarty  went  on,  with  a  twinkle  in  his  eye,  "that 
av  I  was  to  tell  ye,  ye'd  be  sayin'  me  head  was  turned  be  me  troubles, 
mebbe,  or  similar  insultin'  remarks.  Now,  I  would  rather  have  the 
permission  widout  restrictions,  promisin'  to  put  the  company  to  no 
expense,  an'  yourself  to  no  trouble." 

"Take  it  and  be  hanged,"  said  Jones.  "There's  a  shot-gun  in  my 
bed-room,  if  it  will  help  you  any.     Now  get  out !" 

"Mucha  'blige,"  replied  Fogarty,  "as  Rodriguez  said  when  I  told 
him  his  father  was  a  hawse-thief.  I  don't  need  your  gun,  but  be- 
gob!"  he  added  to  himself  as  the  door  closed,  "I'll  raise  more  hell 
wid  these  little  yellow  boys  than  a  man  could  blow  out  av  twinty 
shot-guns  an'  a  torpedo-boat.  Rooshia  can  prepare  to  move  off  the 
map." 

Next  morning,  after  watching  the  teamsters  file  out  with  their 
shivering  horses,  and  after  turning  over  to  the  stable-man  the  reins 
of  power,  Fogarty  mounted  his  bronco  and  passed  slowly  down  the 
broad  road  that  divided  the  K.  and  M.  vineyard  like  a  strip  of  white 
paint.  On  each  side  palms  alternated  with  cypress  trees,  and  back 
of  them  the  vines,  robbed  of  their  long  canes,  stood  in  rows  of 
gnarled,  twisted  stumps.  For  a  mile  this  continued ;  then  the  road 
turned  sharply  toward  the  grain  fields  that  surrounded  La  Salida, 
and  here  Fogarty  left  it  to  cut  through  an  orchard  of  orange-laden 
trees  to  a  trail  that  wound  in  and  out  through  the  sage-brush  hills 
like  a  carelessly  thrown  rope.  Following  this  until  it  had  led  him 
over  the  highest  peak  of  the  encircling  mountains,  he  turned  at  length 
into  a  wide  cypress-guarded  avenue  that  branched  off  at  a  right 
angle  to  the  path. 

It  was  the  drive-way  of  a  solitary  mountain  ranch  that  was 


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136  OUT    WEST 

little  known  to  the  valley  folk  except  by  the  quality  of  its  apples, 
which  were  famous  throughout  the  state.  A  colony  of  Russian 
emigrants  worked  the  land  under  the  leadership  of  a  man  who 
had  the  ability,  rare  in  a  rural  community,  to  remain  silent  as  to 
his  personal  history  and  affairs,  and  who  was,  in  consequence, 
the  object  of  much  speculative  gossip.  Fogarty  had  met  him  in 
a  business  interview,  and  had  come  to  know  him  well;  liking 
this  very  quality  of  reserve,  and  greatly  admiring  the  Russian's 
capacity  for  getting  work  out  of  his  men  without  doing  any  him- 
self. 

As  Big  Tim  rode  up  this  man  was  seated  in  an  arm-chair  on 
the  veranda  of  a  comfortable-looking  ranch-house,  with  a  coffee- 
pot and  a  bundle  of  newspapers  on  a  tabouret  at  his  side.  He 
rose  and  greeted  his  visitor  effusively. 

"My  dear  friend  Fogarty!"  he  exclaimed,  pushing  forth  a 
wicker  chair.  "It  is  a  long  time  since  I  last  had  the  pleasure 
of  welcoming  you  to  my  mountain  fastness.  Will  you  join  me 
in  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  cigarette?" 

"A  cup  av  coffee  would  be  most  agreeable,"  said  Big  Tim, 
"to  lay  the  dust  in  me  throat.  But  wid  your  permission  I  will 
shmoke  me  pipe.  Tm  afraid  them  deadly  little  cigareets  might 
stunt  me  growth." 

The  Russian  laughed  heartily.  "You  are  in  no  need  of  them," 
he  explained.  "You  are  always  at  work.  To  me  they  are  of 
great  assistance  in  passing  idle  hours.  This  morning,  however, 
I  have  had  much  entertainment  aside  from  narcotics.  This  lit- 
tle paper — "  he  picked  up  the  latest  Courier — "is  a  gold  mine  of 
humor.  I  have  greatly  enjoyed  comparing  the  writings  of  our 
friend  below  with  those  in  the  San  Diego  and  Los  Angeles 
papers.  They  do  not  agree.  Our  friend  Macgregor  has  vastly 
what  you  call  imagination,  is  it  not?" 

"It  is,"  said  Fogarty,  dryly.  "He's  a  dom  liar!  I  rode  up 
this  mornin',  Mr.  Vilakoff,  to  talk  over  this  very  matter  wid  you. 
His  lies  are  causin'  us  no  ind  av  trouble." 

"Indeed?"  questioned  the  Russian.  "It  is  most  unfortunate. 
Rely  on  me  to  the  extent  of  my  ability,  of  course,  if  I  can  be  of 
assistance." 

Fogarty  did  not  reply  at  once,  but  allowed  his  eyes  to  glance 
in  a  rambling  way  over  the  trees  and  vines  near  the  house  to 
the  distant  grain  fields. 

"How  many  men  have  ye  got  up  here?"  he  asked  suddenly. 
"About  thirty." 

"Are  they  leavin'  ye,  or  threatenin'  to  leave  on  account  av  the 
possibility  av  war?" 


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A    TRANSPLANTED    BATTLE  137 

A  troubled  look  came  into  Vilakoff's  eyes.  "A  few  of  them 
have  gone,"  he  answered,  "and  I  am  afraid  that  more  will  follow. 
I  am  doing  my  best  to  check  it,  but  my  men  are  uneasy  and 
difficult  to  handle.  They  do  not  read  English,  and  the  rumors 
they  get  are  distorted  and  foolish." 

Fogarty  regarded  him  narrowly.  "Ye're  not  thinkin'  av  goin' 
back  yerself  ?"  he  asked. 

The  Russian  smiled  bitterly.  "The  idea  has  not  occurred  to 
me,"  he  replied.  "In  confidence,  Mr.  Fogarty,  I  am  from  Poland, 
not  from  Russia.  An  Irishman,  you  will  undoubtedly  under- 
stand the  distinction." 

Fogarty  did  not  understand  it,  but  accepted  the  allusion  to 
the  land  of  his  birth  as  a  compliment,  and  bowed  his  acknowl- 
edgment. 

"  'Tis  sure  hard  luck,"  he  murmured,  ambiguously ;  "but  I 
am  glad  ye're  not  goin'  to  leave  us.  Wid  no  more  beatin*  around 
the  bush,"  he  continued,  settling  himself  in  his  chair,  "I'll  come 
to  the  object  av  me  visit.  Here's  you  wid  thirty  men  achin'  to 
cross  the  ocean  an'  lick  Japan.  Here's  me  wid  thirty  Japs  fret- 
tin'  to  go  home  an'  conquer  Roosia.  Now,  what's  the  objection 
to  these  sixty  ambitious  gladiators  gettin'  togither  right  here  in 
California  an'  fightin'  it  out?  'T would  be  no  loss  to  either  side, 
an* — an' "  Big  Tim  racked  his  brain  for  an  additional  argu- 
ment— "an'  'twould  save  the  divil  av  a  lot  av  car-fare.  An'  the 
survivors  could  go  back  to  wotk  feelin'  they  had  done  their  best 
for  their  rayspective  homes  an'  countries,  wid  no  prolonged  ab- 
sence from  their  jobs." 

The  Russian  looked  at  Fogarty  with  a  bewildered  expression 
that  changed  rapidly  to  one  of  merriment.  Finally  he  burst  into 
a  peal  of  laughter. 

"Pardon  me,  my  friend,"  he  exclaimed.  "But  your  plan  is  so 
stupendous — so  simple — so  impossible !  Have  you  then  consid- 
ered the  authorities?" 

Big  Tim  had  expected  this  question.  "The  authorities  in  the 
valley,"  he  said,  gravely,  "consist  av  wan  under-sized  constable 
that  I  owe  tin  dollars,  an'  who  treats  me  like  a  pet  orphan. 
Also,"  Fogarty  went  on,  somewhat  embarrassed  by  the  confes- 
sion, "he  knows  that  when  I  am  under  the  inflooence  av  stimu- 
latin'  bev —  av  alcoholic  shtim —  av  bug-jooce,  ye  understand,  I 
recognize  me  friends  wid  an  unerrin'  eye,  an'  am  inclined  to  get 
familiar  wid  me  enemies.  In  the  int'rust  av  law  an'  order  at 
round-ups  he  is  careful  to  be  numbered  wid  me  friends.  He 
wouldn't  interfere  av  I  was  to  ring  in  the  Greasers  an'  make  it 
three-cornered.  Besides,  he  will  niver  know  a  thing  about  it 
till  it's  all  over.     Av  course,"  he  added  hastily,  "I  have  no  intin- 


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138  OUT    WEST 

tion  av  givin'  them  artillery.  Let  'em  fight  it  out  man  to  man, 
face  to  face,  an'  the  divil  take  the  slowest  runner." 

For  an  hour  he  pleaded  his  cause,  reducing  VillakoflF  to  a 
state  of  amused  approval  of  the  theory  of  the  plan.  In  this 
frame  of  mind  the  Russian  broached  the  subject  to  some  of  his 
men,  and  returned  to  the  veranda  with  a  grave  look  in  his  eyes. 

"My  friend,"  he  said,  quietly,  "you  appear  to  understand  the 
peasant  mind  better  than  I.  My  men  are  not  only  willing,  but 
anxious,  to  let  their  patriotism  take  this  vent,  and  to  abide  by 
the  result.  That  being  the  case,  I  cease  to  laugh,  and  will  help 
you  to  bring  the  enemies  together." 

The  battle-ground  selected  was  a  stretch  of  level  land  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills ;  well  off  the  road,  and  screened  from  the  valley 
by  a  grove  of  eucalyptus.  To  this  peaceful  spot  Fogarty  led 
his  cohort  one  Sunday  morning,  and  turned  over  the  command 
to  a  wizened  Jap  whose  flowery  name  had  been  converted  by 
Big  Tim  to  "Saturday  Night" — a  reflection  on  his  convivial 
habits.  The  Russian  army  was  already  in  place,  rolling  cigar- 
ettes and  listening  respectfully  to  a  mock-heroic  address  by 
Villakoff,  who  seemed  to  regard  the  affair  as  a  bit  of  colossal 
childishness  which  he  was  willing  to  uphold  for  the  sake  of  a 
possible  advantage,  and  a  certain  source  of  amusement.  He 
waved  his  hand  gracefully  to  Fogarty,  and  the  two  stepped  to 
one  side  to  make  the  final  arrangements.  These  were  quickly 
concluded — as  Big  Tim  had  said,  "The  Marquis  av  Queensbury 
will  not  be  among  those  prisent" — ^the  signal  was  given,  and  the 
conflict  was  on. 

It  is  not  the  purpose  of  this  brief  history  to  describe  in  detail 
the  scene  of  carnage,  nor  to  dwell  upon  the  heroism  of  "Satur- 
day Night"  and  his  followers  and  the  reckless  courage  of  their 
sturdy  foes.  It  is  enough  to  say  that  for  five  minutes  the  dust 
rose  in  clouds  from  the  struggling  men,  that  some  were  knocked 
down  and  trampled  upon,  and  that  the  violence  of  the  fight 
brought  a  touch  of  terror  to  its  only  witnesses.  It  must  be  ad- 
mitted that  Big  Tim  quickly  got  over  his  feeling  of  responsi- 
bility, and  shouted  encouragement  to  his  men  in  tones  that  in- 
dicated great  excitement  rather  than  fear;  but  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  neither  he  nor  his  fellow  conspirator  had  quite  realized  the 
result  of  turning  loose  sixty  men  whose  strongest  racial  feeling 
was  a  violent  hatred  of  each  other. 

For  five  minutes,  then,  noses  were  broken  and  heads  were 
slammed  on  the  ground  in  the  manner  of  a  St.  Patrick's  Day 
celebration,  but  without  the  hilarity  that  checks  fatal  results 
at  that  festive  time.  Villakoff  was  beginning:  to  wonder  if  he 
would  not  do  well  to  call  a  halt  before  anyone  was  killed,  when 


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A     TRANSPLANTED    BATTLE  139 

he  felt  a  touch  on  his  elbow,  and  turned  to  see  a  new  witness  of 
the  fight  at  his  side. 

It  was  Macg^egor.  Ill-starred  manufacturer  of  news  and 
brewer  of  trouble,  he  had  learned  of  the  intended  meeting  through 
a  chance  remark  of  "Saturday  Night,"  and,  ever  zealous  in  the 
pursuit  of  space-filling  information,  had  witnessed  the  dust  of 
battle  from  afar  and  pedalled  post-haste  to  the  scene.  Note- 
book in  hand,  his  limbs  trembling  with  excitement,  he  stood  on 
the  edge  of  the  battle  and  took  in  its  awfulness  with  greedy 
eyes. 

Fogarty,  worked  up  to  the  fighting  frenzy  that  is  the  peculiar 
quality  of  Celtic  blood,  saw  the  printer's  red  hair  over  a  sea  of 
tossing  arms  and  legs,  recognized  a  sworn  foe,  and  stopped  in 
the  middle  of  a  wild  halloo.  For  a  moment  his  fists  beat  the  air 
like  the  piston-rods  of  an  engine  working  up  steam ;  then,  finish- 
ing his  yell  and  adding  a  mighty  war-whoop,  he  tore  straight 
for  his  prey,  brushing  aside  the  Russians  in  his  path  as  though 
they  were  troublesome  insects. 

Villakoflf  was  madly  pushing  the  frightened  printer  away  when 
the  apparition  burst  upon  them.  Weakly  warding  off  danger 
with  uplifted  arm,  the  Russian  was  hurled  to  the  ground;  and 
Macgregor  received  the  full  impact  of  the  terrible  rush.  The 
printer  doubled  up  as  though  his  body  were  hinged,  dropped  to 
the  ground,  and  lay  still;  while  Fogarty,  regardless  of  interna- 
tional law  and  of  previous  agreement,  turned  to  devote  his  at- 
tention to  the  struggling  mob. 

The  effect  was  like  the  appearance  of  a  bull  at  a  Sunday-school 
picnic.  Already  bewildered  by  his  mad  career  througn  their 
ranks,  the  Russians  met  his  second  assault  in  a  very  half-hearted 
way.  Encouraged  by  this  weakening,  "Saturday  Night"  led  his 
forces  in  a  sudden  combined  attack ;  and  a  moment  of  breathless 
combat  followed.  Fogarty  received  a  number  of  blows,  which 
served  only  to  madden  him;  and  his  rage  found  such  an  outlet 
through  his  mighty  fists  that  the  onslaught  became  more  than 
ordinary  flesh  and  blood  could  endure.  The  Russian  front  fell 
back,  gave  way,  and  in  a  moment  was  in  full  retreat.  Seven 
cowboys,  on  their  way  home  after  an  all-night  spree,  joined  the 
breathless  victors  in  pursuit;  and  the  last  Fogarty  saw  of  them 
was  a  confused  mass  of  horses,  Japs,  Russians  and  eucalyptus 
trees. 

He  turned  slowly  to  his  two  victims.  Villakoff  had  scrambled 
to  his  feet,  and  was  looking  suspiciously  about  the  horizon,  as  if 
he  expected  an  enemy  to  attack  him  from  the  rear.  The  Rus- 
sian was  evidently  a  trifle  dazed,  and  when  he  took  out  a  cigar- 


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140  OVT    WEST 

ette  he  seemed  to  wonder  what  it  was  and  how  he  had  got  it. 
Big  Tim,  his  anger  subsided,  approached  him  very  humbly. 

"Mr.  Villakoff,"  he  stammered,  "I  was  foolish.  I  niver  meant 
to  hit  ye  at  all.  It  was  that  man  on  the  ground  roused  the  divil 
in  me.    I  can't  begin  to  tell  ye  how  sorry  I  am." 

"Certainly— certainly,"  Villakoff  replied.  He  lit  the  cigarette 
and  inhaled  a  deep  puff,  which  seemed  to  restore  him.  "I  under- 
stand.   I  am  all  right,  I  think." 

"Ye're  not  hurt?"  inquired  Fogarty  anxiously. 

"Not  seriously,  I  believe,"  responded  the  polite  Russian.  He 
glanced  at  the  prostrate  form  of  the  printer,  and  smiled  grimly. 
"Your  attack,  my  friend,"  he  explained,  "deprived  me  of  my 
normal  position,  but  not  of  my  philosophy.  Misfortune,  as  you 
are  aware,  is  only  a  comparative  state.  I  look  at  our  friend  Mac- 
gregor  and  feel  like  the  recipient  of  a  favor.  I  see  he  is  regain- 
ing consciousness.  Perhaps  you  would  do  well  to  step  to  one 
side.    He  may  not  care  to  see  you  when  his  eyes  open." 

Kneeling  at  Maigregor's  side,  he  picked  up  one  of  his  lifeless 
arms  and  worked  it  up  and  down  with  a  hearty  swing.  In  spite 
of  the  warning  Fogarty  seized  the  other,  and  a  few  moments  of 
violent  pumping  started  the  blood  on  its  accustomed  course. 
Macgregor  suddenly  jumped  to  his  feet,  groaned,  rubbed  his 
eyes,  and  asked  if  breakfast  were  ready. 

"Sure  it  is,  me  lad,"  said  Big  Tim,  kindly ;  "though  Fm  think- 
in'  ye  won't  care  for  anything  but  mush  an'  milk.  How  are  ye, 
now?  Don't  worry,"  he  added,  as  returning  memory  brought 
a  frightened  look  into  the  printer's  eyes.  "Fm  through,  an' 
ready  to  call  everything  square  an'  settled  for." 

Macgregor  made  no  reply  to  this  generous  offer,  but  leaned 
heavily  on  Villakoff's  shoulder.  Finally,  without  saying  a  word, 
he  walked  unsteadily  to  his  bicycle  and  pedalled  slowly  across 
the  rough  ground  out  of  sight.  Fogarty,  with  another  apology 
to  the  Russian,  which  was  courteously  accepted,  followed  on 
foot ;  Villakoff  turned  his  steps  toward  the  hills ;  and  the  battle- 
ground was  left  to  the  quail  and  rabbits. 

Early  Monday  morning  Big  Tim  was  summoned  to  the  office, 
and  remained  closeted  with  the  manager  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  When  he  came  out,  with  a  big  cigar  tucked  away  in  the 
corner  of  a  happy,  self-satisfied  smile,  he  bore  the  appearance 
of  a  victorious  general  issuing  from  the  presence  of  a  gracious 
sovereign. 

"The  old  man's  all  dght,  Willy,"  he  confided  to  the  head 
packer.  "When  he  sent  for  me  I  was  nervous.  I  thought  he 
was  mad,  an'  was  likely  to  keep  on  showin'  me  the  error  of  me 
ways   until   he'd   kilt   me  an'  ate  up  me  life   insurance.     But    he 


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A     TRANSPLANTED    BATTLE  141 

shuk  hands  like  I  was  his  long-lost  brother  which  he  hadn't  seen 
since  he  got  siperated  be  the  Civil  War,  an'  give  me  this  seegar. 
He  says  av  the  Japs  stay  he'll  raise  me  wages." 

And  it  is  a  pleasure  to  record  that  they  did  stay.  Whether 
it  was  that  F'ogarty  s  exhibition  of  prowess  made  his  threats 
more  convincing,  or  that  they  were  satisfied  with  their  victory, 
even  the  actual  outbreak  of  war  in  the  East  failed  to  lure  them 
from  the  K.  and  M.  bunk-house. 

And  from  the  mountain  ranch,  too,  the  desertions  ceased. 
One  evening,  when  the  the  valley  had  recovered  from  the  shock  of 
seeing  a  mob  of  foreigners  and  cowboys  descend  upon  it  just  as 
it  was  about  to  start  for  church,  Villakoff  made  one  of  his  rare 
visits  to  La  Salida;  and,  meeting  Fogarty  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
bar,  was  persuaded  to  join  his  former  opponent  in  a  glass  of 
friendship. 

"Here's  to  peace,  an'  no  hard  feelin's,"  Big  Tim  proposed. 
*'The  war  is  over.  But  it  was  a  grand  fight!  Sure  I'll  niver  see 
wan  like  it  agin.  An'  the  success,  man,  the  grand  success!  It 
civilized  'em  all,  Japs  an'  Roosians  togither,  an'  even  Macgregor 
makes  no  hostile  dimonstrations  when  I  come  by.  An'  little  Sat- 
urday Night  an'  your  man  wid  the  big  beard  an'  the  name  full 
o'  k's  is  friendly  as  a  drunk  man  an'  a  post.  The  Jap  wins  his 
pay  from  him  iv'ry  week  as  unconcerned  as  if  they'd  been  com- 
rades from  childhood.  Look  here  now,  an'  see  the  results  av 
a  good  fight,  wid  no  interference  till  all's  settled  an'  iv'rybody 
is  introjuced  to  iv'rybody  else." 

He  tip-toed  to  the  back  room,  and  drew  aside  the  curtain  that 
hung  between.  Villakoff  peered  around  the  Irishman's  massive 
frame,  and  saw  half  a  dozen  of  his  men,  an  equal  number  of 
Japs,  and  a  scattering  of  Mexicans,  intent  on  watching  *'Satur- 
day  Night"  initiate  an  awkward  Russian  with  his  week's  pay  in 
his  pocket  into  the  mysteries  of  pin-pool.  Truly,  the  war  was 
over. 

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142 

SANTA  TERESITA  OF  THE  SHOE 

By  SHARLOT  M,  HALL 

jl  ALDICION !"  muttered  Juan  Estero,  hobbling 
T:  furiously  through  the  sagging  gateway  of  the 
patio  and  shaking  his  withered  fist  at  a  tall 
young  man  in  white  duck  who  had  planted  his 
theodolite  with  excessive  care  squarely  over  the 
finest  melon  vine  in  the  patch. 

'*Hola!  Senor  Americano,  what  do  you  in  my 
heurta?  Wouldst  bewitch  my  melon  vines  with  that  devil's  eye  on 
three  legs?    Vayate!  Depart!    Get  you  gone,  I  say!" 

The  slender  figure  bowed  slightly:  **At  once,  Senor!  My  su- 
perior, who  arrives,  will  explain  the  intrusion."  Lifting  the  of- 
fending instrument,  he  stepped  cautiously  among  the  vegetables, 
inwardly  laughing  at  the  scene  he  was  about  to  witness. 

The  Chief  Engineer  came  up  puffing.  Nature  had  given  him 
one  of  those  accommodating  figures  that  expand  horizontally  with 
the  ease  of  a  plum  pudding,  but  with  ironical  thoughtlessness  had 
neglected  to  throw  in  the  temper  such  Falstaffian  bulk  suggests. 

The  mid-summer  sun  of  Southern  Arizona  is  hot;  beads  of  per- 
spiration hung  quite  unlike  jewels  along  the  official  forehead  and 
trickled  down  the  broad  and  massive  butte  of  the  official  nose.  Ari- 
zona deserts  are  apt  to  be  sandy  and  interspersed  with  bristling 
hordes  of  cactus  and  other  prickly  botanical  abominations;  and 
Arizona  roads  have  a  habit  of  dwindling  without  warning  into 
burro  trails.  Such  a  combination  of  circumstances  had  left  the 
official  buckboard  stranded  in  a  canon  several  miles  in  the  rear 
and  brought  the  Chief  to  Juan  Estero's  doorway  fluently  condemna- 
tory of  the  misguided  scheme  of  creation  which  included  such  com- 
fortless lands. 

"Your  grace,  Senor!  What  does  that  straddle-bug  thing  in  my 
vegetable  garden?"  demanded  Juan  angrily.  The  Chief  Engineer 
stared  and  began  to  swell  with  indignation.  His  face  turned  from 
red  to  purple  as  he  sputtered  impotently,  too  full  to  speak.  The 
two  men  faced  each  other  like  a  little  brown  weasel  and  an  over- 
grown turkey  cock ;  but  while  both  waited  for  words,  a  swift  diver- 
sion swept  them  past  the  opportunity. 

A  little  brown  figure  with  a  ragged  rebozo  thrown  over  one  arm 
flashed  through  the  doorway  and  an  imperious  voice  addressed 
itself  to  their  ears.  "Grandfather,  the  Senor  Americano  is  tired; 
it  is  very  hot.  There  is  water  and  cool  wine  under  the  fig-trees. 
Come!"  and  with  a  gesture  that  refused  argument  she  led  the  way 
to  a  broad-spreading  fig-tree,   under   which   were   some   benches, 


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SANTA    TBRESITA    OF   THE   SHOE  1^3 

an  olla  of  cool  water,  and  a  skin  of  wine  that  bubbled  in  ruby  waves 
into  the  earthen  cups. 

Seating  her  guest  where  the  broad  leaves  spread  the  deepest 
shade,  she  poured  wine  and  heaped  a  wooden  tray  with  fruit. 
■*Drink,  Senor,"  she  urged  hospitably;  "it  is  light  wine  that  cools 
the  blood;  and  the  figs  are  the  finest.  Is  it  not  so,  grandfather? 
Everyone  knows  Juan  Estero's  fig-trees ;  Father  Domingo  brought 
them  from  the  Holy  Land  a  hundred  years  ago.  There  are  none 
like  them,  even  in  Mexico." 

The  shade,  the  cool  wine,  and  the  luscious  purple  fruit  worked 
their  spell  on  the  Chief;  his  soul  mellowed  and  he  leaned  back  with 
half-shut  eyes,  sipping  contentedly  and  watching  his  entertainers. 
The  old  man's  manner  had  regained  its  courtly  courtesy.  What 
would  you?  A  woman  is  a  woman!  If  his  granddaughter  chose 
to  treat  the  Gringo  brujo  like  a  don  there  was  no  more  to  be  said. 
Doubtless  the  pears  would  blight  on  the  tree  and  the  next  press  of 
wine  go  sour;  but  a  woman  must  have  her  way  if  the  skies  fall. 

She  was  having  it,  with  not  the  smallest  fear  of  such  a  celestial 
catastrophe,  intent  rather  on  averting  certain  mundane  threaten- 
mgs.  The  rebozo.  in  place  now,  half  hid  the  braids  of  smooth  black 
hair  and  shaded  an  oval,  olive  face  with  a  flush  of  excitement  on  the 
cheeks,  and  dark  eyes  intently  watchful  till  a  shovel  hat  appeared  in 
the  doorway. 

"The  padre!  Grandfather,  it  is  Padre  Ochoba.  We  are  under 
the  fig-tree,  Father;  will  you  join  us?  Let  me  fill  your  cup."  With 
a  genial  sanitation  the  old  padre  settled  himself  in  his  favorite 
nook  where  an  angle  of  the  limbs  made  a  spreading  arm  chair.  He 
was  a  portly  old  man  whose  worn  black  cassock  seemed  no  longer 
on  good  terms  with  its  buttons  and  whose  twinkling  eyes  betokened 
something  of  the  whimsical  spirit  within. 

Nature  had  intended  him  for  a  poet,  but,  being  indolent  and  fond 
of  dinners,  he  had  compromised  by  becoming  a  priest.  He  patted 
the  broad  limbs  aflFectionately.  "Well,  well,  amigos!  There  is  no 
iree  like  the  fig-tree!  She  is  mother  and  shelter  and  friend!  See 
how  she  bends  her  strong  arms  to  give  me  a  seat,  and  holds  her 
fruit  down  to  us  as  if  we  were  children." 

"The  very  winds  sing  a  home  song  in  the  fig-tree.  The  pine 
now,  he  says :  'Stand  up  very  straight  and  grow  tall ;  but  you  can 
never  reach  me.  My  friends  are  the  stars,  not  you  little  people  of 
earth.'  And  the  sycamore — he  is  a  story  teller,  weaving  wonderful 
tales  out  of  the  past  and  the  future ;  but  the  fig-tree  is  a  woman  who 
loves  and  would  give." 

The  afternoon  sun  was  sifting  like  yellow  dust  between  the  leaves 
when  the  Chief  rose  to  go.     His  lately  reluctant  host  pressed  hi? 


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144  OUT    WEST 

hand  warmly;  there  was  no  longer  war  between  the  two,  nor  even 
truce,  but  cordial  alliance. 

No  longer  was  the  "straddle-bug  thing"  to  lift  its  evil  eye  in  Juan 
Estero's  melon  patch.  Between  friends  much  was  possible,  and 
the  devil-built  road  of  the  fire-wagon  would  curve  outward  a  hun- 
dred yards  beyond  the  gate  and  take  its  way  down  the  arroyo  past 
the  old  church  and  the  little  campo  santo,  where  through  the  gaps 
in  the  crumbling  adobe  wall  the  graves  could  be  seen ;  the  old  ones 
half  smoothed  away,  the  new  ones  with  wreaths  of  faded  tissue- 
paper  flowers  hanging  on  their  rough  wooden  crosses. 

Also  Juan  Estero  would  explain  to  his  neighbors  that  the  fire- 
wagon  would  bring  dollars  to  such  as  had  the  wisdom  to  keep  their 
palms  open  and  not  grudge  a  bit  of  land  where  the  road  went.  And 
as  a  sort  of  bond  of  good  faith  the  tall  young  man  in  white  duck 
was  to  bring  his  blankets  and  sleep  at  the  casa  while  the  surveying 
went  on,  and  sit  in  the  evening  when  the  work  was  done  under 
the  fig-trees  in  the  patio  and  drink  the  sweet,  thin  wine  and  eat  the 
purple  fruit. 

In  a  week  he  had  won  his  way  to  the  old  man's  heart;  they 
played  endless  games  of  checkers  in  the  evening,  with  two  earth- 
ern  cups  of  wine  and  a  basket  of  figs  on  the  table  between  them. 
Sometimes  Father  Ochoba  joined  them,  slipping  into  his  seat 
against  the  tree  trunk,  and  the  two  old  men  talked  of  the  past, 
while  the  younger  listened,  or  watched  for  a  slender  shape  across 
the  patio. 

She  was  like  a  slim,  wind-blown  rosebush,  he  thought;  and  her 
small,  dusky  face  was  the  rare,  half-folded  bud.  She  was  as  shy 
and  elusive  as  some  wild  bird,  slipping  in  now  and  then  to  fill  the 
cups  or  bring  hot  tortillas  from  old  Marta's  baking-place  under  the 
grapevines  at  the  back  door. 

Presently  he  brought  an  easel  and  many  tubes  of  colors  and  began 
to  make  a  picture  of  Juan,  lean  and  brown  and  wrinkled,  sitting  un- 
der the  fig-tree  with  arms  outstretched  on  the  table  beside  the 
earthen  cup  and  the  basket  of  figs. 

He  was  no  ordinary  servant  of  the  fire-wagon,  this  tall  fellow  with 
the  grave  young  face  and  the  firm,  slender  fingers  under  whose  will 
the  brush  worked  wizardry.  The  Juan  of  flesh  and  blood  was  half 
afraid  of  the  Juan  on  the  canvas;  his  eyes,  that  should  have  been 
mere  blotches  of  color,  seemed  looking  down  along  the  past  and 
counting  every  milestone  on  the  road. 

He  seemed  to  see,  in  his  dreaming  retrospect,  those  good  days 
of  youth  when  the  poor  old  ruin  of  a  casa  was  a  fine  hacienda,  and 
the  vaqueros  drove  the  cattle  down  from  the  hills  in  snorting  herds. 
He  himself,  master  of  all,  met  them  at  the  gate,  sitting  his  big 
black  horse  like  a  centaur,  garbed  nobly  in  broadcloth  with  silver 
buttons  and  wide,  silver-banded  sombrero. 

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SANTA   TERESITA   OF   THE  SHOE  145 

And  there  were  other  days — days  not  good!  The  painted  eyes 
knew  these,  too;  they  held,  mingled  with  the  beautiful  dreams,  an 
old  man's  regret  and  patient  acceptance  of  fate  too  strong  for  his 
bending — the  sadness  of  defeat  in  a  battle  less  noble  than  that  to 
which  his  blade  was  bred.  It  was  strange  that  a  thing  of  paint 
should  speak  the  inside  of  a  man's  soul  long  hidden. 

Between  whiles  the  painter  worked  at  another  canvas,  a  smaller 
one  that  never  seemed  to  please  him.  On  it  a  little  dark  face  like 
a  half-opened  musk-rose  gjew  and  faded  away  under  his  impatient 
hands.  No  one  ever  saw  it ;  it  was  done  from  memory ;  he  would 
as  soon  have  asked  a  sitting  of  one  of  the  velvet-winged  night  moths 
that  flitted  through  the  fig-tree  when  the  low  desert  stars  were  shin- 
ing like  candles  on  some  dim  altar. 

He  might  never  have  known  her  had  not  chance  drawn  him  to  the 
old  campo  santo  one  afternoon.  In  an  angle  of  the  wall  a  bird-of- 
paradise  tree  spread  its  branches  over  a  grave  smoothed  round  and 
low  like  all  in  that  comer.  The  delicate  mimosa  leaves  whispered 
in  the  shadow,  and  the  yellow  blossoms,  with  long  crimson-threaded 
throats,  swayed  up  and  down  like  strange  tropic  birds. 

She  was  sitting  at  the  foot  of  the  grave,  praying  aloud  very  softly, 
the  beads  fallen  idly  across  her  lap.  She  started  at  his  step  and 
looked  up  quickly,  blushing  like  a  guilty  child.  He  drew  back,  ask- 
ing pardon  for  the  intrusion;  but  she  rose  with  a  shy  gesture  oi 
welcome. 

"The  Seiior  Americano  will  think  me  foolish;  it  is  my  grand- 
mother that  lies  here.  The  blessed  saints  in  the  church  are  old,  and 
they  have  to  listen  to  so  many  prayers ;  but  she  was  just  a  girl — 
just  a  girl  like  me  when  they  laid  her  here  in  her  bride-dress.  When 
T  want  something  very  much,  I  come  and  tell  her;  she  will  under- 
stand even  if  she  cannot  send  it,  because  she  is  young." 

"And  what  is  it  that  you  want  now?"  the  Sefior  Americano  said, 
so  gently  that  she  answered  eagerly.  *'It  is  shoes !  Real  shoes — not 
the  sandals  Marta  makes,  that  trip  my  feet  when  I  dance.  It  is  for 
the  Fiesta,  the  day  of  the  blessed  San  Juan.  All  the  men  are  pol- 
ishing their  spurs  and  bits  and  braiding  new  bridle-reins ;  and  every 
girl  will  have  new  slippers — every  one  but  me. 

"Grandfather  says  slippers  are  a  foolishness;  but  she  will  know. 
She  will  send  them  if  she  can.  She  danced  in  red  slippers  the  day 
that  grandfather  rode  down  on  his  black  horse,  waving  the  cock's 
head  in  his  hand.  He  had  won  the  race  and  the  beaten  ones  were 
far  behind,  covered  with  dust  and  feathers.  As  he  swept  by  the 
door,  he  stooped  down  and  caught  grandmother  in  his  arms  and 
carried  her  away  on  the  front  of  his  saddle. 

"They  danced  the  cradle-dance  together  that  night — and  the  next 


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146  OUT    WEST 

San  Juan's  day  she  was  lying  here,  and  grandfather  barred  the  door 
and  walked  the  floor  all  day  with  my  father  in  his  arms.  He  has 
barred  the  door  every  fiesta  since;  but  Marta  lets  me  slip  out 
through  the  kitchen  and  watch  the  dance." 

It  was  dusk  many  days  later,  dusk  of  the  eve  of  San  Juan.  The 
Sefior  Americano  had  watched  that  one  grave  till  he  knew  just 
when  she  would  come.  On  the  foot  of  the  grave  two  small  slippers 
nestled  close  together — slippers  lovelier  than  her  wildest  dream, 
slim  and  high  heeled  and  red,  with  satin  bows  and  buckles  that 
sparkled  like  drops  of  dew  in  the  heart  of  a  rose. 

She  hurried  down  the  path  to  the  paradise-tree,  stumbling  a  lit- 
tle because  her  eyes  were  shut — tightly  shut.  She  would  not  look 
till  the  last  moment.  Little  Saint  Grandmother  should  have  every 
chance. 

When  she  saw  the  sparkling  buckles,  her  heart  gave  a  quick  leap 
and  she  dropped  on  her  knees,  whispering  soft  thanks  to  all  the 
neglected  saints  in  the  church,  and  to  the  young  grandmother  most 
of  all.  She  had  known!  She  had  remembered  when  her  girl  feet 
danced  so  gayly. 

Now  her  granddaughter  touched  the  beautiful  shoes  with  awe; 
they  might  be  only  a  glorious  vision ;  she  might  indeed  be  dreaming 
that  this  thing  had  come  of  the  saints  to  her  whose  slim  brown  feet 
had  known  nothing  finer  than  Marta's  sandals.  She  held  them 
close  in  her  arms  as  she  crept  into  the  church  to  say  one  more  prayer 
before  she  slipped  away  to  show  them  to  the  old  woman,  busy  with 
her  fiesta  baking. 

Watch-lights  were  beginning  to  blaze  on  the  fiills,  and  in  the 
dusky  patio  the  dull  red  end  of  her  grandfather's  cigarette  glowed 
dim  as  he  sat  with  the  Sefior  Americano.  He  had  roused  a  little 
from  the  silence  of  memories  which  each  fiesta  brought  out  of  the 
past,  and  was  telling  his  guest  of  the  sights  to  be  seen  on  the 
morrow. 

Till  midnight  the  fires  of  San  Juan  would  blaze  on  the  hilltops, 
fed  with  dry  wood  by  crowds  of  men  and  boys.  At  sunrise,  a 
procession  of  men  would  come  down  from  the  hills,  bearing  high 
a  green,  young  sycamore  cut  at  dawn  far  up  in  the  arroyo  where 
a  thread  of  idle  water  trickled  through  the  sand. 

In  and  out  among  the  branches  would  hang  wreaths  of  paper 
flowers,  gay  with  tinsel,  and  strange,  crude,  little  earthen  figures 
of  a  child  holding  a  lamb  in  his  arms — the  baby  San  Juan. 

Three  times  they  would  circle  the  village,  singing  as  they  went, 
and  the  last  time  a  wreath  and  an  image  would  be  left  at  every 
house — to  hang  above  the  doorway,  till,  faded  and  worn  by  a  year 
of  weather,  it  was  taken  down  the  next  San  Juan's  day. 

Mid-morning,  Father  Ochoba  would  gather  his  flock  to  mass  in 


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SANTA    TERESITA   OF   THE   SHOE  147 

the  old  church — then  away  for  a  gallo  race,  the  cock-pulling.  In 
the  center  of  the  street  a  bronze-black  Spanish  rooster  would  be 
buried  up  to  his  neck,  with  the  earth  pressed  firm  that  he  might  not 
escape.  Then  down  from  the  hills  would  come  the  riders,  dressed  in 
their  gayest  clothes,  their  horses  decked  with  bright  ribbons;  down 
at  full  speed,  and  as  he  neared  the  buried  cock  each  man  would  bend 
low  in  his  saddle  and  try  to  grasp  the  bobbing  head.  The  winner  of 
the  squawking  prize  would  be  pursued  by  his  less  fortunate  fellows 
till  each  one  held  a  leg,  a  wing,  a  handful  of  feathers.  Then  back 
down  the  street,  and  many  a  waiting  maid  would  be  swung  up  to  her 
lover's  saddle  bow  in  brief,  willing  captivity.  After  that  the 
feast  and  the  dance,  and  many  a  betrothal. 

The  old  man  rose,  with  a  courteous  word  to  his  guest,  and  went 
in  the  house.  They  heard  him  barring  the  doors  that  would  not 
be  opened  again  till  this  San  Juan's  day  was  a  memory,  like  the 
others  that  were  gone. 

At  sunrise  the  Senor  Americano  stood  inside  the  sagging  gate- 
way and  watched  the  image-bearers.  As  they  passed  the  house 
old  Marta  hobbled  out  to  take  her  wreath  and  earthen  figure 
from  the  tree.  While  she  fumbled  with  the  knot  she  was  unty- 
ing, one  of  the  men  a  dark,  thick-shouldered  fellow,  said  a  word 
to  his  companions  and  made  an  angry  gesture  toward  the  patio. 

Only  one  pair  of  eyes  noted  the  motion ;  dark  eyes  under  a  worn 
rebozo,  hidden  away  behind  the  grape-vine  over  the  kitchen  wall. 
A  chill  wind  rustled  the  leaves  and  struck  her  face.  "It  is  some 
one  walking  across  my  grave,"  she  whispered  as  she  crossed  herself 
quickly ;  "or  across  the  grave  of  the  Senor  Americano.  Not  his ;  it 
shall  not  be  his !    Let  it  be  mine,  O  blessed  San  Juan !" 

The  image-bearers  were  gone;  the  slim  little  sycamore  would 
stand  by  the  door  of  the  old  church  till  its  green  leaves  curled 
and  dried  and  blew  away  in  the  desert  wind ;  the  mass  was  over ; 
and  now  they  come  thundering  down  the  street,  the  gallo  racers. 
A  score  of  gay-decked  centaurs,  laughing  and  shouting;  cheer- 
ing the  one  who  just  missed  by  a  desperate  bob  of  the  feathered 
head ;  mocking  the  clumsy  fellow  who  almost  fell  from  his  saddle 
as  he  stooped  for  the  reluctant  prize. 

Ah!  one  has  it?  The  big,  thick-shouldered  rider  who  sits  like  a 
man  of  iron,  the  reins  in  his  teeth,  guiding  the  running  horse  by 
the  pressure  of  his  knees  alone,  as  he  sweeps  down  the  street  holding 
the  black  cock  high  out  of  reach  of  the  pursuing  crowd.  Spurs  are 
red  and  eyes  flashing  behind  him,  but  he  rides  straight  for  the  hills, 
his  gay  sash  floating  back  on  the  wind. 

A  shout  goes  up  from  the  flat-topped  roofs,  crowded  with  women 
and  babies  and  old  men  wild  with  excitement.  He  has  out-dis- 
tanced them  all ;  he  is  far  up  in  the  sparse  pinons,  and  the  beaten 


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148  OUT    WEST 

riders  are  reining  in  their  blown  horses.  Now  he  wheels  and 
rides  back,  straight  to  the  waiting  group ;  he  waves  the  prize  in 
derisive  challenge,  and,  standing  high  in  his  stirrups,  flings  the 
ruffled  heap  of  feathers  into  their  faces. 

The  Seiior  Americano,  watching  from  the  gateway,  saw  it  tossed 
from  hand  to  hand  till  every  man  had  won  a  feather,  then  they 
whirled  and  came  thundering  back  to  the  street.  A  flutter  of 
white,  and  a  girlish  figure  was  swung  high  in  the  grip  of  strong 
arms  and  the  horses  dashed  on,  scarcely  checked  by  the  down- 
ward reach  of  the  dark  Lochinvar. 

Nearer  and  nearer  they  come  and  other  light  skirts  flutter  against 
the  gay  sashes ;  then  a  scream  at  his  side  roused  the  watcher.  His 
lips  set,  his  eyes  burning,  his  rich  dress  splashed  with  foam  from 
the  bridle  bit  and  dust  of  the  road,  the  big  rider  was  all  but  swinging 
a  little  struggling  form  to  his  saddle  bow.  She  held  out  her  arms 
to  the  man  on  the  ground,  her  eyes  wide  with  frightened  appeal. 

With  one  leap  he  caught  her  from  the  burly  horseman  and  thrust 
her  down  behind  the  gate.  It  was  well  that  Father  Ochoba  came 
out  from  under  the  fig-tree  that  moment,  for  the  dark  face  of  the 
rider  was  pale  with  rage  as  he  curbed  his  plunging  horse.  The  old 
padre  lifted  his  hand,  pointed  down  the  street,  and  the  winner  of  the 
gallo  race  rode  sullenly  away. 

There  is  no  other  music  in  the  world  that  is  quite  like  the  faint 
sound  of  a  distant  guitar  through  a  moon-lit  night;  heard  many 
times  it  never  loses  its  plaintive  sweetness,  and  heard  but  once  it 
haunts  the  memory  forever.  The  Senor  Americano  was  following 
it,  as  it  came  faintly  up  the  street. 

Far  down  at  the  end  of  the  plaza  was  the  dancing  place,  roofed 
over  with  freshly  cut  greet  boughs  of  the  cottonwood.  The  fall  of 
footsteps  on  the  hard-beaten  earth  mingled  with  the  music  as  he 
came  nearer.  Fires  of  twisted  bear-grass  burned  not  too  far  from 
the  green-roofed  ramada,  and  by  their  light  and  the  light  of  the 
growing  moon  the  merrymakers  were  dancing. 

His  eyes  searched  through  the  thronging  dancers  till  they  found 
old  Marta,  fine  in  her  long-hoarded  best  rebozo,  and  by  her  side 
a  slim  little  figure  in  white  with  rich  red  cactus  flowers  inwoven 
through  the  dark  braids,  and  small  restless  feet  in  high-heeled  red 
slippers. 

She  was  dancing  lightly  by  herself,  one  hand  on  Marta's  arm. 
The  Seiior  Americano  felt  his  blood  tingle  as  he  watched.  It  was 
this  he  had  seen  in  his  dreams ;  this  he  had  tried  to  make  live  on  his 
canvas;  this  tender,  shadowy  face  with  the  soft  child-eyes  and  the 
wistful  woman's  mouth,  the  air  of  aloofness  and  of  waiting.  To- 
night she  had  the  look  of  one  who  speaks  with  the  angels ;  for  had 
not  the  little  Saint  Grandmother  sent  the  beautiful  slippers?    And 


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SANTA    TERESITA   OF   THE  SHOE  149 

might  not  her  gentle  spirit  come  this  night  of  all  nights  to  the  place 
where  her  girlish  feet  had  danced  so  long  ago  ? 

Just  beyond  her  the  big  rider,  in  broadcloth  and  silver  buttons, 
led  the  dance.  Suddenly  he  turned,  caught  her  in  his  arms,  and 
whirled  through  the  throng.  She  struggled  helplessly,  quivering 
like  a  bird  in  a  trap.  "Free  me !  Pablo,  thou  coward,  free  me !  I 
hate  thee !  Thou  knowest  I  hate  thy  very  touch !"  she  cried.  And 
as  she  cried  she  felt  herself  wrenched  free  and  saw  again  the  angry 
flash  of  gray  eyes,  and  again  the  black-robed  arm  of  Father  Ochoba 
pushing  in  between. 

"Home  with  her;  to  the  casal"  he  said  sharply,  a  hand  still  on 
Pablo's  shoulder,  and  she  was  carried  swiftly  past  the  crowded 
ramada  and  the  blazing  fires  out  into  the  quiet  moonlight.  "My 
dove  I  My  dove !  Teresita,  my  darling !"  the  Senor  Americano  was 
whispering,  his  cheek  against  her  own. 

In  the  dark  shadow  of  Marta's  grape-vine  he  opened  the  door 
softly  and  set  her  down.  "Go  now !  I  will  watch.  Have  no  fear ; 
I  love  thee,  Teresita.     Little  one,  I  will  guard  thee." 

"Ah!  guard  thyself!"  she  cried,  still  trembling.  "It  is  not  just 
for  me  that  Pablo  hates  thee;  but  for  the  atajo — for  the  pack  train. 

"He  has  many  mules.  All  that  comes  into  the  village  and  all  that 
goes  out  is  his  carga.  He  goes  far,  even  to  Sonora,  and  comes  with 
rich  goods  for  the  fiestas.  They  say  the  eyes  of  the  night  are  blind 
when  he  crosses  the  line;  nothing  does  he  pay,  and  he  has  gold  in 
both  pockets.  But  now  thy  fire-wagon  comes,  and  the  atajo  is  but 
so  many  idle  mules.  No  more  will  his  pockets  be  heavy ;  he  hates 
thee  most  for  that.  I  am  but  a  girl,  and  the  mask  with  which  he 
covers  his  spite.    Look  well,  my  life!    I  die  if  he  harms  thee." 

On  the  day  after  the  fiesta,  while  the  green  cottonwood  leaves 
on  the  roof  of  the  ramada  were  dying  in  the  sun  and  filling  the  air 
with  a  sweet,  waxy  odor,  the  Chief  Engineer  drove  down  the  ar- 
royo,  where  now  was  a  wagon  road.  Even  the  thought  of  cool 
wine  and  purple  figs  in  Juan  Estero's  patio  did  not  banish  the  look 
of  annoyance  from  his  face. 

Blunder  had  piled  upon  blunder  in  the  grading  camps  behind,  and 
he  would  send  back  the  tall  young  engineer  to  right  the  trouble, 
quickly  and  with  a  firm  hand;  for  the  fire-wagon  must  mingle  its 
smoke  with  the  sea-fog  before  there  was  snow  on  the  mountains  to 
the  east. 

The  Seiior  Americano  gathered  his  belongings,  packing  the  tubes 
of  color  and  the  unfinished  portrait.  The  picture  of  old  Juan  was 
already  far  away,  destined  to  bring  the  painter  fame  that  would  last 
after  the  old  man  had  joined  his  young  bride  under  the  paradise 
tree. 

The  brown  hands  that  poured  the  last  cup  of  wine  trembled  a  lit- 


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150  OUT    WEST 

tie.  He  had  not  said  good-bye,  but  softly,  quickly,  as  one  comforting 
a  child:  *'I  will  come  soon,  Teresita  mia;  when  the  fire-wagon  first 
comes  down  the  arroyo,  look  thou !  1  shall  be  riding  on  the  front 
and  watching  for  thee." 

It  is  for  the  woman  that  the  days  of  waiting  drag.  Old  Marta, 
baking  tortillas  under  the  grape-vine,  missed  the  Ught  song  in  the 
patio;  Father  Ochoba  saw  often  a  little  figure  sitting  by  the  grave 
under  the  paradise-tree ;  and  there  were  two  red  slippers  with  rose- 
shaped  satin  bows  lying  on  the  altar  in  the  dim  old  church. 

Pablo  had  made  evil  threats ;  but  this  should  checkmate  him.  She 
laid  them  down  reverently,  her  treasured,  heaven-sent  gift,  there 
at  the  feet  of  the  Virgin.  She  would  know !  She  was  a  woman,  too, 
for  all  the  shining  aureole  that  encircled  her  blessed  head.  She  had 
loved  and  suffered,  as  God  wills  all  women  shall  do.  And  this  one 
prayer — there  was  no  self  in  it ;  but  for  him,  for  him !  Just  that  he 
might  walk  unharmed,  though  on  roads  far  ixom  her. 

She  had  prayed  it  day  by  day  till  the  words  came  unbidden  to 
her  lips,  for  the  waiting  was  long.  Pablo  laughed  much  when  the 
name  of  the  Sefior  Americano  was  spoken.  Did  not  all  men  know 
the  faith  of  a  Gringo?  For  him  those  who  hate  and  those  who 
love  wait  in  vain;  but  hate  has  patience  when  love  is  tired.  More- 
over, there  was  rumor  that  he  had  gone  away  in  haste  to  the  place 
where  the  fire-wagon  came  from — rumor  that  Pablo  might  have 
made  sure,  for  in  his  pocket  lay  the  letter  meant  for  Teresita,  taken 
from  Jose,  the  lazy  messenger,  whose  mouth  was  stopped  with  the 
good  gold  of  Sonora. 

The  grading  camps  had  come  and  gone,  and  the  road  of  the  fire- 
wagon  ran  like  two  ribbons  of  steel  down  the  arroyo.  The  puffing, 
snorting  Thing  itself  must  have  startled  the  saints  in  the  old  church ; 
for  its  smoke  sometimes  blew  in  through  the  door  and  mingled  with 
the  candle-smoke  on  the  altar. 

The  snow  had  whitened  the  eastern  mountains  and  melted  away 
into  green  rifts  in  the  caiions  that  seamed  their  sides.  The  pome- 
granate bushes  along  the  ditch  that  skirted  the  plaza  were  full  of 
red  blossoms,  and  the  oleanders,  crimson  and  white,  were  in  flower 
in  the  patio. 

And  he  was  coming!  Pablo  had  brought  the  news;  the  eyes  of 
hate  had  outrun  the  eyes  of  love.  There  was  something  in  his  look 
to  make  her  heart  chill  as  he  said  it:  "This  day,  at  sunset,  thou 
little  fool,  thy  Gringo  lover  comes.  Make  ready  thy  welcome; 
mine  is  waiting." 

The  Senor  Americano,  sitting  in  the  window  of  the  fire-wagon, 
watched  the  road  ahead.  Now  the  foothills  in  their  sparse  cloak  of 
greasewood;  now  a  corner  of  desert  where  the  lance-leaved  yucca 
trees  held  up  their  tall,  white  blossom-spikes  like  flags  of  truce ;  now 
a  far-caught  glimpse  of  the  plaza  and  the  flat-roofed  brown  houses ; 
and  now  the  bridge  swung  out  from  cliff  to  cliff  across  the  arroyo. 

Ah,  more !  At  the  farther  bridge-end  two  figures  struggled,  fell, 
rose,  and  like  a  deer  from  a  hound  a  little  dark  form  broke  away 
and  ran  across  the  narrow  span,  swinging  a  black  scarf  wildly  in 
her  hand.  "Back!  Back!"  she  cried,  flinging  the  rebozo  almost 
against  the  engine.  "Back !" — he  could  hear  the  unformed  word  on 
her  lips — then  the  arm  behind  struck  down  and  the  two  reeled  out  of 
sight. 


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SANTA   TERES  IT  A   OF   THE  SHOE  151 

The  train  glided  back  hardly  half  its  length  when  the  walls  of  the 
arroyo  heaved  apart  and  falling  showers  of  wood  and  stone  filled  the 
air.  The  engine  seemed  to  crouch  with  the  blow,  rolling  and  pitching 
on  the  brink  of  a  pit  of  fire.  A  line  of  twisted  steel  sagged  across 
the  smoke-filled  space  where  the  bridge  had  been. 

Clinging  hand  over  hand  the  Sefior  Americano  climbed  down 
rock  by  rock  through  the  dust  and  smoke-reek — down  to  the  bot- 
tom. His  eyes  as  he  went  had  in  them  the  strange,  dull  stillness  of 
one  who  watches  his  youth  die  before  him ;  and  when  he  came  out 
they  were  very  old — older  than  those  of  old  Juan  who  paced  up  and 
aown  in  the  patio — waiting. 

It  was  Father  Ochoba  who  led  them  both  to  the  shelter  of  the  fig- 
tree,  beyond  reach  of  Marta's  wailing.  "This  is  the  hate  of  Pablo," 
he  said.  "For  months  he  has  waited,  making  ready  this  for  thy 
coming.  With  the  head  of  a  fox  and  the  black  heart  of  a  wolf,  he 
worked  in  the  grading-camps  till  he  had  the  secret  of  the  powder. 
Thee  and  the  fire-wagon  should  go  one  road,  he  swore.  And  it  had 
been  but  for  her;  just  for  one  minute  he  forgot,  and  betrayed  it  all 
with  the  taunt  he  flung  at  her  as  she  went  to  meet  thee.  I  heard 
her  pray  as  she  ran — and  thou  knowest  the  rest." 

The  old  casa  is  a  ruin  forgotten  of  the  years ;  the  lizards  slip  in 
and  out  undisturbed  through  the  leaves  of  Marta's  grape-vine  over 
the  kitchen  door.  The  little  Palestine  doves  whisper  their  nest 
songs,  flute-sweet  and  soft,  among  the  branches  of  the  fig-tree,  and 
there  are  three  mounds  half  smoothed  away  under  the  paradise- 
tree  in  the  angle  of  the  wall.  The  wall  itself  crumbles  lower  with 
each  season  of  rain,  and  the  crimson-threaded  yellow  blossoms  fall 
and  fade  into  dry  heaps  between  the  graves,  stirred  onlv  by  some 
vagrant  wind  or  the  scurrying  feet  of  the  squirrel  who  lives  in  the 
hole  above  the  gate. 

Within  the  church  the  candles  still  flicker  dimly  over  the  crude 
images  and  strangely  scrawled  frescoes  made  by  Indian  neophytes 
dead  a  hundred  years.  On  the  altar  of  the  Virgin  two  taller  candles 
bum,  lighting  softly  an  unfinished  portrait  that  leans  against  her 
knees. 

Dust  clings  in  the  edges  of  the  canvas  and  along  the  rough  frame 
of  torn  and  splintered  wood.  But  the  face,  shadowy,  haunting,  full 
of  passionate  appeal,  full  of  high  and  tender  waiting,  as  for  one  who 
comes  not,  yet  must  come ! 

At  the  foot  of  the  frame,  their  red  sheen  dulled  and  faded,  lie  two 
little  high-heeled  slippers,  the  light  caught  tear-like  in  their  jeweled 
buckles.  Below,  the  earthen  floor  is  worn  very  smooth,  and  the 
candle-shine  is  a  hand  that  beckons  all  who  know  that  love  is  a 
hurt  and  a  giving. 

And  of  him,  the  Sefior  Americano,  only  this:  That  in  a  great 
gallery  in  a  far  city  hangs  a  picture;  the  picture  of  an  old  man, 
brown  and  wrinkled,  sitting  by  a  table  under  a  fig-tree  in  the  court- 
yard of  an  old  haciendo  falling  into  ruin.  His  eyes  follow  every 
comer  as  if  he  were  seeking  his  lost  youth,  and  the  red  wine  spills 
out  of  the  earthen  cup  at  his  hand  unheeded. 

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THE  FIRST  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER 

II 

The  Bear  Flag  Party— Bx  an  Eye  'Witneaa 


W' 


ROBERT  SEMPLE,  one  of  the  owners  and  editors  of  The  Cali- 
fornian,  had  taken  an  active  part  in  the  capture  of  Sonoma  and  the 
raising  of  the  "Bear  Flag,"  some  two  months  before  the  first  num- 
ber of  that  first  California  newspaper  appeared.  In  the  third  number, 
dated  August  22,  1846,  the  following  account  of  the  incident  appeared— 
doubtless  the  first  account  to  be  printed: 

The  movement  alluded  to,  in  our  last  number,  which  brought  about  the 
movement  on  the  part  of  the  Americans  at  the  time  it  occurred,  was  an  order 
from  Don  Jos^  Castro  to  Lieut.  Francisco  de  Arco,  at  Sonoma,  to  move 
with  fourteen  men  as  a  guard,  for  some  horses  belonging  to  the  Govcrn- 
m.ent.  which  were  at  the  Mission  of  San  Rafael,  and  report  them  at  Head- 
quarters, which  was  at  that  time  at  the  Mission  of  Santa  Clara. 

The  Lieutenant  was  under  the  necessity  of  passing  up  the  Sacramento  on 
the  north  side,  to  cross  at  New  Helvetia,  the  first  point  at  which  the  horses 
could  swim  the  river.  On  his  trip  he  was  seen  by  an  Indian,  who  came  in 
and  reported  that  he  had  seen  two  or  three  hundred  armed  men  on  horse- 
back, advancing  up  the  Sacramento,  at  a  point  that  made  it  very  evident,  if 
the  Indian  had  been  correct,  that  Castro  was  at  the  head  of  a  large  party, 
with  the  intention  of  attacking  Capt.  Fremont,  who  was  at  that  time  encamped 
at  the  Buttes,  near  the  junction  of  Feather  river  with  the  Sacramento. 

This  news  traveled  with  the  speed  of  the  swiftest  horses,  among  all  the 
Americans,  in  a  scope  of  country  150  miles  in  extent,  in  twenty-four  hours 
from  every  direction.  We  rushed  in  to  assist  Capt.  Fremont,  under  the  im- 
pression that  if  he  was  defeated,  we  should  be  taken  at  our  homes,  as  had 
been  reported.  By  forming  the  junction  with  him,  we  availed  ourselves  of 
his  assistance,  but  on  our  arrival  at  the  camp  the  truth  was  ascertained. 
Mr.  Knight  there  met  us  with  the  information  that  Francisco  had  told  him 
that  the  General  had  sent  for  the  horses  which  he  then  had,  for  the  purpose 
of  mounting  a  battalion  of  200  men  to  march  against  the  Americans  settled 
in  the  Sacramento  Valley,  and  that  he  (the  General)  intended  to  build  a 
fort  near  the  Bear  River  pass  in  the  California  mountains,  for  the  purpose 
of  preventing  the  ingress  of  the  expected  emigration. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  when  some  decisive  move  had  to  be  made. 
The  day  for  union  of  action  had  arrived.  The  proposition  was  made,  that 
a  sufficient  company  should  follow  the  Lieutenant,  and  take  the  horses,  not 
only  for  the  purpose  of  weakening  our  enemy,  but  if  possible  induce  him  to 
cross  the  American  Fork,  where  we  kept  the  property,  and  at  a  point  which 
would  give  us  the  advantage.  Without  waiting  for  organization  or  plan, 
twelve  men  volunteered  to  go.  Mr.  Merritt,  the  oldest  of  the  party,  was 
named  as  the  leader. 

We  left  the  Buttes  fifty-five  miles  above  the  American  Fork  at  10  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  and  by  night  crossed  it,  and  there  ascertained  that  the 
caviliado  had  passed  there  in  the  afternoon,  stopped  and  rested  our  horses, 
got  supper,  and  at  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  loth  of  June  we  surprised 
the  Lieutenant  in  camp,  near  the  Macosamy  river,  who  without  resistance, 
gave  up  his  arms  and  the  Government  horses. 

We  had  no  disposition  to  be  troubled  with  prisoners.  We  therefore  dis- 
missed him  with  his  party,  with  their  arms  and  a  horse  for  each.  One  pri- 
vate individual,  who  claimed  not  to  be  of  the  party  and  the  owner  of  six 


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THE   FIRST   CALIFORNIA   NEWSPAPER 


153 


General  Mariano  Gnadalupe  Vallejo  born  in  Monterey,  Cal.,  July,  1808, 
was  in  command  of  the  Mexican  forces  surrendered  to  the  Bear  Flaff 
INirty  at  Sonoma.  He  afterwards  became  a  warm  friend  of  the  American 
reffime  and  so  remained  during-  bis  life.  This  picture  is  reproduced  from  an 
old  print. 

horses,  Mr.  Merritt  informed  him  that  our  object  was  not  to  interfere  with 
private  property,  and  that  he  was  at  liberty  to  turn  out  his  horses,  which 
he  did. 

On  dismissing  the  party  they  were  informed  that  the  property  which  we 
had  taken  would  be  kept  together,  and  we  wished  them  to  tell  the  General 
tc  come  after  them,  but  to  bring  force  enough  to  get  them. 

This  was  the  first  overt  act  on  the  part  of  the  foreigners,  which  com- 
menced the  Revolution,  and  opened  the  breach  so  wide,  that  it  was  necessary 
that  all  should  take  grounds  for  one  side  or  the  other. 

This  act  was  immediately  followed  by  the  taking  of  the  town  and  Mission 
of  Sonoma,  which  occurred  on  the  morning  of  the  14th,    Our  little  party  had 


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154  OUT    WEST 

been  augmented  to  thirty-three,  still  under  command  of  Mr.  Merritt.  At 
Sonoma,  we  made  prisoners  of  General  Guadaloupe  M.  Vallejo,  Lieut.  Col. 
Prudon  and  Capt.  Don  Salvator  Vallejo.  This  move  was  made  under  the 
impression  that  the  General  had  a  very  great  influence  in  the  country,  and  by 
securing  him  we  might  secure  our  object  with  less  bloodshed  and  with  a 
better  effect  upon  the  people  of  California. 

As  we  have  now  got  through  the  first  movements  of  the  revolutionists,  it 
will  not  be  amiss  to  give  some  idea  of  the  people  with  whom  we  have  had 
to  deal. 

Our  remarks  in  our  last  number,  in  relation  to  Mexico,  is  strictly  true  as 
regards  California,  but  is  only  applicable  to  a  few  men,  who  kept  the  country 
in  a  constant  excitement,  with  no  other  object  in  view  than  their  own  ad- 
vancement. 

The  great  mass  of  the  people  of  California  are  a  quiet  inoffensive  people, 
and  but  for  those  ambitious  leaders,  would  remain  on  their  ranches,  a  con- 
tented and  happy  community,  and  under  a  good  government  would  be  valu- 
able citizens.  Many  of  them  are  men  of  fine  sense,  and  a  high  moral  worth, 
though  from  the  nature  of  their  government,  they  have  been  deprived  of  the 
means  of  education  to  a  great  extent. 

The  ladies,  who  are  numerous,  are  handsome,  and  some  of  them  beautiful, 
very  sprightly,  industrious,  and  amiable  in  their  manners,  affectionate  to  their 
relatives  and  friends,  kind  to  their  neighbors,  and  generous  even  to  their 
enemies,  and  we  are  much  in  hopes  that  their  mild  and  genial  influence  will 
go  far  to  bring  about  that  amity  of  feelings  which  is  so  desirable  between 
the  old  and  the  new  citizens  of  this  highly  favored  country. 

From  the  facts  which  took  place  at  the  taking  of  Sonoma,  I  feel  justified 
in  saying  that  the  world  has  not  hitherto  manifested  so  high  a  state  of  civ- 
ilization. The  reader  will  remember  that  the  party  which  took  Sonoma,  con- 
sisted of  thirty-three  men  gathered  in  the  country,  without  officers,  or  the 
slightest  degree  of  organization,  and  with  no  publicly  declared  object,  each 
man  having  felt  the  oppression  of  the  then  existing  government,  and  the 
certainty  of  an  increase  of  these  oppressions.  With  a  clear  sense  of  their 
danger,  their  rights  and  their  duty,  they  rushed  to  the  rescue  with  one  im- 
pulse and  one  object.  The  watchword  was  equal  rights  and  equal  laws,  and 
they  nobly  sustained  their  principles.  Sonoma  was  taken  without  a  struggle, 
in  which  place  was  nine  pieces  of  artillery,  about  200  stands  of  small  arms,  of 
public  property  which  was  taken  possession  of.  There  was  also  a  large 
amount  of  private  property,  and  a  considerable  amount  of  money,  all  of  which 
was  known  to  the  victors.  A  single  man  cried  out,  "Let  us  divide  the  spoils," 
but  one  universal,  dark,  indignant  frown  made  him  shrink  from  the  presence 
oi  honest  men,  and  from  that  time  forward  no  man  dared  to  hint  anything 
like  violating  the  sanctity  of  a  private  house,  or  touching  private  property. 
So  far  did  they  carry  this  principle,  that  they  were  unwilling  to  take  the 
beef  which  was  offered  by  our  prisoners.  The  General  sent  for  his  cavallada, 
and  offered  them  fresh  horses,  which  were  accepted,  but  with  the  determina- 
tion of  remunerating  him,  as  soon  as  the  new  government  should  be  estab- 
lished. The  party  had  been  made,  mostly  of  hunters,  and  such  men  as  could 
leave  home  at  the  shortest  notice.  They  had  not  time  to  dress,  even  if  they 
had  had  fine  clothes,  so  that  almost  the  whole  party  was  dressed  in  leather 
hunting  shirts,  and  many  of  them  very  greasy;  taking  the  whole  party  to- 
gether they  were  about  as  rough  a  looking  set  of  men  as  one  could  well 
imagine.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  one  would  feel  some  dread  of 
falling  into  their  hands,  but  the  prisoners  instead  of  being  dragged  away  with 


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THE   FIRST   CALIFORNIA    NEWSPAPER  155 

rough  hands  and  harsh  treatment,  met  nothing  but  the  kindest  of  treatment 
and  most  polite  attentions  from  the  whole  party,  and  in  fact  before  five  hours 
ride  from  their  homes  they  seemed  to  feel  all  confidence,  and  conversed 
freely  on  the  subject  of  the  establishment  of  a  better  government,  gave  their 
opinions  and  their  plans  without  any  apparent  restraint. 

The  writer  cannot  leave  this  part  of  the  subject  without  telling  an  anec- 
dote, which  will  illustrate  the  character  of  one  of  the  actors  in  this  scene. 
A  year  or  two  previous  one  of  the  prisoners  (Salvator  Vallejo)  in  an  official 
capacity  had  fallen  in  with  Mr.  Merritt,  the  leader  of  the  revolutionary 
party,  and  under  the  pretense  that  Mr.  Merritt  had  harbored  a  run-away 
man-of-warsman,  beat  him  severely  with  his  sword.  With  all  the  keen  re- 
sentment of  a  brave  man,  Mr.  Merritt  suddenly  found  this  same  man  in 
his  power;  the  blood  rushed  to  his  cheeks,  his  eyes  sparkled;  he  leaped  for- 
ward like  a  mad  tiger  in  the  act  of  springing  upon  his  prey,  and  in  an 
energetic  but  manly  tone  said:     "When  I  was  your  prisoner  you  struck  me; 


SONOMA  ABOUT  1840  From  an  old  print 

now  you  are  my  prisoner,  /  will  not  strike  you."  The  motives  which  had 
prompted  him  to  act  in  the  present  contest  were  too  high,  too  holy,  to  permit 
him  for  a  moment  to  suffer  his  private  feelings  to  bias  him  in  his  public 
duties. 

However  able  may  be  the  pen  which  shall  record  these  events,  none  but 
those  who  have  witnessed  the  moderation  and  uniform  deportment  of  the 
little  garrison,  left  at  Sonoma,  can  do  them  justice,  for  there  has  been  no 
time  in  the  history  of  the  world  where  men  without  law,  without  officers, 
without  the  scratch  of  a  pen,  as  to  the  object  in  view,  has  acted  with  that 
degree  of  moderation  and  strict  observance  of  persons  and  property  as  was 
witnessed  on  this  occasion. 

Their  children,  in  generations  yet  to  come,  will  look  back  with  pleasure 
upon  the  commencement  of  a  revolution  carried  on  by  their  fathers,  upon 
principles  high  and  holy  as  the  laws  of  eternal  justice. 

On  the  day  the  Americans  took  possession  of  Sonoma,  there  was  a  partial 
organization  under  the  name  of  the  "Republic  of  California,"  and  agreed  to 


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156  OUT    WEST 

hoist  a  flag  made  of  a  piece  of  white  cotton  cloth,  with  one  red  stripe  on 
the  bottom,  and  on  the  white  a  grizzly  bear  with  a  single  star  in  front 
of  him.  It  was  painted  or  rather  stained,  with  lampblack  and  poke-berries. 
Along  the  top  were  the  words,  ''Republic  of  Caupornia." 

A  small  garrison  was  left  at  Sonoma,  consisting  of  about  eighteen  men, 
under  command  of  Wm.  B.  Ide,  which  in  the  course  of  a  few  days  was 
increased  to  about  forty. 

On  the  i8th  day  of  June,  Mr.  Ide,  by  the  consent  of  the  garrison,  pub- 
lished a  proclamation  setting  forth  the  objects  for  which  the  party  had  gath- 
ered, and  the  principles  which  would  be  adhered  to  in  the  event  of  their 
success.  The  paper  itself  is  plain  and  concise,  and  needs  no  comments  of 
mine  to  recommend  it. 

A  Proclamation. 
To  All  Persons  and  Ciiisens  of  the  District  of  Sonoma,  Requesting  Them  to 
Remain  at  Peace,  and  Follow  Their  Rightful  Occupations  without  Fear 
of  Molestation, 


B»AR"  GUIDON 

Belonging  to  Sonoma  Troop,  California  Battalion,  now  In  posMsslon  of  San  Francisco 
Society  California  Pioneers. 

The  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Troops  assembled  at  the  Fortress  of  So- 
noma gives  his  inviolable  pledge  to  all  persons  in  California,  not  found 
under  arms,  that  they  shall  not  be  disturbed  in  their  persons,  their  property, 
or  social  relations,  one  with  another,  by  men  under  his  command. 

He  also  solemnly  declares  his  object  to  be,  first  to  defend  himself  and 
companions  in  arms,  who  were  invited  to  this  country  by  a  promise  of  lands, 
on  which  to  settle  themselves  and  families;  who  were  also  promised  a  Re- 
publican Government,  when  having  arrived  in  California  were  denied  the 
privilege  of  buying  or  renting  lands  of  their  friends,  who,  instead  of  being 
allowed  to  participate  in,  or  being  protected  by  a  Republican  Government,  were 
oppressed  by  a  military  despotism;  who  were  even  threatened  by  proclama- 
tion, by  the  chief  officers  of  the  aforesaid  despotism,  with  extermination  if 
they  should  not  depart  out  of  the  country,  leaving  all  their  property,  arms 
and  beasts  of  burden,  and  thus  deprived  of  the  means  of  flight  or  defense, 
we  were  to  be  driven  through  deserts  inhabited  by  hostile  Indians,  to  certain 
destruction. 


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THE   FIRST   CALIFORNIA    NEWSPAPER  157 

To  overthrow  a  government  which  has  seized  upon  the  property  of  the 
Missions  for  its  individual  aggrandizement;  who  has  ruined  and  shamefully 
oppressed  the  laboring  people  of  California,  by  their  enormous  exactions  on 
goods  imported  into  the  country,  is  the  determined  purpose  of  the  brave 
men  who  are  associated  under  my  command. 

I  also  solemnly  declare  my  object  in  the  second  place,  to  be  to  invite  all 
peaceful  and  good  citizens  of  California,  who  are  friendly  to  the  maintenance 
of  good  order  and  equal  rights,  and  I  do  hereby  invite  them  to  repair  to  my 
camp  at  Sonoma,  without  delay,  to  assist  us  in  establishing  and  perpetuating 
a  Republican  Government,  which  shall  encourage  virtue  and  literature;  which 
shall  leave  unshackled  by  fetters,  Agriculture,  Commerce  and  Manufactures. 

I  further  declare  that  I  rely  upon  the  rectitude  of  our  intentions;  the 
favor  of  Heaven,  and  the  bravery  of  those  who  are  bound  and  associated 


OKXOnrAI.  BBAR  FLAG 

Now  in  possession  of  San  Francisco  Society  California  Pioneers.  This  cnt  and  the  one 
on  opposite  pare  appeared  in  the  California  Bine  Book  for  1903,  and  were  loaned  to  Out 
West  by  Hon.  C.  P.  Cnrry,  Secretary  of  State. 

with  me,  by  the  principles  of  self-preservation;  by  the  love  of  truth   and 
the  hatred  of  tyranny  for  my  hopes  of  success. 

I  furthermore  declare  that  I  believe  that  a  government  to  be  prosperous 
and  happy,  must  originate  with  the  people  who  are  friendly  to  its  exist- 
ence, that  the  citizens  are  its  guardians;  the  officers  its  servants,  its  glory 
its  reward.  (Signed) 

William  B.  Ide. 

Headquarters,  Sonoma,  June  i8,  1846. 

About  the  time  the  foregoing  proclamation  was  issued  two  young  men, 
Mr.  T.  Cowie  and  Mr.  Fowler,  who  lived  in  the  neighborhood,  started  to  go 
to  the  Bonega;  on  their  way  they  were  discovered  by  a  small  party  of  Cali- 
fomians,  under  command  of  one  Padilia.  and  taken  prisoners;  they  were  kept 
as  prisoners  for  one  day  and  a  half,  and  then  tied  to  trees  and  cut  to 
pieces  in  the  most  brutal  manner.  A  Californian  known  as  Four-fingered 
Jack,  has  been  since  captured,  and  gives  the  following  account  of  that  horrible 
scene.    The  party,  after  keeping  the  prisoners  a  day  or  two,  tied  them  to 


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158  OUT    WEST 

trees,  then  stoned  them,  one  of  them  had  his  jaw  broken;  a  riata  (rope)  was 
made  fast  to  the  broken  bone  and  the  jaw  dragged  out;  they  were  then  cut 
up,  a  small  piece  at  a  time,  and  the  pieces  thrown  at  them,  or  crammed  in 
their  throats,  and  they  were  eventually  dispatched  by  cutting  out  their 
bowels. 

Fortunately  for  humanity,  these  cold-blooded,  savage  murders  were  soon 
put  to  an  end,  by  the  very  active  measures  which  were  taken  by  the  garri- 
son at  Sonoma,  having  heard  nothing  of  the  arrival  of  Cowie  and  Fowler  at 
their  place  of  destination,  suspected  that  they  had  been  taken,  and  probably 
kilkd;  and  hearing  that  three  other  prisoners  were  in  Padilla's  camp. 
Captain  Ford  (then  Lieutenant)  headed  a  party  of  twenty-two  men,  officers 
included,  and  took  the  road  for  the  enemys  camp,  which  had  by  this  time 
been  reinforced  by  Capt.  Joaquin  de  la  Torre  with  seventy  men.  It  was 
reported  that  their  headquarters  was  at  Santa  Rosa  plains,  to  which  point 
Ford  proceeded ;  finding  they  had  left,  followed  them  in  the  direction  of 
San  Rafael,  and  after  traveling  all  night,  making  about  sixty  miles  in  six- 
teen hours,  came  up  with  the  enemy,  twelve  miles  from  San  Rafael,  where 
they  had  stopped  to  get  breakfast. 

The  enemy  occupied  a  position  at  a  house  on  the  edge  of  the  plains,  about 
sixty  yards  from  a  small  grove  of  brushwood.  Capt.  Ford  having  several 
prisoners,  left  four  men  to  guard  them,  and  with  the  remainder,  advanced 
at  full  charge  upon  the  enemy.  As  soon  as  he  got  them  in  motion  he  fell 
back  into  the  brushwood,  directed  his  party  to  tie  their  horses  and  take 
such  positions  as  would  cut  off  the  Spaniards,  but  by  no  means  fire  until 
they  would  get  a  man,  which  order  was  so  well  obeyed  that  out  of  twenty  or 
twenty-five  shots  fired  by  the  Americans,  eleven  took  effect;  eight  of  the 
enemy  were  killed,  two  wounded,  and  one  horse  shot  through  the  neck. 
One  party  of  the  Californians  led  by  a  Sergeant,  whose  name  we  have  not 
been  able  to  get,  charged  up  handsomely,  but  the  deadly  fire  of  Ford's  rifle- 
men forced  them  to  retire  with  the  loss  of  the  Sergant  and  several  of  his 
men. 

The  fall  of  the  Sergeant  seemed  to  be  the  signal  for  retreat.  The  whole 
party  retired  to  a  high  hill  about  a  mile  from  the  field  of  battle.  Ford  and 
his  gallant  followers  waited  a  short  time,  and  finding  that  the  enemy  showed 
no  disposition  to  return  to  the  fight,  released  the  prisoners,  who  had  been 
taken  by  the  enemy,  and  then  went  to  a  corral,  where  they  found  a  large 
cavallada  of  horses,  and  exchanged  their  tired  horses  for  fresh  ones,  and  took 
the  road   for   Sonoma. 

The  Californians  on  this  occasion  did  not  sustain  the  reputation  they  had 
previously  gained;  they  were  eighty-six  strong,  while  Capt.  Ford  had  but 
eighteen  men  engaged. 

On  the  day  following  this  engagement  Major  Fremont  having  heard  that 
Don  Jose  Castro  was  crossing  the  bay  with  2C0  men,  marched  immediately, 
and  was  joined  by  the  garrison  at  Sonoma  on  the  23rd  of  June. 

Several  days  were  spent  in  active  pursuit  of  the  party  under  Capt.  de  la 
Torre,  but  they  succeeded  in  crossing  the  bay  before  they  could  be  overtaken 
by   Fremont. 

With  the  retreat  of  De  la  Torre,  ended  all  opposition  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  On  the  17th  of  June,  upon  receipt  of  the  news 
of  the  taking  of  Sonoma,  Don  Jose  Castro  issued  two  proclamations,  one 
addressed  to  the  old  citizens,  and  the  other  to  the  new  citizens  and  foreign- 
ers; both  of  them  are  well  written.  I  shall  here  insert  them,  that  my  readers 
may  see  from  the  sequel  how  much  sincerity  there  was  in  them. 


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159 


The  Citisen,  lose  Castro,  Lieut.  Col.  of  Cavalry  in  the  Mexican  Army,  and 
Acting  General  Commandant  of  the  Department  of  CaHfornia: 

Fellow  Citizens.  The  contemptible  policy  of  the  agents  of  the  United 
States  of  North  America,  in  this  department  has  induced  a  portion  of  ad- 
venturers, who,  regardless  of  the  rights  of  men,  have  daringly  commenced 
an  invasion  of  the  town  of  Sonoma,  taking  by  surprise  all  that  place,  th* 
military  commander  of  that  border,  Col.  Don  Mariano  Guadaloupe  Vallejo, 
Lieut.  Col.  Don  Victor  Purdon,  Capt.  Don  Salvador  Vallejo,  and  Mr.  Jacob 
P.  Leese.  , 

Fellow  Countrymen.  The  defense  of  our  liberty,  the  true  religion,  which 
our  fathers  possessed,  and  our  independence  calls  upon  us  to  sacrifice  our- 
selves rather  than  lose  the  inestimable  blessings,  banish  from  your  hearts  all 
petty  resentments,  turn  you,  and  behold  yourselves,  these  families,  these  inno- 
cent little  ones,  which  have  unfortunately  fallen  into  the  hands  of  our  ene- 
mies, dragged  from  the  bosoms  of  their  fathers,  who  are  prisoners  among 
foreigners,  and  are  calling  upon  us  to  succor  them. 

There  is  still  time  for  us  to  rise  "en  masse"  as  irresistible  as  retributive 
You  need  not  doubt  but  that  divine  providence  will  direct  us  in  the  way  to 
glory. 

You  should  not  vaccilate  because  of  the  smallness  of  the  garrison  of  the 
general  headquarters,  for  he  who  will  first  sacrifice  himself  will  be  your 
friend  and  fellow  citizen,  Jose  Castro. 

Headquarters,  Santa  Clara,  June  17,  1846. 

Citizen  Jose  Castro,  Lieut.  Col.  of  Artillery  in  the  Mexican  Army,  and  Acting 
General  Commander  of  the  Department  of  Upper  California: 

All  foreigners  residing  among  us,  occupied  with  their  business,  may  rest 
assured  of  the  protection  of  all  authorities  of  the  department,  whilst  they 
refrain  entirely  from  all  revolutionary  movements. 

The  general  commandancia  under  my  charge  will  never  proceed  with  vigor 
against  any  persons;  neither  will  its  authority  result  in  mere  words,  wanting 
proof  to  support  it.  Declaration  shall  be  taken,  proofs  executed,  and  the 
liberty  and  rights  of  the  laborious,  which  is  ever  commendable,  shall  be  pro- 
tected. 

Let  the  fortune  of  war  take  its  charm  with  those  ungrateful  men  who, 
with  arms  in  their  hands,  have  attacked  the  country,  without  recollecting 
they  were  treated  by  the  undersigned  with  all  the  indulgence  of  which  he  is 
so  characteristic. 

The  impartive  inhabitants  of  the  Department  are  witnesses  to  the  truth 
of  this. 

I  have  nothing  to  fear.  My  duty  leads  me  to  death  or  victory.  I  am  a 
Mexican  soldier,  and  I  will  be  free  and  independent,  or  I  will  gladly  die  for 
these   inestimable  blessings.  Jose   Castro. 

Headquarters,  Santa  Clara,  June  17,  1846. 


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160 

MRS.  BUMPER'S  INVESTMENT 

By  COURTENAY  DE  KALB 

R.  BOOSY  had  no  conception  that  he  was  about  to 
start  a  new  mining  company  on  the  road  to  pros- 
perity.    Had  such  a  suspicion  wavered  through 
the  crooked  mazes  of  his  brain,  it  would  have  em- 
barrassed him  into  making  a  failure.     He  was 
used    to    obliquities,    and    anything    direct    and 
straightforward    would    have    thrown    all    the 
mechanism  of  his  thinking  faculties  into  disorder.     This  was  per- 
haps not  his  fault.     The  hard,  bronzed  fellows,  who  lived  on  fat 
pork  and  flour,  while  they  scoured  the  hills  in  search  of  gold,  had 
an  inveterate  habit  of  bringing  barren  veins  to  his  attention ;  and,  if 
they  failed  to  offer  good  mines,  how  was  he  to  blame  that  he  must 
make  his  living  by  promoting  bad  ones?     He  had  not  chosen  the 
occupation.     He  had  accidentally  dropped  into  it.     From  being  a 
frequently  disappointed  prospector  himself,  he  had  suddenly  dis- 
covered, through  one  bold  effort  after  fortune,  that  his  talents  ex- 
celled in  the  persuading  of  other  men  to  indulge  in  a  species  of 
gambling  more  respectable  than  roulette  or  poker. 

To  be  sure,  this  gambling  phase  of  the  mining  business  is  very 
lamentable,  and  is  constantly  decried  by  an  increasing  army  of  men 
who  know,  and  would  fain  have  others  understand,  that  digging  up 
the  treasures  of  the  earth  is  one  of  the  safest  legitimate  forms  of 
industry  known  to  man,  as  it  is  also  one  of  the  most  ancient.  But 
Mr.  Boosy  nurtured  his  own  peculiar  kind  of  contempt  for  this 
technical  tribe  of  bubble-bursters,  and  shrewdly  avoided  in  his  ne- 
gotiations all  who  manifested  any  determined  inclination  to  patronize 
them.  Admit  one  of  the  prosaic  men  of  science  to  the  enterprise,  and 
all  the  romance  and  excitement  were  sure  to  be  knocked  out  of  it. 
Moreover,  what  could  mining  be  for  if  not  to  introduce  the  delights 
of  a  game  of  chance  into  the  humdrum  lives  of  steady  plodding  mer- 
chants and  lawyers,  and  such  stupidly  occupied  folk,  whom  Mr. 
Boosy  classified  collectively  as  '^gudgeons?" 

The  Golden  Gulch  mine,  accordingly,  was  in  due  process  of  being 
promoted.  The  bronzed  prospector  had  done  his  work,  which  con- 
sisted in  locating  a  claim  on  a  poor  little  ledge  of  rusty  stained 
quartz,  having  a  most  unpromising  sugary  texture,  and  an  utterly 
hopeless  geometrical  habit  of  jointure;  down  into  this  he  and  his 
dark-browed  partner  had  punched  a  hole,  more  or  less  properly 
termed  a  shaft;  and  the  local  assayer,  for  fifty  cents  each,  had  as- 
sayed a  dozen  samples,  which  revealed  more  gold  than  ever  such  a 
ledge  of  quartzite  was  guilty  of  carrying.  But  trifling  paradoxes 
of  this  nature  disturbed  not  the  magnificent  serenity  and  self-confi- 


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MRS.  BUMPER'S  INVESTMENT  161 

dence  of  Mr.  Boosy;  and  the  blue-eyed,  bronzed  man  of  the  hills 
and  his  gloomy  visaged  partner  were  concerned  only  in  the  pros- 
pective profits  of  Mr.  Boosy 's  game.  So  things  moved  merrily ;  and 
the  linen  merchant  on  Leonard  street,  the  wholesale  grocer  over  on 
Greenwich  street,  and  the  hardware  man  on  Chambers  street  never 
dreamed  how  like  the  turf  or  card  table  was  the  enterprise  into  which 
they,  and  others  of  similarly  respectable  business  habits,  were  cast- 
ing their  spare  thousands. 

It  does  not  appear  how  Mr.  Boosy  persuaded  them  that  there 
was  a  certain  specified  number  of  tons  of  rich  ore  in  sight,  and  that 
nothing  remained  to  be  done  but  organize  a  company  and  erect  a 
stamp  mill  to  extract — well,  Mr.  Boosy  had  figured  it  all  out  to  the 
last  item,  and  the  dollar  sign  was  a  long  way  to  the  left  of  the  paltry 
cents,  which  stood,  as  it  were,  a  guarantee  of  the  scrupulous  exact- 
ness of  his  mathematics.  But*  how  it  chanced  that  the  little  hook- 
nosed merchant  from  Leonard  street  saved  his  quota  contributed 
out  of  the  profits  on  Belfast  fabric,  and  that  the  wholesale  grocer 
lost  none  of  the  cheerfulness  from  his  florid  countenance — in  short, 
how  it  turned  out  that  the  Golden  Gulch  Mining  and  Development 
Company  did  actually  pay  dividends — ^is  a  matter  of  more  or  less 
authentic  tradition,  so  corrected  and  revised  by  gossippers  around 
sheet-iron  stoves  in  the  log  cabins  under  the  brows  of  the  Black 
Eagle  Mountains,  that  it  may  be  assumed  as  historically  probable, 
particularly  as  the  facts  were  collected  during  the  lifetime  of  con- 
temporaries. 

It  is  indisputable  that  at  the  period  when  Mr.  Boosy  was  trium- 
phantly closing  the  preliminaries  of  the  Golden  Gulch  negotiation, 
he  was  also  to  be  seen  more  frequently  than  usual,  on  sunshiny  after- 
noons, riding  in  Central  Park  in  a  phaeton  with  a  blooming  matron 
of  the  genial  name  of  Bumper — the  Widow  Bumper,  that  is — in 
whose  society  he  was  unmistakeably  happy,  and  he  was  wont  to  rein 
up  his  chestnut  pony  not  far  from  a  little  lake  well  known  to  every 
Gothamite,  and  discourse  on  the  poetic  death-song  of  the  swans, 
which  somehow  he  managed  to  force  into  appropriate  connection  with 
the  current  of  previous  conversation.  It  is  also  reported — ^the 
Widow  Bumper  herself  mentioned  this  as  an  instance  of  his  poetic 
tendencies — that  he  once  stopped  thus  and  reverted  to  the  pathetic 
legend  when  there  was  nothing  but  a  sooty-colored  brant  standing 
asleep  on  one  leg  by  the  margin  of  the  pond.  But  this  insensibility 
to  delicate  scientific  discriminations  is  really  quite  apart  from  the 
story.  It  serves  to  accentuate  a  natural  proclivity  of  Mr.  Boosy's 
mind,  and  hence  has  a  merely  collateral  interest. 

The  Widow  Bump'^r  herself  possessed  no  poetic  gifts,  but  she  was 
exceedingly  tolerant  of  them  in  her  companions,  and  as  she  was 
endowed  with  a  liberal  measure  of  material   blessin^^s   she  drew 


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162  OUT    WBST 

around  her  a  coterie  of  well-meaning  individuals  who  frequently 
compelled  her  to  listen  to  flights  of  fancy  tempered  with  phrases 
which,  embellished  with  greater  art,  one  may  find  profusely  scat- 
tered through  the  pages  of  Petrarch.  Like  many  another  broad- 
minded  and  tolerant  person,  it  had  hitherto  proven  a  hopeless  under- 
taking to  persuade  her  to  give  in  her  allegiance  and  devotion  to  any 
particular  profession — or  professor.  Mr.  Boosy,  however,  had 
claims  of  a  superior  sort,  which  made  him  persona  grata  with  the 
Widow  under  any  and  all  circumstances.  Many  a  suitor  had  been 
exasperated  at  seeing  how  her  round  eyes  squinted  into  two  brown 
dimples  above  her  rosy  cheeks  with  every  effort  at  humor  on  the 
part  of  this  worthy  gentleman,  when  others  only  succeeded  in  elicit- 
ing a  tolerant  yawn,  half  hidden  behind  her  black  and  scarlet  fan. 

Mr.  Bumper,  the  lamented  Mr.  Bumper,  was  a  very  small  angular 
man,  with  a  very  thin  cracked  voice,  which  was  doubtless  the  rea- 
son why  he  selected  Mrs.  Btmiper  as  his  wife,  in  whom  there  were 
no  perceptible  angles ;  whose  form  and  voice  were  both  well  rounded 
and  ample.  Mr.  Bumper,  being  lamented,  had  of  course  gone  the 
way  of  his  fathers,  and  a  crayon  portrait  of  him  hung  over  the 
parlor  mantle-piece  in  the  Widow's  apartments.  In  the  days  when 
Mr.  Bumper's  voice  still  retained  some  resonant  suggestions  of 
tender  youth,  he  had  plunged  into  the  excitements  of  the  mining 
world,  had  speedily  parted  with  his  patrimony,  and  had  then  en- 
tered upon  the  uncertain  career  of  a  prospector.  His  wife,  it  so 
happened,  was  one  of  those  creatures  who  seem  to  have  been  born 
to  enjoy  the  abundant  fruits  of  the  earth  in  a  quiet  fashion  like 
animals  which  chew  the  cud,  and  hence  seldom  want  for  comforts 
as  do  those  who  depend  upon  prey  caught  by  skill  and  stratagem. 
And  her  husband  profited  by  the  lucky  stars  under  which  she  entered 
this  existence.  Certainly  it  was  not  because  his  claim  was  worth  the 
paper  on  which  Mr.  Boosy  had  the  prospectus  printed  that  Mr. 
Bumper  received  the  snug  sum  of  forty  thousand  dollars.  Why  the 
claim  was  appraised  at  forty  thousand  it  were  vain  to  enquire.  Mr. 
Boosy,  following  a  prevalent  fashion,  always  allowed  the  prospector 
either  forty  thousand  or  sixty  thousand  dollars,  whenever  he 
**floated"  what  he  termed  a  "proposition." 

Straightway  Mrs.  Bumper  came  West  to  join  her  husband,  and 
they  built  a  rectangular  frame  house  which  was  painted  yellow  to 
harmonize  with  the  yellow  clays  and  rocks  that  surround  the  camp 
of  Buff  Mountain.  The  only  contrast  amidst  all  this  isaffron  glare 
was  the  pink  Mrs.  Bumper,  who  habitually  sat  on  the  little  verandah 
in  a  big  red  chair  every  afternoon  and  fanned  herself. 

Meanwhile  Mr.  Bumper  spent  his  time  as  one  of  the  capitalists 
of  the  district,  squeaking  about  mines  in  his  thin  cracked  voice  down 
at  Jim  Flaherty's  saloon.    With  reckless  confidence  in  himself,  be- 


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MRS.  BUMPER'S  INVESTMENT  163 

cause  of  a  success  which  he  had  utterly  forgotten  was  due  entirely 
to  the  worldly  wisdom  of  Mr.  Boosy,  he  expended  generous  sums 
in  "grub-staking"  indigent  companions  of  his  previous  prospecting 
days,  which  shouldered  him  with  an  annual  outlay  of  a  hundred 
dollars  each  for  development  work  on  a  host  of  worthless  claims. 
He  was  also  a  liberal  subscriber  to  every  newly  organized  local  min- 
ing company,  until  one  June  day  when  he  had  a  reckoning  with  his 
bankers  which  revealed  a  deficit  of  so  serious  a  nature  as  to  drive 
him  straight  into  alcoholic  oblivion  to  earthly  cares.  This  condition, 
being  sedulously  maintained,  enabled  Mrs.  Bumper  after  a  certain 
period  to  inscribe  "Requiescat  in  Pace,"  or  its  equivalent,  upon  a 
tOTibstone  in  the  Buff  Mountain  cemetery. 

After  this  unhappy  event  Mrs.  Bumper  received  numerous  char- 
itable proposals  to  remain  under  an  altered  cognomen  as  the  orna- 
ment of  Buff  Mountain  society ;  but  with  a  disdain  which  must  have 
further  jaundiced  a  goodly  portion  of  this  saflFron  town,  she  gathered 
up  her  belongings,  and,  with  Master  Bumper  clinging  to  her  skirts, 
departed  for  the  old  home  in  "York  State."  Before  taking  this 
step,  however,  there  had  been  a  rather  vigorous  correspondence 
that  gave  the  postmaster  and  his  cronies  much  cause  for  anxious 
speculation,  but  which  led  to  nothing  more  serious  than  the  "float- 
ing" of  another  "proposition"  by  Mr.  Boosy.  In  consequence  there 
was  a  period  of  violent  activity,  very  profitable,  while  it  lasted,  to 
the  moribund  camp  in  the  yellow  hills,  while  one  of  the  late  lamented 
Mr.  Bumper's  claims  was  being  exploited  under  the  euphonious 
title  of  the  Buff  Mountain  Belle,  for  which  Mrs.  Bumper  received 
the  larger  of  Mr.  Boosy's  standard  sums  in  payment  for  a  mining 
property. 

With  this  as  a  basis  the  Widow  moved  into  the  metropolis,  and 
report  had  it  that  the  sum  augmented  rapidly  through  her  shrewd- 
ness as  an  investor.  However  this  may  be,  the  Widow  Bumper 
lived  in  elegance  of  a  sort  which  Mr.  Boosy,  with  his  profound 
knowledge  of  metropolitan  life,  recognizing  as  betokening  a  reserve 
capital  far  exceeding  that  which  his  generous  impulses  had  led  him 
to  extract  from  a  select  group  of  very  innocent  "gudgeons"  in  het 
behalf.  This  evidence  of  thrift  was  very  pleasing  to  her  benefactor, 
and  served  to  greatly  increase  the  admiration  and  devotion  which 
he  frequently  informed  her  she  had  inspired  in  him  from  the  mo- 
ment of  their  earliest  meeting.  The  only  action  of  the  Widow 
which  displeased  him — a  displeasure  which  he  was  careful  not  to 
dilate  upon  too  broadly— consisted  in  her  determination  to  dedicate 
Master  Bumper  to  the  mining  world  as  an  educated  mining  engineer. 
In  this  she  was  largely  following  the  guiding  counsel  of  her  beloved 
pastor,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Snooks,  whose  bosom  friend  was  a  professor 
in  a  venerable  institution  which  has  sent  its  alumni  to  the  ends  of 


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144  OUT    WEST 

the  earth — mining,  particularly  gold  mining,  being  usually  con- 
ducted at  the  most  extremely  inaccessible  ends  thereof.  This  ab- 
surd notion  of  the  Widow,  so  utterly  at  variance  with  the  ideas 
of  Mr.  Boosy,  was  the  chief  evidence  of  sentiment  which  she  had 
ever  displayed,  being  manifestly  intended  as  a  compliment  to  the 
lamented  Mr.  Bumper. 

Nevertheless  the  perils  of  dwelling  in  close  relations  with  one  of 
these  prickers  of  promoters'  bubbles  could  not  overbalance  the  ad- 
vantages of  basking  in  the  sunshine  of  the  Widow's  golden  munifi- 
cence, which  would  surely  fill  his  life  with  unfailing  joy  when  she 
had  assumed  the  dignity  of  being  Mrs.  Boosy.  Perhaps  the  late 
Mr.  Bumper  being  thereafter  less  lamented  than  formerly,  she 
might  be  induced  to  change  the  career  of  Master  Bumper  to  that 
of  an  innocuous  architect,  this  being  a  profession  which  Mr.  Boosy 
was  accustomed  to  extol  as  one  of  the  noblest  which  a  man  could 
follow.  He  even  hinted — such  was  his  dread  of  the  technical  mining 
man  that  he  would  have  been  willing  to  tolerate  the  perpetual  pres- 
ence of  the  abominable  little  image  of  Mr.  Bumper  changed  to 
architect — ^he  even  hinted  broadly,  as  an  inducement,  that  this  would 
result  in  keeping  the  dear  boy  at  home  instead  of  consigning  him  to 
the  ultimate  ends  of  nowhere.  Granting,  however,  that  this  dis- 
agreeable feature  of  the  situation  might  have  to  be  accepted,  Mr. 
Boosy  took  consolation,  after  his  poetic  habit,  in  murmuring  to 
himself,  "No  rose  without  a  thorn,"  at  which  the  vision  of  the  pink 
Mrs.  Bumper,  and  the  golden  horn  which  she  held  at  her  dispensa- 
tion, suffused  his  soul  with  happiness.  So  he  made  one  final  charge, 
captured  the  citadel,  and  gave  the  vanquished  all  the  honors  of 
war. 

Success  of  this  sort,  outside  of  his  usual  vocation — for  the  sordid 
promoter  was  no  disciple  of  Lothario — so  affected  his  nerves  that 
he  nearly  aroused  suspicion  as  to  the  sanity  of  the  Golden  Gulch 
project  among  his  downtown  friends  by  the  exuberance  of  his  lan- 
guage and  laughter  on  the  following  day.  The  hook-nosed  linen 
merchant  was  not  disposed  to  jollity  in  business,  and  he  so  care- 
fully concealed  from  himself  the  blindness  of  his  new  investment 
that  he  was  inclined  to  regard  it  in  the  light  of  a  sober,  serious 
transaction.  The  wholesale  grocer  from  Greenwich  street  more 
frankly  termed  it  "a  toss  of  a  penny,"  and  he  met  Mr.  Boosy's  ex- 
hilaration of  spirits  with  equally  gay  banter,  and  swore  that  when 
the  Golden  Gulch  mine  went  the  usual  way  of  such  enterprises  he 
would  chuck  him  into  his  hole  in  the  ground  and  fill  the  dump  pile 
back  in  upon  him,  and  thus  have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that 
one  promoter  was  well  buried,  with  the  shaft  to  his  memory  turned 
downwards  into  the  earth,  as  would  be  manifestly  fitting  for  a  per- 
son of  his  vocation.    The  company  was  duly  organized,  and  incor- 


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MRS,  BUMPER'S  INVESTMENT  165 

porated  with  the  advantages  of  the  liberal  legal  latitude  accorded  by 
the  statutes  of  West  Virginia.  The  books  were  then  magnanimously 
opened  to  the  public  for  subscriptions  to  stock  on  a  "ground  floor 
basis,"  as  Mr.  Boosy's  advertisement  in  the  Commercial  Annun- 
ciator proclaimed  on  the  succeeding  morning. 

At  this  juncture  Mr.  Boosy  was  called  away  to  Philadelphia  by  a 
telegram  from  his  associate  in  a  little  coal  deal,  which,  being  mod- 
erately legitimate,  was  being  promoted  as  a  side  issue  entirely.  The 
coal,  it  must  be  noted,  however,  was  very  sulphurous,  but  Mr. 
Boosy's  congenial  associate  had  skillfully  contrived  to  let  all  the 
tell-tale  "entries"  cave  in,  keeping  open  only  those  which  showed  the 
vein  in  better  condition.  Accordingly  Mr.  Boosy  did  not  see  the 
Widow  Bumper  for  a  week,  though  he  wrote  her  daily.  The 
Widow's  talents  did  not  lie  in  epistolary  effort,  but  she  sent  her  lover 
in  return  a  box  of  Huyler's  Best,  with  a  note  of  loving  common- 
places, the  writing  of  which  brought  a  greater  excess  of  bloom  to  her 
cheeks,  and  more  perspiration  to  her  brow,  than  her  usually  deliber- 
ate movements  had  encouraged  for  many  a  year. 

It  was  on  a  Tuesday  that  he  telegraphed  her,  "Arrive  New  York 
tomorrow ;  directors'  meeting  in  afternoon ;  see  you  in  the  evening." 
Certainly  this  was  innocent  enough,  as  it  was  also  perfectly  unneces- 
sary. Moreover,  it  precipitated  a  crisis,  as  unnecessary  communica- 
tions are  prone  to  do. 

The  directors  were  in  full  deliberation,  with  Mr.  Boosy  explain- 
ing what  returns  could  be  counted  upon  from  a  sixty-stamp  mill, 
the  items  being  again  worked  out  in  the  presence  of  the  assembled 
company  for  the  sake  of  impressing  two  outsiders  who  had  been  in- 
vited to  the  meeting  in  the  hope  that  they  would  take  advantage  of 
the  opportunity  to  invest  before  the  stock  should  prove  too  valuable 
to  admit  of  taking  in  every  Tom,  Dick  and  Harry  on  the  adevrtised 
"ground  floor  basis." 

The  office  boy  knocked  at  the  door.  "A  lady  to  see  Mr.  Boosy, 
sir." 

"May  I  come  in?"  called  a  cheery,  robust  voice,  and  before  Mr. 
Boosy  could  say  "yes"  or  "no,"  the  ruddy  Mrs.  Bumper  was  shower- 
ing rose-smiles  upon  the  directors'  meeting  at  random.  Mr.  Boosy 
nearly  lost  his  self-control,  but  the  wholesale  grocer  beamed  his 
broadest  smilt  of  welcome,  and  slipped  the  easy  office  chair  from  be- 
neath the  rising  form  of  the  linen  merchant,  and  trundled  it  around 
into  an  open  space,  bowing  the  Widow  to  a  seat  in  a  manner  that 
showed  him  to  be  a  man  whom  the  presence  of  woman  could  in  no 
wise  daunt. 

"I  am  interruptin'  your  work,  mebbe,"  remarked  Mrs.  Bumper, 
producing  a  fan  and  shaking  it  violently  in  little  useless  flutters  in 
front  of  her  pink  countenance. 


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166  OUT    WBST 

"We  were  only  discussing  a  proposition/'  began  the  linen  mer- 
chant in  his  rigid  way. 

"Propositions !"  sighed  the  Widow.  "One  of  Mr.  Boosy's  propo- 
sitions!   He's  always  proposin' — " 

The  wholesale  grocer  nearly  turned  a  somersault,  and  slapped 
Mr.  Boosy  vigorously  on  the  back.  Then,  catching  the  severe  eye 
of  the  linen  merchant,  and  the  reproachful  glare  of  Mr.  Boosy,  he 
stopped  short.  Mr.  Boosy  was  aching  to  capture  the  conversation. 
He  seized  the  interval  of  the  wholesale  grocer's  hesitation  to  begin. 

"Man  proposes,  but — " 

"The  Widow  disposes!"  ejaculated  the  incorrigible  grocer.  The 
meeting  unanimously  laughed,  including  a  feeble  gurgle  from  the 
linen  merchant.  "Pardon,  my  dear  madam,"  he  went  on,  "but  Mr. 
Boosy  has  made  me  his  confidant.  I  move  that  it  be  the  sense  of  this 
meeting  that  Mrs.  Bumper  and  Mr.  Boosy  be  and  hereby  are 
heartily,  warmly,  and  generously  congratulated  upon  recognizing 
their  mutual  fitness  to  sail  the  seas  of  life  together.  No  dissenting 
voices,  Mr.  Chairman!  Please  announce  the  resolution  as  unani- 
mously carried." 

The  linen  merchant  obeyed  orders  in  an  unnatural  schoolboy  fash- 
ion, and  looked  tremendously  bored,  while  the  Widow  smiled  and 
grew  rosier  than  ever. 

"Now,  madam,"  pursued  the  grocer,  "you'll  say  that  I've  been 
very  impolite,  but  really  you  have  no  more  thorough  well-wisher 
in  the  whole  of  New  York  than  myself— you  and  Mr.  Boosy,  too. 
Please  accept  my  personal  congratulations  in  addition." 

The  Widow  was  entirely  restored  to  equanimity,  and  the  whole 
company  felt  immensely  relieved. 

There  was  a  short  pause.  Even  Mr.  Boosy  knew  not  how  to  avail 
himself  of  it.  He  had  completely  lost  his  bearings.  It  was  now  the 
Widow's  turn. 

"I  have  come  on  a  matter  of  business  which  will  excuse  me  for 
intrudin',"  she  said.  (Mr.  Boosy  twitched  nervously).  "I  seen 
your  advertisement  in  the  Commercial  Annunciator,"  she  went  on, 
"an'  I  thought  I'd  jes'  drop  roun'  with  a  view  to  puttin'  in  a  little 
money  of  my  own,  thinkin',  too,  it  might  s'prise  an'  please  Mr. 
Boosy." 

Whether  that  gentleman  was  pleased  or  not,  he  certainly  was  sur- 
prised. He  grew  pale,  while  at  the  same  time  hot  flashes  chased 
each  other  up  his  spinal  column.  The  linen  merchant's  eyes  snapped 
with  commercial  glee,  and  the  remainder  of  the  party  smiled  in 
pleasant  asknowledgment. 

"Some  of  my  mortgages  have  just  come  due,  an'  knowin'  how 
successful  and  careful  Mr.  Boosy  is" — the  grocer  here  slapped  Mr. 
Boosy  on  the  back,  which  sent  cold  shivers  down  to  his  toes — "I 


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MRS.  BUMPER'S  INVESTMENT  167 

was  a-thinkin'  as  I  couldn't  do  better  than  come  in  while  you  had 
an  entrance  on  the  groun'  floor." 

Mr.  Boosy  gasped  and  grew  paler,  and  the  linen  merchant  averred, 
"The  very  best  time,  madam." 

"Now,  Boosy,  this  is  the  best  proof  of  your  persuasive  powers 
over  the  investor  you  have  ever  given  us,"  exclaimed  the  wholesale 
grocer,  but  Mr.  Boosy  paid  no  attention  to  the  compliment. 

"You  see,"  continued  the  Widow,  speaking  very  earnestly,  "I 
have  a  boy,  jes'  the  livin*  likeness  of  his  dear  father,  who  by  the 
way  was  a  minin'  man  himself,  who  is  studyin*  for  a  minin' 
engineer,  an'  this  might  be  a  good  openin'  for  him  to  begin  to 
git  experience." 

The  company  nodded,  and  Mr.  Boosy  pushed  his  chair  back  so 
abruptly  that  he  knocked  a  pitcher  oflf  the  table.  It  was  a  fortunate 
accident.  Under  cover  of  the  temporary  excitement  it  produced  he 
regained  some  measure  of  his  self-possession,  though  he  continued 
very  white  in  the  face. 

"How  much  stock  may  we  write  you  down  for,  madam?"  asked 
the  linen  merchant,  who  was  beginning  to  suspect  that  this  was  a 
pretty  scheme  of  Mr.  Boosy's  to  foist  a  relative  upon  the  company. 
He  was  a  poor  judge  of  human  nature. 

"Well,  say,  forty  thousand  dollars'  worth,"  replied  Mrs.  Bumper, 
looking  very  self-satisfied. 

No  one  observed  the  ghastly  expression  on  Mr.  Boosy's  face.  He 
arose  quickly,  saying,  "Excuse  me  a  moment,"  and  rushed  out  of 
the  room. 

"That  makes  you  the  largest  stockholder  in  the  company,  Mrs. 
Bumper,"  observed  the  linen  merchant,  "and  almost  secures  to  you 
the  controlling  interest." 

"Mr.  President,  write  me  down  for  an  additional  ten  thousand 
dollars'  worth,"  piped  the  wholesale  grocer,  "and  then,  madam," 
said  he,  bowing  profoundly  to  the  blooming  Widow,  "my  stock 
always  votes  with  yours.  You  are  supreme.  It  wouldn't  do  to 
have  a  woman  in  the  company  who  wasn't.* 

"I'll  come  in  for  ten  thousand,"  remarked  one  of  the  outsiders 
who  had  caught  the  infection. 

"And  I'll  stand  even  with  Mr.  Boggs,"  enthusiastically  exclaimed 
the  other  outsider. 

The  door  opened,  and  Mr.  Boosy,  very  calm  but  very  pallid, 
walked  gravely  in. 

"Mr.  Boosy,"  said  the  linen  merchant,  "according  to  a  previous 
resolution  of  the  directors  the  subscription  books  of  the  company 
will  now  stand  closed  to  the  public.  With  the  additions  to  the  treas- 
ury made  today,  a*3:gregating  seventy  thousand  dollars,  we  are  in 
no  need  of  funds  to  begin  operations.     You  may  order  the  neces- 

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168 


OUT    WEST 


sary  machinery  for  The  Golden  Gulch  Mining  nnA  Development 
Company  at  once." 

"I  will  start  tonight,"  replied  Mr.  Boosy. 

*'What,  tonight!     I  thought  you  never  broke  a  promise!"  ejacu- 
lated Mrs.  Bumper. 

''Mrs.  Bumper  controls  the  company,"  chirped  the  grocer.    "Be- 
ware how  you  disobey  orders,  Boosy !" 
"Under  the  circumstances — "  began  the  unhappy  Mr.  Boosy — 
"You  will  respect  your  engagements,"  concluded  the  Widow. 
This  much  was  enacted  in  public,  and  hence  is  absolutely  au- 
thentic history.    Whether  Mr.  Boosy  called  on  the  Widow  Bumper 
that  evening  is  unknown,  but  the  general   impression  prevailing 
around  the  sheet-iron  stoves  up  in  the  Black  Eagle  Mountains  is 
that  he  did,  and  it  is  further  related  that  he  telegraphed  the  company 
a  few  days  later  from  Chicago  that  he  must  visit  their  property  to 
make  some  additional  observations — he  did  not  mention  what  kind 
— before  placing  the  order  for  a  mill.    Tradition  has  it  that  he  went 
straight  to  the  cabin  of  the  blue-eyed,  bronzed  prospector;  that  a 
violent  storm  was  commonly  understood  to  be  central  in  that  lo- 
cality; that  a  few  words  and  phrases  escaped,  which  had  peculiar 

significance,  such  as  "worthless  claim,"  "d d  barren  quartzite," 

"rotten  hole  in  the  ground,"  etc.  The  exact  truth  concerning  all 
this  is  still  not  thoroughly  substantiated,  but  a  few  days  after  the 
mysterious  interview  in  the  aforesaid  log-cabin  a  most  promising 
prospect  on  an  adjacent  ridge  was  purchased  by  the  prospector  for 
Mr.  Boosy  and  his  associates  for  a  sum  nearly  equal  to  the  pending 
payment  on  the  Golden  Gulch  claim,  which  was  then  called  the 
Golden  Gulch  Annex;  the  stamp  mill  was  ordered  and  erected  on 
this  latter  claim,  and  soon  began  turning  out  bars  of  precious 
bullion;  and  at  last  accounts  Mr.  Boosy  was  "floating"  another 
"proposition,"  as  a  sort  of  peace  oflfering,  for  the  blue-eyed,  bronzed 
prospector  and  his  dark  visaged  partner,  on  a  sixty  thousand  dollar 
option.  Concerning  this,  the  leading  gossip  of  the  ten-plate  stove 
fraternity  remarked,  "Fll  bet  my  hat  Mr.  Boosy  don't  let  Mrs 
Boosy  put  forty  thousand  into  that  air  new  company." 

MojaTe,  Cal. 


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169 

THE   ATTITUDE   OF   SOUTH   AMERICA 
TOWARD  THE  MONROE  DOCTRINE 

By  A,  /.  LAMOUREAUX 

|T  IS  not  always  possible,  perhaps,  to  reduce  ques- 
tions of  international  policy  to  precise  terms ;  but, 
as  it  has  been  the  practice  in  this  country  thus  far 
to  clearly  define  our  purposes  and  then  to  pursue 
them  openly  and  frankly,  I  see  no  reason  why  we 
should  not  do  the  same  with  what  is  still  called 
the  Monroe  Doctrine.  We  have,  of  course,  been 
greatly  favored  by  conditions  and  circumstances — our  isolation,  free- 
dcHTi  from  entangling  alliances,  and  absorption  in  purely  home  in- 
terests. Since  the  Spanish-American  war,  however,  the  situation 
has  changed  very  materially.  The  possession  of  dependencies  in 
other  parts  of  the  world  has  widened  our  horizon  and  has  trans- 
formed us  into  what  is  called  a  "world  power."  We  are  no  longer 
the  simple  inhabitants  of  a  pent-up  Utica,  preoccupied  with  hus- 
bandry, manufacture  and  commerce.  We  have  become  a  great  mil- 
itary power ;  we  have  interests  beyond  our  own  boundaries  that  must 
be  developed  and  protected;  and  we  have  new  ambitions.  We  arc 
entering  upon  a  new  period  in  our  existence,  and  we  should  de- 
termine at  once  whether  it  shall  be  on  lines  of  conduct  in  harmony 
with  the  spirit  of  our  free  institutions,  or  on  those  of  the  mon- 
archical governments  we  have  so  freely  condemned  in  the  past.  No 
American,  I  am  sure,  would  favor  the  adoption  of  the  maxim, 
"Might  makes  right,"  yet  we  are  dangerously  near  the  unconscious 
acceptance  of  such  a  policy. 

It  will  be  apparent  to  the  observant  citizen  that  the  character  of 
our  future  international  policy  will  be  determined  largely  by  the 
Monroe  Doctrine.  It  was  a  very  simple  matter  at  the  outset — a 
purpose  to  prevent  an  armed  intervention  by  the  Holy  Alliance  for 
the  recovery  of  Spain's  lost  colonies,  and  to  check  Russian  coloniza- 
tion in  the  Northwest.  At  the  same  time,  to  show  that  we  had  no 
selfish  interest  in  the  question  beyond  the  protection  of  our  own  ter- 
ritory, we  disavowed  any  intention  of  interference  with  existing 
European  colonies,  and  declared  our  true  policy  to  be  non-interven- 
tion in  the  struggle  between  Spain  and  her  rebellious  colonies. 

The  occasion  for  this  declaration  soon  disappeared  through  the 
dissolution  of  the  Holy  Alliance  and  the  settlement  of  the  boundary 
dispute  between  Great  Britain  and  Russia.  The  "doctrine"  had  no 
further  interest  for  us  thereafter  until  the  Yucatan  question  of  1848. 
when  President  Polk  declared  that  we  could  not  permit  the  transfer 
of  any  American  territory  to  a  European  power.  John  C.  Calhoun, 
a  surviving  member  of  President  Monroe's  cabinet,  asserted  that 


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170  OUT    WEST 

this  position  was  not  contemplated  in  the  original  "doctrine"  laid 
down  in  1823.  Since  then  we  have  had  many  other  additions  and 
interpretations — all  designed  to  extend  our  influence  and  control  in 
Latin  America.  Secretaries  Frelinghuysen  and  Blaine  even  wanted 
to  have  it  understood  that  no  European  power  could  act  as  an  arbi- 
trator in  American  disputes,  while  Secretary  Olney  openly  de- 
clared that  "our  fiat  is  law  on  this  continent."  And  now,  as  a  logical 
conclusion  to  the  position  we  have  assumed,  President  Roosevelt 
wants  to  have  the  United  States  assume  control  over  the  finances 
and  foreign  affairs  of  the  weaker  American  republics  and  thus  be 
in  a  position  to  compel  them  to  meet  their  international  obligations. 
If  we  are  to  protect  them  against  foreign  intervention,  we  ought 
either  to  assume  responsibility  for  their  acts,  or  to  compel  them  to 
give  satisfaction  according  to  the  requirements  of  international  law 
— and  it  is  to  meet  this  logical  conclusion  that  the  recent  declaration 
in  the  Santo  Domingo  treaty  was  made. 

In  addition  to  these  expansions  of  the  original  Monroe  Doctrine, 
every  one  of  our  citizens  has  a  right  to  interpret  it  for  himself  and 
to  give  that  interpretation  publicity.  There  are  thousands  of  them 
on  record,  all  authoritative  and  most  of  them  prophetic  of  the  ulti- 
mate absorption  of  both  continents  by  the  United  States.  It  is  not 
surprising,  therefore,  that  President  Schurman,  of  Cornell  Uni- 
versity, should  find  the  trend  of  public  opinion  in  this  country 
strongly  in  favor  of  the  annexation  of  most  of  the  South  American 
states,*  but  it  is  surprising  that  he  allowed  the  occasion  to  pass 
without  a  vigorous  protest.  The  purpose  is  criminally  wrong,  and 
he  should  have  said  so.  Our  Latin-American  neighbors  have  some 
rights  in  the  transaction  that  ought  to  be  considered  and  respected, 
and  we  have  no  more  right  to  dispose  of  their  independence  and 
territory  in  this  way  than  one  citizen  has  to  dispose  of  the  person 
and  property  of  a  neighbor.  It  was  bad  enough  when  Secretary 
Olney  declared,  "The  United  States  is  practically  sovereign  on  this 
continent,  and  its  fiat  is  law  upon  the  subjects  to  which  it  confines  its 
interposition."! 

Under  circumstances  so  discreditable  to  ourselves,  it  ought  to  be 
the  duty  of  every  good  citizen  of  the  United  States  to  insist  upon  the 
immediate  adoption  of  a  definite  policy,  to  the  end  that  justice  may  be 
done  to  all  the  parties  concerned,  and  that  our  own  honor  may  not 
be  further  tarnished.  If  we  have  no  intention  of  interfering  with 
the  liberties  of  our  sister  republics,  then  let  us  say  so  in  a  manner 
that  will  stop  all  future  talk  about  a  protectorate,  annexation,  ab- 
sorption, or  sovereignty,  on  this  continent.  As  the  case  now  stands, 
our  neighbors  have  very  little  confidence  in  our  declarations  and  pur- 
poses.J  They  believe  we  intend  to  annex  them  whenever  it  suits 
our  purpose,  and  unfortunately  the  greater  part  of  our  public  utter- 
ances warrant  such  a  conclusion. 

*In  an  address  before  a  New  York  assemblage.  President  Schtfrman  is  credited  with  say- 
ing :  **  I  do  not  believe  that  the  annezation  of  all  the  West  Indies  and  most  of  the  South 
American  States  would  be  a  very  ag-reeable  thiuff  for  us,  but  the  trend  is  that  way.** — 
Associated  Press  report. 

tSecretary  01ney*s  dispatch  to  Minister  Bayard  on  the  boundry  dilute  between  British 
Guiana  and  Venezuela. 

t**The  recent  action  of  Mr.  Roosevelt's  government  in  reirard  to  Panama  has  roused  dis- 
trust all  over  South  America.  There  has  been  for  many  years  a  lack  of  confidence  on 
the  part  of  Spanish-speaking-  Americans  in  regard  to  the  policy  of  the  United  States, 
and  in  view  of  the  Panama  affair  i'a  lonir  time  must  lapse  before  this  is  removed.*' 
C.  K.  AKB88  Hutory  of  South  America,  p. '655. 


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THE  ATTITUDE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  171 

Now  let  us  see  what  the  South  American  thinks  about  it.  As 
we  ourselves  are  unable  to  define  the  Monroe  Doctrine,  he  is  com- 
pelled to  choose  between,  or  to  reconcile,  two  conflicting  opinions. 
So  far  as  it  serves  to  protect  him  against  European  intervention, 
either  for  the  collection  of  debts,  or  the  dispensation  of  justice,  or 
the  redress  of  injuries,  he  warmly  supports  it  and  is  willing  to 
sanction  it  by  treaty  or  convention.  The  proposals  recently  made 
to  us  by  the  Argentine  government  and  the  declarations  made  at  the 
last  Pan-American  conference  show  that  this  interpretation  of  the 
Monroe  Doctrine  receives  his  cordial  assent.  But  let  it  be  assumed 
that  this  doctrine  gives  the  United  States  a  paramount  influence  on 
these  two  continents,  or  that  it  implies  control,  or  protectorate  of 
some  kind,  and  he  will  oppose  it  with  all  the  energy  of  his  nature. 
While  many  alien  residents  of  South  America,  engaged  in  commer- 
cial and  industrial  pursuits,  would  be  glad  to  exchange  present  dis- 
orders for  the  settled  government  we  could  give  them,  the  native 
South  American  would  resist  such  a  change  to  the  bitter  end.  And 
in  this  he  would  be  supported  by  the  g^eat  majority  of  the  European 
settlers  in  those  countries.  Talk  as  we  may  of  the  political  sympa- 
thies and  affinities  that  should  bind  the  republics  of  North  and  South 
America  together,  the  fact  remains  that  we  as  a  people  are  cor- 
dially disliked  in  South  America.  And  if  we  care  to  analyze  the  sub- 
ject a  little  further,  we  will  find  that  we  have  shown  thus  far  and 
are  still  showing  very  little  sympathetic  interest  for  the  South 
American  and  his  affairs.  On  what  grounds,  then,  are  we  to  de- 
velop more  intimate  relations  under  the  so-called  Monroe  Doctrine? 
They  certainly  will  not  submit  to  any  assumption  of  authority  or 
control  from  us;  and  we  have  no  intention  of  assuming  responsi- 
bility for  them  without  it. 

There  are  several  peculiar  features  in  this  question,  as  viewed 
from  a  South  American  standpoint,  that  ought  to  be  considered  by 
us  before  we  proceed  further.  They  indicate  the  influences  that  are 
against  us  and  the  attitude  that  must  logically  result  from  any  at- 
tempt on  our  part  to  control  the  destinies  of  these  republics. 

In  the  first  place  it  must  be  remembered  that  South  America  is 
settled  by  people  of  the  Latin  race  and  Roman  Catholic  faith.  The 
student  of  history  will  recall  the  traditional  antagonism  between  the 
Latin  and  the  Anglo-Saxon ;  that  antagonism  is  as  strong  in  South 
America  today  as  it  is  in  Spain.  During  the  Spanish- American  war, 
the  popular  sentiment  was  decidedly  in  favor  of  Spain.  In  addi- 
tion to  this,  the  attitude  of  the  church  is  against  us  because  we  are 
Protestants  and  favor  secular  education.  It  is  sometimes  said  that 
Rome  and  Latin  Europe  are  dreaming  of  a  great  Latin,  Roman  Cath- 
olic power  in  South  America,  whidi  shaU  rival  the  Anglo-Saxon 
Protestant  republic  of  the  north  in  strength  and  influence ;  and  there 
is  more  in  the  thought  than  we  imagine.*  Should  that  dream  ever  be 
realized,  we  shall  find  that  we  made  a  mistake  in  not  encouraging 
the  occupation  of  Southern  Brazil  by  Protestant  Germans.  The 
danger  we  should  provide  against  in  the  future  will  not  come  from 
the  encroachments  of  monarchical  Europe,  but  from  the  rivalry  of 
the  tmited  republics  of  South  America. 

•An  American  professor  who  spent  some  time  in  Italy  last  year,  was  surprised  to  find  a 
Tifforons  students'  society  in  that  country  devoted  to  the  realization  of  Latin  unity 
throuffhont  the  world.  There  is  also  another  society  in  Spain  and  Spanish  America 
deTOted  to  the  creation  of  a  Latin-American  Union. 


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OUT    WEST 


In  the  next  place,  it  is  remembered  that  we  did  very  Httle  to  assist 
the  Spanish-Americans  in  their  struggle  for  independence.  They 
were  able  to  raise  money  in  Europe  to  carry  on  the  war,  and  from 
the  same  source  came  men  and  arms  and  sympathetic  encourage- 
ment. It  took  us  twelve  years  after  the  struggle  began  to  find  suffi- 
cient reasons  to  warrant  a  recognition  of  their  independence,  al- 
though three  days  were  sufficient,  a  short  time  since,  to  convince 
us  that  Panama  was  prepared  to  take  her  place,  and  meet  her  obli- 
gations, among  the  sovereign  nations  of  the  world.  The  South 
American  mind  is  intensely  provincial,  and  these  inconsistencies 
have  made  a  deep  and  lasting  impression.  They  are  proofs  to  him 
that  our  attitude  toward  South  America  has  been  unsympathetic  and 
selfish,  all  the  way  through. 

Now  let  us  turn  to  the  turbulent  years  that  have  followed  the 
overthrow  of  Spanish  rule  in  South  America.  Sometimes,  when 
we  are  urging  him  to  grant  us  special  commercial  favors  and  to 
place  himself  unreservedly  under  our  leadership,  the  South  Amer- 
ican is  impelled  to  ask :  "Why  should  I  ?  What  have  you  ever  done 
for  me  to  merit  such  a  favor?"  He  knows  what  Europe  has  done, 
for  the  evidence  is  to  be  found  on  every  page  of  his  history  and  in 
every  step  he  has  been  able  to  take  during  these  terrible  years  for 
the  betterment  of  his  country.  His  public  loans  were  raised  in 
Europe,  and  from  Europe  came  the  capital  required  for  railways, 
port-works  and  other  public  improvements.  The  first  steamship  line 
on  his  coast  was  organized  by  an  American  who  had  to  go  to  Europe 
for  the  capital  to  do  it.  His  ports  were  brought  into  regular  com- 
mercial relations  with  the  outside  world  by  Europeans,  and  his 
commerce,  domestic  as  well  as  foreign,  has  been  developed  by  Euro- 
pean capital  and  enterprise.  All  the  advancement  in  civilization  he 
has  made  has  been  achieved  through  European  agencies,  and  it  is 
to  that  source,  not  to  the  United  States,  that  he  is  looking  for  en- 
couragement and  help  in  the  future.  In  spite  of  the  Monroe  Doc- 
trine, Europe  is  colonizing  his  unsettled  lands  with  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  emigrants  and  her  capital  and  trade  are  steadily  se- 
curing new  footholds  within  his  undeveloped  territories.  Europe  is 
his  mother  country;  and  gratitude  alone,  to  say  nothing  of  his 
future  hopes,  should,  and  does,  make  him  loyal  to  her. 

Against  all  this,  what  have  we  done,  and  what  have  we  to  oflfer? 
He  has  no  use  for  our  free  institutions,  for  they  have  thus  far  been 
a  pitfall  in  his  road ;  and  he  cannot  see  what  benefit  is  to  be  had  from 
a  commercial  policy  that  oflfers  no  equivalent  for  what  it  asks.  He 
is  entitled  to  all  the  opportunities  the  world  has  to  oflfer,  and  he 
sees  no  advantage  in  turning  his  back  upon  his  best  friend  and  his 
best  market,  merely  to  satisfy  the  political  sentiment  and  ambition 
of  a  neighbor. 

Stanford  Unlrcrslty. 


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173 


Precisely  as  no  other  country  in  the  world  was  ever      ^  ^^^ 
so  fast  settled  with  such  a  large  population  of  so  high  matter 

culture  as  Southern  California,  so  probably  no  other  equal  of  diet 

area  on  the  earth's  surface  has  still  so  much  to  learn  as  to  the 
hygienic  and  social  adaptations  necessary  to  fit  the  new  environ- 
ment. 

In  more  primitive  countries  more  primitive  people  have  grown 
up  with  the  land.  By  the  slow  butting  of  their  heads  against 
the  stone  wall  of  experience,  they  have  found  out  how  to  live 
economically  where  they  are.  The  Eskimos  and  the  Hawaiians 
have  not  come  to  it  by  International  Medical  Congresses,  nor 
by  State  Boards  of  Health — any  more  than  a  wild  horse  has  to 
call  a  veterinary  to  know  if  he  should  eat  a  certain  weed.  God 
gave  him  sense  to  know  for  himself — and  God  was  as  good  to 
the  other  animals.  By  that  slow  but  adequate  process  known 
as  common  sense  (because  it  used  to  be  common),  they  eat  fat 
in  the  arctic  regions  and  fruit  in  the  tropics.  Our  college  pro- 
fessors and  captains  of  industry  go  touring  to  these  lands  and 
wonder  why  their  little  stomachs  ache  them  when  they  eat  pre- 
cisely as  they  did  at  home.  They  think  it  howlingly  funny  that 
the  Labradorians  will  steal  the  expedition's  tallow  candles  for 
the  illumination  of  their  inside  rooms.  They  find  a  sharp  humor 
in  the  ignorance  of  the  tropic  savage  who  does  not  care  for  a 
tenderloin  steak.  But  as  a  matter  of  fact,  they  themselves  are 
the  joke. 

Southern  California  is  a  country  whose  climatic  conditions  and 
consequent  food  requirements  are  absolutely  different  from  those 
of  the  lands  from  which  ninety-five  per  cent,  of  its  people  came. 
Ninety  per  cent,  of  them,  however,  still  go  on  contentedly  eat- 
ing precisely  as  they  did  in  a  climate  of  boreal  winters  and  of 
holocaust  summers;  of  high  humidity,  slow  radiation  and  Gen- 
eral Cussedness.  Very  few  of  them  have  as  yet  learned  any- 
thing from  the  people  who  learned  California  thoroughly  before 
the  new-comers  were  born.    They  look  with  curious  eyes  at  the 


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174  OUT    WEST 

person  who  eats  chile.  They  have  not  yet,  as  a  class,  adopted 
— even  fifty  per  cent,  of  them — ^a  single  food-staple  of  those  uni- 
versally endemic  in  every  country  whose  climate  and  food  needs 
are  similar  to  those  of  Southern  California — Greece,  Italy,  Spain, 
Mexico,  et  al. 

The  use  of  chile  is  just  as  much  a  hygienic  necessity  in  this 
country  as  the  use  of  salt  is  everywhere.  No  universal  food 
habit  of  a  simple  people  is  in  vain.  The  Californians  did  not 
know  by  definition  why  they  ate  chile,  any  more  than  a  cow 
knows  why  she  prefers  alfalfa  to  salt  grass.  Neither  needs  defi- 
nition. God  knew ;  and  gave  them  both  sense  enough  at  the  out- 
set to  eat  even  without  a  doctor's  prescription. 

Briefly  speaking,  the  fact  is  that  in  any  arid  climate — and 
Southern  California,  though  on  the  sea-coast,  ranks  with  the 
arid  climates — the  tendency  of  the  liver  to  become  torpid  can  be 
permanently  counteracted  in  a  population  only  by  the  use  of 
some  such  stimulant.  And  it  isn't  any  hardship  to  take  the  medi- 
cine ;  as  all  who  have  ever  learned  it  know  that  nothing  is  more 
genial  to  the  internal  economy  or  to  the  palate. 

Much  stronger  than  this  reluctance  to  learn  an  obvious  les- 
son, is  the  persistent  neglect  of  the  most  remarkable  food-staple 
in  this  or  any  other  sunny  land,  the  olive.  In  Italy  and  in  Spain 
the  workman  toils  hard  all  day  on  a  ration  of  a  little  black  bread 
and  a  handful  of  ripe  olives.  He  not  only  toils  but  keeps  in  fine 
physical  condition. 

This  little  berry  of  the  tree  whose  leaf-clouds  have  all  a  silver 
lining,  is  meat,  vegetables  and  dessert.  It  will  support  life  and 
vigor  longer  and  fuller  than  almost  any  other  known  article. 
In  Spain  and  Italy  they  eat  the  olive  ripe ;  the  g^een  olives  they 
give  to  their  own  pigs  and  bottle  for  American  consumption. 
There  are  probably  people  who  "like"  g^een  olives ;  just  as  there 
are  youthful  persons  to  whom  a  stolen  g^een  apple,  one  inch  in 
diameter,  is  better  than  a  perfected  Pearmain;  but  the  green 
fruit  has  neither  taste,  nutrition  nor  merit;  whereas  the  ripe 
fruit  is  not  only  a  sustenance  but  a  delicacy. 

For  fully  twenty  years  attempts  have  been  made  to  introduce 
the  California  ripe  olive  to  Eastern  and  local  markets.  It  is  not 
much  of  a  tribute  to  our  intelligence  that  they  have  not  meas- 
urably succeeded.  Not  that  the  fault  is  all  on  the  part  of  the 
consumer — carelessness  and  bad  faith  and  laziness  on  the  part  of 
the  olive-grower  are  quite  as  often  responsible  as  the  reluctance 
of  Superior  People  to  adopt  something  that  was  not  invented 
where  they  were  bom. 

The  common  habit  of  pickling  olives  by  leaching  them  with 
lye,  may  well  excuse  a  manifold  disgust    An  olive  ripe  is  largely 


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IN  THE  LION'S  DEN  175 

oil.  Oil  and  lye  make  soap.  Some  of  the  better  soaps  would  be 
perhaps  as  pleasant  eating  as  a  lye-cured  olive.  On  the  other 
hand,  a  good  Mission  olive — and  the  berry  the  Franciscan  fath- 
ers introduced  more  than  a  century  ago,  is  still  better  than  any 
of  the  new-fangled  varieties — leached  for  forty  days  in  clean 
running  water,  to  take  out  the  bitterness,  and  then  put  down  in  a 
proper  brine  for  safe  keeping,  is  about  as  attractive  a  food  as  can 
be  found.  It  is  a  mistake  to  look  upon  the  olive  as  a  "relish" — 
it  is  a  staple  of  sustenance,  a  staff  of  life. 

The  difficulty  of  shipping  ripe  olives  has  militated  against  the 
industry;  but  here  again  we  may  well  learn  a  lesson  from  older 
lands.  Like  any  other  fruit,  a  ripe  olive  is  about  half  water. 
Properly  leached  and  properly  dried,  shrunken  thereby  in  the 
same  proportion  that  a  prune  is,  the  olive  can  be  kept  and  trans- 
ported as  easily  as  any  other  dried  fruit,  and  is  of  vastly  more 
dietary  value  than  any  of  them.  It  is  also  even  more  delicious 
for  the  dr3ring. 

It  will  be  a  good  day  for  the  stomachs  of  California  and  for 
its  pockets  when  we  learn  a  little  better  to  "eat  according  to  the 
country." 

It  means  something,  that  today  the  Southwest  has —  a  sign 
with  headquarters  in  its  metropolis,  but  with  its  interests  of  thb 

and  its  membership  broadly  outspread — ^by  far  the  larg-  times 

est  archaeological  society  in  America ;  probably  the  largest  in  the 
world.  And  not  only  the  largest  but  by  much  the  most  active. 
And  not  only  largest  and  most  active  in  archaeology — it  is 
doubtful  if  any  affiliated  society  in  the  world,  in  any  branch  of 
science  whatsoever,  is  today  as  large  and  as  growing. 

It  means  several  things ;  all  of  which  are  uncommon  in  a  "ma- 
terial" age  that  is  mostly  in  the  long  run  altogether  immaterial 
because  it  doesn't  count.  It  means  for  one  thing  that  Respect 
is  not  yet  dead.  Bowing  to  the  Gilded  Calf  is  not  Respect — it  is 
idolatry,  and  cheap  and  hayseed  idolatry  at  that,  even  as  it  was 
in  Aaron's  day.  The  growth  of  the  Southwest  Society  of  the 
Archaeological  Institute  of  America  is  a  filial  thing.  Civilization 
is  full  of  Vicarious  Parents  and  of  Spoiled  Children — ^but  there 
are  some  of  the  Old  Sort  left  of  both.  Every  decent  father 
hopes  his  child  shall  be  better  than  he ;  every  decent  child  would 
like  to  be  as  good  as  his  father.  It  is  only  among  the  abject  and 
degenerate  that  parents  farm  their  issue  out  to  hirelings,  and 
that  children  patronize  their  parents. 

A  young  community  has  undertaken  the  responsibilities  of 
manhood.  It  begins  with  Respect.  It  means  to  have  Science — 
and  it  knows  that  Science  isn't  to  be  "done"  like  a  town-lot  boom. 


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176  OUT    WEST 

The  standards  have  been  found  by  our  elders.  What  we  are 
doing — and  are  going  to  continue  to  do— is  to  apply  to  those 
recognized  standards  the  generous  muscle  and  mind  of  Youth. 
We  are  more  supple  than  our  grandfathers ;  we  can  work  faster 
and  play  harder  than  they.  But  the  Ten  Commandments  that 
were  good  enough  for  them  are  still  our  standard. 

Time  and  sunlight  and  the  attraction  of  gravitation  are 
QUIET  not  particularly  noisy ;  but  they  do  more  in  a  day,  and  every 

FORCES  jj^y^  ^Q  ^Y\t^  f^^^  q£  ^i^jg  terrestrial  ball,  and  to  the  life  of 
its  parasites  of  all  sorts,  than  all  the  thunderstorms  and  earth- 
quakes that  ever  were.  As  a  rule  in  Nature  the  jgreatest  forces 
are  quiet. 

This  is  sometimes  so  in  life,  since  even  human  life  retains 
more  or  less  of  Nature.  It  is  so  in  the  personal  experience  of 
most  people.  Those  who  have  shaped,  and  colored,  and  enlight- 
ened our  lives  are  not  the  persons  whose  names  we  see  "feat- 
ured" in  the  newspapers.  Most  of  us  have  been  fortunate  enough 
not  to  find  our  mother's  name  in  large  type. 

Some  thought  of  this  inevitably  comes  up  when  one  con- 
templates the  un-notorious  but  vital  birthday  which  was  quietly 
celebrated  last  month.  Forty  years  ago  on  the  6th  of  July  there 
was  printed  in  New  York  the  first  number  of  The  Nation. 

There  is  no  way  of  proving  that  this  terse,  convenient  weekly 
paper,  with  a  circulation  of  practically  the  same  size  that  this 
magazine  has  enjoyed  for  years,  has  had  more  lasting  influence 
on  the  best  thought  of  America  than  any  other  journal  whatso- 
ever— by  no  means  omitting  the  dailies  of  the  largest  circula- 
tion. On  the  other  hand,  there  is  no  way  of  proving  that  it 
has  not;  and  thoughtful  people  will  seriously  incline,  as  a  rule, 
to  believe  that  it  has.  Those  who  read  The  Nation,  trust  it; 
and  they  are  an  elect  company.  Almost  unknown  to  the  care- 
less and  superficial.  The  Nation  is  a  household  word  wherever 
there  are  scholars.  It  is  the  only  publication  in  America  or  in 
the  world  in  its  class.  Politically,  it  is  somewhat  academic,  and 
not  in  as  much  sympathy  as  one  might  wish  with  practicable 
politics — while  its  staunch  oposition  to  "practical  politics"  is  to 
its  eternal  honor. 

It  is  the  only  publication  I  know  of  in  the  United  States  which 
can  be  scientifically  classed  as  a  review.  There  is  no  such  thing 
as  authoritative  criticism  of  fiction ;  for  fiction  is  a  mere  matter 
of  opinion;  but  in  all  works  of  permanent  value.  The  Nation's 
reviews  are  consistently  the  most  expert  and  the  most  reliable 
in  the  New  World.  It  has  been  from  the  start  its  practice  to 
commit  these  responsibilities  to  real  experts — and  among  its 
contributors  it  has  embraced  and  does  embrace  the  foremost 


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IN   THE   LION'S  DEN  177 

men  and   women  of  letters,  of   science,  and  of   art  in    America. 

Among  the  men  who  have  helped  to  give  its  character,  as  con- 
tributors, have  been  Longfellow,  Lowell,  Whittier,  Goldwin 
Smith,  Prof.  Child,  Henry  James,  Charles  Eliot  Norton,  D.  C. 
Oilman,  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Dr.  McClintock,  Phillips 
Brooks,  Bayard  Taylor,  Richard  Grant  White  and  others  of  the 
old  days.  Four  of  these  still  live  and  still  continue  their  con- 
nection.    Their  successors  are  its  contributors  now. 

Extraordinary  as  is  the  character  of  this  review,  it  is  still  more 
extraordinary  that  a  single  man  should  have  directed,  through- 
out these  forty  years,  its  intellectual  course.  Wendell  Phillips 
Garrison,  to  whom  this  high  distinction  belongs,  is  still  the  lit- 
erary editor  of  The  Nation — and  one  of  the  rarest  men  God 
ever  made  to  bless  a  country  withal.  With  his  poise  and  his 
serenity,  he  bids  fair  to  last  for  many  years  longer ;  and  no  better 
fortune  could  befall  the  upper  circles  of  thought  and  scholarship 
in  this  country  than  his  persistence  with  us  in  his  present  capa- 
city. Modest,  fearless,  gentle;  of  personal  and  literary  taste 
seldom  matched;  with  the  blood  of  his  father,  the  illustrious 
Liberator,  Mr.  Garrison  proves  that  to  do  good  to  the  public 
mind  and  morals,  to  be  influential  and  to  lead  men,  one  need  be 
neither  sensational  nor  thrusting. 

An  illustrious  company  of  American  scholars,  headed  by 
Charles  Eliot  Norton,  celebrated  the  fortieth  anniversary  of  The 
Nation  by  presenting  to  Mr.  Garrison  a  noble  silver  vase  of  clas- 
sic design,  with  the  following  inscription,  written  by  Goldwin 
Smith : 

Presented  to 

Wendell  Phillips  Garrison 

as  a  token  of  gratitude  for  service 

rendered  his  country  by  his  forty  years 

of  able,  upright  and  truly  patriotic  work 

in  the  editorship  of  The  Nation, 

6th  July,  1905. 

But  John  D.  Rockefeller  is  much  better  known  by  name. 

The  Sense  of  Proportion  is  a  good  thing  to  keep  in  the     ufe 
family.     It  is  even  worth  the  trouble,  occasionally,  of      as  seen  through 
going  out  to  borrow  a  mouse  and  an  elephant,  that  we        '^^^  newspapers 
may  set  them  upon  the  parlor  floor,  side  by  side,  and  sit  down 
and  study  carefully  which  really  does  weigh  the  more. 

There  is  no  lactometer  by  which  the  Board  of  Health  can  de- 
cide how  much  we  water  our  belief  in  what  we  read ;  nor  probably 
does  any  man  know  for  himself.  Apparently,  however,  his  be- 
lief is  pretty  well  thinned  down. 


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178  OUT    WBST 

It  is  a  curious  experiment,  which  might  be  worth  trying.  If 
a  man  were  to  rise  up  from  the  breakfast  table  and  the  morning 
paper  really  expecting  to  go  out  into  the  kind  of  world  he  sees 
mirrored  there — that  is,  not  on  his  table,  but  in  his  paper — he 
would  gird  on  a  gun,  a  suit  of  armor,  a  life  preserver,  a  policeman 
and  two  or  three  witnesses  before  he  adventured  forth  to  his 
business.  The  world  as  he  has  seen  it  in  this  half  hour  is  made 
up  of  about  four  pages  of  adulterers,  grafters,  thieves,  murder- 
ers, wife-beaters  and  swindlers,  and  some  pages  more  of  pink- 
tea  people  who  summon  a  reporter  to  witness  and  promulgate 
their  decorations,  their  silver  and  their  "progressive"  time-kill- 
ing. It  is  true  that  down  in  a  corner,  in  an  unconsidered  "stick- 
full,"  he  could,  by  burrowing,  find  out  that  there  were  one  or 
two  persons  in  town  visibly  or  invisibly  engaged  in  minding 
their  own  business  and  behaving  themselves.  He  might  even 
find  the  suggestion — fitted  for  American  consumption  by  that 
flippancy  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  necessary  sauce  before  you 
can  get  the  reader  to  swallow  anything  solid — ^that  there  are  art 
and  scholarship  and  education  and  the  fear  of  God  in  the  com- 
munity whereupon  he  pays  taxes. 

But  when  he  pushes  back  his  chair  and  chucks  the  newspaper 
on  the  floor  and  goes  forth  to  face  this  alleged  overwhelming 
world-tragedy  of  mingled  crime  and  silliness,  he  may,  if  he  ever 
stops  to  think,  wonder  how  the  thunder  things  ever  got  so 
twisted.  He  trots  forth  with  a  stomach  at  ease  and  climbs 
(with  agility  proportionate  to  his  frame)  upon  one  of  Mr.  Hunt- 
ingfton's  calm  if  immediate  cars.  Other  citizens  are  there  before 
him,  and  behind.  Most  of  them  seem  to  have  had  breakfast  also, 
and  to  hold  it  easy  "in  their  midst."  He  is  not  likely  to  detect 
any  of  them  with  an  air  of  dodging  the  sheriff;  nor  are  deeds  of 
blood  in  a  fair  way  to  be  enacted  in  the  next  seat.  He  gets  off 
on  a  street  which  may  be  as  well  paved  as  Hell  with  good  in- 
tentions, but  has  also  adequate  California  asphalt.  A  good  many 
thousand  other  citizens  are  taking  temporary  advantage  of  its 
sidewalks ;  they  seem  to  be  going  about  their  business ;  and,  so 
far  as  he  can  see  by  their  bearing,  it  is  legitimate  business.  The 
chances  are  a  thousand  to  one  that  in  the  course  of  his  whole 
day  he  will  never  be  again  reminded  that  there  is  a  murderer, 
or  a  wife-robber  or  other  scrub  within  the  city  limits — ^until  he 
next  takes  up  a  paper.  He  likes  some  people  better  than  others, 
and  more  than  many  he  respects  the  brains  and  the  hearts  of 
some;  but  as  a  broad  average  he  finds  himself  in  contact  with 
pretty  decent  men  and  women,  living  lives  that  make  neither 
very  much  noise  nor  very  much  smell.  He  not  only  does  not 
hold  his  hand  on  his  pockets,  scalp  and  heart  at  every  step — 


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IN   THE   LION'S  DEN  179 

he  does  not  in  the  least  expect  to  be  swindled,  robbed  or  eloped 
with  in  the  course  of  any  ordinary  business  day. 

We  don't  have  as  much  time  as  might  be  to  think,  nor  as  much 
provocation;  for  it  is  somewhat  easier,  in  our  busy  day,  not  to 
think.  But  anyone  who  has  this  uncomfortable  symptom  occa- 
sionally, must  occasionally  wonder  why  it  is  that  even  good 
newspapers  see  a  cross-eyed  world  of  which  ninety  per  cent,  is 
of  the  criminal  stripe  to  make  a  "story" — ^and  that  nobody  out- 
side the  newspaper  office  ever  found  the  world  that  way. 

Thank  God,  there  isn't  any  such  world  as  we  daily  read  about. 
Thank  God,  there  never  will  be. 

It  is  encouraging  to  note  that  the  fine  little  California     the  value 
city  of  San  Buenaventura  is  agitating  for  the  restoration  of 

of  its  historic  name.    There  are  some  new  comers  there  ^  name 

who  think  that  the  bob-tailed  "Ventura"  is  better;  but  even 
these,  when  they  come  to  think,  will  probably  think  better. 
More  thoughtful  people  are  already,  as  would  be  expected,  in 
favor  of  retaining  the  name  which  the  town  always  had  until  a 
cheap  postoffice  clerk  in  Washington  changed  it;  a  name  which 
means  something  in  history  and  in  fact,  and  which  carries  also 
(what  is  far  from  a  trifle)  the  value  of  romance. 

Some  excellent  people  forget  that  sentiment  is  a  part  of  busi- 
ness. The  Spanish  names  of  California  are  a  distinct  asset.  To 
mutilate  them  ignorantly  is  a  business  mistake.  It  is  like  ex- 
changing a  fine  painting  for  a  country  job-office  poster. 

Along  with  the  Landmarks  Club  and  State  Bank  Commis- 
sioner Eldredge,  the  Outdoor  Art  League  of  California  (with 
headquarters  at  San  Francisco)  has  also  taken  up  this  matter. 
The  state  legislature  has  adopted  joint  resolutions  urging  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt  and  the  Postmaster  General  to  preserve  the  old 
Spanish  names  of  cities  and  towns  in  California,  in  their  orig- 
inal form,  so  far  as  possible. 

When  the  Lion  first  sat  down  in  a  Los  Angeles  of  12,000     once 
people,  over  twenty  years  ago,  he  decided  that  if  he  should  and 

stay  in  God's  Country  he  would  Pay  his  Board.     By  so  ^^  ^^^ 

much  as  he  preferred  it  above  all  other  towns  to  live  in,  he  felt  be- 
holden to  work  for  it.  And  he  chose  in  general  the  things  he  could 
do  and  that  no  one  else  cared  to. 

Since  then,  he  has  had  many  camps,  but  only  one  home.  He  has 
tried  to  learn  a  little  in  other  lands — but  always  for  use  in  the 
Chosen  one.  For  something  over  ten  years,  now,  he  has  been  back 
at  home.  For  all  that  ten  years  he  has  given  nine-tenths  of  his 
time  and  effort  to  this  community — without  compensation  whatso- 
ever, direct  or  indirect— except  the  comfort  of  seeing  things  Done 


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180  OUT    WEST 

that  needed  Doing.  It  is  some  satisfaction  to  work  in  and  for  such 
a  community.  The  first  competent  public  movement  in  the  United 
States  to  save  historic  landmarks  was  born  here  and  is  now  ten 
years  old.  Its  local  fruit  is  that  already  we  have  saved,  for  lOO 
years  to  come,  four  such  monuments  as  no  other  state  in  the  Union 
possesses.  Besides,  the  example  has  spread  to  do  good  in  many 
other  states. 

Not  the  first,  but  the  most  effective,  organization  in  America  to 
remedy  the  notorious  abuses  of  our  Indian  policies  was  born  here 
four  years  ago.  There  are  people  who  think  Indians  a  joke.  Schol- 
ars do  not.  And — as  their  good  dollars  prove — men  and  women  of 
heart  and  brains  do  not  see  it  "funny"  that  anyone  should  be  robbed 
or  evicted  or  starved  in  a  State  of  the  American  Union. 

The  largest  and  most  active  archaeological  society  in  America — 
probably  in  the  world — is  another  child  of  Los  Angeles,  now  nine- 
teen months  old,  but  able  to  walk,  talk  and  eat  meat.  Besides  its 
service  to  the  scholarship  of  the  world — already  internationally  rec- 
ognized— this  society  has  seriously  undertaken  to  give  this  city  the 
best  museum  of  its  size  yet  extant — and  has  already  proved  that  it 
can  "make  good."    All  these  are  alive  and  growing. 

The  Lion  hasn't  done  these  things — the  community  has.  But  he 
has  helped. 

In  the  same  spirit  he  has  undertaken  now  a  larger  usefulness — 
even  at  the  risk  of  a  nominal  recompense  (a  monthly  salary  of  the 
amount  he  gets  for  one  story). 

The  Lion  is  now  legally  appointed,  sworn  and  effective  Librarian 
of  the  City  of  Los  Angeles.  For  the  first  time  in  seventeen  years 
he  is  answerable  to  any  other  human  choice  than  his  own — and  when 
he  cannot  longer  "answer,"  he  can  get  out.  Which  he  will.  But 
until  he  does  get  out,  he  is  going  to  see  that  something  is  Done. 

Los  Angeles  has  now  rather  more  than  12,000  people.  Its  popu- 
lation is  about  200,000 ;  and  the  city  is  about  twentieth  in  size  in  the 
Union.  Its  library  is  about  sixteenth  among  American  public  li- 
braries in  number  of  volumes.  In  its  clerical  efficiency  it  is  among 
the  first.  Since  our  club  women  and  school-children  are  more  alert, 
and  our  time-heavy  tourists  more  numerous  than  those  of  any  other 
equal  American  city,  our  circulation  per  volume  and  per  capita  is 
very  high.  But  that  is  only  a  part  of  the  function  of  a  great  li- 
brary. Ladies,  children  and  tourists  have  a  perfect  right  to  read 
story-books.  They  should  be  assisted  to  get  good  story-books.  They 
shall  be.  But  an  aggregation  of  120,000  books,  costing  the  public 
fifty  c^nts  apiece  a  year  should  be  more  than  a  mere  overgrown 
circulating  library.  It  should  be  a  place  where  scholars  can  find  their 
tools  sharp  and  ready ;  where  business  men  can  easily  learn  what  is 
"doing"  in  their  own  lines;  where  those  who  had  looked  on  books 


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IN   THE   LION'S  DEN  181 

as  mere  time-killers  or  excuses  for  a  club  *'paper"  can  be  taught 
the  larger  usefulness  of  theifi.  The  Los  Angeles  library  has  a  mag- 
nificent reputation  for  clerical  efficiency.  For  scholarship  it  has 
none.  There  is  not  in  it  today  a  single  ^'reasoned  catalogue"  of 
any  value  on  any  topic.  There  is  going  to  be.  The  patron  is  going 
to  be  able  to  learn  not  only  what  books  there  are,  but  which  of  than 
are  worthy  and  which  are  worthless. 

The  Lion  has  no  sores  and  no  grudges.  He  went  in  with  his  eyes 
open — understanding  perfectly  that  to  many  people  any  Change  in 
anything  is  a  hardship  and  a  sin ;  he  has  no  disposition  to  blame  any- 
one for  this  or  for  anything  else.  He  has  taken  hold  because  he 
knew  where,  why,  how  and  when  he  could  better  an  important  public 
service.  The  Los  Angeles  Library  has  done  mighty  well  in  a  young, 
growing  city.  Now  city  and  library  are  both  of  stature  to  assume 
the  larger  obligations  of  maturity.  Two  hundred  thousand  popula- 
tion, 120,000  volumes,  $60,000  a  year  library  income  (and  growing 
fast) — these  things  mean  new  duties  rather  different  from  those  that 
obtained  when  half  these  figures  were  true. 

With  the  attempt  to  "do"  politics  by  gender,  and  to  "unionize" 
public  libraries,  the  Lion  has  no  concern.  These  things  take  care 
of  themselves.  The  boycott,  and  the  sympathetic  strike  have  had 
their  hearing  and  their  day.  The  open  shop  has  come  to  stay.  Less 
than  fifty  persons  are  actively  protesting  in  a  population  of  200,000 
and  they  only  because  they  have  been  misinformed.  Presently  even 
these  fifty  will  be  sorry  to  have  advertised  this  public  library  as  "in 
politics"  and  in  a  bad  way.  Nothing  could  be  more  false  or  foolish. 
No  person  now  extant  can  give  a  reasonable  explanation  of  the  cry 
of  "politics."  Not  one  now  imminent  knows  the  politics  of  the 
present  librarian — nor  whether  he  has  any.  The  only  "politics" 
anywhere  in  the  case  have  been  done  in  the  attempt  to  maintain 
that  any  public  library  of  any  size  is  the  proper  Spoils  of  the  Wo- 
man Party.  And  Los  Angeles  is  about  the  last  stand  of  that  theory. 
The  rest  of  the  United  States  already  know  better.  As  a  matter 
of  fact,  fatherhood  and  motherhood  are  the  only  inalienable  offices  of 
importance  that  depend  upon  the  cleverest  of  God's  accidents.  Every 
other  responsibility  of  size  in  this  world  depends  solely  on  the  way 
the  individual  discharges  it. 

In  undertaking  this  new  public  duty,  the  Lion  has  no  apologies  to 
make — nor  disposition  to  hasten  the  apologies  which  already  come 
from  the  other  side.  He  is  going  to  do  his  duty  as  he  sees  it,  no 
matter  what  anyone  else  does.  He  isn't  a  "trained  librarian" — and 
is  glad.  There  are  about  fifty  already  in  the  library.  That  ought  to 
be  enough.  He  is  going  in  to  be  not  clerk  but  manager.  His  good 
friend,  Paul  Morton,  is  not  a  "trained  brakeman,"  but  was  chief 
manager  of  the  biggest  railroad  system  on  earth;  nor  a  "trained 
sailor,"  but  was  Secretary  of  the  Navy;  nor  a  life-insurance  agent 
— but  is  now  chosen  to  untangle  the  affairs  of  one  of  the  great  in- 
surance companies.  All  these  systems  had  their  clerks;  they  looked 
also  for  a  head! 

Sex  is  a  privilege,  not  a  qualification.  But  since  it  has  been  made 
the  issue,  the  dispassionate  statistics  are  worth  remembering. 

No  other  public  business  of  $60,000  a  year  in  California  is  ad- 
ministered by  a  woman,  nor  is  expected  to  be.     Only  one  public 


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182  OUT    WEST 

library  in  the  United  States  of  this  size  and  in  a  population  of  this 
size,  has  a  woman  librarian. 

There  are  only  twenty-two  public  libraries  in  America  of  over 
75,000  volumes  each — or  three-fourths  as  large  as  this.  In  nineteen 
of  them  the  librarian  is  a  man ;  in  three  the  librarian  is  a  woman. 

There  are  only  forty  public  libraries  of  over  50,000  volumes  each 
— or  five-twelfths  the  size  of  this.  Thirty-two  are  managed  by 
men ;  eight  by  women. 

There  are  in  the  United  States  twenty  cities  as  large  as  Los  An- 
geles, or  larger.  In  nineteen  the  librarian  is  a  man;  in  one  the  li- 
brarian is  a  woman. 

There  are  thirty-eight  cities  in  the  United  States  of  as  much  as 
half  the  population  of  Los  Angeles.  In  thirty-three  of  them  the  pub- 
lic librarian  is  a  man ;  in  five  "he"  is  a  woman. 

There  are  seventy-eight  cities  in  the  United  States  of  as  much 
as  one-quarter  the  population  of  Los  Angeles.  In  sixty-two  of  them 
the  public  librarian  is  a  man. 

The  only  public  library  in  America  of  this  category  which  today 
has  a  woman  librarian  is  Minneapolis.  Every  other  city  of  this 
class  had  made  the  change  sooner.  The  only  other  cities  in  the 
Union  of  over  100,000  population  where  the  old  order  still  persists 
are  Jersey  City  with  75,000  volumes ;  Kansas  City  with  61,800  vol- 
umes; St.  Paul  with  54,550  volumes;  Indianapolis  with  92,454  vol- 
umes; Portland,  Me.,  with  50,519  volumes;  Newton,  Mass.,  with 
61,423  volumes — an  average  of  about  half  the  size  of  the  Los  An- 
geles library. 

In  the  cities  of  5,000  to  30,000  population,  and  of  5,000  to  30,000 
volumes,  there  are  about  as  many  women  as  men  librarians. 

Many  of  the  leading  libraries  of  the  United  States  are  not  munici- 
pal— with  two  exceptions  the  leaders  are  not.  These  include  such 
institutions  as  the  Library  of  Congress,  of  Harvard  University,  the 
Carter-Brown  of  Providence,  the  Newberry  and  the  Crerar  of  Chi- 
cago, the  Lenox  of  New  York,  the  Wisconsin  Historical  Society  at 
Madison,  and  so  on-  Not  one  library  of  this  class  in  the  United 
States  has  a  woman  for  librarian.  The  State  libraries  are  also  in 
charge  of  men,  except  the  State  Library  of  Michigan. 

So  are  all  important  government  libraries — like  the  Smithsonian, 
the  Geodetic  Survey,  the  Geological  Survey,  etc.  Tables  elsewhere 
give  the  details. 

On  the  other  hand,  in  many  of  these  libraries — in  most  of  the 
public  ones — the  "force"  is  overwhelmingly  of  women.  It  is  so  and 
should  be  so.  Within  their  experience,  women  are  the  better  li- 
brary workers.  Every  manly  man  in  or  out  of  libraries  will  be  glad 
when  a  woman  graduates  to  be  librarian  of  a  library  of  the  first  class, 
or  president  of  the  American  Library  Association.  And  one  will 
when  her  time  comes.  It  isn't  that  women  Cannot,  but  that  they 
Haven't  as  Yet. 

The  long  and  short  of  it  is  that  the  new  librarian  is  going  to 
maintain  unimpaired — and  maybe  to  joggle  a  bit — every  good  qual- 
ity the  Los  Angeles  Public  Library  now  has ;  and  to  add  some  things 
quite  as  important  which  it  has  not.  If  he  cannot,  he  will  be  first 
to  find  it  out  and  to  make  voluntary  room  for  someone  who  can. 
This  is  a  good  public  library;  but  it  can  be  made  better.  It  is  in- 
tended to  be.  The  city  could  not  stand  still  if  it  tried.  Neither  will 
—its  library.  Chas.  F.  Lummis 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


Redwoods  of  California. 

NATIONAL  KXBCUrnm  COMMITTBX.  LOS  ANGBLBS  COUNCIL. 

Dftvfd  Suit  Jordan.  Presfdent  Stanford  University  Prbst..  Rt.  Rev.  J.  H.  Johnson 
Geo.  Bird  Grinnell.  Ed.  "Forest  and  Stream."  N.  Y.  BXBCUTIVB  COMMITTBB 

CbM.  Casaat  Davto.  Lo«  Angeles  Wayland  H  Smith  (Sec.  of  the  Council) 

C.  Halt  Menlam,  Chief  Bfofoelcal  Survey.  Washington  Miss  Cora  Foy 

D.  M.  Riofdan.  Los  Angeles  Miss  Mury  B.  Warren 
Richard  Egan.  Caplstraao.  Cal.  Miss  Katherlne  Kurtz.  Secretary 
Chas.  F.  Lammls.  Chairman  Chas.  F.  Lummis.  Chairman 

.,       _  ^  ADVISORY  BOARD. 

Mr*,  rhebe  A.  Hearst.  University  of  Callibrala.  Dr.  T.  MltcheU  Prudden.  Col.  Phys.  and  Surg'ns,  N.  Y. 

Archbishop  Ireland.  St.  Paul.  Bflnn.  aDr.  Geo.  J.  Engelmann.  Boston. 

U.  S.  Senator  Thos.  R.  Bard.  CallfiDmla.  Miss  Alice  C.  Fletcher.  Washington. 

Edward  E.  Ayer.  Newberrv  Library.  Chicago.  F.  W.  Hodge.  Smithsonian  Instttutinn.  Washington. 

Miss  Estella  Red,  SapC  an  Indian  Scheob.  Washington.         Hamlin  GarUnd.  author.  Chicago. 

W.  J.  McGee.  Bureau  of  Ethnology.  Mrs.  F.  N  Doubleday.  New  York. 

P.  W.  Putnam.  Peabody  Museum.  Harvard  College.  Dr.  Washington  Matthews.  Waslungtun. 

Stewart  Culln.  Brooklvn  Inst.  Hon.  A.  K.  Smiley,  (Mohonk).  Redlands.  Cal. 

Gao.  A.  Dofscy.  Field  Columbian  Museum.  Chicago.  Ge<xge  Kennan.  Washington. 

Tiaamrer,  W.  C.  Pattenon.  Pr«s.  Los  Angeles  Natl  Bk. 

LiFB  Mbmbbrs. 
AsaHa  B.  HoUaaback.  JoMphlna  W.  Drexd.  Thos.  Scattargood.  Miss  Mira  Hershey.  Mrs.  D.  A.  Senter.  Herbert  B, 
Huntington.  Miss  Antoinette  E.  Gazxam.  J.  M.  C.  Marble.  Joieph  Fels.  Mrs.  Mary  Pels. 

fASSIUS  M.  CARTER,  Esq.,  District  Attorney  of  San 
Diego  County,  has  been  investigating  the  matter  (men- 
tioned in  the  last  number)  of  what  appeared  an  illegal 
and  absurd  collection  of  poll  tax  from  some  of  the  Campo  Mis- 
sion Indians,  whose  destitution  Southern  California  has  been  for 
years  attempting  to  relieve.  It  is  pleasant  to  make  public  the 
explanation  which  puts  the  matter  into  much  more  creditable 
light.  Mr.  Carter's  letter  is  self-explanatory,  and  is  given  in 
full,  in  justice  to  all  concerned : 

July   i2th,   1905. 
Chas.  F.  Lummis,  Esq., 
Los  Angeles,  Calif. 
My  Dear  Sir:     Mr.  A.  D.  Grigsby,  deputy  assessor  of  this  county,  whom 
I  have  known  for  many  years,  reports  to  me  that  in  the  cases  of  Frank  Saro 
and  Santo  Lopez  he  collected  poll  taxes  of  them  as  the  result  of  their  volun- 
tary action.    It  appears  that  they  were  acting  under  the  advice  of  Mr.  Shell, 
Indian  Agent  at  Mesa  Grande.    He  had  advised  them  to  pay  the  taxes,  as 
they  were  acquiring  land  and  property,  and  by  this  means  their  standing  as 
citizens  in  the  community  would  be  improved.    One  of  these  men  sought  out 
Mr.  Grigsby  and  offered  the  tax.    He  was  informed  that  he  was  not  obliged 
to  pay  taxes,  and  he  gave  the  reasons  just  stated  for  his  action.    He  also 
said     the  other  man,  a  relative  of  his,  would  do  likewise,  and  afterwards 
brought  to  Mr.  Grigsby  $2.00  with  the  statement  that  it  was  paid  by  his  rela- 
tive after  full  knowledge  of  his  rights  and  that  he  desired  to  secure  a  better 
footing  in  the  community  and  to  discharge  a  part  of  the  burdens  borne  by  it. 
I  have  every  confidence  in  Mr.  Grigsby's  statement. 
With  very  great  regard, 

I  am  yours  truly, 

CAssiub  Carter, 

District  Attorney. 

Miss  Constance  Goddard  Du  Bois,  an  Eastern  writer  of  repute, 
and  a  warm  friend  of  the  Mission  Indians,  among  whom  she  has 
spent  several  summers  in  honest  study,  has  returned  for  another 
brief  sojourn  among  them.  It  was  she  who  first  began  the 
marketing  of  their  baskets  for  these  Indians — a  matter  now 
largely  in  the  hands  of  the  Sequoya  League.     Miss  Du  Bois  is 


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184  OUT    WEST 

a  practical  philanthropist;  and  is,  besides,  a  student  who  is  mak- 
ing substantial  contributions  to  knowledge.  After  her  vacation 
among  the  Indians  she  will  be  one  of  the  speakers  at  the  Con- 
gress of  Anthropologists  in  San  Francisco  in  August. 

The  efforts  of  the  League  to  bring  the  Campo  Indians  back 
to  their  fine  primitive  methods  of  basket-making  are  meeting 
excellent  success.  The  influence  of  the  curio  dealer  and  the  tour- 
ist in  cheapening  this  fine  old  handicraft  is  being  rather  effect- 
ively counteracted.  With  each  consignment  of  baskets  from  the 
five  Campo  reservations — and  the  League  has  undertaken  to 
market  all  the  baskets  they  produce — ^there  is  noticeably  a  gain 
in  workmanship.  The  two  Indian  matrons  in  the  field,  Miss 
Lachappa  and  Miss  Nejo,  are  impressing  upon  the  basket-mak- 
ers the  importance  of  following  the  honest  old  patterns,  designs 
and  colors.  The  finest  basket  ever  made  by  the  Campo  group 
of  Indians  is  now  in  the  possession  of  the  League,  and  is  being 
reserved  for  the  Southwest  Museum.  Its  distinguished  handi- 
work is  found  in  no  other  tribe  in  the  world.  Its  maker  is  a 
woman  now  on  her  death-bed,  and  its  like  will,  no  doubt,  never 
again  be  produced. 

There  are  no  new  developments  yet  as  to  the  long  recognized 
necessity  that  the  government  afford  permanent  relief  to  these 
Indians — by  giving  them  enough  land  so  that  by  working  like 
horses  and  by  strict  economy  they  can  refrain  from  starvation. 
It  is  obvious  that  Southern  California  will  have  to  tide  these 
suffering  people  through  another  winter,  as  it  did  last  year ;  but 
there  is  every  reason  to  remember  that  the  permanent  remedy 
lies  with  the  government — and  to  insist  that  the  government 
shall  do  its  simple  duty. 

A  very  vital  need  of  these  ill-treated  first  Californians  is  some 
medical  assistance.  The  government  is  paying,  in  many  locali- 
ties, reasonable  salaries  to  doctors  to  assist  Indian  tribes  no  more 
deserving.  The  Campo  Indians  are  in  particular  need  of  this 
assistance.  For  various  reasons — chiefly,  it  is  probable,  their 
lack  of  proper  food — there  is  an  extraordinary  mortality  among 
the  women.  For  most  of  the  year  these  Indians  have  nothing 
to  eat  but  acorns,  the  astringent  qualities  of  which  are  especially 
unkind  to  women.  There  are  good  doctors  not  remote  from 
these  reservations  who  could,  doubtless,  be  retained  for  a  modest 
salary  to  assist  these  Indians ;  and  it  seems  a  very  simple  human 
duty  on  the  part  of  the  government  to  make  this  provision. 

"A  Friend" — who  is  an  important  official  in  the  Philippines — 
sends  $20  for  the  benefit  of  Miss  Rosalia  Nejo,  the  brave  and 
competent  young  Indian  woman  whom  the  League  is  helping  to 
support  as  an  assistant  matron  at  Campo. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $1,311.00. 

Funds  for  the  Work. 

New  contributions — David  E.  Harbone,  Sanger,  Gal.,  $10.00. 

$2.00  (membership) — Mrs.  Eli  Whitney  Blake,  A.  E.  Sexton,  Henry  C 
Dillon,  Geo.  S.  Patton,  Julian  Trogoniz,  Rev.  Juan  Caballeria,  Mrs.  C.  M. 
Severance,  Los  Angeles;  Mrs.  C.  F.  Dillingham.  Mrs.  E.  G.  Slade,  Miss 
Dreer,  Mrs.  Wm.  Edgar,  Pasadena;  Eugene  H.  Lahee,  Covina;  J.  B.  French. 
Pomona;  Edward  E.  Ayer  J.  C  Vaughan,  Col.  A.  H.  Sellers,  Chicago; 
Hon.  Y.  Sepulveda,  City  of  Mexico ;  Sol.  Bibo,  Mrs.  Sol.  Bibo,  San  Francisco. 

RzuEF  Fund. 
Previously  acknowledged,  $1,286.00. 

New  contributions:    Hon.   Y.   Sepulveda,   City  of  Mexico,  $3.00;   Mrs. 
Elizabeth  Abascal,  $2.00;  Miss  Mary  Abascal,  $2.00,  Los  Angeles. 


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185 


FOXTKDBD  1895  OFFICBRS  DIBBCTORS 

President,  Chas.  P.  Lnmrnis.  J.  G.  Moesiii. 

Vice-President,  Margaret  Collier  Graham.  Henry  W.  O^Melveny. 

Secretary,  Arthur  B.  Benton,  114  N.  Spring  St.  Snmner  P.  Hant. 

Treasurer.  J.  G.  Mossin,  California  Bank.  Arthur  B.  Benton. 

Correspondinff  Secretary,  Mrs.  M.  E.  Stilson,  Margaret  Collier  Graham. 

812  Kensington  Road.  Chas.  P.  Lnmmis. 
Chairman  Membership  Committee,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Mossin,  1033  Santee  St. 

Honorary  Ldfe  Members:     R.  £gan.  Tessa  L.  Kelso. 

Life  Members:  Jas.  R  Lankershim,  J.  Downey  Harvey,  Bdward  B. 
Ayer.*John  F.  Francis,  Mrs.  John  F.  Francis,  Mrs.  Alfred  Solano,  liarsartt 
Collier  Graham,  Miss  Collier,  •Andrew  McNally,  Rt  Rey.  Qeo.  Mjontgomery, 
Miss  M.  F.  Wills,  B.  F.  Porter.  Prof.  Chas.  C.  Bragdon,  Mrs.  Jas.  W.  Scott, 
Mrs.  Phebe  A.  Hearst.  Miss  Annie  D.  Apperson,  Miss  Agnes  Lane,  Mrs.  M. 
W.  Klncaid,  Col.  H.  G.  Otis,  H.  Jevne,  J.  R.  Newberry,  Br.  W.  Jarris  Bar- 
low, Marion  Brooks  Barlow,  Gtoo.  W.  Marston.  Chas.  L.  Hutchinson,  U.  8. 
Grant,  Jr.,  Isabel  M.  R.  Severance.  Mrs.  Louisa  C.  Bacon.  Miss  Susan  Baoon, 
Miss  Mira  Hershey,  Jeremiah  Ahem,  William  BfarshaU  Garland.  Geo.  L. 
Fleits.  Miss  Josephine  W.  Drexel,  Mrs.  Sarah  M.  Utt,  Miss  AniU  Utt,  Bmily 
Rimyon  Earl,  D.  M.  Riordan.  Frank  J.  Sullivan,  Alice  Phelan  Sullivan,  John 
Jewett  Garland.  Alfred  Solano.  P.  Campbell  Hoyle.  Amelia  P.  Hollenbaok, 
D.  Freeman,  H.  T.  Lee,  Samuel  KIrkland  Lothrop,  Miss  Elizabeth  W.  John- 
son. Miss  Mary  Louise  Phelan,  Mrs.  Eleanor  T.  Martin,  Frank  A.  Miller, 
Mrs.  C.  F.  A.  Johnson,  W.  C.  Patterson,  Josephine  Molr  Lee,  E.  P.  Ripley, 
O.  S.  A.   Sprague,  Waller  S.  Martin. 

>^|  ITHIN  a  few  months  the  Landmarks  Club  will  have 
\^l  rounded  out  ten  years  of  active  usefulness.  It  was 
founded  in  a  then  indifferent  community  that  did  not 
realize  either  the  artistic  or  the  money  value  of  the  historic  mon- 
uments it  possessed,  or  the  rapidity  with  which  they  were  going 
to  ruin. 

In  this  decade  the  Club  has  done  much  to  educate  public  senti- 
ment. It  was  one  of  the  first  organizations  of  its  kind  in  the 
United  States ;  and  has  been,  in  its  kind,  probably  the  most  suc- 
cessful. It  has  issued  a  large  amount  of  "literature,"  calling 
attention  to  the  importance  of  the  work  to  be  done.  It  has 
broadcasted  far  more  than  100,000  printed  appeals  to  the  public, 
besides  thousands  of  personal  letters.  It  has  interested  thought- 
ful people  in  every  civilized  country  in  the  world,  and  its  mem- 
bership is  made  up  of  people  from  every  land  where  English  is 
spoken,  even  in  colonies.  And  it  has  effectively  practised  what 
it  preached.  It  has  raised  by  subscription  more  than  $7600,  and 
has  applied  nearly  all  this  sum,  economically  and  effectively,  in 
repairing  and  protecting  and  safe-guarding  the  principal  build- 
ings of  four  of  the  Southern  California  missions.  It  has  man- 
aged to  get  about  $12,000  worth  of  work  done  for  this  money — 
well  done  mechanically,  and  well  done  from  the  historic  and  art- 
istic point  of  view.     It  has  had  many  activities  besides  preserv- 

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186  OUT    WEST 

ing  these  missions ;  but  of  course  its  work  on  these  historic  and 
noble  structures  is  its  chief  claim  to  remembrance.  If  the  club 
had  not  begun  its  work  when  it  did,  and  as  it  did,  these  build- 
ings would  be  today  mere  mounds  of  adobe.  As  it  is,  the  build- 
ings it  has  cared  for  will  last  about  as  they  are  for  another  cen- 
tury. 

The  work,  however,  is  only  begun.  Its  magnitude  may  be 
guessed  from  the  fact  that  a  single  one  of  these  churches  could 
not  be  rebuilt  today  for  $100,000  cash,  and  that  the  church  was 
but  a  small  part  of  the  great  communal  establishment  which  was 
one  of  the  first  outposts  of  civilization  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
There  are  a  great  many  other  buildings  to  be  preserved  from  the 
elements;  and  the  club  will  continue  its  work. 

It  is  seriously  intended  that  its  tenth  year  shall  be  the  best 
and  most  effective  year  of  the  club's  activities.  Besides  the 
steady,  patient  routine  of  preservation,  a  new  and  important 
opportunity  and  duty  is  now  offered  to  the  club.  Particulars 
will  be  published  in  due  time. 

A  vigorous  campaign  is  now  making  for  new  memberships  and 
a  renewal  of  old  ones,  and  the  public  response  is  thus  far  gener- 
ous. Six  new  life  memberships  within  a  month  surpasses  the 
club's  own  record. 

There  are  no  bars  to  membership.  The  only  requisite  is  that 
Americans  who  care  for  the  preservation  of  what  is  historic 
and  artistic  in  California  should  subscribe  the  membership  fees, 
which  are  $1  annually  or  $25  for  life  membership. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $7,651.18. 

New  contributions — Mrs.  C.  F.  A.  Johnson,  Long  Beach,  Gal.,  $25.00  (life 
membership)  ;  W.  C.  Patterson,  Prest  Los  Angeles  National  Bank,  $25.00 
(life  membership)  ;  Josephine  Moir  Lee,  Los  Angeles,  $25.00  (life  member- 
ship) ;  E.  P.  Ripley,  Prest.  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.,  Chicago,  $25.00  (life  mem- 
bership) ;  O.  S.  A.  Sprague,  Pasadena,  $25.00  (life  membership) ;  Waller 
S.  Martin,  San  Francisco,  $25.00  (life  membership). 

J.  W.  Hudson^  Puente,  (^al,  $10.00;  Kaspare  Cohn,  $5.00;  John  B.  Miller, 
$5.00;  A.  G.  Wells,  $5.00,  Los  Angeles;  Clara  L.  Dows,  Pasadena,  $5.00; 
Hon.  T.  R.  Bard,  Hueneme,  Cal.,  $3.00;  M.  J.  Riordan,  Flagstaff,  A.  T.,  $5.00; 
Tracy  R.  Kelley,  Lowell  High  School,  San  Francisco,  $2.00;  Thos  E.  Ellis, 
M.  D.,  Elsinore,  (3al.,  $500;  Katharine  Hooker,  Los  Angeles,  $10.00. 

$1.00  each  (membership) — Prof.  Wm.  H.  Housh,  High  School,  Mrs.  Wm. 
H.  Housh.  W.  E.  Dunn,  Silas  Holman,  Mrs.  Silas  Holman,  W.  D.  Wool  wine, 
Wayland  H.  Smith,  J.  W.  A.  Off,  M.  M.  Potter  (Van  Nuys  Hotel),  A.  H. 
Busch,  Wesley  Clark,  Granville  MacGowan,  M.  D.,  Mrs,  Granville  Mac- 
Gowan,  R.  N.  Bulla,  Miss  A.  Amelia  Smead,  Mrs.  Jennie  S.  Pierce,  Mrs. 
E.  G.  Smead,  Gertrude  B.  Wells,  Mrs.  Owen  McAleer,  Los  Angeles;  David 
Starr  Jordan,  Stanford  University;  Rev.  P.  J.  Grogan,  Ventura,  Cal.;  John 
G.  North,  Riverside,  Cal.;  Mrs.  Edith  Alden  Daniels,  Monrovia;  J.  B. 
French,  Pomona,  Cal. ;  John  P.  Fisk,  Redlands,  Cal. ;  Count  Bozenta,  Madame 
Modjeska,  El  Toro,  (5al. ;  Mrs.  Cenobia  de  Moreno,  Francis  M.  Moreno, 
Pala,  Cal.;  Prof.  Geo.  E.  Hale,  Solar  Observatory  office,  Hiram  W.  Wads- 
worth,  Mrs.  Hiram  W.  Wadsworth,  Pasadena;  Zoeth  S.  Eldredge,  Sol.  Bibo, 
San  Francisco ;  Mary  D.  Biddle,  Montrose,  Pa. ;  G.  M.  Lane,  Boston,  Mass. ; 
H.  S.  Richardson,  Concord,  Mass.;  Mr.  Fleming,  Detroit,  Mich.;  Anna  L. 
Meeker  Julia  E.  Meeker,  Mrs.  J.  E.  Meeker,  Benj.  Blossom,  Pasadena;  Mrs. 
A  B.  Storey,  Mr.  Storey,  Altadena ;  Charles  Eliot  Norton,  Cambridge,  Mass. ; 
Beeman  &  Hendee,  Olive  Percival,  Los  Angeles;  Prof.  Wm.  H.  Holmes, 
Bureau  of  Ethnology,  Washington.  . 

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187 
THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY 

Archxolo^ical  Institute  of  America. 

Prtsidtni,  J.  S.  Slauson. 
Vice-Presidents:  Gen.  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  Bditor  I<oa  Angeles  Times;  Fredk.  H.  Rindg-e, 
Prest.  ConserratiTe  Life  Ins.  Co.;  Geo.  P.  Bovard,  Prest.  U.  ef  S.  C;  Dr.  Norman  Bridge. 
Secretary*  Chas.  F.  Lnmmis.  Bxecntive  Committee,  Major  E.  W.  Jones, 

T«a«.r.r.  W.  C.  Patterson.  Prest.  Lo.  A.-  "'»"  ''f'^  fJ^J'  ^"'-  \-  ^-  '"••'•J' 

..le.  National  B..k.  f"*^  City  Schools.  Lo.  Anireles;     F. 

Lnnffren,  Chas.  F.  Lnmmis,  Dr.  F.  M. 
Recorder  and  Curator,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer.  Palmer,  Theodore  B.  Comstock. 

▲DvisoRT  couxfcn.: 
Tke  foregoing  officers  and 
H.  W.  O'Melreny.  I#os  Angeles.  Geo.  W.  Marston,  San  DieffO. 

I«oal8  A.  Dreyfns,  Santa  Barbara.  John  G.  North,  Riverside. 

Chas.  Cassatt  Daris,  Los  Angeles.  £.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel. 

Charles  Amadon  Moody,  Los  Angeles.  Rt.  Rev.  Thos.  J.  Conaty,  Los  Angeles. 

Walter  R.  Bacon,  Los  Angeles.  Rt.  Rev.  Joseph  H.  Johnson,      " 

Dr.  J.  H.  McBride,  Pasadena.  Dr.  John  T.  Martindale,  ** 

^Honorary  Lirit  Mbmbbks  :  Hon.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Washington  ;  Chas.  Eliot 
Norton,  LL.  D.,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

Life  Members:  Prof.  C.  C.  Brandon,  Pres.  Lasell  Seminary,  Anbnrndale,  Mass.;  Rev. 
Jnan  Caballerla,  Plaza  Church,  Los  Ang-eles.  Cal.;  Chas.  Deering,  2645  Sheridan  Road, 
Evanston,  111.;  Mrs.  Eva  S.  F^nyes,  251  S.  Orange  Grove  Ave.,  Pasadena,  Cal.;  Miss  Mira 
Hershey,  350  S.  Grand  Ave.,  Los  Ang-eles,  Cal.;  Major  E.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel,  Cal; 
Homer  Lanffhlln,  Langhlin  Bldff.,  Los  Angeles.  Cal.;  Los  Angeles  State  Normal  School, 
Los  Angeles,  Cal.  (Gift  of  Senior  A.  CUss,  1904);  E.  P.  Ripley,  Pres.  A.  T.  A  S.  F.  R.  R., 
Chicago,  111.;  St.  Vincent's  College,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  Santa  Clara  College,  Santa  Clara, 
Cal.;  James  Slanson,  Bradbury  Bldff.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  O.  S.  A.  Spraffue,  Pasadena 
Cal.;  J.  Downey  Harvey,  San  Francisco,  Cal.;  John  A.  McCall,  Prest.  N.  Y.  Life  Ins.  Co.; 
Mrs.  Eleanor  Martin,  San  Francisco;  Edwin  T.  Earl,  Los  Angeles;  Wm.  Keith,  San 
Francisco;  Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Hart,  Los  Angeles;  W.  P.  Wesselhoeft,  M.  D.,  Boston  ; 
Dwight  Whiting,  Miss  A.  Amelia  Smead,  Los  Angeles. 

KBPSBSBNTATIVBS  ZM  TBB  COUNCIL  OF  THB  ▲.  I.  ▲. 

Theo.  B.  Comstock  F.  M.  Palmer  F.  H.  Rindge 

Mary  E.  Foy  Chas.  F.  Lnmmis  C.  E.  Rumsey 

J.  S.  Slanson,  ex-officio  Mrs.  W.  H.  Honsh 

*By  their  consent,  and  subscribed  by  the  Southwest  Society. 


^i|HE  extraordinary  growth  of  the  Southwest  Society  continues 
^J^  without  visible  abatement,  even  in  the  summer  months  and 
toward  the  close  of  the  Society  year.  The  membership  is 
now  309,  which  is  a  gain  in  five  months  of  more  than  a  third  as 
many  members  as  the  twenty-five-year-old  Boston  Society  has  in  all. 
March  i,  1905,  the  Southwest  membership  was  160 — itself  an  un- 
precedented record  for  fifteen  months.  But  since  that  time,  the 
growth  has  been  nearly  three  times  as  fast.  These  comparisons  are 
made  in  no  invidious  spirit.  Such  generous  competition  should  be 
good  for  the  whole  Institute,  and  can  do  no  harm  to  the  youngest 
society,  whose  unparalleled  record  is  the  admiration  of  all  its  eld- 
ers. The  Southwest  Society  has  been  officially  requested  to  draw 
up,  for  the  benefit  of  the  whole  Institute,  its  "recipe  for  success." 
The  national  officers  feel  that  there  must  be  some  lesson,  valuable 
to  all  the  other  fourteen  societies,  in  the  progress  of  this  new  affilia- 
tion, which  in  eighteen  months  has  utterly  outstripped  them  all. 

There  is  no  "secret"  about  it.    The  simple  explanation  is  strict 
business  methods,  a  definite,  practical,  and  important  aim,  and  the 


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188  OUT    WEST 

general  spirit  of  a  community  which,  of  course,  Eastern  societies 
cannot  very  well  command  unless  they  move  their  clients  to  the 
Pacific  Coast. 

The  initial  explorations  of  the  Southwest  Society  have  been  com- 
pleted in  the  vicinity  of  Redondo,  California.  They  were  under 
the  direction  of  the  curator,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer,  and  yielded  an 
extraordinarily  rich  and  important  harvest  of  articles  valuable  alike 
to  the  scientific  world  and  to  the  Southwest  Museum  in  which  they 
will  have  place*  The  Society's  second  archaeological  expedition 
will  be  in  the  field  in  Arizona  by  the  time  these  lines  are  read,  and 
is  expected  to  yield  even  more  important  results.  Curator  Palmer 
is  in  charge  of  the  expedition,  for  which  the  Institute  has  made  the 
largest  appropriation  ever  made  for  an  American  enterprise. 

The  special  fund  to  make  President  Roosevelt  and  Prof.  Chas. 
Eliot  Norton  (founder  of  the  Institute)  honorary  life  members  of 
the  Southwest  Society  has  made  an  encouraging  start.  The  mem- 
bers seem  to  feel  that  this  graceful  act  is  worthy  to  be  performed. 
Eighty-six  dollars  has  already  been  subscribed.  As  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  Californians  said  in  remitting  his  dues,  **I  never 
before  got  into  so  good  company  so  cheaply."  Any  members  who 
may  have  forgotten  the  letter  of  suggestion,  but  wish  to  contribute 
to  this  object,  should  send  in,  as  soon  as  convenient,  at  least  their 
statement  of  what  may  be  expected  from  them  later.  The  following 
have  already  subscribed : 

E.  P.  Ripley,  Chicago,  $10.00;  O.  S.  A.  Sprague,  Pasadena,  $10.00;  C.  W. 
Smith,  Pasadena,  $5.00;  J.  O.  Kocpfli,  $5.00;  Harry  R.  Callender,  $5.00,  Los 
Angeles;  Wm.  H.  Burnham,  Orange,  $500;  D.  Freeman,  Inglewood,  $5.00; 
Ella  P.  Hubbard,  Azusa,  $5.00;  G.  W.  Marston,  San  Diego,  $3.00. 

$2.00  each:— "A  Friend,"  W.  C.  Patterson,  Chas.  F.  Lummis.  Paran  F. 
Rice,  Dr.  J.  A.  Monk,  Hon.  H.  C.  Dillon,  Los  Angeles ;  Eva  S.  Fenyes,  Pasa- 
dena; Rt.  Rev.  Geo.  Montgomery,  San  Francisco;  Hon.Jarrett  T.  Richards, 
Santa  Barbara;  Willard  A,  Nichols,  Redlands;  Hon.  Y.  Sepulveda,  City  of 
Mexico;  T.  A.  Riordan,  Flagstaff;  Remy  J.  Vesque,  TerreHaute,  Ind. 

$1.00  each :— Hon.  R.  N.  Bulla,  J.  E.  Fishburn,  A.  L.  Stetson,  A.  H.  Flem- 
ing, Los  Angeles;  Frank  A.  Miller,  Riverside;  C.  D.  Norton,  Oiicago;  J.  C. 
Nolan,  St  Paul. 

The  deficit  on  the  purchase  of  the  Palmer-Campbell  collection  of 
Southern  California  antiquities  has  been  nearly  wiped  out.  There 
is  still  room,  however,  for  $60  or  $70  on  this  behalf.  The  list  of 
donors,  which  will  be  made  part  of  the  archives,  is  thus  far  as  fol- 
lows: 


♦138  prospect-holes  were  sunk  in  the  ancient  village-site  and  shell  mounds, 
and  three  trenches  were  run.  There  were  found  thirty-three  hammers,  150 
stone  implements  (spear  and  arrow-points,  knives,  drills,  saws,  scrapers,  etc.) 
some  of  which  are  unique;  eight  bone  implements  of  much  importance;  and 
a  large  amount  of  material  illustrating  the  manufacture  of  chipped  stone 
implements. 


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THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A.  I.  A.         189 

A  member  of  the  Southwest  Society,  $105.00;  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  $50,00;  Wm.  H.  Burnham,  $25,00;  F.  H.  Rindge,  $25.00;  James 
Slauson,  $20.00;  Ella  P.  Hubbard,  $20.00;  M.  C.  Healion,  $10.00;  Rt.  Rev. 
Joseph  H.  Johnson,  $10.00;  T.  O.  Koepfli,  $10.00;  Dr.  Norman  Bridge,  $5.00; 
D.  Freeman,  $5.00;  Dr.  W.  Jarvis  Barlow,  $5.00;  Maj.  E.  W.  Jones,  $5.00; 
R.  N.  Bulla,  $5.00;  Geo.  W.  Marston,  $5.00;  Theo.  B.  Comstock,  $5.00; 
C.  W.  Smith,  $5.00;  Clara  B.  Burdette,  $2.00. 

Arthur  Farwell,  the  expert  sent  last  year  by  the  Institute  to 
transcribe  the  folk-songs  the  Southwest  Society  has  recorded,  has 
come  again,  by  the  same  authority,  to  complete  the  important  work 
to  which  he  devoted  four  months  last  summer.  This  means  that 
within  a  few  months  the  first  volume  of  these  songs  will  be  ready  for 
publication.  This  collection — which  it  is  seriously  intended  shall 
be  the  largest  and  the  most  typical  collection  of  folk-songs  ever 
printed — will  be  a  monument  of  which  the  Southwest  Society  may 
well  be  proud.  The  big  volume  will  have  place  in  every  important 
library  and  museum  in  the  world — to  the  enduring  credit  of  the 
Society.  It  is  intended  also  to  make  a  selection  of  say  fifty  of  the 
most  "taking"  songs,  harmonize  them  for  the  piano,  give  them 
metrical  translations,  and  publish  them  as  a  popular  volume.  This 
will  be  a  financial  success,  as  the  larger  and  more  critical  collection 
will  be  a  contribution  to  science.  Fifty  songs  of  such  quality  were 
never  before  added  de  novo  to  the  musical  repertory  of  the  English- 
speaking  and  English-singing  world,  in  any  one  volume.  That  also 
will  be  a  record  worth  the  while  of  the  Southwest  Society  and  of 
the  community  which  backs  its  growth. 

Since  the  July  number,  the  following  new  members  have  been  added  to 
the  roster: 

Life  Members: — 

Dwight  Whiting,  Miss  A.  Amelia  Smead. 

Annual  Members: — 

Ami  V.  Golsh,  Pala,  Cal.  A.  A.  Hubbard. 

A.  J.  Forget,  M.  D.  J.  S.  Torrance. 

Mrs.    E.    K.    Foster,    Pres.    Friday    Mary    S.    Caswell,    Principal    Marl- 
Morning  Club.  borough  School. 

Geo.  W.  Durbrow.  J.  G.  Mossin,  Cashier  American  Na- 

Frank  W.  Burnett.  tional   Bank. 

John  G.  MotL  Hiram   W.   Wadsworth,   Pasadena. 

Mrs.    Hiram   W.   Wadsworth,   Pasa-    Ed.  E.  Ayer,  Chicago, 
dena.  Very  Rev.  P.  Harnett,  V.  G.  P.  A. 

Thos.  E.  Ellis,  M.  D.,  Elsinore,  Cal.    All  of  Los  Angeles,  except  as  other- 

Gco.   H.   Martin,  M.   D.,   San  Fran-       wise  noted. 
Cisco. 


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190 

LIDRARICS   IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 

^^^HE  following  tables  are  compiled  from  the  latest  reports 
Jl  of  the  American  Library  Association  and  from  the  United 
States  census.  They  show  that,  roughly  speaking,  the 
proportion  of  men  librarians  to  women  librarians,  including  all 
important  places,  is  in  regard  both  to  population  and  to  number 
of  volumes  about  ten  to  one.  It  is  only  in  the  small  libraries  that 
the  proportion  begins  to  creep  up  toward  half-and-half. 

PwNaPAL  PuBUC  Ldiraries  in  the  United  States, 
City.                                Population.  No.  Volumes  Librarian. 

New  York  1,447,048           347,202  Jno.  S.  Billings 

Chicago    1,698,575           321,031  Frederick  H.  Hild 

Philadelphia    1,293,697           293,183  Jno.  Thompson 

St.   Louis,   Mo 575,238           170,855  Frederick  M.  Crunden 

Boston,   Mass 560,892           812,264  Horace  G.  Wadlin 

Baltimore,   Md 508,957           211,449  B.  C.  Steiner 

Cleveland,  0 381,768           171,592  Wm.  H.  Brett 

Buffalo,  N.  Y 352,387           239494  Wm.   Ives 

San   Francisco,   Cal 342,782           136,395  Geo.  T.  Clark 

Cincinnati,   0 325,902           251,309  Nathaniel   D.   C.   Hodges 

Pittsburg,  Pa.    321,616           140,507  Edwin  H.  Anderson 

New  Orleans,  La 287,104             54,280  Wm.  Beer 

Detroit,   Mich.    285,704           174,425  Henry  M.  Utley 

Milwaukee,  Wis 285,315           147^36  Geo.  W.  Peckham 

Newark,   N.   J 246,070             78,798  Anderson   H.    Hopkins 

Louisville,  Ky 204,731  not  reported  Jno.  C.  Dana 

Providence,  R.  1 175,597  not  reported  Wm.  E.  Foster 

♦Denver,  Col 133,859            78,000  Chas.  R.  Dudley 

Toledo,   0 131322            49,153  Willis  F.  Sewall 

Columbus,  0 125,560             82,928  Chas.  B.  Galbreath 

Worcester,  Mass 118421            135,762  Samuel  S.  Green 

Syracuse,  N.  Y 108,374             52,855  Ezekiel  W.  Mundy 

New  Haven,  Conn 108,027             60,000  Willis  K.  Stetson 

Paterson,  N.  J 105,171             37,759  Geo.   F.  Winchester 

St.  Joseph,  Mo 102,979             22,180  Purd  B.  Wright 

♦Rochester,  N.  Y 162,608            34,641  Alfred  H.  Collins, 

Reynolds  Lib.   and 
Mrs.  K.  J.  Dowling, 

Central  Lib. 

Lowell,   Mass 94,969             62,618  Frederick  A.  Chase 

Cambridge,  Mass 91,886             60,759  Clarence  W.  Ayer 

Seattle,  Wash 80,671             20,864  Chas,  W.  Smith. 

Reading,   Pa 78,961             11,717  Albert  R.  Durham 

Trenton,  N.  J 73,307             16,281  Adam  Strohm 

Lynn,  Mass 68,513             62,041  Nathan   Clark 

Oakland,  Cal 66,960             31,868  Chas.  S.  Green 

New    Bedford,    Mass...  62,442             77,700  Geo.  H.  Tripp 

Springfield,    Mass 62,059  not  reported  Hiller  C.  Wellman 

Summerville,   Mass 61,643             52,157  Samuel  Walter  Foss 

Peoria.   Ill 66,100             78,91 1  E.  S.  Wilcox 

Savannah,   Ga 54,244  not  reported  Wm.  Harden 


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LIBRARIES  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  191 

PRiNaPAL  Public  Libraries  in  United  States— Continued. 

City.  Population.    Volumes.  Librarian. 

San  Antonio,  Tex 53,32i  not  reported  Benj.  Wyche 

Holyoke,  Mass 45,7 12  not  reported  Frank  G.  Willcox 

Salem,  Mass 35,956  41,994  Gardner  M.  Jones. 

Butte,    Montana 30,470  29,439  J.  R.  Russell 

Alameda,  Cal 16,464  not  reported  Francis  B.  Graves 

Prinopal  Reference  Libraries. 
Institution.  Librarian. 

Library  of  Congress Herbert  Putnam 

Carter-Brown  Library,  Providence Geo.   P.  Winship 

Newberry  Library,  Chicago  John  Vance  Cheney 

Lenox  Library,  New  York Wilberforce  Fames 

Mercantile  Library,  New  York   Wm.  T.  Peoples 

John  Crerar,  Chicago  Wm.  T.  Andrews 

Wisconsin  Historical  Library  Reuben  Gold  Thwaites 

Boston  Athenaeum  Chas.   K,  Bolton 

Smithsonian  Institution Cyrus  Adler 

Mercantile  Library,  St.  Louis Wm.  R.  GiflFord 

Athenaeum  Library,  Providence Jos.  L.  Harrison 

Case  Library,  Cleveland  Chas.  Orr 

Case  Library,  Hartford  Chas.  S.  Thayer 

Grosvenor  Library,  Buffalo  Edward 

U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey Claud  B.  Guittard 

Public  Document  Library,  Washington Francis  A.  Crandall 

U.  S.  Geological  Survey  F.  B.  Weeks 

Principal  College  Libraries. 
Institution.  Librarian. 

Harvard  University  Wm.  C.  Lane 

Yale  University  Addison  Van  Mayne 

Johns  Hopkins  University  Nicholas  Murray 

Columbian  University  James  H.  Canfield 

Princeton  University   Ernest  C.  Richardson 

Cornell  University  Geo.  L.  Burr 

Georgetown  University  Rev.  Henry  J.  Shandellc 

Brown  University   Harry  L.  Koopman 

Wesleyan  University   Wm.  J.  James 

Amherst  College   Wm.  I.  Fletcher 

Bowdoin  College   Geo.  T.  Little 

Dartsmouth  College  Marvin  T.  Bisbee 

Haverford  College  Allen  C.  Thomas 

Rutgers  College  Irving  S.  Upson 

University  of  California  Jos.  C.  Rowell 

University  of  Colorado  Alfred  E.  Whitaker 

University  of  Wisconsin  Walter  M.  Smith 

University  of  Iowa Malcolm  G.  Wyer 

University  of  Nebraska  James  I.  Wyer 

University  of  Texas  Phineas  L.  Winsor 

University  of  Mississippi James  T.  Gerould 

University  of  Maine  Ralph  K.  Jones 

Annapolis   Naval  Academy   Arthur  N.   Brown 

Drew  Theological  Seminary  Samuel  G.  Ayers 

Hanover  Theological  Seminary  Wm.  L.  Ropes 


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J  92 


OUT    WEST 


Principal  State  Libraries. 
State.  Librarian. 

California    J.   L.   Gillis 

New  York   Melvil   Dewey 

Wisconsin Isaac   S.   Bradley 

Iowa  Johnson  Brigham 

New  Jersey    Henry  C.   Buchanan 

Maine  Leonard  D.  Carver 

New  Hampshire Arthur  S.  Chase 

Connecticut   Geo.  S.  Godard 

Pennsylvania  Thos.  L.  Montgomery 

Indiana  Wm.  E.  Henry 

Minnesota E.   A.   Nelson 

Ohio   Chas.   B.   Galbreath 

Vermont   Geo.  W.  King 

District  of  Columbia  Geo.  F.  Bowerman 

Michigan Mrs.  Mary  C.  Spencer 

Only  Important  Libraries  Managed  By  Women. 

Place.                                                                     Population.  Volumes. 

Minneapolis    202,718  122461  . 

Jersey  City,  N.  J 206,433  75.053 

Indianapolis,  Ind 169,164  92454 

Kansas  City,  Mo 163,752  61,800 

St.  Paul,  Minn 163,065  54,550 

Atlanta,  Ga 89,872  19,481 

Omaha,  Neb 102,555  57»864 

Portland,  Me 50,i45  50,5i9 

Dallas,   Tex 42,638  1 1,000 

Lincoln,   Neb 40,169  11,637 

Newton,  Mass 33»587  61,423 

Sioux  City,  la ZZ^"^^  I5»297 

Davenport,   la 35,254  not  reported 

Concord,  N.  H i9,493  not  reported 

Rock  Island,  111 I9,493  not  reported 

Camden,  N.  J.  75,935  6,811 

Superior,   Wis 31,091  14,021 

Montgomery,  Ala 30,346  not  reported 

Joliet,  111 29,353  18428 

Topeka,   Kan 33,6o8  20,993 

Oshkosh,  Wis 28,284  not  reported 

Utica,  N.  Y 56,383  31,666 

Maiden,   Mass 33.664  39,9I3 

Manchester,  N.  H 56,987  47,278 

Bayonne,  N.  J 32,722  1 1,040 

Des  Moines,  la 62,139  30,001 

Pawtucket,  R.  1 49,231  19,763 

Duluth,  Minn 52,969  38,800 

Quincy,   111 36,252  26,950 

Ft.  Wayne,  Ind 45,ii5  1 1,728 

Dayton,  0 85,333  49,873 


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193 
SAN  DIEIGO  OWNS  THE  FUTURE 

By  WILLIAM  E,  SMYTHE 

OME  cities,  like  some  trees,  grow  more  rapidly  than  others, 
but  it  by  no  means  follows  that  the  city  which  grows  most 
rapidly  will  make  the  greatest  mark  in  the  end.  Soft 
woods,  like  willow,  eucalyptus,  and  cottonwood,  attain 
large  proportions  in  a  few  years.  Hard  woods  of  tougher 
fibre,  like  the  maple  and  the  oak,  require  a  longer  period 
to  -reach  maturity,  while  a  far  greater  space  of  time  is 
needed  to  bring  a  giant  sequoia  to  the  full  majesty  of  its 
proportions. 

San  Diego  shared  in  the  romantic  and  disastrous  boom 
of  the  eighties  which  swept  over  Southern  California,  but 
since  the  subsidence  of  that  high  fever  of  speculation  the 
city  has  developed  much  more  slowly  than  some  of  its  neighbors.  There  is  a 
perfectly  good  reason  for  this,  a  reason  obvious  enough  to  anyone  who  makes 
a  study  of  the  situation  and  which  is  by  no  means  inconsistent  with  the  su- 
preme confidence  in  the  ultimate  greatness  of  San  Diego  which  dwells  in  the  * 
heart  of  every  man,  woman  and  child  within  its  borders. 

It  is  simple  truth  to  say  that  San  Diego  has  developed  more  slowly  than 
some  other  cities  not  because  it  lacked  resources,  but  because  of  the  stu- 
pendous character  of  the  economic  factors  with  which  its  destiny  is  bound 
up.  That  is  to  say,  the  natural  problems  by  which  it  is  surrounded  are  so 
large  that  they  could  not  be  solved  by  individual  enterprise.  The  city  has 
necessarily  awaited  the  dawn  of  the  Day  of  Associated  Man — the  dawn  of  a 
new  era  of  national  and  worldwide  unfoldment.  While  San  Diego  shares 
with  Los  Angeles,  Riverside,  Redlands,  Pasadena,  Santa  Barbara,  and  a  score 


THB  CLTPF8  AT  LA  JOLLA— A  FAVORITB  RBSOKT  NBAR  SAN  DIBOO 


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SOME  SAN  DIEGO  HOMES 

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196  OUT     WEST 

of  other  beautiful  Southern  California  communities  the  attractions  which  ap- 
peal to  the  tourist  public  and  to  those  who  seek  a  pleasant  place  in  which  to 
er.joy  the  comfortable  life  after  years  of  activity,  it  belongs,  in  a  peculiar 
sense,  to  other  worlds  which  touch  the  life  of  its  neighbors  but  remotely. 

San  Diego  belongs  to  the  World  of  the  Pacific  because  it  is  a  great  natural 
seaport ;  to  the  World  of  the  Isthmus,  because  it  is  the  nearest  American  port 
on  either  side  of  the  continent  to  the  interoceanic  canal ;  to  the  World  of  the 
.  Jirigable  Desert,  because  it  is  the  nearest  commercial  city  to  the  greatest  body 
of  land  which  will  be  reclaimed  by  national  enterprise.  Now,  it  was  not 
within  the  power  of  any  individual,  nor  of  any  single  community,  to  arouse 
^nd  to  organize  the  social  and  commercial  life  of  the  Pacific,  nor  to  abolish 
the  monopoly  of  transportation  on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  nor  to  master 
the  floods  of  the  Colorado  River  and  people  its  rich  valley  with  a  million 
homes,  nor  even  to  store  the  waters  on  the  Western  Slope  immediately  behind 
the  city  and  develop  its  extraordinary  economic  possibilities.  All  these  things 
waited  for  the  dawn  of  a  new  time,  and  San  Diego  waited,  too.  The  new 
time  has  dawned  at  last  and  the  evolution  of  a  great  city  by  the  shores  of  San 
Diego  Bay  now  goes  forward  with  a  new,  a  stronger,  and  an  irresistible  im- 
pulse.   In  a  word,  San  Diego  is  moving  on  the  tide  of  events. 

The  war  of  the  United  States  with  Spain,  and  the  war  between  Japan  and 
Russia,  together  with  the  commercial  conquest  of  China  by  Europe  and 
America,  made  a  New  Pacific.  San  Diego  is  a  direct  beneficiary  of  these 
events  in  the  Orient,  although  its  profits  are  to  be  reaped  in  the  future. 

The  Isthmus  of  Panama  was  closed  to  traffic  by  the  iron  hand  of  monopoly. 
Only  the  infinitely  more  powerful  hand  of  the  Nation  could  break  the  lock 
and  restore  the  Freedom  of  the  Seas.  This  the  Nation  did  when  it  acquired 
the  interest  of  the  French  Company,  when  it  determined  to  complete  the 
great  waterway,  and  when  it  immediately  opened  the  Panama  Railway  to  all 
shippers  on  equal  terms.  San  Diego  appropriately  celebrated  this  event,  on 
July  12,  1905,  alone  of  American  cities,  because  it  meant  far  more  to  her 
than  to  any  other  place  on  the  map  of  the  world.  San  Diego  is  not  only 
nearer  than  any  other  American  port  to  the  Isthmus,  but  the  shortest  route 
from  Hong  Kong  and  Yokohama  to  Panama  comes  within  two  hundred  miles 
of  San  Diego,  leaving  Honolulu  and  San  Francisco  more  than  four  hundred 
miles  farther  north.  These  unalterable  facts  of  geography  will  make  it  the 
principal  port  of  call  for  the  world  traffic  of  the  future  in  Pacific  waters. 

Simultaneously  with  these  events  the  Government  has  begun  active  con- 
struction of  the  great  irrigation  system  on  the  Colorado  River.  It  is  destined 
to  be  the  only  system  dealing  with  the  waters  of  that  stream,  which  will  Irri- 
gate not  far  from  a  million  acres  of  extraordinary  fertility,  in  Arizona,  Cali- 
fornia and  Mexico.  Private  enterprise  has  made  a  beginning  and  over  one 
himdred  thousand  acres  are  already  producing  crops  in  a  region  which  a  few 
years  ago  was  regarded  as  the  most  hopelessly  sterile  of  any  part  of  North 
America,  but  private  enterprise  was  wholly  unequal  to  the  solution  of  the 
problem  in  the  largest  and  most  scientific  way.  The  same  power  which 
changed  the  map  of  the  Orient,  and  which  is  cutting  the  Isthmus,  is  laying 
the  foundation  for  civilization  in  what  is  to  be  a  modern  and  glorified  Syria 
of  the  Southwest. 

Curiously  enough — for  the  stars  in  their  courses  seem  to  be  fighting  for 
San  Diego — the  week  which  sees  the  beginning  of  government  construction 
on  the  Colorado  also  witnesses  the  entry  of  the  national  engineers  into  the 
beautiful  valleys  of  the  Western  Slope  to  begin  the  serious  investigation  of 
its  irrigation  problem.     The  Secretary  of  the  Interior  promptly  responded  to 


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SAMPLES  OF   SAN   DIEOO  SCENERY 


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198  OUT    WEST 

the  organized  appeal  of  San  Diego  County  for  national  aid  in  the  storage  of 
flood  waters  and  the  pumping  of  underground  supplies. 

The  Nation  had  already  done  much  to  perfect  the  natural  advantages  of 
San  Diego  harbor.  It  can  be  only  a  question  of  a  brief  time  when  it  will 
utilize  the  opportunity  which  awaits  it  to  establish  a  great  naval  station  in 
those  waters. 

These  conditions  practically  assure  the  early  construction  of  a  direct  eastern 
railroad  outlet  from  San  Diego  to  Arizona  and  beyond.  Such  a  road  would 
pay  handsomely  if  it  dealt  only  with  the  enormous  local  traffic  arising  from 
the  reclamation  of  the  Colorado  Valley,  but  it  is  certain  to  become  the  favorite 
transcontinental  route  because  it  will  be  the  shortest  route,  with  the  lowest 
mountain  grades  and  the  most  complete  immunity  from  interruption  by 
winter  storms. 

Other  cities  have  had  their  days  of  prosperity,  but  San  Diego  owns  the 
future.  Never  was  there  such  a  combination  of  events  as  now  conspire  to 
assure  its  growth  to  the  proportions  of  a  truly  great  city.  And  the  founda- 
tion of  its  greatness  will  be  substantial  and  enduring.  This  is  the  time  for 
those  who  can  see  their  opportunities  a  little  before  the  world  sees  them  to 
make  their  investments  and  prepare  to  reap  the  harvest  which  the  Nation  and 
the  world  are  sowing  in  this  fertile  soil.  The  day  of  the  home-seekers  will 
come  a  little  later  when  the  waters  are  ready  to  be  put  upon  the  lands,  but 
the  day  of  the  investor  has  already  arrived. 

The  agricultural  lands  of  San  Diego  County,  both  in  the  delta  of  the  Colo- 
mdo  and  in  the  picturesque  valleys  of  the  Western  Slope,  will  be  densely 
populated.  Farrreaching  systems  of  interurban  electric  railways  will  bring 
the  people  and  their  products  to  the  coast.  The  attractive  and  diversified 
ocean  front  will  be  the  playgrounds  of  a  great  population,  both  in  summer 
and  in  winter.  The  city  itself  will  be  a  metropolis  of  trade  and  the  seat  of 
the  finest  civic  institutions.  The  climate  of  San  Diego  is  the  most  ideal  to 
be  found  in  the  United  States — a  fact  which  has  never  been  disputed. 

These  are  the  reasons  why  San  Diegans  believe  that  theirs  is  the  best  city, 
of  the  best  nation,  of  the  best  continent,  of  all  the  world. 

For  further  information  see  advertising  pages. 


SAN  DIBGO  BAY — RUSS  LUMBER  AND  MCLL  CO.^S  PLANT  IN  FOREGROUND 


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XH«   Lr*nd    of  SunsKln* 


THE  NATION  BACK  OF  US,  THE  WORLD  IN  FRONT. 


Vol.  XXni,    No.  3.  SEPTJEMBER,  S905. 

Copyright  1905.  by  Out  W««t  Magazin*  Co.    All  rights  r«««rv«d. 

LUTHER  BURBANK.   SCIENTIST 

By  IIONORIA  R,  P.   TUOMEY 

N  THE  time  to  come  Luther  Burbank 
will  be  honored  perhaps  above  any 
other  celebrity  of  his  age,  as  the 
premier  creator  of  new  fruits  and 
flowers.  Since  the  beginning  of 
time  no  other  man  ever  did  what  he 
has  done,  and  is  now  doing  daily,  to 
develop  the  myriad  offspring  of  the 
soil.  Actuated  by  an  absorbing  de- 
sire to  give  the  world  a  better  and 
greater  plant  production,  this  gentle 
captain  of  the  vegetable  kingdom 
has  spent  over  thirty  years  in  pa- 
tient, intense,  self-guided  and  self- 
maintained  effort.  With  the  re- 
ticence characteristic  of  the  great 
doer,  he  has  worked  in  silence.  He 
has  borne  the  extremely  heavy  ex- 
penses of  his  innumerable  horticul- 

ONB  OF  THB  NEW  CHESTNUT  TREES,  BEARING  i    •  i       ,  M  1  • 

AT  18  MONTHi  PROM  THE  SEED  tural  tHals  aud  cxpcnments,  until  his 

funds  have  become  so  low  that,  had 
not  the  Carnegie  Institute  come  to  the  rescue  last  year,  he  would 
have    been    compelled    to   sacrifice    much    of    his    experimental 


This  article  was  snbmltted  to  Mr.  Bnrbank  both  in  mannscript  and  in  proof,  and  was  ap- 
proved by  him.  It  may,  therefore,  be  taken  as  expressing-  his  own  view  of  his  work,  so 
far  as  that  can  be  done  by  another.— Bp. 


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202  OUT    WEST 

grounds  and  abandon  many  of  his  most  valuable  and  important 
experiments,  some  on  the  very  verge  of  successful  completion. 
Being  intent  only  on  the  production  of  new  and  improved  forms 
of  plant  life,  he  has  no  time  to  retail  his  creations  to  the  general 
trade,  but,  instead,  sells  each  outright  to  some  florist,  nursery- 
man or  other  tradesman  as  soon  as  it  is  perfected.  Certainly 
he  has  received  for  some  of  his  creations  sums  that  seem  mag- 
nificent until  we  calculate  the  amount  of  time,  skill,  energy  and 
money  that  must  have  been  employed  to  produce  those  wonders ; 
and  consider,  besides,  that  the  purchaser  who  paid  the  startling 
price  has  secured  in  his  purchase  the  nucleus  of  a  small  fortune. 

Mr.  Burbank  is  a  highly  capable  business  man,  as  is  attested 
by  the  fact  that  he  began  a  nursery  business  in  California  with 
absolutely  no  capital,  and  at  the  end  of  ten  years  was  netting 
about  $10,000  annually,  having  established  the  best  nursery  in 
that  part  of  the  state.  Then,  being  provided  with  means  suffi- 
cient to  venture  on  the  extremely  hazardous  and  uncertain  un- 
dertaking of  plant  creation,  he  closed  out  his  nursery.  Had  he 
continued  as  a  nurseryman  only,  he  would  now  be  a  common 
tradesman — and  rich.  Instead,  he  is  the  world-famous  plant 
creator — comparatively  poor.  The  world  is  the  everlasting 
gainer  by  his  choice. 

These  words  of  his  give  us  a  glimpse  of  the  man : 

"A  day  will  come  when  man  shall  offer  his  brother  man  not 
bullets  nor  bayonets,  but  richer  grains,  better  fruits,  fairer 
flowers." 

Is  Luther  Burbank  a  scientist?  He  is  generally  proclaimed 
the  greatest  scientist  of  his  time;  yet,  there  are  some  who  de- 
clare that,  although  he  is  a  wonder-worker  beyond  compare,  he 
is  not  a  scientist.  Even  the  few  academic  scientists  who  assert 
that  he  is  not  as  they,  declare  that  his  knowledge  reaches  into 
spheres  yet  unknown  to  them,  and  that  the  practical  use  he 
makes  of  it  transcends  anything  of  its  kind  known  to  scientists 
of  this  or  any  other  age. 

It  is  also  remarked  that  he  never  attended  college,  nor  re- 
ceived any  academic  training  in  science.  To  that  may  be  said 
that  he  owes  his  salvation  as  an  original  genius  to  this  very  fact. 
Here  is  his  view  of  the  situation  and  of  his  own  attitude : 

"The  chief  work  of  the  botanists  of  yesterday  was  the  study 
and  classification  of  dried,  shriveled  plant  mummies,  whose  souls 
had  fled,  rather  than  the  living,  plastic  forms.  They  thought 
their  classified  species  were  more  fixed  and  unchangeable  than 
anything  in  heaven  or  earth  that  we  can  now  imagine.  We 
have  learned  that  they  are  as  plastic  in  our  hands  as  clay  in  the 


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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  207. 

hands  of  the  potter  or  color  on  the  artist's  canvas,  and  can 
readily  be  molded  into  more  beautiful  forms  and  colors  than  any 
painter  or  sculptor  can  ever  hope  to  bring  forth.  The  changes 
which  can  be  wrought  with  the  most  plastic  forms  are  simply 
marvelous  and  only  those  who  have  seen  this  regeneration 
transpiring  before  their  very  eyes  can  ever  be  fully  convinced." 
Even  as  a  child  Luther  Burbank  heard  the  voice  of  Nature 
calling  to  him.  He  has  been  taught  in  the  school  of  the  great 
out-of-doors,  and  imbibed  a  vast  amount  of  wisdom  in  the  won- 
derful ways  of  nature,  because  he  is  in  perfect  accord  with  the 
elements  about  him.    On  this  point  he  says : 


SANTA  KOSA  HOMB  OF  LUTHER  BUKBANK 


"In  pursuing  the  study  of  any  of  the  universal  and  everlast- 
ing laws  of  Nature,  whether  relating  to  the  life,  growth,  struc- 
ture and  movements  of  a  giant  planet,  the  tiniest  plant,  or  of  the 
psychological  movements  of  the  human  brain,  some  conditions 
are  necessary  before  we  can  become  one  of  Nature's  interpreters 
in  the  creation  of  a  valuable  work  for  the  world.  Preconceived 
notions,  dogmas,  and  all  personal  prejudice  and  bias  must  be 
laid  aside;  listening  patiently,  quietly,  reverently,  to  the  lessons, 
one  by  one,  which  Mother  Nature  has  to  teach,  shedding  light 
on  that  which  was  before  a  mystery,  so  that  all  who  will  may  see 
and  know.  She  conveys  her  truths  only  to  those  who  are  passive 
and  receptive,  accepting  truths  as  suggested,  wherever  they  may 

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204  OUT    WEST 

lead ;  then  we  have  the  whole  universe  in  harmony  with  us.    At 
last  man  has  found  a  solid  foundation  for  science." 

Judging  by  the  things  he  has  accomplished,  it  is  only  Luther 
Burbank  himself  who  has  found  the  true  basis  of  scientific 
achievement. 

Other  matters  of  comment  are  that  he  does  not  proceed  from 
the  established  point  of  view  of  the  college-bred  scientists  in 
prosecuting  his  work;  does  not  employ  the  methods,  tomes,  in- 
struments and  paraphernalia  indispensable  to  the  trained  scien- 
tist; does  not  seem  to  know  how  to  use  the  language  of  science 
as  accepted  by  some  of  the  academicians,  but  instead  employs 
it  with  an  altogether  different  meaning;  keeps  no  notes  or  rec- 
ords of  what  he  does,  or  how  he  proceeds,  or  what  he  uses. 

Luther  Burbank  must  be  recognized  as  a  man  of  great  and 
original  mental  endowments  who  has  wrought  out  his  matchless 
success  through  having  faith  in  his  own  conceptions,  powers  and 
processes.  All  the  world's  best  writings  on  biology  and  kindred 
subjects  are  familiar  reading  to  him,  as  also  is  the  field  of  current 
scientific  literature.  He  is  one  of  the  most  scholarly  of  our 
great  men  and  an  earnest,  diligent  and  open-minded  seeker  after 
truth.  His  deep  respect  for  the  learning  and  opinions  of  others, 
especially  those  of  high  scholastic  attainment,  insures  that  he 
has  kept  and  will  continue  to  keep  himself  thoroughly  con- 
versant with  the  lore  of  the  past  and  the  most  advanced  thought 
of  his  own  time.  But  of  necessity  he  has  found  himself  countless 
times  disproving  many  of  the  theories  and  so-called  laws  of  his 
fellow-biologists,  none  of  them  having  reached  his  plane  of  in- 
vestigation, observation  and  experience  in  this  line. 

No  voice  may  be  raised  to  give  authoritative  utterance  in  either 
confirmation  or  contradiction  of  the  following  expression  of 
Luther  Burbank's,  since  none  are  gifted  to  see  with  his  special 
vision : 

"Science  sees  better  grains,  nuts,  fruits  and  vegetables,  all  in 
new  forms,  sizes,  colors  and  flavors,  with  more  nutrients  and 
less  waste,  and  with  every  injurious  and  poisonous  quality  elim- 
inated, and  with  power  to  resist  sun,  wind,  frost  and  destructive 
fungus  and  insect  pests.  It  sees  better  fruits  without  stones, 
seeds  or  spines,  better  fiber,  coflFee,  tea,  rice,  rubber,  oil,  paper, 
and  timber  trees  and  better  sugar,  starch,  color  and  perfume 
plants.  Every  one  of  these  and  ten  thousand  more  are  within 
the  reach  of  the  most  ordinary  skill  in  plant  breeding." 

Perhaps  "the  most  ordinary  intelligence"  may  some  day 
manipulate  with  his  skill  in  plant  breeding,  but  it  will  not  come 
to  pass  until  he  has  turned  instructor. 

Mr.  Burbank  has  been  for  years  constrained  to  feel  himself 


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LUTHER  BURBANK.  SCIENTIST  205 

a  lone  worker  in  an  almost  unexplored  field.  Until  very  recently 
he  was  ill-understood  even  by  his  immediate  neighbors,  some  of 
whom  used  even  to  ridicule  the  man  who  closed  out  a  fine  nur- 
sery business  and  grew  acres  upon  acres  of  queer  bewildering 
vegetation  which  he  would  clear  off  his  land  and  burn,  only  to 
raise  and  destroy  a  seemingly  similar  crop  the  next  year.  What 
little  the  public  heard  of  him  gave  the  impression  that  the  was 


THB  LEMON  CALLA 


some  sort  of  freak  performer  in  the  horticultural  line,  while  rec- 
ognized authorities  in  horticultural  science  did  not  hesitate  to 
intimate  that  he  probably  was  a  humbug,  a  sensationalist  who 
sought  to  amaze  with  his  absurd  productions. 

This  was  a  painful  epoch  in  the  life  of  a  man,  sensitive,  silent 
under  unmerited  opprobrium,  and  certain  from  the  repeated  and 
perfect  success  of  his  processes  and  ideas  that  he  was  pursuing 
the  one  right  path.    The  world  knows  him  better  now,  and  thou- 


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206  OUT    WEST 

sands  of  interested  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  globe  flock  to 
see  him,  while  volumes  are  being  written  about  him.  Some  of 
the  published  accounts  are  worthy,  sane,  intelligent,  sympathetic. 
Some,  while  kindly,  are  wholly  superficial.  Some  are  flippant 
and  sensational;  some  foolishly  exaggerated,  and  some  are  an 
incoherent  jumble  of  real  and  imaginary  things.  Lastly,  from 
a  few  high  sources  have  come  expressions  that  are  anything  but 
adequate  tributes,  and  in  the  same  measure  fall  short  of  being 
a  credit  to  the  generosity  and  discernment  of  their  learned  au- 
thors. 

There  are  several  good  reasons  why  Mr.  Burbank  and  his 
work  may  be  reported  erroneously  in  the  public  prints.  Chief 
of  these  is,  naturally,  the  difficulty  of  understanding  him  or  the 
matters  that  pertain  to  his  work.  There  is  the  subtle  mystery 
of  his  peculiar  intellectual  faculties,  the  intricate  processes  he 
has  evolved  for  the  work  of  carrying  on  plant  creation,  and  fi- 
nally those  creations  themselves,  which  truly  are  such  marvels  of 
newness,  beauty  and  worth  that  extravagant  praise  of  them  and 
eulogies  of  their  originator  are  not  surprising. 

Mr.  Burbank  has,  for  over  twenty-five  years  past,  kept  notes 
and  records  of  his  work  in  the  greatest  profusion  and  with  per- 
fect exactness.  These  invaluable  records  have  not  yet  been  pub- 
lished, but  the  fact  of  their  existence  is  a  guarantee  to  the  public 
that  it  may  yet  hope  to  read  and  study  the  history  of  the  work  of 
Luther  Burbank  from  his  own  pen.  He  has  written  very  little 
for  the  public,  but  his  few  essays,  prepared  for  various  prominent 
agricultural  and  horticultural  conventions,  are  delightful  read- 
ing. He  has  needed  no  compiled  volumes  for  his  own  reference, 
his  capacious  mind  being  the  best  and  readiest  register.  He  has 
had  no  time  to  prepare  his  data  for  publication,  being,  as  has 
been  said,  bent  only  on  hastening  new  kinds  of  flowers  and  fruits 
into  being.  And  to  revert  again  to  his  years  of  isolation  as  an 
experimenter  without  just  standing,  it  can  readily  be  seen  that 
he  had  little  incentive  to  lay  before  the  world  an  account  of  him- 
self and  his  occupation.  When  the  Burbank  book  appears,  it 
will  undoubtedly  be  of  extreme  interest  to  the  general  public  and 
of  especial  value  to  students  of  horticulture,  biology,  heredity, 
evolution  and  bionomy. 

If,  as  a  somewhat  noted  authority  said  of  late,  Mr.  Burbank 
misapplies  scientific  terms,  and  seems  not  versed  in  the  language 
of  science,  it  is  simply  because  he  has  added  so  much  new  mean- 
ing to  such  terms — has  had  to  broaden  and  deepen  and  extend 
generally  their  significance  to  make  them  even  approximately 
fit  the  use  he  has  for  verbal  expression  in  relation  to  his  work. 
Not  even  the  English  vocabulary,  extensive  though  it  is,  nor  any 


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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  207 

other  vocabulary  in  existence  contains  words  that  can  accurately 
describe  or  name  the  things  he  is  doing  and  creating.  Too 
often  and  for  too  long  has  this  serious  worker  been  published 
a  "wizard."  He  has  not  protested,  but  it  is  none  the  less  true 
that  he  abominates  the  misnomer,  since  it  implies  either 
witchcraft  or  charlatanry  in  him  or  foolish  and  ignorant  con- 
ceptions of  him  on  the  part  of  his  chroniclers.  While  he  was 
Httle  known  and  his  astonishing  achievements  scarce  under- 
stood, there  was  some  excuse  for  applying  to  him  an  epithet 


SHASTA"   DAISIES 


expressing  wonder  and  mystification.  But  since  his  world-wide 
recognition  as  a  great  authority  in  his  chosen  field,  it  is  time 
that  the  mis-naming  cease. 

Mr.  Burbank  says : 

"My  fruits  and  flowers  are  more  than  new  in  the  sense  in 
which  the  word  is  generally  used.  Let  it  not  be  supposed  that 
they  were  born  without  labor.  Not  knowing  the  facts,  people 
often  jump  to  the  conclusion  that  all  new  varieties  are  sum- 
marily produced  by  crossing,  and  with  as  little  ceremony  as  a 
wizard  would  appear  to  do  it  with  his  magic  wand." 

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208  OUT    WEST 

The  commercial  phase  of  Mr.  Burbank's  work  is  the  most 
easily  presented  and  most  readily  perceived.  The  value  of  his 
peerless  Burbank  potato  alone  has,  since  its  introduction  some 
thirty  years  ago,  run  up  above  the  $25,000,000  mark.  And  this 
is  but  a  fair  sample  of  the  returns  yet  to  follow  the  general  dis- 
tribution of  many  succeeding  creations  of  his,  among  which  are 
the  Sugar  prune;  "Burbank,*'  "Climax"  and  "Wickson'*  plums; 
"Primus"  and  "Phenomenal"  berries;  hybrid  walnuts;  plumcot; 
pineapple  quince;  rhubarb;  improved  spineless  cactus,  and  many 
other  novelties,  including  a  large  variety  of  trees,  flowers,  shrubs* 
and  grasses. 

Besides  originating  new  varieties  of  plants,  Mr.  Burbank  im- 
proves old  kinds  with  generous  impartiality.  Has  own  estimate 
of  the  value  of  effort  in  the  line  of  improvement  alone  presents 
some  stupendous  figures: 

"It  would  not  be  difficult  for  a  man  to  breed  a  new  rye,  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  or  rice,  which  would  produce  one  grain  more  to  each 
head,  or  a  corn  which  would  produce  an  extra  kernel  to  each  ear, 
another  potato  to  each  plant,  or  an  apple,  plum,  orange  or  nut 
to  each  tree.  Suppose  this  were  done,  what  would  be  the  result? 
In  the  first  staples  only,  in  this  country  alone,  we  should  have 
annually,  without  eflfort  and  without  cost,  more  than  5,200,00 
extra  bushels  of  corn,  15,000,000  extra  bushels  of  wheat,  20,000,- 
000  extra  bushels  of  oats,  1,500,000  extr'\  bushels  of  barley,  and 
21,000,000  extra  bushels  of  potatoes." 

His  methods  are  exemplifications  of  Darwin's  theories  of  evo- 
lution. He  has  made  countless  successful  experiments  that  are 
the  outcome  of  the  principles  laid  down  in  the  Origin  of  Species; 
and,  again,  his  trials  and  observations  have  disproved  some  of 
the  ideas  advanced  by  other  noted  scientists  who  have  not  at- 
tained his  level  of  investigation  nor  performed  an  infinitesimal 
fraction  of  the  number  of  experiments  that  are  to  his  credit. 

Mr.  Burbank  is  a  most  noteworthy  example  of  original  char- 
acter development,  unaflfected  by  external  influences,  circum- 
stances or  environment.  He  very  likely  would  have  achieved 
his  great  successes  even  had  he  been  isolated  all  his  life  from 
every  sort  of  help  or  suggestion  of  any  other  human  mind,  so 
strong  is  his  natural  bent,  so  large  are  his  special  gifts,  and  so 
energetic,  persistent  and  concentrated  are  his  efforts.  But  so 
far  from  having  his  powers  brought  to  a  focus  by  a  solitary  ex- 
istence, he  has  lived  out  in  the  world's  great  open.  His  exten- 
sive study  of  other  men's  ideas  has  influenced  him  only  so  far 
as  by  actual  experiment  he  has  proved  the  truth  of  those  ideas. 
His  methods  of  plant  breeding  correspond  to  Darwin's  theories ; 
but  he  is  not  in  any  sense  a  mere  disciple  of  Darwin.     He  is  a 

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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  209 

great  fellow-witness,  rather,  to  whom  also,  the  truth  has  been 
made  plain,  whose  power,  intuition,  judgment  and  patience  have 
enabled  him  to  bring  into  being  myriads  of  new  plant  forms  in 
proof  of  his  revelations. 

That  all  plant  nature  has  a  tendency  to  vary  is  the  first  great 
premise  on  which  Mr.  Burbank  proceeds,  and  artificial  selection 
is  the  chief  means  employed  in  every  instance  to  secure  strains 
giving  promise  of  variation  or  betterment.  Crossing  and  hy- 
bridization are  interchangeable  terms,  since  species  are  found 
not  to  be  fixed.  Besides  selection  and  crossing  or  hybridization, 
mutation  may  result  in  the  formation  of  new  types.    By  "cross- 


ONB  OF   THB  BUKBANK    ROSES 


ing"  is  meant  the  mingling  of  strains  within  a  species.  "Hybrid- 
ization" is  the  term  most  often  used  for  the  commingling  of  dif- 
ferent species.  "Mutation''  is  the  pronounced,  sudden,  and  often 
unaccountable  change  that  may  sometimes  occur  in  a  plant. 

Selection  alone  has  brought  about  some  of  Mr.  Burbank*s 
finest  creations,  but  crossing  is  extensively  resorted  to,  that  vari- 
ation may  be  brought  about  more  rapidly. 

Mr.  Burbank's  earliest,  as  also  one  of  his  most  celebrated  tri- 
umphs, the  Burbank  potato,  was  produced  by  selection  alone. 
It  was  in  1873  that  he,  then  a  mere  youth,  but  already  zealously 
interested  in  horticultural  experiments,  planted  a  number  of 
hills  of  Early  Rose  potatoes  in  his  mother's  garden  at  Lunen- 


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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  211 

burg,  Massachusetts.  When  the  vines  were  matured  he  found 
but  one  seed-ball  in  the  entire  patch.  This  precious  globe  of 
promise  he  visited  daily,  watching  it  ripen;  and  was  distressed 
one  morning  to  find  it  missing.  It  had  been  struck  off  its  stalk, 
probably  by  some  scurrying  dog  on  his  nocturnal  chase,  and  its 
young  guardian  searched  diligently  for  it,  finding  it  again,  for 
tunately.  From  one  of  the  twenty-three  tiny  seeds  within  that 
solitary  seed-ball  sprang  the  "Burbank  Seedling,"  and,  figu- 
ratively, germinated  the  fame  and  the  life-purpose  of  Luther 
Burbank. 

However,  selection  alone  is  an  ancient  and  primitive  method 


HYBRID  POPPY  LBAVBS.     900  DISTINCT  VARIETIES  IN   A  PATCH  CONTAINING  1000  PLANTS 

of  producing  better  species  of  plants,  and  also  of  animals,  all  of 
which  were  wild  originally.  It  is  a  means  still  used  primarily 
in  all  experiments  in  plant  creation.  But  more  than  a  century  of 
time  would  be  required  to  make  as  much  progress  by  selection 
only  as  can  be  made  in  ten  years  by  crossing  two  somewhat 
dissimilar  species  or  varieties,  of  course  choosing  the  best  of 
each  successive  family  of  seedlings. 

In  the  process  of  cross-pollination,  the  seed  parents  are  pre- 
pared by  having  about  nine-tenths  of  the  buds  removed  when 
they  begin  to  show  their  bloom  color,  in  order  that  the  buds 
elected  to  remain  may  have  a  better  opportunity  for  free  and 
perfect  development.    Then,  while  the  chosen  buds   arc  still 


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212  OUT    WEST 

closed,  a  sharp  penknife  blade  is  inserted  into  each,  and  all  the 
petals  and  anthers,  and  most  of  the  sepal-cup  are  cut  away. 
The  pistils  alone  are  left  intact,  and  denuded  of  the  attractive 
corolla,  are  immune  from  the  pollen-laden  bees,  and  their  hap- 
hazard and  unintelligent  operations. 

A  quantity  of  anthers,  carefully  gathered  from  the  prepared 
staminate  parent,  are  dried  and  shaken  over  a  watch-crystal  un- 
til the  surface  of  tlie  tiny  receptacle  is  dusted  over  with  the  pre- 
cious powder.  Then  comes  the  act  of  pollination.  Nature  gives 
warning,  in  the  earliest  hum  of  the  bees,  that  her  flowers  are 
ready.  With  skilled  finger-tips  or  a  small  camelVhair  brush, 
enough  pollen  is  conveyed  from  the  watch-crystal  to  the  waiting 
pistils  of  each  seed  parent.  Quickly  fructification  commences  in 
the  ovule. 

The  result  of  crossing  is  to  increase  the  number  of  variations 
among  the  resulting  seedlings.  The  seeds  of  the  newly-crossed 
plant  are  gathered  with  great  care  and  planted  in  due  season, 
producing  a  multitude  of  seedlings  often  of  the  most  strange 
and  diverse  sorts.  There  are  representatives  of  each  parent — of 
both — seemingly  of  neither.  Latent  traits,  inherited  from  re- 
mote ancestors,  are  manifested.  Rows,  acres  of  bewildering 
horticultural  chaos  never  before  known  to  man,  are  produced. 

Now  comes  into  operation  the  supreme  faculty  which  so  dis- 
tinguishes Mr.  Burbank  above  all  other  scientific  investigators — 
the  gift  of  subtle  intuition  which  enables  him  to  determine, 
instantly  and  unfailingly,  the  value  or  worthlessness  of  any 
plant.  To  the  lay  observer,  even  to  the  experienced  eye  of  the 
florist  or  professional  seedsman,  the  individuals  in  the  long  rows 
of  young  seedlings  may  all  look  equally  promising,  unpromising, 
or  inexplicable.  Mr.  Burbank  can  take  a  swift  glance  over 
tnose  tens  of  thousands  of  cross-bred  young  strangers  and  pick 
out  the  few — it  may  be  about  a  dozen,  it  may  be  but  one — pos- 
sessing potentialities. 

This  selecting  the  celebrated  scientist  has  done  for  almost 
a  lifetime.  To  test  his  correctness  of  judgment  he  occasionally 
has  had  some  of  the  rejected  plants  preserved  and  cultivated 
side  by  side  with  the  selected,  and  brought  to  maturity,  and  in 
every  case  they  proved  to  be  failures. 

All  plants  passed  as  worthless  are  destroyed.  The  present 
writer,  who  has  lived  for  years  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Bur- 
bank grounds  at  Sebastopol  has  seen  many  bonfires  yearly, 
consuming  immense  piles  of  discarded  bushes,  flowers  and  plants 
of  many  sorts. 

The  young  seedlings  of  promise  are  brought  to  maturity  and 
passed  upon,  and  if  further  variation  or  improvement  is  desired, 

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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  213 

the  processes  again  recommence — cross-pollination,  seeding, 
lending,  selecting,  maturing,  perhaps  over  and  over  again,  till 
at  length  success  is  achieved.  Sixteen  years'  effort  produced 
the  Sugar  Prune,  the  finest  prune  grown  today  anywhere  in  the 
world.  Nearly  all  of  Mr.  Burbank's  creations  represent  a  very 
large  number  of  experiments  before  the  grand  prize  is  secured. 

Hybridization  is  the  term  most  generally  used  to  express  the 
mingling  of  strains  of  different  species,  and,  as  has  been  said,  is 
done  for  the  same  purpose  as  crossing.  It  is  but  a  longer  step 
in  the  same  direction. 

Mutations  are  forms  that  sometimes  almost  without  apparent 
cause,  appear,  and  that  often,  but  not  always,  remain  fixed.  They 
probably  are  the  result  of  the  sudden  activity  of  latent  traits 


SOME  OF  THE   NEW  DAHLIAS 


brought  out  through  some  disturbance  in  the  forces  of  the  parent 
plant — change  of  soil  or  climate,  crossing,  unusually  good  care, 
superabundance  of  nourishment,  or  some  other  unusual  condi- 
tion. Mr.  Burbank's  experience  with  the  mutation  of  plants  and 
his  opinion  as  to  the  causes  and  results  of  such  sportive  proclivi- 
ties are  of  great  interest  and  value  to  the  world  of  science.  He 
finds  that  the  state  of  mutation  may  be  produced  at  will  by  such 
ordinary  means  as  crossing  or  hybridization,  and  the  changes 
above  referred  to. 

Having  wrought  out  his  processes  after  years  of  intense  labor 
and  study  and  infinitely  patient  trials,  Mr.  Burbank  now  has 
practically  sole  command  of  the  most  advanced  knowledge  of 
plant  nature,  and  can  breed  literally  as  he  wills.     He  created  the 

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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  215 

plumcot,  an  absolutely  new,  most  delicious  and  immeasurably 
valuable  fruit,  from  a  plum  and  apricot  cross. 

He  bred  the  new  English  soft-shell  walnut  ''Santa  Rosa"  with 
at  first  a  shell  so  thin  that  the  birds  could  peck  through  and 
devour  the  meat.  He  then  with  equal  dexterity  bred  back  until 
he  restored  sufficient  thickness  to  the  shell. 

He  imparted  the  Bartlett  pear  flavor,  much  intensified,  to  a 
superb  plum,  named  by  him  the  "Bartlett''  plum. 

From  the  common  white  calla  lily,  he  has  created  the  "Lemon 
calla,"  with  a  spathe  of  richest  lemon  tint  and  large  white  mar- 
bled leaves. 


PART  OF  THE  SBBASTOPOL  BXPBKIMBNT  STATION 


He  has  given  a  delightful  odor  to  the  usually  rank-smelling 
dahha,  verbena  and  marigold. 

He  created  the  "Shasta  daisy*'  from  the  little  ox-eyed  daisy 
of  the  Eastern  States  and  a  tall,  coarse  European  daisy ;  and  now 
he  has  originated  two  magnificent  oflfspring  of  the  Shasta  that 
eclipse  their  famous  parent  in  many  ways.  They  are  the  new 
"Alaska"  and  "Westralia"  daisies,  and  are  destined  to  have  a 
splendid  future. 

He  has  removed  from  the  forbidding  cactus  of  the  desert  not 
only  the  spines,  but  also  the  much  more  dangerous  bristles ;  and 
will  soon  have  perfected  a  friendly  giant  food-plant  that  will 
make  the  waste  places  of  the  earth  yield  abundant  sustenance 
for  man  and  beast.     An  extraordinary  quantity  of  excellent  fruit 

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216  OUT    WEST 

is  now  produced  on  the  many  new  thornless  cacti  in  Mr.  Bur- 
bank's  grounds  at  Santa  Rosa. 

The  California  poppy  is  no  longer  a  "copa  de  oro/'  but  a  ''copa 

de  Colorado;"  for  Luther  Bur- 
bank  has  turned  its  golden  cup  to 
a  lovely  crimson. 

He  has  made  the  gladiolus  to 
grow  its  blossoms  all  round  its 
stalk;  and  the  canna,  amaryllis 
and  dozens  of  other  popular  flow- 
ers to  double  and  treble  the  size 
and  beauty  of  their  blooms,  and 
improve  their  appearance  gener- 
ally. 

He  originated  the  new  **VVinter 

rhubarb"  that  produces  the  finest 

I     quality    of    that    wholesome    and 

*     delectable   vegetable  at  any  and 

'^     every  season. 

g         He  has  produced  the  raspberry- 
5     strawberry,    the   raspberry-black- 
^     berry,  the  very  superior  new  hy- 
;;     brid     'Thenomenal"     berry,     the 
°     "Burbank     preserving     tomato,'' 
I     the  "Pineapple,"  ^-Childs,"  ''Van 
g     Deman"      and      ''Santa      Rosa" 
JJ     quinces,  the  stately  new  clematis, 
S     the  "Opulent"  peach,  the  "Royal" 
5      and    "Paradox"    walnuts,    and    a 
<     long  list  of  other  fruits,  nuts,  and 
3     flowers,  besides  a   great  number 
\     of  shrubs,  trees  and  grasses. 
g         Mr.  Burbank's  work  in  creating 
and   improving  plums   is   deserv- 
ing of  extraordinary   notice   and 
honor.     Over   twenty   years   ago 
he  commenced  by  importing  the 
"Satsuma"  and  many  other  plums 
from  Japan.     He  introduced  the 
"Satsuma"  and  "Burbank"  plums 
in    1887;   the  "Gold,"  "VVickson," 
"Delaware,"     "Juicy,"     "October 
Purple,"    and    "Hale"    plums    in 
1893;   the    "Doris"   in    1894,   the 
"America,"  "Chalco"  and  "Apple" 

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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  217 

plums  in  1898;  the  "Climax,"  "Sultan"  and  "Bartlett"  plums  in 
1899;  the  "First"  and  "Combination"  plums  in  1901,  and  al- 
though he  does  not  now  give  as  much  attention  to  the  improve- 
ment of  the  plum  as  formerly,  he  still  carries  on  extensive  ex- 
periments in  that  line. 

Prune  culture  has  also  yielded  wonderful  results,  that  in  the 
near  future  will  affect  the  prune  industry  of  the  world.  In  1893 
Mr.  Burbank  originated  the  "Splendor"  prune,  followed  the  next 
year  by  the  well-named  "Giant"  plum,  and  in  1899  by  that  acme 


TEN  CROSSBRED  PLUMS,  SHOWING  WORTHLESS  AND   VALUABLE  FRUIT  PROM  SEEDLINGS 
OF  THE  SAME  FAMILY.     THE  BEST  IN  THE  GROUP  IS  THE  PRIZE  '*  CLIMAX^* 

of  perfection  in  prune  development,  the  "Sugar,"  destined   to 
first  place  among  its  kind. 

The  rose  and  lily  are  twin  claimants  to  Mr.  Burbank's  espe- 
cial favor  and  attention,  and  he  has  done  great  things  for  each. 
He  raised  five  acres  of  hybrid  lilies  at  one  time — over  500,000 
were  in  full  bloom  at  the  same  time  and  place.  There  were  lilies 
of  every  conceivable  and  inconceivable  shape  and  hue.  Out  of 
this  gigantic  enterprise  have  come  some  exquisitely  beautiful, 
fragrant  and  generally  superior  varieties.  The  new  hybrid 
crinum,  on  the  order  of  the  "St.  Joseph's  lily,"  is  said  on  high 
authority  to  be  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  perfect  crinums  in 
the  world. 

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218  OUT    WEST 

The  "Burbank"  rose — so  named  by  its  purchaser,  W.  Atlee 
Burpee,  the  well-known  Philadelphia  seedsman — won  the  gold 
medal  at  the  St.  Louis  exposition  in  1904,  as  the  best  bedding 
rose;  and  the  "Santa  Rosa"  rose  is  a  mate  to  the  "Burbank/'  A 
number  of  other  roses  might  be  mentioned,  all  of  a  high  order. 
In  the  culture  of  all  new  creations,  Mr.  Burbank  always  works 
toward  the  end  that  all  possible  excellence  shall  be  combined  in 
each  one.  For  an  instance  of  this  attention  to  general  symmetry 
of  development,  the  following  description  which  occurs  in  Mr. 
Burbank's  recently  issued  pamphlet,  '*The  New  Shasta  Daisies,*' 
is  quoted: 

**  ^Alaska' — the  whole  plant,  root,  stems,  leaves,  buds  and 
flowers  are  gigantic,  but  compact  and  graceful  in  every  respect. 
The  marvellous  combination  of  size,  grace,  glistening  whiteness, 
abundance  and  general  effectiveness  of  the  flowers,  which  are 
borne  on  long,  clean,  strong  stems,  will  place  it  at  once  far  ahead 
of  all  others  of  its  class.  Under  the  ordinary  field  cultivation 
given  chrysanthemums,  the  flowers  average  four-and-one-half  to 
five  inches  across,  on  stems  two  to  three  feet  long,  with  thirty- 
eight  to  forty-two  wide  petals,  and  a  very  small  disc,  and  with 
proper  disbudding,  are  produced  pereptually,  though  more 
abundantly  at  the  usual  blooming  season." 

Luther  Burbank,  who  for  over  thirty  years  past  has  made  his 
home  at  Santa  Rosa,  California,  was  born  at  Lancaster,  Massa- 
chusetts, March  7,  1849.  He  was  the  thirteenth  of  fifteen  chil- 
dren. His  father,  a  man  of  strong  character  and  widely  known 
for  his  personal  worth,  came  of  a  family  chiefly  devoted  to  edu- 
cational and  manufacturing  pursuits.  It  is  from  his  mother  that 
Mr.  Burbank  inherits  his  characteristic  traits,  and  especially  his 
taste  for  outdoor  life  and  horticulture. 

During  his  boyhood  the  young  Luther  became  deeply  inter- 
ested in  some  experiments  in  horticulture  indulged  in  by  sev- 
eral of  his  mother's  relatives.  His  maternal  grandfather  and 
uncles  grew  seedling  grapes,  rhubarbs,  and  other  food  plants 
in  the  endeavor,  then  being  encouraged  by  the  agricultural  pa- 
pers, to  originate  new  varieties,  the  older  sorts  having  greatly 
deteriorated. 

The  boy,  at  the  age  of  sixteen,  was  placed  in  a  plow  manu- 
factory in  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  being  designed  by  his  fam- 
ily for  a  manufacturer.  He  had  little  liking  for  life  in  a  dusty 
shop,  yet  his  virile  genius  applied  itself  to  its  set  task  so  well 
that  he  soon  invented  a  valuable  improvement  in  the  wood- 
working machinery.  His  employers  oflfered  to  greatly  increase 
his  wages  if  he  would  remain  and  continue  to  make  inventions 
for  their  use.  But  he  knew  his  vocation  lay  in  another  direction 
and  he  quitted  the  shop  for  the  garden.  Already  during  his 
spare  hours  as  an  apprentice  at  plow-making,  he  had  tried  some 
experiments  with  homely  plants  in  his  mother's  garden.  Beans 
and  potatoes  were  amongst  his  earliest  favorite  subjects.  It 
became  his  desire  to  produce  a  new  potato,  the  common  varieties 
of  the  time  being  generally  degenerate.  Success  leaped  to  his 
hand  and  he  gave  the  world  the  famous  "Burbank  seedling." 
He    continued    in    the   seed    and    plant   business    for    a    few 


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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  219 

years,  establishing  a  reputation  for  himself  in  his  native  com- 
munity as  a  successful  grower  and  exhibitor  at  the  agricultural 
fairs. 

It  eventually  appeared  to  the  young  man  that  he  must  seek  a 
more  suitable  soil  and  climate  than  New  England's  for  the  prose- 
cution of  his  chosen  work.  Reports  of  the  attractiveness  of 
California  led  him  hither.  In  1875  he  arrived  at  Santa  Rosa  and 
found  himself  in  an  ideal  location.  He  soon  made  his  home  on 
a  four-acre  tract  in  the  suburbs  of  the  bright  and  charming  little 
city,  and  still  resides  there.  His  house  is  a  plain,  pleasant, 
home-like  dwelling  almost  covered  in  summer  with  beautiful 
climbing  vines.  Near  by  are  grouped  greenhouses  and  other 
outbuildings  pertaining  to  plant  culture.    A  neatly  clipped  green 


BXPBRIMBNTAL  PLUMS  ON  THB  SRBASTOPOL  RANCH.     10,000  KINDS  OP  PLUMS  ARB 
BBING   TBSTBD  ON   THBSB  TWO   ROWS  OP  TRBBS 

hedge  extends  from  the  modest  street  gate  almost  to  the  porch 
steps.  Green  lawns  lie  on  either  side  of  the  hedge,  and  there 
are  beds  of  many  kinds  of  flowers  from  many  lands  beyond  and 
about  the  lawns.  There  are  small,  precious  areas  standing  deep 
in  Shasta  daisies,  golden-rod,  Mexican  tiger-lilies,  brodiaea,  and 
hundreds,  literally,  of  other  kinds  of  flowers,  set  about,  doing 
their  best  under  their  master's  fostering  care.  A  few  rare  trees 
stand  on  the  lawns  and  half  a  dozen  very  handsome  hybrid  wal- 
nut trees  of  Mr.  Burbank's  own  origination  line  the  avenue  in 
front.  A  superb  sugar-prune  tree  stands  at  a  rear  corner  of  the 
house,  and  neighbor  to  it  the  wonderful  new  improved  spineless 
cacti  flourish. 
The  interior  of  the  Burbank  home  is  simple  and  restful.     A 


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220  OUT    WBST 

feature  of  the  rooms  is  the  large  number  of  fine  paintings  of  some 
of  his  flowers,  presented  to  him  by  friends.  The  famous  flower 
painter,  Paul  de  Longpre,  is  a  great  admirer  of  the  famous  cre- 
ator of  flowers,  and  has  sent  him  some  beautiful  work.  A  fine 
bunch  of  his  new  fadeless  Australian  star  flowers  hangs  over  one 
corner  of  his  mantel,  as  fresh  as  when  placed  there  several  sea- 
sons ago.  Mr.  Burbank's  venerable  mother,  now  in  her  ninety- 
third  year,  is  an  honored  member  of  the  household. 

Mr.  Burbank's  principal  experimental  grounds  are  at  Sebas- 
lopol,  a  progressive  and  rapidly  growing  town  seven  miles  west 
of  Santa  Rosa  and  about  sixty  miles  north  of  San  Francisco. 
Here,  for  over  ten  years,  the  Burbank  nursery  was  a  mine  of 
profit  to  its  owner.  And  here  for  quite  twenty  years  Mr.  Bur- 
bank  has  been  struggling,  never  daunted  by  failure,  never  elated 
by  success,  to  raise  the  gifts  of  God  to  man  to  their  highest 
potentialities. 


NEW  CARNATION   PINKS 


There  are  fifteen  acres  in  the  Burbank  experimental  grounds  at 
Sebastopol.  This  famous  little  area  lies  on  the  southeastern 
slope  of  a  hill — one  of  the  numerous  gentle  elevations  character- 
istic of  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Gold  Ridge  section  of  Sonoma 
county.  The  soil  and  climate  are  ideal  for  agricultural  and 
horticultural  purposes,  and  so  Mr.  Burbank,  stranger  though  Ke 
was  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  perceived  with  his  usual  prescient 
judgment,  when  he  bought  his  small  holding  at  Sebastopol  over 
two  decades  ago.  On  those  precious  fifteen  acres  are  numerous 
rows  of  plum-trees,  which  certainly  are  the  most  famous  and 
most  curious-looking  plum-trees  on  earth.  Almost  every  tree 
has  from  40  to  60  different  kinds  of  grafts,  and  one  especially 
fine  tree  bears  over  600.  Plums,  purple,  white,  red,  yellow, 
crimson,  speckled,  long,  round,  oval,  and  all  sorts  of  varying 
tints  and  shapes  between,  hang  on  different  branches  ot  the 
same  tree.     Some  are  ripe  before  others  are  half  formed.     On 


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LUTHER  BURBANK,  SCIENTIST  221 

some  trees  flourish  grafts  bearing  foliage  totally  different  from 
that  on  other  branches.  Here  is  the  work-shop,  the  laboratory, 
wherein  Luther  Burbank  produces,  out  of  seeming  chaos,  new 
creations  in  plums. 

Near  the  plum  department  of  the  grounds  grow  many  kinds 
of  wild  plums,  currants,  cherries  and  other  fruits,  brought  to 
contribute  such  of  their  qualities  as  may  help  to  build  up  a  new 
race  or  variety  of  their  kind. 

Beyond  the  orchard  is  a  modest-looking  potato-field.  No  less 
than  16,000  different  kinds  of  potatoes  are  stirring  under  that 
small  extent  of  soil  and  it  may  happen  that  we  shall  soon  see 
a  great  new-born  successor  to  the  celebrated  Burbank  seedling. 

Thousands  of  seedling  rose-bushes,  hybrid  berry-plants,  and 
other  horticultural  treasures  are  features  of  the  place.  Walnut, 
chestnut,  almond  and  chincapin  trees  abound  and  are  marvel- 
lously  rapid  growers  and   produce   nuts    phenomenally    early. 


FRUITS  OF  ONE  OF  THE  NEW   HYBRID  CACTUS.      (HALF  SIZE) 

The  walnuts  and  chestnuts  bear  the  second  year  from  the  seed. 

Mr.  Burbank  is  working  upon  almost  countless  kinds  of  plants 
from  many  foreign  lands  as  well  as  home  regions.  The  passion 
flower  cultivated  in  Africa,  Australia  and  South  America  for  its 
valuable  edible  fruit  is  here  being  greatly  improved  and  made  to 
produce  a  fruit  in  size  from  a  turkey's  to  an  ostrich's  egg,  and 
delicious  as  custard.  One  variety  bears  a  shell  on  the  fruft, 
which  enables  shippers  to  send  it  long  distances  uninjured,  while 
it  will  keep  almost  indefinitely. 

The  loquat,  tomato,  lavender,  mayberry,  Chinese  rice-paper 
tree,  "service"  tree,  sweet  potato,  cherry,  liquorice  plant,  wild 
fuchsia  and  innumerable  other  representatives  of  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  are  taking  new  steps  and  acquiring  new  and  lasting 
habits,  traits  and  qualities  in  the  wonderful  Burbank  school  of 
plant  character  at  Sebastopol. 

On  the  Burbank  home  grounds  at  Santa  Rosa  are  also  a  vast 
number  of  different  kinds  of  plants  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe. 
Nine  acres  are  in  this  tract,  but  only  part  of  it  is  at  present  occu- 


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222  OUT    WEST 

pied  by  plants  undergoing  development.  There  are  plots  of  a 
great  variety  of  things  from  cactii  to  perennial  California  pop- 
pies, and  from  fadeless  Australian  star  flowers  to  Indian  camassia. 

The  cost  of  carrying  on  all  these  experiments — about  three 
thousand  in  number — is  very  considerable.  As  has  been  said, 
the  Carnegie  Institute  has  taken  hold  of  the  matter  and  has 
placed  at  Mr.  Burbank's  disposal,  to  draw  upon  if  necessary, 
$10,000  annually  for  a  period  of  ten  years.  Recently  the  famous 
experimenter  cast  up  his  half-yearly  accounts  and  found  that, 
although  he  had  administered  the  Carnegie  apportionment  with 
the  utmost  prudence  and  economy,  the  cost  of  his  six  months' 
efforts  had  rather  exceeded  the  $5000  allotted  for  that  period, 
though  such  heavy  expenditures  as  were  necessary  this  half- 
year  wall  probably  not  occur  again.  Certain  it  is  that  had  this 
outside  assistance  not  reached  him,  the  world  never  would  have 
gained  many  of  the  good  things  which  he  had  brought  almost  to 
perfection  by  twenty-five  years  of  care. 

Over  six  thousand  people,  from  all  over  the  world,  visited  Mr. 
Burbank  last  year.  Of  this  number,  perhaps  one  per  cent  were 
invited.  The  penalty  of  greatness  has  descended  on  this  tre- 
mendously busy  man,  and  threatens  to  overwhelm  him.  His 
correspondence  has  grown  to  most  appalling  proportions.  All 
sorts  of  people  want  to  see  him  and  he  receives  letters  containing 
every  conceivable  query.  The  public  can  have  no  clear  and 
comprehensive  idea  of  his  work,  situation  or  circumstances,  or 
he  surely  would  not  thus  be  interrupted,  imf)ortuned  and  over- 
whelmed. If  only  it  could  be  impressed  upon  the  public  mind 
that  Luther  Burbank  is  a  man  whose  every  moment  is  price- 
less, either  to  work  or  to  rest,  there  surely  would  be  far  fewer 
visitors  and  letters.  In  fact,  the  moderate  restrictions  which 
were  in  force  for  several  years  have  recently  been  superseded 
by  rigid  regulations.  No  visitors  are  admitted  save  the  few 
having  an  imperative  claim  to  the  privilege  and  they  must  make 
an  appointment  beforehand. 

The  old  friends  and  neighbors  of  Mr.  Burbank  entertain  the 
deepest  affection  for  him,  and  are  extremely  proud  to  have  him  a 
citizen  of  their  commonwealth.  Every  possible  honor  is  be- 
stowed upon  him  at  home,  and  his  world-wide  celebrity  is  bring- 
ing him  distinguished  notice  from  abroad,  both  from  individuals 
and  societies.  Crowned  heads  have  written  letters  to  him.  He 
has  been  given  a  handful  of  gold  medals,  among  them  the  great 
semi-centennial  medal  of  the  California  Academy  of  Science,  of 
which  institution  he  is  also  an  honorary  member,  the  gold  medal 
at  the  Pan-American  Exposition  for  hybrid  fruits,  and  several 
other  such  awards.  He  is  a  Fellow  of  the  American  Association 
for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  and  an  honorary  member  of 
very  many  prominent  scientific  organizations ;  also  of  clubs,  so- 
cieties, associations  and  other  learned  or  social  bodies.  It  ma> 
be  added  that  Mr.  Burbank's  medals  repose  in  the  obscurity  of 
a  local  safe  deposit  vault,  and  his  certificates  are  sequestered 
in  some  remote  part  of  his  secretary.  For  he  is  of  that  rare 
order  of  greatness  that  looks  not  back  with  complacency  upon 
the  work  done,  but  forward  to  the  work  yet  to  do. 

Sebastopol,  Cal. 


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223 
SACAJAWEA 

By  F.  N.  FLETCHER 

[CoMclmded  from  last  month] 

N  A  few  days  Captain  Clark  was  able  to  go  on 
with  the  boats,  while  Captain  Lewis  pushed 
ahead  by  land,  taking  Sacajawea  with  him  at 
first,  but  later  leaving  her  with  the  main  party, 
probably  because,  impeded  by  her  infant, 
progress  was  too  slow.  Owing  to  the  hot 
weather  and  the  frequent  rapids,  progress  up 
the  Jefferson  by  boats  was  slow  and  very  toil- 
some, the  men  being  often  compelled  to  wade  in  the  stream  and 
pull  the  boats  by  cords.  To  three  large  streams  falling  into  the 
Jefferson  Captain  Lewis  gave  the  names,  Philosophy,  Wisdom 
and  Philanthropy,  "in  commemoration  of  those  cardinal  virtues'' 
which  he  attributed  to  his  chief,  President  Jefferson.  Sixty  years 
later  the  sands  of  these  streams  were  found  to  contain  gold,  and 
the  seekers  of  it,  unmindful  perhaps  of  cardinal  virtues,  called 
the  streams,  respectively,  Willow  Creek,  Big  Hole  and  Stinking 
Water  Rivers,  which  names  still  hold.  Pushing  on  ahead  of  the 
main  party.  Captain  Lewis  in  a  few  days  reached  the  head  of 
possible  navigation  for  his  boats  at  the  junction  of  Prairie  Creek 
with  the  main  stream,  and,  turning  up  the  smaller  creek  to  the 
west,  soon  arrived  at  a  beautiful  valley  to  which  he  gave  the 
name  of  Shoshoni  Cove ;  for  here  he  first  saw  an  Indian  of  that 
tribe. 

The  Indian,  mounted  on  a  fine  horse,  fled  at  the  approach  of 
the  white  man.  At  the  head  of  Shoshoni  Valley  the  little  party 
reached  the  summit  of  the  pass,  the  first  of  their  race  to  stand 
on  the  Rocky  Mountain  divide  in  the  northwest  territory.  The 
next  day,  pursuing  their  course  down  the  western  slope,  they 
came  upon  some  Indian  women  digging  roots.  Winning  the 
confidence  of  these  by  presents  of  trinkets  and  by  painting  their 
cheeks  with  vermilion,  he  was  led  by  them  to  the  camp  some  dis- 
tance beyond,  where  he  was  welcomed  by  the  chief  and  a  band 
of  sixty  warriors,  with  whom  he  and  his  companions  smoked  the 
pipe  of  peace.  Captain  Lewis  remained  with  his  new  friends  two 
or  three  days  in  order  to  allow  Captain  Clark  time  to  reach 
Prairie  Creek  with  the  boats ;  then,  accompanied  by  the  whole 
band,  he  set  out  to  meet  the  main  party. 

On  the  morning  of  the  meeting,  Sacajawea  was  walking  in 
advance  of  the  boats,  with  Charboneau  and  Captain  Clark,  when 
she  suddenly  stopped,  and  to  Captain  Clark  s  surprise  began  to 
dance  and  to  point  at  some  approaching  Indians,  at  the  same 


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224  OUT    WEST 

time  sucking  her  fingers  to  denote  that  they  were  her  kindred. 
One  of  the  Indian  women  rushed  forward  and  tenderly  embraced 
Sacajawea.  She  was  the  girl  companion  who  had  shared  Saca- 
jawea's  early  captivity  with  the  Minataree,  but  had  escaped  and 
returned  to  her  tribe.  As  the  news  of  the  captive's  return  was 
spread  among  the  Indians  her  old  friends  and  kindred  crowded 
around  her,  greeting  her  with  hearty  demonstrations  of  interest' 
and  affection.  One  warrior,  old  enough  to  be  her  father,  claimed 
her  for  his  wife,  having  purchased  her  from  her  parents  while  she 
was  a  child ;  but,  finding  she  was  already  the  wife  of  another,  he 
relinquished  his  claim,  and  said  he  did  not  want  her,  as  he  already 
had  two  wives. 

While  Sacajawea  was  receiving  the  greetings  of  her  friends, 
Captain  Clark  went  on  to  the  camp  where  Captain  Lewis  and 
Chief  Cameahwait  were  resting  in  a  tent  of  skins.  Here  a  coun- 
cil was  held,  preceded  by  the  inevitable  pipe  of  peace.  In  order 
that  the  conversation  might  be  more  readily  understood,  Sacaja- 
wea was  sent  for  to  act  as  interpreter.  As  she  entered  the  tent 
she  recognized  in  Cameahwait  her  brother,  and  rushing  forward 
she  embraced  him,  throwing  her  blanket  over  him  and  bursting 
into  tears.  The  chief  himself  was  much  affected  and  it  was  some 
time  before  the  Indian  woman  could  control  herself  sufficiently 
to  perform  her  duty  as  interpreter.  After  the  council  she  learned 
that  both  her  parents,  and  indeed  all  her  kindred,  except  two 
brothers,  had  died  during  her  absence. 

It  was  the  object  of  the  expedition  to  secure  horses  from  the 
Indians,  and,  with  these  to  carry  the  baggage,  to  push  on  to  the 
nearest  navigable  stream  that  would  take  them  to  the  Columbia. 
Inquiry  as  to  a  passable  route  to  a  navigable  stream  elicited  very 
discouraging  replies,  from  the  Indians.  The  nearest  stream  was 
altogether  impassable  for  boats,  nor  could  men  and  horses  fol- 
low its  course  because  of  the  high  mountains  covered  with  snow. 
Indeed,  it  is  now  aparent  that  the  expedition  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountain  divide  at  perhaps  the  worst  pass  that  could  have  been 
found.  In  order  to  know  of  their  own  observation  what  course 
to  pursue.  Captain  Clark,  after  a  few  days  with  the  Shoshonis, 
pushed  on  to  the  west  with  eleven  men  to  find,  if  possible,  the 
Columbia,  leaving  Captain  Lewis  to  barter  with  the  Indians  for 
horses.  Captain  Clark  was  not  successful  in  finding  a  route  to 
the  Columbia,  and  after  several  days  of  arduous  effort,  he  re- 
turned to  the  Shoshoni  camp,  an  old  Indian  having  informed  him 
that  a  road,  passable  though  difficult,  led  from  this  point  over  the 
high  mountains  to  the  north  and  down  into  a  valley  whose  in- 
habitants could  direct  him  to  the  Columbia.  This  route  was 
finally  adopted. 


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SAC  A  JAW  B  A  225 

In  the  meantime,  Captain  Lewis,  in  his  capacity  of  horse- 
trader,  was  eking  out  his  small  stock  of  trinkets  with  every 
blandishment  known  to  the  profession ;  for  the  Indians  sold  their 
horses  with  great  reluctance.  Before  the  trading  began  each  day, 
the  Indians  were  put  in  as  good  humor  as  possible  by  music 
from  the  violin,  dancing,  displaying  the  tricks  of  Captain  Lewises 
dog,  and  shooting  the  airgun ;  the  last  mentioned  being  pro- 
nounced *'great  medicine"  by  the  astonished  natives.  Finally, 
after  several  days,  a  supply  of  twenty-two  horses  was  secured. 


THE  JOCKO  RIVBR 

Owing  largely,  no  doubt,  to  the  presence  and  influence  of  Saca- 
jawea,  the  Shoshoni  had  proven  friendly  and  honorable  in  their 
relations  with  the  white  visitors.  They  expressed  great  anxiety 
that  trading  posts  be  established  among  them,  especially  that 
they  might  obtain  fire-arms  with  which  to  meet  their  enemies  in 
the  buffalo  country  on  equal  terms. 

With  the  old  Indian  for  a  guide,  the  expedition  set  out  from 
the  Shoshoni  camp,  August  30,  to  cross  the  high  range  of  mount- 
tains  to  the  north.  This  is  the  Bitter-root  range  of  modern  maps, 
and  the  journey  on  the  north  side  was  down  the  Bitter-root  val- 


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226  OUT    WEST 

ley  in  Montana.  The  baggage  was  carried  on  the  backs  of  the 
Shoshoni  horses.  The  mountain  sides  were  exceedingly  steep 
and  covered  with  brush,  while  snow  covered  the  summits.  After 
four  days  of  great  hardship,  the  expedition  reached  an  Indian 
camp  in  the  Bitter-root  valley  and  was  kindly  received.  Going 
down  the  valley  to  a  point  a  few  miles  from  the  present  site  of 
Missoula,  the  party  camped  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek,  to  which  the 
name  of  Travelers'  Rest  was  given.  Here  a  much-needed  rest 
of  three  days  was  taken.  When  the  march  was  again  taken  up, 
its  course  was  along  Travelers'  Rest  Creek  to  the  west.  The 
Indian  guide  was  still  with  them,  and  from  Indians  in  the  valley 
the  general  course  towards  the  Columbia  was  learned.  The  food 
supply  of  the  expedition  was  now  exhausted,  and  the  country 
through  which  they  were  passing  contained  very  little  game. 
The  hunters  were  unable  to  supply  food,  and  horse  flesh  was 
finally  resorted  to.  The  journey  over  these  mountains  required 
ten  days,  and  the  little  band  was  nearly  famished  when  it  finally 
reached  the  valley  of  the  Clearwater.  Here  they  fell  in  with  some 
Indians  under  Chief  Twisted  Hair,  by  whom  they  were  abun- 
dantly fed  with  berries,  roots  and  dried  fish.  Pushing  on  they 
arrived  September  26th  at  the  forks  of  the  Clearwater,  and  went 
into  camp  for  the  purpose  of  building  canoes  with  which  to  con- 
tinue the  journey  by  water.  These  were  of  the  sort  known  as 
"dugouts,"  hollowed  by  fire  out  of  large  tree  trunks.  The  horses 
were  left  with  Twisted  Hair  to  be  kept  for  the  return  journey. 

The  voyage  down  the  Clearwater  to  Lewis,  or  Snake  River, 
and  thence  to  the  Columbia,  was  full  of  excitement  and  peril. 
The  Columbia  was  reached  October  16.  Food  was  again  very 
difficult  to  obtain,  and  in  lieu  of  horse  flesh  the  travelers  were 
obliged  to  depend  upon  dog-meat,  which  they  purchased  from 
the  Indians.  The  Indians  of  the  Columbia  they  found,  as  a  rule, 
to  be  unfriendly  and  thievish.  The  great  river  was  easily  navi- 
gable, except  at  the  rapids  and  cascades,  and  these  were  passed 
without  disaster.  November  3d  the  last  rapid  was  passed  and 
the  brave  little  company  was  filled  with  joy  to  discover  that  the 
tide-water  of  the  great  ocean  was  now  reached ;  four  days  later, 
as  the  fog  lifted  from  the  waters  about  them,  they  broke  into 
cheers  to  behold  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Pacific  before  them. 

Although  the  goal  of  their  long  journey  was  now  reached, 
their  hardships  were  by  no  means  at  an  end.  The  few  days 
spent  about  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  in  search  of  a  suitable 
spot  for  winter  quarters  were  fraught  with  the  most  trying  dis- 
comforts and  imminent  perils  endured  throughout  the  voyage. 
A  furious  storm,  which  lasted  several  days,  drove  them  to  seek 
shelter  on  the  north  shore  of  the  river.     Here  the  entire  beach 


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SACAJAWEA  -227 

up  to  the  steep  bluffs  was  covered  with  logs  and  driftwood,  upon 
which  they  pulled  their  canoes  and  made  a  camp.  The  high 
waves  set  all  this  driftwood  afloat  in  the  night,  and  for  two  days 
and  nights  they  were  exposed,  without  shelter  and  with  little 
food,  to  the  incessant  rains  and  winds  of  a  November  storm.  A 
lull  in  the  storm  allowed  them  to  move  into  a  more  favorable 
place  nearer  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  and  here,  for  six  days  more, 
they  were  at  the  mercy  of  the  storm  at  "Point  Distress,*'  as  Cap- 
lain  Clark  aptly  named  "the  miserable  spot." 

When  the  storm  finally  ceased  it  was  evident  that  winter 
quarters  must  be  found  at  once.  From  some  Indians  it  was 
learned  that  deer  and  elk  were  more  abundant  on  the  south  side 


WSST  BNTRANCB  JBFFBK80N  CASoN,  MONTANA 

of  the  river,  a  matter  of  prime  importance  to  the  expedition.  Ac- 
cordingly they  crossed  over  to  the  south  shore,  and  ascending  a 
small  stream  (Netul  River)  about  three  miles,  they  landed  and 
selected  a  camp-site  in  a  grove  of  pines  on  the  west  bank.  Here, 
in  huts  made  from  planks  split  from  pine  logs,  they  passed  the 
winter,  naming  their  camp  Fort  Clatsop  from  the  Indians  who 
dwelt  in  the  vicinity,  and  who,  if  not  especially  friendly,  were 
not  overly  hostile.  The  ocean  was  seven  miles  distant,  and 
thither  a  small  party  was  sent  to  procure  salt  by  evaporating 
sea-water. 

During  the  winter  a  whale  was  reported  to  be  on  the  ocean 


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SACAJAWEA  229 

beach,  and  many  of  the  men  went  over  to  see  it.  Sacajawea 
requested  to  be  allowed  to  accompany  them.  She  had,  she  said, 
accompanied  the  expedition  over  the  mountains  to  the  big  lake, 
but  she  had  never  been  allowed  to  visit  it ;  and,  now  that  the  big 
rish  was  on  the  shore,  it  seemed  hard  that  she  could  see  neither 
the  fish  nor  the  sea.  Her  request  was  granted.  The  winter 
passed  slowly  and  tediously.  Game  was  far  from  abundant,  and 
often  the  food  supply  was  perilously  low.  Dog-meat  was  a  fre- 
quent, and  even  a  favorite,  resource.  It  was  only  with  great 
effort  that  sufficient  elk  and  deer  skins  for  clothing  were  secured. 
Fort  Clatsop  was  abandoned  without  regret  March  23,  1806, 
and  the  journey  up  the  Columbia  began.  Aside  from  the  con- 
stant dearth  of  food  and  the  great  difficulties  met  in  ascending 
the  rapids,  the  return  voyage  up  the  river  was  not  of  especial 
interest.  They  found  the  Indians  along  the  river  in  almost  a 
starving  condition,  their  chief  source  of  food  being  the  wappato 
roots.  These  grow  in  the  mud  at  the  bottoms  of  ponds,  whence 
they  are  procured  by  the  squaws,  who  wade  into  the  water,  fre- 
quently neck-deep,  and  detach  the  roots  with  their  toes. 

Among  all  the  Indians  visited  by  the  expedition  it  was  ob- 
served that  the  treatment  of  their  women  was  based  entirely  upon 
her  economic  value  and  not  at  all  upon  any  sentiment  of  affec- 
tion ;  indeed,  the  lower  the  condition  of  the  tribe,  the  greater  was 
the  consideration  shown  to  women.  As  the  expedition  reached 
the  Cascades,  navigation  was  abandoned  and  the  party  went  on 
by  land,  a  few  horses  having  been  procured  from  the  Indians. 
On  the  eighth  of  May  the  expedition  fell  in  with  Twisted  Hair, 
with  whom  the  horses  had  been  left  the  year  before.  Here  it 
was  discovered  that  the  snow  was  still  too  deep  on  the  mount- 
ains to  allow  the  expedition  to  pass  over,  though  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  provisions  an  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made.  A 
delay  of  about  six  weeks  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  was  caused 
by  the  snow.  The  reputation  of  the  white  "medicine  men''  had 
waxed  great  since  their  visit  of  the  previous  year,  and  now  all 
the  sick  and  maimed  Indians  for  miles  around  were  brought  to 
them  for  treatment.  As  the  principal  ailment  was  an  inflamma- 
tion of  the  eyes,  and  eye-water  was  easy  to  make,  the  circum- 
stance really  redounded  to  the  benefit  of  the  white  visitors,  who 
received  much  food  in  the  way  of  dog-  and  horse-meat,  as  fees 
for  professional  services.  Among  the  invalids  was  Sacajawea's 
baby,  who  took  advantage  of  the  delay  to  develop  a  case  of 
"mumps." 

Finally,  June  24th,  a  second  start  over  the  mountains  was 
made.  This  time  three  young  Indians  acted  as  guides.  The 
snow  was  still  deep,  but  so  frozen  as  to  hold  up  the  horses.   Five 


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232  OUT    WEST 

days  later  they  left  the  snows  and  went  down  into  the  valley 
of  Travelers*  Rest  Creek.  At  their  old  camp  a  halt  of  two  days 
was  made;  and  here  the  expedition  was  divided.  From  their 
own  maps,  as  well  as  from  information  from  the  Indians,  they 
had  learned  that  the  mouth  of  Dearborn  River,  above  the  Great 
Falls  of  the  Missouri,  was  nearer  by  five  hundred  miles  in  a 
direct  line  from  their  present  camp  than  by  the  long  detour  up 
the  Jefferson.  It  was  therefore  decided  that  Captain  Lewis 
with  nine  picked  men  should  cross  the  Rocky  Mountain  divide 
by  the  most  direct  route ;  while  Captain  Clark  with  the  balance 
of  the  party  should  return  to  the  Jefferson,  pick  up  the  boats 


JBPPBRSON  CAfiON  AND  KXVBR 

and  material  left  there,  descend  that  stream  to  the  Missouri,  send 
a  few  men  down  the  latter  river  to  join  Captain  Lewis,  and  him- 
self and  the  main  party  cross  over  to  the  Yellowstone,  go  down 
that  river  and  meet  Captain  Lewis  at  its  mouth.  This  plan  was 
carried  out.  How  Captain  Lewis  went  up  the  Big  Blackfoot 
River  and  crossed  the  divide  in  a  low  pass  at  its  head;  how  he 
reached  the  Missouri,  and,  leaving  six  men  at  White  Bear  camp, 
set  out  with  the  three  others  to  explore  Maria's  River;  how  he 
narrowly  escaped  death  in  a  battle  with  the  Sioux,  and  how  he 
finally  descended  the  river  in  safety,  is  a  story  by  itself.  Our 
present  interest  is  with  the  main  party,  with  which  was  Saca- 
iawea. 


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SACAJAWEA  233 

Going  up  the  Bitter  Root  valley  by  the  route  followed  the 
preceding  year,  Captain  Clark  and  his  party  came  to  an  Indian 
road,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  which  led  to  the  east  of  their 
former  course.  From  the  Indians  they  learned  that  this  road 
led  to  the  buffalo  country  east  of  the  mountains,  and  that  it  was 
easier  to  travel  over  than  the  difficult  road  that  led  to  Cameah- 
wait's  camp.  Selecting  the  more  easterly  course  the  party 
crossed  the  mountains  by  what  is  now  known  as  Gibbon's  Pass, 
from  General  John  Gibbon,  who  was  in  command  when  the  bat- 
tle of  the  Big  Hole  was  fought  in  1877.  The  Indian  roads  scat- 
tered in  the  valley  of  the  Big  Hole  and  Captain  Clark  was  un- 
certain of  his  course;  but  fortunately  Sacajawea  was  familiar 
with  this  valley  and  guided  him  safely  over  the  mountains  to 


PLACER   MINII^O.  JEPPBRSON  BAR,  MONTANA 

the  southeast  and  down  into  Shoshoni  Cove,  where  their  canoes 
were  cached.  Here  they  found  the  supplies,  which  had  been 
buried  all  winter,  in  good  condition.  After  spending  a  day  in 
repairing  and  loading  the  canoes,  the  party  began  the  descent 
of  the  Jefferson  River,  the  horses  being  taken  by  land  to  be  used 
later  in  crossing  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Yellowstone  valley. 
None  of  Cameahwait's  band  was  seen  and  Sacajawea  left  the 
home  of  her  childhood  without  again  meeting  any  of  her  friends. 
Proceeding  leisurely  down  the  river  they  arrived  July  13th 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Madison  River,  where  Sacajawea  had  been 
captured  six  years  before.  Here  they  were  joined  by  the  party 
with  the  horses,  and  all  went  on  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gallatin. 
Here  the  party  was  again  divided,  ten  men  going  down  the  Mis- 


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SACAJAWBA  235 

souri  with  the  canoes  and  joining  Captain  Lewis's  party  at 
White  Bear  Island.  Captain  Clark,  with  ten  men  and  the  In- 
dian woman,  went  up  the  Gallatin  River  to  the  east,  following  ap- 
proximately the  present  route  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 
In  the  valley  of  the  Gallatin  were  several  well-worn  Indian  roads, 
most  of  them  leading  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains  to  the  north- 
east, but  Sacajawea  advised  a  more  southerly  course,  saying 
that  a  low  pass  would  be  found  in  that  direction  leading  to  the 
Yellowstone.  Fortunately  her  advice  was  followed.  "The  In- 
dian woman  has  been  of  great  service  to  me  as  a  pilot  through 
this  country,"  says  Captain  Clark.    The  low  gap  through  whicll 


POMPBT^S  PILLAR.  YBLLOWSTONB  VALLBY 


the  party  easily  made  its  way  is  now  known  as  Bozeman  Pass ; 
in  justice  and  gratitude  it  ought  to  be  named  Sacajawea's  Pass, 
to  commemorate  the  fidelity  and  heroism  of  the  simple  Indian 
woman  who  was  so  useful  a  member  of  this  important  expedi- 
tion. But  for  her  sagacity  Captain  Clark  and  his  little  party 
would  undoubtedly  have  gone  far  out  of  his  proper  course  to 
the  northeast,  among  the  hostile  Sioux. 

Going  down  the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains,  the  party 
came  to  the  Yellowstone  River,  not  far  from  the  present  site  of 
Livingston,  Montana.  For  several  days  they  continued  their 
journey  by  land  along  the  north  bank  of  the  Yellowstone,  look- 
ing in  vain  for  tre^s  suitable  for  making;  into  canoes.     Finally 


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236  OUT    WEST 

twenty-four  of  their  horses  were  stolen  by  Indians,  and  further 
progress  by  land  was  next  to  impossible.  Accordingly  the  larg- 
est of  the  small  cottonwood  trees  were  utilized  for  constructing 
two  very  long  and  narrow  canoes,  which,  for  safety,  were  lashed 
together  side  by  side.  In  these  the  company  embarked.  Three 
men  started  out  by  land  to  take  the  remainder  of  the  horses  to 
Fort  Mandan;  they  were  robbed  of  all  their  horses  by  the  In- 
dians on  the  third  day  and  were  forced  to  return  to  the  Yellow- 
stone, where  they  constructed  two  frail  boats,  covered  with  skins, 
in  which  they  safely  followed  and  finally  overtook  the  main 
party  below  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone. 

Captain  Clark  and  his  party  descended  the  river  without  es- 


THB  SNOWY  RANGE,  MONTANA 


pecial  incident.  Once  they  were  delayed  an  hour  while  a  band  of 
buffalo  was  crossing  the  river  ahead  of  them ;  and  in  general  the 
quantity  of  game  along  the  Yellowstone  was  marvelous,  even 
to  these  old  hunters.  Finally,  in  the  afternoon  of  August  3d, 
they  reached  the  Missouri  River,  and  camped  at  the  junction. 
Here  they  intended  to  wait  for  Captain  Lewis,  but  "the  camp 
became  absolutely  uninhabitable  in  consequence  of  the  multi- 
tude of  mosquitoes ;"  so,  leaving  a  note  for  Captain  Lewis,  they 
continued,  by  slow  stages,  the  voyage  down  the  river.  On  Au- 
gust 1 2th  Captain  Lewis  and  his  party  overtook  them,  and  the 
expedition  was  again  united.  Six  days  later  they  were  at  Fort 
Mandan,  among  the  friendly  Minataree,  by  whom  they  were 
pleasantly  received.     It  was  planned  that  several  Indian  chiefs. 

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S  AC  A  JAW  B  A  237 

should  accompany  Captain  Lewis  to  Washington,  and  Char- 
boneau,  with  his  wife,  was  requested  to  go  with  them  as  inter- 
preter; but,  his  term  of  service  having  expired,  he  declined  to 
go  farther.  Accordingly,  while  the  expedition  went  on  to  St. 
Louis  to  be  mustered  out,  he  remained  among  the  Minataree. 
For  many  years  he  was  a  well-known  guide  and  trapper  along 
the  waters  of  the  upper  Missouri. 

Of  the  subsequent  history  of  Sacajawea  very  little  is  known. 
While  she  had  suffered  great  hardships  in  her  voyage  with  the 
expedition,  she  had  nevertheless  been  treated  with  a  kindness 
and  consideration  to  which,  as  an  Indian  woman  and  the  pur- 
chased wife  of  Charboneau,  she  had  never  been  accustomed; 
and  ever  after  she  was  a  firm  friend  and  admirer  of  the  white 
people,  whose  dress  and  manners  she  tried  to  imitate.     While 


LOWBR  CASCADBS,  COLUMBIA  RIVER 


health  and  strength  remained,  she  lived  contentedly  in  that  pic- 
turesque life  which  resulted  from  the  commingling  of  traders, 
trappers  and  Indians  along  our  western  frontier.  Uncivilized 
as  the  life  was,  it  was  too  nearly  akin  to  civilization  to  be  health- 
ful to  the  simple  Indian  woman;  and  in  1811  (in  Brackenridge's 
Journal)  we  catch  our  final  glimpse  of  her,  weak  and  ill,  on  her 
way  up  the  Missouri  in  company  with  a  party  of  whites.  With 
failing  strength  her  thoughts  went  back  to  the  peaceful  days  of 
her  childhood  beyond  the  buffalo  country,  to  the  salmon-fishing, 
root-digging  Shoshoni,  in  whose  lodges  were  her  friends  and 
h9me.  Thither  she  had  turned  her  steps,  and  it  may  be  hoped 
that  she  who  had  been  so  unselfish  was  gratified  in  her  wishes, 
and  that  her  last  years  were  passed  in  the  mountain  valleys 
among  the  scenes  and  with  the  friends  she  loved. 

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239 
THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMONISM 

By  PRESIDENT  JOSEPH  F.  SMITH 
Of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter  Day  Saints 

^^^,^^^^.  MOST  malicious  and  determined  effort  is  being 
CA'^T/V^S^  made  at  the  present  time  to  misrepresent  the 
^S^/.4m^^^^  ^^^^  ^"^  motives  of  prominent  men  in  Utah. 
The  hackneyed  question  of  "polygamy,"  and 
the  equally  well-worn  subject  of  "church  and 
state,"  while  still  harped  upon,  are  no  longer 
to  the  fore  in  these  savage  and  unscrupulous 
assaults  upon  the  lives  and  characters  of  the 
present  "Mormon"  leaders.  The  partial  re- 
tirement of  those  trite  and  threadbare  themes 
is  doubtless  for  the  reason  that  the  most  virulent  enemies  of  our 
cause  are  becoming  convinced  that  they  cannot  convert  into 
facts  their  whilom  pet  theories,  to  the  effect  that  the  so-called 
"dominant  church"  has  re-sanctioned  the  inhibited  practice  of 
plural  marriage,  and  that  it  dictates  to  its  members  how  they 
shall  exercise  their  political  rights  and  privileges.  Therefore, 
these  plotters  against  peace  and  good  will — the  only  real  ene- 
mies of  the  "American  home,"  the  only  actual  uniters  of  church 
and  state — see  the  necessity  for  a  change  of  base,  or  at  least 
a  new  war-cry,  in  order  to  succeed  in  their  nefarious  work  of 
deceiving  the  nation  and  the  world  regarding  the  unpopular 
"Mormons" — the  most  persistently  slandered  and  most  misun- 
derstood people  under  the  sun. 

The  main  charge  now  is  "commercialism" — the  alleged  de- 
parture of  the  Church,  under  the  present  administration,  from 
its  original  standards;  the  sordid  and  selfish  enthronement  of  the 
temporal  above  the  spiritual.  This  accusation  is  intended,  of 
course,  to  have  its  greatest  effect,  in  the  designs  and  desires 
of  its  inventors,  upon  the  Latter-day  Saints  themselves ;  a  schism 
in  their  ranks  being  among  the  things  hoped  for  by  these  re- 
ligious and  political  conspirators.  Much  is  being  said  of  the 
alleged  tyranny  of  the  "Mormon"  tithing  system,  the  "exac- 
tions," "extortions,"  "oppressions"  and  ."cruelties"  said  to  be 
practiced  by  the  Church,  and  particularly  by  myself,  to  the  in- 
finite woe  and  misery  of  widows,  orphans,  and  poor  people  in 
general,  the  so-called  "dupes  and  victims  of  the  Hierarchy."  Day 
after  day,  from  press,  pulpit  and  rostrum,  in  various  parts  of  the 
land,  these  falsehoods,  with  "polygamy"  and  "church  influence" 

It  hardly  needs  to  be  said  that  Out  West  holds  no  brief  for  **  Mormomism''— nor  airainst 
it.  Bnt  qnite  apart  from  social  or  relig'ions  qnestions,  it  is  fflad  to  open  its  paffes  to  a 
frank  and  aaedited  statement  from  the  executive  head  of  a  body  which  has  had  so  ffreat 
an  influence  on  the  economic  development  of  the  West,  as  has  the  **  Mormon  "  chnrch. 
The  illastrations  are  mainly  intended  to  show  some  of  the  ''enterprises/'  inbnildinff  np 
which  the  Church  has  t^keu  an  active  part. 


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240  OUT    WEST 

as  subsidiaries,  are  fulminated  and  sent  broadcast,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  poisoning  the  public  mind  against  the  "Mormon"  com- 
munity. 

That  these  false  and  foolish  stories  will  be  believed  by  many, 
whether  disputed  or  not,  is  perhaps  inevitable;  and  indeed  the 
effect  of  their  circulation  is  already  apparent  in  prejudice  and 
feelings  of  ill  will  that  have  arisen  in  the  hearts  of  men  and 
women  once  friendly,  or  at  all  events  charitable  and  tolerant,  to- 
wards our  people. 

It  is  marvelous  to  me,  not  that  the  "Mormons"  can  be  lied 
about — for  I  have  been  used  to  that  all  the  days  of  my  life — 
but  that  the  atrocious  and  often  absurd  calumnies  manufactured 
concerning  them  can  be  so  easily  swallowed  and  assimilated  by 
the  sober,  sensible,  discriminating,  and  usually  fair-minded 
American  people;  a  people  sprung  for  the  most  part  from  the 
sturdy  Anglo-Saxon  race,  from  the  cool-headed,  well-poised, 
steady-going  northern  nations ;  a  people  whose  mission  and  des- 
tiny are  to  prevent  injustice,  put  down  wrong,  exalt  truth,  defend 
the  weak,  stand  by  the  right,  and  hold  things  level,  wherever 
their  power  and  influence  extend.  That  a  nation  formed  from 
such  elements  can  be  lashed  periodically  into  a  frenzy  of  hatred 
against  a  peaceable,  patriotic,  and  well-meaning  body  of  their  fel- 
low citizens,  and  this  at  the  mere  dictum  or  instigation  of  some 
ribald  newspaper,  some  characterless  demagogue,  intent  only 
upon  feathering  his  foul  nest,  or  feeding  fat  his  selfish  grudges, 
regardless  of  truth,  consistency,  or  any  other  consideration — this 
to  me  is  a  matter  of  astonishment. 

I  would  expect  such  things  in  some  parts  of  Europe — say  from 
the  mobs  of  Paris,  from  the  blood-thirsty  "Commune,"  that  por- 
tion of  the  excitable  Gallic  nation  graphically  described  as  "the 
red  fool-fury  of  the  Seine."  I  would  accept  such  incidents  as 
commonplaces  among  savages  and  barbarians.  But  I  cannot 
reconcile  them  with  my  early  teachings  and  traditions,  my  high 
conceptions  of  the  innate  chivalry,  generosity,  and  sound  com- 
mon sense  of  my  American  countrymen. 

And  I  see  in  these  things  a  menace,  not  only  to  the  unpopular 
"Mormons,"  the  present  victims  of  this  reckless,  mobocratic 
tendency;  but  to  the  whole  American  people,  our  glorious  na- 
tion at  large.  This  spirit  of  falsehood  and  intolerance — an  ema- 
nation from  the  bottomless  pit,  a  miasma  from  Hades,  from  the 
abode  of  the  infernal  gods,  bent  upon  "making  mad"  those 
whom  they  would  "destroy" — this  spirit  of  injustice  and  perse- 
cution, so  opposite  and  antagonistic  to  the  true  genius  of  Amer- 
icanism, will  not  focus  its  malevolence  upon  the  Latter-day 
Saints  alone.    It  will  attack  in  time  every  sect,  creed,  party  and 


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THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMON  ISM  241 

organization  that  stands  for  peace,  order  and  good  government ; 
and,  if  not  checked,  will  uproot,  overthrow,  destroy  and  sweep 
them  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  It  is  the  spirit  of  anarchy,  of 
murder  and  spoliation.  These  are  its  ultimate  aims,  whether 
recognized  or  not  by  those  foolish  enough  to  follow  its  lead  and 
do  its  dire  bidding.  Religious  rancor  and  political  chicanery  are 
its  right  and  left  hands;  "yellow  journalism"  its  banner,  trumpet 
and  drum;  more  blatant  and  more  bigoted  than  any  Peter  the 
Hermit,  working  up  a  "holy  crusade."  Both  these  mischievous 
agencies  are  at  work,  consciously  or  unconsciously  preparing 
the  way  before  a  national,  perhaps  a  world-wide  catastrophe, 


THE  TABBKNACLB 


that  will  inevitably  follow  a  continuation  of  this  pernicious  and 
persecuting  course. 

Having  said  this  much,  Mr.  Editor — and  I  would  not  feel  sat- 
isfied to  say  less — I  wish  to  thank  you,  a  real  American,  one  of 
the  upright,  uncringing  men  of  the  West,  for  the  privilege  ac- 
corded me  by  your  request,  of  making,  through  the  columns  of 
your  fair  and  fearless  magazine,  a  plain  and  truthful  statement 
concerning  "Mormonism,"  having  special  reference  to  the  false 
charges  that  are  now  being  hurled  against  its  leading  repre- 
sentatives. 

I  shall  not  deny  that  "Mormonism"  has  a  commercial  or  ma- 
terial side.    I  admit  that  to  begin  with.    But  I  propose  to  show 


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242  OUT    WEST 

that  this  is  not  the  only  side,  nor  by  any  means  the  largest  and 
most  important  feature  of  the  system.  And  I  shall  further  prove 
that  "Mormonism"  from  the  first  has  avowed  and  presented  to 
the  world  this  particular  phase  of  its  many-sided  self;  that  it 
is  no  new  development,  due  to  a  sudden  change  of  policy,  some 
selfish,  sinister  purpose  on  the  part  of  the  present  leaders,  as 
some  people  pretend  to  believe.  All  such  allegations  are  the 
veriest  trash,  the  flimsiest  of  fabrications,  susceptible  of  the 
easiest  disproof.  They  have  not  even  the  merit  of  honest  ig- 
norance in  their  favor,  so  far  as  the  authors  are  concerned.  They 
are  grounded  in  sheer  malice  and  hypocrisy.  Some  of  those  who 
repeat  them,  parrot-like,  may  be  sincere ;  but  those  who  uttered 
them  in  the  first  place,  and  are  still  sending  them  forth  and  de- 
ceiving others,  know  full  well  that  they  lie. 

I  need  not  inform  any  reasonable  Latter-day  Saint — for  to  my 
own  people  as  well  as  to  the  public  at  large,  this  article  will 
come — that  the  temporal  part  of  the  Church  of  Christ  is  essential 
to  its  existence  in  this  material  world;  almost  as  essential  as 
the  spiritual  part,  which  of  course  comes  first,  and  is  absolutely 
indispensable.  No  sacred  system  of  government,  having  in  view 
the  salvation  of  the  bodies  as  well  as  the  spirits  of  men,  can 
successfully  accomplish  its  mission  without  being  temporal  as 
well  as  spiritual  in  character.  It  was  the  doctrine  of  Joseph 
Smith,  the  original  revelator  of  "Mormonism,"  that  the  spirit 
and  the  body  constitute  the  soul  of  man.  It  has  always  been  a 
cardinal  teaching  with  the  Latter-day  Saints,  that  a  religion 
which  has  not  the  power  to  save  people  temporally  and  make 
them  prosperous  and  happy  here,  cannot  be  depended  upon  to 
save  them  spiritually,  to  exalt  them  in  the  life  to  come. 

A  duality  in  the  government  of  the  Church  is  plainly  apparent 
from  the  fact  that  there  are  two  priesthoods  therein,  namely,  the 
Aaronic  and  the  Melchisedek ;  the  former  officiating  in  temporal 
things,  and  the  latter  in  spiritual  things,  which,  however,  in- 
clude the  temporal.  Our  entire  ecclesiastical  polity  is  in  and 
under  these  two  priesthoods,  which  correspond  to  the  duality  of 
the  soul.  Paul,  the  apostle,  compared  the  Church  of  Christ  to 
the  perfect  body  of  a  man,  including,  of  course,  the  animating 
spirit,  without  which  the  body  would  be  dead.  Joseph  Smith, 
who  proclaimed  the  restoration  of  the  ancient  Church,  Priesthood 
and  Gospel,  emphasized  and  amplified  Paul's  doctrine. 

It  is  well  understood  in  our  Church  that  those  holding  the 
Aaronic  Priesthood  have  authority  to  officiate  only  in  outward 
ordinances.  By  virtue  of  this  Priesthood,  faith  and  repentance 
may  be  preached,  and  baptism  by  immersion  (in  the  temporal 
element  of  water)  administered.    But  it  requires  the  imposition 


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THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMONISM  243 

of  hands  by  those  holding  the  higher  or  Melchisedek  Priest- 
hood, to  bestow  the  Holy  Ghost  and  induct  the  convert  into 
the  spiritual  concerns  of  the  kingdom.  All  the  officers  of  the 
Church,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  bear  one  or  the  other  of 
these  two  priesthoods.  Ascending  the  scale  of  authority,  the 
titles  and  callings  of  Deacon,  Teacher,  Priest  and  Bishop  come 
within  the  purview  of  the  Aaronic  Priesthood;  while  those  of 
Elder,  Seventy,  High  Priest,  Patriarch,  Apostle  and  President 
are  offices  and  callings  in  the  Melchisedek  Priesthood,  to  which 
the  Aaronic  Priesthood  is  an  appendage.  A  full  equipment  is 
thus  shown  for  the  government  and  conduct  of  the  Church  both 
spiritually  and  temporally. 


BBB  HIVR  HOnSR  AND  LION  HOUSE 

Official  Residence  and  Office  of  tlie  President  of  the  Cliurcb 

According  to  Joseph  the  Prophet,  who  claimed  to  have  re- 
ceived these  Priesthoods  through  angelic  ministrations,  the 
time  of  their  restoration  was  several  months  before  the  organ- 
ization of  the  Church.  The  Aaronic  Priesthood  came  first,  being 
conferred  by  John  the  Baptist  upon  Joseph  Smith  and  Oliver 
Cowdery,  May  15,  1829.  The  Melchisedek  Priesthood  came 
soon  after,  when  they  were  ordained  under  the  hands  of  Apostles 
Peter,  James  and  John.  By  virtue  of  the  sacred  keys  thus  given, 
the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-day  Saints  was  organized 
at  Fayette,  Seneca  county.  New  York,  on  the  6th  day  of  April, 
1830.  The  Book  of  Mormon  had  been  previously  translated  and 
published,  and  its  doctrines,  identical  with  those  of  the  New 

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244  OUT    WBST 

Testament,  were  preached  by  Joseph  Smith  and  his  associates 
in  Western  New  York  and  Northern  Pennsylvania.  In  that  re- 
gion several  hundred  converts  were  made  before  the  removal  of 
the  Church  to  Kirtland,  Ohio,  in  February,  1831. 

One  of  the  first  steps  taken  by  the  Prophet,  after  the  estab- 
lishment of  headquarters  at  Kirtland,  was  the  institution  of 
what  Latter-day  Saints  call  the  "United  Order,"  a  religio-social 
system,  communal  in  its  character,  designed  to  abolish  poverty, 
monopoly,  and  kindred  evils,  and  to  bring  about  unity  and  equal- 
ity in  temporal  and  spiritual  things.  It  required  the  consecra- 
tion to  the  Church,  by  its  members,  of  all  their  properties,  and 
the  subsequent  distribution  to  those  members,  by  the  Church,  of 
what  were  termed  "stewardships."  Each  holder  of  a  steward- 
ship—which might  be  the  same  farm,  workshop,  store,  or  fac- 
tory that  this  same  person  had  "consecrated" — was  expected  to 
manage  it  thereafter  in  the  interest  of  the  whole  community; 
all  his  gains  reverting  to  a  common  fund,  from  which  he  would 
derive  a  sufficient  support  for  himself  and  those  dependent  upon 
him.  The  Bishops,  being  the  temporal  officers  of  the  Church, 
received  the  consecration  of  those  properties,  and  also  as- 
signed the  stewardships;  but  they  performed  their  duties  under 
the  direction  of  the  First  Presidency,  who  hold  the  keys  of  the 
Melchisedek  Priesthood,  to  which  the  Aaronic  or  Lesser  Priest- 
hood is  subject.  Each  Bishop,  I  will  remark,  has  two  Counselors 
to  assist  him,  these  three  forming  a  Bishopric;  and  the  Presi- 
dent over  the  entire  Church  also  has  two  Counselors,  they  with 
him  constituting  the  First  Presidency. 

The  United  Order,  the  Prophet  declared,  was  the  same  ancient 
system  that  sanctified  the  City  of  Enoch ;  the  same  also  that  the 
Apostles  set  up  at  Jerusalem  (Acts  4:32-35);  and  that  the  Ne- 
phites  instituted  upon  this  land,  according  to  the  Book  of  Mor- 
mon (IV  Nephi  1 :3).  The  purpose  in  view,  by  the  Latter-day 
Saints,  was  the  building  up  of  Zion,  the  New  Jerusalem;  an 
event  to  be  preceded  by  the  gathering  of  scattered  Israel,  and 
preparatory  to  the  second  coming  of  the  Saviour  and  the  advent 
of  the  Millennium. 

I  need  not  weary  the  reader  with  a  recital  of  details  as  to  how 
the  Church  grew  and  prospered  along  the  lines  laid  down  by  the 
United  Order,  which  was  established  at  Kirtland,  Ohio,  and  at 
Independence,  Missouri,  during  the  year  1831.  Suffice  it,  that 
under  the  auspices  of  this  beneficent  system  the  Gospel  was 
preached  on  both  hemispheres  and  the  gathering  of  Latter-day 
Israel  begun.  Lands  were  purchased  in  both  the  States  named; 
and  in  Jackson  county,  Missouri,  the  foundations  of  the  City  of 
Zion  were  laid.    A  Temple  was  reared  at  Kirtland,  schools  were 


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THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMONISM  245 

opened,  mercantile  and  publishing  houses  instituted,  and  in- 
dustrial enterprises  of  various  kinds  conducted  by  the  Church; 
the  object  being  to  build  up  Zion  spiritually  and  temporally, 
and  prepare  for  the  literal  coming  of  the  King  of  Kings  to  reign 
upon  the  earth  a  thousand  years.  In  this  cause,  the  Apostles 
as  well  as  the  Bishops  performed  a  variety  of  labors,  not  only 
preaching  the  Gospel  and  administering  its  sacred  ordinances, 
but  also  traveling  to  collect  money  and  other  means  for  the 
erection  of  the  Kirtland  Temple  and  the  purchase  of  lands  in 
Missouri. 
The  United  Order  was  not  perpetuated  at  that  time,  and  the 


SALT  LAKE  THEATRE,  BUILT  BV  PRESIDENT  BRIOHAM  YOUNG 

reason  was  two-fold.  Primarily  it  was  due  to  the  innate  selt- 
ishness  of  human  nature,  which  prevented  the  Saints,  as  a  whole, 
from  entering  into  the  work  of  "redeeming  Zion"  with  suffi- 
cient zeal  and  singleness  of  purpose.  But  another  cause,  equally 
cogent,  was  the  cruel  mobbings  and  drivings  of  our  people,  by 
those  who  did  not  comprehend  their  real  motives,  or  maliciously 
made  evil  out  of  their  pure  and  philanthropic  designs.  The 
"Mormon"  colony  which  settled  in  Jackson  county,  Missouri, 
was  violently  expelled  from  that  part  in  the  autumn  of  1833;  and 
in  1837-39  the  main  body  of  the  Church  was  compelled  to  leave 
Ohio,  and  migrated  to  Missouri. 

It  was  at  Far  West,  Caldwell  county,  Missouri,  that  the  law 
of  tithing  was  instituted,  concerning  which  so  much  is  now 


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246  OUT    WEST 

being  said.  The  tithing  system  of  the  Church  did  not  do  away 
with  the  United  Order,  the  practice  of  which,  though  discon- 
tinued during  that  period,  is  still  contemplated  as  an  event  of 
the  future.  But  the  law  of  tithing  (like  the  law  of  Moses,  in 
its  relation  to  the  Gospel  of  Christ)  was  to  be  observed  and 
obeyed  pending  the  final  establishment  of  the  more  perfect  sys- 
tem.   Here  is  the  full  text  of  the  law : 

Revelation  given  through  Joseph,  the  Prophet,  at  Far  West,  Missouri. 
July  8th,  1838,  in  answer  to  the  question,  "O  Lord,  show  unto  thy  servants 
how  much  thou  requirest  of  the  properties  of  the  people  for  a  tithing?" 

Verily,  thus  saith  the  Lord,  I  require  all  their  surplus  property  to  be 
put  into  the  hands  of  the  Bishop  of  my  Church  of  Zion. 

For  the  building  of  mine  house,  and  for  the  laying  of  the  foundation  of 
Zion  and  for  the  Priesthood,  and  for  the  debts  of  the  Presidency  of  my 
Church ; 

And  this  shall  be  the  beginning  of  the  tithing  of  my  people ; 


LATTER   DAY  SAINTS  UNIVERSITY  BUILDINGS 

And  after  that,  those  who  have  thus  been  lithed,  shall  pay  one-tenth  oi 
all  their  interest  annually;  and  this  shall  be  a  standing  law  unto  them  forever, 
for  my  holy  Priesthood,  saith  the  Lord. 

Verily  I  say  unto  you,  it  shall  come  to  pass,  that  all  those  who  gather  unto 
the  land  of  Zion  shall  be  tithed  of  their  surplus  properties,  and  shall  observe 
this  law,  or  they  shall  not  be  found  worthy  to  abide  among  you. 

And  I  say  unto  you,  if  my  people  observe  not  this  law,  to  keep  it  holy, 
and  by  this  sanctify  the  land  of  Zion  unto  me,  that  my  statutes  and  my 
judgements  may  be  kept  thereon,  that  it  may  be  most  holy,  behold,  verilv 
I  say  unto  you,  it  shall  not  be  a  land  of  Zion  unto  you. 

And  this  shall  be  an  ensamplc  unto  all  the  Stakes  of  Zion.     Even  so.  Amen. 

The  Stakes  of  Zion,  I  will  explain,  are  those  gathering  places 
of  the  Saints  that  are  outside  of  Zion  proper — Jackson  county, 
Missouri,  where  the  holy  city  it  is  believed  will  yet  be  built. 
For  instance,  Kirtland  was  a  Stake  of  Zion,  as  was  also  Nauvoo, 
Illinois.  Where,  early  in  1839,  the  Saints,  after  their  barbarous 
midwinter  expulsion  from  the  State  of  Missouri,  under  the  ex- 


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MBMOKIAL  STATUE  OP  BRIGHAM   YOUNG,  FOUNDER   AND  BUILDER 
OF  THE  COMMONWEALTH   OF  UTAH 


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248  OUT    WEST 

terminating  order  of  Governor  Lilburn  W.  Boggs,  next  estab- 
lished their  headquarters. 

In  Illinois,  the  same  methods  and  policy  were  pursued  for  the 
upbuilding  and  maintenance  of  the  Church,  and  the  prosecution 
of  the  sacred  labor  devolving  upon  it,  as  those  previously 
adopted  and  followed;  and  this  under  the  personal  supervision 
and  direction  of  the  Prophet,  its  first  President.  The  law  of 
tithing  continued  in  force,  and  the  revenues  of  the  Church,  thus 
obtained,  were  used  in  a  variety  of  ways  for  the  advancement 
of  the  general  cause.  "The  gathering"  also  went  on,  not  only 
from  the  various  States  of  the  Union,  but  from  Canada  and 
Great  Britain.     Mormonism's  first  foreign  mission  was  opened 


WOOLBN   MILLS  AT  PROVO,  UTAH 


at  Preston,  England,  in  1837,  and  the  foundations  of  the  mission 
were  broadened  and  strengthened  in  1840-41.  This  work  was 
done  by  the  Council  of  the  Twelve  Apostles — the  second  quorum 
in  authority  in  the  Church — acting  under  the  direction  of  the 
First  Presidency  in  America.  A  Church  paper  was  founded  at 
Manchester  and  a  new  edition  of  the  Book  of  Mormon  printed, 
with  means  contributed  by  the  Saints  of  the  British  Mission.  A 
permanent  emigration  agency  (now  at  Liverpool)  was  estab- 
lished, and  this  has  conducted  annually  across  the  Atlantic  thou- 
sands upon  thousands  of  Church  members.  Many  other  similar 
works  were  done  by  the  Apostles  while  upon  that  mission.  At 
Nauvoo  a  Temple  was  built  and  a  university  chartered ;  papers 
were    published,    mercantile    and    industrial    enterprises    were 


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THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMONISM  249 

founded  wherever  necessary,  and  all  kinds  of  legitimate  busi- 
ness, essential  to  the  work  in  hand,  carried  on  by  the  Church 
under  the  express  sanction  and  direction  of  its  spiritual  and 
temporal  head.  The  Prophet  even  laid  out  cities,  and  in  this  he 
was  assisted  by  the  Apostles,  who  as  well  as  the  Bishops  were 
active  in  settling  in  these  places  the  newly  arrived  immigrants 
from  abroad. 

Joseph  Smith,  with  his  brother  Hyrum,  the  Patriarch  of  the 
Church,  was  murdered  by  a  mob,  in  Carthage  jail,  Illinois,  June 
27,  1844.  His  death  dissolved  the  First  Presidency,  and  the  suc- 
cession fell  upon  the  Council  of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  with 
President  Brigham  Young  at  its  head.    He  conducted  the  "Mor- 


UTAH  SUGAK  COMPANY'S  MILLS  AT  LBHI,  UTAH 

mon*'  exodus  from  Illinois.  Leaving  Nauvoo  in  February,  1846, 
he  led  the  first  companies  of  the  migrating  Saints  to  the  Mis- 
souri River,  and,  after  the  enlistment  of  the  "Mormon"  Bat- 
talion, which  aided  the  United  States  in  its  war  with  Mexico, 
he  headed  the  pioneer  movement  which  in  July,  1847,  pene- 
trated to  the  heart  of  the  "Great  American  Desert,"  and  se- 
lected Salt  Lake  Valley  and  the  surrounding  region  as  the 
future  home  of  the  "Mormon"  people. 

Brigham  Young  succeeded  to  the  sacred  powers  and  presi- 
dential position  held  by  Joseph  Smith.  Choosing  two  counsel- 
ors, he  re-organized  the  First  Presidency,  filled  the  vacancies 
thus  occasioned  in  the  quorum  of  the  Twelve,  and  otherwise  set 
the  Church  in  order  in  its  new  gathering  place.    In  all  the  won- 


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250  OUT    WEST 

drous  work  performed  by  that  truly  remarkable  man — the  recla- 
mation of  the  desert,  the  continuation  of  "the  gathering,"  the  es- 
tablishment  of  numerous  Stakes  of  Zion,  and  incidentally  the 
founding  of  the  commonwealth  of  Utah — he  but  carried  out  the 
policy  and  fulfilled  the  predictions  of  his  yet  more  remarkable 
predecessor.  President  Young's  proudest  boast — figuratively 
speaking,  for  he  was  not  a  man  who  boasted — was  that  he  was 
Joseph  Smith's  Apostle,  and  was  building  upon  the  foundation 
that  he  had  laid.  Joseph  prophesied,  years  before  his  death,  that 
the  Saints  would  be  driven  westward,  and  would  "become  a 
mighty  people  in  the  midst  of  the  Rocky  Mountains;'*  here  to 
remain,  growing  in  numbers,  increasing  in  wealth  and  influence, 
and  otherwise  preparing  for  the  eventual  return  to  Jackson 
county.  Brigham  Young  inherited  this  work  from  its  inspired 
originator,  Joseph  Smith,  and  the  work,  it  is  needless  to  say,  was 
well  and  faithfully  done.  It  was  a  spiritual  and  a  temporal  work, 
having  in  view,  not  the  aggrandizement  of  self,  not  the  creation 
of  privileged  classes  and  the  oppression  of  the  toiling  masses, 
but  the  glory  of  God,  the  redemption  of  Zion,  and  the  prosperity 
pnd  happiness  of  all  mankind. 

Under  President  Young's  wise  and  able  administration,  the 
savage  tribes  were  won  over  and  made  peaceable ;  colonies  were 
sent  out  in  all  directions ;  cities,  towns  and  villages  laid  out 
and  peopled;  irrigation  introduced,  arid  lands  redeemed,  mills, 
factories  and  mercantile  houses  established,  and  the  whole  land 
made  to  hum  as  a  veritable  hive  of  industry.  Missionaries  went 
forth,  new  missions  were  opened  in  various  parts  of  the  world, 
and  five  hundred  Church  teams  were  annually  sent  to  the 
frontier  to  bring  in  the  immigration.  Special  features  of  Presi- 
dent Young's  industrial  work  were  the  mining  and  manufac- 
turing of  iron,  and  the  manufacture  of  nails ;  also  the  raising  of 
cotton  in  Southern  Utah,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War,  and 
the  building  of  a  cotton  factory  in  that  section.  He  likewise 
founded  woolen  mills,  some  of  which  are  still  in  existence.  He 
even  attempted  the  manufacture  of  beet  sugar,  the  pioneer  mill 
at  Sugar  House  Ward,  in  the  suburbs  of  Salt  Lake  City,  being 
the  forerunner  of  the  present  flourishing  factories  of  the  Utah 
and  Idaho  sugar  companies. 

But  Brigham  Young  did  not  believe  in  all  work  and  no  play. 
While  his  tireless  brain  and  potent  hand  were  busy  laying  broad 
and  deep  the  foundations  of  Utah's  prosperity  and  greatness, 
he  also  bore  in  mind  the  necessity  for  pure  and  wholesome 
amusement  and  recreation.  As  early  as  1862  he  built  the  Salt 
Lake  Theatre,  as  he  had  previously  built  the  Social  Hall  and  the 
"Old  Bowery,"  our  earliest  homes  of  the  drama;  and  he  exer- 
cised ceaseless  watchcare  over  the  morals  and  manners  of  those 
who  frequented  as  auditors,  or  appeared  as  performers,  at  these 
popular  places  of  amusement.  The  erection  of  the  Saltair  Pa- 
vilion— Utah's  great  bathing  resort — in  after  years,  was  simply 
a  continuation  of  the  policy  inaugurated  by  President  Young 
relative  to  public  means  of  recreation,  and  it  was  undertaken  in 
the  same  spirit  that  he  manifested,  and  for  the  same  purpose 
at  which  he  aimed. 

In  all  the  useful  and  philanthropic  enterprises  thus  enum^r- 


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THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMONISM  251 

ated,  and  in  many  more  that  cannot  now  be  named,  it  was  virtu- 
ally the  Church  that  took  the  lead ;  for  Brigham  Young,  as  Pres- 
ident and  Trustee-in-Trust,  acted  as  the  agent  of  tht,  Church  in 
investing  its  means  and  manipulating  its  revenues.  In  this  ca- 
pacity he  built  the  Deseret  Telegraph  line,  entirely  with  home 
capital  and  home  labor,  only  a  few  years  after  the  original 
telegraph  line  crossed  the  continent,  and  before  the  advent  of 
the  railroad.  He  and  other  leading  ''Mormons"  helped  to  con- 
struct the  Union  Pacific  and  Central  Pacific  railroads,  which  on 
May  10,  1869,  made  Promontory,  Utah,  their  place  of  meeting  and 
welding  point  between  East  and  West.  About  this  time  also  he 
took  the  initiative  in  organizing  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile 
Institution,  a  mammoth  concern  designed  to  unify  "Mormon** 
commercial  interests  in  the  face  of  impending  fierce  competi- 


DK.  GROVB^S  LATTBR  DAY  SAINTS   HOSPITAL,  SALT  LAKE  CITY 

tion  from  the  outside,  resulting  from  the  coming  of  the  railroad. 
He  even  attempted  to  re-establish  the  United  Order,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  part;  though  his  greatest  success  in  that  direction  was 
limited  to  the  mighty  Co-operative  movement  of  which  he  was 
the  chief  instigator  and  promoter. 

A  word  in  passing,  as  to  the  origin  and  nature  of  the  office  of 
Trustee-in-Trust,  which  was  first  held  by  the  Prophet  Joseph 
Smith.  It  originated  while  the  Church  was  in  Illinois,  and  was 
in  conformity  with  the  laws  of  that  State,  which  required  each 
religious  body  to  have  a  financial  agent  to  act  for  it  and  to  hold 
the  legal  title  to  its  property.  From  the  days  of  the  Prophet 
Joseph  Smith  down  to  the  present,  the  head  of  the  Church  or  one 
of  the  General  Authorities,  has  been  chosen  and  sustained  by  the 
members,  in  their  general  annual  and  semi-annual  conferences,  as 
"Trustee-in-Trust  for  the  body  of  religious  worshipers  known 
as  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-day  Saints." 

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252  OUT    WEST 

Brigham  Young  died  August  29,  1877,  and  John  Taylor,  the 
senior  of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  became  his  successor  as  Presi- 
dent of  the  Church.  He  chose  as  his  two  counselors  George  Q. 
Cannon  and  Joseph  F.  Smith,  and  these  three,  as  the  First  Pres- 
idency from  1880  to  1887,  inherited  the  powers  and  continued  the 
policy  of  those  who  had  preceded  them.  It  was  during  President 
Taylor's  administration — an  anti-polygamy  crusade  having  been 
instituted  under  the  Edmunds  law  and  the  Edmunds-Tucker 
statute — that  the  "Mormon"  public  property  was  confiscated  by 
the  Federal  Government.  The  greater  part  of  it  was  subse- 
quently returned,  but  the  finances  of  the  Church  were  seriously 
disordered  by  those  proceedings.  President  Taylor  died  in  July, 
1887,  and  was  succeeded  by  President  Wilford  Woodruff,  who 
chose  as  his  counselors  those  of  his  predecessor. 

It  was  during  President  Woodruff's  administration  that  the 
Pioneer  Electric  Power  Company  was  established,  a  proposition 
involving  several  millions  of  dollars,  and  in  which  the  Church 
became  largely  interested,  mainly  through  the  influence  of  Pres- 
ident George  Q.  Cannon  and  his  son,  Frank  J.  Cannon,  the  pres- 
ent editor  of  the  Salt  Lake  Tribune.  The  Pioneer  Electric  Power 
Company  was  the  forerunner  of  the  present  Utah  Light  and  Rail- 
way Company. 

President  Woodruff,  at  his  death  in  1898,  was  succeeded  by 
President  Lorenzo  Snow,  who  also  chose  George  Q.  Cannon  and 
Joseph  F.  Smith  as  his  counselors.  President  Snow's  adminis- 
tration was  rendered  notable  by  a  revival  in  the  observance  of 
the  much-mooted  law  of  tithing.  For  years  the  hands  of  the 
Trustee-in-Trust  had  been  tied,  so  to  speak,  and  the  Church 
crippled  financially,  not  so  much  by  the  confiscation  of  its  prop- 
erty, as  by  the  failure  of  many  of  its  members  to  pay  their  tith- 
ing; they  fearing  further  confiscations  and  escheatments  under 
the  laws  of  Congress.  President  Snow,  at  the  beginning  of  his 
administration,  began  a  zealous  and  strenuous  preaching  of  the 
law  of  tithing,  and  in  this  movement  he  was  loyally  seconded 
and  supported  by  his  counselors  and  the  priesthood  generally. 
The  result  was  a  great  reform  in  the  direction  of  tithe-paying, 
and  a  consequent  improvement  in  the  financial  condition  of  tTie 
Church.  This  presidency  continued  until  the  death  of  President 
Cannon  in  1901,  when  Joseph  F.  Smith  succeeded  him  as  First 
Counselor  to  President  Snow,  who  died  in  October  of  the  same 
year.  Then  it  was  that  Joseph  F.  Smith  became  President,  with 
John  R.  Winder  and  Anthon  H.  Lund  as  his  counselors. 

Up  to  the  ingoing  of  the  present  administration,  while  much 
had  been  said  about  polygamy,  church-and-state,  and  the  com- 
mercial and  material  phases  of  "Mormonism,"  no  one  had  the 
temerity  to  assert  or  even  intimate  that  the  policy  and  pro- 
cedure of  the  Church  leaders  were  at  all  at  variance  with  those 
of  their  predecessors.  It  remained  for  the  Salt  Lake  Tribune, 
edited  by  the  aforesaid  Frank  J.  Cannon,  "Mormon"  apostate 
and  broken-down  politician,  in  the  employ  of  ex-Senator  Thomas 
Kearns,  another  disgruntled  office-seeker,  to  invent  this  false 
charge  and  hurl  it  at  the  heads  of  the  church.  Disappointed  in 
their  plans  for  re-election,  and  unable  to  secure  for  the  further- 
ance of  their  financial  and  political  schemes  the  "Church  influ- 


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THE  TRUTH  ABOUT  MORMONISM  253 

ence,"  of  which  they  now  prate,  they  seek  revenge  by  endeavor- 
ing to  blacken  the  characters  and  lessen  the  influence  of  the 
"Mormon"  leaders.  These  two  men,  Kearns  and  Cannon,  are 
the  principal  figures  in  the  self-styled  "American  party."  Their 
religious  coadjutors  are  the  members  of  the  Protestant  Minis- 
terial Association  of  Salt  Lake  City,  a  little  clique  of  un-Chris- 
tian  ministers,  who  spend  one  day  in  seven  preaching  the  Ten 
Commandments  and  the  Golden  Rule,  and  the  remaining  six 
in  bearing  false  witness  against  their  neighbors  and  stirring  up 
strife  and  hatred  against  them.  When  not  engaged  in  getting 
up  "anti-Mormon"  petitions  to  Congress,  or  lobbying  in  the  in- 
terest of  partisan  legislation,  they  may  be  found  any  day  at  the 
old  stand,  denouncing  "union  of  church  and  state"  and  proclaim- 
ing against  "priestly  interference  in  politics."  The  summoning 
of  several  prominent  "Mormons,"  myself  included,  before  the 
Smoot  investigation  committee  at  Washington,  where  it  was 
shown  that  the  Church  was  to  some  extent  interested  in  various 
secular  enterprises,  and  that  its  President  was  an  officer  in  them, 
gave  these  political  and  religious  crusaders  their  opportunity; 
and  that  they  have  made  the  most  of  it,  the  unblushing  eflFront- 
ery  and  ribald  mendacity  of  their  operations  bear  ample  and 
daily  witness. 

It  is  true  the  present  Truslee-in-Trust  is  prominent  in  various 
business  concerns  that  have  done  much  and  are  destined  to  do 
more  in  the  development  of  the  material  resources  of  Utah  and 
the  West;  but  it  is  also  true  that  many  of  the  offices  held  by  him 
in  those  concerns — mainly  directorships — have  descended  to  him 
from  former  incumbents  of  his  position;  a  fact  which  his  ene- 
mies, in  all  their  unwarranted  strictures  upon  his  course,  keep 
carefully  out  of  sight.  It  is  true  that  the  Church,  whose  main 
support  is  the  tithes  of  its  members,  has  from  time  to  time 
placed  means  where  they  would  be  likely  to  do  the  most  good, 
for  itself  and  for  the  community  at  large ;  and  as  a  result  it  has 
paid  off  many  of  its  debts  and  its  credit  today  is  sound  and  un- 
impaired. But  it  is  not  true  that  the  Church  has  been  "commer- 
cialized" by  its  leaders,  or  that  there  has  been  any  radical  change 
of  policy  in  the  financial  conduct  of  the  authorities,  in  the  course 
pursued  by  them,  spiritually  or  temporally,  since  the  days  of 
Lorenzo  Snow,  Wilford  WoodruflF,  John  Taylor,  Brigham  Young 
and  Joseph  Smith. 

I  denounce  as  an  infamous  falsehood  the  allegation  that  the 
tithing  system  of  the  Latter-day  Saints  is  a  system  of  robbery, 
tyranny  and  extortion,  as  these  wretched  libelers  continually 
declare.  The  tithing  of  the  Church,  which  I  have  shown  to  be 
a  tenth  of  the  annual  increase  of  its  members,  is  purely  a  volun- 
tary oflFering,  willingly  and  cheerfully  made  by  them  in  obedi- 
ence to  what  they  hold  to  be  a  law  of  God.  The  leaders  pay 
tithing  as  well  as  the  people.  There  is  no  element  of  extortion 
in  it,  and  no  shadow  of  oppression  hangs  over  it.  On  the  con- 
trary, the  tithes  of  the  Saints  have  been  used  largely,  from  the 
very  beginning,  for  the  support  of  the  poor,  the  relief  of  the  sick 
and  afflicted,  the  care  of  the  widow  and  the  orphan.  Other  pur- 
poses for  which  these  funds  have  been  expended  are  the  building 
of  temples  and  houses  of  worship,  the  emigration  of  the  poor,  the 


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254  OUT    WEST 

founding  of  hospitals  and  other  benevolent  institutions,  and  the 
maintenance  of  Church  schools  throughout  the  Stakes  of  Zion, 
now  reaching  from  Canada  to  Mexico.  The  outside  missions 
have  also  been  aided  in  various  ways. 

The  priesthood  of  the  Church,  though  possessing  a  legitimate 
claim  upon  the  revenues — as  the  revelation  on  tithing  plainly 
shows — have  never  pressed  that  claim,  but  have  preferred  to 
earn  their  own  living  and  support  their  families  by  private  laboi , 
while  giving  their  services  gratuitously  to  the  cause.  Ours  is 
not  a  salaried  priesthood,  and  never  has  been ;  even  our  foreign 
missionaries  usually  travel  "without  purse  or  script."  Only  those 
who  give  their  entire  time  to  the  Church,  and  have  no  other  in- 
come, receive  regular  assistance  from  its  coffers ;  and  even  this 
is  limited  to  the  actual  needs  of  such  workers  and  their  families. 
The  princely  salaries  paid  to  high  civic  officers,  railroad  mag- 
nates, insurance  managers,  and  leading  men  of  affairs  through- 
out the  country,  are  utterly  unknown  among  the  Latter-day 
Saints.  I  do  not  exaggerate  when  I  say,  without  fear  of  suc- 
cessful contradiction,  that  our  leading  men,  Presidents,  Apostles 
and  Bishops,  who  from  the  first  have  given  their  lives  and  labors 
in  this  cause,  had  they  employed  their  time  and  talents  in  other 
pursuits,  and  sought  their  own  aggrandizement,  would  have  been 
able  to  command,  as  their  reasonable  compensation,  many  times 
the  amount  they  have  received  from  the  Church  for  their  simple 
support  while  devoting  themselves  unselfishly  to  its  interests. 

All  this  talk  about  a  "heartless  hierarchy,"  "grinding  the  faces 
of  the  poor,"  "oppressing  the  widow  and  the  orphan,"  in  order 
that  a  few  men  and  their  families  may  "revel  in  wealth,"  "prac- 
tice licentiousness,"  and  "plot  treason  against  the  government," 
is  just  so  much  humbug  and  clap-trap,  ludicrous  enough  to  be 
laughable  were  it  not  taken  seriously  by  the  uninformed  "dupes 
and  victims" — not  of  the  "Mormon"  priesthood,  but  of  their 
libelers  and  defamers.  Everybody  in  Utah  knows  this  to  be  true. 
The  reputable  Gentiles  take  no  stock  in  the  lurid  and  lugubrious 
tales  told  by  the  Salt  Lake  Tribune.  The  "Mormon"  people  are 
not  oppressed  and  down-trodden.  Neither  are  they  a  poverty- 
stricken  class,  impecunious  and  improvident.  A  greater  num- 
ber of  them  own  their  own  homes,  and  are  freer  from  debt  than 
is  the  case  with  any  other  community  in  the  United  States.  We 
have  no  paupers,  no  beggars,  no  tramps.  The  comparatively 
few  indigent  people  among  us — indigent  because  aged,  ailing,  or 
otherwise  unfortunate — are  well  cared  for  by  the  Church, 
through  a  Priesthood  perfectly  organized  and  equipped  for  all 
conditions  and  emergencies.  Everything  within  the  Church  is 
done  by  common  consent.  Priesthood  and  people  are  united, 
and  possess  each  other's  confidence.  Withal,  the  "Mormon"  peo- 
ple are  shrewd  and  sensible.  They  know  who  their  friends  are, 
and  their  eyes  are  open  to  the  trickery  and  true  inwardness  of 
those  who  profess  love  and  sympathy  for  them  in  order  to 
alienate  them  from  their  leaders.     They  have  no  use  for  hypo- 


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255 


crites,  for  the  turncoat  and  the  traitor.  And  they  will  never  be 
won  from  "Mormonism"  by  the  modern  Pharisee,  who  preaches 
truth  and  charity  while  he  practices  lying  and  persecution. 

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah 


^-^>7-^-^      A--C^-i^L^-^.^ 


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257 


FOUNDBD  1895  OFFICERS  DIRECTORS 

President,  Cbas.  F.  Lnramis.  J.  G.  Mossin. 

Vice-President,  Margaret  Collier  Graham.  Henry  W.  0*Melveny. 

Secretary,  Arthur  B.  Benton,  114  N.  Spring  St.  Snraner  P.  Hunt. 

Treasurer.  J.  G.  Mossin,  California  Bank.  Arthur  B.  Benton. 

Correspond! US'  Secretary,  Mrs.  M.  E.  Stilson,  Marsraret  Collier  Graham. 

812  Kensinarton  Road.  Chas.  P.  Lummis. 
Chairman  Membership  Committee,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Mossin,  1033Santee  St. 

Honorary  Life  Members:     R.   E^an,  Tessa  L.   Kelso. 

Life  members:  Jas.  B.  Lankershlm,  J.  Downey  Harvey,  Edward  E. 
Ayer,  •John  F.  Francis,  Mrs.  John  F.  Francis,  Mrs.  Alfred  Solano,  Mar- 
garet Collier  Graham,  Miss  Collier,  •Andrew  McNally,  Rt.  Rev.  Geo. 
Montgromery,  Miss  M.  F.  Wills,  B.  F.  Porter,  Prof.  Chas.  C.  Bragrdon,  Mrs. 
Jas.  W.  Scott,  Mrs.  Phebe  A.  Hearst,  Miss  Annie  D.  Apperson,  Miss  Agnes 
Lane,  Mrs.  M.  W.  Kincaid,  Col.  H.  G.  Otis,  H.  Jevne,  J.  R.  Newberry,  Dr. 
W.  Jarvls  Barlow,  Marlon  Brooks  Barlow,  Geo.  W.  Marston,  Chas.  L. 
Hutchinson,  U.  S.  Grant,  Jr.,  Isabel  M.  R.  Severance,  Mrs.  Louisa  C.  Ba- 
con, Miss  Susan  Bacon,  Miss  Mira  Hershey,  Jeremiah  Ahem,  William 
Marshall  Garland,  Geo.  L.  Fleltz,  Miss  Josephine  W.  Drexel,  Mrs.  Sarah 
M.  Utt,  Miss  Anita  Utt.  Emily  Runyon  Earl,  D.  M.  Rlordan,  Frank  J.  Sul- 
livan, Alice  Phelan  Sullivan,  John  Jewett  Garland,  Alfred  Solano,  P. 
Campbell  Hoyle,  Amelia  P.  Hollenbeck,  D.  Freeman,  H.  T.  Lee,  Samuel 
KIrkland  Lothrop,  Miss  Elizabeth  W.  Johnson,  Miss  Mary  Louise  Phelan, 
Mrs.  Eleanor  T.  Martin,  Frank  A.  Miller,  Mrs.  C.  F.  A.  Johnson,  W.  C. 
Patterson,  Josephine  Moir  Lee,  E.  P.  Ripley,  O.  S.  A.  Sprague,  Waller  S. 
Martin,  Chas.  P.  Bowdltch,  Henry  E.  Huntington,  Walter  Jarvls  Bar- 
low,  Jr.,   Elizabeth   C.    Daly. 

(5y  TS  decennial  year,  1905,  is  evidently  to  show  a  new  high- 
I  water  line  for  the  Landmarks  Club.  The  membership  has 
J^  increased  faster  than  in  any  other  year  (including  nine 
new  life  members  in  the  last  two  months)  ;  and  for  the  first  time 
in  its  long  endeavor  the  club  has  been  given  an  outright  gift  of 
one  of  the  historic  monuments  it  is  organized  to  preserve.  Only 
those  who  bore  the  brunt  of  the  early  endeavor,  when  the  com- 
munity was  rather  careless,  and  the  gospel  of  preserving  these 
historic  remains  had  rather  to  be  preached  with  a  club,  can  ap- 
preciate the  great  change  that  has  come  about.  Now  public  sen- 
timent has  matured  and  crystallized.  The  community  does  not 
intend  that  these  landmarks  shall  perish ;  and  the  community  has 
discovered  that  while  no  one  else  will  attend  to  the  matter,  the 
Landmarks  Club  will  and  can. 

For  obvious  business  reasons  the  chief  activities  of  the  Club 
have  been  confined  to  the  250  miles  between  Santa  Barbara  and 
San  Diego.  Protection  and  repairs  require  personal  visitation 
by  the  committee  of  experts;  and  a  hundred  miles  either  way 
from  Los  Angeles,  the  headquarters,  is  a  fair  tax  on  busy  people. 


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THE  LANDMARKS  CLUB  259 

Nevertheless  the  Landmarks  Club  feels  that  within  any  pos- 
sible limitation  it  is  in  duty  bound  to  undertake  such  work  as 
no  one  else  will  do.  Southern  California  will  not  consciously 
consent  to  the  destruction  of  any  old  mission  within  its  boun- 
daries. 

The  following  correspondence  explains  itself: 

Mr.  Chas.  F.  Lummis, 
Prest.  Landmarks  Club, 
Los  Angeles. 
Sir: — This  corporation  is  the  owner  of  the  ruins  of  La  Purisima  in  Santa 
Barbara  county,  together  with  contiguous  lands.     *    *    *     If  your  organiza- 


PURISIMA— AN  UNROOFED  ROOM         Copyright  iQ03%  by  C.  C.  Pierce  Jt  Co. 

tion  would  care  to  take  over  the  property  with  reference  to  restoring  it,  or  any 
portion  of  it,  or  using  it  in  connection  with  your  organization,  we  will  be 
very  glad  to  convey  the  fee  of  the  land  upon  which  the  ruin  stands,  and 
sufficient  grounds  about  it  to  subserve  any  purpose  for  which  it  might  be 
used.  *  ♦  *  In  the  event  you  should  care  to  take  over  this  property, 
the  tiles  would,  of  course,  go  with  it.  If  you  do  not  care  to  accept  this 
proposition  with  the  understanding  that  the  society  will  at  some  time  or 
other  preserve  the  mission  as  a  landmark,  or  use  it  for  a  commendable 
purpose,  we  shall  be  obliged  to  sell  the  tiles  rather  than  allow  them  to  be 
carried  away  promiscuously. 
An  early  reply  will  greatly  oblige, 

Yours  truly, 

Lyman   Stewart, 
Prest.  Union  Oil  Co.  of  California. 


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THE  LANDMARKS  CLUB  261 

Landmarks   Club,  Los  Angeles, 

July  26,  1905. 
Mr.  Lyman  Stewart, 

Prest.  Union  Oil  Co.  of  California, 

Los  Angeles. 

My  Dear  Sir:— The  directors  of  the  Landmarks  Club  yesterday  received, 
with  great  interest,  your  communication  of  the  15th.  By  formal  resolution 
we  have  accepted  your  proffer  and  have  pledged  the  Club  to  undertake  the 
conservation  and  repairs  of  the  mission  La  Purisima  to  the  best  of  its 
ability.  ♦  *  ♦  For  obvious  reasons  sufficient  surrounding  land  should 
be  included  so  that  the  mission  may  be  given  proper  elbow-room  and  not  be 
belittled,  when  preserved,  by  the  too  close  encroachment  of  other  structures 
of  any  sort.  Wfe  feel  sure  that  this  is  a  matter  in  which  you  will  heartily 
agree  with  us,  and  that  you  will  make  your  generous  gift  in  such  shape  that 
it  will  have  the  best  efficiency  and  most  permanent  value.  *  *  *  We  feel 
that  your  act  merits  the  gratitude  of  all  good  citizens,  and  we  undertake  to 
do  our  best  to  make  your  gift  effective  for  the  public  good  and  for  the 
longest  time  possible. 

Sincerely  yours, 

Chas  F.  Lummis, 
Prest.  Landmarks  Club. 

The  supervising  committee  on  repairs  will  visit  La  Purisima 
at  an  early  date  to  make  a  careful  inspection  as  to  its  needs; 
after  which  a  formal  plan  for  safeguarding  this  historic  monu- 
ment will  be  arranged. 

La  Purisima  Concepcion  was  the  third  "channel  mission"  (that 
is  of  the  establishments  along  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel)  and 
eleventh  in  order  among  all  the  missions  of  California.  As 
early  as  1870  it  was  decided  that  a  mission  should  be 
founded  along  the  channel  in  honor  of,  and  named  for,  the  im- 
maculate conception  of  the  Virgin  Mary;  but  there  were  many 
hindrances  in  those  early  days,  and  this  mission  was  not  founded 
until  1787.  On  December  8th  of  that  year  (the  date  of  the  Feast 
of  the  Immaculate  Conception),  Father  President  Lasuen  and 
an  escort  from  Santa  Barbara  founded  La  Purisima.  The  winter 
rains  prevented  further  activity  for  several  months,  but  in 
March,  1788,  the  escort  returned  and  erected  the  first  buildings. 
The  Indian  name  of  the  locality  was  Algsacupi.  In  April,  Father 
President  Lasuen  with  Fathers  Vicente  Fuster  and  Jose  Arroita 
consecrated  the  buildings.  By  August  of  the  same  year  Fathers 
Fuster  and  Arroita  had  gathered  seventy-nine  neophytes.  By 
the  end  of  1790  there  had  been  301  baptisms  and  the  crop  of 
grain  had  reached  1700  bushels.  It  was  a  populous  region. 
There  were  fifty  Indian  rancherias  in  the  district  of  this  mission. 
Father  Fuster  was  succeeded  in  1789  by  Father  Cristobal  Oramas 
from  Santa  Barbara.  Father  Arroita  was  here  until  1796,  a  term 
of  ten  years,  and  then  retired.  Father  Oramas  remained  until 
1792.  Successive  priests  in  charge  were  Jose  Antonio  Calzada, 
Juan  Martin,  Gregorio  Fernandez  (before  1800) ;  Mariano 
Payeras,  Gregorio  Fernandez,  Juan  Cabot,  Geronimo  Boscana, 
and  Fathers  Tapis,  Ripoll,  Ullibarri,  Sanchez,  Rodriguez,  Vitoria, 
de  la  Cuesta,  and  Moreno. 

By  1800  the  mission  had  baptized  1079  ^^^  ^^e  neophytes  num- 
bered 959 — the  largest  proportional  gain  and  the  smallest  death 
rate  in  any  of  the  California  missions.  In  1800  also,  the  cattle 
and  horses  numbered  1900;  the  sheep  and  other  stock  4,000;  the 


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THE  LANDMARKS  CLUB  263 

crops  had  reached  4,000  bushels.  The  mission  was  a  good  deal 
troubled  by  bears  and  rattlesnakes— one  neophyte  was  bitten 
by  two  snakes  in  1799. 

A  considerable  church  was  completed  here  in  1802.  In  1804 
there  were  1522  neophytes.  In  1810  the  crops  aggregated  5970 
bushels;  cattle  and  horses  numbered  10,015  (the  maximum  for 
this  mission) ;  the  sheep  and  other  small  stock  (also  maximum) 
10,042.  This  mission  was  among  the  foremost  in  California  in 
the  number  and  prosperity  of  its  live  stock. 

In  1810  Father  Payeras  made  a  faithful  report,  which  is  still 
of  record,  concerning  the  mission.  Among  other  things  we  learn 
from  this  report  that  the  catechism  had  been  translated  into  the 
native  idiom. 

December  21,  1812,  the  great  earthquake  which  affected  prac- 
tically all  the  missions  of  California,  destroyed  the  church  and 
its  buildings,  and  100  houses  of  the  neophytes.  This  catastrophe 
probably  marks  the  removal  of  the  mission  from  its  original  lo- 
cation near  the  present  town  of  Lx>mpoc,  to  the  present  locality — 
which  was  then  known  to  the  Indians  as  Amun.  The  transfer 
was  made  in  March,  1813 ;  and  the  new  church  in  the  new  loca- 
tion was  finished  in  November,  1818.  We  lack  many  particulars, 
but  it  is  of  record  that  another  new  church  was  dedicated  Octo- 
ber 4,  1825.  This  is  probably  the  identical  building  now  trans- 
ferred to  the  Landmarks  Qub.  On  the  24th  of  February,  1824, 
the  most  serious  Indian  revolt  in  the  history  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia broke  out  at  Santa  Ynez.  On  the  same  day  the  insurgent 
Indians,  under  the  leadership  of  Pacoimo,  who  had  been  trained 
by  the  padres  as  a  cabinetmaker,  attacked  the  mission  Purisima. 
A  corporal,  with  four  or  five  men,  defended  the  mission  all  night ; 
but  their  power  gave  out  and  they  surrendered.  In  this  conflict 
four  Europeans  and  seven  Indians  were  killed.  The  California 
Indians,  however,  were  not  of  the  Apache  sort ;  and  the  soldiers 
and  their  families  were  allowed  to  depart  to  Santa  Ynez.  The 
priest.  Father  Rodriguez,  remained  behind  with  the  neophjrtes 
and  was  not  molested.  The  rebel  Indians  fortified  the  mission, 
cutting  loop-holes  in  the  church  and  mounting  old  cannon  which 
had  been  used  to  fire  salutes.  March  i6th  the  little  Spanish  force 
from  Monterey  attacked  the  church  at  8  a.  m.  and  captured  it  at 
10 :30  a.  m.  Three  Spaniards  were  wounded,  one  fatally ;  sixteen 
Indians  were  killed,  and  many  wounded.  After  a  judicial  in- 
quiry, seven  insurgent  Indians  were  executed  for  murder;  and 
four  ring-leaders  of  the  revolt  were  sentenced  to  ten  years  in  the 
guard-house. 

In  1822  the  lands  of  this  mission  measured  fourteen  leagues 
north  and  south,  and  from  four  to  six  leagues  east  and  west. 
These  were  the  Spanish  leagues,  of  about  two  and  one-half  miles. 

In  iSof)  the  attempt  of  the  viceroy  of  Mexico  to  raise  hemp  in 
California  had  one  of  its  most  successful  experiments  at  this 
mission. 

In  1835  the  property  of  this  mission  was  appraised  at  $62,000. 
The  mission  was  secularized  in  February,  1835.  In  1830  the 
large  cattle  numbered  13,000;  at  the  secularization  these  herds 
were  slaughtered  mercilessly  for  their  hides  and  tallow. 


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264  OUT    WBST 

In  March,  1843,  the  Mexican  governor,  Micheltorena,  restored 
to  the  padres  this  mission  and  eleven  others;  the  churcn  prop- 
erties but  without  their  lands.  From  this  time  on,  under  tiie 
oppressive  measures  of  the  Mexican  government,  the  descent 
ot  the  mission  was  rapid,  in  1844  there  were  lett  but  200  neo- 
phytes. There  was  no  property  leit,  and  no  lands  except  a  mod- 
est vineyard.  December  4,  1845,  ^^^  mission  was  sold  by  tne 
government  to  John  Temple,  for  $1110.  Its  vicissitudes  since 
are  less  important.  It  finally  found  its  way  into  the  possession 
of  one  of  the  foremost  of  those  modern  American  companies 
whose  enterprise  has,  within  a  few  years,  made  California  one 
of  the  first  oil  producing  states  in  America — the  Union  Oil  Co. 
To  the  public-spirited  oflScers  of  this  company  is  due  the  trans- 
fer of  this  venerable  ruin  to  the  Landmarks  Club,  to  be  preserved 
for  the  public  benefit. 

Again  the  directors  have  peculiar  pleasure  in  welcoming  a  very 
young  life  member — a  fashion  set,  in  this  community  at  least  by 
the  landmarks  Club.  Master  Walter  Jarvis  Barlow,  jr.,  now  of 
the  golden  age  of  five  years,  is  the  new  recruit.  He  starts  in  a  good 
path  in  a  good  time.  May  he  tread  it  long  1  There  are  parents  who 
fancy  that  a  birthday  present  of  this  sort,  setting  the  young  feet 
in  ways  that  lead  to  good  citizenship,  is  quite  as  worth  while  as 
so  many  tops.  Maybe  their  children  will  be  as  grateful,  a  few 
years  from  now.  By  the  time  this  lad  is  a  man,  a  million  edu- 
cated people  a  year  will  see  the  California  Missions,  glory  in 
their  architecture,  their  history  and  their  romance,  and  feel  the 
gratitude  which  education  gives  us  toward  these  who  have  saved 
such  things.  Then  possibly  Mr.  Barlow  may  have  forgotten 
what  clockwork  automobiles,  ponies,  books  and  candies  he  had 
on  his  fifth  birthday;  but  he  will  not  forget  that  ever  since  his 
childhood  he  has  helped  to  save  the  history  of  his  native  state. 
Walter  is  the  fourth  boy  to  acquire  life  membership  in  the  Land- 
marks Club.    There  are  no  girls  yet. 

Chas.  P.  Bowditch,  Henry  E,  Huntington,  Walter  Jarvis  Barlow,  Jr. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $7905.18. 

New  contributions — Henry  E.  Huntington,  President  Los  Angeles  Inter- 
Urban  Railways,  N.  Y.,  $25.00  (life  membership)  ;  Walter  Jarvis  Barlow,  Jr., 
aged  5)  $25.00  (life  membership) ;  Chas.  P.  Bowditch,  Vice-President  Arch. 
Inst,  of  America,  Boston,  $25.00;  Elizabeth  C.  Daly,  Los  Angeles. 

C.  T.  Brown,  C.  E.  Socorro,  N.  M.,  $5.00;  Chas.  Cassat  Davis,  Board  of 
Education,  Los  Angeles,  $5.00. 

$1  each  (annual  membership) — Rt.  Rev.  T.  J.  Conaty,  Bishop  of  Los 
Angeles  and  Monterey;  Dr.  Chas.  Lee  King,  Pasadena;  Jones's  Book  Store, 
E.  T.  Perkins  (U.  S.  Geol.  Survey),  Mrs.  E.  T.  Perkins,  Mrs.  W.  M. 
Mitchell,  Fielding  J.  Stilson,  C.  D.  Willard,  Mrs.  C.  D.  Willard,  W.  H. 
Newmark,  Rev.  Wm.  Horace  Day,  Jas.  A.  Gibson,  Mrs.  Fred  F.  Lambourn, 
Los  Angeles;  Anna  H.  Searing,  Escondido,  Cal. ;  Prof.  Edward  S.  Burgess, 
the  Normal  College,  N.  Y. ;  Frank  S.  Bigler,  Detroit,  Mich.;  Gto.  H.  Max- 
well, Executive  Chairman  National  Irrigation  Association,  Chicago;  William 
R.  Myers,  Harriet  Williams  Myers,  Garvanza  Station,  Los  Angeles;  Prof. 
Wm.  H.  Holmes,  Director  Bureau  of  Ethnology,  Washington,  D.  C. ;  J,  E. 
S.  Heath,  Harriet  A.  Heath,  South  Pasadena;  Dr.  Lorenzo  (jordin  Yates, 
Santa  Barbara. 


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265 
BETTER  THAN  GOLD 

By  PHILIP/.  NEWMAN 
(Another  extract  from  the  autobiography  of  Jerry  Murphy,  Prospector.) 

IGHT  on  the  boundary  between  the  old  and  the 
new  is  the  town  of  Phoenix,  Arizona.  Still 
standing  are  the  long,  low  gambling  halls  on 
Washington  street.  But  the  Indian  girl,  painted 
and  beaded,  stands  no  longer  shy  and  curious, 
by  the  comer  posts  in  front  of  them ;  the  "tin- 
horns" lounge  no  more  in  the  sultry  shade, 
spoiling  for  excitement;  the  prairie-schooner  no  longer  ploughs 
through  the  street,  drawn  by  a  centipede  of  mules.  Old  times 
have  passed  away. 

Down  the  street  of  the  old  town  is  now  no  look  at  all.  The 
women  and  the  farmers — what  me  old  friend,  John  Clancy,  calls 
the  "moral  element" — have  taken  the  country.  Behind  dark- 
green  folding  doors  the  ivory  ball  still  spins,  but  it's  winding 
down  to  its  last  jump.  Across  the  street  hay-shovelers  are 
swapping  eggs  for  calico,  and  you  can  see  the  gambler's  finish 
— that  kind  of  figuring  don't  go  with  tin-horn  aristocracy. 

One  morning  in  late  April  I  took  me  pasear  down  Washing- 
ton street.  Ahead  of  me  the  electric  cars  went  buzzing  down  a 
line  of  cottonwoods  that  narrowed  to  a  point  in  the  level  distance. 
The  rock  mountain  beyond,  balloon-shaped  in  the  mirage,  rode 
and  wavered  in  the  heat  like  the  thing  it  seemed.  Warm  wooing 
summer,  as  the  fellow  says,  was  coming  on,  and  me  back  began 
to  prickle  with  the  heat. 

"Your  wings  are  itching  to  make  a  fly-away  to  a  cool  coun- 
try, Jerry,"  I  says.  "You've  got  plenty  of  fly-away  stuff  in  your 
clothes.    You'll  have  to  take  a  trip  to  the  coast." 

I  turned  into  the  "Palace"  to  have  me  morning  toddy  with  old 
"Wheelhouse"  John  Clancy.  The  bartender  laid  a  fat  influential 
cigar  on  the  bar,  and  took  up  a  couple  of  his  long,  shiny  glasses 
— nothing  was  too  good  for  Murphy  and  his  friends  since  he 
made  his  stake. 

The  saloon  was  cool  and  quiet;  the  floor  was  still  damp  from 
the  sweeping,  and  the  chairs  were  piled,  legs  up,  on  the  table. 
A  small  knot  of  men  were  gathered,  like  flies,  around  a  faro  table 
in  the  corner.    At  the  wheel,  John  was  reading  the  paper. 

A  gray  and  grizzled  old-timer  was  John.  He  had  been  a  mule- 
skinner  in  early  days,  that  is,  until  he  found  he  had  a  hoodoo  on 
the  ivory  ball;  then  he  took  his  nick-name  and  turned  gambler. 
But  he  couldn't  shake  his  tanning  alkali.  His  voice  was  like 
a  hoarse  gale  of  wind,  and  everything  about  him  was  round  and 
fat  and  salty.    His  bushy  gray  eyebrows,  his  thick  white  mus- 


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266  OUT    WEST 

tache,  his  knobby  cheeks,  all  stuck  out  in  fierce  good  humor.  He 
didn't  have  an  enemy  nor  a  dollar  in  the  world — ^when  he  died, 
I  telegraphed  me  five  dollars  to  help  bury  him.  The  only  thing 
John  was  "down"  on  was  the  "moral  element  that  was  ruining 
the  country." 

He  tossed  me  the  paper,  and  set  to  work  cleaning  his  lay-out. 

"You  missed  a  mightly  pretty  play  last  night,  Jerry,"  he  says. 
"There  was  a  little  touch  of  old-time  gambling.  It  was  suckers 
win  and  gamblers  lose,  too— I  lost  my  rep." 

"Who  win?"  I  says. 

"A  couple  of  strangers — miners,  in  from  somewhere  with  a  few 
months*  pay.  They  were  dressed  up  to  kill,  with  silk  shirts  and 
nugget  scarf-pins,  skin-tight  kid  shoes,  twelve-dollar  pants,  and 
Stetson  hats.  I  was  out  sporting  my  diamonds,  myself" — old 
John's  fat  sides  shook — "and  wherever  I  went  I  noticed  them — 
always  together — mixing  in  the  crowd,  watching  the  games, 
taking  a  drink,  now  and  then,  but  banking  their  money  safe  in 
their  pockets.  But  when  the  Chink,  Skinny  Johnson,  got  busy 
fixing  the  lottery  tickets  in  the  back  of  the  room  there,  the  lads 
couldn't  stand  the  pressure.  One  of  them  fished  up  a  quarter, 
and  marked  a  ticket.  After  the  draw  every  Chink  in  the  room 
crowded  around  the  stranger  for  a  'look  see' — ^he  had  made  an 
eight  spot,  and  drew  down  a  couple  of  hundred  bucks.  The 
boys  had  a  few  drinks  to  celebrate,  and  then  I  sees  them  off  in 
a  corner,  talking  it  over.  You  know  how  it  was — ^that  two  hun- 
dred was  velvet — they  could  afford  to  risk  that.  One  of  them — 
the  big  black  fellow — takes  fifty  and  sits  in  the  faro  game.  In 
half  a  deal  he  runs  it  up  to  three  hundred,  cashes  in,  and  they 
left.  I  went  over  and  turned  in;  and  about  i  o'clock  Skinny 
Johnson  came  after  me.  A  run  was  being  made  on  the  wheel 
and  maybe  I  could  change  the  luck. 

"The  same  two  lads,  with  all  the  town  at  their  heels,  were 
bucking  the  wheel.  They  were  out  with  the  luck  of  a  life-time, 
taking  a  piece  of  hide  off  of  every  game  in  town.  I  took  the 
deal,  but  the  machine  was  wrong.  I  couldn't  spin  the  ball  but  it 
came  on  the  red,  and  the  players  were  betting  the  limit  on  the 
color.  Everything  was  lovely.  The  big  fellow  was  making  the 
bets,  and  the  little  one  stood  at  the  end  of  the  table,  taking  down 
the  pay,  milking  the  game  to  a  fare-ye-well.  The  little  fellow 
was  sure  traveling  on  his  nerve.  He  was  a  middling  tall,  slim 
fellow,  built  like  a  whip,  without  a  bone  in  him.  His  curly 
red  hair  was  combed  nice  and  purty,  and  his  cotton  mustache 
was  twisted  tight  to  his  square-cut  red  face.  Some  girl  had 
pinned  a  bunch  of  pinks  to  his  shirt,  and  he  sang  a  little  good- 
luck  song  as  he  took  in  the  money: 


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BETTER  THAN  GOLD  267 

'Every  time  he  spins  the  ball 
She  hops  out  on  the  rosy. 
And  every  time  I  cops  the  dough 
I  smells  my  true  love's  posy.' 

"The  big  fellow  was  sulky  with  drink,  and  I  saw  if  I  could 
turn  the  play,  and  stick  him  for  a  few  bets,  the  money  would  be 
coming  back.  I  offered  Red  ten  dollars  for  his  bunch  of  pinks, 
but  he  said  he  wouldn't  take  a  thousand — they  belonged  to  his 
true-love.  The  little  fellow  kept  his  posy" — John  laughed  his 
slow,  wheezing,  whisky  laugh — "she  kept  'hopping  on  the  rosy,' 
four  times  out  of  five,  and  the  best  I  could  get  was  a  big  crimp 
in  the  bank-roll.  As  soon  as  they  lost  three  bet3  in  succession, 
the  little  fellow  broke  the  play  off  short.  The  big  one  bulled 
around  for  more  play,  but  Red  made  it  up  to  him,  saying  they 
would  go  down  to  Johnny  Duncan's  and  get  bank.  I  laid  for 
them,  but  they  didn't  come  in  again.  Perhaps  you  know  them, 
Jerry;  they  called  each  other  Jack  and  Scotty." 

"Oh,  yes,"  Isays,  "Scotty  Gannon;  Scott  Gannon  and  Jack 
Truly;  they  always  travel  together;  you  hit  one,  you  hit  the 
other.    I  know  them  well." 

John  tossed  his  rag  and  brush  into  a  drawer,  and  lit  a  cigar. 

"Play  like  this,  Jerry,"  he  says,  blowing  up  the  smoke,"  is 
good  for  a  community.  These  boys  won't  go  out  of  town  with 
a  dollar;  they'll  scatter  the  money  all  over  town.  In  our  early 
mining  camps,  everybody  had  money  because  nobody  kept  it; 
a  man  got  quick  action  on  what  he  had  and  everybody  got  a 
chance  at  it.  And  no  man  could  pretend  an3rthing  he  couldn't 
establish  with  his  hands.  But  with  this  tenderfoot  gang — ^the 
"moral  element"— everything  is  bluff,  mystery,  superstition — ^and 
squeezing  the  almighty  dollars.  Suck  around  the  fellow  that's 
got  plenty — ^he's  a  big  chief — spend  all  your  money  on  him  and 
maybe  he'll  associate  with  you.  But  if  a  poor  widow  woman  is 
trying  to  support  her  children — she's  nobody.  She  isn't  Mrs. 
So-an'-so — ^jew  her  down  to  the  last  cent  because  she  needs  the 
money.  That's  the  tenderfoot  way  of  whip-sawing  the  turn. 
In  our  day  and  place,  Jerry,  how  did  we  treat  the  widow  and  the 
orphan?  She  would  take  in  washing,  and  hire  an  Injun  to  do  it, 
and  make  more  than  a  mine  Superintendent  And  if  any  fellow 
went  after  his  washing  that  didn't  propose  to  her,  he  was  no 
man. 

"I  don't  like  the  tenderfoot,"  sa)rs  John,  "and  I  don't  like  his 
country,  but  I  suppose  we'll  have  to  come  to  it;  things  are 
changing  fast.  Only  yesterday  a  tambourine  was  shoved  under 
my  nose,  and  there  stood  an  Indian  girl  in  a  Salvation  Army 
uniform.    'Are  you  saved,  my  brother?'  she  says.    Asking  me  if 


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268  OUT    WEST 

I  was  saved  I  Me  that  saw  her  mother  and  her  grandmother 
in  a  G-string!  She  rattled  me  so,  I  coughed  up  a  couple  of  bucks 
into  her  jingle-pan  before  I  knew  it. 

"I'll  take  my  chance,  Jerry.  If  being  white  and  square,  and 
keeping  a  man's  hands  above  the  table  won't  win,  nothing  will. 
*UncIe  Billy'  is  a  white  man  and  he's  no  tenderfoot — "  John 
straightened  up  and  spun  the  ivory  ball.  In  shot  the  green 
folding-doors,  and  the  two  lads  came  straight  for  the  roulette 
table.  I  copped  off  the  play  behind  me  paper.  It  was  the  old 
story — they  were  losing  and  couldn't  quit.  Their  last  bet  was 
soon  swept  away,  and  Jack  spread  his  hands  on  the  table  to 
support  a  sudden  weakness. 

"Stake  us  to  a  couple  of  bucks  to  chew  on,  Mr.  Dealer,"  says 
curt  little  Scotty. 

John  dropped  him  two  dollars  from  the  silver  he  was  stacking 
up,  and  the  lads  went  out.  They  cut  diagonal  across  the  street 
to  Coffee  Al's,  and  presently  down  the  sidewalk  to  the  corner. 
There  was  no  more  sunning  themselves  in  their  good  clothes, 
keeping  an  eye  for  the  pretty  women;  they  were  looking  for 
someone  they  knew  to  get  out  of  town.  Crossing  over,  I  saun- 
tered down  toward  them. 

"Well,  well,  well,"  I  says,  "here's  little  Scotty!  How  are 
you?" 

"Not  exactly  broke,  but  pretty  badly  bent,"  he  says,  producing 
a  little  silver. 

"Well,  well — ^and  here's  Jack,  too!    How's  tricks  with  you?" 

"Feeling  like  a  fool." 

"What  seems  to  be  the  trouble?  Being  broke  is  nothing  new 
for  you  boys." 

"That's  so,"  says  Scotty,  cuffing  his  hat  on  the  side  of  his 
head;  "it's  not  the  first  time  I've  given  seven  month's  work  to 
the  gamblers.  But  this  time  it  came  pretty  tough.  We  dropped 
in  yesterday,  bound  for  a  trip  inside,  but  couldn't  let  the  games 
alone.  We  tumbled  into  luck,  and  you  can  guess  the  rest.  As 
long  as  our  luck  lasted  we  had  'em  jumping  sideways,  and  this 
morning  we're  dead-broke  and  shot  to  pieces.  But  it's  not  the 
money  that's  floored  us ;  it's  losing  a  chance." 

"What  sort  of  a  chance?"  I  says. 

Scotty  looked  at  Jack,  and  both  looked  away. 

"I  heard  you  made  it  a  go  in  Alaska,  Jerry,"  says  Scotty. 
"How  was  it?" 

"Pretty  fair;  a  little  comfort  for  me  old  age." 

Again  they  exchanged  glances. 

"Jerry,"  says  Scotty,  "were  you  ever  in  the  south  end  of  Cali- 
fornia?   No?    Well,  it's  the  only  green  and  happy  land.    I  was 


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BETTER  THAN  GOLD  269 

in  there  once  a  Christmas.  It's  the  prettiest  country  that  ever 
lay  under  the  burning  eye;  there's  not  a  straight  line  or  a  jump- 
off  in  it. 

''It's  the  only  God's  country,  Jerry ;  if  you  ever  lived  in  Califor- 
nia, you've  lost  your  mother  and  your  sweetheart  when  you're 
away  from  it." 

**Good  boy!"  I  says.  "Good  boy!  You've  got  me  going. 
What  was  the  chance  you  spoke  of?" 

"It's  an  old  Mexican,"  says  Scotty.  A  Californian  that's  hit 
the  bed-rock.  He's  Don  Tomas  somebody — when  he's  at  home. 
For  the  last  seven  months  Jack  and  I  have  been  cribbing  up  a 
little  stake  at  Congress,  and  we  ran  onto  the  old  fellow  working 
with  the  muckers.  I  gave  him  some  tobacco  one  day,  and  he 
braced  up,  and  passed  the  buck  like  a  man.  Somehow  he  always 
managed  to  be  shoveling  behind  our  machine,  and  he  hears 
Jack  and  me  speculating,  how  we're  to  get  out  and  get  a  little 
honest  money.  One  morning,  while  we  were  setting  up  the 
machine,  the  old  boy  climbed  over  the  muck-pile  and  told  us  a 
few  of  his  travels. 

"A  paisano  of  his  down  in  Guadalajara  had  a  pair  of  hoodoo 
irons  stolen  out  of  the  Mission  where  the  priests  had  had  them 
prospecting  for  buried  treasure.  There  was  an  old  Mission  in 
ruins  near  his  home  in  California,  with  a  lost-mine  story  going 
with  it — a  mine  the  fathers  had  worked  a  hundred  years  ago.  It 
was  rich ;  the  Indians  had  been  seen  dog-trotting  the  ore  to  the 
Mission,  several  miles  away.  The  padres  had  guarded  the  mine, 
and,  when  they  went  away,  had  hid  it  for  keeps.  No  one  had 
ever  found  it,  although  it  was  no  secret  there  was  a  mine ;  every 
man  in  the  country,  sometime  or  other,  had  made  a  try  for  it. 

"In  Tonto  Basin,  when  I  was  a  boy,"  says  Scotty,  "there  was 
a  man  could  locate  silver  nuggets  with  the  hoodoo-stick,  every 
time.  There's  something  in  it;  there's  something  inside  of  a 
man  that  gets  the  hunch,  and  works  the  stick  for  him.  These 
old  priests  in  Guadalajara  had  the  same  notion — and  they're 
dead  onto  their  job,  pardner. 

"Jack  and  I  sent  the  old  boy  to  Mexico  to  get  the  irons  off 
his  compadre.  He  was  to  meet  us  at  the  Rancho  Agua  some- 
thing— I've  got  the  directions  in  my  valise,  inside.  I'm  dead 
sore  on  losing  the  trip.    It's  a  mighty  purty  country,  Jerry." 

It  was  as  good  luck  as  any.  I  fixed  the  boys  with  money,  and 
told  them,  to  take  the  lead — it  was  their  trip.  I  wanted  to  see 
the  country. 

We  left  the  railroad  at  the  coast.  Scotty  fitted  us  up  with  a 
pair  of  plugs  and  a  spring  wagon,  and  we  were  soon  rolling  along 
over  the  springy  ground  of  a  laguna,  with  the  breakers  curling 


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270  OUT    WEST 

white  behind  us,  the  round  green  hills  in  front,  and  the  white 
tips  of  the  Sierras  in  the  distance.  Not  since  me  days  were  young 
and  green  had  I  been  in  such  a  country,  and  there  was  music 
in  me  ears. 

Leaving  the  laguna,  the  road  ran  like  a  strip  up  a  round  green 
hog-back.  Down  below  at  the  left,  in  a  broad  valley,  stood  the 
old  Mission,  silent  and  alone  on  a  barren  red  mound,  as  though 
the  wear  of  time  had  left  it  dead  and  stranded  there. 

"I  wonder  if  it's  haunted,"  says  Scotty,  driving  on.  "Can  you 
talk  spook-talk,  Jerry?  We  might  get  a  pointer  where  this  mine 
is.    But  maybe  the  old  irons  can  hypo  the  hilb  for  us." 

Cutting  down  a  grade,  we  went  spanking  up  the  valley.  The 
rolling,  green,  open  country  soon  gave  way  to  rough  hills,  cov- 
ered with  brown  sage  and  dotted  with  white  boulders.  The  rock 
formation  brought  the  water  to  the  surface,  and  we  were  soon 
splashing  through  a  trickling  stream.  Deeper  in  the  hills  the 
water  stood  in  pools,  mirroring  the  drifting  sky ;  bees  hummed  in 
the  flowing  sage,  and  cattle  lay  under  wide-spreading  oaks. 

The  Rancho  was  near.  The  old-time  Californian,  having  the 
key  to  the  country  when  he  owned  the  water,  always  took  his 
grant  near  running  water,  and  by  it  built  his  low,  square  adobe 
ranch-house.  The  rich  valleys  and  hills,  where  he  pastured  his 
herds,  were  later  taken  by  the  Americans,  leaving  him  his  deep- 
walled  old  house  to  nurse  his  pride  in.  Up  the  widening  ravine 
we  saw  the  last  paring  of  one  man's  pride — a  white-walled,  red- 
roofed  ranch  home,  set  against  the  hill,  across  a  circle  of  green 
flowing  meadow. 

Scotty  slammed  on  the  brake  under  the  shelter  of  the  trees, 
and  we  went  up  to  the  silent  home  to  ask  for  Don  Tomas,  and 
get  permission  to  camp.    Jack  stayed  with  the  horses. 

There  were  a  dozen  doors  in  front  of  the  'dobe  house.  We 
knocked  at  one  that  had  a  window  by  it  with  lace  curtains. 

"Dost  think  thee'U  ever  go  back,  Jerry?"  says  Scotty,  giving 
me  the  old-country  josh. 

"Damme,  ol'  son,  it  all  depen's — '*  The  door  opened,  and  the 
daughter  of  the  house  stood  in  the  deep  casement 

Oflf  came  Scotty's  hat,  and  he  swept  the  ground  with  it,  mak- 
ing a  bow. 

"Buenas  dias,  Se&orita,"  he  says  in  his  sweetest  voice. 

"How  do  you  do,  sir,"  says  she,  not  bending  a  line. 

The  straight  look  she  gave  him  was  too  much  for  Scotty;  he 
stammered  until  I  shoved  him  aside  and  asked  for  Don  Tom^s 
meself  in  plain  United  States. 

"He  was  here,"  says  the  young  lady.  "If  you'll  come  in,  I'll 
ask  my  father." 


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BETTER  THAN  GOLD  271 

As  she  stepped  out,  Scotty's  face  was  red,  and  he  studied  the 
carpet  between  his  feet;  he  didn't  like  his  part  in  the  play  at  the 
door. 

The  solid  white  walls  of  the  room  were  bare,  except  for  an 
old  family  picture  here  and  there.  Fierce  fiery  Dons,  and  old- 
fashioned  little  Seiioritas  in  unhappy  bridal  finery  looked  down 
at  us  with  sadly  humble,  passionate  eyes.  They  all  bore  a  line  of 
resemblance  to  the  woman  that  had  just  left  us.  Her  eyes — 
heavy-lidded,  night-clouded  eyes — were  the  same,  but  it  was  her 
mouth — ^the  blossom  of  the  heart — ^that  made  me  think  of  ner  as 
I  never  thought  of  woman  before.  Red  lips  they  were,  and 
round  and  full,  but  trembling  and  irresolute;  they  reminded  me 
of  the  rose  that  bloomed  outside  the  door,  too  heavy  with  its 
own  sweetness  to  support  itself  upon  the  stem.  Me  arm  ached 
to  fight  the  world  for  her  on  the  spot,  and  the  fear  that  any  other 
man  should  have  her  shot  into  me  like  a  knife.  "Steady,  Jerry, 
you  old  fool!"  I  thought  to  meself.  "This  is  not  your  game. 
You're  a  hard-baked  old  terrier,  and  there's  gray  hairs  in  your 
head.    Steady  I" 

Scotty  had  been  doing  a  little  thinking  himself,  and  wanted 
information. 

"How  did  you  happen  to  know  her  name  was  Romero?"  he 
asked,  looking  up  from  the  carpet.  "Why  didn't  you  talk  Span- 
ish to  her?    Why  did  you  call  her  Miss  Romero?" 

"I  didn't  want  her  to  think  I  was  a  Cholo;  I  saw  3he  didn't 
understand  low-grade  Mexican.  I  found  out  about  things  here 
while  you  boys  were  buying  the  plugs;  that's  always  me  habit 
going  into  a  place." 

"You'll  do,  pardner,"  he  says.  "You  haven't  rambled  all  your 
life  for  nothing.  But  did  you  ever  see  such  a  true-blue  gypsy, 
Jerry?  I'm  giving  you  straight  goods — win  or  lose  on  this  mine 
— I'm  going  to  play  a  stack  of  blues  for  this  girl.  She's  just  the 
fairy  for  Scotty." 

"AH  right,  boy ;  go  in  and  win.    I'll  be  a  father  to  you." 

Romero  liked  company,  and  wanted  us  to  stay  at  the  ranch- 
house,  but  we  couldn't  hear  to  it  He  picked  out  the  best  camp- 
ing place  for  us,  and  sent  an  hombre  for  Don  Tomas,  who  was 
away  on  a  visit 

Jack  followed  the  lead  of  his  pardners — his  feet  went  out  from 
under  at  the  sight  of  the  girl.  Josefa — ^"little  Gypsy  Jo"  the 
boys  called  her — soon  made  friends  with  them  and  they  shared 
her  friendship,  as  they  did  everything.  I  knew  there  would  be 
the  devil  to  pay  as  soon  as  she  favored  one  or  the  other,  and 
hurried  matters  up  when  Don  Tomas  arrived  with  the  "hoodoo 
irons." 

The  formation  of  the  country  was  granite  and  sandstone; 
granite  in  the  rough  back  country,  and  sandstone  under  the 
soil  of  the  rolling  hills  and  valleys  that  belted  the  coast.  The 
granite  was  unstained  by  mineral;  it  seemed  as  barren  as  the 
standstone  itself.  By  the  time  Don  Tomas  arrived,  we  had  run 
the  country  over  in  vain  for  a  trace  of  old  workings.  Scotty 
pinned  his  faith  to  the  irons  to  smell  out  the  old  stopes  and 
galleries  that  had  been  resealed  by  the  wear  of  time.  Don 
Tomas  and  the  boys  w^r^  sure  the  mine  was  there — they  needed 
the  money,  ,  I 

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272  OUT    WEST 

It  was  toward  the  full  of  the  moon,  and  in  order  to  be  secret 
and  mysterious  about  it,  we  did  our  spook  prospecting  at  night 
Don  Tomas  was  the  spook  professor.  He  produced  the  irons, 
and  we  sneaked  off  into  the  hills  to  make  a  try.  Don  Tomas  un- 
rolled the  irons  from  a  frazzled,  gold-embroidered  buckskin. 
Kneeling  down  he  went  through  a  hocus-pocus  to  get  on  the 
blind  side  of  the  saints — a  prayer  his  compadre  learned  from  the 
priests  before  he  stole  the  irons.  The  irons  were  S-shaped,  brass 
concerns,  so  battered  you  couldn't  make  out  the  lettering  on 
them.  At  one  end  of  each  S  was  a  handle,  at  the  other  a  crow's- 
foot,  where  they  dovetailed  together.  A  silver  arrow,  dropped 
through  the  crow's  feet,  was  supposed  to  point  straight  down  to 
the  "oro  fino."  Scotty  and  Don  Tomas  fitted  the  rig  together, 
and  gripped  the  handles  tight  to  keep  the  arrow  pointing  up, 
joined  hands  in  front,  and  went  off  over  the  hills,  walking  side- 
ways. 

Me  curiosity  satisfied,  I  sat  down  on  a  white  boulder,  to 
smoke  me  pipe.  The  country  was  carved  in  marble  beneath  the 
moon,  and  the  sea  was  a  silver  sheet  in  the  distance.  The  deep 
tones  of  a  guitar  came  up  from  the  ravine,  over  the  hills,  and  I 
saw  visions  in  the  fading  wreaths  of  smoke.  Visions  soon  to  be 
but  a  bitter  memory — I  would  have  given  all  me  money  to  be 
young  again. 

Getting  no  action  on  their  hoodoo-stick,  the  boys  soon  tired 
of  walking  sideways  over  the  hills,  holding  up  a  dead  piece  of 
old  brass.  There  was  more  magic  in  sky-larking  with  the  rose- 
lipped  "Gypsy"  in  her  garden,  watching  the  spirit  dance  bright 
in  her  eyes  like  the  curls  of  a  child  in  the  sun.  Scotty  loafed 
around  camp,  thinking  of  nothing  but  the  girl.  In  the  evening, 
when  we  sat  under  the  wide-roofed  porch,  he  sang  cowboy  songs 
to  her,  high  up  in  his  head,  until  she  threw  her  guitar  in  her  lap 
and  burst  out  laughing.  Jack  couldn't  see  it,  but  Scotty  was  win- 
ning her,  hands  down.  I  had  to  steel  up  me  heart  to  be  a  good 
friend  to  him  when  trouble  came. 

I  was  stuck  fast  in  a  game  where  I  couldn't  get  a  look-in — ^the 
girl  would  never  even  talk  to  me.  "Over  the  hills  and  far  away" 
was  the  only  medicine  for  Murphy.  I  took  long  hikes  for  meself, 
losing  meself  and  me  trouble  in  the  deep  green  bosom  of  mother 
earth. 

Deep  in  a  nest  of  adobe  hills,  lying  head  to  head,  was  a  green 
circle  of  sumac  and  elder.  The  adobe  soil,  overlaying  the  sand- 
stone formation,  although  it  waved  and  billowed  with  wild  oats, 
was  usually  barren  of  brush  or  trees;  you  could  trace  the  con- 
tace  of  lime  or  sandstone  with  the  granite,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  see,  by  the  division  of  green,  rolling,  open  country  from 
the  rough  hills  of  brown  sage.  Seeing  this  lone  clump  of  trees 
on  the  adobe,  I  thought  a  spring  must  be  there,  and  climbed  up 
to  it  to  quench  me  thirst.  There  was  no  water.  I  sat  for  half 
an  hour  cooling  me  brow  in  the  shade,  and  sipping  the  honey- 
suckle in  the  undergrowth.  Old  habit  was  strong  on  me;  I 
began  to  kick  around  to  see  if  there  was  a  reason  why  the  trees 
grew  there.  The  soil  was  but  a  few  inches  thick;  beneath  it, 
granite,  sandstone,  and  a  conglomerate  of  sea-shells  bedded  in 
lime,  were  mixed  in  pockets  and  layers.  It  was  an  old  dump  of 
some  kind  and  I  went  home  to  tell  the  boys. 

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BETTER  THAN  GOLD  273 

Their  interest  took  fire  again  and  we  went  back  that  very  even- 
ing to  try  the  irons.  After  Don  Tomas  got  through  his  medi- 
cine-performance, I  took  hold  with  him  and  we  started  through 
the  trees.  The  irons  began  to  turn  slowly,  like  the  spoke  of  a 
wheel,  from  the  moment  we  started.  I  gripped  the  handle  until 
me  hand  blistered,  but  couldn't  hold  it.  It  continued  to  turn 
until  it  pointed  straight  down,  and  after  we  passed  the  point, 
turned  slowly  to  point  back  to  the  same  spot. 

"Now  she's  throwing  her  mud,"  whispered  Scocty,  marking  the 
ground  with  his  heel.  "Take  her  crossways  to  get  it  exact,  ana 
we'll  fly  at  it." 

The  boys  worked  like  demons,  and  talked  in  whispers — ^it  was 
night,  and  they  were  knocking  at  the  door  of  Old  Prosperity. 
After  an  hour's  work,  they  were  down  shoulder  deep,  and  one 
of  them  shouted.  I  went  to  see — they  wouldn't  let  me  touch  a 
tool — ^and  Jack  held  the  lantern  to  show  me  a  couple  of  stone 
steps.  It  was  the  old  workings ;  up  those  steps  the  Indians  had 
carried  out  the  rock  on  their  backs. 

The  stone  steps  continued  to  go  down  a  steep  slant  for  fifty 
or  sixty  feet.  The  boys  worked  like  grim  death.  Their  hopes 
beat  high  and  they  never  seemed  to  tire.  They  made  open  love 
to  Josefa  in  the  evening,  until  I  was  afraid  they  would  come  to 
blows ;  and  at  night,  in  their  bunks,  they  played  and  fought  like 
bears.  In  the  general  good  humor  I  came  in  for  a  lot  of  hard 
joshing. 

Usually  wrapped  tight  in  me  bunk  before  the  boys  broke  away 
from  the  girl,  they  would  carry  on  a  conversation  for  my  benefit, 
as  they  threw  down  their  blankets.  Scotty,  of  course,  did  the 
talking. 

"And  did  you  notice  Jerry  tonight?"  he  would  say.  "Josefa 
had  him  dead  mesmerized,  watching  her  little  hand  fluttering  up 
the  tramway  of  her  guitar.  She  saw  the  poor  old  dumb  beast, 
eating  her  up  with  his  eyes  and  I  sa\V  her  tuck  away  a  little 
smile  time  and  again.  She  played  the  tune  over  and  over,  hoping 
he  would  get  better." 

"Jerry's  a  lady's  man  all  right,"  he  says,  coughing;  "what  I 
call  a  long-distance  lady's  man.  When  Gypsy  Josie  is  alone 
with  me  she  can't  talk  of  anything  but  *Mr.  Murphy.'  Where 
did  I  know  Mr.  Murphy?  And  where  was  I  when  he  did  this, 
that  or  the  other?  You  see,  she's  interested  in  his  yarns. 
And  did  you  ever  hear  such  yarns?  He's  an  educated  terrier; 
he's  been  everywhere,  and  he's  done  everything.  When  he's 
telling  his  travels  to  the  old  Seiior,  she  lays  her  guitar  on  her 
knee  to  listen ;  but  if  he  braces  up  to  talk  to  her,  she  flies  away, 
and  asks  Scottie  to  do  something.  How  purty  she  says  that 
'Scottiel'" 

They  wondered  what  I  thought  of  the  mine  now.  Wasn't  she 
shaping  into  as  pretty  an  incline  as  a  man  ever  saw?  You  could 
lay  a  straight-edge  on  that  flight  of  steps  and  touch  every  stone 
in  it 

Sixty  feet  down  we  struck  a  drift.  When  the  muck  was  down 
so  he  could  crawl  into  it.  Jack  threw  in  an  armful  of  straw  to 
bum  out  the  foul  air,  and  we  went  in  to  investigate. 

The  roof  was  gouged  here  and  there,  where  ore  had  been  taken 


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214  OUT    IVBSr 

out,  but  she  hadn't  caved ;  the  walls  and  roof  stood  firm^  covered 
wiiii  moss  and  mildew.  Seventy  or  eighty  feet  in  we  came  to 
the  lace,  and  1  threw  the  pick  against  it  The  point  went  in  up 
to  tiie  eye,  and  1  had  to  wriggle  and  twist  it  to  get  it  out  1  tried 
again  witii  the  same  result.  1  took  me  candle-stick  and  ran  it 
ail  over  the  face,  and  along  the  roof  and  door  of  the  drift  No- 
where did  1  strike  rock  or  grit,  and  1  extamined  it  closely.  It 
was  a  vein  of  red  and  blue  clay. 

I  held  out  a  few  of  the  moss-covered  pieces  to  the  boys. 

"How  about  the  irons,  now,  Scotty,"  I  says. 

"All  right    Isn't  that  good  ledge  matter?" 

"Clay!*'  I  says.  "Clay I  The  stuff  those  Indians  carried  to 
the  Mission  to  make  jugs  and  oUas.  YouVe  found  a  pottery 
mine." 

Jack  threw  down  the  pieces  he  held  with  an  oath,  whirled  on 
his  heel,  and  went  out  Scotty  stood,  grinning  silly,  scratching 
his  head. 

"I  guess  the  irons  are  not  exactly  up  to  date,"  he  says,  "but 
they  win.  In  their  day  this  was  as  good  as  a  gold  mine.  The 
trouble  is,  we're  not  Indians,  and  those  days  have  passed  away." 

The  jig  was  up ;  we  got  ready  to  pull  out.  The  boys'  prepara- 
tions, as  far  as  I  could  judge,  consisted  in  each  fellow  trying  to 
make  a  sneak  on  the  other  one  to  get  a  promise  from  Josefa  to 
wait  for  him  until  he  rounded  up  a  stake  to  come  for  her.  The 
woman,  of  course,  made  a  puzzle  of  it,  playing  one  against  the 
other  so  the  winner  would  know  he  had  had  a  run  for  his  money. 

The  Sunday  following,  I  paid  me  last  visit  to  the  ranch-house. 
The  Seiior  was  out  with  his  cattle,  and  I  sat  under  the  porch,  be- 
hind me  paper,  watching  the  young  folks  in  the  garden.  The 
girl  was  merry  as  a  child;  the  morning  seemed  to  sparkle  with 
her  laughter. 

"Now  I  think  you  are  handsome,"  she  says,  pinning  a  rose  on 
Scotty's  shirt.  Before  he  could  take  it  up,  she  was  away  pick- 
ing a  flower  for  Jack. 

I  had  a  suspicion  the  girl  knew  she  was  torturing  me;  she 
seemed  to  watch  me  continually  out  of  the  corner  of  her  eyes. 
Finally,  sure  of  it,  I  crushed  the  paper  in  me  hands,  and  stood 
up,  me  mind  made  up  to  make  a  quit  of  it  then  and  there.  Out 
of  the  old  garden  g^te  looked  like  surface  daylight  to  me,  and  I 
made  for  it. 

"Oh,  Mr.  Murphy — ^wait,"  something  breathed  behind  me,  and 
Josefa  ran  down  the  path  toward  me.  At  the  sight  of  me  old  face 
the  merry  light  died  out  of  her  eyes,  and  she  dropped  them  be- 
fore me.  "Won't  you — ^won't  you  have  a  flower,  too?"  she  says. 
"I  have  the  prettiest  one  for  you." 

I  took  the  hand  that  held  the  flower,  and  held  both. 

"Yes,  Josefa."  I  says.  "I'll  take  the  rose,  and  I'll  always  keep 
it.  Not  because  I'm  much  for  flowers,  but  because  it's  like  you 
and  will  always  remind  me  of  you.  For  memory's  sake  it  will 
smell  sweeter  than  any  rose.  I'm  going  away  in  the  morning,"  I 
says.    "Good  bye." 

And  so  I  left  her — I  couldn't  stand  her  pity.  The  sunshine 
danced  before  me  in  ripples  on  the  gfrass,  each  leaf  nodding  to 
me  its  tiny  smile,  but  there  was  no  gladness  in  the  day.    Poor 


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BETTER  THAN  GOLD  275 

old  Murphy,  jealous,  was  crawling  to  his  hole  like  a  wounded 
bear. 

There  was  a  pool,  dimpling  and  smiling  under  the  willows,  like 
a  babe  in  its  cradle.  There  I  had  often  loafed  and  me  feet  strayed 
there  now.  Lying  against  a  leaning  willow,  I  looked  at  meself 
in  the  water. 

"Jerry,"  I  says,  **after  all  your  travels,  and  all  your  luck,  you've 
come  to  a  bad  end.  You'll  never  see  yourself  in  any  woman's 
heart.  Your  eye's  not  bright,  and  your  cheek's  not  smooth — 
curse  the  women  I" 

Like  a  man  holding  his  breath  to  get  over  a  hurt,  I  lay  there 
until  I  heard  a  great  puffing  and  panting  behind  me.  Old  Juana 
— ^she  often  did  her  washing  there — came  waddling  up,  holding 
her  sides — ^she  had  been  running. 

"What's  up?"  I  says.    "What's  the  matter?" 

"Oh,  oh — I  am  so  ol'  an'  fat,  Senor." 

"Yes,  I  know.    But  what's  the  matter?" 

"Poco  tiempo,  poco  tiempo;  mi  corazon  esta  cansado." 

She  moistened  a  forefinger  big  as  me  wrist,  dug  her  hand  in 
her  cotton  skirt,  and  brought  up  a  brown  paper.  Another  dig 
brought  up  some  tobacco,  and  she  made  herself  a  smoke.  She 
took  a  puff  or  two. 

"Yong  fellahs  fight,"  she  says. 

"I  thought  so.    What  about?" 

"No  lo  se — maybe  Josefa.  Leetle  while  'go  she  sit  down  on 
a  doorstep  with  the  face  in  the  hands.  Yong  fellahs  sit  down  each 
both  sides,  an'  try  talk.  She  jump  up,  run  in  the  house,  throw 
herself  down  an'  cry,  cry.  Jack,  he  say,  'What  you  say  that  girl 
she  cry  that  way?'  Scotty,  he  say,  'What  you  say' — ^and  they 
fight.  Scotty  got  whip'.  He  get  up,  brush  off  hees  clothes,  an' 
feex  back  the  hank'chief  'roun  hees  neck,  thees  way.  'You  are 
the  bes'  man  with  the  ban's,  he  say,  but  you  haf  a  come-again, 
pardner.'  Jack,  he  say,  'Any  time,  any  place,  any  way,'  an'  they 
go  to  the  camp.    I  think  they  goin'  slKX>t." 

I  stepped  in  view  of  the  camp.  The  boys,  back  to  back,  were 
going  through  their  valises. 

"Here,"  I  says,  "if  you  got  another  run  in  you,  go  tell  your 
Seiiorita  she's  got  to  come  down  here.  She's  to  pick  the  man 
she  wants,  to  settle  this  row.  Get  there  some  way — ^if  you  can't 
run,  lay  down  and  roll." 

I  went  over  to  camp,  and  sat  on  the  end  of  me  bunk  with  me 
arms  folded.  The  boys  started  away,  but  I  raised  me  hand  and 
stopped  them. 

"That  girl  will  be  here  in  a  minute,"  I  says.  "She  can  say 
which  of  you  she  wants  without  you  men  making  brutes  of  your- 
selves.   There  she  comes  now." 

Josefa  followed  at  Juana's  heels  and  presently  stood  before  me 
with  her  eyes  on  the  ground,  twining  and  twisting  her  hands 
like  a  child. 

"Now,  little  sister,"  I  says,  "these  boys  have  been  getting  fool- 
ish about  you  and  it's  up  to  you  to  save  some  one  from  getting 
hurt.  Sav  which  one  you  want,  and  I'll  take  the  other  one  off 
with  me. 

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276  OUT    WEST 

bhe  raised  an  appealing  look  to  me  face ;  a  look  tiiat  made  me 
heart  cave,  ana  ner  ingntened  nanus  were  never  still. 

"Come,    i  says,  "wnicli  oner'' 

*\Neitner  ot  tnem." 

inere  was  dead  silence — the  boys  heard  that,  i  was  sur- 
prised and  hurt,  meselt. 

"That's  a  rough  deal  for  a  crowd  of  good  men.  We  re  all  tnree 
in  love  with  you.    isn't  there  any  of  us  you  re  in  love  with  ? ' 

*  Yes,  sir." 

**Well,  who  is  it?    It  wasn't  Murphy  you  were  crying  after?" 

"Yes,  sir." 

Some  things  come  natural.  I  never  kissed  a  woman  in  me  life, 
but  1  gave  a  good  imitation  of  an  old  duck  taking  to  water.  Me 
little  sweetheart's  face  was  soon  muffled  on  me  shoulder,  an- 
swering me  questions.  I  thought  of  the  boys  and  looked  up  to 
see  them  shaking  hands. 

"The  argument's  settled,"  says  Scotty.    "The  best  man  wins." 

I  couldn't  drop  me  pardners  at  the  door  of  the  woman  I  had 
taken  away  from  them,  so  I  got  a  horse  from  the  Seiior  and  rode 
with  them  as  far  as  the  divide.  They  were  going  out  to  a  little 
camp  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  and,  if  they  couldn't  catch  on 
there,  they  would  sell  the  team  and  work  back  to  their  old  stamp- 
ing ground.  They  wouldn't  take  a  cent  from  me;  but  I  had 
staked  them  to  the  team,  that  was  theirs. 

The  boys  were  glad  to  be  gone.  When  they  set  their  brake 
on  the  down  grade,  over  the  divide,  they  shook  hands  almost 
without  a  word.  Rounding  a  point  of  rock  below,  they  waved 
their  hats  good-bye,  and  were  gone.  There  was  a  choking  in  me 
throat — all  that  Murphy  had  ever  been  went  with  them. 

I  stood  for  a  long  while  on  the  mountain  top  with  me  eyes 
fixed  on  the  road  that  spun  out  like  a  thread,  and  was  lost  in  the 
desert.  It  was  a  barren  and  sexless  land,  scorched  by  the  glare 
of  the  angry  sun,  a  land  set  in  the  everlasting  tragedy  of  death 
with  saw-teeth  fanging  the  sky;  a  land  where  there  was  no 
rainfall  and  no  wompn. 

I  turned  me  horse's  head  back  toward  the  far  blue  sea,  the 
green  glowing  hills,  and  the  woman.    Murphy  was  going  home. 

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The  Child-Study  Circle,  and  the  Congress  of  Mothers,  and  all 
these  other  conscious  attempts  to  regain  our  human  nature,  the 
Lion  is  far  from  having  a  grudge  against.  They  have  been  made 
necessary  by  our  straying;  and  while  they  sometimes  err  on  the 
side  of  super-excitation,  their  general  trend  is  unquestionably 
toward  the  raising  of  our  civilization  back  toward  humanness. 
They  are  All  Right.    But  so  also  was  God. 

We  are  apt  to  forget  sometimes  that  Human  Nature  was  in- 
vented some  time  ago.  It  was  one  of  the  Old  Man's  first,  best 
thoughts.  We  shall  do  well  if  we  can  keep  it  intact  as  He  made 
it.  Perhaps  it  will  be  easier  for  us  to  do  this  well,  if  we  can 
realize  that  in  the  making  of  it,  and  the  distribution,  He  showed 
no  favoritism.  What  we  call  Human  Nature,  is  in  fact  animate 
nature.  Within  a  few  years  all  scholars  have  come  to  realize 
that  the  higher  vertebrates  share  it  with  man.  We  are  still  in 
society  a  good  deal  like  Gulliver  in  Lilliput;  perhaps  another 
generation  will  bring  us  more  competent  to  use  our  eyes.  We 
know  already  that  motherhood  is  not  confined  to  mankind  alone 
among  the  vertebrates ;  we  do  not  yet  know  whether  the  tree  has 
some  joy  of  maternity,  as  scientists  realize  it  has  some  of  the 
other  functions  which  a  few  years  ago  were  supposed  to  be  con- 
fined to  the  earth's  Dominant  Beast. 

A  few  weeks  ago,  upon  the  Lion's  own  land  in  the  city  of 
Los  Angeles,  a  pair  of  quail  hatched  out  their  brood  of  ten.  The 
Indian  boys  came  running  to  ask  what  should  be  done. 

"Let  them  alone,  of  course — " 

But  the  neighborhood  cats  and  dogs ;  and  the  civilized  boy  with 
a  gun,  who  has  less  mercy  than  any  Indian  ever  had? 

"All  right — catch  them !  For  your  life  don't  hurt  them .  We 
will  see  if  they  can  live  as  happily  as  the  covey  of  quail  did  in  the 
court  of  the  Hotel  del  Coronado." 

The  ten  babies,  just  out  of  the  shell,  were  gently  caught  and 
put  unharmed  in  an  open  box.  The  mother  was  running  around 
thirty  or  forty  feet  away,  calling  to  them — ^anxious  but  not 


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278  OUT    WEST 

hysterical.  Then  the  other  human  troublers  were  sent  away, 
and  the  Lion  came  down  alone.  The  little  mother  drew  closer 
and  closer,  up  to  within  twenty  feet.  Then  she  would  come  no 
nearer.  So  the  Lion  went  away  and  left  the  box  for  her.  With- 
in two  minutes  she  ran  up  to  this  trap — and  the  hunter  knows 
what  a  quail  thinks  of  a  box.  But  her  young  were  peeping  in- 
side. Four  or  five  times  she  ran  about  the  box,  calling;  but  the 
tiny  striped  babies  could  not  hop  out.  She  hopped  upon  the  rim 
of  the  box ;  and  daunted  (as  any  wild  animal  would  be)  hopped 
down,  and  circled  three  or  four  times  more,  still  calling.  Then 
up  she  hopped,  and  down  she  dropped  to  her  children,  and  began 
hovering  them.  A  butterfly  net  dropped  over  the  end  of  the  box 
her  changed  and  more  satisfied  speech  indicated  that  she  was 
in.  This  was  too  much,  even  for  wild  nerves ;  and  up  she  flew — 
to  be  caught,  of  course,  in  the  gauze.  Then  a  monster  500  times 
her  size  closed  an  enormous  claw  upon  her  in  the  netting. 

This  little  mother  did  not  flutter  once,  nor  once  cry  out.  It 
took  the  Indian  boys  fifteen  minutes  to  put  netting  over  the  top 
of  the  box,  leaving  one  end  free.  All  that  time.  Mamma  quail 
lay  motionless  in  a  great  paw.  Then  another  paw  came  down 
into  the  netting,  grasped  her,  took  her  forth  and  dropped  her 
under  the  net  into  the  little  box  with  her  babies. 

A  hen,  civilized  perforce  by  man,  would  thereupon  have  killed 
all  her  chicks,  because  of  her  "emotions."  This  wild  quail  (with 
the  mother-nature  that  God  gave  her,  and  no  one  has  had  a 
chance  to  spoil)  did  not  once  flutter  nor  kick.  She  was  in. a 
house,  in  a  box,  a  prison ;  but  her  children  were  with  her.  She 
instantly  ruffled  her  feathers,  spread  her  wings,  and  called  her 
babies  to  be  hovered — ^and  of  course  among  the  creatures  that 
remain  as  God  made  them,  there  are  no  children  that  have  to  be 
Told  Twice. 

And  the  Lion  came  away,  after  building  an  adequate  home  for 
this  little  family,  more  disposed  than  ever  to  believe  that  there 
is  a  Force  older  and  even  Smarter  than  we  are.  Nor  was  this 
faith  a  whit  lessened  by  the  proof  that  fatherhood  is  as  old  in 
(jod's  scale  as  the  more  beautiful,  because  more  costly,  maternity. 
The  father  quail  did  not  desert  his  own,  nor  quit  his  responsi- 
bilities, even  for  fear  of  the  thing  that  is  most  fearful  to  all  wild 
animals.  He  came  talking  to  them  day  and  night ;  and  he  would 
have  shared  their  captivity — except  that  before  he  could  be 
trapped,  a  civilized  cat  pounced  upon  him. 

Words  are  as  we  use  them — either  the  rock  on  which     ^j^ 
we  stand,  or  the  facial  pitfall  for  our  own  feet.     They  — 

are  mostly  banged  away  like  the  Missourian's  scatter-  wo«ds 

gun  on  a  dark  night — ^"for  general  results."    But  there  are  still 

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IN   THE   LION'S  DEN  279 

some  who  use  them  like  a  rifle-ball,  straight  between  the  eyes 
of  the  quarry.  There  is  no  more  perfect  index  of  the  mind. 
Those  who  think  straight,  speak  straight,  and  write  straight; 
those  who  don't  think  at  all,  spill  more  words  where  all  is  already 
a-slop.  The  digested  thought  finds  expression  in  a  form  unlikely 
to  be  forgotten.  In  every  language  there  is  a  vast  mass  of  prov- 
erbs— ^"the  wisdom  of  many  in  the  words  of  one."  And  it  has 
taken  a  thousand  years  to  make  them. 

The  first  "familiar  quotation"  was  made  by  our  father  Adam. 
The  first  epigram  was  by  his  oldest  son.  "Am  I  my  brother's 
keeper?"  has  served  as  the  bible,  ever  since,  for  those  who  dodge 
the  responsibilities  of  humanity. 

Ever  since  man  became  bridle-wise  upon  the  steed  most  likely 
to  run  away  with  him,  there  has  been  recognized  a  greatness 
in  the  ability  "to  say  it  all"  in  words  so  few  and  so  apt  that 
no  one  ever  thinks  to  issue  a  supplement  Probably  most  laconic 
of  all  was  the  first  conqueror  of  Europe,  the  little  bald  Roman 
who  (while  he  could  write,  and  did  write,  history)  found  three 
words  enough  to  announce  a  great  victory.  Ten  thousand  peo- 
ple remember  Caesar's  diamond  epigram  for  every  one  that  has 
ever  read  his  Commentaries. 

.  If  not  quite  as  compact,  many  other  historic  characters  have  so 
told  a  volume  in  a  sentence  that  it  will  be  a  proverb  to  the  world 
forever.  Every  thoughtful  person  recalls  the  more  prominent  of 
them.  It  is  a  great  gift  to  be  able,  in  a  single  phrase,  to  take  one's 
place  forever  in  the  speech  of  mankind,  whether  by  the  beauty 
and  the  aptness  of  the  couplet,  or  by  the  straight,  stinging  effi- 
cacy of  the  sentence.  And  it  is  a  gift  which  implies  the  larger 
gift  which  fathers  it — the  gift  of  compact  thought 

While  we  have  not  any  local  Caesars  or  Nelsons,  and  while 
its  application  is  local  rather  than  universal,  Los  Angeles  has 
recently  added  a  classic  to  this  slow  world-fund  of  epigram.  The 
city  in  its  prodigious  growth  has  outgrown  all  its  municipal 
clothing — ^water-supply  included.  It  had  reached  the  danger 
line.  Those  who  think,  foresaw  that  without  a  radical  increase 
in  the  supply,  the  community  could  not  much  further  continue  its 
advancement.  Such  increase  in  the  supply  has  been  offered. 
Like  all  public  questions,  little  or  big,  it  has  become  a  matter 
of  dispute.  While  the  sense  of  the  community  is  undoubtedly 
in  overwhelming  favor  of  the  "Owens  River  plan,"  there  are 
many  still  in  doubt;  and  the  papers  are  in  freshet  of  argument 
pro  and  con.  But  all  the  pages  and  columns  of  words  add  noth- 
ing to  what  MulhoUand,  superintendent  of  the  municipal  water 
system  which  (since  it  was  taken  over  from  private  hands)  has 


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280  OUT    WEST 

made  a  most  extraordinary  record  of  efficiency,  has  put  into  a  shy 
dozen  words : 
"If  Los  Angeles  doesn't  get  this  water,  she  won't  need  it." 

SOME  FUEs  Probably  no  other  man  has  done  so  much  for  the  tech- 

iK  HIS  owK  nical  efficiency  of  the  public  libraries  of  the  United  States 

OINTMENT  as  Melvil  Dewey — now  enforced  "Ex-."  Shakespeare  is 
still  rather  more  the  world's  creditor  than  the  attendant  who 
hands  him  out  to  you.  So,  in  proportionate  measure  are  they 
who  make  books  and  know  what  is  in  them  as  compared  with 
those  that  know  the  backs  of  books,  their  numbers  and  their 
ordained  places  in  the  decimal  system.  But  in  this  busy  day 
there  must  be  organization  to  put  the  brains  of  the  few  in  the 
hands  of  the  many;  and  in  this  function  Mr.  Dewey's  services 
have  probably  been  unique.  For  more  than  a  generation  he 
has  been  perhaps  the  most  active  and  the  most  eloquent  agitator 
for  training,  for  method  and  for  technical  detail  in  all  America. 
When  he  began,  the  public  libraries  of  the  country  were  un- 
questionably in  a  provincial  state.  He  has  done  more  than  any 
other  one  person  I  recall  to  formulate  them,  to  give  them  a  sys- 
tem, to  unify  them,  and  to  prepare  for  their  service  a  vast  corps 
of  clerks,  competent  for  the  routine  of  arranging  books  so  they 
can  readily  be  found  and  promptly  handed  out  to  such  as  happen 
to  ask  for  them  by  name.  If  not  the  father,  he  has  been  the  most 
energetic  step-father  of  the  library  training-schools.  He  is  the 
inventor,  I  believe,  of  a  decimal  system  which,  despite  certain 
ridiculous  mistakes  (likely  to  occur  in  any  inclusive  system  to 
cover  the  enormous  publications  of  the  modern  world,  which 
must  from  time  to  time  meet  its  reductio  ad  absurdum),  is  now 
very  widely  in  use.  He  is  a  man  whose  integrity  I  think  has 
not  been  questioned,  whose  energy  is  tireless,  whose  ingenuity 
is  great,  and  who  speaks  most  fascinatingly  and  by  the  book. 

It  will  be  inevitable,  therefore,  to  feel  that  the  present  ending 
of  his  stormy  career  is  a  misfortune;  despite  the  obvious  and 
long-notorious  reasons  why  (in  the  rude  language  of  the  Plains) 
"his  boss  quit  him."  It  is  a  misfortune — though,  like  most  clouds, 
not  without  its  silver  lining.  While  a  temporary  loss  to  tech- 
nical librarianship,  it  is  a  distinct  lesson  and  gain  for  those  qual- 
ities of  business  and  manhood  and  common-sense  which  obtained 
long  before  "trained  librarians"  were  invented. 

For  many  years  Mr.  Dewey,  as  director  of  the  New  York  State 
Library  at  Albany,  N.  Y.,  as  Secretary  of  the  State  Board  of 
Library  Regents,  and  as  leading  spirit  of  the  library  training 
classes  of  the  Empire  State,  has  been  a  storm-center.  No  doubt 
much  of  this  has  been  due  to  the  fact  that  politicians  could  not 


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IN   THE  LION'S  DEN  281 

use  him.  No  doubt,  also,  quite  as  much  has  been  due  to  the  equal 
fact  that  he  either  could  not  or  did  not  use  the  saving  grace  of 
common  sense.  He  has  been  for  all  these  years  what  the  rude 
Westerner  calls  Tenderfoot.  This  quality  has  brought  upon 
him  at  home,  among  many  other  things,  public  reprimand  by  his 
superiors,  the  Regents  of  the  New  York  State  Library;  the  loss 
of  his  position  as  secretary  of  that  Board ;  and,  in  August,  1905, 
his  enforced  resignation  from  his  $5000  position  as  Director  of 
the  State  Library  of  New  York.  At  the  August  meeting  of  the 
Regents  he  was  given  until  December  31,  1905,  to  "close  up  his 
business  and  retire  from  the  service  of  the  State." 

The  Lion  is  sincerely  sorry  for  the  passing  of  Mr.  Dewey, 
though  human  enough  to  appreciate  the  humor  of  it  His  re- 
lations with  Mr.  Dewey  have  been  very  comfortable  and  agree- 
able— for  the  Lion  never  holds  grudges  for  the  blunders  of  the 
well-meaning.  A  few  weeks  ago  Mr.  Dewey  saw  Los  Angeles 
for  the  first  time  in  his  life.  Without  investigation,  inquiry  or 
care  for  the  facts,  he  took  a  violent  partisanship  in  a  local  con- 
troversy, and  in  an  eloquent  public  talk  accused  several  reputable 
citizens  of  what,  in  the  mind  of  every  decent  man,  is  a  crime; 
lectured  the  city  for  its  iniquity  in  things  wherein  other  Amer- 
ican cities  are,  he  alleges,  generally  clean;  and  actively  broad- 
casted throughout  America  his  ignorant  aspersions  on  the  fame 
of  Los  Angeles. 

Now  this  is  not  a  sinful  thing  to  do.  It  is  simply  foolish. 
Back  in  Boston  they  would  call  it  "lack  of  balance."  In  the  Cal- 
ifornia of  a  few  years  ago,  everybody  would  have  defined  it  with 
the  terse  word  "Tenderfoot."  Today,  with  regard  to  our  pass- 
ing slang,  the  papers  have  unanimously  designated  it  as  "butting 
in."  All  these  definitions  converge.  And  the  act  which  they 
define — ^and  the  habit  of  such  action — explain  why  one  of  the 
ablest,  most  talkative  and  most  likable  of  American  librarians 
has  been  forcibly  divorced  from  one  of  the  most  remunerative 
library  positions  in  America. 

Unquestionably  since    Medieval   history,   when   there 
TO  MtAw  were  Saladins,  and  Richards  of  the  Lion  Heart,  no  ruler 

THB  UNK  of  a  great  nation,  whether  republic  or  monarchy  (except- 
ing only  Diaz),  has  ever  wilfully  invited  so  many  and  so  great 
personal  hazards  as  President  Roosevelt.  Perhaps  no  one  of 
his  imperial  compeers  was  ever  so  seriously  and  so  oft  in  chosen 
peril,  even  before  coming  to  the  throne.  Certainly  none  of 
them  since  accession  has  so  often  and  for  so  high  a  stake  played 
across  the  table  with  that  Lean  Fellow  who  always  takes  the 
last  trick.    Even  the  man  nearest  like  him  among  the  world's 


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282  OUT    WEST 

potentates  today  has  never  had  anything  like  the  same  Western 
effrontery  in  chucking  Death  under  the  chin.  To  kill  bears  and 
panthers  with  a  hunting  knife,  to  stand  off  lynchers,  to  laugh  at 
anarchists  and  assassins — ^none  of  these  are  etiquette  for  the  man 
upon  whose  head  rests  the  responsibilities  of  a  nation.  And  per- 
haps the  most  extraordinary  and  most  dubitable  of  these  ad- 
ventures was  the  President's  day-before-yesterday  temptation 
of  the  submarine  boat 

The  first' and  perhaps  still  the  foremost  reason  why  the  na- 
tion loves  Roosevelt  as  no  other  of  its  presidents  has  been  loved 
in  his  lifetime,  and  as  only  two  have  been  loved  after  their  death, 
is  this  very  thing.  Civilization  has  not  yet  so  preyed  upon  us 
that  the  most  cowardly  do  not  love  courage.  The  physical  and 
the  moral  dauntlessness  of  the  President  have  endeared  him  not 
only  to  heroes  but  to  those  who  would  be  if  they  dared.  The 
nation  needed  a  Man — how  badly  he  was  needed,  we  did  not 
realize  until  we  were  astonished  to  find  we  Had  one. 

But  there  can  be  enough  of  even  a  good  thing;  and  he  whom 
80,000,000  people  love  cannot  properly  dare  as  much  as  he  whose 
permanence  or  exit  concerns  no  one  but  his  own  little  circle. 
Responsibility  breeds  obligation.  The  simile  will  not  be  misun- 
derstood, for  the  President's  capital  calibre  is  by  now  gauged 
the  world  over ;  but  even  a  pin  has  a  head  put  on  it  to  keep  it  from 
Going  too  Far. 

It  is  an  old  story  that  "it  is  dangerous  trying  to  be  safe ;"  and 
while  old  it  is  still  true.  There  is  more  than  epigram  in  the 
axiom  that  danger  catches  up  with  those  who  run  from  it  A 
chimney  may  fall  on  a  man  in  his  own  house,  or  the  unsus- 
pected midnight  tack  may  finish  him  with  blood  poisoning.  But 
there  is  always  a  golden  mean.  God  pity  a  nation  when  its  men 
lose  the  pulse  of  adventure ;  and  if  the  men  of  the  nation  should 
have  this  pulse,  so  should  its  First  Man.  On  the  other  hand, 
everything  has  its  So-far.  Probably  every  adventurer  has  found 
himself  more  conservative  after  acquiring  a  wife  and  baby  for 
whose  happiness  he  was  as  a  man  responsible.  The  acquire- 
ment of  any  human  responsibility  generally  tends,  and  normally 
tends,  to  increase  the  sense  of  obligation  of  the  curator  to  pre- 
serve himself  for  the  sake  of  his  trust 

Every  man  who  holds  an  official  position,  no  matter  how 
humble,  realizes  (if  he  have  sense)  that  the  very  things  which 
were  his  privileges  as  an  individual,  are  no  longer  his  in  his 
relation  to  the  community. 

Like  all  human  queries,  national,  political,  religious  or  social, 
this  matter  hinges  on  definition.  No  one  will  deny  that  there 
must  be  some  things  too  dangerous  to  be  indulged  in  by  a  man 

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IN   THE   LION'S  DEN  283 

of  whom  his  nation  expects  so  much.  The  drawing  of  the  line 
is  a  delicate  matter.  But  it  certainly  is  not  treason  to  suggest 
that  there  is  such  a  line ;  and  that  all  of  us  may  profitably  begin 
to  reckon  about  where  it  ought  to  lie. 

There  is  much  discussion  among  the  Mentally  Unem-     the  cure 
ployed  whether  there  is  more  dishonesty  in  public  life  for  a 

than  there  used  to  be;  or  whether  we  "only  hear  more  cancer 

about  it,"  thanks  to  the  newspapers  and  an  occasional  crusader 
for  good  government.  The  discussion  somewhat  recalls  the  anec- 
dote of  Lincoln — ^and  of  course  all  good  stories  were  fathered 
upon  Lincoln  until  very  recent  years,  since  when  they  have  been 
attributed  to  a  famously  smug  and  orotund  senator. 

The  story  is  that  in  his  obscure  days  as  a  country  lawyer,  Lin- 
coln took  home  as  a  boarder  his  law  partner;  that  Mrs.  Lincoln 
had  convictions  of  her  own,  not  wholly  in  line  with  the  later  ver- 
dict of  the  world  concerning  her  husband ;  that  with  the  thin  par- 
titions of  a  country  shell,  the  partner  overheard,  unwillingly,  so 
many  curtain  lectures,  and  so  pointed,  that  he  was  moved  to 
protest : 

**Abe,  how  in  the  world  can  you  stand  it?" 

To  which  the  Rail-Splitter  is  alleged  to  have  answered,  with 
a  knowing  inclination  of  his  forefinger: 

"You  have  no  idea  how  much  it  relieves  Mrs.  Lincoln." 

So  doubtless  it  relieves  the  disputants  in  this  case. 

Of  course  there  Is  more  dishonesty  than  there  used  to  be — 
though  without  question  it  is  much  magnified  to  our  ear  by  the 
enormous  multiplication  of  the  activity  of  the  "news."  This  has 
to  be.  Modem  life  is  more  complex  every  day.  Today  it  is  a 
hundred  times  as  involved  as  it  was  when  your  grandfather  and 
mine  held  the  relation  to  his  day  that  you  and  I  do  to  ours.  Com- 
plication begets  complication.  Graft  breeds  graft.  All  these 
habits  are  cumulative,  as  every  habit  is.  The  philosopher  traces 
this  aggravation  of  symptoms  to  several  causes  which  need  not 
be  discussed  here — since  they  are  an  essay  in  themselves,  and 
each  of  them.  But  the  gravest  students  of  human  affairs  already 
as  a  whole  agree  to  the  fact  that  in  society,  in  politics,  in  every 
other  civilized  activity,  certain  morbid  tendencies  which  a  few 
generations  ago  were  merely  indicative,  have  now  become  active 
and  progressive. 

And  no  less  general  is  their  agreement  as  to  the  radical  cause. 
Several  things  have  combined  to  aggravate  the  disease ;  but  the 
seat  of  it  is  in  the  blood. 

Now  cancer  may  be  "cured  without  an  operation"  in  those 
newspaper  columns  granted  to  them  that  prey  upon  the  despair 
of  their  kind ;  but  if  you  take  a  cancer  to  a  proper  doctor  he  takes 
a  knife.  In  economics,  the  quacks  are  those  who  have  other 
nostrums — one  of  which  is  "to  let  it  go."  It  is  a  feature  of  our 
day — ^and  one  of  the  most  encouraging — that  our  national  dis- 
ease has  come  to  the  hospital;  where  Drs.  Roosevelt,  Folk, 
Jerome,  and  their  kind  are  operating,  not  with  poultices  nor  with 
Absent  Treatment,  but  with  the  thin  edge  of  steel.  A  malignant 
growth  needs  to  be  removed.  Thank  God,  there  are  men  who  are 
not  afraid  to  remove  it,  and  who  do  not  faint  at  the  sight  of  a 
drop  of  political  blood. 


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284  OUT    WEST 

The  blood-purifier  is  indeed  prescribed  by  them  at  the  same 
time ;  but  that  is  for  you  and  me  and  all  of  us  to  take  out  of  our 
proper  bottles  with  our  household  teaspoons.  Neither  national 
nor  state  physician  can  catch  each  one  of  us,  tie  and  gag  us  and 
pour  the  medicine  down  our  throat  This  is  an  individual  re- 
sponsibility. When  even  a  working  minority  of  the  citizens  of 
the  United  States  are  personally  honest — ^honest  to  their  families, 
to  their  community,  to  the  assessor,  and  above  all  to  themselves 
— then  we  shall  much  more  seldom  need  to  carry  the  community 
patients  to  the  operating  table.    And  presently  not  at  all. 

To  some  it  is  only  saddening  that  within  one  year  the  first 
Senator  of  the  United  States  to  be  convicted  of  dishonesty  should 
be  followed  by  a  second.  Certainly  it  is  not  a  jovial  record — ^but 
it  is  a  mighty  encouraging  one.  Senator  Burton,  of  Kansas,  and 
Senator  Mitchell,  of  Oregon,  are  two  scoundrels.  If  they  had 
been  tramps  or  carpenters  or  common  store-keepers,  both  of 
them  would  have  been  behind  the  bars  long  ago.  It  is  encourag- 
ing to  reflect  that  while  they  have  not  been  justly  punished  as 
poor  men  would  have  been  for  the  same  violation  of  the  laws  of 
God  and  man,  both  are  branded  for  life.  There  is  no  question 
that  we  had  come  nationally  to  take  a  rather  flippant  view  of  offi- 
cial dishonesty.  There  is  no  question  that  the  example  of  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt  and  the  like-minded  men  who  have  been  en- 
couraged to  activity  by  his  success,  has  had  a  deep  and  far- 
reaching  effect  upon  this  common  palliation  of  dishonesty  in 
public  life.  Without  legal  process  as  yet,  it  is  most  encouraging 
and  significant  that  the  exposure  of  Senator  Depew  for  doing 
as  decent  individuals  in  private  life  would  scorn  to  do,  has  earned 
him  the  disregard  and  contempt  of  the  whole  nation.  One  need 
not  have  any  grudge  against  any  particular  public  man,  to  hope 
that  this  national  surgery  may  go  on  until  every  politician  who 
gets  the  idea  that  he  is  absolved  of  the  duties  of  the  common 
people  shall  have  come  upon  the  operating  table  in  the  free  pub- 
lic clinic. 
SAINTS  It  ought  to  be  possible  for  some  of  the  leading  reviews 

AND  in  the  East  to  learn  the  very  simple  rule  which  governs 

SINNERS  the  masculine  Saints  of  Spanish  extraction  in  our  geo- 
graphic calendar.  There  are  thousands  of  Spanish  names  on  our 
map ;  we  ought  to  be  able  to  find  someone  to  spell  what's  on  our 
map.  There  certainly  is  no  excuse  for  the  "New  York  Evening 
Post"  to  persist  in  talking  about  "San  Domingo."  It  would  be 
just  as  scholarly  to  talk  of  St.  Francisco,  Cal.,  or  San  Louis,  Mo. 

In  the  Spanish  language  there  are  four  Saints,  and  only  four, 
that  invariably  take  the  form  "Santo"  instead  of  "San."  These 
are:  Santo  Domingo,  Santo  Tomas,  Santo  Tome,  and  Santo 
Toribio.  All  the  other  Saints  of  the  harder  sex  are  "San ;"  all  the 
ladies  are  "Santa." 

It  is  high  time  for  those  who  pose  as  educators  to  observe  these 
unvarying  rules,  and  it  is  always  time  for  those  who  do  not  pose, 
to  learn  the  right  thing  as  fast  as  they  can. 

Chas.  p.  LuMicis. 


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285 
THE  SOUTHWEST  SOQETY 

Archseolojical  Institute  of  America. 

Presidtni,  J.  S.Slauson. 
TIce-Prasldetits:  6«ii.  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  Editor  Los  Auffeles  Times;  Fredk.  H.  Riudre, 
Prest.  ConserratiTC  Life  Ins.  Co. ;  Geo.  F.  Borard,  Prest.  U.  ef  S.  C;  Dr.  Norman  Bridge. 
SecretarTfChas.  F.  Lnmmis.  BxecntiTe  Committee,  Major  £.  W.  Jones. 

Tieasnter,  W.  C  Patterson,  Prest.  L«i  An-  ^***  ^Jf^  f  J^*  ^^^'-  {'  ^'  f  *^^*i' 

»eles  National  Bank.  f«^^  ^**^?^^^*%^  t'^'^^^l  Z' 

Lnngren,  Chas.  F.  Lnmmis,  Dr.  F.  M. 
Recorder  and  Curator,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer.  Palmer.  Theodore  B.  Comstock. 

ADVItOKT  COUHCIL: 

Tke  foreffoinr  officers  and 
H.  W.  O'MelTeny,  I«os  Anreles.  Geo.  W.  Marston,  San  DieffO. 

I«onis  A.  Dreyfus,  Santa  Barttara.  John  G.  North,  RiTsrside. 

Chas.  Cassatt  DaTls,  I«os  Angeles.  £.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel. 

Charles  Amadou  Moody,  I«os  Anreles.  Rt.  ReT.  Thos.  J.  Conaty,  Los  Anreles. 

WalUr  R.  Bacon,  Los  Anreles.  Rt.  Rst.  Joseph  H.  Johnson,      ** 

Dr.  J.  H.  McBride,  Pasadena.  Dr.  John  T.  Martindale,  " 

*Hoif OKAKT  LxFS  MsMBBRS :  Hou.  Theodore  Roosexelt,  Washinrton  ;  Chas.  Bllot 
Norton,  LL.  D.,  Cambridre.  Mass. 

Life  Members:  Prof.  C.  C.  Brardon.  Pres.  Lasell  Seminary,  Aubumdale,  Mass.;  ReT. 
Juan  Caballeria,  Plasa  Church,  Los  Anreles,  Cal.;  Chas.  Deerinr,  2645  Sheridan  Road, 
BTanston,  111.;  Mrs.  Bra  S.  F^nyes,  251  S.  Oranre  Grore  Are.,  Pasadena,  Cal.;  Miss  Mira 
Hershey,  350  S.  Grand  Are.,  Los  Anreles,  Cal.;  Major  B.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel,  Cal; 
Homer  Laurhlin,  LaurhliuBldr.*  Los  Anreles,  Cal.;  Los  Anreles  State  Normal  School, 
Los  Anreles,  Cal.  (Gift  of  Senior  A.  Class,  1904);  B.  P.  Ripley,  Pres.  A.  T.  A  S.  F.  R.  R., 
Chlcaro,  111.;  St.  Vincent's  Collere,  Los  Anreles,  Cal.;  SanU  Clara  Collere,  Santa  Clara, 
CaL;  James  Slanson,  Bradbury  Bldr-t  Los  Anreles,  Cal.;  O.  S.  A.  Sprarne,  Pasadena 
Cal.;  J.  Downey  Harrey.  San  Francisco,  Cal.;  John  A.  McCall,  Prest.  N.  T.  Life  Ins.  Co.; 
Mrs.  Bleanor  Martin,  San  Francisco;  Bdwin  T.  Barl,  Los  Anreles;  Wm.  Keith,  San 
FranclBco;  Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Hart.  Los  Anreles;  W.  P.  Wesselhoeft,  M.  D.,  Boston ; 
Dwlrht  Whitinr*  Miss  A.  Amelia  Smead,  Los  Anreles. 

KBPKBSBIITATIVBt  Of  THB  COXTNCIL  OF  THB  A.  I.  A. 

Theo.  B.  Comstock  F.  M.  Palmer  F.  H.  Rindre 

Mary  B.  Foy  Chas.  F.  Lummis  C.  B.  Rnmsey 

J.  S.  Slanson,  ez-officio  Mrs.  W.  H.  Housh 

*By  their  consent,  and  subscribed  by  the  Southwest  Society. 


^ff  LL  the  short  life  (21  months)  of  the  Southwest  Society  has 
J^JI  been  a  sequence  of  large  successes.  In  this  short  span, 
it  has  worked  up  the  largest  membership  of  any  archaeo- 
logical society  in  America;  probably  the  largest  membership  of 
any  so  high-priced  scientific  body  in  America.  It  has  saved  to 
this  community,  from  eager  collectors  in  the  Easts  and  abroad, 
historical  collections  beyond  price ;  it  has  enlisted,  not  merely  to 
passive  membership  but  to  active  aid,  the  foremost  men  and  wo- 
men in  the  business  and  scholarly  fields  in  this  community ;  and  it 
has  already  crystallized  the  broad  plans  for  such  a  museum  as 
does  not  yet  exist  in  the  far  West — but  is  very  soon  going  to  exist 
in  the  chief  city  of  the  Southwest. 

But  its  largest  victory  thus  far  is  the  latest.  This  one  item 
would  insure  the  success  of  the  Southwest  Museum,  and  would 
vindicate  the  whole  activity  of  the  Society  for  its  two  years' 
labors. 

Everyone  knows  somewhat  of  the  Mission  epoch.  For  three- 
quarters  of  a  century,  about,  the  history  of  California  was  the 
history  of  the  Franciscan  Missions.    These  quiet  pioneers  in  grey 

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286  OUT    JVBST 

were  not  only  the  men  who  first  explored  and  settled  and  civil- 
ized California,  and  brought  it  within  the  knowledge  of  the  re- 
mote world ;  they  were  not  only  crusaders  for  the  faith ;  they  were 
practical  business  men  and  leaders  of  men.  The  practical  ability 
of  the  best  of  them  would  today  (with  today's  changed  stand- 
ards) qualify  them  for  the  successful  direction  of  trusts  or  other 
g^eat  business  enterprises.  They  were  men  who  had  the  gift 
to  make  something  out  of  nothing — ^and  with  nobody  for  helper. 

The  monuments  they  left  upon  this  landscape,  the  romance 
they  imprinted  upon  this  history — ^these  have  reached  the  con- 
sciousness of  practically  all  intelligent  people  throughout  the 
world.  They  have  been  an  enormous  asset  to  the  latter-day  ma- 
terial growth  of  California. 

But  times  change,  and  we  change  with  them.  The  era  of  the 
Missions  and  their  Franciscan  commonwealth-founders  is  as  far 
back  of  our  bustling  day  as  the  Middle  Ages.  Thanks  to  the 
brutal  secularization  of  1834,  to  the  cumulative  blunders  of  the 
Mexican  government  before  Mexico  found  its  head,  and  the  use 
of  its  hands;  and  to  the  strain  upon  a  sudden  new  population 
in  trying  to  secure  for  its  new  home  in  ten  years  what  every 
other  American  community  has  required  a  hundred  to  acquire — 
these  things  have  not  only  made  out  of  date  the  Mission  era ;  they 
have  also  largely  robbed  us  and  our  children  of  what  we  are 
entitled  to  have  for  our  education,  our  enlightenment  and  our 
gratification. 

The  visible  remnants  and  relics  of  the  Old  California  are  incred- 
ibly scattered,  lost  and  looted ;  partly  by  carelessness,  partly  by 
too  much  trust,  partly  by  the  fact  that  foreigners  saw  more 
quickly  the  value  of  these  relics  than  we  did  in  California.  The 
historic  remains  of  the  ancient  Southern  California  have  largely 
gone  to  adorn  foreign  museums  and  private  collections  else- 
where. The  first  considerable  retention  in  all  Southern  Califor- 
nia of  <iuch  historical  relics  was  the  purchase  by  the  Los  An- 
geles Chamber  of  Commerce  of  the  Palmer  collection,  ten  years 
ago.  The  second  was  the  purchase  by  the  Southwest  Society 
of  the  Caballeria  collection  last  year. 

But  despite  the  shrinkage  and  loss  by  our  own  carelessness, 
and  the  greater  alertness  of  our  visitors,  there  still  remains  in 
California  a  great  mass,  of  this  historic  material.  Under  more  en- 
lightened laws  the  stolen  Missions  have  reverted  to  their  original 
ownership ;  and  with  them  such  contents  as  had  not  been  stolen. 
Scattered  among  the  various  Missions  of  Southern  California  is 
a  museum  in  itself,  of  relics  of  the  heroic  days.  Aside  from 
what  Mr.  Bancroft  has  — "conveyed,  the  wise  it  call" — for  his 
"library"  there  are  still  in  church  possession  most  of  the  orig- 


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THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A.  L  A.         287 

inal  books  of  marriage,  baptisms  and  burial;  beginning  in  1769 
with  the  entries  written  and  signed  by  Junipero  Serra,  the  Apos- 
tle of  California;  by  Francisco  Palou,  his  companion,  successor 
and  biographer,  and  the  first  historian  of  California;  and  by  all 
the  other  pioneer  missionaries  of  the  State.  There  are  statues, 
paintings,  altar  ornaments,  vestments  and  a  thousand  other  ar- 
ticles which  in  Europe  or  Boston  or  New  York  would  be  realized 
to  be  absolutely  beyond  price. 

About  six  months  ago  the  matter  was  taken  up  on  these  lines 
by  the  Southwest  Society  with  that  broad-minded  American  and 
scholar,  Rt.  Rev.  Thos.  J.  Conaty,  Bishop  of  Los  Angeles  and 
Monterey;  and  the  formal  request  of  the  Executive  Committee 
was  presented  to  him.  The  matter  has  been  laid  before  the 
Council  of  this  diocese  by  him,  with  his  recommendation;  and 
on  the  24th  of  August,  1905,  by  and  with  the  unanimous  consent 
of  his  Council,  Bishop  Conaty  formally  agreed  to  make  a  per- 
manent loan  of  these  articles  to  the  Southwest  Museum,  in  honor 
of  the  missionary  pioneers  who  founded  California. 

Bishop  Conaty  has  already,  as  requested  by  the  Southwest 
Society,  issued  episcopal  orders  to  all  the  clergy  of  this  diocese 
(running  from  San  Diego  to  Monterey)  to  assemble  and  cata- 
logue all  these  articles,  and  hold  them  in  readiness  for  transmis- 
sion to  him;  and  has  agreed  to  deposit  them  in  the  Southwest 
Museum. 

There  is  not  in  North  America  such  a  collection  as  this  will 
be ;  and  this  insures  the  success  of  the  no  less  important  related 
plan  now  being  formulated  by  the  Executive  Committee.  While 
the  Southwest  Museum  is  pledged  to  the  highest  standards  and 
will  be  distinguished  from  any  other  museum  in  the  United 
States  by  certain  things  approved  by  all  scientists,  it  is  emi- 
nently probable  that  this  scientific  collection  of  early  California 
will  be  more  attractive  to  more  people  than  any  other  one  de- 
partment 

Los  Angeles,  March  16,  1905. 
Rt.  Rev.  T.  J.  Conaty, 

Bishop  of  Los  Angeles  and  Monterey, 
Los  Angeles,  Cal. 

My  Dear  Bishop  Conaty: — Pursuant  to  our  recent  conversation,  I  beg  to 
present  to  you,  in  written  form,  a  brief  statement  of  what  the  Southwest 
Society  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America  purposes  to  do,  what 
it  asks  this  diocese  of  the  Catholic  Church  to  do  through  you,  and  the 
manner  in  which  it  believes  the  suggested  co-operation  will  be  of  vital  and 
permanent  benefit  to  this  community. 

The  Southwest  Society  has  undertaken  to  build  in  this  city  a  free  public 
museum.  It  intends  to  begin  that  work  this  year,  1905.  It  intends  to  make 
the  building  the  most  perfect  piece  of  architecture  in  California — and  to 
prove  by  this  building  that  if  people,  today,  care  enough,  they  can,  with 
all  the  resources  of  money  and  labor,  build  as  noble  an  edifice,  in  the  same 
architectural  style,  as  the  Franciscan  pioneers  built  in  California  more  than 
a  century  ago.    It  is  the  intention  to  locate  this  building  upon  a  five-acre 


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288  OUT    WEST 

plot  in  some  commanding  location  where  it  can  "see  and  be  seen;"  to  have 
it  absolutely  fire-proof;  and  to  have  it  the  inevitable  depository  of  those 
objects  of  art,  of  archaeology,  and  of  history,  which  the  scholarship  of  a 
later  day  will  expect  us  of  this  generation  to  have  saved  for  our  children. 

The  society  engages  that  the  museum  shall  be,  though  necessarily  modest 
in  its  beginnings,  beyond  criticism  by  scientists.  It  will  jealously  carry  out 
the  highest  traditions  of  that  scientific  body  of  national  and  world-wide 
standing  under  whose  auspices  it  works.  It  expects  to  open  to  the  public 
as  soon  as  its  first  room  is  completed,  and  to  add  other  rooms  on  the  Mission 
plan  as  funds  can  be  raised  therefor. 

Obviously  a  historic  and  scientific  museum  in  the  chief  city  of  Southern 
California  and  the  Southwest  must  logically  include  a  proper  exhibit  of  that 
which  was  for  the  first  half  century  of  California  history  nearly  all  of  that 
history,  namely,  the  Mission  epoch  and  its  accomplishment  Such  an  exhibit 
should  properly  include,  of  course,  models  of  all  the  California  Missions; 
it  should  mclude  every  record  and  every  visible  relic  of  the  enormous 
achievement  of  these  heroic  evangelists.  It  should  contain  what  I  presume 
it  would  be  proper  to  call  the  severed  relics  of  that  pioneer  evangelizing;  and 
it  should  contain  no  less  the  material  proofs  of  the  civilization  which  these 
practical  men  taught  to  the  savages. 

I  beg  to  remind  you,  on  behalf  of  this  society,  that  today,  and  ever  since 
the  brutal  secularization  of  1834,  the  historic  relics  of  the  Mission  regime 
are  scattered  everywhere.  M*any  bowls,  fonts,  paintings,  vestments  and  other 
objects  are  in  private  possession — mostly  innocent  possession,  having  been 
taken  not  so  much  by  looters  as  by  the  faithful,  who  thus  preserved  them 
from  careless  looting.  Many  are  gone  forever  from  all  possession  which 
can  benefit  either  this  community  or  the  church — I  fancy  you  would  hardly 
believe  how  extensively  these  objects  have  been  bought,  stolen,  or  otherwise 
carried  away  by  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  remainder  is, 
as  you  know,  scattered  among  many  churches  of  your  diocese.  Some  of 
these  are  conserved  by  curators  who  have  the  historic  feeling.  Some  are 
somehow  given  storage  in  churches  or  closets  or  somewhere,  safe  neither 
against  mice  nor  fire  nor  vandals. 

Concisely,  the  Mission  relics  which  are  left  in  California  are,  at  this 
writing,  of  very  small  service  either  as  a  monument  to  that  wonderful  epoch, 
or  to  scholarship  in  the  community  at  large.  This  society  honestly  believes 
that  a  better  arrangement  can  be  made,  and  it  respectfully  tenders  its  services 
to  that  end — in  equal  good  faith  to  both  parties. 

We  request,  respectfully  but  very  earnestly: 

1.  That  you  issue  an  official  letter  as  bishop  of  this  diocese  instructing 
all  priests  under  your  jurisdiction  to  assemble  at  once,  and  at  once  forward 
to  your  personal  keeping,  every  record,  church  book  and  other  document  of 
the  Missions  of  a  date  prior  to  i860;  every  statue,  painting,  vestment,  chalice 
and  other  article  of  historic  use  in  any  of  the  Missions  of  your  diocese 
not  now  truly  essental  to  the  proper  prosecution  of  worship  by  a  present 
congregation,  and  not  replaceable,  without  detriment  to  divine  service,  by  a 
like  article  purchasable  with  money  and  therefore  less  precious  than  these 
historic  objects  which  money  could  not  duplicate — in  which  case  this  society 
begs  the  privilege  of  being  allowed  to  attempt  at  least  to  make  such  sub- 
stitution in  order  that  the  original  article  may  become  safely  and  perma- 
nently a  part  of  that  exhibit  which  we  deem  it  good  citizenship  to  save 
for  the  California  that  was  and  for  the  people  who  made  it. 

2.  That  you,  in  your  official  capacity,  make  a  permanent  loan  to  the 
Southwest  Society,  in  trust  for  the  Southwest  Museum,  of  the  articles  thus 
assembled.  The  society  will  enter  proper  and  legal  obligation  to  give  them 
the  fullest  protection,  proper  display,  cataloguing  and  exposition.  Its  design 
is  that  such  an  exhibit  should  occupy,  in  the  Southwest  Mtiseum — and  as 
soon  as  possible  in  the  development  of  the  plan — a  hall  to  be  appropriately 
dedicated. 

In  this  way  there  would  be  secured  at  once  two  results  which  wc  deem 
eminently  desirable.  There  would  be  for  the  first  time,  and  for  the  only 
place  in  the  world,  a  competent  object  lesson  as  to  the  achievement  of  the 
Franciscan  Missionaries  in  exploring  and  founding  and  upbuilding  Califor- 
nia. Of  course  it  would  be  appropriate  to  add  (and  we  should  ask  the  privi- 
lege to  add)  photographs,  paintings  and  other  documents  which  would 
elucidate  and  comment  upon  this  exhibit.    We  should  also  desire  to  publish 


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THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A,  I,  A.         289 

a  permanent  bulletin  or  monograph  not  only  cataloguing  this   exhibit  but 
giving  the  necessary  generic  information. 

Sudi  an  exhibit  would  be,  of  course,  one  of  the  most  important  features 
of  this  museum.  The  Southwest  Society  is  working  for  this  community 
irrespective  of  creed,  birthplace,  color,  or  anything  else;  but  precisely  as  it 
sees  the  need  of  the  community  for  such  a  museum,  with  this  exhibit  as 
one  of  its  leading  features,  it  feels  the  obligation  and  the  pleasure  of  giving 
full  recG^nition  to  those  whose  courage  and  devotion  laid  the  foundations  of 
California. 

Sincerely  yours, 

Chas.  F.  Lummis. 
For  the   Executive   Committee. 
St.  Vibiana's  Cathedral, 
114  E.  2nd  St., 
Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  Aug.  24,  1905. 
Mr.  Chas.  F.  Lummis, 

The  Southwest  Society,  A.  L  A., 
Los  Angeles,  Cal. 

My  Dear  Mr.  Lununis : — Some  few  months  ago,  on  the  part  of  the  South- 
west Society,  you  made  a  proposition  that  a  hall  to  be  known  as  the  "Junipero 
Serra"  Hall  be  set  apart  in  the  new  proposed  museum  for  the  purpose  of 
holding  as  a  loan  all  such  articles  as  might  be  obtained  from  the  different 
Missions  in  this  diocese. 

I  take  pleasure  in  saying  that  after  careful  consideration  on  the  part  of 
myself  and  of  the  Council  of  this  diocese,  they  arc  one  with  me  in  accept- 
ing the  proposal.  Our  one  anxiety  is  that  we  may  be  able  to  gather  such 
a  collection  as  would  be  creditable  not  only  to  mission  history,  but  also  to 
the  museum  of  which  it  is  to  be  a  part. 

I  am  thoroughly  in  sympathy  with  the  movement  for  the  museum  and  am 
exceedingly  anxious  to  save  what  still  remains  from  the  treasures  once 
held  in  the  missions,  and  in  securing  them  from  all  possible  danger. 

With  best  wishes  for  the  success  of  the  museum,  I  am, 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

Thomas  J.  Con  at  y. 

The  official  letters  in  this  matter  are  appended. 

Activity  in  the  matter  of  the  museum  funds  has  been  held  back 
intentionally,  for  the  securing  of  the  above  important  pledge.  It 
will  now  go  forward  as  rapidly  as  business  judgment  dictates. 
But  meantime  there  has  been  activity — if  without  publicity. 

The  following  gentlemen  have  been  elected  trustees  of  the 
Southwest  Museum  Funds,  and  have  accepted  the  election : 

J.  O.  Koepfli, 

Kaspare  Cohn, 

W.  C.  Patterson. 

Messrs.  Wm.  D.  Stephens  and  Joseph  Scott,  and  Mrs.  W.  H. 
Housh  have  been  added  to  the  Executive  Committee.  Mr. 
Henry  W.  O'Melveny  is  chairman  of  the  Finance  Committee,  and 
will  have  charge  of  the  campaign  for  financing  the  museum.  He 
is  also  chairman  of  the  Site  Committee.  Several  sites  have  been 
offered,  and  a  great  many  will  be  sought.  It  is  expected  to  find 
someone  with  land  plus  intelligence,  who  will  be  glad  to  con- 
tribute five  acres  of  a  commanding  hill-top  out  of  combined 
public  spirit  as  to  the  cause,  and  business  sense  as  to  the  rest 
of  his  holdings. 


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290  OUT    WEST 

The  annual  report  of  the  treasurer  and  secretary  of  this  so- 
ciety to  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America  shows  not  only 
the  unprecedented  gain  in  membership — and  this  society  is  now 
more  than  loo  ahead  of  any  other  of  the  fifteen  in  the  Institute — 
it  shows  also  that  while  the  running  expenses  of  this  society 
are  double  those  of  any  other,  the  result  in  securing  more  new 
members  than  the  whole  Institute  put  together,  and  at  less  than 
one-fifth  the  cost  per  capita  for  new  members,  justifies  the  ex- 
pense. Modern  business  methods  are  being  applied  by  this  so- 
ciety to  the  service  of  science — the  card  catalogue,  the  mimeo- 
graph, the  "follow-up"  method,  and  so  on. 

Since  last  month's  issue  of  this  magazine  the  following  new 
members  have  been  added: 

Life  member:    Gerhard  Eshman. 

Annual  members: 
Edward   S.   Graham,  Redlands,  Gal.     G.  Seligman, 

Jno.  H.  Norton,  Geo.  Steckel, 

M.  L.  Wicks,  Henry  W.  Louis, 

Chas.  Wier,  W.  H.  Pierce. 

C.  C.  Desmond,  R.  A.  Rowan, 

S.  G.  Marshutz,  All  of  Los  Angeles  except  as  noted. 
West  Hughes, 

*  *     nn 

The  important  task  of  working  up  the  Society's  great  col- 
lection of  folk  songs  is  now  going  forward  rapidly,  and  on  broad 
lines.  Mr.  Arthur  Farwell,  the  eminent  expert,  is  now  in  his 
sixth  month  of  transcribing  and  arranging  this  collection;  and 
this  month  he  will  be  aided  by  Mr.  Harvey  Worthington  Loomis, 
whose  fine  development  of  folk-songs  has  attracted  wide  at- 
tention in  the  East.  The  harmonization  of  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  old  California  songs — to  make  a  "popular"  vol- 
ume, in  addition  to  the  great  collection — presents  many  most  in- 
teresting phases ;  and  the  book  will  cause  a  sensation. 

4t      *      * 

Hon.  Dana  Burks,  its  publisher,  has  contributed  to  the  joint 
use  of  this  Society,  the  Landmarks  Club  and  the  Sequoya  League, 
a  copy  of  the  1905  directory  of  Los  Angeles. 

Edwin  Burritt  Smith,  a  leader  of  the  Chicago  bar,  who  has 
largely  handled  the  transfer  of  our  street  railroads  to  Mr.  Hunt- 
ington, has  presented  to  the  Southwest  Museum  what  is  prob- 
ably the  best  basket  ever  made  by  Campo  Indians.  The  society 
is  gradually  acquiring  a  valuable  nucleus  of  the  more  typical  of 

these  baskets. 

*  ♦    * 

There  are  still  deficits  of  $106.50  in  the  special  fund  to  make 
President  Roosevelt  and  Prof.  Chas.  Eliot  Norton  (founder  of 
the  Institute)  honorary  life  members  of  the  Southwest  Society; 
and  of  $33  in  that  for  the  purchase  of  the  Palmer-Campbell 
collection.  Subscriptions  for  these  two  important  matters  will 
be  gladly  welcomed;  both  funds  should  be  closed  up  before  the 
active  campaign  for  the  Museum,  now  about  to  begin. 


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291 


Redwoods  of  California. 


NATIONAL   BXBCUTIVB  COMMITTBB.  LOS  ANGBLBS  COY7NCIL. 

D«vid Stan  Jofdan.  Pnrident  Stanford  Univcnlty  Pkbst.,  Rt.  Rar.  J.  H.  Johnaoa 

Gm  Mnl  Griiman.  Bd.  •'Forest  aod  Stream."  N  Y.  bxbcutivb  COMMITTBB 

Ctaas.CaasatI>aTla.LMAagel«a  Wajland  H  Smith  (Sec.  of  tbaCouacU) 

C  Hart  Menrtam,  Chief  Moloclcal  Surrey.  Waahington  MbaCoraFoy 

D.  M.  Rloniaii.  Loa  Angelca  Miss  Mary  B.  Warren 

RlclwffdBgan.Ckpl8traao.CaL  Mbs  Katherine  Kurtx.  Secretary 

Chaa.  F.  Lommls.  Chairman  Chas.  F.  Lummto.  Chairman 

ADVnORT  BOARD, 

■la.  Dr.  1 

ArdiUahop  Iidand.  St.  Paol.  Mlkn.  CDr.  Cm.  J. 

U.S.  Senator  Thoa-R.  Bard.  CallfDmla.  " 


Mi«.  Phebe  A.  Hearst.  Unfrerslty  of  CaUlbmla.  Dr.  T.  Mitchell  Pmdden.  Col.  Phys.  and  Swg'aa.  N.  Y. 
-    ?anl.Mlnn.  —    '       ■-    ' 

Rd«wi  E.  AyarTNewberrr  Ubiary.  ddcago.  fTw.  Hodea.~Smiaaoaian  Insitatloa.  Waahlagtan. 
BateUe  Reel.  Snpt.  aO  Indlaa  Schoob.  WaaUngton.  Hamlin  Gatand.  anthor.  Chicago. 


Cal. 


•Dr.  G«o.  J.  Bngvlmann.  Boston. 

Mbs  Alice  C.  FleScher.  Washington. 

F.  W.  Hodge.  Smithsonian  Instttatioa. 

^ . , Hamlin  Gdtend.  andior,  Chicago. 

W.I.  McGee.  Doieau  of  Ethnology.  Mis.  F.  N.  DouMeday .  New  York. 

F.  W.  Putnam.  Peabody  Mnaenas,  Hanraid  CoUsge.  Dr.  WaahlMton  Matthews.  Wasfauvton. 

Stewart  CuUn.  Brooklyn  Inst.  Hon.  A.K.Smllev,  (Mohonk).  Redlands. 

Cm.  a.  Doraey.  Field  Colamblan  Mnaonn.  Chicago.  Geosge  Kennui.  Washlngtan. 

Tnasmer,  W.  C.  Patteraon.  Pvsa.  Lm  Angeles  Natl  Bk. 

LlPB  MBMBNBS. 
AmaHa  B.  HelleBback.  JoeepUne  W.  Dranl.  Thoa.  Scatteigood.  Miss  Mlra  Henh«y.  Mrs.  D.  A.  Sentar.  Hertiert  B. 
Huntington,  Mlaa  Antoinette  E.  Gazsam.  J.  M.  C.  Maible.  Jos^  Pels.  Mis.  Mary  Feb. 

ONTEMPORARY  conditions  at  the  five  Campo  reserva- 
tions— ^whose  critical  distress  has  been  so  generously  re- 
lieved this  year  by  the  public  of  Southern  California; 
while  popular  interest  and  contributions  have  also  awakened  the 
Department  of  the  Interior  to  discover  unsuspected  funds  for 
the  relief  of  the  Indians  whose  suffering  from  hunger  and  cold 
had  been  matters  of  official  record  for  thirty  years— continue  to 
reflect  credit  on  Southern  California  feeling,  and  on  the  business 
methods  by  which  that  feeling  has  been  expressed.  Among  the 
agreeable  features  of  the  case  is  the  fact  that  Mr.  E.  H.  Weegar, 
the  veteran  trader  at  Campo,  the  accredited  agent  of  the  League 
and  a  man  to  whose  justice  and  mercy  the  Indians  are  all  in- 
debted, is  to  retain  his  place.  There  was  a  strong  probability, 
last  month,  that  he  would  leave  Campo.  He  has  now  decided  to 
stay ;  and  both  the  League  and  the  Indians  count  this  good  for- 
tune. 

It  is  always  to  be  remembered,  however,  that  all  these  relief 
measures  are  merely  temporary.  These  Indians  have  been  starv- 
ing for  forty  years  because  crowded  off  the  lands  which  belonged 
to  them,  and  staked  out  on  deserts  inadequate  to  support  human 
beings.  The  permanent  remedy  must  come  from  the  govern- 
ment by  giving  the  lands  upon  which  by  sufficient  hard  work  and 
economy  they  can  refrain  from  starving. 

Indian  Commissioner  Leupp  was  unable  to  visit  these  reser- 
vations this  summer  as  he  had  intended.    Fortunately  U.  S.  Sen- 


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292 


OUT    WEST 


ator  Flint  has  agreed  to  make  a  personal  inspection  of  condi- 
tions on  the  worst  Mission  Indian  reservations;  and  his  knowl- 
edge will  be  of  serious  import  in  Washington.  If  it  had  not 
been  for  the  fact  that  Senator  Bard,  on  his  own  motion,  spent 
several  weeks  in  inspection  of  these  Southern  California  reser- 
vations, it  would  have  been  impossible  to  settle  the  Warner's 
Ranch  case  satisfactorily.  Thanks  to  this  unselfish  attention  of 
a  busy  man,  the  Warner's  Ranch  Indians  were  given  a  better 
home  than  that  from  which  the  Supreme  Court  evicted  them. 
The  like  support  in  Senator  Bard's  successor  promises  as  fortu- 
nate results  for  the  equally  ill-treated  Indians  of  a  dozen  other 
reservations. 

The  Campo  baskets  still  continue  to  sell.  Messrs.  Barker  Bros., 
420-424  South  Spring  street,  have  kindly  undertaken  the  public 
sale  of  them ;  and  Mrs.  Lummis  has  also  a  collection.  It  may  be 
repeated  that  the  League  purchases  for  cash  all  the  baskets  these 
suffering  Indians  can  produce,  and  devotes  all  the  proceeds  to 
their  betterment. 

Contributions  to  the  Work. 

Previously  acknowledged — $  i  ,359.00. 

New  contributions: 

$2.00  each  (membership)--F.  T.  Sutherland,  Georgetown,  Brit  Guiana; 
Col.  Robt.  C  H.  Brock  (Prest  Penna.  Soc  Archaeological  Inst,  of  Amer- 
ica), Maybrook,  Pa.;  Dr.  E.  C.  Buell,  Mrs.  J.  R.  Newberry,  T.  R  Gibbon, 
Mary  Foreman,  Lizzie  H.  Eliel,  T.  L.  Duque,  W.  S.  Heineman,  J.  H.  Martin, 
Miss  Margaret  M.  Felte,  Francis  L.  Braman,  Mrs.  J.  F.  Duane,  Miss  Mary 
P.  Putnam,  Mrs.  E.  M.  Fowler,  Los  Angeles;  Mrs.  Eva  S.  Fenyes,  Pasadena; 
F.  H.  Spearman,  Wheaton,  111. ;  Paul  T.  Brown,  Wm.  H.  H.  Hull,  New  York 
City. 

Indian  Relief  Fund. 

Previously  acknowledged— $1,293.00. 

New  contributions— Mrs.  J.  R.  Newberry,  Los  Angeles,  $10.00;  The  Shake- 
speare Club,  Pasadena,  $10.00;  F.  T.  Sutherland,  Georgetown,  British  Guiana, 
$5.00. 


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THAT  WHICH  IS  WRITTEN  293 


and  the  growing  dessert  of  fame  of  Mary  Austin.  It  is  perhaps  a  little  im- 
pertinent when  periodicals  speak  of  having  "discovered  an  author;"  for 
authors  discover  themselves.  But,  at  any  rate,  this  magazine  may  fairly 
acknowledge  its  responsibility  in  having  given  this  brave  if  somewhat  ingrown 
child  of  the  desert  her  first  encouragement  to  expand. 

Mrs.  Austin's  work  has  had  a  rapid  and  wide  success  of  esteem.  It  is 
not  of  the  hundred-thousand-copies-before-publication  sort,  but  it  is  a  direct 
and  imperative  appeal  to  those  who  can  see  and  understand  and  feel  real 
power. 

It  is  too  early  yet  to  adjudicate  this  far  from  ordinary  writer.  She  has 
the  merits  and  the  defects  of  her  qualities,  and  both  can  be  measured  in 
fairer  proportion  later  on.  Here  are  simply  a  few  words  about  her  latest 
book — now  volumed  forth  from  its  serial  presentment  in  the  "Atlantic 
Monthly." 

**Isidro"  is  an  imprint  of  425  pages  which  is  neither  a  novel  nor  a  short 
story.  More  than  either,  perhaps,  it  is  a  Picture — as  Mrs.  Austin's  work 
thus  far  essentially  has  been,  despite  its  occasional  vehicle  of  a  plot  able 
to  walk  by  itself.  While  it  falls  outside  the  accustomed  categories  of  books 
of  this  length,  there  will  be  few  to  find  fault  because  there  is  so  much  picture 
to  the  story,  or  so  much  story  to  the  picture.  It  has  the  graphic  leisure 
of  a  novel,  twinned  with  what  in  ordinary  hands  would  make  a  short  story 
of  the  regulation  5,000  to  8,000  words.  Yet  it  by  no  means  drags.  There 
is  a  sort  of  sense  of  the  Wilderness  which  carries  the  plot  in  such  proportion 
to  the  painting  that  neither  is  realized  to  overhang  the  other  till  one  sits 
down  afterward  to  analyze  dispassionately. 

Cold-blooded  analysis  is  the  last  thing  this  book  deserves.  It  leaves  a 
good  taste  in  the  mouth — and  that  is  what  fiction  is  for. 

Upon  dissection,  the  story  would  be  found  to  lack  constructive  facility. 
The  stage-setting  art  is  not  mature  in  it.  On  the  other  hand,  neither  does 
it  limp  as  it  runs.  The  worst  fault  of  construction,  from  the  dramatic  view- 
point, is  that  the  pivotal  secret  is  "given  away"  at  the  outset — that  is,  the 
element  of  surprise,  upon  which  all  dramatic  literature,  on  or  off  the  stage, 
largely  depends,  is  here  sacrificed — and  apparently  without  need.  The  reader 
knows  at  once  that  the  lad  is  no  lad  at  all;  it  would  be  vain  to  pretend 
that  keeping  this  secret  longer  would  not  add  to  the  power  of  the  story; 
yet  through  some  sympathetic  quality  we  are  inhibited  from  any  grudge  at 
this  robbery  of  our  proper  prey. 

There  are  many  more  errors  of  nomenclature  than  should  be  in  a  book 
of  California  by  so  competent  a  Californian;  a  few  historic,  but  mostly 
mere  matters  of  type,  such  as  bad  grammar  and  bad  spelling  in  the  Spanish 


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294  OUT    WEST 

words  and  phrases,  which  arc  after  all  used  with  commendable  reserve— the 
worst  (and  this  is  wantonly  unpardonable)  being  "Cahoiallas"  as  an  Indian 
tribe. 

This,  however,  is  detail.  The  one  structural  warning  every  friendly  critic 
must  wish  to  give  Mrs.  Austin  is  to  beware  of  preciosity. 

Almost  from  the  outset  her  diction  has  been  marked  by  an  aptness  so 
uncommon  as  to  carry  and  condone  a  large  amount  of  unusualness.  She 
has  bound  her  dictionary  with  the  skin  of  the  Bible,  and  there  is  no  better 
leather.  On  the  other  hand,  the  more  characteristic  the  style,  the  greater 
is  its  danger ;  and  in  this  book  more  than  in  any  of  its  predecessors  is  visible 
Mrs.  Austin's  temptation  to  3rield  to  the  flattery  of  the  strange  word.  There 
is  life  in  the  fight  for  choice  of  speech,  even  though  it  be  out  of  the  daily 
vernacular;  and  no  English  better  than  that  of  King  James's  wise  men  has 
yet  been  invented.  But  of  a  good  thing,  enough.  They  who  dare  to  diflFer 
from  the  daily  drift — as  we  all  have  the  right  to  do— must  search  themselves 
with  double  care  to  be  sure  that  their  variance  is  for  cause,  and  not  merely 
for  the  sake  of  being  different 

Meantime  "Isidro''  deserves  wide  reading  and  long  remembrance. 

Mr.  Douglas  Wilson  Johnson,  who  will  be  remembered  as  a  contributor 
of  interesting  articles  to  this  magazine,  has  put  forth  a  scholarly  monograph 
of  204  pages  on  "The  Geology  of  the  Cerrillos  Hills,  New  Mexico,"  with 
maps  and  numerous  illustrations  from  photographs  and  drawings.  This 
treatise  (reprinted  from  the  "School  of  Mines  Quarterly")  includes  the  famous 
"Mount  ChalchihuitI,"  the  prehistoric  turquoise  mine  of  New  Mexican 
aborigines. 

Several  years  ago  students  of  Americana  began  to  look  with  prepared  in- 
terest for  anything  from  the  pen  of  Albert  Ernest  Jenks,  Ph.  D.  Beginning 
with  routine  work  on  "The  American  Thresherman"  of  Madison,  Wis.,  Dr. 
Jenks  soon  began  to  give  us  valuable  scientific  studies  like  those  of  "The 
Wild  Rice  Gatherers  of  the  Upper  Lakes,"  etc  Larger  yet,  and  more  im* 
portant,  is  the  ponderous  volume  of  more  than  250  pages,  issuing  from  Df. 
Jenks's  recent  years  of  study  in  the  Philippine  Islands.  This  monograph  on 
The  Bontoc  Igorote,  first  volume  of  the  Ethnological  Survey  publications 
of  the  Department  of  the  Interior  of  the  Philippines — ^is  one  of  the  most 
important  studies  yet  made  in  our  new  colonial  possessions.  Aside  from 
the  text,  which  is  sober  and  scholarly,  the  volume  is  illustrated  with  a  very 
large  number— over  150 — of  excellent  reproductions  of  photographs,  made 
after  scientific  methods.    Manila  Bureau  of  Public  Printing. 

Arisona  Sketches,  by  Jos.  A.  Munk,  M.  D.,  of  Los  Angeles,  is  an  unpre- 
tentious but  handsome  book  of  familiar  writing  about  the  sun-kissed  terri- 
tory with  w[hich  Dr.  Munk  has  been  intimate  for  many  years.  The  volume 
is  illustrated  with  a  large  number  of  interesting  "kodaks"  by  the  author. 
Grafton  Press,  New  York. 

C.  F.  L. 


THB  MOST  A  supreme  vanity,  crucified  yet  undying,  writhing  in  agony  yet 

INCURABLE  Considering   its  audience,   displaying   indeed   a  certain  complacent 

DISEASE  satisfaction  in  the  artistic  perfection  of  its  writhing— this  is  perhaps 
the  most  vivid  impression  left  by  a  reading  of  Oscar  Wilde's  De  Profundis, 
written  while  in  prison  for  unnameable  offenses.  But  this  is  only  the  begin- 
ning of  the  soul  tragedy  disclosed  in  these  pages.    For  here  was  a  man  in 


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THAT   WHICH  IS   WRITTEN  295 

a  hell  which  he  had  contrived  for  himself  out  of  his  own  vanity  and  selfish- 
ness and  lust — the  three  words  are,  after  all,  only  different  ways  of  express- 
ing the  same  thing — and  he  thought  it  was  but  a  bonfire  out  of  which  he 
might  climb  on  the  ladder  of  artistic  self-expression:  "If  I  can  produce 
only  one  beautiful  work  of  art  I  shall  be  able'  to  rob  malice  of  its  venom, 
and  cowardice  of  its  sneer,  and  to  pluck  out  the  tongue  of  scorn  by  its 
roots." 

He  had  to  stand  for  half  an  hour  in  convict  dress  and  handcuffed  on  a 
railroad  platform  surrounded  by  a  jeering  mob,  and  he  records  that  for  the 
next  year  he  **wept  every  day  at  the  same  hour  and  for  the  same  space  of 
time."  If  he  ever  shed  one  tear  for  the  pollution  of  his  own  character,  for 
the  contamination  of  other  lives,  for  any  of  the  evil  that  he  wrought,  he 
does  not  record  it. 

His  mother  died  three  months  after  he  went  to  prison,  and  of  this  he  writes : 
No  one  knows  how  deeply  I  loved  and  honoured  her.     Her  death 
was  terrible  to  me;  but  I,  once  a  lord  of  language,  have  no  words 
in  which  to  express  my  anguish  and  my  shame.     She  and  my  father 
had   bequeathed   me   a   name   they   had   made   noble   and   honoured, 
not   merely   in   literature,   art,  archaeology,   and   science,   but   in   the 
public  history  of  my  own  coimtry,  in  its  evolution  as  a  nation.     I  had 
disgraced  that  name  eternally.     I  had  made  it  a  low  byword  among 
low  people.     I  had  dragged  it  through  the  very  mire.     .    .     .     What 
I  suffered  then,  and  still  suffer,  is  not  for  pen  to  write  or  paper  to 
record. 
Much   about   his   own   suffering — not  a   hint  of  his  mother's  anguish,  not 
over  the  family  name  dragged  in  the  mire,  but  over  the  son  who  had  chosen 
to  wallow  in  the  mire. 

And  now  I  hesitate,  for  it  seems  like  grinding  one's  heel  in  a  dead  man's 
face — but  it  is  his  own  heel  and  the  grist  is  of  his  own  deliberate  grinding. 
He  found  the  study  of  the  Gospels  **a  delightful  way  of  opening  the  day/* 
and  as  the  net  result  of  his  study  he  discovered  "just  two  subjects  on  which 
and  through  which  I  desire  to  express  myself:  one  is  'Christ  as  the  pre- 
cursor of  the  romantic  movement  in  life;'  the  other  is  'The  artistic  life 
considered  in  its  relation  to  conduct.'  " 

I  would  not  have  missed  reading  these  utterances  of  a  soul  in  deeper 
torment  than  it  was  itself  conscious  of — nor  would  I  recommend  it  to  any 
merely  casual  reader.  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons,  New  York;  Stoll  &  Thayer  Co.. 
Los  Angeles. 

Considered  solely  as  amusing  and  entertaining  fiction,  the  sixteen  stories 
by  Alfred  Henry  Lewis,  under  the  title  The  Sunset  Trail,  fill  their  purpose 
admirably.  The  author's  picturesque  style.  Dodge  City  in  the  good  old 
"cattle  days"  for  a  stage  and  the  renowned  "Bat"  Masterson  as  leading 
gentleman,  make  a  combination  that  is  quite  irresistible.  But  Mr.  Lewis 
makes  a  mistake  in  insisting  in  his  introductory  remarks  that  "speaking 
for  its  broader  lines,  this  book  is  true."  That  is  just  what  it  is  not — broadly 
true.  Much  of  its  incident  is  recognizable,  but  one  could  no  more  get  a 
just  and  adequate  conception  of  the  life  of  that  day  and  place  from  Mr. 
Lewis's  fantasies  than  he  could  gather  a  fair  idea  of  the  appearance  of 
contemporary  statesmen  from  Mr.  Davenport's  cartoons.  A.  C.  Barnes  &  Co., 
New  York.    $1.50. 

American  Insects,  by  Vernon  L.  Kellogg,  Professor  of  Entomology  at 
Stanford  University,  "provides  in  a  single  volume  a  general  systematic  ac- 
count of  all  the  principal  groups  of  insects  as  they  occur  in  America,  together 


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296  OUT    WEST 

with  special  accounts  of  the  structure,  physiology,  development  and  metamor- 
phoses, and  of  certain  peculiarly  interesting  and  important  ecological  rela- 
tions of  insects  with  the  world  around  them."  In  interest  to  the  average 
intelligent  reader  (if  I  may  judge  by  myself),  it  is  not  surpassed  by  any 
"nature  book"  yet  published;  Dr.  Kellogg's  scientific  standing  places 
its  accuracy  beyond  question;  the  ilhistrations  (by  Mary  Wellman)  are 
altogether  satisfactory — in  a  word,  the  book  is  of  the  first  importance 
in  its  class.  As  might  be  expected,  special  attention  is  paid  to  the  insects 
of  the  Pacific  Coast.     Henry  Holt  &  Co.,  New  York.    $5  net. 

Probably  the  account  of  the  old  Sanskrit  manuscript,  from  which  F.  W. 
Rain  reports  himself  to  have  translated  the  delightful  tales  contained  in 
A  Digit  of  the  Moon,  is  as  fanciful  as  the  tales  themselves.  Yet  the  author 
is  evidently  adept  in  Hindoo  thought  and  literature,  and  an  unobtrusive 
thread  of  serious  scholarship  is  woven  very  deftly  into  the  fab.ic  of  imag- 
ination. The  book  was  not  written,  however,  to  be  schohrly,  but  to  enter- 
tain— and  in  this  it  is  an  unqualified  success.  It  can  hardly  be  classified  as 
folk-lore,  nor  yet  as  fairy  talcs,  though  it  smacks  of  both,  .^t  nny  rate,  it  is 
altogether  fascinating.  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons,  New  York ;  C.  C.  Parker. 
Los  Angeles.    $1.50. 

Six  lectures  delivered  la.st  year  by  Ru'^scll  Sturgis  before  the  Art  Institute 
of  Chicago  are  now  published  under  the  title  The  Interdependence  of  the  Arts 
of  Design.  Two  of  the  lectures  are  devoted  to  a  comparison  of  modern 
with  ancient  art,  two  more  to  the  industrial  arts,  and  the  final  two  to  sculpture 
and  painting  in  their  relation  to  architecture.  Mr.  Sturgis  is  a  high  author- 
ity in  his  field,  and  the  book,  interesting  even  to  an  entire  outsider,  I  should 
suppose  would  be  of  much  value  to  students.  It  is  a  beautiful  volume  and 
the  illustrations  are  up  to  the  highest  standard.  A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.. 
Chicago. 

For  almost  thirty  years  Sir  Donald  Mackenzie  Wallace's  Russia  has  ranked 
as  one  of  the  most  reliable  and  fullc^^t  sources  of  information  available  in 
English  concerning  that  mighty  empire.  A  new  edition  is  now  published, 
carefully  revised  by  the  author,  rewritten  in  large  part,  and  with  several 
new  chapters  made  necessary  by  recent  occurrences.  This  author  is  by  no 
means  afflicted  with  the  Russophobia  which  seems  to  be  endemic  in  England, 
and  is  cautious  in  his  judgments  and  especially  chary  of  prophecy.  Alto- 
gether it  seems  to  be  a  particularly  useful  volume.  Henry  Holt  &  Co., 
New  York.    $5  net. 

Good  Form  for  Men,  by  Charles  Harcourt,  seems  to  be  a  useful  book  for 
those  who  have  use  for  it.  Certainly  it  may  claim  to  be  reasonably  exhaust- 
ive, containing  advice — and  good  advice — on  such  diverse  subjects  as  "How 
to  take  a  bath,"  "How  to  pass  over  a  misfortune  at  table,"  "How  much  bag- 
gage to  take  along,"  and  ''Weddings,  life  insurance  before,  advisable."  The 
John  C.  Winston  Co.,  Philadelphia.    $1. 

On  the  Firing  Line,  by  Anna  Chapin  Ray  and  Hamilton  Brock  Fuller, 
is  a  romance  of  love  and  war  in  South  Africa.  The  habitual  reader  of  ro- 
mances of  love  and  war  will  find  no  fault  with  this  one.  Little,  Brown  & 
Co.,  Boston.    $1.50. 

The  Millbank  Case,  by  George  Dyre  Eldridge,  is  a  pretty  good  detective 
story,  dealing  with  the  unraveling  of  a  murder  myster>'  in  a  Maine  village 
Henry  Holt  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50. 

Charles  Amadon  Moodv. 


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297 
SALT  LAKE  CITY 

By  EDWARD  F.  COLBURN 

O  INTERNAL  city  of  the  continent  lies  in  such  a  field 
of  beauty,  unites  such  rich  and  rare  elernents  of  natures 
formalions,  holds  such  guarantees  of  greatness,  material 
and  social,  *in  the  good  time  coming; of  our  Pacific 
development.  I  met  all  along  the  plal^  and  over  the 
mountains  the  feeling  that  Salt  Lake  was  to  be  the  great 
central  city  of  the  West." 

So  wrote  Samuel  Bowles,  editor  of  the  Springfield 
(Mass.)  Republican,  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  in  Utah  Territory,  on  the 
14th  day  of  February  1865,  In  the  handful  of  houses  then  lying  here  in  the 
expanse  of  a  far-reaching  desert,  the  great  editor  saw  the  beginning  of  the 
city  which  now  outrivals  in  beauty  and  outranks  in  importance  any  other 
in  the  Rocky  Mountain  empire.  No  other  city  was  ever  founded  in  such 
a  forbidding  region — so  far  away  from  human  habitations — no  other  city 
had  so  much  to  contend  with — the  prejudices  of  both  nature  and  men — the 
odds  of  the  wilderness  and  the  warfare  of  the  creeds.  But  all  these  impedi- 
ments have  been  swept  away,  and  today  Salt  Lake  holds  dominion  over  the 
trade  and  industry  of  an  area  rich  and  productive  enough  to  insure  many 
times  over  the  fulfillment  of  the  prophecy  of  Samuel  Bowles. 

The  coming  to  us  recently,  over  a  direct  railroad,  of  the  representative 
business  men  of  Los  Angeles — a  city  with  which  we  are  to  go  henceforth 
hand  in  hand  in  the  work  of  upbuilding  the  West — makes  the  time  aus- 
picious, for  briefly  and  paragraphically  setting  out  some  of  the  salient  reasons 
why  Salt  Lake  will  expand,  with  ever  increasing  speed,  into  one  of  the 
important  trade,  railroad,  industrial  and  residential  centers  of  the  country. 

It  has  been  said  that  a  tributary  area  of  at  least  300  miles  in  diameter 
is  essential  to  the  building  of  a  city.  Salt  Lake  City  is  the  center  of  a 
region  three  times  that  in  diameter — a  region  containing  a  diversity  of 
resources  such  as  no  other  similar  area  in  the  world  possesses.  These 
resources  are  barely  in  the  beginning  of  their  development,  and  yet,  in  the 
matter  of  mineral  alone,  were  the  annual  output  to  cease,  the  whole  world 
would  be  affected  adversely.  Cities  have  their  best  growth  during  the 
development  of  the  countries  that  surround  them.  Every  discovery  of  metal, 
every  new  utilization  of  native  raw  material,  every  acre  redeemed  from  deso- 
lation and  given  to  the  plough,  adds  to  their  importance. 

With  these  preliminary  remarks  let  us  consider  some  of  the  reasons  for 
Salt  Lake  City's  present  importance,  and  the  reasons  that  prompt  the  belief 
that  the  city  is  just  entering  upon  an  area  of  extraordinary  growth. 

The  principal  mining  of  the  United  States  is  within  her  tributary  country, 
which  consists  of  Western  Colorado,  Western  Wyoming,  all  of  Idaho,  all 
of  Montana,  a  great  part  of  Nevada  and  all  of  Ut^ilL  '  For' five  hundred 
miles  in  every  direction  mineral  mills  and  mines  are  at  work.  They  all 
pay  tribute  to  Salt  Lake  in  one  way  or  another.  No  other  mining  city  of  the 
United  States  is  so  favorably  located.  Denver  is  on  one  extreme  of  the 
mining  region,  San  Francisco  on  the  other,  but  Salt  Lake  City  is  at  the 
very  center.  Wherever  the  districts  are,  they  are  more  conveniently  reached 
from  Salt  Lake  than  from  any  other  point,  and  mining  men  who  operate  in 
British  Columbia,  California,  Arizona  and  Colorado  reside  in  Salt  Lake. 
Every  mine  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  seeks  a  purchaser,  seeks  him 
first  in  Salt  Lake,  where  there  are  millions  of  dollars  available  for  meritorious 
Additional  illustrations  of  Salt  Lake  and  vicinity  will  be  fonnd  on  paffes  2^  and  following, 

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SALT   LAKE   CITY  299 

mining  enterprises.  There  are  streams  of  ore  from  every  direction  flowing 
constantly  to  the  Salt  Lake  smelters,  and  streams  of  money  going  out  of 
Salt  Lake  banks  to  pay  the  miners  and  mining  expenses.  Salt  Lake's  supply 
houses  furnish  all  kinds  of  machinery  and  supplies.  Mining  stocks  are  sold 
in  the  Salt  Lake  Mininp-  Exchange,  and  the  litigation  that  sometimes  un- 
happily arises  over  conflicts  of  territory  is  handled  by  Salt  Lake  lawyers. 

There  must  be  in  every  mining  region  a  home  place  for  the  men*  who  own 
the  mines.  For  the  region  mentioned  Salt  Lake  is  tliat  home  place.  When- 
ever fortune  smiles  upon  the  prospector  and  miner  his  first  thought  is  of  a 
home  in  Salt  Lake.  That  this  is  true  hundreds  of  mansions  in  Salt  Lake 
City,  some  of  which  would  not  be  a  discredit  to  Fifth  Avenue,  will  testify. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  property  line  quite  so  good  to  have  as  a  successful 
mine.  There  is  nothing  quite  so  good  for  a  city  to  have  as  successful 
miners.  Under  their  lavish  touch  mining  centers  grow  in  beauty  and  wealth 
with  almost  Aladdin-like  speed. 

But  not  alone  in  that  way  will  Salt  Lake  profit  from  the  mines.  Ores 
need  to  be  reduced  to  money — and  that  is  done  in  the  smelters.  Nature 
has  been  singularly  prodigal  in  giving  to  Salt  Lake  a  diversity  of  the  ores 
and  fluxes  essential  to  successful  smelting,  and  on*  that  account  Salt  Lake 
has  been  growing  year  by  year  as  a  smelting  center,  until  it  has  become  the 
greatest  in  the  United  States — the  capacity  for  ore  treatment  now  reaching 
5.000  charge  tons  per  day.  And  this,  according  to  Mr.  Samuel  Newhouse, 
will,  within  the  next  two  or  three  years,  be  increased  fourfold,  when  Salt 
Lake  will  have  smelters  that  will  be  treating  600,000  tons  per  month — ^7,200,000 
tons  per  annum — more  ore,  it  is  said,  than  is  raised  every  year  from  the 
mines  of  Colorado.  These  smelters  will  require  thousands  of  men  in  their 
operation,  and  t?hus  will  Salt  Lake  greatly  increase  her  population. 

A  study  of  the  mineral  resources  of  Utah  alone — and  these  are  but  a 
part  of  Salt  Lake's  mining  stock  in  trade^will  amaze  you. 

Here  are  some  facts: 
Estimated  value  of  gold,  silver,  lead  and  copper  ores  now 

exposed  in  Utah    One  Billion  Dollars 

Utah's  total  output  of  gold,  silver,  lead  and  copper  to  the 

present  time    $350,000,000.00 

Total  mineral  product  of  Utah  for  1904 26,536,821.54 

Estimated  product  of  Utah   for  1905 35,000,000.00 

Total  copper  production  of  Utah  for  1904  (pounds) 56,419,969 

Estimated  copper  production  of  Utah  for  1905  (pounds) . .  75,000,000 

Value  of  copper  product  of  Utah  for  1905 $11,250,000.00 

To  appreciate  the  enormous  growth  of  Utah  as  a  copper  state,  the  reader 
is  advised  that  the  total  value  of  all  copper  produced  in  Utah  from  the 
beginning  of  mining  in  1868  to  the  first  day  of  January,  1900,  was  6n!y 
$6,275,290,  whereas,  the  value  of  the  product  for  1904  was  $7,221,756.03,  and 
it  is  estimated  the  value  of  the  product  for  1905  will  be  $11,250,000.00. 

Utah's  birth  as  a  copper  state  really  began  in  1889  with  the  discovery  of 
the  underlying  zone  of  copper  in  the  Bingham  district.  This  zone  has  been 
found  to  extend  over  a  wide  area  of  country.  It  now  supplies  great  smelters 
with  vast  quantities  of  ore.  and  upon  that  zone  some  of  the  greatest  copper 
producers  of  the  United  States  are  located  and  in  operation.  What  has 
been  done  in  Bingham  is  but  an  earnest  of  what  is  to  come.  Competent 
copper  mining  experts,  who  measure  the  world's  area  with  mathematical 
accuracy,  freely  predict  that  within  a  few  years  the  Bingham  district 
will  produce  more  copper  than  any  other  district  in  the  world.  Then  we 
shall  have  a  Butte  and  a  United  Verde  doing  business  on  the  outskirts  of 
Salt  Lake,  and  Bingham  camp  alone — if  all  else  fails  us — will  build  a  city 
here  of  splendid  proportions. 

Value  of  total  gold  product  of  Utah  for  1904 $  6,518,036.46 

Value  of  total  silver  prodtict  of  Utah  for  1904 7i744i979-05 

Value  of  total  lead  product  of  Utah  for  1904 5,020,550.20 

The  total  dividends  paid  by  Utah  mines  to  the  beginning  of  the 

year  1905  approximate   60,000,000.00 

Total  dividends  from  17  Utah  mines  for  1904 4,156,000.00 

These  dividends  were  largely  distributed  among  Utah  people  and  arc 
reflected  in  fine  homes  and  buildings  all  over  Salt  Lake.  The  dividiends 
of  Utah  go  to  make  Utah  a  great  state,  and  Salt  Lake  City  a  great  city ; 
and  these  dividends  increasing,  as  they  will,  year  by  year,  will  more  and 
nK>re  contribute  to  the  splendor  and  the  stabilty  of  both. 

In  this  brief  account  mention  cannot  be  made  of  the  other  products  of       ^ 

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300  OUT    WEST 

the  mines,  such  as  the  hydro-carbons,  sulphur,  gypsum,  lime,  salt,  clay,  etc, 
but  these  have  their  value  and  belong  to  Salt  Lake's  assets. 

Not  alone  upon  mining,  however,  does  Salt  Lake  depend  for  her  present 
prosperity  and  future  greatness.  There  are  great  areas  of  grazing  lands 
covered  with  sheep,  cattle  and  horses.  There  are  many  thousand  acres 
under  cultivation  that  rival  in  productiveness  the  lands  in  the  valley  of 
the  Nile.  There  are  great  farms  and  vineyards  of  enormous  annual  output. 
There  are  industrial  institutions  other  than  smelters,  which  utilize  native  raw 
materials,  and  which  employ  thousands  of  operatives.  Manufacturing  was 
early  taught  in  Utah.  It  was  fhe  thought  of  Brigham  Young  that  Utah 
ought  to  produce  everything  within  her  borders  needed  for  home  use,  and 
from  the  very  earliest  time  the  great  leader  urges  the  people  to  bend  every 
energy  towards  the  development  of  the  state's  manufacturing  interests. 

Climate — that  magic  word  which  has  coaxed  into  Southern  California 
her  teeming  population,  and  made  of  Los  Angeles  a  proud  city  of  residences 
and  a  great  center  of  trade;  climate — that  has  strung  a  string  of  prosperou*? 
cities  and  villages  along  the  Pacific  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Gulf  of 
California — what  has  not  climate  done  for  us?  What  will  it  not  do  for  us 
in  the  future?  There  are  climates  and  climates.  Denver  has  a  climate,  so 
has  Los  Angeles^ — so  has  Salt  Lake.     They  all  differ.     One  is  the  dry  climate 


BAGLB  GATE,   SALT   LAKB  CITY 

a  mile  above  the  tide,  where  the  nerves  are  always  at  work;  one  is  the 
soft,  languorous  climate  within  the.  sound  of  the  ocean  waves,  where  the 
roses  bloom  the  year  around,  and  the  trees  are  always  green,  and  the  yellow 
oranges  send  their  perfume  to  mingle  with  the  fragrance  of  the  flowers. 
But  the  climate  of  Salt  Lake — Salt  Lake — just  high  enough  to  be  where  exhil- 
iration  has  its  home — ^just  low  enough  to  be  where  the  heart  does  not  beat 
too  quickly  and  the  nerves  are  not  high-strung — that,  too,  is  a  climate  to 
c(^njure  with.  It  will  call  many  thousands  to  Salt  Lake  in  the  coming  years. 
It  was  of  it  that  Dr.  Standart,  widely  celebrated  as  a  climatologist,  once  said : 
*Tt  is  the  most  unique  and  wonderful  climate  on  the  face  of  the  globe." 
The  value  of  this  climate  is  evidenced  by  the  roses  on  the  cheeks  of  our 
women  and  the  spring  in  their  step;  by  the  vigorous  development  of  our 
children  and  by  the  energy  and  push  which  every  man  puts  into  his  daily 
tasks.  Add  to  this  the  singular  circumstance  that  here,  four  thousand  feet 
high,  we  have  the  sea  breeze,  and  you  have  given  the  last  touch  to  the 
picture. 

But  something  besides  climate,  something  besides  mineral  resources  and 
manufactories  and  cattle  and  stock  interests  and  agriculture  and  fruit-raising 
has  Salt  Lake.     She  has  attractions  that  are  all  her  own,  of  which  the  Great 

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SALT  LAKE   CITY  301 

Salt  Lake  leads  the  procession.  The  lake  is  one  of  nature's  mysteries.  It 
stretches  over  2,500  miles  of  Utah's  area.  There  is  salt  enough  in  it  for 
all  the  uses  of  mankind  for  all  the  centuries  to  come,  and  the  bath  in  it  is 
something  that  you  cannot  get  anywhere  else  in  the  world,  except  in  the 
Holy  Land,  and  something  to  be  remembered  long,  long  after  you  have 
forgotten  every  other  bath  you  have  ever  taken.  You  cannot  sink  in  Great 
Salt  Lake.  For  those  in  search  of  health  and  novelty  there  is  nothing  like 
it  anywhere.  The  beneficial  and  pleasurable  effect  of  a  bath  in  the  lake,  of 
floating  on  the  buoyant  waters  of  this  miniature  ocean  like  the  flotsam  of 
the   greater   seas,   will    enrich   the   inner    life   of   all   who    undergo    it.    The 


DBSERBT  EVENING  NEWS  BUILDING 

Here  is  published  the  oldest  paper  west  of  the  Missouri  River. 
Its  first  number  was  published  Jane  15, 1S50. 

time  will  come  when  it  will  be  the  Mecca  of  the  pleasure  and  the  health- 
seeker.  Already  there  is  at  Saltair  the  largest  bathing  pavilion  in  the  world, 
and  after  a  while  people  will  live  upon  the  shores  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
during  the  summer  season  as  they  live  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  near 
Los  Angeles.  The  unfolding  of  this  lake  as  a  place  for  summer  cottages 
and  for  enjoyment  will  be  one  of  the  great  factors  in  the  growth  of  Salt 
Lake. 

But  there  are  other  attractions.  In  a  two  hours'  drive  on  a  July  day  you 
can  leave  the  snows  that  crown  the  mountains  looking  down  upon  Salt  Lake 
from  the  east,  and  passing  through  the  temperatures  of  autumn  and  spring, 
pluck  the  summer  flowers  that  grow  on  the  banks  of  the  Jordan. 


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302  OUT    WEST 

There  arc  mountain  resorts  all  around  the  city — little  lakes  that  have 
been  caught  in  the  arms  of  the  hills — streams  that  are  teeming  with  trout 
close  to  where  good  hunting  is  found.  And  there  are  hot  springs  within 
the  city  limits  whose  thermal  and  medicinal  qualities  are  a  cure  for  many 
common  diseases. 

Salt  Lake  has  everything  to  be  found  anywhere  else,  and,  as  will  be  seen 
by  the  foregoing,  has  many  things  besides.  Good  schools,  fine  churches, 
wide  streets,  two  telephone  systems,  and  a  low  tax  rate,  a  low  death  rate, 
good  theatres,  the  great  Mormon  Temple  and  Tabernacle,  and  the  historic 
homes  of  Brigham  Young — ever  of  interest  to  the  stranger  and  the  citizen, 
and,  best  of  all,  90.000  broad,  progressive,  energetic,  honest  people — who 
have  wrung  from  the  desert  its  tribute,  and  who  will  wring  from  the  future 
everything  that  should  be  theirs. 

In  these  latter  days,  however,  railroads  have  something  to  do  with  the 
building  of  cities.  We  have  railroads  in  Salt  Lake  City — one  reaching  to 
Omaha  and  San  Francisco — one  reaching  from  Salt  Lake  to  Denver — one. 
Heaven  be  praised! — reaching  from  Salt  Lake  to  Los  Angeles,  one  to  the 
lake,  one  threading  the   valley  to  the   north,  and   some  more  coming.     The 


SALTAIR  PAVILION 


Western  Pacific  is  to  be  built  from  Sail  Lake  to  San  Francisco,  opening  up 
on  its  way  great  Nevada,  with  its  buried  billions.  This  has  passed  beyond 
conjecture.  It  is  a  fixed  fact,  and  within  three  years  the  road  will  be  com- 
pleted and  will  have  given  to  Salt  Lake  50,000  more  people.  Then  we  have 
the  Moffatt  road  from  Denver  to  Salt  Lake.  This  is  already  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Continental  Divide  and  is  coming  right  along  towards  us.  In 
this  connection  the  statement  is  made  that  when  the  schedule  of  the  "Salt 
Lake  Route"  is  reduced,  as  it  soon  will  be.  to  24  hours,  and  the  MoflFatt 
schedule  of  14  hours  to  Denver  is  in  effect,  Los  Angeles  and  Denver  will  be 
but  38  hours  apart.     Think  of  it!     Isn't  that  shrinking  the  continent  some? 

With  all  these  things,  why  not  a  Greater  Salt  Lake?  Is  there  anything 
that  can  stop  it?  Nevada  is  unfolding  west  of  us,  and  all  the  tributary 
region  around  us  is  developing;  the  American  spirit  has  entered  the  lands 
beyond  the  sea,  and  because  of  it  there  will  soon  be  five  ships  upon  the 
Pacific  for  every  one  that  rides  there  now.  Great  transcontinental  traffic 
will  result,  and  along  the  main  line  of  it,  with  railroads  diverging  in  every 
direction,  will  be  Salt  Lake  City,  now  the  most  beautiful ;  hereafter  not  only 
the  most  beautiful,  but  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  cities  of  the 
United  States. 

It  is  decreed. 


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<2 


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Formerly 

THe   Land    of  SunsHinc 


THE  NATION  BACK  OF  US.  THE  WORLD  IN  FRONT. 


Vol.  XXm,    No.  4.  OCTOBER,  J905. 

Copyrisht  1905.  by  Out  West  Magazine  Co.    All  rights  reserved. 

BEAUTIFUL  HAVASU.  THE  GREAT  ARM 
or  THE  GRAND  CANON 

By  SHARLOT  M,  HALL 

HE  great  plateau  through  which  with  ages  of 
toil  the  Colorado  River  has  hewn  its  mighty 
channel  is  cut  and  seamed  on  all  sides  with 
gorges  and  chasms  that  would  themselves  be 
"Grand."  but  for  the  nearness  of  that  greatest 
gorge  in  the  world,  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Colorado. 

Many  of  them  are  side-canons,  tributaries  to 
the  Chief;  great  arms  reached  out  across  the  barren  upland  and 
among  the  peaks,  as  if  to  embrace  the  clouds  as  they  come  and 
turn  every  raindrop  back  to  the  one  deep,  appointed  channel  by 
which  it  may  reach  the  sea. 

Each  canon  cleft,  each  massive  reach  of  walling  cliff,  has  its 
own  grandeur  and  beauty,  but  of  them  all  none  so  nearly  ap- 
proaches the  mighty  parent  as  the  Cataract,  or  Canon  of  the 
Havasu,  the  deep,  wild,  little-known  home  of  the  Havasupai  In- 
dians, the  People  of  the  Blue  Water. 

In  a  dim  way  the  Havasu  may  be  traced  back  from  its  moth- 
ering gorge  to  the  Bill  Williams  Peak,  almost  a  hundred  miles  to 
the  southward.  In  the  beginning  it  is  a  tiny  spring  against  the 
mountainside,  slipping  into  a  shallow  pool  in  which  the  tall  pines 
are  mirrored ;  but  it  is  a  peculiarity  of  Southwestern  streams  that 
many  of  them  flow  underground  from  source  to  mouth,  coming 

lUastrated  from  pbotorraphs  by  Clarence  H.  Shaw. 


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THE  POOL  BBLOW  BILL  WILLIAMS  MOUNTAINS 

The  beginning'  of  Hdvasu  Canon 


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THE  CANON  OF  THE  HAVASU  309 

to  the  surface  only  occasionally  and  filling  their  rough,  bowlder- 
strewn  channels  perhaps  but  once  in  a  year,  during  some  sum- 
mer cloud-burst. 

For  miles  as  it  works  down  the  mountain  and  cuts  across  the 
wide,  white  plain,  the  Havasu  is  only  a  dim  trail  of  dry  sand  and 
bleached  gray  stones;  but  in  the  geological  period  when  the 
great  canons  were  forming  it  must  have  been  the  gateway 
ihrough  which  a  tremendous  body  of  water  had  outlet. 

The  Cataract  Plain,  over  which  it  makes  its  way,  is  still  a 
broad,  uplifted  basin  strewn  with  fossil  shells;  a  lake  or  sea-bed 
through  whose  limestone  bottom  the  water  has  cut  its  gigantic 


AS  THE  CANON   GROWS 


channel.  The  low  white  hills,  sparsely  tufted  with  dwarfed 
cedars,  carry  beach  marks  along  their  sides  and  under  a  mid- 
summer sun  the  heat-waves  shimmer  and  move  through  the  low, 
wide  washes  like  slow,  idle  waves  of  sluggish  water. 

A  little  farther  back  are  agate  beds  of  wide  extent,  lying  still  in 
shallow  wind-rows,  as  if  worn  smooth  by  the  waves  and  tossed 
up  along  the  edge  of  a  recent  beach. 

The  Upper  Havasu  is  all  in  this  gray-white  limestone,  cut  into 
fantastic  shapes  and  pitted  with  rough  caves  and  fissures — wild 
and  w^eird  for  the  most  part,  in  spite  of  its  strange  beauty.  It 
is  rougher  and  more  difficult  of  access  than  the  deeper  canon 
soon  to  come,  and  its  endless  gray  walls  have  a  sense  of  monot- 
ony; but  as  the  canon  cuts  down  into  the  earth  the  limestone 


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310  OUT    WEST 

forms  only  a  broad,  gray  cloak  for  the  inner  depths  of  rich,  red 
sandstone. 

Great  gorges  come  in  in  bewildering  number  from  the  sides 
and  the  whole  country  is  a  broken  net-work  of  canons  with  sheer 
walls  thousands  of  feet  above  the  narrow,  rocky  bed  at  the  bot- 
tom. The  far-away  top,  terraced  back  in  wild,  irregular  cliffs 
and  chasms  like  the  broken  steps  of  a  giant's  ladder,  is  glowing 
in  the  sunlight,  while  below  it  is  cool  and  dim  as  a  cave  and  the 
great  walls  seem  almost  to  touch  as  they  lean  together.  Big 
bowlders  hang  out  over  the  far  rim,  poised  seemingly  with  such 
lightness  that  a  touch  might  send  them  crashing  into  the  depths 
below,  and  the  scant  thread  of  trail  at  the  bottom  is  filled  and 
turned  aside  a  dozen  times  in  a  hundred  yards  by  those  that  have 
fallen  in  the  past. 


THB  LITTLB  GARDENS  OK  THE  HAVASUPAI 


Far  down  in  this  inner  canon  the  little  spring  comes  to  light 
again,  a  fine  volume  of  sparkling,  steel  blue  water,  and  here  and 
there,  where  the  great  cliffs  pinch  back  a  few  yards,  leaving  little 
level  bits  of  ground,  the  Havasupai  Indians  have  their  homes. 
Every  tillable  spot  is  a  garden,  and  peaches,  melons,  and  squashes 
ripen  by  the  ton. 

There  are  three  miles  of  these  miniature  farms,  then  the  water 
which  has  been  the  life  of  the  fields  plunges  over  the  beautiful 
Navajo  Falls  and  for  the  rest  of  the  way  to  the  Colorado  the 
canon  is  too  narrow  and  rocky  and  difficult  of  access  for  cultiva- 
tion, even  by  the  persistent  Indians. 

Just  above  Navajo  Falls  many  little  springs  deeply  impreg- 
nated with  lime  join  the  Havasu  and  for  the  rest  of  its  way  every- 
thing the  water  touches  is  deeply  coated  with  a  thick,  white  de- 
posit. At  one  side  where  in  the  past  a  large  spring  had  its  course, 
there  is  a  wonderful  white  skeleton  of  a  long-dry  falls ;  the  lime-  . 

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NAVAJO  FALLS 


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BRIDAL  VEIL  FALLS 


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314  OUT    WEST 

coated  roots  and  tendrils  sweeping  down  in  graceful  mimicry  of 
falling  water,  and  veiling  a  grotto  festooned  and  draped  like  a 
fairy  shrine  with  the  snowy  crystal.  Masses  of  oak  leaves  and 
small  twigs  cased  in  the  lime  cover  the  floor,  the  little  leaf-points 
as  distinct  as  on  the  fresh,  green  leaves  fluttering  on  the  bushes 
overhead. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  below  Navajo  Falls  the  Hjxvasu  breaks 
down  a  green  slope  in  a  multitude  of  tiny,  rippling  streams 
which,  sifted  into  sheets  of  pale,  iris-tinted  mist,  unite  again  in 


INDIAN   HOMB   IN   THE    hAvASU 

the  shadowy,  spirit-like  Bridal  Veil  Falls,  beautiful  beyond  de- 
scription. 

The  whole  face  of  the  cliff  is  coated  with  white  incrustations 
in  lace-like  filagree  and  ivory  fretting.  Long  finger-points  reach 
down,  veiled  in  the  shimmering  water  that  plashes  on  other  fin- 
gers thrust  up  from  the  pool  below.  Knots  of  dead  leaves  have 
been  fretted  over  with  the  crystal  and  rise  out  of  the  blue  basin 
like  goblin  faces;  grinning  gnomes  and  pixie  guardians  of  the 
bowl  which,  fringed  with  ferns  and  mosses,  is  always  half  hidden 
in  floating  blue  mist  and  fine-spun  spray. 

It  is  not  strange  that  the  legends  with  which  the  Havasiipai 

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THE  SKBLBTOM  FALLS 

(Formed  by  lime  deposits  from  the  water) 


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ft 


s-  5 

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5 
o 


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THE  CANON  OF  THE  HAVASU  317 

have  invested  their  wild,  remote  home  should  center  here  in  this 
bewitched  cascade,  which,  they  say,  enfolds  the  spirit  of  the  far- 
away ancestress  of  their  people.  The  story  is  told  with  some 
variation,  but  the  simplest  version  has  it  that  in  the  remote  past 
the  people  had  their  home  in  the  forest  along  the  San  Francisco 
Peaks.  A  heavy  blue  mist  settled  over  the  entire  country,  turn- 
ing presently  to  a  great  flood  of  water.  The  chief  sealed  his 
daughter  up  in  a  hollow  log  and  in  the  floating  log  she  was  safe 
until  the  water  went  away,  when  she  came  out  and  finding  no 
people  left  in  her  old  home  traveled  away  across  the  country 
seeking  a  safe  home. 

The  girl  came  to  a  deep  canon  and  climbing  down  into  it  found 
d  spring  of  blue  water  in  which  she  bathed  and  presently  gave 
birth  to  a  son      She  bathed  again  and  gave  birth  to  a  daughter, 


MOONBY^S   FALLS,  BEYOND   WHICH   THE  CAf^ON   IS   NEARLY   IMPASSABLE 

and  from  these  two  the  Havasupai,  or  People  of  the  Blue  Water, 
came.  Later  the  mother  entered  the  pool  and  was  never  seen 
again,  but  those  who  watch  at  night  sometimes  hear  her  voice. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  Bridal  Veil,  the  Havasu.  gath- 
ered into  a  compact  body,  sweeps  with  a  tremendous  rush  over  a 
broad  ledge  and  drops  two  hundred  feet  without  a  break.  This 
is  Mooneyes  Falls,  taking  the  name  from  a  too-venturesome  vis- 
itor who  lost  his  balance  in  peering  over  the  edge  and  toppled  to 
his  death. 

It  is  impossible  to  reach  the  bottom  of  the  caiion  below 
Mooney's  Falls  except  by  a  long  detour  and  for  the  remaining 
seven  miles  of  its  course  to  the  Colorado  the  Havasu  tumbles  in 
a  series  of  headlong  cataracts  through  a  wild  and  difficult  gorge 
little  known  until  recent  mining  discoveries  led  prospectors  to 
construct  a  rude  but  possible  trail. 

Ivos  Angeles 


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319 
A  HUMMING  BIRD'S  NEST 

By  M.  G,  JENISON 

^  N  "Riverby/'  Mr.  Burroughs 
^  tells  of  a  sparrow  who 
built  her  nest  in  a  grape 
arbor,  in  such  a  position  that 
there  was  suspended  over  it 
a  partially  grown  bunch  of  grapes. 
The  grapes  developed  more  rap- 
idly than  the  eggs  and  entered 
the  nest,  filling  it  so  completely 
that  before  the  little  birds  came 
the  mother  bird  was  crowded  out 
of  the  nest  and  forced  to  abandon 
her  eggs. 

A  pair  of  California  humming 
birds  that  I  became  interested  in 
were  wiser  in  their  selection  of  a 
locality  for  their  nest,  but  their 
choice  was  probably  unique. 
After  watching  the  movements  of 
this  pair  of  beauties  among  the 
flowers,  I  felt  sure  they  had  some- 
thing of  special  interest  in  a  near- 
by peach  tree,  where  upon  inves- 
tigation I  discovered  their  nest 
located  on  a  partly  grown  peach, 
the  upper  portion  attached  to  the 
branch,  on  which  was  growing  the 
fruit.  It  was  constructed  of  deli- 
cate fibres,  some  of  which  looked 
like  spiders'  webs ;  with  these 
were  shorter  ones  probably  taken 
from  flowers,  all  closely  inter- 
woven, forming  a  compact  struc- 
ture of  a  delicate  brown  color  re- 
sembling silk,  which  measured  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  across  the  top, 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep  in- 
side, and  an  inch  and  a  half  out- 
side depth  to  the  peach. 

The  nests  of  these  beautiful  lit- 
tle birds  vary  somewhat  in  form 
.  in    diflferent    locations.      Some    I 


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320  OUT    WEST 

have  found  were  covered  with  bits  of  lichens,  evidently  with 
the  object  of  making  them  more  obscure. 

The  builders  of  the  nest  on  the  peach  did  not  appear  at  all  dis- 
turbed by  my  visits,  the  female  keeping  her  position  on  her  two 
white  eggs,  although  I  was  frequently  near  enough  to  have 
touched  her  with  my  hand.  The  male  would  spend  his  time 
among  the  flowers,  occasionally  perching  on  a  wire  over  the 
kitchen  window,  where  he  would  peer  in  as  if  curious  to  see 
what  was  going  on.  At  other  times  he  would  alight  on  a  branch 
of  the  wistaria  near  my  chair  on  the  porch,  as  if  seeking  a  closer 
acquaintance.  But  he  never  forgot  his  pretty  companion  and 
frequent  were  the  trips  to  the  peach  tree.  I  cannot  say  he  would 
sing  to  her,  as  only  one  kind  of  humming  bird  has  the  ability  to 
sing,  and  that  is  found  in  Costa  Rica,  but  nearly  all  are  gifted 
with  a  squeaking  noise  which  might  be  called  almost  anything. 
If  any  other  bird  invaded  what  this  couple  claimed  as  their  do- 
main there  was  trouble  in  the  air;  for  humming  birds  are  pugna- 
cious little  creatures  and  do  not  hesitate  to  attack  a  larger  bird 
as  well  as  one  of  their  own  order. 

In  due  time  the  young  birds  appeared  and  strange  looking 
specimens  they  were — tiny  bits  of  flesh  with  a  bill  attached. 
When  the  mother  bird  fed  them  it  actually  looked  as  if  she  were 
going  to  impale  them  on  her  bill  as  she  thrust  it  down  their  di- 
minutive throats  when  the  food  was  regurgitated  for  their  benefit. 
The  diet  of  these  birds  does  not  consist  exclusively  of  the  sweets 
of  the  flowers,  but  includes  insects. 

The  rapid  growth  of  the  young  birds  made  extra  room  neces-  ' 
sary  and  this  was  obtained  by  building  a  rim  or  border  onto  the 
nest,  which  helped  to  keep  the  little  ones  from  falling  out.  But 
before  many  days  they  had  on  their  beautiful  new  suits,  and  one 
morning  when  I  went  to  them  they  were  on  the  Q(\gt  of  the 
nest,  fluttering  their  wings  as  if  they  were  testing  their  strength. 
The  next  morning  there  was  a  vacant  nest  and  I  saw  these  four 
**winged  jewels"  flitting  about  among  the  flowers,  enjoying  their 
new  life  together. 

Los  Ang-eles 


THE  MADRONO 

By  GEN  ELLA  FITZGERALD  NYE 

Y^IKE  some  young  slender  Indian  maid, 
j^     Upstarting  from  the  thicket's  shade, 

Her  bright  limbs  gleaming  through  the  wood, 
The  sunset-hued  Madrono  stood. 

NashviHe,  Teno. 


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321 
MARIN'S  UNTRAVELED  ROAD 

By  D.  DONOHOE,  JR, 

HE    best   constructed    road    in    Marin 
County  is  not  traveled  by  wheeled 
vehicles   once   a   year,   and   its   very 
existence  is  unknown  to  ninety-nine 
out  of  every  hundred   persons   who 
make   this  picturesque  suburb  their 
home,  or  who  sojourn  there  during 
the  summer  months.     And  yet  this 
road   is  five   miles  in   length   and   it 
traverses    some    of    the     most    en- 
trancing scenery  that  the  Coast  Range  has  to  offer.    Every  Satur- 
day and   Sunday,  hundreds  of  sight-seers  from   San   Francisco 
drive  past  the  modest  gate-way  which  gives  access  to  this  road, 
oblivious  of  the  deep,  shady,  well-watered  canons  and  clumps  of 
stately  sequoias  that  lie  just  out  of  sight  around  a  point  of  cin- 
namon-colored country-rock;  and  even  the  walking  clubs  have 
not  stumbled  upon  it  in  their  many  wanderings. 

The  gate  is  about  half  a  mile  beyond  the  little  village  of  Fair- 
fax and  it  opens  off  the  highway  that  stretches  from  San  Rafael 
to  White's  Hill  and  northward.  Beyond  the  gate,  the  road  runs 
across  a  tiny  wheat  field  and  then  with  a  steady  gradient,  two 
feet  in  every  lOO  feet — it  skirts  a  cool,  dark  canon,  fragrant  with 
buckeye   bloom,   and   meanders   ever  upward   through   redwood 


MT.  TAMALPAI8,  PKOM  THB  WHEAT  PIBLD 


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THB  FIRST  GLIMPSE  OF  TAMALPAIS 


groves,  over  purling  streams  crossed  by  rustic  bridges,  circling 
the  spurs  of  Loma  Alta  mountain  and  turning  and  twisting  in 
and  out  among  the  gulches  until  the  wayfarer  has  to  look  sharply 
at  the  sun  every  other  moment  to  keep  his  reckoning.  Of  a 
sudden  the  road  bursts  forth  from  the  wood  and  winds  through  a 
sun-kissed  meadow  alive  with  a  myriad  wild  flowers.  Larkspur 
and  wild  hollyhock,  corn-colored  monkey-flower,  ''Ithuriers 
Spear"  of  vivid  purple,  sheets  of  scarlet  flame  where  the  Indian 
Pink  clusters  thickest,  yellow  daisies  vying  with  the  richer  gold 
of  the  California  poppy,  sun-flowers  innumerable,  and  thickets  of 
lilac  iris — a  fantasy  of  color  long  to  be  remembered !  The  fresh 
intoxicating  mountain  air,  filtered  and  purified  by  its  dallyings 


A  VIBW  FXOM  TBB  XOAD 


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324  OUT    WEST 

in  groves  of  pine  and  redwood,  drinks  deep  of  the  multi-scented 
fragrance  of  this  wild  garden  so  incomparably  more  beautiful 
than  any  garden  planted  by  man;  and  here  the  wayfarer  rests 
awhile  in  rapt  contemplation  of  the  unmarred  outline  of  old 
Tamalpais  lined  against  the  southern  sky.  No  finer  view  of  this 
grand  old  mountain  can  be  obtained  anywhere  than  that  from 
this  flowery  meadow.  Gazing  across  a  network  of  interlaced 
canons  far  beneath  him,  the  sight-seer  faces  the  entire  northern 
profile  of  the  mountains,  and  every  gulch,  ravine,  spur  and  rocky 
promontory  are  clearly  defined  in  the  mellow  sunlight.  Thence 
the  road  winds  steadily  upward  through  other  meadows  starred 


THE    END  OF  THE   ROAD 


with  blossoms,  losing  itself  repeatedly  in  the  wildwood,  until 
it  ends  abruptly  in  a  great  forest  of  redwoods  near  the  summit 
of  the  mountain.  At  the  foot  of  one  of  these  giants,  a  crystal- 
clear  stream  gurgles  forth — well  known  to  the  shy  deer  that 
haunt  the  mountain  side,  as  their  countless  foot-prints  testify. 
The  waters  of  this  embowered  fountain  contain  iron  and  sulphur. 
In  the  old  days  before  the  white  man  came,  this  was  a  favored 
resort  of  the  Indians,  and  the  crumbling  roof  of  what  was  once 
a  sweat-house  may  still  be  discerned  near  the  spring. 

The   comparatively   few — herdsmen   chiefly,   sportsmen    more 
rarely — whose  wanderings  have  led  them  to  this  great  wide  road 

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326  OUT    WEST 

have  wondered  greatly  at  it,  for  to  their  matter-of-fact  minds  it 
seemed  that  it  began  nowhere  and  ended  at  nothing,  and  more- 
over, obviously  enough,  it  must  have  cost  much  money.  The 
enigma,  however,  is  not  of  difficult  solution.  The  mountain  is 
called  Sais  Mountain  after  a  native  California  family,  its  original 
owners.  Many  years  ago,  charmed  by  the  marvelous  view  of 
Tamalpais,  the  profusion  of  wild  flowers,  the  ever-changing 
beauties  of  the  redwood  forests  and  the  purity  and  crispness  of 
the  mineral  spring,  Mrs.  Phebe  A.  Hearst  bought  the  tract  and 
caused  this  road  to  be  built  from  the  highway  to  the  summit. 
The  engineer  did  his  work  well  and  preserved  a  uniform  grade 
throughout.  He  built  it  to  last  and  it  has  lasted,  but  today  its 
stony  surface  rings  to  the  beat  of  deer  hoofs  and  the  tiny  brush 
rabbits  scamper  through  its  well-arched  culverts. 
San  Francisco. 


TAVERN  or  THE  SUN 

By  KATHRYN  A.   TURNEY 

jr^ERE  in  this  tavern  of  the  sun, 
^^Vm      The  golden  moments  idly  run ; 
^^  Here  you  will  find  no  careful  host, 

Who  fairest  greets  who  pays  the  most; 

Here  is  no  need  of  bolt  or  key, 

The  door  stands  open  wide  and  free 

To  whatsoever  guest  may  be. 

The  toad  sits  blinking  in  the  sun, 
Black  spiders  creep,  or  slowly  run, 
As  being  not  too  much  in  haste 
Their  heritage  of  life  to  waste. 

Hither  the  vagrant  butterfly 
Lights  while  he  lists,  then  flutters  by; 
Here  on  the  trunk  of  this  old  tree, 
Basks  the  brown  lizard,  or,  maybe. 
Another  beggar  man  like  me. 

So,  smoothly  all  my  sands  are  run 
Here  in  this  tavern  of  the  sun. 

There  may  be  those  who  would  despise 
A  dwelling  open  to  the  skies ; 
But  where  for  me  a  softer  bed. 
Or  keener  relish  for  my  bread  ? 

Let  others  wear  their  hearts  away, 
Chasing  the  bubbles  of  a  day, 
Or  barter  blood  and  brains  to  save 
A  golden  lining  for  a  grave. 

For  me,  I  neither  grasp  nor  grieve, 
Future  and  past  alike  I  leave; 
Whatever  lot  may  come  to  me 
Can  neither  worse  nor  better  be. 

Los  Aareles 


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WHBRB   THE  CATTLR  DRINK 


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329 
THE  ELUSIVE  FISH  OF  DEDALOC 

By  MARGARET  TROILI 

^HAT   was  a   gray,   repressed   morning  on 
which  we  started  up-river  to  fish. 

Fishing  demands  the  same  attitude  of 
mind  as  a  religious  ceremony.  One's 
thoughts  should  be  hushed,  reverential — 
one's  whole  being  tinged  through  with  faith 
that  waits  and  yet  expects  to  be  disap- 
pointed. We  were  cheerful,  but  not 
puflfed  up  with  vain  pride  over  the  big  and 
many  fish  we  were  to  catch.  And  so  we 
went  along  under  the  quiet  alders  till  we 
came  to  the  deep,  deep,  green  pools  that 
draw  their  waters  from  the  Yggdrasils 
of  the  w^oods.  With  a  pledge  to  the 
morning,  we  cast  in  our  hooks. 
There  was  a  bird  or  two  chirping  among  the  trees  on  the  ridge 
beyond,  and  the  river  gurgled  in  the  riffles.  The  sky  bent  over 
the  soft,  deep  green  of  the  woods  with  a  devotional  gray. 

The  grasshoppers,  caught  in  the  mesquite  on  the  hill  yesterday, 
are  lowered,  and  you  watch  them  as  they  dangle  down  to  the  pisca- 
torial breakfast  table.  You  expect  the  trout  to  accept  without 
question    such    providential   early    dishes — but,    alas!    though    thev 


WHERE   IT   NESTLES  TO   REST" 


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330  OUT    WEST 

gather  in  large  family  groups  about  the  pendent  hopper,  they  will 
not  even  nibble,  but  turn  away  with  a  single  disdainful  flirt  of  their 
tails. 

But  the  river  is  long,  and  there  are  many  singing  shallows  where 
it  hurries,  and  many  green  pools  where  it  nestles  to  rest.  You  pick 
up  your  can  of  hoppers  and  set  it  down  many  times  in  that  one  fore- 
noon. And  at  last  the  river  runs  through  your  head,  and  the  rifBes 
gurgle  in  your  ears,  and  the  green  trees  look  over  your  shoulder, 
while  your  eyes  spear  the  fish  with  desire.  But  the  green  crystal  is 
a  perfect  insulator,  for  they  appear  to  move  unhampered. 


**WHBKB  THB   ALDBRS  DIP  TBBIR   FINGBRS** 

There  is  a  place  where  the  stream  runs  up  to  the  ridge,  then 
turns  under  alders  that  dip  their  fingers  in  it,  and  there  the  trout 
ciart  up  and  down,  mere  black  suggestions.     We  saw  them,  but — ! 

And  there  was  a  pool,  a  clear  shallow  one  under  a  shelving  rock, 
where  lay  fish  'by  fish  in  assorted  sizes.  Gently,  my  hook !  tempt- 
ingly, my  hopper!  Not  even  a  line  abbreviated  to  two  feet,  and  a 
bait  dropped  on  their  noses,  could  convince  those  fleet  scaly  ones 
that  it  would  profit  them  to  open  their  mouths. 

There  is  a  bush  by  a  foot-log,  and  under  the  bush  a  gurgly  hole. 
There  the  hopper  sinks,  safe  from  the  pursuing  hoodoo  of  your 
eyes.  Lo!  ja  twitch,  a  thrill,  a  jerk,  and  up  he  cometh,  the  silver  one. 
But,  alas,  he  goeth  also,  and  sinks  again,  and  the  disappointment 
shocks  you  back  to  consciousness.  Your  eyes  are  set  in  circles  of 
weariness,  and  there  is  a  limpness  from  your  shoulders  down. 


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THE  ELUSIVE  FISH  OF  BEDALOC  331 

You  know  there  are  more  pools  up  river,  but  it  is  now  two  miles 
back  to  camp.  The  Izaak  Walton  of  the  party  will  tell  you,  as  you 
sit  down  to  a  late  dinner,  and  ask,  "What  is  the  matter  with  the 
fish?    I  could  see  them,  but  they  would  «iot  bite.*' 

"Why,  you  have  no  animal  magnetism." 

**Oh,  but  I  wanted  them.  I  looked  at  them  with  the  force  of  a 
concentrated  will  in  my  eyes." 

"That's  your  mistake.  You  should  let  it  concentrate  in  your 
fingers." 

Oh,  well,  but  you  had  the  morning,  anyway. 

lufi-lewood,  Meadociao  Co.,  Cal. 


THE  STREAM 

By  ROBINSON  JEFFERS 

^g^itHERE  is  a  stream  far  up  the  mountams, 
^^  Thro'  slumbrous  canon  solitudes, 

That  flows  unnamed  from  unknown  fountains 
Beneath  the  eternal  peaks  it  passes, 
Sweet  with  sharp  scent  of  tall  spiced  grasses, 
Making  low  laughter  in  the  woods. 

Great  fronded  ferns  soft-steeped  in  slumber 
Lean  on  its  edge,  to  stay  and  cumber, 

Their  lustrous  lang'rous  leaves  half  furled ; 
Higher  and  higher,  far  above  it, 
The  ancient  mountains  know  not  of  it, 

Unmoved,  remote,  beyond  the  world. 

Thro'  summer  noontides  hot  and  glowing, 
Beside  the  lonely  waters  flowing, 

Spring's  coolness  lingers  with  fair  shade ; 
And  in  the  midnight's  heavy  vastness 
The  stream  sings  down  its  rocky  fastness, 

And  makes  sweet  music,  unafraid. 

At  dawn  with  ghostly  flags  and  horses 
Like  some  old  king's  long-buried  forces, 

The  silent  mists  go  up  the  vale : 
The  great  grey  winds  blow  calmness  thither, 
And  there  are  flowers  that  never  wither, 

And  smooth  small  leaves  that  never  fail. 

So  when  the  plain  glooms  dull  and  dreary, 
And  when  one's  heart  is  sadly  weary 

With  the  day's  heat  and  the  day's  fret. 
One  might  seek  peace  and  find  her  yonder, 
Where  waters  wild  and  wet  winds  wander, 

And  having  found,  one  might  forget. 

MAohmtuu  Beacta,  Cul, 


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332 

THE  GODFATHER  OF  "LITTLE  BREECHES" 

11 LE  the  Nation  was  still  in  mourning  for  Col- 
onel John  Hay,  who,  great  statesman  and  diplo- 
mat though  he  was,  will  yet  live  longer  in  the 
hearts  and  on  the  lips  of  his  countrymen  as  a 
poet,  the  poet  of  a  section — of  the  homely, 
kindly,  simple,  yet  keen-minded  pioneers  of  tl:e 
Middle  West — two  white-haired  men  met  in 
Los  Angeles  and  discussed  as  no  other  men  living  could  do  the  in- 
cident which  gave  the  **Pike  County  Ballads"  to  the  world. 

Ephraim  H.  Winans  and  Henry  B.  Heacock  have  been  Cali- 
fornians  for  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century,  but  in  1863  they 
were  brother  ministers  in  the  Methodist  church  in  the  state  of 
Iowa,  and  Mr.  Winans  was  conducting  a  Ministerial  Association 
in  the  little  village  of  New  Virginia.  It  was  in  April,  the  frost 
just  out  of  the  ground,  the  mud  still  deep — a  dark,  rainy,  in- 
hospitable night.  Mr.  Heacock  had  just  risen  in  the  pulpit  and 
read  the  opening  lines  of  the  hymn: 

*' Forever  with  the  Lord ! 
Amen!  So  let  it  be — " 


KBV.    HBMRY   B.    HEACOCK 


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THE  GODFATHER  OF  ''LITTLE  BREECHES''       333 

when  the  door  of  the  church  was  flung  open  and  a  man  burst  in, 
panting  and  excited  and  asking  incoherently  for  a  horse. 

When  he  became  calmer  he  said  that  he  had  just  driven  up 
to  the  door  in  a  farm  wagon  and  had  helped  out  his  parents  and 
wife  when  his  team  took  fright  and  swept  away  in  the  darkness, 
carrying  with  them  his  four-year-old  son,  clinging  to  the  wagon 
seat.  As  the  father  told  his  story  and  asked  for  help  in  finding 
the  child,  some  one  in  the  congregation  said,  *'Let  us  all  join  in 
prayer  for  his  safe  recovery;"  but  Mr.  Winans  sprang  to  his  feet 
and  cried,  "Let  the  weaker  ones  pray,  but  let  all  the  able-bodied 
get  torches  and  join  the  search.'* 


BPHRAIM    H.    WINANS 


The  meeting  was  broken  up;  the  mother  and  grandparents  of 
the  lost  baby  took  shelter  in  a  near-by  cabin  and  with  the  weaker 
members  of  the  congregation  prayed,  while  the  men  were  going 
up  and  down  the  country  roads  in  the  darkness,  searching  and 
calling.  The  track  of  the  runaway  was  traced  across  the  fields 
to  a  gully  where  the  wagon  was  found  half  overturned,  one 
horse  down  in  the  mud,  his  mate  standing  beside  him. 

But  the  child  was  not  there,  nor  near,  and  by  the  fast-dying 
torches  no  track  or  trace  of  him  could  be  found.  One  of  the  men 
remembered  an  old  cabin  standing  in  a  field  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
away,  from  which  they  might  get  dry  wood  for  fresh  torches.  He     , 

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THB  GODFATHER  OF  "LITTLE  BREECHES*'      335 

led  the  searching  party  there  and  they  tried  the  door,  but  found  it 
closed.  Some  sheep  were  bleating  inside  and  the  men  supposed 
that  some  one  had  penned  them  there  for  shelter  during  the 
rainy  night. 

One  of  the  young  men  was  lifted  on  the  shoulders  of  his  friends 
and  managed  to  kick  his  way  through  the  gable  of  the  cabin  into 
the  garret  loft.  He  flung  out  dry  material  for  torches  and  then 
cried  to  the  men  below  to  be  still;  that  he  heard  the  voice  of  a 
child  in  the  room  underneath.  They  replied  that  he  had  mis- 
taken the  bleat  of  a  lamb  for  the  voice  of  a  child,  but  at  his  urging 
went  back  and  tried  the  door  again.  It  yielded  and  from  out 
the  warm,  soft  huddle  of  sheep  a  little  voice  cried,  "Here  I  am, 
papa !" 

Not  the  words  that  John  Hay  put  in  the  mouth  of  "Little 
Breeches,"  but  they  set  the  searchers  to  singing  the  old  Meth- 
odist Doxology,  "Praise  God  from  whom  all  blessings  flow,"  in  a 
great  chorus  that  carried  the  joyful  news  across  the  dark,  stormy 
night  to  the  mother  praying  in  the  little  cabin  by  the  church. 

In  1869  Mr.  Winans  returned  to  his  old  home  in  Warsaw,  111., 
and  dined  at  the  home  of  his  old-time  friends,  the  Hays.  In  the 
evening  the  family,  including  John  Hay,  went  with  Mr.  Winans 
to  the  Presbyterian  church,  where  Mr.  Winans  preached  a  sermon 
on  "Divine  Providence,"  taking  for  his  text :  "He  shall  give  his 
angels  charge  concerning  thee,  and  in  their  hands  they  shall  bear 
thee  up,  lest  at  any  time  thou  dash  thy  foot  against  a  stone." 

In  the  course  of  the  sermon  he  told  the  story  of  the  lost  child 
and  John  Hay  listening  found  the  inspiration  for  the  "Pike 
County  Ballads."  Years  later,  when  he  was  Secretary  of  State, 
John  Hay  told  the  story  of  that  inspiration  to  his  long-time  friend, 
George  Gary  Eggleston. 

"As  I  sat  there  in  that  summer  Sunday,  I  fell  to  thinking  over 
the  story  and  of  the  impression  the  circumstance  must  have 
made  on  the  minds  of  the  people  who  witnessed  it.  I  thought  of 
Pike  County,  of  Pike  County  methods  of  thought,  and  of  what 
impression  such  a  story  would  make  upon  the  peculiar  Pike 
County  mind. 

"There  are  two  Pike  Counties,  you  know,  one  in  Illinois  and 
the  other  confronting  it  across  the  Mississippi  in  Missouri;  but 
the  population  of  the  two  are  quite  alike — isomeric,  as  the  chem- 
ists say — and  they  have  a  speech  and  a  point  of  view  and  a  way 
of  thinking  of  their  own.  When  I  went  out  of  church  I  was  full 
to  the  lips  of  the  Pike  County  version  of  "Little  Breeches"  and 
on  the  train,  as  I  journeyed  to  New  York,  I  wrote  the  ballad. 

"I  did  it  merely  as  a  matter  of  amusement,  and  had  not  the 
slightest  thought  of  printing  it.     But  I  showed  it  to  Whitelaw 


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336  OUT    WEST 

Reid  and  he  immediately  published  it  in  the  Tribune.  By  that 
time  I  had  got  myself  into  the  swing  of  the  Pike  County  Ballad, 
and  within  a  week  I  wrote  'y\m  Bludso'  and  'Banty  Tim'  and  all 
the  rest  of  them." 

Mr.  Eggleston  then  asked  Mr.  Hay  why  he  had  written  noth- 
ing more  in  this  vein,  reminding  him  that  he  himself  had  offered 
Mr.  Hay  a  large  sum  for  a  ballad  to  be  used  in  a  periodical  which 
Mr.  Eggleston  was  editing. 

Mr.  Hay  had  replied  that  he  was  utterly  incapable  of  writing 
the  ballad  and  said  further:  "After  that  week  in  which  'Little 
Breeches/  'Banty  Tim/  *y\m  Bludso'  and  the  rest  were  written  I 
had  absolutely  no  further  impulse  in  that  direction — there  was  no 
possibility  of  another  thing  of  the  kind." 

In  July,  1897,  this  magazine,  then  "The  Land  of  Sunshine/' 
printed  a  statement  of  the  incident  which  inspired  the  famous 
poem  and  the  editor,  referring  to  Mr.  Hay's  indifference  con- 
cerning the  ballads  which  made  his  fame,  said :  "However  much 
their  author  may  look  down  upon  those  first  achievements,  it  is 
not  the  'Life  of  Lincoln'  but  the  'Pike  County  Ballads'  that  have 
been  his  making.  As  a  troubador  of  Pike  he  was  and  will  re- 
main a  classic;  and  but  for  an  lowan  now  gracefully  growing 
gray  in  Los  Angeles  there  would  have  been  no  'Little  Breeches' 
— for  Hay's  masterpiece  rests  upon  a  true  story." 

For  the  refreshing  of  those  who  may  have  forgotten,  the  poem 
follows : 

I  don't  go  much  on  religion, 

I  never  ain't  had  no  show; 
But  I've  got  a  middlin'  tight  grip,  sir, 

On  the  handful  o'  things  I  know. 
I  don't  pan  out  on  the  prophets 

And    free-will,    and    that    sort    o'    thing — 
But  I  b'lieve  in  God  and  the  angels, 

Ever  since  one  night  last  spring. 

I  come  into  town  with  some  turnips, 

And  my  little  Gabe  came  along — 
No  four-year-old  in  the  county 

Could  bcDt  him  for  pretty  and  strong. 
Peart  and  chipper  and  sassy, 

Always  ready  to  swear  and  fight — 
And  I'd  larnt  him  to  chaw  terbacker 

Just  to  keep  his  milk-teeth  white. 

The  snow  came  down  like  a  blanket 

As  I  passed  by  Taggart's  store; 
I  went  in  for  a  jug  of  molasses 

And  left  the  team  at  the  door. 
They  scared  at  something  and  started — 

I  heard  one  little  squall, 
And  hell-to-split  over  the  prairie 

Went  team,  Little  Breeches,  and  all. 


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ANGELICA,  THE  DRAGON  337 

Hell-to-split  over  the  prairie; 

I  was  almost  froze  with  skecr; 
But  we  rousted  up  some  torches, 

And  searched  for  'em  far  and  near. 
At  last  we  struck  horses  and  wagon. 

Snowed  under  a  soft  white  mound, 
Upsot — dead  beat — but  of  little  Gabe 

No  hide  nor  hair  was  found. 

And  here  all  hope  soured  on  me, 

Of  my  fellow-critters'  aid, 
I  jest  flopped  down  on  my  marrow-bones, 

Crotch  deep  in  the  snow  and  prayed. 
*****         41 

By  this,  the  torches  was  played  out, 

And  me  and  Isrul  Parr 
Went  off  for  some  wood  to  a  sheep-fold 

That  he  said  was  somewhar  thar. 

We  found  it  at  last,  and  a  little  shed 

Where  they  shut  up  the  lambs  at  night. 
We  looked  in  and  seen  them   huddled  thar. 

So  warm  and  sleepy  and  white; 
And  thar  sot  Little  Breeches  and  chirped. 

As  pert  as  ever  you  see, 
"I  want  a  chaw  of  terbacker," 

And  that's  what's  the  matter  of  me. 

How  did  he  get  thar?    Angels! 

He  could  never  have  walked  in  that  storm; 
They  jest  scooped  down  and  toted  him 

To  whar  it  was  safe  and  warm. 
And  I  think  that  saving  a  little  child. 

And  fotching  him  to  his  own, 
Is  a  demed  sight  better  business 

Than  loafing  around  the  Throne. 


ANGELICA,  THE  DRAGON 

By  MABEL  AVERY  RUNDELL  ABBOTT 

[MALL  Man!    What  do  you  think  I  found?" 

Sunshine  and  mother  came  into  the  room  to- 
gether. 

He  had  been  thinking,  that  Small  Man,  as 
he  lay  and  looked  at  the  sky  from  his  pillow — 
he  had  been  thinking  that  it  was  a  weary 
morning;  that  it  was  not  good  of  the  sky  to 
wake  up  cross,  and  scowl  so,  when  a  little  boy's  head  ached  and 
he  was  always  so  very  tired.  Mother  had  been  taking  her  walk 
in  the  garden.  She  went  every  morning  for  half  an  hour.  "J^st 
a  nonsense  notion  of  the  doctor's,"  she  said,  **but  one  must  humor 
him." 

Small  Man  knew  better.     He  knew  that  was  what  kept  her 


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338  OUT    WEST 

strong  and  beautiful,  so  that  she  could  lift  him  and  hold  him  and 
rest  him,  when  the  pain  was  worse  than  usual. 

There  was  sunshine  in  mother's  face,  there  was  blue  sky  in  her 
eyes;  and  her  voice — oh,  there  was  nothing  in  the  world  that 
Small  Man  knew,  that  could  be  compared  to  mother's  voice. 

All  this  he  had  been  thinking  while  mother  was  gone.  And 
now,  as  she  called  to  him  from  the  door-way,  "What  do  you  think 
I  found?"  he  turned  his  face  toward  her  with  his  bright,  brave 
smile. 

"What  is  it,  mother?    What  did  you  find?" 

"Such  an  odd  thing.  Small  Man  t  It  was  hanging  in  the  bar- 
berry bush.  Just  a  chance  that  I  saw  it ;  it  had  been  put  away  so 
cleverly.  If  I  had  not  been  looking  for  a  bird's  nest,  I  should 
never  have  noticed  it    Can  you  guess?" 

She  sat  down  on  the  edge  of  the  bed,  holding  up,  for  him  to 
see,  a  curious  rough  gray  object,  something  like  a  seed-pod,  and 
about  the  length  of  the  little  hand  that  lay,  wasted  and  weak,  on 
the  coverlet 

"Is  it  a  seed,  mother?    It  didn't  grow  on  the  barberry  bush!" 

Mother  laughed,  and  Small  Man  laughed,  too.  You  couldn't 
help  it  when  mother  did. 

"Yes,  and  no ;"  she  wore  her  mystery  look.  "I  wish  we  might 
have  seen  it  growing,  you  and  I,  Small  Man.  If  we  planted  it 
we  should  never  raise  a  barberry  bush.  But  it  is  a  little  like  a 
seed,  for  there  is  life  shut  up  in  it ;  yet  it  is  more  like  an  egg,  for 
something  alive  will  hatch  out  of  it.  It  will  rustle  if  you  shake 
it    Guess  again.  Small  Man." 

Small  Man  was  holding  it  in  his  hand  where  mother  had  laid  it 
He  was  almost  afraid  of  it;  or  he  would  have  been,  if  mother 
had  not  told  him  always  that  there  was  nothing  in  the  world 
that  a  Small  Man  should  be  afraid  of,  except  of  being  a  coward. 

"It  looks  a  little  scareful,  mother."  He  gave  it  a  gently  ex- 
perimental shake,  regarding  it  with  a  smile  that  was  at  once 
wise  and  whimsical.  He  had  strange  fancies,  this  Small  Man. 
For,  though  measured  in  the  usual  way  his  life  had  been  just 
eight  and  a  half  years  long,  and  of  course  he  could  remember 
only  part  way  back,  still  he  had  had  a  great  deal  of  time. 

"What  do  you  think,  mother?  I  know!  I  know  truly  what  it 
will  be !"  His  eyes  were  dreamily  mischievous.  They  were  not 
blue  sky,  like  mother's,  but  violet  dark. 

"I  know!"  His  voice  was  clear  and  stronger.  He  had  for- 
gotten that  it  was  such  a  weary  morning.    He  was  a  little  oracle. 

"It  will  be  a  dragon,  mother.  A  green  and  gold  dragon,  with 
a  scaly  tail,  and  fire  and  smoke  coming  out  of  his  mouth.  He 
will  roar.    He  will  roar  terribly !" 


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ANGELICA,  THE  DRAGON  339 

Small  Man  put  on  as  fierce  a  look  as  can  well  be  achieved  when 
one  has  to  overcome  the  feminizing  effect  of  a  pink  feather- 
stitched  nightgown,  a  little  transparent  face,  and  tangled  chest- 
nut curls  against  a  pillow. 

Mother  was  visibly  impressed.  "Truly,  will  it?  But  won't 
that  be  most  inconvenient — in  a  bedroom?  Whatever  shall  we 
do  with  him?  He  will  certainly  upset  the  medicine  stand  when 
he  gets  to  waving  his  tail  about,  and  if  he  breathes  flame  he  will 
bum  up  the  curtains." 

"Oh,  no,  mother  I"  Small  Man  laughed  to  reassure  her.  "It 
will  have  to  be  a  wee  dragon  to  be  folded  up  in  here." 

He  measured  with  his  fingers  to  show  her  the  proper  size  of 
infant  dragons.  "See?  He  must  be  quite  tiny.  And  we  will 
tame  him.  Don't  you  remember  the  good  dragon  who  wore  a 
fire-extinguisher  for  a  night-cap?" 

To  be  sure  mother  remembered ;  mothers  always  do.  She  felt 
quite  secure  now,  about  dragons.  She  rose  and  picked  up  the 
rough  gray  object  that  looked  something  like  a  seed-pod.  "Of 
course  we  can  tame  him,  and  if  he  forgets,  sometimes,  and  gets 
fiery,  just  while  he  is  little,  we  will  snuff  him  out  with  the 
snuffers.    Shall  I  put  it  up  here.  Small  Man?" 

She  set  it  on  end  in  an  empty  candle-stick  that  stood  on  the 
mantel  quite  close  to  Small  Man's  bed. 

"And  oh,  mother,  it  is  the  dragon  candle-stick  I  Isn't  that — " 
Small  Man's  vocabulary  was  inadequate. 

"Remarkably  appropriate,"  supplied  mother.  She  always 
talked  grown-up-talk  to  Small  Man.  You  see,  when  the  greater 
part  of  one's  experience  has  been  concerned  with  plaster-casts 
and  braces,  when  one  has  to  learn  to  endure  the  pain  just  as  long 
as  it  can  be  borne  before  one  asks  for  the  medicine  in  the  little 
bottle,  one  has  great  need  of  being  a  man ;  even  though  one's  life 
measures  only  eight  and  a  half  years  long. 

That  was  why,  to  mother,  he  was  always  Small  Man ;  that  is, 
almost  always.  He  had  one  other  name.  Sometimes  there  were 
nights  when  his  back  would  not  let  him  sleep;  when  he  would 
wake  long  after  every  one  else  was  quiet,  and  lie  thinking  and 
thinking.  At  those  times  the  little  red-shaded  night  lamp  seemed 
to  light  so  small  a  space,  and  the  shadowy  corners  held  such 
limitless  possibilities,  though  Small  Man  knew  that  he  was 
never  afraid.  But  by-and-by  the  night  would  get  bigger  and 
bigger,  while  he  would  get  smaller  and  smaller  and  go  sinking 
down  through  it,  until  he  could  not  bear  it  any  longer.  Then  he 
would  say,  softly,  "Mother!"  and  mother  would  be  awake  as 
quickly  as  though  she  had  not  been  asleep  at  all.  She  would 
slip  on  her  blue  kimona  and  lift  Small  Man  in  her  arms ;  the  cool, 


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340  our    WEST 

smooth  silk  felt  so  good  against  his  hot  cheek.  They  would  sit 
down  by  the  window  and  rock,  very  gently,  while  mother  held 
him  just  right.  Those  were  the  times  when  he  could  not  be  a 
Small  Man  any  longer,  but  was  just  a  little,  little  boy.  And 
mother  understood,  for  she  held  him  close  and  called  him, 
"Sweet!  Sweet!"  over  and  over. 

Somehow,  this  spring,  these  nights  came  oftener  than  ever 
before;  while  even  on  the  gentlest  days  to  be  carried  down 
stairs  and  into  the  garden  was  much  too  long  a  journey  for 
Small  Man.  From  his  bed  to  the  chair  by  the  window,  that  was 
his  daily  outing.  He  could  not  remember  ever  having  been  quite 
so  tired,  since  the  swing-board  struck  him  and  did  something  to 
his  back. 

So,  as  Small  Man  could  not  go  out-of-doors,  mother  brought 
out-of-doors  to  him.  Flowers  and  mosses  and  grass,  curious 
fungi,  or  sometimes  an  awkward,  scrambling  beetle  in  metallic 
armor ;  yet  never  anything  half  so  interesting  as  the  rough  gray 
object  that  remained  quite  inert  in  the  socket  of  the  dragon 
candle-stick.  Every  day  Small  Man  talked  about  it ;  each  morn- 
ing he  looked  at  it  to  see  if  by  any  chance  the  baby  dragon  might 
have  popped  out  his  head  in  the  night.  But  it  was  always  the 
same,  without  a  sig^  of  life. 

One  morning  Small  Man  slept  late,  after  a  particularly  dreary 
night,  when  he  was  sure  that  he  had  been  awake  for  years.  At 
last  his  eyes  unclosed,  drooped  shut,  then  opened  again,  and 
rested  half  consciously  upon  the  dragon  candle-stick.  A  stream 
of  yellow  sunshine  had  slipped  past  the  edge  of  the  drawn  win- 
dow blind  and  was  pouring  its  warm  brilliance  across  the  mantel. 
But  it  was  no  flicker  of  sunlight  that  made  Small  Man's  eyes 
widen  and  grow  dark  to  their  violet  deeps. 

On  the  tip  of  the  dull  gray  shell  that  still  rested  in  the  dragon 
candle-stock,  poised  and  wavered  a  marvelous  shape  of  life. 
Slowly,  with  the  rhythmic  grace  that  belongs  to  the  creatures  of 
air,  two  fawn-colored  wings  were  opening  and  closing — opening 
and  closing — half-drowsily  testing  their  fragile  power. 

Small  Man  held  up  a  warning  hand ;  he  had  heard  a  soft  foot- 
fall at  the  door:  "Hush — hush — look!"  he  breathed,  and  mother 
paused  at  the  side  of  the  bed ;  but  the  rapt  face  against  the  pillow 
was  where  her  eyes  rested,  and  her  smile  was  glad. 

"Let  me  take  it  down  so  that  you  can  see,"  she  said  at  last.  "It 
won't  be  afraid."  She  stepped  to  the  mantel  and  slipped  her 
finger,  mother's  firm,  slim  finger,  under  the  thread-like,  clinging 
feet. 

"Oh,  mother!"  Small  Man  raised  himself  on  his  elbow  and 
there  crept  into  his  face  the  first  tinge  of  pink  that  mother  had 


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ANGELICA,  THE  DRAGON  341 

seen  there  for  weeks.  This  was  such  a  wonderful  thing  that 
mother  was  holding  down  for  him  to  see!  Frail  wings  of  the 
tenderest  shadings  of  fawn,  veined  with  velvet  brown;  spots  of 
rose  and  touches  of  lilac;  while  from  the  tiny  head  sprung  two 
curling  plumes,  unbelievably  delicate. 

"Aren't  we  glad  it  wasn't  a  dragon  ?"  Small  Man  sighed  ecstat- 
ically, as  he  settled  back  on  his  pillows.  "I  think — I  think  I  shall 
call  it  Angelica,  like  the  little  girl  in  my  Mystery  Book.  She 
had  wings,  too,  but  nobody  else  could  see  them.  Isn't  it  a  good 
name,  mother?" 

The  responsibility  of  a  decision  was  spared  to  mother,  for  at 
that  moment  the  fawn-colored  wings  spread  and  Angelica  floated 
away,  straight  down  the  path  of  the  sunbeam  and  settled,  all 
tremulous,  in  the  brightest  spot  on  the  window  ledge. 

"Will  it  grow,  mother?  Will  its  wings  get  bigger?"  cried 
Small  Man. 

"No,  it  has  been  growing;  I  have  been  saving  the  story  to 
tell  you."    Mother  sat  down  on  the  edge  of  the  bed. 

"You  see,"  she  went  on,  "if  you  had  known  Angelica  a  few 
months  ago  you  would  never  have  thought  of  such  a  name.  An- 
gelica was  crawling  about  on  little  short  feet  with  no  sign  of 
wings  and  no  thought  of  flying.  A  very  contented  little  creat- 
ure it  was,  I  think,  and  always  busy  eating  crisp  green  leaves. 
Then  one  day  this  little  creeping  thing  began  to  get  very  tired, 
so  tired  and  sleepy  that  it  could  not  possibly  stay  awake,  and 
then  at  last  it  knew  a  thing  to  do.  It  spun  that  little  gray  house 
that  is  up  there  in  the  candle-stick ;  wove  it  all  around  itself  and 
sealed  it  until  it  was  quite  tight  and  dark,  and  then  it  went  to 
sleep. 

"It  didn't  want  the  sunshine;  it  didn't  know  it  was  going  to 
grow;  it  never  thought  of  wings.  But  all  the  while  the  wings 
were  growing,  because  it  was  meant  so  from  the  first.  And  when 
it  had  grown  enough  and  slept  enough,  it  was  all  over  being 
tired.  It  woke  up  and  wanted  the  light,  so  it  opened  the  door  of 
its  little  house  and  came  out  to  spread  its  wings.  Was  it  sur- 
prised, do  you  think,  when  it  found  it  could  fly  down  the  sun- 
beam?" 

Small  Man  did  not  say  anything,  but  the  pink  in  his  cheeks 
was  growing  almost  pinker  than  mother  liked  to  see  and  his  eyes 
more  deep  than  even  mother  could  fathom. 

She  rose  and  put  up  the  blinds,  letting  in  the  glow  of  the 
morning.  "How  hungry  you  must  be.  Small  Man!"  she  said. 
"Now  we  will  have  breakfast." 

Whether  Angelica  grew  hungry,  too,  or  whether  the  feel  of 
wings  filled  the  wee  creature  with  a  desire  for  wide  sweeps  of 


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342  OUT    WEST 

air;  however  that  may  be,  before  long  it  was  fluttering  up  and 
down  the  window,  beating  against  the  screen  in  a  palpitant  effort 
for  freedom. 

"Oh  I  oh !  it  will  hurt  itself !  It  will  hurt  itself  I  What  shall  we 
do?    Is  it  afraid  of  us?"    Small  Man  was  in  feverish  dismay. 

"No,  I  don't  think  it  is  afraid,"  said  mother.  "Wait  a  moment, 
perhaps  I  can  feed  it,"  and  Small  Man  waited  breathless  until 
mother  came  back  with  a  great  Japan  lily  that  filled  the  room 
with  its  heavy  sweetness.  The  curving  petals  were  splotched 
with  crimson  and  beaded  with  honey,  but  Angelica  would  have 
none  of  it.  Still  up  and  down  the  screen  beat  the  fluttering 
wings;  and  mother,  watching  the  flush  spread  and  deepen  in 
Small  Man's  cheeks,  said  at  last,  reluctantly : 

"I  am  afraid.  Small  Man,  we  must  let  it  go." 

"Oh,  mother,  I  can't!"  Small  Man  was  dangerously  near  to 
tears.  "I  want  it  for  mine.  I  want  it  to  live  with  me.  But  it 
mustn't  get  hurt.    Couldn't  we  wait  a  little  longer?" 

"Then  let  me  take  it  away  for  awhile,"  mother  compromised. 
"Perhaps  it  will  get  quiet  soon  and  then  you  can  have  it  again." 
She  shut  the  throbbing  thing  in  the  hollow  of  smooth  palms, 
Small  Man's  eyes  following  her  as  she  left  the  room. 

"You  won't  let  it  get  hurt,  mother?"  such  a  wistful  little  voice 
called  after  her. 

Of  course  mother  wouldn't  let  it  get  hurt.  Small  Man  was 
sure  of  that.  She  would  know  how  to  make  it  feel  better.  Mother 
always  made  him  feel  better.  He  wished  she  would  come  back 
before  long,  for  he  was  getting  tired  now.  It  was  dreadfully  ex- 
citing— having  such  wonderful  things  hatch  out  right  in  your 
room;  almost  more  exciting  than  a  dragon.  And  while  he  was 
thinking  about  it,  he  slipped  down  on  his  pillow  and  went  to 
sleep. 

Mother  found  him  so  when  she  came  into  the  room  again. 
Noiselessly  she  crossed  to  the  window  and  sat  down,  her  eyes  on 
Small  Man's  face.  The  flush  was  gone  from  his  cheeks;  even 
his  parted  lips,  through  which  the  breath  came  with  a  soft  flut- 
ter, were  only  faintly  pink.  Long  and  quietly  he  slept,  and  all 
the  while,  quite  motionless,  mother  watched  him. 

It  is  good  that  your  eyes  are  closed.  Small  Man ;  good  that  you 
cannot  see  the  haggard  lines,  the  blue  shadows,  that  are  coming 
out  in  that  watching  face.  But  you  will  never  see  them — those 
lines  and  shadows ;  for  at  the  first  quiver  of  your  eyelids,  by  the 
power  of  the  love  that  God  gives  mothers,  that  face  will  be  re- 
created— for  you. 

And  so  it  was  when  Small  Man  woke  at  last.  The  face  turned 
toward  him  was  strong  and  sweet  and  calm.    He  could  not  have 


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ANGELICA,  THE  DRAGON  343 

told  you  that  it  was  so ;  he  did  not  know  that  it  made  his  earth 
and  heaven ;  he  only  knew  that  it  was — mother.  The  whole  story 
was  in  the  happy,  drowsy  smile  with  which  he  law  and  looked  at 
her.  Then,  when  he  had  quite  got  hold  of  his  world  again  he 
said,  questioningly : 

"Angelica?" 

"Oh,  we  mustn't  have  Angelica  yet;  we  must  have  luncheon." 

"I'm  not  hungry,  mother." 

"Yes,  I  think  you  are.  Small  Man,  only  you  don't  know  it 
Perhaps  that  is  the  trouble  with  Angelica,  and  if  we  let  her  be 
all  alone  for  awhile  to  think  it  over,  she  may  find  it  out.  Mother 
is  very  hungry." 

Small  Man  made  no  further  objection,  but  when  the  tray  had 
been  taken  away  and,  wrapped  in  his  dressing  gown,  he  lay  *:; 
his  chair  by  the  window,  he  said,  confidently : 

"Now,  Angelica,  mother." 

So  the  wee  thing  came  in  on  mother's  finger.  The  fawn-colored 
wings  were  closed,  and  they  did  not  open  when  mother  coaxed 
the  thread-like  feet  to  leave  her  finger  for  the  window  ledge,  nor 
even  when  Small  Man  put  out  his  hand  and  touched  them.  They 
only  tipped  weakly  sidewise  and  Angelica  did  not  move. 

"It's  sick,  mother.    It  has  hurt  itself  and  it's  sick." 

"Perhaps  it  is  only  tired."    But  mother's  voice  was  doubting. 

"No,  no!  Open  the  screen.  I  don't  want  it  to  be  like  that. 
Perhaps  it  would  try  to  fly  a  little  if  it  knew  the  screen  was 
open." 

But  Angelica  did  not  know  the  screen  was  open,  until  a  puff 
of  breeze  nearly  whisked  her  off  the  window  ledge.  That  was 
the  call  of  the  out-of-doors,  and  Angelica  responded. 

Small  Man  had  a  glimpse  of  lilac  and  rose  as  the  gauzy  wings 
went  out  into  the  sunshine.  Up  and  up  they  went,  shifting  with 
the  breeze  but  always  rising,  above  the  maple,  on,  and  over  the 
pine  tree  out  of  sight. 

With  a  long  breath  of  happiness  Small  Man  looked  at  mother, 

"It  isn't  sick ;  it  isn't  sick  now.    I  am  glad  we  let  it  go,  mother." 

Then,  while  mother  went  for  her  walk.  Small  Man  lay  back  in 
his  chair  and  thought.  That  night  after  mother  was  asleep  and 
the  shadows  were  very  big  and  very  dark,  he  woke  and  went  on 
thinking.    At  last  he  said: 

"Mother!" 

"What  is  it.  Sweet?"  but  mother  did  not  wait  for  an  answer. 
She  gathered  him  up  in  a  soft  blanket  and  they  went  to  the  open 
window.  A  white  rim  of  a  moon  was  going  down  in  the  west  and 
the  sky  was  sown  thick  with  stars.  Small  Man  lay  so  still,  gazing 
out  into  the  night,  that  mother  thought  he  was  going  to  sleep, 
until  he  put  up  his  hand  and  touched  her  face. 

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344  OUT    WEST 

"I'm  not  afraid  now — mother." 

"Afraid?  Why,  Sweet!  Were  you  afraid?  Why  didn't  you 
tell  mother?" 

"I  couldn't,  because — it  was  being  a  coward,  you  know." 

Mother  waited,  not  saying  anything.  Long  ago  she  had  come 
to  recognize  the  inviolable  personality  of  this  Small  Man.  At 
last  the  little  voice  went  on : 

"I  was  afraid — because  I  couldn't  get  well.  I've  tried — ever 
so  hard — ^and  I  just  keep  getting  tireder." 

Small  Man  looked  up  into  the  brooding  face  above  him  and 
even  in  the  half-light  he  saw  there  something  that  was  new  to 
him. 

"Don't  cry,  mother!"  in  a  tone  of  startled  hush. 

"No,  Sweet,  no ;  mother  will  not  cry."  She  smiled  at  him  with 
shining  eyes^-eyes  that  were  liquid  radiant  with  the  unshed  tears 
of  all  the  weary  months  since  Small  Man  had  been  trying  with 
all  his  might  to  get  well.  But  the  tears  did  not  fall;  men  and 
mothers  do  not  cry.  Only  to  men  and  mothers  is  such  strength 
given.    Again  the  little  voice  went  on: 

"You  know  when  the  cage  fell  down  and  hurt  Cherry,  and  he 
couldn't  sing  any  more  nor  sit  on  his  perch,  you  said  he  went 
to  sleep.  You  made  him  a  little  bed  out  under  the  apple  tree,  but 
he  never  woke  up  that  I  knew  of.  I  didn't  think  he  liked  to  be 
out  there  all  the  time ;  it  was  dark  and  in  the  winter  it  was  cold. 
I  think — he  must  have  been — dreadfully  afraid." 

The  words  wavered  off  into  a  whisper  and  mother  waited  so 
long  that  at  last  she  said : 

"Tell  mother  about  it." 

"I  was  afraid,  too,  mother — dreadfully  afraid.  I  thought  if  I 
couldn't  get  well  pretty  soon — " 

But  mother  kissed  the  words  away  and  her  voice  throbbed  like 
a  lullaby  as  she  said: 

"Oh,  Sweet,  Sweet,  mother  should  have  told  you !" 

Small  Man  smiled ;  a  smile  of  assurance. 

"I'm  not  afraid  now,  mother.  Angelica  wasn't  afraid  of  the 
dark.  Angelica  kept  on  growing  and  came  out  all  strong  and 
well;  strong  enough  to  go  out  of  doors  and  wasn't  tired  at  all. 
Wouldn't  it  be  like  that,  mother?" 

"It  would  be— just  like  that." 

Closer  nestled  the  little  head  against  mother's  shoulder;  then, 
in  a  murmur  of  drowsy  content : 

"And  I  needn't  be  afraid  any  more,  not  ever  any  more,  need 
I,  mother?" 

In  the  voice  that  answered  him  was  a  note  of  victory. 

"No,  no,  we  won't  be  afraid — ever — ^any  more." 

Omaha,  Neb. 


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345 
some:  CALIFORNIA  POSSIBILITIES 

By  A.  /.   WELLS 

\  veracity  of  figures  may  be  questioned,  but 
iiey  are   sometimes   very  suggestive.     Some 
ages  of  statistics,   gathered   by  an   Eastern 
ngineer,  raise  a  question  perhaps  never  before 
ondered,  even  by  Californians.    This  is  the 
elation  of  climate  to  manufactures.    Mr.  Sam- 
el N.  Goldy  has  been  erecting  near  San  Jos6 
plant    for    manufacturing    machinery    and 
tools,  and,  apparently  as  a  preliminary  study, 
he  has  collated  and  arranged  from  the  Census  Report  various 
figures  of  very  practical  value.. 

The  gross  product  per  operative  in  manufacturing  establish- 
ments is  said  to  represent  value  as  follows :  In  the  United  States 
$1900.00;  in  France  $650.00;  in  England  $485.00;  in  Germany 
$450.00.  Among  the  States,  Connecticut  shows  a  value  per 
workman  of  $1997.00,  and  California  $3328.00.  The  average 
yearly  output  of  each  workman  in  California  is  thus  nearly  twice 
that  of  Connecticut,  one  and  three-fourths  that  of  the  United 
States,  and  nearly  seven  times  as  much  as  that  of  England.  Mr. 
Goldy  thinks  that  the  high  average  of  the  United  States  as  com- 
pared with  Europe  is  due  to  automatic  machinery,  ingenious 
appliances  and  improved  methods,  but  that  the  amazing  prepon- 
derance in  California  is  due  to  climate.  This  is  made  more 
striking  by  a  contrast  drawn  between  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  and 
Los  Angeles,  Cal.  The  former  is  quoted  as  having  1540  wage- 
earners  in  thirty-one  factories,  their  wages  being  $832,534.00  per 
year.  Los  Angeles  is  said  to  have  thirty-four  factories,  employ- 
ing 552  wage  workers,  with  yearly  wages  of  $359,920.00.  The 
average  investment  in  Bridgeport  is  $74,812.00;  in  Los  Angeles 
$30,080.00.  The  net  value  of  the  product  per  each  dollar  in- 
vested in  buildings  is  $4.20  in  the  Eastern  city,  against  $15.00 
in  the  Western.  Bridgeport  wage-workers  earned  net  $998.00 
each;  Los  Angeles  workers  $1404.00  each,  or  about  40  per  cent 
more.  Observe  that  this  is  the  net  product.  Before,  the  com- 
parison was  in  the  gross.  Note  also  that  this  seems  to  have  been 
a  comparison  between  selected  industries.  When  the  compari- 
son is  made  between  the  total  and  general  manufacturing  inter- 
ests, the  per  cent  in  Los  Angeles  is  slightly  reduced,  but  is  still 
amazing.  It  is  38  per  cent  greater  than  the  average  of  the 
Bridgeport  worker. 
Connecticut    as    a  whole    has   176,694  wage-earners    and    a 


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346  OUT    WEST 

manufacturing  product  of  $352,824,106.  California  has  91,047 
operatives  and  turns  out  a  product  valued  at  $302,874,761.  The 
cost  of  raw  material  in  the  Yankee  State  is  $185,641,219.  In  the 
Western  State  raw  material  costs  $188,125,602.  The  value  of 
the  output  per  operative  in  Connecticut  is  $940.00,  in  California 
$1260.00  or  32.9  per  cent  more.  This  in  the  face  of  the  fact 
that  estimates  were  based  on  coal  as  fuel,  in  both  cases,  while 
the  Californian  now  finds  oil  at  seventy  cents  a  barrel  cheaper 
than  bituminous  coal  at  Eastern  prices. 

Then,  too,  this  expert  thinks  California's  manufacturing  in- 
dustries far  behind  in  equipments,  and  that  "work  is  produced 
on  a  retail  basis ;"  yet  the  dry  figures  of  the  Census  show  that, 
compared  with  the  best  equipped  manufacturing  State  in  the 
East,  this  Western  giant,  toiling  in  the  sunshine,  and  not  yet 
"of  age,"  produces  nearly  one-third  more  per  unit  in  the  value 
of  the  output. 

We  are  a  little  given  to  bragging  about  California,  as  if  it  were 
a  matter  of  personal  merit  that  we  were  born  here,  or  a  mark  of 
special  wisdom  that  we  came  here  of  our  own  will.  It  is  prob- 
ably an  effect  of  climate,  but  the  most  enthusiastic  Native  Son 
probably  never  dreamed  that  climate  would  make  California 
great  in  manufactures.  Yet  this  is  the  conclusion  of  this  East- 
ern engineer,  an  expert  in  mechanics,  and  not  biased  by  long 
residence  in  this  Pacific  Coast  State.  Given,  he  says,  in  sub- 
stance, equipments  equal  to  New  England,  and  California  can 
manufacture  at  less  cost  than  New  England ;  can  prepay  freight 
and  ship  her  products  to  Eastern  markets  at  a  profit.  And  the 
explanation  he  finds  in — Climate!  Is  the  conclusion  wild?  It 
is  logical.  It  concerns  itself  with  such  practical  items  as  light 
and  ventilation,  heat  and  power.  These  must  be  paid  for.  Win- 
dows must  be  many  and  high.  Yet  the  maximum  use  of  glass  in 
a  cold  country  is  expensive.  The  factory  will  require  more  fuel, 
and  the  fixed  charges  for  operating  will  be  increased.  There 
should  be  opportunity  for  perfect  ventilation,  and  ample  space 
above  the  worker;  bad  air  impairs  vitality  and  reduces  the  out- 
put. But  high  ceilings  are  expensive,  and  increase  the  cost  of 
heating. 

But  these  items  do  not  explain  the  larger  output  of  the  worker 
in  California.  Heat  and  power  in  Connecticut  cost  but  13  per 
cent  more  than  in  this  State,  for  the  same  value  of  manufactured 
product,  while  38  per  cent  of  increase  in  the  Western  output 
is  to  be  accounted  for.  Evidently  climate  has  something  to  say 
about  the  worker.  It  has.  It  speaks  directly,  forcibly,  constant- 
ly. It  points  to  the  higher  value  of  his  work  and  says,  "This 
shows  physical  vigor,  increased  vitality,  better  health.    Your 


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SOME    CALIFORNIA    POSSIBILITIES  347 

'potential  energy'  is  high ;  it  has  not  been  lowered  by  months  of 
cold  and  storm,  by  bad  air  and  changing  temperature ;  you  have 
worked  in  Summer  with  more  comfort  and  with  less  fatigue; 
you  have  not  been  limp  with  humid  heat;  you  have  done  more 
work  and  better  work  all  the  year  because  of  better  air,  quieter 
nerves,  more  vigorous  digestion,  more  tranquil  sleep,  and  the 
greater,  better,  cheaper  production  of  your  skill  and  energy 
has  behind  it  one  constant  factor — one  sufficient  explanation — 
Climate." 

Why  not?  Is  the  answer  due  to  the  prepossessions  of  men  led 
captive  at  their  will  by  soft  airs  and  blue  skies  ?  Is  it  not  in  line 
with  all  that  we  know  of  that  elusive  thing  which  yet  explains 
the  perfect  fruit  and  vigor  of  the  plant  in  our  fields  and  orch- 
ards? Is  it  not  in  line  with  what  we  are  saying  today  through 
every  avenue  of  speech  and  language,  about  the  value  of  out- 
door life  in  its  relation  to  physical  vigor? 

A  year  or  two  ago  an  Eastern  magazine  published  a  double- 
page  illustration  of  beautiful  children,  and  the  list  of  winsome 
faces  embraced  seven  from  California.  As  the  subjects  were 
chosen  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  from  the  Gulf  to  the  Great 
Lakes,  and  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  the  number  of  young 
Californians  was  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  population.  And 
six  of  the  seven  were  so  exceptionally  favored  that  not  three  of 
the  others  could  bear  comparison,  while  the  seventh  was  so 
rarely  beautiful  as  to  be  regarded  as  the  one  ideal  type  pre- 
sented, and  so  was  selected  for  special  comment  by  the  editor 
of  the  magazine. 

This  appreciation  of  outsiders  is  not  new.  Who  does  not 
recall  Bayard  Taylor's  "dream  of  a  more  beautiful  race  in  pos- 
session of  this  paradise — a  race  in  which  the  lost  symmetry  and 
grace  of  the  Greek  was  partially  restored"  ?  For  this  wide-eyed 
traveller,  revisiting  California  in  1859,  had  noted  that  "the  chil- 
dren are  certainly  a  great  improvement  upon  those  born  among 
us,"  and  he  describes  them  as  "strong  limbed,  red-blooded,  grace- 
ful." Of  his  own  experience  he  says:  "If  I  live  to  be  old  and 
feel  my  faculties  failing,  I  shall  go  back  to  restore  the  sensations 
of  youth  in  that  wonderful  air."  And  because  he  saw  that  the 
climate  had  deeper  relations  than  the  physical,  this  poet-traveler 
said,  "The  home  of  Literature  and  Art  will  be  in  the  valleys  near 
the  Coast;"  for  he  "could  not  feel  that  Nature  must  be  false  to 
her  promise,  or  man  is  not  the  splendid  creature  he  once  was, 
if  the  Art,  and  Literature,  and  Philosophy  of  Ancient  Greece  are 
not  one  day  rivalled  on  this  last  of  inhabited  shores." 

Was  it  all  a  dream  of  the  poet's  brain,  incited  by  the  charm 
of  a  new  country — the  effect  of  Lotus  eating  in  a  land  more  be- 


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348  our    WEST 

witching  than  the  sailors  of  Ulysses  ever  found?  Well,  two  or 
three  things  are  significant.  One  is  that  almost  within  a  genera- 
tion the  grace  and  loveliness  of  California  children  should  arrest 
attention  in  the  East,  another  is  that  the  vigor  of  California 
workmen  should  challenge  the  scrutiny  of  a  hard-headed  me- 
chanical engineer,  who  believes  in  his  own  conclusions,  and  is 
actually  putting  the  climate  to  a  test  by  establishing  here  a 
manufacturing  plant. 

Another  thing  is  suggestive.  The  earliest  homes  of  litera- 
ture and  art  were  in  lands  of  the  Sun,  and  the  country  most 
famous  for  the  physical  vigor  and  grace  of  its  inhabitant^ 
strikingly  resembles  California  in  its  scenery  and  the  seductive- 
ness of  its  climate.  Bayard  Taylor  said  that  "the  original  type 
of  the  landscape  of  California  was  Greece,"  and  Pericles  long  ago 
connected  "the  most  pellucid  air"  of  Attica  with  the  intellectual 
quality  of  Grecians ;  while  it  is  certain  enough  to  build  upon  that 
the  Greeks  would  never  have  developed  either  their  physical 
traits,  their  art  or  their  philosophy,  in  the  climate  of  Russia. 
"This  world  and  eternal  youth,"  the  Greek  said,  and  that  frank 
devotion  to  the  Visible  was  the  expression  of  his  enjoyment  of 
his  native  land. 

Hamlet  asked,  a  little  petulantly,  whether  he  was  "a  pipe  to 
be  played  on" — ^but  he  was.  We  all  are.  The  weather  and  the 
landscape  are  but  two  of  the  subtle  and  mysterious  forces  which 
play  upon  us  and  mold  our  frame,  and  shape  our  character.  Life 
is  essentially  alike  at  the  root,  but  it  is  shaded,  colored,  tempered 
by  both  inward  and  outward  conditions.  "Blood  tells,"  but  so 
does  climate  Marryat's  quarter-master  came  back  from  the 
West  Indies  into  the  fogs  of  the  English  Channel  with  a  sigh 
of  satisfaction.  "This  is  what  I  calls  something  like.  None  of 
your  —  blue  skies  here."  There  spoke  the  Anglo-Saxon,  born 
with  winter  in  his  blood.  So  the  melancholy  of  the  Slavs  may 
be  traced  to  the  gloom  of  his  forests,  his  boundless  steppes,  and 
grim  climate,  while  the  Southern  races  of  Europe  are  cheerful 
and  light-hearted,  as  a  result  of  the  physical  and  climatic  char- 
acter of  the  country. 

No  doubt  climate  is  a  powerful  factor  in  the  constitution  and 
destiny  of  races,  and  on  this  coast  may  ultimately  modify  our 
civilization.  It  may  be  too  friendly  to  challenge  our  courage 
and  resistance.  There  is  something  responsive  to  human  expe- 
rience in  Tennyson's  lines, 

"Block  my  path  with  toil  and  danger, 
I  will  find  or  force  a  way," 
but  if  the  way  is  made  smooth  for  my  treading,  I  know  not  why, 
like  the  Eucalyptus  in  Australia,  or  the  Sequoias  on  our  Sierra 


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HOPE  349 

slopes,  I  should  not  find  vigor  and  develop  greatness  in  a  kindly 
air,  responding  as  the  tree  does,  to  soft  sunshine.  Do  raw  cli- 
matic conditions  develop  better  men?  We  want  no  theory  of  a 
Demiurge,  and  are  glad  to  be  where  the  weather  extorts  no  cry 
as  of  the  King  in  the  "Passing  of  Arthur": 

"O !  me,  for  why  is  all  around  us  here. 
As  if  some  lesser  God  had  made  the  world. 
But  had  not  force  to  shape  it  as  he  would. 
Till  the  High  Grod  behold  it  from  beyond. 
And  enter  it  and  make  it  beautiful." 
Nor  do  I  believe,  because  the  art-loving  and  athletic  Greeks 
have  deteriorated,  that  the  race  culminated  in  that  fair  land  2000 
years  ago ;  nor  with  John  Burroughts,  that  "the  earth  has  reached 
the  maturity  of  her  powers,"  and  that  "the  game  of  life  has  been 
played."    I  prefer  to  say  with  "rare  Ben  Jonson":     "I  cannot 
think  Nature  is  so  spent  and  decayed  that  she  can  bring  forth 
nothing  worth  her  former  years."    She  can.    She  will  surpass 
them.    And  if  there  is  virtue  in  sunshine  for  man  as  well  as  for 
the  plant;  if  the  energy  of  physical  health  means  better  work 
by  the  artisan  and  steadier  of  nerves  mean  truer  messages  for  the 
brain  that  thinks;  if  sanity  and  breadth  of  vision  and  healthful 
impulse  are  nourished  by  outdoor  life,  then  some  future  poet- 
traveler  will  find  in  California  better  men  and  a  nobler  civili- 
zation. 

San  Francisco 


f? 


HOPE 

By  S.  RA  YMOND  JOCEL  YN 

LL  seasons  tell  of  hope  throughout  the  year — 
The  airy,  love-begetting  spring,  that  fills 
The  earth  with  laughter  of  her  early  rills ; 
The  radiant  summer,  heaped  with  golden  cheer, 
And  voiced  with  woodland  echoes,  crystal  clear; 
And  autumn,  massing  splendor  on  the  hills ; 
And  gay,  white  winter,  with  his  song  that  thrills 
With  hearty  life,  e'en  while  the  woods  are  drear. 

Come,  let  us  imitate  the  year,  and  sing! 

Away  with  care !    Eyes  were  not  made  to  weep. 

Our  hearts  should  beat  with  nature's,  and  should  keep 

Hope  warm  in  wintertide  as  well  as  spring. 

So  let  us  make  all  times,  all  seasons  ring 

With  harmonies  of  hope,  soul-stirred  and  deep. 

Wichita,  Kan. 


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350  OUT    WEST 

FOLEY'S   WARDS 

By  P.  S.  LELAND 

"What  have  you  for  dinner  today?"  asked  the  guest 
"Salt  pork,"  replied  the  waiter. 
"Don't  like  salt  pork ;  anything  else  ?" 
"Got  some  curlew." 
"What's  curlew?" 

"It's  a  bird  we  have  around  here." 
"Um— can  it  fly?" 
"You  bet  it  can  fly." 

"Well,  bring  me  the  pork,  then — I  don't  want  anything  to  do  with 
a  bird  that  will  stay  around  here  when  it's  able  to  fly." 

— Arizona  Kicker. 

R.  troop  was  doing  its  turn  at  Carlos.  Carlos 
is  the  agency  for  the  San  Carlos  Apaches,  and 
Government  until  recently  kept  a  small  de- 
tachment of  troops  there,  to  deter  these  esti- 
mable people  from  murdering  the  agent,  and 

using  his  suplies  as  a  basis  for  another  little 

hair-lifting  expedition  over  the  border.  The 
main  body  of  the  regiment  remained  at  Ft.  Grant,  some  sixty 
miles  to  the  southward,  where  the  water  was  drinkable,  and 
supplies  could  be  obtained. 

It  was  late  in  the  Arizona  summer,  and  I  sat  in  the  doorway  of 
the  adobe  barracks  looking  out  over  the  flat  toward  the  agency 
buildings.  The  brown  line  of  the  Gila  river,  running  across  the 
foot  of  the  slope,  danced  and  flickered  in  the  heat-waves  that 
rose  out  of  the  bare  earth.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  the 
round-topped,  bark-covered  wickiups,  or  duggans,  of  the  Indians, 
extended  in  a  long  ragged  line;  while  farther  back  on  the  mesa 
Indian  boys  could  be  seen  herding  half-starved  ponies  on  the 
scant  pasture.  The  grey  wall  of  the  San  Carlos  mountains  rose 
in  the  distance  like  a  huge  rampart. 

Presently  an  old  "non-com"  came  out  of  barracks  and  sat  down 
beside  me — on  his  heels,  cow-puncher  fashion,  with  his  back 
against  the  adobe  wall — ^and  cast  his  half-closed  eyes  out  over 
the  ash-colored  landscape  with  an  air  of  dreamy  retrospect.  Sev- 
eral troopers  gathered  about,  attracted  by  the  scent  of  "soldier 
talk." 

The  old  yellow-leg  seemed  in  a  communicative  mood,  so  I  de- 
cided to  brace  him  for  a  yarn.  "Sergeant  Foley,"  said  I,  "tell  us 
about  that  fancy  sabre  you  have."  (This  was  Foley's  pride ;  the 
gift  of  admiring  friends.) 

"Twas  the  non-coms  of  the  Foorth  w'at  gev  me  that — fer 
takin'  a  trumpeter  b*y  aff  the  firin'  line,  wan  time  whin  we  had 


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FOLEY'S   WARDS  351 

Geronimo  corralled  down  below  Huachuca.  I  wuz  a  corp'ril  in 
B  troop  thin — B  troop  av  th'  Foorth." 

Then  of  course  we  all  insisted  that  Foley  should  give  us  an 
account  of  how  Geronimo  was  corralled. 

"It's  not  me  custim  to  brag  av  the  small  part  I  have  tuck  in 
the  work  av  the  arrmy  an  the  frontier,"  he  continued  with  dig- 
nity. "But  since  manny  av  ye  are  young  min  raally  desiris  av 
larnin'  the  trade  av  a  soldier,  'tis  well  that  ye  shud  know  what's 
bin  done  be  thim  whose  places  ye're  takin'.  Til  begin  at  the  be- 
ginnin*. 

"YeVe  all  heard  av  Geronimo;  him  bein'  the  namesake  av 
all  the  kickin'  mules  and  bitin'  dogs  in  Arizona.  Well,  thim 
days  Geronimo  wuz  livin'  at  Carlos.  And  he  spint  his  day- 
times circulatin'  around  among  the  soldiers,  and  studyin'  their 
ways,  and  how  'e  cud  circumvint  them.  And  in  the  avenin's  he 
occipied  himsilf  wid  preachih'  sedishin  to  the  young  bucks  av  the 
camp  yonder.  They  were  sore,  ye  mind,  because  they'd  bin 
moved  away  from  the  upper  agincy,  where  the  water  was  swate, 
and  there  wuz  game  in  the  hills. 

"So  wan  time,  in  the  Spring  av  '85,  I  think  it  was — I  was  at 
hidquarters  thin,  workin'  fer  the  quartermaster — owld  Geronimo 
med  up  his  mind  to  desert.  And  whin  night  comes,  an'  the  day 
agreed,  he  calls  out  his  owld  g^arrd — ^the  Warm  Spring  band  av 
Chiricahuas;  and  he  rounds  up  'is  wives  and  'is  ponies — and 
some  what  wasn't  his — and  they  all  lights  out  fer  Mexico. 

"About  midnight  the  sintry  an  g^ard  at  the  agincy  noticed  the 
ponies  had  dissapeared  aff  the  mesa  acrost  the  river,  and  he  sus- 
picioned  there  wuz  somethin'  doin'.  So  he  calls  the  corp'ril  av 
the  gfuard,  and  the  two  goes  over  and  diskivers  that  the  Warm 
Spring  band  hez  pulled  out,  and  the  camp  wuz  all  tore  up.  Thin 
the  af'cer  in  charrge  av  the  garrison  calls  out  his  troop  to  guard 
the  agincy.  But  he  didn't  dare  to  foller  the  renegades,  fur  fear 
the  whole  camp  would  break  away.  So  he  sinds  a  trumpeter  out 
under  flyin'  arders  to  notify  headquarters. 

"I  mind  'twas  about  noon  the  next  day  the  wind-jammer  kem 
rowlin'  into  Grant  in  a  cloud  av  dust,  and  wint  down  the  row 
an  the  run ;  niver  stoppin'  to  s'lute  the  flag  or  nothin'.  And  whin 
he  jarked  up  in  front  av  rigimintal  hidquarters  his  spurs  wuz 
covered  wid  blood,  and  his  haarse  wuz  glistenin'  wid  sweat,  fer 
he'd  made  sixty  miles  that  marnin' — and  ye  all  know  the  road  to 
Carlos. 

"Then  pretty  soon  ye  could  see  the  arderlies  goin'  through 
af'cer's  quarters,  callin'  thim  up  fer  a  conf'rince;  and  the  min 
began  to  prick  up  their  ears,  fer  they  knowed  there  wuz  some- 
thin'  in  the  wind.    And  prisintly  the  trumpeter  comes  trottin' 


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352  OUT    WEST 

down  the  line  wid  a  fist  full  av  papers,  dodgin'  in  and  out  av 
the  arderly  rooms.  And  the  top  serjints  begins  fussin'  round 
like  a  mother  hin  in  the  face  of  a  thunder  storm,  chasin'  up  stray 
troopers,  w'ile  the  rooks  wuz  standin'  in  the  dureways  askin' 
aich  other  what  wuz  the  row.  And  'don't  be  standin*  around  ask- 
in'  fool  questyins,'  the  serjints  wud  be  say  in',  'Git  yer  stuff  to- 
gether and  git  ready  to  turn  out;  boots  and  saddles'U  be  goin' 
first  thing  ye  know,  and  the  half  av  ye'll  be  wantin'  somebody  to 
find  yer  'quipments.' 

"W'ile  these  prepirations  wuz  goin'  an,  the  cooks  wuz  rustlin' 
a  bit  av  chuck.  And  we  ate  it  wid  our  harness  on,  standin'  up, 
and  shovelin'  in  the  banes  hot  afF  the  fire ;  fer  we  knowed  'twould 
be  the  last  dacent  male  we'd  git  fer  one  while,  and  so  it  was — 
fer  six  bloody  wakes.  Thin  the  trumpeter  rides  out  an  the  p'rade 
ground  and  blows  the  Assembly — ^the  notes  wuz  bad  mangled, 
but  iverybody  understood  the  call — and  the  whole  garrison  gits 
out  and  falls  in. 

"The  scouts  had  an  idee  that  Geronimo  would  strike  out  South 
through  the  Arivaypa  canyin,  so  they  led  out  through  the  chap- 
arral fer  that  break  in  the  hills.  The  sun  was  about  an  hour  high 
yit  whin  we  started,  and  we  rached  the  Arivaypa  about  tin  in  the 
night.  Thin  ut  was  some  time  after  that  befoor  the  scouts  found 
a  p*int,  and  we  cut  the  trail  av  the  renegades  comin'  out  av  the 
canyin. 

"The  trail  led  up  along  the  slopes  av  the  Caliuros,  where  there 
wuz  plinty  av  rough  goin',  and  iverybody  got  more  or  less 
skinned  up,  rowlin'  down  the  sides  av  the  canyins,  and  workin* 
up  slides.  But  we  kept  goin'  till  mornin',  fer  the  renegades  had 
bin  knockin'  in  fer  all  they  wuz  worth.  The  rocks  wuz  spattered 
wid  blood  and  haarse's  hair,  wherever  there  wuz  a  bit  av  drift 
acrost  the  trail;  and  we  come  acrost  two  ar  three  dead  ponies, 
all  slashed  up  wid  the  knife  where  the  Injins  had  bin  prickin' 
thim  along  befoor  they  give  out. 

"There  wuz  no  water  in  the  Caliuros,  so  we  struck  out  fer  the 
Hager  ranch  next  day,  after  a  two  hours'  rest ;  bein'  satisfied  that 
the  game  wuz  headin'  fer  Dos  Cabezas  annyhow.  And  whin  we 
pulled  in  at  Hager's  we  found  that  the  Apaches  had  bin  there 
ahead  av  us,  and  the  owld  man  wuz  all  scared  up.  They'd  come 
down  on  'im  like  a  whirlwind,  and  two  ar  three  punchers  that 
wuz  out  an  the  range  had  a  run  fer  their  lives.  The  renegades 
burned  an  outlyin'  camp — disembowelin'  a  Mexican  family  w'at 
wuz  livin'  there — and  wint  whirling  on  down  the  valley.  But 
the  punchers  barricaded  the  corral  wid  waggins,  and  whin  they 
seen  our  dust  they  wuz  sittin'  an  the  roof  wid  their  Winchesters, 
thinkin'  it  might  be  another  party  av  the  same  welcome  guests. 


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FOLBrS   WARDS  353 

"The  outfit  only  stopped  at  Hager's  long  enough  to  water  the 
stock  and  rustle  a  bit  av  grub,  and  thin  we  got  up  and  took  the 
trot  agin,  only  pulUn'  up  wanst  or  twice  durin'  the  afternoon,  to 
aise  the  haarse's  backs,  which  wuz  beginnin'  to  gall  under  the 
heat  and  the  killin'  pace. 

"Towards  evenin'  we  kem  acrost  the  spot  where  Geronimo  hed 
camped  the  night  befoor.  Twas  an  the  North  slope  av  the  Ca- 
bezas.  Ye  could  overlook  the  country  fer  fifty  mile  around,  and 
the  ground  wuz  covered  wid  loose  stones  rolled  down  afF  the 
peak,  so  that  anny  number  av  min  approachin'  an  the  quiet  wud 
make  noise  enough  to  wake  the  did.  The  scouts  sid  this  wuz  a 
regular  stoppin'  place  av  the  raiders.  And  Geronimo  hed  made 
the  whole  distance — ^wan  hundred  and  twinty-odd  mile — in  twin- 
ty-foor  hours,  widdout  stoppin',  and  takin'  about  a  hundred  wim- 
men  and  kids  along  wid  'im.  That  comes  av  breedin'  fer  speed, 
ye  mind. 

"The  outfit  camped  that  night  an  Dos  Cabezas.  And  an  ar- 
derly  kem  in  at  daylight  next  maarnin'  wid  sealed  arders  from 
Gineral  Miles.  Thin  'twas  a  three  days'  straightaway  fer  the 
Mexican  line. 

"Ye  cud  see  all  the  time  be  the  freshenin'  sign  that  we  wuz 
gainin'  an  the  renegades.  But  the  pace  wuz  turrible.  The  troop 
haarses  wuz  all  dead  tired,  and  the  min  wuz  beginnin'  to  straggle. 
And  there,  me  lads,  is  where  the  trooper  w'at  slops  round  in  'is 
saddle  an  the  march,  and  takes  aff  his  blanket  in  the  noonday 
heat,  and  lades  out  to  wather  after  a  laang  drill  widout  waitin' 
fer  the  sweat  to  cool,  and  fills  his  canteen  wid  booze  instid  av 
what  ut  wuz  med  fer,  and  comes  away  widout  tibaccy  depindin' 
an  his  frinds — there's  where  he  gits  to  be  a  burden  an  the  outfit, 
and  a  thorn  in  the  side  av  the  c'mandin'  af 'cer ;  an'  don't  you  fer- 
gitit! 

"Well,  the  third  evenin'  we  bumped  into  thim,  in  the  brakes 
av  the  hills,  just  this  side  the  border;  and  there  wuz  the  rale 
fight  av  the  campaign.  Iverybody  happened  to  be  pretty  well 
up,  and  tfie  renegades  had  to  make  a  stand  fer  to  let  their  wim- 
men  and  kids  git  away.  They  tuck  up  a  strong  position  in  the 
malapie,  and  laid  low  until  the  head  av  the  column  wuz  close  in 
betune  thim ;  thin  they  poured  it  into  us,  and  the  ladin'  sets  av 
foors  wint  down  like  cut  grass.  The  byes  were  not  long  dis- 
mountin',  ye'd  better  belave.  And  we  had  to  drop  back  to  cover, 
owin'  to  the  Apaches  bein'  posted  behint  a  hog-back.  Thin  there 
wuz  some  lively  sharpshootin'  at  long  range  fer  a  while,  and  if 
annybody  showed  himsilf  fer  a  minute  he  drawed  fire. 

"There  wuz  a  wind-jammer  kid  got  knocked  aff  his  haarse  airly 
in  the  fight,  and  whin  the  troop  wint  back  to  cover  he  wuz  left  in 


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354  OUT    WEST 

the  open;  and  the  Injins  wuz  pottin'  at  him  from  the  top  of  the 
ridge,  w'ile  the  kid  wuz  tryin'  to  crawl  to  shelter  wid  his  leg 
smashed  above  the  knee. 

"  'Twas  plain  the  b'y  would  git  kilt  widout  he  wuz  tuck  away, 
so  me  and  the  head  packer  laid  out  to  give  him  a  lift.  We 
started  out  bold  enough,  all  right;  but  before  we  got  back  we 
wuz  huggin'  the  ground  like  a  couple  av  bloomin'  badgers.  Did 
anny  av  yez  iver  have  yer  hair  parted  be  a  forty-four  an  the 
ricochet?  'Tis  the  most  exhileratin'  sinsashin  ye'll  iver  expay- 
rience,  if  ye  did.  And  we  enj'yed  ut  siveral  times  durin'  thim 
forty  seconds.  But  we  dragged  the  kid  aff  between  us,  and  wid- 
out atin'  anny  lead — barrin'  a  bit  av  a  crease  in  the  sate  av  Bow- 
man's trousers'  w'ich  they  wuz  too  full  annyways.  And  that  wuz 
whin  I  got  me  credit  wid  the  Foorth.  They  gev  me  the  sabre 
next  pay.  But  the  kid  died  in  harspital  after — owin'  to  the  saw- 
bones not  bein'  handy  wid  their  tools,  they  sid.  And  Geronimo 
got  away  in  the  night." 

"But  they  finally  got  him,  didn't  they?"  eagerly  questioned 
the  recruit. 

"I  sid  Gineral  Miles  wuz  in  command,  didn't  I?"  scornfully 
retorted  the  non-com.  "Did  ye  iver  hear  av  him  droppin'  a  trail 
wanst  the  game  wuz  started  " 

"It  must  have  been  the  dough-boys ;  it  was  them  that  followed 
him  over  the  line,  I  remember,"  put  in  another,  more  astutely. 

"Divil  a  bit  was  it  the  dough-byes,"  Foley  responded.  "The 
dough-byes  wuz  only  wurrkin'  down  in  Mexico  fer  a  bit  w'ile  we 
wint  back  to  Grant  fer  supplies.  Though  fer  fair  they  med  a  good 
showin';  not  havin'  to  lose  time  huntin'  fer  passable  crossin's 
whin  the  trail  jumped  over  the  range.  But  they  suffered  turrible 
from  the  heat  and  the  drought,  down  an  the  flats.  Sure  the 
weather  alone  wuz  enough  to  frizzle  up  annything  but  a  San 
Carlos  salymander,  to  say  nothin'  av  the  fightin'. 

"Well,  whin  word  came  back  to  the  post  that  Geronimo  wuz 
headin'  fer  the  Madres,  Lawton's  column  hit  the  road  agin — 
that  bein'  the  outfit  I  wuz  listed  wid.  And  we  tuck  along  a 
bunch  of  extra  lead  haarses  this  trip;  and  a  squad  av  Navajo 
scouts  from  up  an  the  San  Juan,  fer  to  run  the  trail ;  them  bein' 
familiar  wid  the  Madre  mountains. 

"The  Navajos  pretty  soon  had  Geronimo  located  agin,  down 
an  the  line  betune  Sonora  and  Chihuahua  somewheres ;  and  Law- 
ton  tuck  up  the  trail  wid  the  intinshin  av  stayin'.  The  Navajos 
wint  after  the  owld  lobo  like  blood-hounds  chasin'  a  nigger,  and 
the  rest  av  the  outfit  strung  along  annyway  fer  to  kape  in  sight 
av  the  guidon.  And  we  niver  gave  him  no  chanst  to  take  an 
travel  rashins,  ar  to  ketch  his  second  wind.     But  'twas  a  long 


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FOLEY'S   WARDS  355 

chase.  The  owld  cock  was  an  his  own  dung-hill,  and  he  knowed 
all  the  passes ;  w'ile  the  troops  cud  only  foUer  w'ere  the  trail  led, 
trustin'  to  the  instinct  av  the  trailers.  We  niver  knowed  when 
we'd  git  water,  ar  food,  ar  slape,  and  were  ginerally  dissap'inted 
if  we  med  a  guess. 

"That  wuz  the  lead  fer  a  matter  av  three  hunder  mile  down 
beyand  Oposura;  and  the  trail  all  the  w'ile  windin'  in  and  out 
along  the  main  range  av  the  Madres,  first  an  one  side,  thin  on 
the  other.  The  Apaches  wuz  makin'  the  race  av  their  lives,  and 
they  doubled  back  and  crossed  their  track  agin  and  agin.  And 
sometimes  the  pack  wud  be  wurrkin'  back  an  one  side  av  a  gut, 
w'ile  we  wuz  goin'  down  the  other  side,  and  feelin'  fer  a  place  to 
git  acrost. 

"Wanst  we  met  thim  faice  to  faice,  an  the  big  canyin  av  the 
Yaqui — them  bein'  an  the  opposite  side.  The  canyin  wuz  a  mat- 
ther  av  a  mile  acrost,  about  a  quarter  dape,  and  two  days'  march 
around  the  ind.  And  the  Apaches  wuz  lined  up  along  the  idge 
av  ut,  knowin'  we  cud  do  thim  no  harm.  'Twas  a  quare  sight: 
thim  buck  Injins  and  buck  soldiers  scowlin'  at  aich  other  acrost 
the  big  ditch,  and  the  river  rowlin'  betune  thim,  thousands  av 
fate  below.  And  ye  cud  see  the  squaws  and  kids  wuz  carryin' 
the  camp-kit  an  their  backs  now,  most  av  the  ponies  havin'  bin 
killed  and  ate. 

"The  c'mandin'  afcer  tried  to  wurrk  a  stratejim  an  thim,  be 
sindin*  a  detachmint  around  behint  the  mountain  to  make  a  night 
reach  fer  the  crossin',  w'ile  the  rist  av  us  med  a  big  show  av 
goin'  into  camp — settin'  up  tints,  and  turrnin'  out  the  haarses  to 
graze.  But  the  owld  lobo  wuz  not  to  be  ketched  in  anny  sich 
coyote  trap  as  that;  and  the  pack  soon  disappeared  beyand  the 
canyin. 

"  'Twas  a  lung-splittin',  shin-scrapin'  job,  from  first  to  last ; 
and  the  divil  himsilf  wud  have  trouble  to  pursuade  anny  man 
w'at  med  the  trip  to  try  ut  agin.  Wanst  ye've  bin  through  the 
Madres,  all  other  mountains  looks  small  and  scrubby.  There  'tis 
mountain  after  mountain,  rainge  after  rainge ;  and  all  straight  up 
and  down.  And  ye'll  find  nayther  plateaus  an  top,  nor  valleys 
betune.  'Tis  a  land  av  dissap'intments,  and  no  person  but  a 
bloomin'  burrd  has  anny  business  goin'  theyre — and  he  wouddn't 
be  comftable,  widdout  he  'ad  strong  lungs  and  a  forbearin' 
stummick. 

"It's  niver  aven  a  sure  thing  ye'll  find  water  whin  ye  git  to  the 
well,  in  that  country.  The  half  av  thim  are  as  dry  as  a  cavalry 
post  three  wakes  after  pay.  And  wanst  ye've  thrashed  around 
in  the  greasewood  under  a  red  hot  sun  fer  forty-eight  hours,  wid 
yer  tongue  chokin'  yer  mout',  and  the  thirst  divils  dancin'  in  yer 


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356  OUT    WEST 

eyes,  and  widout  aven  a  cactus  pear  to  relave  the  strain,  'twill 
make  an  endurin'  impreshin  an  yer  mind. 

"We  had  a  packer  be  the  name  av  Edwards,  wid  a  buckskin 
bronk  w'at  cud  ate  mezquit  leaves;  and  he  undertook  to  circle 
the  hid  av  the  range,  to  make  sure  none  av  the  rinegades  hed 
broke  back.  And  divil  a  bit  av  water  did  that  man  see  from  start 
to  finish — ^barrin'  the  canteen.  The  buckskin  croaked  about 
twinty  mile  shaart  av  the  last  day's  ride,  and  Edwards  kem  in 
a-foot.  The  column  wuz  crossin'  an  alkali  flat  at  the  time,  and 
s'help  me  God  the  man  wuz  swimmin'.  He  thought  he'd  rached 
the  gulf  av  Californy,  and  he  wuz  strikin'  out  fer  the  escort  wag- 
gin',  thinkin'  it  wuz  a  Dago  fishin'  schooner.  They  sint  him  to 
the  'sylum  at  Paso,  after,  and  I  reckon  he's  swimmin'  )rit;  he 
niver  kem  back  to  Grant. 

"But  good  luck  and  bad  luck  we  kem  up  wid  the  game  at  last, 
and  ye  cud  see  the  beggars  were  about  played  out.  Their  ponies 
were  all  taken  ar  killed,  and  the  kids  were  fair  starvin'.  But  the 
young  bucks  still  showed  fight.  And  whin  we  got  thim  sur- 
rounded an  a  bit  av  a  mesa,  they'd  laid  up  a  barracade  av  bowl- 
ders and  greasewood,  and  the  whole  pack  wuz  preparin'  to  cash 
in  as  dear  as  they  knowed  how'  niver  expectin'  to  git  oflf  wid 
less  than  hangin'. 

"And  whin  we  closed  in  an  thim  ye  cud  hear  the  wimmin 
dronin'  out  the  turrible  howl  av  the  Apache  death  song,  meanin' 
that  they  wuz  nervin'  thimselves  to  die  be  their  own  hands.  But 
our  arders  didn't  contimplate  kilHn'  the  whole  band,  providin' 
they  cud  be  tuck  anny  other  way.  So  the  af'cers  hild  a  council 
av  war,  fer  to  decide  how  we  cud  git  the  ropes  over  the  varmints 
widout  spoilin'  the  hides. 

"Seein'  how  things  stood  'twould  have  bin  impossible  to  re- 
strain the  min;  them  bein'  exasperated  wid  the  killin'  heat,  and 
hunger  and  thirst.  They  would  niver  have  stopped  till  the  last 
dirty  whelp  av  the  owld  lobo's  litter  quit  kickin'. 

"So  at  the  ind  av  the  conf  rince,  wan  av  the  afcers — a  cavalry 
liftinant  'twas — ^wint  inside  av  the  inimy's  lines  alone,  takin' 
along  a  Navajo  trailer  to  do  the  translatin'.  And  the  shave-tail 
gev  owld  Geronimo  to  understand  that  his  wimmen  would  be 
well  treated,  and  the  min  would  not  be  hanged — annyways  not 
widout  further  arders.  And  be  this  manes  the  renegades  were 
pursuaded  to  lay  down  their  arms. 

"  'Twas  a  pitiful  sight  to  see  them  little  half-starved  papooses 
come  troopin'  into  the  lines,  wid  their  big  eyes  lookin'  wild,  and 
their  little  hearts  thumpin'  agin  the  bare  ribs  wid  the  fear  av 
bein'  murdered.  But  the  owld  buck  wuz  clane  whipped,  ar  he 
niver  wud  have  give  up.     And  they  all  kem  in  draggin'  their 


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THE  CONSTANT  ONES  357 

tails  like  coyotes  sneakin'  into  a  sheep  camp  to  git  away  from  the 
hounds. 

"We  took  good  care  av  the  prisoners  this  trip,  don't  ye  fergit 
it;  for  they'd  slipped  through  our  hand  wanst  befoor.  But  the 
c'mandin'  a'f'cer  hed  a  white  elefant  an  his  hands  whin  we  got 
thim  back  to  Grant.  The  citizins  fair  wint  wild  at  the  suggestyin 
av  turnin'  awld  Geronimo  loose  an  the  reservashin  agin.  They 
niver  could  rist  at  all  until  he  was  disposed  av.  And  owld  maid 
ladies  way  up  beyand  Vegas  would  tumble  out  av  their  beds  av 
nights,  dramin'  they  wuz  bein'  abducted  be  the  San  Carlos 
Apaches. 

•'So  the  tin  gods  finally  decided  that  the  renegades  shud  be  sint 
East.  And  we  tuck  owld  Geronimo,  and  about  fower  hundred  av 
the  Warm  Springs  and  Chiricahuas — ^which  wuz  the  most  ram- 
pajis  element  av  the  tribe — and  we  located  thim  at  Sill,  in  the 
Nation,  as  prisoners  av  war  and  wards  av  the  Governmint.  And 
ye'U  find  thim  there  now,  what's  left  av  them. 

"Whin  I  wuz  an  furlough,  Dutchy  Belz,  the  Rooshin — ray- 
cintly  discharged  from  B  troop — was  tellin'  me  the  owld  lobo 
is  still  enj'yin'  good  hilth,  and  livin'  as  daycint  as  a  Protestint 
missionary,  ar  a  rooky  in  the  guarrd  house.  But  I  make  no  doubt 
the  owld  b'y  would  be  daylighted  to  jine  his  friends  an  one  more 
little  throat-cuttin'  sayance  over  the  border,  fer  the  sake  av  owld 
times. 

"Ye'd  better  be  gittin'  ready  fer  stables,"  he  concluded.  "I  see 
the  captain  comin'  down  the  line."  And  the  old  trooper,  working 
himself  up  to  his  full  height  by  a  series  of  grunts  and  hitches, 
for  his  joints  were  stiflfened  by  the  strain  of  many  arduous  cam- 
paigns, limped  into  barracks  and  busied  himself  about  his  equip- 
ments, and  the  audience  fell  out. 

Bldorado,  Kan. 


THE  CONSTANT  ONES 

By  NORA  MAY  FRENCH 
^i|HE  tossing  trees  had  every  flag  unfurled 
^[        To  hail  their  chief,  but  now  the  sun  is  set. 

And  in  this  sweet  new  quiet  on  the  world 
The  king  is  dead,  the  fickle  leaves  forget. 

A  placid  earth,  an  air  serene  and  still. 

In  misty  blue  the  gradual  smoke  is  thinned — 

Only  the  grasses,  leaning  to  his  will. 
The  grasses  hold  a  memory  of  wind. 

Los  Anffeles 

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358 


THE  FIRST  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER 

By  W.J.  HANDY 

ni 

August  22,  1846. 

NEWS  FROM   BELOW. 

FFICERS,  soldiers  and  prisoners  have  been  arriving  here  all  the  week 
from  Castro's  camp. 
Capt.  Goaquin  De  La  Torre  came  in  on  Tuesday  from  whom  we 
gathered  all  the  information  we  have. 

Mr.  Washburn  an  American  who  was  a  prisoner  only  confirms  the  main 
facts  stated  by  Torre,  being  confined  he  had  but  little  opportunity  of  learning 
any  of  their  plans. 

De  La  Torre  says,  that  when  Castro  learned  that  Capt.  Fremont  had 
reached  the  town  of  Angeles,  about  12  hours  march  from  him,  he  broke 
camp  in  the  night,  buried  his  cannon  and  left  in  the  direction  of  Sonora. 
At  his  first  camp  from  Poeblo,  he  gave  permission  to  as  many  as  chose  to 
return  home,  the  while  force  consisting  of  about  200.  He  thinks  that  about 
60  followed  Castro  and  Pico  but  Mr  Washburn  says  that  he  understood 
that  there  were  but  16,  officers  and  soldiers,  they  kept  Mr.  Weaver,  one  of 
the  prisoners  with  them. 

Most  of  those  who  followed  the  Govenor  were  persons  who  had  committed 
so  many  crimes  they  were  afraid  of  justice,  the  remainder  have  most  of  them 
returned  to  their  ranches. 

So  far  as  California  is  concerned,  the  war  is  at  an  end.  The  next  thing 
is  to  take  steps  for  the  organization  of  a  Territorial  Government. 

Lieut  McLane  of  the  ist  Dragoons,  was  in  town  yesterday.  The  company 
has  just  returned  from  another  indian  excursion  to  the  mountains.  The 
Indians  are  beginning  to  find  who  has  the  country,  they  have  divided  into 
small  parties  which  renders  it  next  to  impossible  for  a  company  to  find 
them.  The  only  effectual  means  of  stopping  their  inroads  upon  the  property 
of  the  country  will  be  to  attack  them  in  their  villages,  in  the  California 
mountains.  We  are  in  hopes  that  at  least  a  division  of  that  company  will 
be  sent  down  the  Toolary  valley  and  to  cross  the  mountains  at  the  Bear 
River  pass,  to  meet  the  emigration  on  the  loth  of  September,  at  Trucky's  lake. 
Should  such  a  division  be  sent,  under  command  of  Mr  McLane,  his  suavity 
of  manner  and  gentlemanly  deportment,  with  the  knowledge  he  will  have 
acquired  of  the  country,  will  be  of  great  service  to  the  emigrants,  and  to  the 
country. 

August  29,  1846. 

Emigration  To  California — A  large  party  of  settlers  propose  leaving  Arkan- 
sas for  California  next  May.  The  chairman  of  the  committee  of  arrange- 
ments gives  notice  in  the  Little  Rock  Gazette,  "that  the  Califomians  will 
rendezvous  at  Fort  Smith,  Arkansas,  on  the  first  Monday  in  April  next 
preparatory  to  taking  up  the  line  of  march  for  the  Pacific  coast  Every 
"Person  starting  is  expected  to  be  well  armed  with  a  rifle  or  heavy  shotgun, 
id  pounds  of  shot,  4  lbs  of  powder  &c" 

Two  hundred  Mormons  residing  in  Wanef,  (probably  meant  for  Wayne), 
Oakland  and  Lapeer  counties  Mich,  have  lately  left  to  join  their  brethren 
now  about  emigrating  to  California. 


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THB  FIRST  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER  359 

THE  MORMONS   FOR  OREGON. 

The  following  curious  letter  has  just  been  received  by  Col.  Wentworth  of 
111  member  of  congress, 

Nauvoo  111  Dec  17  1845, 
Sir. — On  the  event  of  an  act  passing  Congress  for  the  erection  of  those 
forts  on  the  Oregon  route,  suggested  in  the  President's  Message,  we  should 
be  pleased  if  you  would  exert  your  influence  in  our  behalf,  as  we  intend  to 
emigrate  west  of  the  mountains  in  the  ensuing  season.  Our  facilities  are 
great,  and  we  are  enabled  to  build  them  at  a  lower  rate  than  any  other 
people.  I  have  written  the  Secretary'  of  War,  on  the  subject,  and  shall  be 
pleased  by  your  co-operation — also  for  transportation  of  the  mail. 

Yours  &c 

Brigham  Young. 
President  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ 
of  Latter  Day  Saints 

NEWS  from  below. 

A  courier  arrived  Thursday  night  bringing  despatches  for  Capt  Merrine 
from  the  Commodore.  The  commodore  with  a  considerable  force  had 
advanced  to  the  town  of  Angeles  where  he  was  joined  by  Capt  Fremont. 
The  difficulty  of  procuring  horses  had  prevented  Capt  Fremont  from  being 
able  to  follow  Gen  Castro  with  any  hope  of  falling  in  with  him. 

Commodore  Stockton  made  prize  of  the  Mexican  Brig  Primerara  but 
released  her  to  her  owners.  The  courier  brings  verbal  news  that  a  division 
of  the  Mexican  army  had  fallen  in  with  the  Mazatlan  troops  under  Com- 
mandte  Raphel  Telles,  and  a  battle  ensued  which  terminated  in  the  defeat 
of  Telles,  who  with  22  other  officers  were  shot  as  rebels. 

CASE  OP  ABSCENCE  OF  MIND. 

Two  men  who  were  cutting  wood  about  4  miles  from  town,  came  in  to 
grind  their  axes.  After  one  of  them  commenced  turning  the  stone,  they 
remembered  they  had  left  their  axes  in  the  country. 

Court  Calendar.  The  first  jury  ever  summoned  in  California  was  em- 
pannelled  in  the  Alcaldes  court  of  this  town  on  the  4th  inst.  It  was 
for  the  trial  of  a  case  in  which  Isaac  Graham  was  plaintiff,  Don  Carlos 
Rousillion  defendent.    The  Jury  was  composed  of  the  following  gentlemen. 

(The  names  given  indicate  that  it  was  part  Americans  and  part  Mexican.) 

The  court  appointed  Mr  Malarian  Loveman  and  Mr  Hartnell,  interpreter. 

The  indictment  alleged  that  a  large  lot  of  lumber  belonging  to  the  plaintiff 
had  been  fraudulently  shipped  off  by  the  defendant.  The  examination  of 
witnesses  occupied  several  hours,  when  the  case  was  submitted  to  the  jury 
by  Mr  Colton,  the  presiding  magistrate. 

The  jury  in  their  verdict,  acquitted  the  defendant  of  all  fraudulent  intention, 
and  found  a  small  balance  of  sixty  five  dollars  due  the  plaintiff.  As  the 
defendant  had  previously  offered  to  settle  this  without  recourse  to  law.  the 
cost  of  prosecution  was  thrown  on  the  plaintiff. 

To  this  enlightened  and  impartial  verdict,  both  parties  bowed,  without  a 
disenting  word,  and  it  is  not  a  little  to  the  credit  of  Mr  Graham  that  pre- 
viously to  leaving  town,  he  left  in  the  Magistrate's  office  the  following  note. 

Magistrate's  Office, 
Monterey,  Sept  4,  1846. 

I  am  satisfied  from  the  investigation  before  the  court  of  Monterey  in  the 


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360  OUT    WEST 

case  pending  between  me  and  Don  Carlos  Rouisillion,  and  from  the  verdict 
of  the  jury  in  the  same,  that  any  remarks  which  may  have  been  made  by  me, 
impeaching  the  moral  honesty  of  said  Rousillion  were  without  just  foundation. 

Signed     Isaac  Graham. 

September  26,  1846. 

San  Francisco  will  yet  be  the  most  important  port  in  California.  It  has 
in  itself  advantages  which  no  other  port  can  rival.  The  navies  of  the  whole 
world  can  fk)at  securely  in  its  sheltered  waters,  and  then  the  valleys  which 
stretch  away  from  its  strand  and  clothed  with  perpetual  verdure,  and  the 
streams  which  roll  into  it  are  never  dry.  These  advantages  will  in  due  time 
exhibit  themselves  in  their  full  luxuriant  force.  They  are  now  pretty  well 
understood  in  the  United  States  and  this  is  the  season  the  great  tide  of 
emigration  sets  there.  Still  Monterey  will  largely  increase  its  present  popula- 
tion and  business.  It  has  the  lead  as  a  commercial  emporium  and  will  prob- 
ably keep  it  for  some  time.  Its  oourtse  is  onward,  its  days  of  discord  and 
difficulty  are  passed. 

Head  Quarters  Monterey  Oct  17.  1846. 

Orders — No  person  will  be  permitted  to  be  in  the  streets  of  this  town  after 
drum  beat,  at  8  o'clock  P  M  and  that  no  person  will  be  permitted  to  pass 
in  the  streets  of  this  town  on  horseback,  after  sunset,  without  my  written 
permission. 

Wm.  A.  T.  Maddox,  Military  Commandant 
of  the  Middle  Department  of  California. 
Same  order  and  all  general  orders  are  repeated  in  Spanish. 

Head  Quartere  Monterey  Oct  31,  1846. 

Orders.  All  persons  immediately  on  arriving  in  this  town,  will  report 
themselves  at  the  office  of  the  Military  Commandant. 

All  persons  leaving  Monterey  are  required  to  procure  passports  from 
the  same. 

W.  A.  T.  Maddox 
Military  Commandant 
Middle   Dept   of   California. 

Gambung — ^A  person  complained  at  the  Magistrate's  office  this  week  that 
an  other  individual  had  taken  off  an  ox  which  t>elonged  to  him.  The  Alcalde 
sent  out  and  had  him  arrested,  but  on  further  enquiry  ascertained  that  they 
had  gambled  for  the  ox,  and  the  loser  had  only  refused  to  deliver  property. 

He  ordered  them  both  into  the  calaboose  for  the  night.  Never  were 
rogues  more  completely  caught  in  their*  own  trap.  The  next  morning  they 
were  brought  into  court,  the  gambling  forfeiture  was  anulled,  the  property 
restored  to  its  rightful  owner,  and  a  sufficient  fine  imposed  to  serve  as  an 
admonition. 

November*  14,  1846. 

Lieut.  Talbot,  with  his  small  brave  party,  arrived  here  on  Sunday  evening 
last.  They  had  been  stationed  at  Santa  Barbara  to  maintain  the  flag;  when 
the  insurrection  broke  out  they  were  surrounded  by  an  overpowering  odds 
to  surrender.  They  refused,  pushed  their  way  into  the  mountains  and  after 
much  suffering  from  hunger  and  thirst  reached  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin. 
They  traveled  nearly  five  hundred  miles,  most  of  the  way  on  foot  and 
carrying  one  o'f  their  sick  companions. 

January  2,  1847. 

CHRISTMAS    HOLIDAYS. 

We  cannot  but  feel  highly  pleased  with  the  hospitally  and  grreat  glee  with 


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THE  FIRST  CALIFORNIA  NEWSPAPER  361 

which  this  sacred  feast  has  been  kept  up  by  our  present  neighbons  in  this 
town.  Exactly  at  twelve  o'clock  P.  M.  on  Christmas  eve  the  church  bells 
began  to  ring  for  Mass,  the  church  having  been  previously  illuminated  and 
bonfires  lit  up  in  various  parts  of  the  town,  the  most  rigid  observances  of 
some  particles  of  the  martial  law,  having  been  by  the  goodness  of  the  Military 
Commandant  of  this  place,  suspended  for  a  few  hours,  though  every  neces- 
sary precaution  was  taken  to  prevent  anything  like  surprise  or  disorder  in  the 
town.  The  inhabitants  were  permitted  to  attend  high  Mass  from  one  o'clock 
A.  M.  on  Christmas  day. 

A  masquerade  being  customary  at  this  time  of  year,  which  is  intended  to 
represent  the  adoration  of  the  shepherds  at  the  birth  of  Our  Saviour,  was 
likewise  got  up:  this  consists  of  six  shepherds,  dressed  in  showy  cloaks, 
each  with  his  staff  gaudeously  ornamented  from  top  to  the  centre  with 
nibands  of  different  colours,  beads,  lace,  &c.  A  boy  who  acted  the  part  of 
the  Archangel  Michael  and  who  was  superbly  dressed  with  a  sky  blue  silk 
tunic,  a  crown  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  false  pearls,  his  wings  dressed 
off  with  muslin  and  lace,  plaid  sandals  and  a  small  sword,  then  came  the 
Devil  with  his  red  tongue,  a  head  dress  of  black  feathers,  a  red  sash  across 
his  left  shoulder  and  knotted  under  his  right  arm,  dressed  in  black  suit 
and  a  grenadiers  sword  in  his  hand,  after  him  came  the  hermit  with  a  mask 
made  of  a  sheep  skin  with  the  wool  on  it,  excepting  the  part  intended  to  form 
the  face,  and  old  Bartholemew  came  next  to  make  up  the  complement  of 
representatives.  The  four  last  persons  have  been  introduced  latterly  into 
the  dramatic  persona  of  this  masquerade  or  farce,  they  do  not  properly  be- 
long to,  or  have  any  connexion  with  the  time  of  our  Saviour's  birth,  but 
have  been  introduced  by  these  people  for  the  purpose  of  giving  the  piece  a 
shadow  of  entertainment. 

These  masquers,  or  as  they  are  termed  here  shepperds,  go  about  from 
house  to  house  whenever  they  may  be  called  upon,  for  the  space  of  three  or 
four  days,  and  a  supper  or  a  luncheon  is  generally  given  to  them  at  each 
house,  and  in  some  cases  money,  though  as  this  is  at  present  a  very  scarce 
article  here,  we  may  reasonably  suppose  that  more  than  was  received  by 
the  ten  persons  employed  as  above,  might  have  been  earned  by  the  same 
number  of  persons  at  almost  any  kind  of  work  in  less  time,  but  old  customs 
are  hard  to  be  got  rid  of. 

Magistrates  Office 

Monterey  Jan   ii,   1847. 

AN  ORDINANCE  KESPECTING  THE  EMPLOYMENT  OF   INDIANS. 

Be  it  known  to  all  persons  residing  in  the  jurisdiction  of  Monterey,  that 
the  Magistrate  of  said  jurisdiction  and  the  board  of  council  have  decreed 
the  following: 

That  no  penson  whatever  shall  from  henceforth,  hire  or  take  into  his 
service  any  Indian  without  a  certificate  from  the  former  employer  of  that 
Indian  stating  that  the  said  employer  has  no  claims  on  the  sevices  of  that 
Indian  for  wages  advanced. 

Any  person  taking  into  his  employment  any  Indian  without  such  certificate, 
and  advancing  any  money  or  property  to  said  Indian,  shall  forfeit  any 
money  or  property  so  advanced,  and  if  it  should  be  proved  that  any  Indian 
has  been  enticed  away  from  the  sevice  of  his  master,  the  person  convicted 
of  having  so  enticed  him  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  not  exceeding  Twenty 
dollars  nor  less  than  Five  dollars. 

Walter  Colton  Chief  Magistrate 

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362  OUT    WEST 

January  i6,  1847. 

AFFAIRS  BELOW. 

We  have  no  official  intelligence  as  yet  from  below.  We  have  rumors  in 
abundance.  Still  we  should  not  be  surprised  if  the  first  news  that  reaches 
us  of  the  result  of  the  movements  at  the  town  of  Angeles  should  be  through 
the  washerwomen  of  Monterey.  They  were  the  first  to  announce  the  taking 
of  the  Pueblo  before  by  Commodore  Stockton  and  the  first  to  spread  the 
news  of  its  being  retaken  by  the  Califomians.  They  knew  before  any  other 
persons  in  Monterey  the  result  of  Captain  Mervin's  march  from  San  Pedro. 
How  they  get  the  news  is  no  concern  of  ours,  but  the  fact  no  one  can 
question.  It  is  the  most  singular  mode  of  getting  intelligence  with  which 
we  are  acquainted;  it  outdoes  the  carrier  pigeon  system  and  throws  into 
shade  even  the  magnetic  telegraph.  Their  last  report  is  that  Commodore 
Stockton  and  Col.  Fremont  were  at  the  town  of  the  Angeles,  that  the  com- 
modore had  reached  there  three  days  before  the  Colonel  and  had  taken 
the  town.  The  greater  portion  of  the  Califomians  had  come  in  and  given 
up  their  arms;  those  who  had  not  had  dispersed — some  for  Sonora,  some 
for  Tulares.  Col.  Fremont  is  close  on  the  trail  of  those  who  had  fled.  So 
runs  the  rumor  as  it  comes  drifting  over  the  suds  of  the  washerwomen. 
[The  actual  date  of  this  re-occupation  of  Angeles  was  Jan.  14,  1847.] 

January  23,  1847. 

The  "Overland*'  mail"  has  arrived  via  Cape  Horn.  Arrival  of  the  U.  S. 
ship  Independence.  She  sailed  from  Boston  Aug.  29,  1846.  Time  of  sailing 
103  days.  "This  is  splendid  sailing,  but  the  Independence  is  one  of  the 
fastest  ships  in  our  service,  as  well  as  the  most  powerful." 

[Wonder  what  those  old  seamen  would  think  if  they  knew  of  the  Oregon, 
with  double  her  complement  of  men  and  guns,  making  almost  the  same 
distance,  with  stoppage  for  coal,  in  less  than  sixty  days.] 

Sam  Brannan  has  just  issued  a  newspaper  in  Yerba  Buena,  small  but  neat 
sheet,  at  six  dollars  a  year. 

Ward  and  Smith  have  received  a  choice  assortment  of  necessaries,  iron, 
rum,  molasses,  sugars,  brandy,  hardware,  beaver  hats,  Scotch  ale,  canvas, 
coffee,  rich  prints,  champagne,  boots  and  shoes  and  other  articles. 

February  6,  1847. 

Mails.  It  is  most  devoutly  to  be  wished  that  as  peace  has  been  restored 
to  the  country,  that  same  one  who  has  the  power  will  use  some  means  to 
open  a  communication  through  the  country.  It  is  a  melancholy  sight  for  a 
poor  Editor  to  look  over  the  packages  of  eight  weeks  of  his  little  paper  and 
see  no  possible  means  of  sending  to  his  subscribers,  and  as  little  encourage- 
ment to  them  to  be  two  months  at  a  time  without  their  papers. 

FROM  THE  SEAT  OF  WAR. 

From  the  reports  that  are  reaching  us  daily,  we  have  no  doubt  Commodore 
Stockton  and  Col.  Fremont  are  now  in  Pueblo  de  los  Angeles.  If  those 
reports  speak  truly,  the  capture  of  this  place  was  succeeded  by  a  flag  of 
truce  from  the  Califomians,  who  had  retired  a  short  distance  from  the  town. 
The  temis  of  pacification  it  was  thought  would  be  arranged  without  further 
hostillities.  If  this  turns  out  to  be  true  the  south  will  soon  be  as  it  was 
before  this  disastrous  outbreak  occurred.  The  North  is  quiet  and  we  have 
no  disturbance  in  and  about  Monterey. 


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363 


To  a  robust  constitution,  nothing  is  catching.  Contagion  it- 
self may  hob-nob  with  unspoiled  nature,  and  find  no  opportunity 
to  lay  hand  on  it.  There  are  some  of  us  who  remember  how  on 
the  older  frontier  not  only  rough  men  but  delicate  women 
thought  nothing  of  receiving  smallpox  convalescents  at  their 
daily  door.  And  since  they  thought  nothing  of  it,  they  obviously 
did  not  take  it. 

It  is  a  curious  index  of  our  present  sociological  physique  that 
there  are  many  excellent  people  who  would  be  infected  if  you 
told  them  that  smallpox  was  in  the  next  county.  A  good  many 
pests,  physical  and  mental,  have  become  epidemic  in  our  acute 
civilization ;  and  perhaps  there  is  no  other  so  devastating,  so  ab- 
surd, and  so  hopeless  of  remedy,  as  the  Current  Literature  Fever. 
There  is  a  large  and  growing  class  of  worthy  citizens  who  would 
as  soon  deny  their  God  as  confess  that  they  had  not  read  the 
latest  novel.  To  be  able  to  discuss  the  Six  Best  Sellers  has  be- 
come as  much  an  article  of  faith  as  any  in  the  Longer  Catechism. 
And  really  it  is  a  distressing  disease.  It  is  a  disease,  because  it 
depends  upon  a  fevered  condition  of  mind;  it  is  distressing,  be- 
cause it  engages  and  absorbs  the  intellectual  activity  God  meant 
should  be  used  for  the  learning  of  something  that  is  worthy  to 
be  remembered  for  at  least  three  days  running.  A  great  many 
clever  people  are  today  writing  things  which  eager  publishers 
purchase — to  sell  at  a  large  profit.  Those  who  have  nothing  bet- 
ter to  do  can  keep  up  with  the  mercantile  publishers  and  the 
commercialized  writers.  But  as  a  matter  of  fact  there  is  Nothing 
In  It.  Neither  the  author,  nor  the  publisher,  nor  the  reader,  re- 
members a  year  from  now  this  momentarily  accelerated  tem- 
perature. 

How  much  more  comfortable  are  they  who  realize  the  under- 
lying fact  1 

"Have  you  read  So-and-So's  This-and-That?" 

"No,  thank  Heaven,  and  I  don't  have  to." 

Probably  no  man  since  Thackeray  has  been  fully  competent  to 


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364  OUT    WEST 

scale  this  extraordinary  obsession  by  the  ephemeral  book;  but 
even  James  L.  Ford  can  give  it  the  entitled  laugh.  This  re- 
ligion of  being  able  to  chatter  about  the  plot  and  the  characters 
of  a  wad  of  transient  paper,  muddled  with  bad  ink  and  bound  in 
unenduring  muslin ;  this  confession  of  faith  today  in  a  creed  you 
shall  have  deserted  by  tomorrow  for  a  new  fetish;  this  prostra- 
tion of  the  mentally-unemployed  before  a  diurnal  idol  whose  fate 
is  to  clutter  forgotten  upon  tomorrow's  ash-heap — all  the  fads 
and  follies  and  ologies  and  isms  of  today  have  nothing  else  quite 
so  lamentable ;  and  as  long  as  this  cult  lasts  it  will  continue  to 
justify  the  philosopher's  gibe  that  no  other  people  in  the  world  so 
much  as  Americans  care  to  Seem  to  Know  things,  and  so  little 
care  really  to  Know. 

"break  It  takes  a  fighter  to  make  peace.    This  is  not  the  para- 

away!"  Jq3^  jt  seems.  Even  in  the  homely  walks  of  daily  life 
we  are  aware  that  riots  are  stopped  not  by  Quakers  with 
the  other  cheek,  but  by  the  policeman  with  a  club. 

It  is  rather  obvious  to  the  student  of  history  that  no  other 
ruler  of  the  civilized  world  was  so  well  fitted  to  command  the 
peace  between  nations  as  the  President  of  the  United  States; 
and  that  no  other  recent  president,  even  in  this  country,  was  so 
qualified  for  this  delicate  task  as  the  only  man  of  them  whose 
natural  bent  is  a  fight  The  really  peaceful  man  does  not  under- 
stand what  war  means.  As  he  does  not  comprehend  the  full  size 
of  war,  neither  can  he  g^asp  the  broad  meaning  of  its  opposite. 
It  takes  a  man  who  prefers  to  fight,  when  necessary,  to  realize 
fully  the  worth  of  an  active  refraining  from  this  very  human  im- 
pulse. 

The  most  graphic  service  that  Roosevelt  has  done  mankind 
is  perhaps  his  almost  impudent  intervention  between  two  war- 
ring nations  of  the  Old  World.  And  it  is  not  a  service  only  but 
an  example  and  a  precedent  which  can  neither  be  forgotten  by 
his  peers  nor  neglected  by  any  ruler  henceforth  who  aims  at  the 
betterment  of  international  conditions. 

But  while  this  was  the  most  sensational  exercise  of  his  man- 
hood, the  slow  student  who  looks  behind  even  the  daily  paper 
will  probably  still  feel  that  up  to  date  the  greatest  service  this 
unspoiled  man  has  rendered  his  age  is  the  encouragement  of  his 
countrymen  to  believe  that  there  is  some  use  in  standing  for  the 
peaceful  betterment  of  our  own  national  conditions. 

SEND  THEM  Pcoplc  who  have  not  time  to  pronounce  California 

BACK  TO  names  do  not  really  belong  in  California.     Those  who 

*'^®"*'^     have  been  here  long  enough  to  wear  out  a  few  pairs  of 

shoes,  and  to  think  a  little,  are  getting  together,  seriously,  for 


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IN  THE  LION'S  DBN  365 

the  preservation  of  historic  titles  which  add  so  much  to  the  ro- 
mance— and  therefore  to  the  business  assets — of  the  State. 

The  War  Department  has  established  a  fine  precedent  in  this 
matter;  the  Postoffice  Department  has  already  undone  some  of 
the  ignorant  mutilations  perpetrated  by  its  unconsidered  clerks ; 
even  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  has  begun  to  sit  up  and  take 
notice,  and  has  now  circulated  a  sensible  little  pamphlet  pleading 
for  the  retention  of  the  historic  California  place-names. 

San  Francisco  has  long  set  an  excellent  example  in  this  re- 
gard. Only  tenderfeet  say  "Frisco" — and  a  beautiful  public  sen- 
timent has  g^own  up  in  the  metropolis  against  this  barbarism. 
There  is  probably  no  one  word  which  will  so  affront  a  San  Fran- 
ciscan as  this  stupid  and  lazy  nickname. 

The  like  intelligent  public  spirit  is  now  active  in  San  Buena- 
ventura. There  are  good  people  there  who  have  not  happened 
to  think  about  it,  who  think  the  present  bob-tailed  name  in- 
flicted by  an  economical  clerk  in  Washington  is  good  enough. 
There  is  little  doubt,  however,  that  San  Buenaventura  has  enough 
citizens  of  the  more  thoughtful  sort.  The  following  petition  is 
now  being  circulated  there  and  speaks  for  itself: 

To   the  Hon.   Theodore   Roosevelt,   President  of  the 
United  States:: 

Your  petitioners,  residents  of  the  city  of  San  Buena- 
ventura, California,  respectfully  represent: 

That  so  early  as  1769  this  spot  was  selected  by  the 
first  inland  expedition  to  California  as  the  location  for 
the  third  European  settlement  of  the  Pacific  Coast  of 
what  is  now  the  United  States : 

That  in  1782  it  was  formally  dedicated  and  colonized 
under  the  originally  selected  name  of  San  Buenaventura, 
in  honor  of  "the  Seraphic  Doctor,"  famed  in  Franciscon 
annals : 

That  for  123  years  the  locality  has  borne  this  name 
and  that  this  is  now  its  legal  title : 

That  a  few  years  ago  the  PostoflSce  Department 
docked  this  historic  name  to  Ventura,  which  is  Spanish 
for  "luck"  or  "fortune,"  and  carries  no  historic  associa- 
tion. 

Wherefore,  knowing  your  interest  in  the  preservation 
of  historic  names — as  evidenced  for  instance,  in  the 
restoration  of  the  proper  title  of  Wilkes-Barri,  in  Penn- 
sylvania— ^your  petitioners  respectfully  request  that  you 
direct  the  official  restoration  by  the  Postoffice  Depart- 
ment of  the  proper  name  this  city  has  borne  since  before 
Washington's  "Farewell  Address."    We  beg  also  to  cite 

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366  OUT    WEST 

you  to  the  joint  resolutions  of  the  State  legislature  urg- 
ing the  preservation  of  old  names  in  California  as  far  as 
possible. 
It  probably  is  not  necessary  to  argue  such  a  case.    The  des- 
tinies of  California,  we  may  feel  sure,  are  in  the  hands  of  the 
kind  of  people  that  need  no  such  argument.    It  is  a  matter  of  both 
taste  and  patriotism.    When  the  old  Bay  State  is  willing  to  call 
her  most  famous  battle  field  "Bunk,"  instead  of  Bunker  Hill; 
when  Los  Angeles  is  mostly  infested  with  people  who  think  that 
" Angie"  would  be  a  more  "progressive"  name ;  when  Santa  Bar- 
bara is  ready  to  renounce  her  sainthood  and  her  history  for  lazi- 
ness' sake — in  a  word,  when  Americans  in  general  are  "too  tired" 
to  use  respectable  speech — ^why  then  probably  we  will  all  be 
reconciled  to  the  impudent  curtailing  of  California  names  by  $75 
ignoramuses  in  Washington  bureaus.    But  not  until  then.. 

SAINTS  Speaking  of  place-names,  however,  there  may  be  some- 

WHn.E  YOU  times  even  too  much  of  a  good  thing — and  an  overcrowd- 

WAIT 

ing  of  the  Spanish  hagiology.  Up  in  Lake  county  there 
is  someone  more  respectful  than  the  Postoffice  Department,  but 
not  much  better  informed.  Everything  considered,  perhaps  the 
funniest  place-name  in  California  is  San  Hedrin,  on  the  Califor- 
nia Northern.  To  find  the  ancient  superior  court  of  the  Chosen 
People  subdivided  and  capitalized  to  masquerade  as  a  Spanish 
saint  is  one  of  the  few  redeeming  experiences  of  those  whose  or- 
dinary touch  is  with  the  opposite  stupidity  of  killing  oflF  saints 
where  they  belong. 

HAVING  EYES  Auothcr  "California  pioneer"  declares  that  the  Camino 

THEY  Real  was  a  "m3rth."     In  1850  he  "visited  every  pueblo 

SEE  NOT  ^^^  mission  from  San  Diego  to  San  Francisco,  and  there 
was  no  such  thing  as  the  King's  Highway."  Scholars  soon  learn 
not  to  be  astonished  at  the  capacity  of  certain  people  to  spend 
their  lives  in  a  country  without  finding  out  anything  about  it. 
There  are  many  estimable  persons  who  have  the  claim  of  almost 
immemorial  residence,  but  who  have  never  learned  any  one  of 
the  scores  of  languages  which  preceded  them  in  California.  And 
not  only  languages,  but  the  historic  record. 

Junipero  Serra,  the  pioneer  and  founder ;  Father  Palou,  the  first 
historian  of  California;  and  many  another  authority  of  the  days 
when  the  Camino  Real  was  a  fact,  may  be  presumed  to  know 
what  they  were  talking  about.  They  knew  and  recorded  the 
Camino  Real.  Anyone  who  has  come  since  and  failed  to  learn 
this  matter  of  the  archives  is  not  to  be  blamed  for  anything  more 
serious  than  lack  of  investigation. 
There  was  a  Camino  Real,  as  every  competent  student  knows. 


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IN   THE   LION'S  DEN  367 

The  romantic  old  highway  will  be  rehabilitated  and  made  a 
modern  utility  whenever  the  enterprise  is  undertaken  in  the  right 
spirit.  The  right  spirit  means  an  understanding  of  what  was  and 
of  what  needs  to  be,  and  a  sincere  attempt  to  re-create  for  present 
use  this  historic  route.  This  is  something  more  than  a  job  and 
salary,  or  an  automobile  speedway. 

While  thoughtful  people  all  over  California  are  agitat-  other 
ing  the  restoration  and  the  preservation  of  historic  place-  historic 

names;  and  while  the  Landmarks  Club  and  other  good  names 

Californians  have  induced  the  Secretary  of  War  to  restore  the 
historic  name  of  the  Presidio  of  Monterey,  and  the  Postoffice 
Department  to  replace  sixteen  or  seventeen  of  the  proper  town- 
names  (with  prospect  of  restoring  the  rest)  that  ignorant  clerks 
in  Washington  have  boggled;  while  the  Southern  Pacific  Rail- 
road has  awakened  to  the  business  sense  of  such  procedure ;  and 
while  the  local  conscience  of  the  towns  whose  baptismal  names 
have  been  made  ridiculous  by  unentitled  and  pettifogging  rou- 
tme  clerks  is  aroused — it  looks  to  be  time  for  a  concerted  move- 
ment to  push  still  further  this  same  obvious  principle. 

Even  our  mountains  deserve  some  consideration — a  peak 
named  200  years  ago  for  a  great  historical  character  should  not 
be  allowed  in  this  day  of  education  to  be  nick-named  after  some 
cheap  nonentity  or  by  vulgar  slang.  It  does  not  make  much 
difference  to  the  mountain — which,  being  porphyry  or  granite  or 
other  enduring  material,  can  stand  it — ^but  it  makes  a  lot  of  dif- 
ference to  the  community  which  accustoms  itself  to  the  name, 
whether  that  name  be  a  dignified  and  historic  one  or  an  imper- 
tinent tag  of  bad  taste.  It  cannot  be  possible  that  an  educated 
community,  when  it  realizes  that  the  noblest  mountains  in 
Southern  California  were  christened — long  before  any  English- 
speaking  persons  ever  saw  the  state — San  Antonio  for  St.  An- 
thony, and  San  Bernardino  for  St.  Bernard,  and  so  on,  should 
permanently  be  content  to  call  them  "Old  Baldy"  and  "Grey- 
back" — the  latter  being  the  army  euphemism  for  a  louse.  The 
highest  peak  in  the  United  States  is  properly  named  Whitney 
for  the  great  geologist,  whose  name — despite  his  serious  official 
blunders  concerning  California — is  honorably  and  historically 
interwoven  with  the  record  of  the  State.  The  great  range  which 
is  a  continuation  of  the  New  World  Alps,  properly  retains  its 
first  historic  name,  and  there  is  no  danger  that  it  will  ever  be 
called  by  any  other  title  than  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  "Coast 
Range"  has  as  good  warrant  of  dignity  and  of  history.  And  so 
on,  in  general.    But  there  are  some  howling  exceptions. 

Probably  the  worst  is  that  noble  peak  in  Washington,  second 


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368  OUT    WEST 

in  height  of  all  the  elevations  in  the  United  States,  whose  proper 
name  is  Mt.  Tacoma,  and  whose  god-child  is  one  of  the  typical 
progressive  cities  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  This  peak  has  found  its 
way  into  the  government  maps  as  Mt.  Rainier ;  and  it  is  lament- 
able to  see  how  many  good  people  fall  in  with  this  bad  precedent. 

The  first  record  of  the  name  of  the  mountain  is  Tacoma — an 
Indian  word,  as  are  thousands  of  the  most  familiar  place-names 
and  peak-names  in  America.  In  May,  1782,  the  British  explorer 
Vancouver  (exploring  this  coast  for  the  purpose  of  securing  it 
for  English  dominion)  sighted  a  noble  snow-peak  and  named  it 
Mt.  Baker  in  honor  of  his  third  lieutenant  A  few  days  later 
he  came  in  sight  of  a  taller  and  more  kingly  peak  and  named  it 
"after  my  friend  Rear-Admiral  Rainier."  Vancouver  was  an 
illustrious  explorer,  though  neither  this  coast  nor  this  country 
is  in  his  debt.  He  is  to  be  honored  for  his  friendship  to  his  third 
lieutenant,  and  to  his  friend  in  the  British  navy.  But  there  is 
no  reason  in  this  why  he  should  saddle  the  American  dictionary 
with  an  undeserved  word. 

Rear-Admiral  Rainier  was  doubtless  a  worthy  man,  or  Van- 
couver would  not  have  liked  him.  But  he  was  not  an  important 
man  even  in  the  British  navy — ^and  he  was  not  so  much  as  a 
scratch  on  the  world's  history.  You  will  look  in  vain  for  his 
name  in  the  Encyclopedia  Britannica,  in  the  Century  Dictionary 
of  Names,  in  the  Standard  Dictionary,  in  Bancroft,  in  Hittell,  or 
in  any  other  encyclopedia  or  history  familiar  to  our  day.  His 
name  has  vanished  from  off  the  records  of  his  own  country.  It 
survives  in  history  only  by  its  accidental  application  to  a  mount- 
ain which  is  worthy  a  taller  god-father. 

The  Sierra  Club,  which  is  doing  such  noble  work  in  making 
known  the  glorious  Pacific  peaks,  ought  to  frown  upon  this  his- 
toric impertinence  and  ought  to  stand  for  the  restoration  of  the 
historic  name.  The  Landmarks  Club  will  be  glad  to  assist — or 
will  take  up  the  fight  alone.  The  mountain  used  to  be  Tacoma ; 
and  still  is,  with  those  who  more  thoughtfully  use  the  local  no- 
menclature. The  city  is,  and  will  be  Tacoma.  There  is  a  very 
good  beer  known  as  Rainier  beer.  Let  us  honor  the  unidentified 
British  rear-admiral  by  leaving  him  to  be  its  trade-mark,  and 
it  to  be  his  monument. 

Chas.  F.  Lummis. 


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3b9 
THE  SOUTHWEST  SOQETY 

Archasolojical  Institute  of  America. 

Prtsidtnit  J.  S.  Slausom. 
Tic*-PrMideatt:  G«a.  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  Editor  Los  Angeles  Times;  Fredk.  H.  Rindfft, 
Prest.  ConserratiTe  Life  Ins.  Co.;  Geo.  F.  Borard,  Prest.  U.  ef  S.  C;  Dr.  Norman  Bridge. 
Secretary,  Chas.  F.  Lammis.  BxecntiTe  Committee,  Major  E.  W.  Jones, 

TrmMmnt.  W.  C.  Pmtteno..  Prwt.  I«>.  An-  J*«"  »!»7  tJ^V  r"""  »"  *"  f°'^l' 

«.te.N.U<»ulBuik.  ?""*•  City  Schools,  I^  f'i?"''    3' 

Lnngren,  Clias.  F.  Lnmmis,  Dr.  F.  M. 
Recorder  and  Cnrator,  Dr.  F.  M.  Paln^r.  Palmer,  Tlieodore  B.  Comstock. 

ADVnOMY  coumcil: 
Tlie  foreffoinff  officers  and 
H.  W.  0*MelTeny,  Loe  Angeles.  Geo.  W.  Marston,  San  Dieco. 

I«omis  A.  Dreyfus,  Santa  Barbara.  Jolin  G.  North,  RiTsrside. 

Chas.  Cassatt  Daris,  I«os  Angeles.  B.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel. 

Charles  Anuulon  Moody,  Los  An^elee.  Rt.  Rev.  Thos.  J.  Conaty,  Los  Angeles. 

Walter  R.  Bacon,  Los  Angeles.  Rt.  ReT.  Joseph  H.  Johnson,      ** 

Dr.  J.  H.  McBrlde,  Pasadena.  Dr.  John  T.  Martindale,  ** 

*HoNOKAKT  LxFS  Mbmbbks  :  Hon.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  Washington  ;  Chas.  Bllot 
Norton.  LL.  D.,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

Life  Members;  Prof .  C.  C.  Bragdon,  Pres.  Lasell  Seminary,  Anbnrndale,  Mass.;  Rev. 
Jnan  Caballeria,  Plasa  Church,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.:  Chas.  Deering-,  2645  Sheridan  Road, 
Branston,  111.;  Mrs.  Bra  S.  Finyee,  251  8.  Orange  Grove  Ave»  Pasadena.  Cal.;  Miss  Mira 
Hershey.  350  S.  Grand  Ave..  Los  Auffelee,  Cal.;  Major  B.  W.  Jonee,  San  Gabriel,  Cal; 
Homer  Laughlin,  Langhlin  Bldg'..Loe  Angeles.  Cal.;  Los  Angeles  State  Normal  School, 
Los  Angelee,  CaL  (Gift  of  Senior  A.  Class,  1904);  E.  P.  Ripley,  Pres.  A.  T.  A  S.  F.  R.  R., 
Chicago,  111.;  St.  Vincent's  College,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  Santa  Clara  College,  Sanu  Clara, 
CaL;  Jamee  Slanson,  Bradbury  Bldg*.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  O.  S.  A.  Sprague,  Pasadena 
Cal.;  J.  Downey  Harvey.  San  Francisco,  Cal.;  John  A.  McCall,  Prest.  N.  T.  Life  Ins.  Co.; 
Mrs.  Eleanor  Martin,  San  Francisco;  Edwin  T.  BUrl,  Los  Angeles;  Wm.  Keith,  San 
Francisco;  Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Hart,  Los  Angeles;  W.  P.  Wesselhoeft,  M.  D.,  Boston  ; 
Dwicht  Whitinir,  Miss  A.  Amelia  Smead,  Los  Angeles. 

KBPKBSBlfTATIVBS  IN  TBB  COUNCIL  OP  THB  A.  I.  ▲. 

Theo.  B.  Comstock  F.  M.  Palmer  F.  H.  Rindge 

Mary  E.  Foy  Chas.  F.  Lummis  C.  E.  Ramsey 

J.  S.  Slanson,  ejc-officio  Mrs.  W.  H.  Honsh 

*By  their  consent,  and  subscribed  by  the  Southwest  Society. 


^ftHE  First  Arizona  expedition  of  the  Southwest  Society  is 
^j^  now  in  the  field  hard  at  work,  and  securing  extraordi- 
nary results.  It  is  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  F.  M. 
Palmer,  curator  of  the  Society.  Permission  to  conduct  these  sci- 
entific explorations  upon  the  public  domain  has  been  secured 
rather  in  despite  of  Red  Tape.  Every  important  museum  in  the 
United  States  already  has  valuable  collections  from  this  region. 
It  is  high  time  that  the  only  museum  in  the  world  devoted  to  the 
Southwest  particularly  should  have  an  adequate  exhibit  from  its 
home  field. 

The  Site  Committee  for  the  Southwest  Museum  is  actively  at 
work,  viewing  and  seeking  proper  locations  for  the  building 
which  it  is  proposed  shall  be  the  noblest  piece  of  architecture  in 
California.  Several  important  proffers  have  been  received.  This 
winter  the  active  work  of  founding  the  Southwest  Museum  will 
be  prosecuted  aggressively. 

The  preparation  of  a  volume  of  California  and  Southwestern 
folk-songs  goes  on  steadily  and  rapidly  and  in  expert  hands.  The 
Southwest  Museum  continues  to  attract  important  historic  dona- 


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tions  and  pledges.  Among  recent  acquisitions  may  be  mentioned 
the  Libby  Prison  flag,  from  the  son  of  the  man  who  hauled  it 
down;  a  series  of  intimate  relics  of  the  Ku  Klux  Klan  from  the 
son  of  the  man  in  whose  house  that  curious  political  organization 
was  founded^  and  so  on. 

Since  the  last  issue  of  this  magazine  the  Southwest  Society 
has  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  by  death  one  of  its  vice-presidents, 
Mr.  Frederick  H.  Rindge.  Appropriate  resolutions  were  adopted 
by  the  Executive  Committee  and  transmitted  to  the  family.  Mr. 
Rindge  was  by  nature  interested  in  the  very  work  the  South- 
west Society  is  organized  to  pursue;  and  had  he  lived  would 
doubtless  have  done  his  large  share  toward  enabling  this  public 
utility. 

Mr.  W.  D.  Campbell,  whose  name  is  associated  with  the  in- 
valuable collection  of  Southern  California  archaeology,  known 
as  the  Palmer-Campbell  collection,  and  who  materially  added  to 
it  after  its  first  making  by  Dr.  Palmer,  has  subscribed  $25  to  fill 
the  deficit  on  its  purchase  price. 

The  growth  of  the  Society  still  continues;  and  there  is  no 

question  that  it  will  maintain  the  enormous  lead  it  has  already 

gained  over  its  elders  in  this  scientific  affiliation.    Since  the  last 

month's  issue  of  this  magazine  the  following  new  members  have 

been  enrolled: 

Joseph  Scott,  Esq.  Geo.  A.  Dorscy,  Curator  Field  Col- 
N.  W.  StowelL  umbian  Museum,  Chicago,  IlL 
Joseph  G.  Butler,  Jr.,  Youngtown,  O.  Geo.  E.  Bittinger,  Cashier  Los  An- 
J.  Loew,  Prest  Capitol  Milling  Co.  geles  Nat'l  Bank. 
Eugene    Germain,    Prest     Germain  All  of  Los  Angeles  except  as  other- 
Fruit  Co.                                      ^  wise  stated. 
Hon.  Reamer  Ling,  St  Johns,  Ariz. 
W.   B.   Cline    Prest.   L.   A.   C?as   & 
Electric  Co. 

Under  a  recent  amendment  of  the  constitution  the  Executive 

Committee  has  been  enlarged.    It  now  consists  of  Major  E.  W. 

Jones,  Miss  Mary  E.  Foy,  Prof.  J.  A.  Foshay,  Mrs.  W.  H.  Housh, 

Joseph  Scott,  Esq.,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer,  Prof.  Theo.  B.  Comstock, 

Dr.  J.  H.  Martindale,  Wm.  B.  Burnham  (Orange),  Chas.  F.  Lum- 

mis. 


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371 

A   MAN   AND   HIS   HAIR 

[QUA  HIS,  a  native-born  American  of  Yuma,  did 
something  that  John  S.  Spear  did  not  like.  His 
happened  to  be  an  Indian;  Spear  happened  to 
be  Indian  Agent.     Spear  had  probably  never 
read  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  but 
he  was  "Strong  on  "Alice  in  Wonderland" — 
"Til  be  judge,  ril  be  jury,' 
Said  cunning  old  Fury — 
I'll  try  the  whole  cause 
And  condemn  you  to  death." 
He  didn't  bother  to  try  Aqua  His.    As  blithely  as  a  Czar  he 
had  his  hirelings  fall  upon  his  ward  and  cut  off  his  hair  violently 
and  convict  fashion. 

Of  course  Mr.  Spear  wouldn't  have  dared  try  this  with  a  white 
man.  If  he  had,  the  white  man  would  either  have  killed  him  or 
made  his  face  a  long  and  careful  study  for  Mr.  Spear's  mother 
to  realize.  The  Indian  was  more  lawful.  He  sought  redress  by 
due  process  of  American  law. 

The  Superior  Court  of  Riverside  county  gave  him  exemplary 
damages.  The  decision  of  Judge  Noyes  is  so  full  of  law,  equity 
and  good  horse  sense  that  the  following  condensation  of  it  is  filed 
as  part  of  the  printed  record : 

It  is  readily  discernible  from  the  pleadings  and  evidence  that  defendant 
justifies  his  action  on  the  ground  of  his  being  an  Indian  Agent,  with  full 
authority  to  thus  punish  a  reservation  Indian  for  an  infraction  of  the  rules. 
Assuming  without  argument  or  admission  that  plaintiff  committed  an  offense 
under  the  rules  of  the  Department,  *  *  ♦  the  real  question  of  the  case 
is,  did  the  defendant,  in  thus  cutting  off  the  hair  of  the  plaintiff,  act  within 
the  accepted  rules  of  the  law,  and  also  within  his  rights  as  such  Indian 
Agent,  and  if  he  did  so  act,  whether  he  is  exculpated  from  all  blame?  To 
answer  this  proposition,  a  general  review  of  the  law  questions  pertinent  to 
the  issue  is  necessary.  The  Revised  Statutes  of  the  United  States,  Section 
2058,  state  that  "it  is  the  duty  of  an  Indian  Agent  to  manage  and  superin- 
tend the  intercourse  of  the  Indians  of  his  agency  agreeable  to  law,  and  to 
perform  such  duties  not  inconsistent  with  law  as  may  be  prescribed  by  the 
rrcsident.  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  or  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs." 
♦  ♦  *  It  is  obvious  *  *  *  that  all  regulations  of  the  President  and  his 
subordinate  officers  must  be  not  "inconsistent  with  law/'  It  is  further  to 
be  observed  that  the  agent  is  to  manage  and  superintend  the  intercourse  with 
the  Indians  of  his  agency,  "agreeable  to  law."  Among  the  rules  adopted  by 
the  Interior  Department  for  the  regulation  of  the  agent  and  Indian  police 
I  find  the  following:  "Disturbances  or  tumults  should  be  quelled  if  possible 
by  quiet  dispersion  of  the  crowd,  but  if  moderate  measures  fail  of  success 
the  offenders  must  be  dispersed  by  force,  and  the  principals  arrested.  Before 
making  an  arrest  it  needs  only  to  be  ascertained  that  the  offense  charged 
constitutes  a  crime  or  misdemeanor,  for  which  a  person  can  be  lawfully 
detained,  and  that  the  ground  for  the  charge  is  reasonable.  The  party  ar- 
rested must  be  taken  before  the  agent  and  disposed  of  as  he  may  direct."  It 
becomes  doubly  apparent  from  these  statutory  and  departmental  regulations 
that  the  agent  can  nflt  be  empowered  with  authority  except  it  be  ''agreeable 
to  law,"  and  not  "inconsistent"  therewith,  and  that  before  making  an  arrest 
the  party  apprehended  must  be  guilty  or  accused  of  an  offense  which  is  a 
'*crime  or  misdemeanor"  and  that  it  was  only  for  the  commission  of  such 
o£Fense8  that  he  may  be  "lawfully  detained."  These  provisions  are  emi- 
nently plain  and  explicit    They  invest  the  legally  constituted  Government 


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372  OUT    WEST 

agent,  from  the  President  down  to  the  Indian  Agent  himself,  with  authority 
to  manage  and  control  the  reservation  Indians  only  in  a  manner  "agreeable 
to  law,"  and  not  contrary  to  the  Constitution  or  the  Statutes  of  the  Federal 
Government.  Should  such  regulations  require  the  agent  to  violate  law,  they 
would  become  in  their  inception  and  purpose  wholly  illegal  and  void.  This 
proposition  does  not  admit  of  a  doubt,  and  likewise  any  act  of  the  agent,  if 
predicated  upon  this  asstmied  but  illegal  investiture  of  authority,  would 
likewise  be  wholly  illegal  and  void. 

Assuming  therefore,  these  statements  to  be  correct,  the  only  question  re- 
maining is  this:  Has  the  defendant,  as  agent  of  the  Yuma  Indian  Reserva- 
tion, the  right  as  a  matter  of  law  or  under  the  regulations  of  the  Department 
to  thus  cut  the  hair  from  the  head  of  the  plaintiff  without  his  consent  as  a 
penalty  for  the  alleged  offense  plaintiff  was  accused  of? 

To  my  mind  there  can  be  but  one  answer  to  this  proposition.  The  Ameri- 
can Indian  is  a  human  being,  and  when  not  maintaining  their  tribal  relations, 
they  may  become  independent  citizens  of  the  United  States.  As  wards,  that 
is  when  maintaining  tribal  relations  and  under  reservation  regulations,  they 
are  still  human  beings,  and  possess  all  the  rights  incident  to  and  inseparable 
from  native  and  free-bom  citizens.  The  President,  Secretary  of  the  Interior 
and  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  possess  no  right  under  the  law  to  punish 
him  for  crime  prior  to  or  without  a  preceding  conviction  for  a  crime  or  mis- 
demeanor in  a  court  reco^ized  as  such  by  the  law.  The  law  relegates  that 
right  to  the  courts  exclusively.  It  is  only  in  the  courts  of  the  Federal  Gov- 
ernment that  an  Indian  as  well  as  a  white  man  can  be  tried  for  a  violation 
of  a  penal  statute,  and  it  is  only  after  such  conviction  in  such  court  that  he 
can  be  le^lly  punished  for  crimes  or  misdemeanors.  I  find  no  provision  of 
the  Constitution  or  the  laws  that  invests  the  President  or  any  of  the  Govern- 
ment Departments  with  authority  to  try  or  punish  offenders  for  legally  recog- 
nized offenses  except  it  be  through  judicial  instrumentality,  such  as  are  pro- 
vided by  law.  The  agent  may  regulate  the  conduct  of  the  Indian  in  so  far 
as  it  is  necessary  to  carry  out  the  purposes  and  objects  of  the  laws  govern- 
ing Indian  reservations.  He  may  arrest  him  for  crime  and  hold  him — ^but  onl^ 
to  the  extent  and  for  the  purpose  of  delivering  him  to  the  properly  consti- 
tuted authorities  for  trial  and  punishment  I  find  no  law  whereby  the  agent 
may  hold  and  punish  plaintiff  for  assisting  and  aiding  in  the  delivery  of  a 
brother  Indian  from  the  reservation  police,  any  more  than  he  could  for 
murder,  arson  or  any  other  felony.  The  Indian,  though  a  ward,  has  the 
right  when  accused  of  crime  or  misdemeanor  to  be  represented  by  an  attor- 
ney, to  be  confronted  in  court  by  witnesses,  and  to  enjoy  the  ri^ht  of  a  trial 
by  jury,  etc.  He  is  safe-guarded  in  all  these  fundamental  rights  by  the 
Constitution  itself,  and  laws  enacted  in  pursuance  thereto.  He  could  not, 
even  if  he  would,  when  accused  and  on  trial  for  crime  or  misdemeanors, 
alienate  or  stipulate  away  any  of  these  rights.  So  zealous  is  the  Government 
under  its  constitutional  authority  in  maintaining  the  absolute  inviolability  of 
personal  rights  and  the  liberty  of  the  people,  that  it  will  not  even  permit  a 
voluntary  forfeiture  or  alienation  of  these  rights  on  examination  or  trial.  If 
plaintiff  can  be  deprived  of  these  rights  under  the  charge  made  against  him 
in  this  case,  it  will  be  equally  in  the  power  of  the  authorities  to  deprive 
him  of  the  same  rights  for  murder  or  arson  or  any  other  felony,  and  it  fol- 
lows therefore,  as  night  the  day,  that  if  he  cannot  be  thus  tried  for  "crimes 
and  misdemeanors"  by  any  tribunal  except  the  courts,  he  certainly  cannot 
be  punished  by  any  other  power  or  authority.  The  regulations  of  the  Presi- 
dent and  his  subordinate  officers  are  not  in  themselves  a  law.  They  are  reg- 
ulations made  under  and  in  pursuance  to  law  as  enacted  by  Congress.  This 
law  must  in  the  first  instance  be  in  ccmformity  to  the  Constitution  of  the 
United  States.  The  rules  and  regulations,  if  legal,  must  be  in  conformity 
with  the  law,  and  the  act  of  the  Indian  Agent  must  be  in  conformity  to  the 
the  rules  and  regulations,  and  as  the  Constitution  and  the  laws  do  not 
invest  the  President  and  subordinate  officers  with  the  right  to  determine 
what  are  "crime  or  misdemeanors"  or  to  prescribe  the  punishment  therefor, 
every  effort  to  so  do  is  wholly  futile  and  beyond  their  power  and  authority. 
To  a  human  being,  the  right  of  personal  safety  and  personal  inviolability, 
when  not  forfeited  by  the  commission  and  conviction  of  "crime  or  mis- 
demeanors," is  absolute.  It  is  fundamental  and  is  engrained  in  the  warp  and 
woof  and  very  fabric  of  the  Constitution  itself.  The  fact  of  being  a  ward 
of  the  Government  does  not  change  the  rule  as  it  does  when  a  person  is  con- 
victed of  crime.    To  hold  thus  would  be  to  practically  place  every  reserva- 


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A  MAN  AND  HIS  HAIR  373 

tion  Indian  on  the  level  and  standing  of  a  criminal  and  one  convicted  of 
crime.  Penal  servitude  alone  changes  the  rule,  and  under  no  other  possible 
conditions  can  a  person  be  incarcerated  and  punished  for  crime.  It  is  the 
courts  alone  of  the  United  States  that  have  jurisdiction  to  try  persons  for 
crimes  and  misdemeanors  against  the  laws  of  the  United  States.  These 
courts  have  the  exclusive  right  to  punish  for  crime  when  the  party  is  legally 
convicted  and  the  laws  of  the  United  States  fix  the  extent  and  nature  of  this 
punishment  when  conviction  is  had.  As  a  regulation  of  the  reservation  no 
punishment,  such  as  plaintiff  suffered,  is  allowed,  because  such  a  regulation 
must  not  be  "inconsistent  with  law."  It  is  not  the  law  to  cut  an  Indian's 
hair  any  more  than  it  is  to  cut  the  hair  of  any  other  human  being.  This 
right  accrues  only  after  conviction  for  crime,  and  the  prisoner  is  in  custody 
of  the  properly  constituted  authorities.  Then  it  is  unquestionably  the  right, 
as  a  prison  regulation,  to  shave  heads,  change  costumes  and  enforce  oUier 
personal  habits,  but  up  to  that  time,  while  the  prisoner  is  on  trial  or  before, 
in  fact  any  time  before  legal  conviction,  and  before  he  is  made  to  suffer 
the  penalty  for  his  offense,  he  cannot  be  subjected,  even  though  in  custody, 
to  the  privations  and  servitudes  of  a  convicted  criminal.  The  law  deprives 
the  prisoner  of  his  liberty  when  not  on  bail,  only  that  he  may  be  compelled 
to  appear  for  trial.  This  incarceration  is  not  a  punishment  any  more  than 
would  be  the  imposition  of  bail,  and  aside  from  these  two  restrictions  or 
conditions  the  prisoner  possesses  every  right  inalienable  to  the  unaccused  or 
unconvicted  citizen. 

From  a  review  of  the  authorities  it  is  apparent  that  the  rule  is  exactly 
the  antithesis  of  that  contended  for  by  the  defendant.  The  Constitution  of 
the  United  States,  in  determining  the  rights  of  persons,  throws  these  barriers 
between  the  citizen,  however  humble,  and  the  public  authority.  Article  V, 
amendment  Constitution  United  States :  "No  person  shall  be  deprived  of  life, 
liberty  or  property,  without  due  process  of  law.".  Article  VI,  Amendments 
Constitution  United  States:  "In  all  criminal  proceedings  the  accused  shall 
enjoy  the  right  to  a  speedy  and  public  trial  by  an  impartial  jury  *  ♦  *  to 
be  confronted  by  the  witnesses  against  him,  to  have  compulsory  process  for 
obtaining  witnesses  in  his  favor,  and  to  have  the  assistance  of  counsel  for 
his  defence."  Article  XIV,  Amendment  Constitution  United  States:  "All 
persons  bom  in  the  United  States  and  subject  to  the  jurisdiction  are  citizens, 
and  no  State  shall  deprive  any  person  of  life,  liberty  or  property  without  due 
process  of  law  nor  deny  to  any  person  the  equal  protection  of  the  law."  The 
President,  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  and  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Af- 
fairs in  the  first  instance  or  the  Indian  Agent  in  the  exercise  of  his  own  au- 
thority, have  no  right  to  violate  the  Constitution  or  the  laws,  be  it  statutory 
or  common  law,  by  prescribing  a  punishment  to  be  inflicted  on  the  Indians 
of  the  reservation.  Their  power  may  and  undoubtedly  does  extend  to  this 
point,  to  maintain  order,  to  require  attendance  of  pupils  at  the  schools  and 
to  formulate  and  enforce  such  rules  as  are  aimed  to  govern  the  reservation 
in  civil  affairs^  and  also  in  the  police  and  sanitary  matters  that  become 
expedient  and  mevitable  for  the  safety  and  the  lives  of  the  Indians,  but  it  is 
right  here  where  the  law  draws  the  line  of  demarcation  between  mere  regu- 
lations that  are  non-violative  of  personal  rights  and  personal  liberty  and 
the  illegal  assumption  of  power,  which  in  its  very  essence  and  purpose  de- 
prives the  Indian  of  every  right  vouchsafed  to  every  other  citizen  and  in- 
habitant of  the  land. 

To  epitomize  what  is  here  said  I  will  state  the  rule  as  follows:  That 
while  the  President,  Secretary  of  the  Interior  and  Commissioner  of  Indian 
Affairs  may  make  rules  for  the  ''management  of  all  Indian  affairs  and  all 
matters  arising  out  of  Indian  relations,"  that  these  rules  are  but  "mere 
educational  and  disciplinary  instrumentalities,"  and  they  thereby  cannot  as- 
sume the  power  to  determine  what  shall  be  crime  against  the  statutes  of  the 
United  States  nor  prescribe  a  punishment  therefor ;  and  when  an  Indian  who 
is  a  ward  of  the  Government  commits  a  crime  against  the  laws  of  the  United 
States,  he  must  be  tried  therefor  in  the  courts  of  the  United  States  and  not 
by  or  before  or  under  the  assumed  jurisdiction  of  an  Indian  Agent.  If  a 
person  commits  a  crime  against  the  Federal  law  he  can  be  tried  only  in  a 
constitutional  court  which  Congress  has  the  power  to  "ordain  and  establish." 
The  defendant's  attempt  to  punish  plaintiff  for  rescuing  a  prisoner  accused  of 
crime  was  without  authority  of  law,  and  all  proceedings  as  were  had  to  the 
attainment  of  that  end  were  futile  and  wholly  void. 


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374 


FOUITDKD  1895  OPFICBK8 

President,  Chas.  F.  Lnmmis. 
Vice-President,  Marffsret  Collier  Grabam. 
Secretary,  Arthur  B.  Benton,  1 14  N.  Spring-  St. 
Treannrer.  J.  G.  Mossin,  California  Bank. 
Corresponding  Secretary,  Mrs.  M.  E.  Stilson, 
812  Kensington  Road 


DOtXCTOKS 

J.  G.  Mossin. 
Henry  W.  O^Melreny. 
Snmner  P.  Hunt. 
Arthur  B.  Benton. 
Margaret  Collier  Graham. 
Chas.  P.  Lnmmis. 


Chairman  Membership  Committee,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Mossin,  1033  Santee  St. 

Aft  HE  picturesque  mission  at  Pala  (the  present  borne  of  the 
J^  Warner  Ranch  Indians)  was  extensively  repaired  by  the 
Landmarks  Club.  The  old  graveyard  adjacent  was  sur- 
rounded with  a  high  adobe  wall  which  is  now  largely  fallen  to 
decay.  Public-spirited  citizens  of  the  little  valley  have  sub- 
scribed to  restore  this  wall.  There  was  a  philistine  suggestion 
that  a  barbed  wire  fence  would  do,  but  in  the  valley  itself  there 
were  not  lacking  enough  people  with  the  artistic  sense  to  feel 
what  a  laughing  stock  this  would  be.  The  wall  is  to  be  re- 
placed in  adobe,  with  a  cement  cap  to  preserve  it  from  the 
weather.  The  following  subscriptions  for  this  work  have  been 
made: 


Rt.  Rev.  T.  J.  Conaty $50.00 

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Ami  V.  Golsh   25.00 

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Francisco   Moreno    5.00 

Francisco  Castillo   5.00 

Luis  Ardilla   5.00 

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Jose  M.  Cabrillas  5.00 

Ramon  Soberano  3.00 

Frank  Calac   i.oo 


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L.   Giddens    i.oo 

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The  Landmarks  Club  undertakes  to  make  up  the  balance 
remaining. 

Moneys  for  the  Work. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $8038.25. 

New  contributions  (see  also  above  list  of  subscriptions  for  wall  at  Pala)— 
$1.00  each  (annual  membership)— Hon.  Alfredo  Chavero,  Mexico;  Benham 
Trading  Co.,  J.  J.  Bodkin,  E.  H.  Winans,  Los  Angeles;  Mrs.  Jacob  Loew, 
Santa  Monica;  Dr.  J.  H.  McBride,  Pasadena;  Mrs.  Ida  M.  Walker,  San 
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iceawooas  oj  i^aitjomta. 

NATIONAL  BXBCUTIVB  COMMITTBB.  L08  ANGBLSS  COUNCIL. 

DftTld  Starr  Jordan,  Praddent  Stanford  University  PRSST..  Rt.  Rer.  J.  H.  Johnson 
G«o  Bird  GrinneU.  Ed   "Foreat  and  Stream,"  N.  Y.  BXBCtrriVB  COMMITTBS 

Cbas.  Caaiat  Davis.  Los  Anffdes  Wayland  H  hmith  (Sec.  of  the  Council) 

C  Hart  Menriam.  Chief  Blolo^cal  Surrey.  Washington  Miss  Con  Foy 

D.  M.  RIoidan.  Los  Angeles  Miss  Mary  B.  Warren 

Richard  Egan.  Caplstrano,  Cal.  Miss  Katberlne  Kurtz.  Secretary 

Cbas.  F.  Lummls,  Chairman  Chaa.  F.  LummU.  Chairman 

AovnoRT  Board. 

Mra.  PMbe  A.  Hearst.  Unlvesslty  of  CaiUbtaia.  Dr.  T.  MItcheU  Prudden.  Col.  Phya.  and  Swg'aa.  N.  Y. 

Archbishop  Ireland.  St.  Paul.  Minn.  •  Dr.  Geo.  J .  Eagelmaaa,  Boatoa. 

U.  S.  Senator  Thos.  R.  Bard.  California.  Miss  Alice  C.  Flcecher.  Washington. 

Edward  E.  Aver.  Newberry  Library.  Chicago.  F.  W.  Hodge,  Smithsonian  Institution.  Washington. 

Mies  Estelle  Reel  Supc.  ail  Indian  Schoob,  Washington.  Hamlin  GarlajBd.  author.  Chicago. 

W.J.  McGee.Dtt>eau  of  Ethnology.  Mra.  F.  N  Doubleday.  New  Yorlc. 

F.  W.  Putnam.  Pcabody  Museum.  Harvard  CoUege.  Dr.  Washington  Matthews.  Washugton. 

Stewart  Culln.  Brooklyn  last.  Hon.  A.  KTSmUey.  iMohonk).  Redlands.  Cal. 

Geo.  A.  Doraey,  Field  Columbian  Museum.  Chicago.  George  ICennaa.  Washington. 
Tieaaurar.  W.  C.  Pattataon.  Prea.  Loa  Angeles  Natl  Bk. 

LIFB  MBMBBKS. 

Amelia  B.  HoUenback.  JoaepMne  W.  Dranl.  Thos.  Scattergood.  Miss  Mira  Hershey.  Mrs.  D.  A.  Seotar.  Herbert  B. 
Huntington.  Miss  Antoinette  E.  Gazzam.  J.  M.  C.  Marble,  Joieph  Feb.  Mra.  Mary  Fels. 

YTNURING  the  month  just  past,  inspection  has  been  made  by 
jj@r  U.  S.  Senator  Flint,  and  representatives  of  the  Sequoya 
League,  of  the  Campo  reservations,  whose  distress  so 
aroused  this  community  last  winter  that  liberal  provision  by  pri- 
vate subscription  was  made  for  these  neglected  wards  of  the  gov- 
ernment 

If  those  who  have  contributed  to  this  cause  could  see  the  vis- 
ible physical  results  of  their  philanthropy,  they  would  need  no 
other  recompense..  These  Indians  who  were,  at  this  time  last 
year,  literally  starving,  are  now  full  of  new  heart  and  hope,  and 
physically  500  per  cent,  better.  "Old  Mike,"  whose  haggard  face 
was  pictured  in  these  pages  at  that  time,  is  so  rejuvenated  by 
having  had  something  to  eat  during  the  last  ten  months,  that  he 
was  mistaken  for  his  son;  and  a  somewhat  similar  change  has 
taken  place  with  most  of  his  people.  This  has  been  the  best  sea- 
son that  the  San  Diego  "back-country"  has  known  in  many  years ; 
the  liberal  provision  of  seed  grain  by  San  Diego,  in  conjunction 
with  this  meteorology,  gave  these  Indians,  this  summer,  the  best 
crop  they  have  ever  raised;  and  the  expenditure  of  a  large  sum 
in  rations,  clothing,  bedding,  and  protection  from  the  weather, 
has  done  the  rest.  The  Campo  Indians  are  today  so  much  better 
oflF  than  they  were  one  year  ago  that  it  is  hard  to  recognize 
them. 

But  this  is  only  a  temporary  alleviation.  Even  this  winter  they 
will  require  further  assistance  from  a  generous  public.    The  only 

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376  OUT    WEST 

permanent  and  sane  relief  will  be  when  the  government  supplies 
lands  on  which,  by  hard  work,  economy  and  self-denial,  they  can 
make  a  regular  livelihood. 

Senator  Flint  had  heard  and  read  much  of  the  conditions  there, 
but  was  unprepared  for  the  conditions  he  found  on  personal  in- 
spection. He  was  impressed  by  the  worthlessness  of  the  **reser- 
vations,''  by  the  industry  of  the  Indians  despite  their  handicap, 
and  by  the  obvious  fact  that  their  perennial  privation — a  matter 
of  record  in  the  government  reports  for  more  than  a  generation 
— is  due  not  to  their  iault  but  to  that  of  those  who  have  failed  to 
provide  them  with  adequate  lands.  He  has  given  intelligent  and 
careful  inspection  to  the  matter;  and  his  personal  knowledge  will, 
no  doubt,  have  a  serious  effect  in  securing  permanent  relief. 

Besides  the  Campo  reservations  he  has  also  inspected  Pala,  one 
of  the  best,  and  Ir'achanga,  one  of  the  worst,  reservations. 

The  influence  of  the  Sequoya  League  in  preserving  the  art  of 
basketry  among  these  Indians — an  art  which  commands  the  re- 
spect of  scholars  and  scientists  the  world  over — is  visible  in  many 
important  ways.  These  people  are  returning  to  the  old  weaves, 
and  abandoning  the  innovations  which  spoiled  the  value  of  their 
craft.  Not  only  that,  but  a  work  which  had  been  left  to  the  few 
old  women  is  now  being  taught  to  and  taken  up  by  the  young 
women  of  these  reservations.  The  League  has  purchased,  for 
spot  cash,  a  large  number  of  these  baskets,  and  has  engaged  to 
take  all  that  the  Campo  reservations  produce.  Thus  science,  art, 
and  the  material  needs  of  the  Indians  are  served  at  one  and  the 
same  time. 

The  Campo  Indians  will  need  again  this  winter  assistance 
from  the  generous  public  of  Southern  California,  though  their 
straits  are  not  so  extreme  as  last  year.  Their  crops  will  put  off 
the  hungry  days  by  two  or  three  months.  But  there  is  more 
reason  than  ever  to  insist  upon  a  permanent  remedy — namely 
the  purchase  by  the  government  of  a  tract  of  good  land  with 
water,  upon  which  these  farmers  can  make  a  livelihood.  If  these 
scattered  reservations,  now  high  up  in  desert  corners  of  the 
mountains,  could  be  congregated  upon  one  adequate  ranch,  the 
Indians  could  not  only  make  a  living  by  agriculture  but  they 
could  have  a  school  with  industrial  training,  medical  care,  and 
the  hygienic  instruction  which  the  three  matrons  are  now  pro- 
vided to  give  and  cannot  give  adequately  because  out  of  reach 
of  the  people  for  whom  they  work.  The  Sequoya  League  is  now 
urging  a  temporary  provision  of  a  few  tents  at  Campo,  so  that 
families  from  the  distant  reservations  can  camp  there  and  have 
their  children  in  the  school. 

Contributions  to  the  Work. 
Previously  acknowledged,  $1397.00. 

New  contributions — $2  each  (membership) — Mrs.  Louisa  C.  Bacon,  Matla- 
poisett,  Mass.;  Tracy  R.  Kelley,  Lowell  High  School,  San  Francisco. 

Indian  Relief  Fund. 


Previously  acknowledged,  $1318.00. 

New  contributions— Louisa  C  Bacon,  Mattapoisctt,  Mass.,  $8. 


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377 


public  activity  may  be  well  described  in  a  favorite  phrase  of  his  own — "to 
make  the  desert  blossom  with  the  homes  of  men."  His  Constructive  Democ- 
racy, just  published,  removes  any  suspicion  that  he  is  a  "man  of  one  idea," 
no  matter  how  large  the  idea  may  be,  and  reveals  him  as  a  factor  to  be 
seriously  reckoned  with  in  the  economic  thought  of  the  world-  More  than 
that,  it  would  not  be  surprising  if  this  book  and  its  author  were  to  be  of 
importance  in  shaping  the  course  of  national  legislation  and  action  in  the 
near  future.  For  Mr.  Smythe  belongs  neither  to  that  class  of  investigators 
which  is  satisfied  with  taking  up  economic  facts,  analyzing,  classifying  and 
explaining  them — and  then  laying  them  back  on  the  shelf  again;  nor  to  that 
which,  moved  to  wrath  by  the  faults  of  existing  systems,  would  straightway 
proceed  to  tear  them  up  root  and  branch  and  stand  the  world  generally  on 
its  head;  nor  yet  to  that  which  would  "treat  the  symptoms"  without  attempt- 
ing to  discover  and  remove  the  underlying  causes.  On  the  other  hand,  this 
book  gives  evidence  that,  to  a  far-sighted  vision  of  the  real  meaning  and 
ultimate  goal  of  present  tendencies,  he  adds  an  acute  perception  of  the  right 
step  to  take  next.  Join  to  these  two  qualities  executive  ability,  and  you 
have  practical  statesmanship. 

The  sub-title  of  Constructive  Democracy — "The  Economics  of  a  Square 
Deal" — at  once  arrests  attention ;  and  in  his  introductory  chapter  Mr.  Smythe 
makes  it  clear  that  his  purpose  is  not  to  conduct  an  academic  discussion, 
but  to  propose  and  discuss  practical  politics,  which,  adopted  and  pressed 
either  by  one  of  the  present  political  parties  or  by  a  new  one,  will,  when 
crystallized  into  law,  go  a  long  way  toward  solving  the  world-old  question 
which  George  Eliot  stated  as  "how  to  give  every  man  a  man's  share  in  what 
goes  on  in  life — not  a  pig's  share  nor  a  dog's  share,"  and  which  President 
Roosevelt  sums  up  as  "a  square  deal  for  every  man."  After  a  brief  study 
of  the  evolution  of  existing  conditions,  of  the  menace  to  the  Republic  from 
plutocracy,  and  of  the  revolutionary  remedy  proposed  by  Socialists — ^"The 
Unripe  Fruit  of  Socialism"  he  calls  one  of  his  chapters,  and  this  sufficiently 
indicates  his  position — he  proceeds  to  state  "the  points  of  greatest  pressure 
arising  from  the  present  economic  system"  as  follows: 

Monopolies   already  highly   developed  and  actually  or  potentially 
capable  of  robbing  producer  and  consumer. 

The  colossal  evil  of  political  corruption  which  is  the  outgrowth 
and  accompaniment  of  plutocracy. 
The  dangerous  tension  of  relations  between  capital  and  labor. 
The  large  and  growing  element  of  men  and  women  who  find  them- 
selves "surplus"  in  an  economic  sense  in  consequence  of  the  rapid 
transition  in  the  conditions  of  our  commercial  and  industrial  life. 
In  attacking  these  problems,  Mr.  Smythe  begins  with  the  overshadowing 
railroad  monopoly,  because  it  is  the  most  widely  extended,  as  well  as  the 


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378  OUT    WEST 

chief  support  of  the  rest  of  the  monopolies,  and  therefore  "oflFers  the  best 
field  for  the  study  of  plans  which,  beginning  with  scientific  regulation,  look 
frankly  to  government  ownership  as  the  condition  which  will  be  ultimately 
desirable."  He  early  makes  it  clear  that  he  does  not  regard  monopoly  as 
in  itself  a  thing  to  be  dreaded,  but  rather  as  the  desirable  and  inevitable 
result  of  industrial  progress.  The  problem,  then,  is  not  to  destroy  monopoly, 
but  to  tame  it  and  then  to  make  it  complete.  After  examining  and  rejecting 
various  other  propositions,  he  finds  in  the  plan  for  railway  control  submitted 
to  the  last  Congress  by  another  Western  statesman.  Senator  Newlands  of 
Nevada,  not  only  the  correct  way  to  regulate  our  railroads,  but  the  "germ 
of  a  scientific  solution  of  the  larger  problem  of  industrial  monopoly."  There 
is  no  space  here  to  follow  his  informing  discussion  of  the  Newlands  Plan 
of  railway  legislation,  but  I  may  quote  the  author's  condensed  application 
of  it  to  the  regulation  of  industrial  monopoly.    He  proposes: 

National  control   of  corporations  engaged   in   interstate  business; 
fixed  taxes,  preferably  on  gross  receipts;  fixed  dividends,  on  present 
valuation;   the  retention  by  society  of  the  increased   earnings   and 
values  to  arise  in  the  future,  such  increase  to  be  applied  to  better 
service,  higher  wages,  lower  prices — in  a  word,  to  the  elevation  of 
the  common  standard  of  living. 
The   objections   to   these   propositions   and   the   obstacles   in   the   way   of 
putting  them  into  effect  are  so  obvious  that  it  is  hardly  fair  to  the  author 
to  present  them  thus  baldly  without  outlining  the  arguments  by  which  they 
are  supported.    That  is  impossible  here,  however,  and  I  can  only  recommend 
to  every  thoughtful  reader  that  he  acquaint  himself  with  Mr.  Smythe's  full, 
candid   and  eloquent  consideration  of  the   subject  in  all  its  bearings.    He 
cheerfully  admits  that  the  adoption  of  such  a  plan  would  set  speculators, 
promoters,  reorganizers  and  their  kind  to  "hunting  another  job;"  but  he 
maintains  with  much  force  and  ingenuity  that  it  will  come  nearer  to  the 
ideal  of  a  square  deal  for  every  man  than  any  other  plan  now  feasible. 

There  remains  the  problem  of  the  "surplus  man" — ^that  necessary  bye- 
product  of  social  and  industrial  progress — the  man  in  every  profession  and 
occupation  who,  caught  between  the  forces  of  combination  and  concentration 
on  the  one  hand  and  the  pressure  of  competition  from  others  bred  to  a  lower 
scale  of  living,  on  the  other,  finds  himself  unable  to  satisfy  his  reasonable 
wants,  according  to  his  accustomed  standard  of  living.  To  this  subject  Mr. 
Smythe  addresses  nearly  half  his  book — and  a  most  satisfying  and  illumi- 
native book  it  would  make  by  itself.  After  a  brilliant  exposition  of  the 
"who,"  the  "how"  and  the  "why"  of  the  surplus  man,  Mr.  Smythe  proceeds 
to  point  out  the  remedies — the  surplus  place  which  exists  for  every  surplus 
man  and  the  proper  methods  of  bringing  surplus  man  and  surplus  place 
together  and  fitting  them  one  to  the  other.  "Fascinating**  may  seem  a  strange 
word  to  apply  to  an  economic  treatise,  but  to  my  mind  it  precisely  describes 
this  part  of  the  book — which  is  besides  overwhelmingly  convincing. 

On  the  whole  I  regard  Constructive  Democracy  as  the  most  important  eco- 
nomic study  since  Progress  and  Poverty — and  much  more  likely  to  bear  the 
fruit  of  early  accomplishment  than  was  Henry  George's  work.  The  Macmil- 
lan  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50  net, 

WHAT  While  Mr.   Smythe  is  not  without  analytic  and  critical  ability, 

"business"  synthetic  and  constructive  thought  interests  him  much  more,  and 

KBALLY  IS      in  that  line  lies  his  greater  usefulness.    He  prefers  to  be  architect 

and  builder  rather  than  investigator  and  recorder.    To  search  out  new  and 

broader  channels  along  which  the  tide  of  human  progress  shall  flow,  seems 

to  him  far  better  worth  doing  than  to  retrace  and  map  out  those  through 


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THAT  WHICH  IS  WRITTEN  379 

which  they  have  come.  If  one  is  an  epicure  in  contrasting  methods  and 
purposes,  he  can  do  no  better  than  to  turn  from  the  book  just  considered 
to  The  Theory  of  Business  Enterprise,  by  Thorstein  Veblen,  Assistant  Pro- 
fessor of  Political  Economy  in  the  University  of  Chicago.  This  is  the  most 
complete  and  penetrating  investigation  into  the  principles  which  underlie 
and  control  modem  business  which  has  yet  appeared — and  it  is  purely  scien- 
tific. It  deals  with  the  existing  status,  explaining  it,  accounting  for  it  and 
pointing  out  both  the  forces  now  at  play  in  it  and  those  which  tend  to 
subvert  it.  Moral  values,  emotional  preferences,  any  yearning  for  the  uplift 
of  humanity,  even  any  strife  toward  justice  between  man  and  man — ^these 
are  wholly  outside  the  avowed  content  of  this  book.  Quite  properly  so, 
for  this  is  pure  science;  and  just  as  (to  quote  Prof.  Veblen)  "profits  is  a 
business  proposition,  livelihood  is  not,"  so  knowledge  is  a  scientific  proposi- 
tion, morality  and  justice  are  not.  I  do  not  intend  this  as  a  slighting  com- 
ment on  either  the  book  or  its  author.  The  dissecting  table  is  not  the  place 
for  the  display  of  emotion  or  sympathy,  and  it  is  with  the  anatomy  of 
business  that  Prof.  Veblen  is  largely  concerning  himself.  Moreover,  it 
seems  clear  enough  that  the  apparent  air  of  cynical  indifference  to  questions 
of  right  and  wrong  is  no  more  than  a  platform  attitude,  and  that  beneath 
the  lecturer's  academic  gown  the  man's  heart  is  filled  with  biting  contempt 
for  much  of  that  which  he  is  describing.  This,  I  think,  will  appear  in  the 
quotations  presently  to  be  made. 

"Business,"  in  Prof.  Veblen's  vocabulary,  is  carefully  differentiated  from 
commerce,  industrial  activity  or  even  banking,  but  rather  describes  the 
financial  strategy  connected  with  these  processes.  The  merchant  deals  in 
the  products  of  industry  as  they  pass  from  producer  to  consumer;  the  "busi- 
ness man"  in  the  processes  of  industry.  The  purpose  of  shrewd  business 
men,  having  control  of  an  industrial  enterprise,  is 

to  manage  the  affairs  of  the  concern  with  a  view  to  the  advantageous 
purchase  and  sale  of  its  capital  rather  than  with  a  view  to  the  future 
prosperity  of  the  concern,  or  to  the  continued  advantageous  sale  of 
the  output  of  goods  or  services  produced  by  the  industrial  use  of  this 
capital. 

That  is  to  say,  the  interest  of  the  managers  of  the  modem  cor- 
poration need  not  coincide  with  the  permanent  interest  of  the  cor- 
poration as  a  going  concern ;  neither  does  it  coincide  with  the  interest 
which  the  community  at  large  has  in  the  efficient  management  of  the 
concem  as  an  industrial  enterprise.  It  is  to  the  interest  of  the 
community  at  large  that  the  enterprise  should  be  so  managed  as  to 
give  the  best  and  largest  possible  output  of  goods  or  services;  whereas 
the  interest  of  the  corporation  as  a  going  concern  is  that  it  be  man- 
aged with  a  view  to  maintaining  its  efficiency  and  selling  as  large 
an  output  as  may  be,  at  the  best  prices  obtainable  in  the  long  run; 
but  the  interest  of  the  managers,  and  of  the  owners  for  the  time 
being,  is  to  so  manage  the  enterprise  as  to  enable  them  to  buy  it  up 
or  to  sell  out  as  expeditiously  and  as  advantageously  as  may  be. 
Prof.  Veblen  does  not  agree  with  the  common  opinion  that  this  kind  of 

business  involves  material  speculative  risk  to  the  manipulators. 

Indeed,  so  secure  and  lucrative  is  this  class  of  business  that  it  is 
chiefly  out  of  gains  accruing,  directly  and  indirectly,  from  such  traffic 
in  vendible  capital  that  the  great  modem  fortunes  are  being  accumu- 
lated; and  both  the  rate  and  the  magnitude  of  these  accumulations, 
whether  taken  absolutely  or  relatively  to  the  total  increase  of  wealth, 
surpass  all  recorded  phenomena  of  their  kind.  Nothing  so  effective 
for  the  accumulation  of  private  wealth  is  known  to  the  history  of 
human  culture. 
One  of  the  most  caustic  and  striking  chapters  is  that  on  'The  Theory  of 

Modem  Welfare."    Here  are  the  opening  sentences: 

Before  business  principles  came  to  dominate  everyday  life  the  corn- 


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380  OUT    WEST 

mon  welfar^  when  it  was  not  a  question  of  peace  and  war,  turned  on 
the  ease  and  certainty  with  which  enough  of  the  means  of  life  could 
be  supplied.    Since  business  has  become  the  central  and  controlling 
interest,  the  question  of  welfare  has  become  a  question  of  price. 
Under  the  old  r^me  of  handicraft  and  petty  trade,  dearth   (high 
prices)  meant  privation  and  might  mean  famine  and  pestilence ;  under 
the  new  regime  low  prices  commonly  mean  privation  and  may  on 
occasion   mean   famine.    Under  the   old   r^me   the   question   was 
whether  the  community's  work  was  adequate  to  supply  the  com- 
munity's needs;  under  the  new  r^ime  that  question  is  not  seriously 
entertained.    But  the  common  welfare  is   in  no  less  precarious  a 
case.    The  productive  efficiency  of  modern  industry  has  not  done 
away  with  the  recurrence  of  hard  times,  or  of  privation  for  those 
classes  whose  assured  pecuniary  position  does  not  place  them  above 
the  chances  of  hard  times. 
The  "full  dinner  pail,''  in  the  author's  view,  b  generally  an  illusion  and 
always  a  merely  transient  condition  under  the  rule  of  modem  business. 
An  era  of  prosperity  does  not  commonly  bring  an  increase  of  wages 
until  the  era  is  about  to  close.    The  advance  of  wages  in  sudi  a  case 
is  not  only  a  symptom  indicating  that  the  season  of  prosperity  is 
passing,  but  it  is  a  factor  which  must  by  its  own  proper  effect  close 
the  season  of  prosperity  as  soon  as  the  advance  m  wages  becomes 
somewhat  general.    Increasing  wages  cut  away  the  securest  grround 
of  that  differential  price  advantage  on  which  an  era  of  prosperity  runs. 
After  examining  at  length  the  conditions  leading  to  business  depression — 
which  he  defines  as  "primarily  a  malady  of  the  affections  of  business  men" — 
Prof.  Veblen  comes  to  a  conclusion  which  might  well  enough  have  served 
for  one  of  the  foundation  stones  of  Mr.  Smythe's  argument 

Barring  providential  intervention,  then,  the  only  refuge  from  chronic 
depression,  according  to  the  view  here  set  forth,  is  thorough-going 
coalitiotf  in  those  lines  of  business  in  which  coalition  is  practicable. 
But  since  this  would  include  the  greater  part  of  those  Imes  of  in- 
dustry which  are  dominated  by  the  machine  process,  it  seems  reason- 
able to  expect  that  the  remedy  should  be  efficacious.    The  higher 
development   of  the   machine   process   makes   competitive   business 
impracticable,  but  it  carries  a  remedy  for  its  own  evils  in  that  it 
makes  coalition  practicable.    ♦    ♦    ♦    These  great  coalitions,  there- 
fore, seem  to  carry  the  seed  of  this  malady  of  competition,  and  this 
evil  consequence  can  accordingly  be  avoided  only  on  the  basis  of 
so  comprehensive  and  rigorous  a  coalition  of  business  concerns  as 
shall  wholly  exclude  competition,  even  in  the  face  of  any  conceivable 
amount  of  new  capital  seeking  investment. 
Perhaps  the  best  specimen  of  the  grim  sardonic  humor  which  lurks  behind 
these  stately  periods  is  found  in  Prof.  Veblen's  rebuke  to  the  charges  of 
corruption  or  bias  in  the  higher  courts,  arising  from  "the  untrained  sym- 
pathies of  the  vulgar." 

It  should^  in  fact,  be  nearly  a  matter  of  indifference  to  the  "popular" 
side  of  this  class  of  litigation  [between  employers  and  workmen] 
whether  the  courts  are  corrupt  or  not    The  question  has  little  else 
than  a  speculative  interest.    In  the  nature  of  the  case  the  owner  alone 
has,  ordinarily,  any  standing  in  court.    All  of  which  argues  that  there 
are  probably  very  few  courts  that  are  in  any  degree  corrupt  or  biased, 
so  far  as  touches  litigation  of  this  class.    Efforts  to  corrupt  them 
would  be  a  work  of  supererogation,  besides  being  immoral. 
"Constitutional  government,"  our  author  declares,  "has,  in  the  main,  be- 
come a  department  of  the  business  organization  and  is  guided  by  the  advice 
of  business  men."    It  has  "much  else  to  do  besides  administering  the  general 
affairs  of  the  business  community;  but  in  most  of  its  work,  even  in  what 
is  not  ostensibly  directed  to  business  ends,  it  is  under  the  surveillance  of  the 
business   interests."    This,   of  course,   includes   international   relations,   and 
here  "the  maintenance  of  business  interests  requires  the  backing  of  arms." 


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THAT  WHICH  IS  WRITTEN  381 

Armaments  serve  trade  not  only  in  the  making  of  general  terms 
of  purchase  and  sale  between  the  business  men  of  civilized  countries, 
but  th^  are  similarly  useful  in  extending  and  maintaining  business 
enterprise  and  privileges  in  the  outlying  regions  of  the  earth.  The 
advanced  nations  of  Christendom  are  proselyters,  and  there  are 
certain  valuable  perquisites  that  come  to  the  business  men  of  those 
proselyting  nations  who  advance  the  frontiers  of  the  pecuniary  cul- 
ture among  the  backward  populations.  There  is  commonly  a  hand- 
some margin  of  profit  in  domg  business  with  these  pecuniarily  un- 
regenerate  populations,  particularly  when  the  traffic  is  adequately 
backed  with  f6rce.  But,  also  commonly,  these  peoples  do  not  enter 
willingly  into  lasting  business  relations  with  civilized  mankind.  It 
is  therefore  necessary,  for  the  purposes  of  trade  and  culture,  that  they 
be  firmly  held  up  to  such  civilized  rules  of  conduct  as  will  make 
trade  easy  and  lucrative.  To  this  end  armament  is  indispensable. 
*  *  *  Barring  accidents  and  untoward  cultural  agencies  from  outside 
of  politics,  business  or  religion,  there  is  nothing  in  the  logic  of  the 
modem  situation  that  should  stop  the  cumulative  war  expenditures 
short  of  industrial  collapse  and  consequent  national  bankruptcy,  such 
as  terminated  the  carnival  of  war  and  politics  that  ran  its  course 
on  the  Continent  in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries. 
With  this,  my  nibblings  at  this  book  must  end,  though  its  consideration 
of  the  influence  of  business  enterprise  on  our  literary  output  tempts  me 
sorely.  But  I  hope  to  have  made  it  clear  that  the  book  will  repay  reading, 
re-reading  and  then  reading  once  more.  Charles  Scribner's  Sons,  New  York. 
$1.50  net 

Another  recent  economic  study  of  some  importance  is   Robert      some 
Hunter*s  Poverty,  and  with  this  I  must  perforce  deal  more  briefly  results  of 

than  it  deserves.    Adapting  a  passage  from  Carlyle,  Mr.   Hunter  ''business" 

describes  poverty  as  follows:  "To  live  miserable  we  know  not  why,  to  have 
the  dread  of  hunger,  to  work  sore  and  yet  gain  nothing— this  is  the  essence 
of  poverty."  He  includes  among  those  who  are  in  poverty,  not  only  paupers, 
but  those  who  "may  be  able  to  get  a  bare  sustenancce,  but  [they]  are  not 
able  to  obtain  those  necessaries  which  will  permit  them  to  maintain  a  state 
of  physical  efficiency.  They  are  the  large  class  in  any  industrial  nation  who 
are  on  the  verge  of  distress."  His  investigations  of  the  question  from  every 
available  point  of  view  convince  him  that  not  less  than  ten  million  persons 
iu  the  United  States  are  in  poverty,  and  he  regards  this  as  unquestionably 
a  conservative  estimate.  I  am  obliged  to  pass  entirely  over  his  earnest  and 
instructive  discussion  and  quote  only  his  conclusions  as  to  reforms  which 
would  tend  to  prevent  poverty. 

They  contemplate  mainly  such  Iqg^islative  action  as  may  enforce 
upon  the  entire  country  certain  minimum  standards  of  working  and 
of  living  conditions.  They  would  make  all  tenements  and  factories 
sanitary ;  they  would  regulate  the  hours  of  work,  especially  for  women 
and  children;  they  would  regulate  and  thoroughly  supervise  dan- 
gerous trades;  they  would  institute  all  necessary  measures  to  stamp 
out  unnecessary  disease  and  to  prevent  unnecessary  death ;  they  would 
prohibit  entirely  child  labor;  they  would  institute  all  necessary  edu- 
cational and  recreational  institutions  to  replace  the  social  and  educa- 
tional losses  of  the  home  and  the  domestic  workshop;  they  would 
perfect,  as  far  as  possible,  le^slation  and  institutions  to  make  industry 
pay  the  necessary  and  legitimate  cost  of  producing  and  maintaining 
efficient  laborers;  they  would  institute,  on  the  lines  of  foreign  experi- 
ence, measures  to  compensate  labor  for  enforced  seasons  of  idle- 
ness, due  to  sickness,  old  age,  lack  of  work,  or  other  causes  beyond 
the  control  of  the  workman;  they  would  prevent  parasitism  on  the 
part  of  either  the  consumer  or  the  producer  and  charge  up  the  full 
costs  of  labor  in  production  to  the  beneficiary,  instead  of  compelling 
the  worker  at  certain  times  to  enforce  his  demand  for  maintenance 


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through  the  tax  rate  and  by  becoming  a  pauper;  they  would  restrict 
the  power  of  employer  and  of  ship-owner  to  stimulate  for  purely 
selfish  ends  an  excessive  immigration,  and  in  this  way  to  beat  down 
wages  and  to  increase;  unemployment. 
All  of  which  seems  a  tolerably   large  order;  yet  it  is   an  order   which 

Christian  civilization  will  one  day  have  to  fill  or  confess  its  failure.    The 

Macmillan  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50  neU 

THE  Henry  Van  Dyke's  The  School  of  Life  is  quotable  at  every  page. 

SIMPLE  But  perhaps  the  words  concerning  the  Simple  life  with  which  the 

LIFE      essay  closes  will  give  the  best  measure  of  the  little* book. 

A  certain  opeimess  of  mind  to  learn  the  daily  lessons  of  the  school 
of  life;  a  certain  willingness  of  heart  to  give  and  to  receive  that 
extra  service,  that  gift  beyond  the  strict  measure  of  debt  which 
makes  friendship  possible;  a  certain  clearness  of  spirit  to  perceive 
the  best  in  things  and  people,  to  love  it  without  fear  and  to  cleave 
to  it  without  mistrust;  a  peaceful  sureness  of  affection  and  taste; 
a  gentle  straightforwardness  of  action;  a  kind  sincerity  of  speech — 
these  are  the  marks  of  the  simple  life,  which  cometh  not  with  ob- 
servation, for  it  is  within  you. 
Charles  Scribner's  Sons,  New  York.    50  cents  net. 

Kindly  Light,  described  in  a  sub-title  as  "A  Little  Book  of  Yearning,"  is 
a  series  of  meditations,  in  prose  and  verse,  which  "began  in  a  soul's  effort 
to  commune  with  the  Soul  of  the  soul,  to  speak  in  secret  with  the  Father 
of  Lights  about  the  problems  of  being,  the  sorrows  and  joys,  the  sins  and 
^nctities,  the  emptiness  and  fullness,  the  shames  and  glories,  the  deaths 
and  lives  of  the  human  experience."  They  have  proved  themselves  helpful 
to  some,  and  the  author,  John  Milton  Scott,  very  properly  concludes  that 
''there  may  be  others  whose  thoughts  of  things  might  brighten  by  a  sharing 
of  this  heart"    Upland  Farms  Alliance,  Oscawana-on-Hudson,  N.  Y. 

In  Sidney  McCall's  The  Breath  of  the  Gods,  the  curtain  rises  in  Wash- 
ington, but  the  scene  is  soon  changed  to  Japan.  The  central  figures  are  a 
young  Japanese  girl,  educated  in  the  United  States,  and  a  great  Prince, 
the  "Living  War  God  of  Japan,"  who  seeks  her  in  marriage.  She  marries 
him,  though  loving  an  attache  of  the  French  legation.  Though  pure  both  in 
heart  and  body,  circumstances  compel  her  husband  to  believe  diat  she  has 
been  false  not  only  to  him  but  to  Nippon.  It  is  an  interesting  tale,  but 
overwrought  and  "stagey."    Little,  Brown  &  Co.,  Boston.    $i.5a 

Partners  of  the  Tide,  by  Joseph  C.  Lincoln,  is  largely  concerned  with  the 
experiences  of  a  young  sailor  and  an  older  one  in  the  "wreckin'  business." 
Their  home  is  down  Cape  Cod  way,  and  between  a  good  plot  and  interesting 
characters  the  author  has  made  a  readable  tale.  A.  C.  Barnes  &  Co.,  New 
York.    $1.50. 

Nut-Brown  Joan,  by  Marion  A.  Taggart,  is  an  entertaining  story  for  girls. 
The  young  heroine  is  the  clever  "ugly  duckling"  of  the  family,  but  she 
has  plenty  of  good  times  and  turns  out  to  be  a  beauty  after  all  Henry 
Holt  &  Co.,  New  York.    Fowler  &  Co.,  Los  Angeles.    $1.50. 

William  Dana  Orcutt  saw  romantic  possibilities  in  the  wooing  of  Eugenie 
de  Montijo  by  Prince  Louis  Napoleon  and  has  built  about  it  his  story. 
The  Flower  of  Destiny.  The  book  is  attractively  illustrated  and  decorated. 
A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chicago.    $1.25. 

A  Maid  of  Japan,  by  Mrs.  Hugh  Fraser,  is  the  love-story  of  a  poor  fisher- 
girl  and  a  wealthy  young  Britisher.  They  turn  out  to  be  cousins  and  the 
story  ends  happily.  It  is  delicately  and  sweetly  told.  Henry  Holt  &  Co.. 
New  York.    $1.25. 

The  big  girl  who  has  been  experimenting  with  the  recipes  in  A  Little 
Cook-Book  for  a  Little  Girl  says  that  it's  a  useful  and  practical  little  book. 
The  results  of  her  experimenting  certainly  taste  like  it.  Dana  Estes  &  Co., 
Boston.    75  cents. 

A  useful  little  handbook  on  Street  Trees  in  California,  prepared  by  Prof. 
Jepson,  of  the  University  of  California,  may  be  had  from  the  California  Pro- 
motion Conmiittee,  San  Francisco. 

Chakles  Amadon  Moody. 


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THB  HOMB  OP  THE  WATBR  OUZBL 


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385 

SAN  JOSE  AND   THE  SANTA 
CLARA   VALLEY 

POET,  less  than  a  month  away  from  a  land  where 
the  pine  forests  were  standing  deep  in  snow, 
looked  out  across  the  miles  of  blossoming 
orchards  in  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  and  said: 
'This  is  the  composite  of  all  my  dreams.  I  am 
not  hunting  lotos  islands  any  longer— I  have 
found  something  better." 

And  he  had!     This  valley  is  "California,"  as 
it    exists    in   the   dreams    of    people    to    whom 
the  word  means  a  hundred  different  things — cli- 
mate and  scenery  and  out-door  life;  fruit  and 
flowers  and  health ;  a  place  to  rest  in,  a  place 
to  work  in;  a  place  in  which  to  enjoy  the  fruit  of  one's  years  of  accumulation, 
and  a  place  in  which  to  gather  the  surety  of  comfort  for  old  age;  a  land 
good  to  live  in  and  to  call  home. 

Sixty  miles  from  end  to  end,  lying  north  and  south,  and  never  more  than 
twenty  miles  wide,  the  beautiful  valley  is  a  sheltered  basin  between  two 
mountain  ranges,  Mt.  Hamilton  and  Santa  Cruz,  shut  by  the  one  from  the 
sea  and  fog,  and  by  the  other  from  the  inland  winds  and  heat. 

It  is  the  best-watered  valley  of  like  size  in  the  State;  crossed  by  small 
streams,  with  canons  in  which  springs,  "plain"  and  medicinal,  have  rise;  and 
underlaid  by  an  unfailing  artesian  basin,  tapped  by  wells  of  steady  volume 

Nearly  all  the  photoffraptas  from  which  the  article  oa  San  Jos6  is  illustrated  are  from  the 
studio  of  Andrew  P.  Hill,  of  that  city. 


3T.  JAMSSIpAKK,  SAM  JOSt 

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and  increasing  number.  The  output  of  its  orchards — six  million  trees, 
bearing  the  past  year  half  a  billion  pounds  of  prunes,  peaches,  apricots  and 
other  fruits — does  not  hang  upon  the  chance  of  a  **wet  winter,"  or  upon  the 
carefully-distributed  flow  of  some  distant  stream.  Under  the  very  land  in 
which  they  are  rooted  lies  the  water  to  keep  the  trees  growing  and  mature 
their  load  of  fruit. 

Consequently  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  offers  alike  to  the  large  farmer  and 
fruit  grower  and  to  the  home-seeker  who  desires  a  few  well-selected  acres 
special  inducements  not  to  be  duplicated  elsewhere. 

Beyond  these — water,  rich  soil,  beauty  of  location — the  wonderful  climate 
would  yet  have  made  the  valley  a  land  of  homes.  It  is  every  day  in  the 
year  what  the  average  stranger  means  when  he  thinks  of  California;  never 
hot,  never  cold,  seldom  windy  or  foggy;  with  something  like  three  hundred 


A  SAN   JOS^    HOMB 

sunny  days  in  the  year,  and  yet  an  average  annual  rainfall  of  fifteen  inches — 
enough  to  discourage  dust  and  keep  vegetation  fresh  and  thrifty. 

Fifty  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  the  fourth  largest  city  in  the  State 
and  the  largest  in  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  the  city  of  San  Jose  has  grown  up 
on  the  site  selected  in  November,  1877,  hy  the  nine  soldiers  and  five  settlers 
sent  out  by  the  Spanish  Governor  of  California  to  establish  a  pueblo  "on  the 
margin  of  the  river  Guadalupe."  This  modest  beginning  was  known  as  the 
Pueblo  de  San  Jose  de  Guadalupe;  since  1850  the  incorporated  city  of  San 
Jose.  In  1904  it  was  a  city  twenty  square  miles  in  extent  and  with  37,500 
inhabitants;  a  city  of  broad,  beautiful  avenues,  tree-shaded  and  set  with 
semi-tropic  shrubs  and  flowers  in  profusion.  "The  rose  garden  of  the  earth" 
it  has  been  called;  the  "Garden  City,"  the  "Park  City,"  and  more  recently 
"the  City  of  Schools," 


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SOME  SAN  JOS^  HOMES  AND  THBIR   SURROUNDINOS 


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HOTEL  VBMDOME 


The  schools  of  San  Jos^  may  well  be  mentioned  before  even  its  beautiful 
homes,  its  many  churches,  and  its  fine  business  buildings.  The  public  school 
buildings  of  the  city  are  valued  at  half  a  million  dollars,  and  include  the 
first  and  largest  Normal  School  in  the  State.  Here,  too,  the  first  Catholic 
and  the  first  Protestant  college  in  the  State  were  established  more  than 
fifty  years  ago,  and  through  succeeding  years  San  Jose  came  easily  and 
naturally  to  be  the  educational  center  of  California  and  the  Southwest.  In 
San  Jose  the  United  States  Government  has  placed  the  finest  postoffice  build- 
ing which  it  owns,  and  the  business  blocks  of  the  city,  built  of  brick  and 
stone,  are  in  keeping — the  handsomest  and  most  impressive  business  buildings 
to  be  found  in  any  of  the  smaller  cities  of  the  West. 

The  hotels  are  such  as  befit  a  city  which  is  fast  becoming  the  first  resort 
and  pleasure  ground  of  the  State;  a  summer  home  for  thousands  of  San 
Franciscans  and  other  Californians,  and  the  winter  Mecca  of  tourists  and 
pleasure  seekers  from  the  East,  who  come  yearly  in  increasing  numbers  and 


THB  NBW  PUBLIC    LIBRARY,  SAN   JOS6 

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SAN  JOSB  389 


Stay  longer  and  longer  in  the  wonderful  climate  and  beautiful  scenes  which 
the  city  and  surrounding  county  has  to  offer. 

The  pride  of  the  city,  a  pleasure  ground  unique,  with  beauty  and  character 
peculiarly  its  own.  Alum  Rock  Canon  lies  seven  miles  east  of  San  Jose 
in  the  Coast  Mountains.  An  electric  railway  connects  this  playground  of  a 
thousand  acres  with  the  city;  and  it  is  only  a  short  ride  from  the  city  streets 
to  the  canon  with  its  wild  beauty  supplemented  but  unspoiled. 

A  living  stream  flows  through  the  cafion  and  there  are  sixteen  mineral 
springs  in  the  park.  In  one  place  a  stream  of  hot  water  flows  out  of  the 
living  rock  only  a  few  feet  away  from  a  large  cold  spring.  Here  the  forest 
trees  mingle  with  rare  tropic  shrubs  and  flowers,  and  near  the  spring  the 
city  has  fine  plunge  and  tub-baths,  restaurant  and  other  attractions  for 
comfort  and  pleasure.  Among  them  may  be  named  a  deer  paddock,  and  an 
aviary,  and  numberless  beautiful  walks  and  drives. 

Within  the  city   is  the  Vendonie   Park,   in  which   is   the  Vendome   Hotel 


COURT   HOUSE  AND   HALL  OF   RECORDS 


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390  OUT    WBSf 


COLLEOB  OF  NOTRB  DAMB,  SAN  JOS^ 

and  one  of  the  finest  bathing  pavilions  on  the  coast;  St.  James  Park,  over- 
looked by   the   St.  James   Hotel;  the   City   Hall   Park,  and  other  beautiful 
-i«j;.  pftfks  surrounding  the  Normal  and  High  schools  and  other  buildings.    The 
residence  areas  of  the  city  are  themselves  like  one  great  and  well-kept  park, 
rich   with   rare  shrubs,   flowers   and  trees   in  endless  variety.     One   hundred 
•  and  sixty-five  varieties  of  roses  are  said  to  be  growing  within  the  city  limits. 
Agricultural   Park  is  a   spot  of  special   interest— the  gathering  place   for 
horsemen  and  horse  lovers,  resident  and  visiting;   for  here  are  the  stables 
where  many  famous  racers  are  kept  through  the  winter,  and  where  they  may 
be  seen  exercising  along  the  fine  stretches  of  roadway.     Here,  too,  for  the 
delight  of  small  boys,  a  circus  has  its  winter  home. 


SAN  JOS^  HIGH  SCHOOL 


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SAN  JOSE  391 


HOW   ROSES  GROW  IN  S%N   JOS£ 

Among  the  claims  made  for  San  Jose  by  its  admiicfs  is,  that  of  all  the  Pa- 
cific Coast  cities,  it  is  the  one  adapted  to  manufacture.  It  has  cheap  power,  the 
same  terminal  rates  possessed  by  San  Francisco,  a  climate  in  which  a  man 
may  do  his  best  work  the  year  round;  and  can  offer  to  workmen  beautiful 
homes  at  reasonable  rent  and  living  expenses,  and,  to  any  man  who  wishes, 
the  chance  to  earn  and  own  his  home. 

The  city's  industries  include  a  large  woolen  mill  in  which  are  made  the 


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392  OUT    WEST 


CONSERVATORY  OF  MUSIC,  UNIVERSITY  OF  THB  PACIFIC 


WASHBURN   SCHOOL,  SAN   }OSt 

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OL1MP8B8  OF  ALUM  ROCK  PAKK 


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394  OUT    WBSt 

finest  blankets  sold  in  eastern  cities,  and  woolens  that  have  been  for  twenty- 
five  years  famous  in  California  and  elsewhere.  Miners  in  Alaska  wear  "San 
Jose  shirts,"  as  they  wore  them  in  the  "diggings"  of  the  home  State  a  quarter 
of  a  century  ago. 

Horticultural  machinery  from  San  Jose  goes  out  to  Australia  and  to 
South  Africa,  and  much  agricultural  machinery,  as  well  as  carriages  and 
wagons,  finds  local  and  general  market.  Beside  these  the  city  has  a  tannery; 
planing  mills  where  doors,  windows,  sashes,  trays  and  boxes  are  turned 
out  by  the  thousand;  two  of  the  largest  brick  plants  in  the  State;  the  largest 
fruit-cannery  in  the  world;  and  twenty  packing  houses  where  the  dried 
fruits  of  the  valley  are  prepared  for  distribution  throughout  the  markets  of 
the  world. 


GARDEN  CITY  BANK  AND  TRUST  CO.  BUILDING.  SAN  JOSI^- 

Manufacturing  is  still  in  its  infancy  in  California,  but  each  year  sees  more 
and  more  keen  judgment  turning  from  climates  in  which  a  man  is  hampered 
half  the  year  by  heat  and  the  other  half  by  cold— and  factories  should  be 
built  as  much  with  reference  to  the  weather  which  the  workmen  will  have 
to  endure  as  to  the  work  to  be  done  in  them— to  a  land  where  every  day  is 
a  working  day  so  far  as  comfort  goes,  and  continuous  production  is  possible. 
This  point  is  touched  upon  at  some  length  in  preceding  pages  of  this  magazine. 

Already  men  are  leaving  great  factories  in  the  East  to  build  others  of 
broader  scope  in  California,  and  in  the  future  San  Jose  is  certain  to  attract 
distinct  attention  in  this  line. 


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SAN  JOSB  395 


IN  THE  SAN  JOS£  OSTRICH  FARM 

Socially  San  Jose  is  what  such  a  city  must  be — the  meeting  place  of  the 

best  from  all  States  and  sections.    In  this  it  has  a  charm  and  atmosphere 

peculiarly  its   own,   flavored   by   the   nearness   of   the   greatest  university   in 
the  West. 


OARDBN  CITT  SANITARIUM,  SAN  JOS^ 

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LICK  OBSERVATORY,  ON   THE  SUMMIT  OF   MT.  HAMILTON 

For  the  culture  of  the  people  of  San  Jose,  its  beautiful  homes,  its  many 
churches,  its  many  and  excellent  schools  of  all  grades  may  well  speak.  A 
Carnegie  library  has  been  opened  recently,  a  dignified  and  harmonious  build- 
ing, housing  a  fine  collection  of  books.  The  Normal  and  High  schools 
have  also  excellent  libraries  which  are  open  to  the  public,  with  certain  restric- 
tions. 

The  Sainte  Claire  Club,  an  organization  of  business  and  professional  men, 
owns  the  most  beautiful  club  house  in  the  State,  a  fine  type  of  Mission 
architecture. 

The  Linda  Vista  Golf  Club  and  the  Athletic  Club  oflFer  attractions  to 
lovers  of  sport,  and  the  former  owns  large  links  and  a  pleasant  club  house 
open  to  members  and  their  friends. 

One  of  the  interesting  trips  which  can  be  made  from  San  Jose  is  to  the 
great  Lick  Observatory  on  the  summit  of  Mt.  Hamilton.  This  greatest 
astronomical  observatory  in  the  world  was  the  princely  gift  of  James  Lick, 
the  California  millionaire,  whose  body  lies  entombed  beneath  the  great  tele- 
scope. Unlike  most  observatories,  this  one  is  open  daily  to  visitors,  and  the 
interesting  instruments  a"nd  appliances  are  freely  shown  and  their  uses  ex- 
plained. 

The  trip  is  made  by  stage,  starting  from  the  Hotel  Vendome,  and  with 
two  changes  of  horses  on  the  way.  The  stages,  the  horses  and  the  drivers 
are  all  keenly  interesting  to  the  visitor,  and  the  road  is  the  best  oiled  road 
in  the  State;  twenty-eight  miles  of  dustless  highway  winding  through  beau- 
tiful scenery  from  the  valley  eighty  feet  above  sea  level  up  through  cafions 
and  over  grades  to  the  summit  and  the  observatory  four  thousand  feet  and 
more  above. 


397 
SANTA   CLARA 

Adjoining  San  Jose  on  the  northwest,  with  less  than  four  miles  between 
their  business  centers,  and  no  break  in  their  residence  sections,  is  the  city 
of  Santa  Clara,  one  with  its  larger  neighbor  in  all  but  n^unicipal  government. 
An  electric  line  and  two  railroad  lines  unite  the  twin  cities,  the  smaller  of 
which  has  the  proud  distinction  of  owning  its  own  light,  power  and  water 
plants,  and  of  having  the  lowest  tax  rate  of  any  city  in  the  United  States — a 
rate  which,  by  the  setting  aside  of  a  special  fund,  is  to  be  lowered  in  the 
future,  rather  than  increased. 

Santa  Clara  is  an  increasingly  important  business  and  manufacturing 
center.  The  Pacific  Manufacturing  Company,  dealing  in  prepared  lumber, 
has  great  mills  and  lumber  yards  covering  twenty-one  acres  and  requiring 
the  services  of  400  men,  with  a  monthly  pay  roll  of  $24,000. 

The  Eberhard  tannery  is  the  largest  on  the  Coast  and  one  of  the  largest 
in  the  United  States.  Its  worlds  cover  six  acres  of  ground,  with  an  employ- 
ment list  of  one  hundred  menhrtd  a  pay  roll  of  $5,000.00  monthly.  It  makes 
the  finest  grades  of  leather,  and  sends  great  jquantities  to  eastern  leather 
workers  who  have  learned  to  depend  upon  the  superior  quality  of  the  Eber- 
hard leathers  for  their  choicest  work. 

The  California  Fruit  Association  has  here  the  largest  packing  house  in  the 
United  States,  and  many  lesser  firms  are  engaged  in  packing  and  distributing 
dried  fruits. 

A  cannery  employing  300  men  and  having  a  floor  space  of  150x350  feet 
is  in  operation,  with  a  pay  roll  of  $6,000  a  month. 

The  Morse  Seed  Company  employs  200  men  and  is  the  packing  place  for  the 
largest  seed- farms  in  the  world;  the  seeds  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  being 
as  famous  as  its  fruits,  and  used  by  market  and  private  gardeners  in  all 
parts  of  the  world.     It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  where  Germany  a  few  years 


8TRBBT  8CBNB  IN  SANTA  CLARA  Photo  by  Mrs,  Hart 


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SANTA  CLARA  FRUIT  PACKING  HOUSB  Pkoto  by  Mrs.  Hare 

ago  sent  quantities  of  seeds  to  the  California  market  gardeners,  the  California 
seed-farms  now  return  a  good  share  of  the  seeds  planted  in  Germany.  The 
leading  seed  dealers  of  the  United  States  have  their  farms  in  the  Santa 
Clara  valley,  and  the  products  are  shipped  by  the  car,  and  sometimes  by  the 
train-load,  from  Santa  Clara. 

In  proportion  to  its  population,   Santa   Clara  has  a  large  number  of  its 
people   engaged   in   manufacturing  4han   has   any  other   town   in   the   State. 


PACIFIC  MILLS,  SANTA  CLARA  PhotO  by  Mtt,  Hart 

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SANTA  CLARA 


399 


THB  KBW   HIGH  SCBOOb  AT  SANTA  CLARA 


Photo  by  Nelson's  Studio 


New  enterprises  are  recognizing  its  unusual  advantages  and  seeking  foothold, 
and  there  is  yet  room  for  all  that  are  sure  to  come  as  the  manufacturing 
interest  of  the  coast  develops. 

Santa  Clara  has  unusual  social  and  educational  advantages.  Its  High 
School  and  other  schools  are  of  the  finest  character,  and  the  Santa  Clara 
College,  founded  in  185 1  by  the  Jesuit  Order,  ig  a  large  institution  with 
university  powers,  giving  a  classical  education  equal  to  the  best  in  Europe 
and  America,  and  having  the  best  physical  and  chemical  laboratories  in  the 
State. 

In  point  of  age,  Santa  Clara  outranks  her  sister  city  by  six  years,  being  one 
of  the  early  Missions  of  California,  established  in  1771.  The  old  adobe 
church,  built  and  decorated  by  the  Indian  converts,  is  still  in  use,  and  the 


SAXTA  CLARA  COLLBGB 

(Founded  1851.    The  oldest  Catholic  iosiitntioa  for  higher  edncation  in  California.) 

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HAKVKSTING  ONION  SEED  Photo  by  Mrs,  Itarc 

old  bells  given  by  the  kings  of  Spain  still  sound  the  call  to  prayer  at  morning 
and  night.  The  city  retains  another  memory  of  the  old  days  of  Spanish 
occupation  in  the  beautiful  plaza,  once  the  general  meeting  place  of  residents 
and  visitors. 


CARROTS  FOR  SEED  ON  ONE  OF  SANTA  CLARA*S  SEED  FARMS 


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mountain;  VIEW 


Ten  miles  northwest  from  San  Jose,  on  the  double  track,  is  the  beautiful 
town  of  Mountain  View,  a  favorite  residence  place  for  business  men  of  San 
Francisco.  It  is  only  two  miles  from  the  southern  arm  of  San  Francisco  bay 
and  three  miles  from  the  foothills  of  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains,  situated 
in  the  center  of  one  of  the  richest  and  most  beautiful  farming  regions  of 
California. 

Mountain  View  has  its  own  water  system,  electric  lighting,  and  a  telephone 


A   MOUNTAIN  VIBW  HOMB 


MOUKTAIK  VZBW  BUlIHBll  ITKBBT 


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,  MOUNTAIZf  VIBW  SCHOOL 

service  which  extends  all  over  the  surrounding  country,  connecting  everj' 
rancher  and  orchardist  with  the  business  centers  in  a  few  moments.  It  has 
fine  business  blocks,  a  bank,  two  newspapers,  and  the  largest  printing  and 
publishing  establishment  west  of  Chicago,  the  Pacific  Press  Publishing  Com- 
pany. The  ^reat  plant  of  this  firm  is  housed  in  a  magnificent  brick  building 
covering  an  acre  of  ground  and  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  beautiful  five- 
acre  park  four  blocks  from  the  business  center  of  the  town.  It  employs 
about  200  people,  and  has  a  monthly  pay  roll  running  into  many  thousands 
of  dollars. 

In  locating  this  great  business  at  Mountain  View  special  attention  was  given 
to  the  ideal  climate,  to  its  railroad  facilities,  and  to  the  unsurpassed  home 
possibilities  for  its  employees,  and  the  rare  social  and  educational  oppor- 
tunities presented  to  their  families.  No  more  perfect  location  could  be 
found  for  an  ideal  colony  of  working  people,  or  for  a  large  business  plant 
of  any  sort. 


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403 
fPALO   ALTO 

A  great  redwood  tree  lifting  its  noble  crown  above  the  lesser  company 
of  live  oaks  and  other  forest  folk  is  the  most  ancient  and  best  known  land- 
mark in  the  Santa  Clara  valley.  "Palo  Alto"  the  name-wise  Spaniards  called 
the  section  surrounding  the  kingly  guide  post,  and  Palo  Alto  it  is  today— the 
seat  of  the  largest  endowed  university  in  the  world. 

When  the  parents  of  Leland  Stanford  Jr.  decided  that  they  could  offer 
no  more  lasting  memorial  to  their  dead  son  than  to  build  and  endow  a  great 
educational  institution  for  the  sons  and  daughters  of  other  parents,  it 
seemed  most  natural  that  the  site  should  be  chosen  from  the  lands  owned  by 
Senator  Stanford  in  the  Santa  Clara  Valley. 

Here  was  the  ideal  location,  a  beautiful,  fertile,  secluded  valley  with  a 
climate  all  the  year  round  scarcely  to  be  matched  anywhere  else  in  the 
world.     Easy  of  access,  near  to  the  ocean  and  to  the  largest  city  of  the  coast, 

not  far  from  many  towns  and  from  the 
great  agricultural  areas  of  the  State,  it 
would  seem  that  no  wiser  choice  could 
have  been  made. 

Not  often,  perhaps  never  before,  was  a 
scat  of  learning  surrounded  by  so  much 
natural  beauty.  The  live  oaks  that  shel- 
tered the  Tejon  Indians  who  roved 
through  the  valley  when  the  Spaniards 
found  it,  and  under  which  the  Spanish 
soldiers  camped,  have  been  left  untouched 
in  street  and  garden.  The  near  hills  and 
canons,  full  of  wild  beauty,  are  a  play- 
ground such  as  no  university  ever  before 
had,  and  the  architecture  of  the  great  pile 
is  in  finest  harmony  with  the  spirit  and 
tradition  of  the  land  in  which  it  is  set. 
The  cost  of  the  entire  group  of  buildings 
has  not  been  made  public,  but  it  is  esti- 
mated that  the  stone  work  alone  has  taken 
$8,000,000. 

The  buildings  constitute  a  college  group 
not  to  be  surpassed  anywhere  in  the 
world.  The  rarely  beautiful  Memorial 
Church  is  the  most  remarkable  structure 
of  its  kind  in  the  United  States,  and  the 
massive  Memorial  Arch  is  the  largest  in 
America  and  the  second  largest  in  the 
world.  It  is  built  of  San  Jose  sandstone, 
a  hundred  feet  high,  eighty-five  feet  wide, 
and  thirty-six  feet  in  depth.  Around  the 
top  passes  a  great  allegorical  frieze  with 
sculptured  figures  twelve  feet  high  carved 
from  solid  stone. 

Since  the  doors  of  the  great  universitv 
were  opened  fourteen  years  ago,  over  four 
thousand  students  have  entered  from  all 
parts  of  the  world;  the  benefits  offered  by 
Senator  Stanford  not  being  confined  to 
California  or  to  the  United  States.    Stan* 


ford  graduates  are  found  filling /resj 


THB  TALL  TiiBB.  PALO  ALTO  Digitized  by 


^mgk 


404  OUT    WBST 


KNTRANCtf  TO  STANFORD  UMVBSSXTY  Pboto  by  CtU,  College  of  Pkotograti*y 


sible  positions  the  world  over,  1500  degrees  having  been  granted — and  earned, 
since  no  "honorary  degrees"  are  conferred — during  the  existence  of  the  uni- 
vrsity.  The  groups  of  buildings,  all  in  soft  yellow  sandstone  with  red  tile 
roofs,  have  grown  steadily  to  accommodate  more  pupils  and  a  larger  faculty, 
and  the  place  must  grow  in  beauty  and  importance  as  the  years  pass. 

The  twelve-year-old  city  of  Palo  Alto,  grown  up  around  the  great  university, 
could  not  be  otherwise  than  exceptional  in  its  general  characteristics.  It 
has  the  best  that  such  a  town  might  be  expected  to  offer,  with  still  other 
charms  and  advantages  peculiarly  its  own.  It  began  with  fifteen  inhabitants 
and  has  now  five  thousand — five  thousand  people  of  culture  and  intelli- 
gence, bent  upon  handling  the  problems  which  confront  a  growing  city  in  a 
manner  quite  different  from  the  customary. 

Palo  Alto  needed  a  water  system,  but  it  did  not  want  one  under  private 
control.  The  city  bored  artesian  wells,  got  a  flow  of  pure  water,  and  dis- 
tributed the  same  to  its  citizens  at  rates  below  the  average  private  supply. 

The  city  outgrew  the  water  plant,  and  a  larger  one  was  installed  on  the 
same  basi^. 

The  city  needed  electric  lighting  and  this  too  was  supplied  and  controlled 
by  the  municipality,  the  prices  being  little  above  half  the  private  rate. 

In  1898  the  town  constructed  a  perfect  sewer  system  with  an  outlet  into 
the  bay. 


MAIN  BUILDINOl,  8TANF0KD  UWIVBRIITY  PkoiO  by  CaL  Colltg^  0/  PkotOgrafky 

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MBMORIAL  CHURCH,  STANFORD  UNIVBRSITY 


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406  OUT    WEST 


AKBOIBTUM,  STANFOKD  UNXVBR8ITY  Photo  by  Cal.  CMtgt  of  PhiUograpky 


BMTRANCB  TO  STANFORD  UNIVERSITY  Pkoto  by  Cal.  CoUegt  of  Pkotoftrapky 


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fALO  ALTO  407 


STANFORD  UNIVBR8ITY 


Street  improvement  is  now  under  way,  though  the  streets,  sidewalks  and 
roadways  of  Palo  Alto  are  already  the  cleanest  in  the  State. 

The  matter  of  saloons  was  early  and  firmly  settled;  any  land  on  which 
intoxicating  liquors  were  made  or  sold  would  revert  to  the  original  owner. 
There  are  many  churches,  and  ample  and  excellent  schools  apart  from  the 
University.  A  Carnegie  library  is  just  completed  and  there  are  other  fine 
collections  of  books  open  to  the  public. 

Palo  Alto  is  primarily  a  place  of  homes.     Many  San  Francisco  business 
men  choose  to  have  their  families  in  the  more  quiet  and  attractive  university     % 
town.     Many  people   are   drawn   by   the   educational   advantages,   not  to  be 
found  elsewhere  on  the  coast;  and  many  find  in  its  atmosphere  the  culture 
and  simplicity  lacking  in  more  hurried  centers. 

Many  beautiful   tracts  of  land  have  recently  been  opened   for   homes   at 


A   PALO  ALTO  STRBBT 


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A  PALO  ALTO  STRBET 

prices  so  reasonable  as  to  offer  special  inducement  to  families  seeking  a 
permanent  location,  with  moderate  means.  Comfort  rather  than  display 
is  the  prevailing  tone  of  the  city,  and  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  homes 
built  in  the  past  year  the  average  cost  was  $3000. 

It  is  a  place  in  which  a  man  of  average  means  can  build  a  home  and 
educate  his  children  without  mortgaging  his  whole  future  to  drudgery.  The 
time  will  probably  come  when  Palo  Alto  will  be  a  city  of  many  thousand 
inhabitants  and  of  large  and  larger  business  importance;  but  it  will  never 
be  less  a  city  of  homes  and  of  living  fine  and  simple  beyond  the  ordinary. 

To  sum  up  a  few  of  the  features  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  as  a  whole, 
it  has: 

The  largest  fruit  cannery  in  the  world. 

The  largest  fruit  packing   house   in    the    world. 

The  largest  fruit  drying  ground  in  the  world. 


PALO  alto's  business  cbntbr 

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A  PALO  ALTO  8TREBT 


A   PALO  ALTO  RBglDBIiCK 

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A  COIXBK  Xlf   PALO  ALTO 

The  largest  seed  farms  in  the  world. 
The  largest  .quicksilver  mines  in  the  world. 
The  largest  brick  plants  in  the  West. 
The  largest  woolen  mill  in  California. 
Six  million  bearing  fruit  trees. 
Six  thousand  acres  of  grape  vines. 
Public  school  buildings  worth  a  million  dollars. 
The  most  largely  endowed  university  in  the  world. 
One  of  the  best  all-<he-year-round  climates  in  the  wo:  Id. 
Thousands  of  homes  owned  by  the  men  who  live  in  them — and  room  for 
thousands  more. 


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411 
LOS   GATOS 

Close  in  the  shadow  of  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains,  Los  Gates,  "the  gem 
city  of  the  foothills,"  overlooks  the  Santa  Clara  valley  from  an  elevation  of 
four  hundred  feet.  It  is  far  enough  above  the  sea  so  that  fogs  rarely 
reach  it,  far  enough  above  the  valley  and  near  enough  to  the  shelter  of  the 
hills  so  that  frosts  are  almost  unknown,  and  the  richness  of  soil  and  abund- 
ance of  pure  mountain  water  have  made  it  famous  in  this  garden-like  valley, 
where  every  little  area  seems  to  have  its  own  peculiar  charm  and  advantage, 
while  sharing  the  beauty  of  the  whole. 

Los  Gatos  is  ten  miles  southwest  of  San  Jose  and  connected  with  that 
city  by  railroad  and  electric  railway.  So  thorough  is  its  transportation 
system  that  hundreds  of  students  and  business  men  prefer  to  live  in  Los 
Gatos  and  go  back  and  forth  to  San  Jose  or  Palo  Alto  daily.  It  is  the 
home  city  of  many  men  of  wealth  who  have  found  it  the  ideal  spot  in  which 
to  enjoy  life  after  the  press  of  business  carried  on  elsewhere. 

The  city  is  especially  beautiful,  built  in  wandering  fashion  over  the  foothill 
terraces  and  around  little  hills  with  wooded  ravines  and  little  cafions 
between.  Almost  every  home  in  the  city  commands  a  beautiful  and  far- 
sweeping  view  of  the  valley  and  the  enclosing  mountain  ranges.  A  well- 
known  author  who  for  some  years  had  his  home  at  Los  Gatos  said  that  the 
place  had  the  old-world  charm  of  the  lovely  English  town  of  Clovelly  or 
of  some  of  the  villages  in  southern  France. 

But  Los  Gatos  has  more  than  beauty*  it  has  good  streets,  fine  and  artistic 
business  blocks;  schools,  including  a  high  school;  a  public  library,  and  the 
Novitiate  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  the  large  buildings  of  which  have  a  com- 
manding location.  The  fruit  industry  supports  a  large  cannery,  a  dried  fruit 
packing  house,  and  two  wineries. 

One  charm  of  the  city  is  Los  Gatos  Creek,  which  divides  it  into  two 
sections,  united  by  a  broad  bridge. 

It   is  both   a  summer  and  a  winter  resort   and  has  two  good  hotels  and 


l.QQKl»Q  up  LOS  OATQS  CKBBK  PAoiQ  by  Wa^Htr 


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LOS  0AT08 


many  comfortable  cottages  for  rent  at  reasonable  rates.  The  smallest  places 
are  made  beautiful  by  the  fine  old  trees,  and  the  people  of  the  city  are 
friendly,  intelligent,  and  wide  awake  to  all  advancement.  The  population 
is  3000,  and  growing  so  rapidly  that  land  values  have  risen  considerably 
within  the  year.  .       i 

Los  Gatos  has  one  unique  distinction — it  has  as  yet  no  school  or  city 
bonds  or  debt.  A  small  yearly  tax-levy  has  met  all  expenses  of  education 
and  government,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  wisdom  and  public  spirit 
of  its  citizens  may  continue  this  pleasant  condition. 


IN   THE    SANTA  CRUZ   MOUNTAIN'S,  N^AK   LQsCgATO^ 


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LOS  OATOS  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  PhotO  bv  Waff/ier 

In  the  outskirts  of  Los  Gatos  and  in  the  surrounding  foothills  are  many 
mineral  springs  of  medicinal  value  and  much  popularity  as  places  of  resort. 
The    Pacific    Congress    is   by    analysis    almost    an    exact    duplicate    of    the  • 
famous  Congress  Springs  in  New  York. 

Some  of  the  springs  contain  iron  and  magnesia,  other  various  combina- 
tions of  minerals,  and  one  of  the  springs  from  which  Los  Gatos  draws  its 
water  supply  has  been  found  by  analysis  to  be  as  pure  as  the  ordinary  dis- 
tilled water  of  commerce.     These  many  springs  form  delightful  camping  and 


A   BUSINESS  CORNBR  IN   LOS  OATOS 

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414  OUT    WEST 


BOTBL  LYNDON,  LOS  GAT08 


picnic  places  and  some  of  them  are  the  center  of  summer  colonies  drawing 
their  supplies  from  the  town.  In  the  future  there  will  be  summer  hotels  and 
cottages  at  many  of  th^se  springs  and  at  points  of  beauty  in  the  near  hills 
and  canons. 


THE  NOVITIATB  Pkoto  by  Wagner 


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SXj    « 


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Formerly 

THe   L»n<i   of  S\sn«Hlno 


THE  NATION  BACK  OF  US,  THE  WORLD  IN  FRONT. 


VoL  XXm,    No.  4.  CCTOBER.  1905. 

Copyrisht  1905.  by  Out  WMt  Magazin*  Co.    All  righte  reMrved. 

LOS  ANGELES  AND  THE  OWENS  RIVER 

By  CHARLES  AMADON  MOODY 

ERHAPS  not  one  of  the  countless  thousands 
who  have  come  to  Los  Angeles,  in  these  later 
%  years,  to  wonder,  admire,  enjoy  and  pass  on, 
-  has  failed  to  cast  more  than  one  look  of  con- 
temptuous pity  at  the  tiny  thread  of  a  stream, 
almost  lost  in  its  broad,  sandy  bed,  which  we 
call  the  Los  Angeles  River;  and  few  are  the  dwellers  in  this 
chosen  city  who  have  not  at  some  time  felt  it  incumbent  upon 
them  to  apologize  for  its  inefficient  trickle  by  tales  of  the  im- 
posing torrent  which  sometimes  pours  down  that  dry  bed  in 
a  rainy  season.  Ignorant  and  unnecessary  have  been  both  sneer 
and  apology — as  indeed,  both  sneer  and  apology  are  apt  to  prove 
when  all  the  facts  are  known.  For  that  same  ridiculous  little 
rivulet  has  been,  literally  and  exactly,  the  life-blood  of  this  com- 
munity. Without  it,  not  one  of  the  material  developments  of  which 
we  who  live  here  are  proud — the  sky-scraping  business  blocks,  the 
far-reaching  net-work  of  electric  roads,  the  acres  of  emerald 
lawns,  the  miles  of  shade  trees,  the  shimmering  mesh  of  fra- 
grant greenery  with  which  the  city  drapes  itself,  remaining  fresh 
and  fragrant  still  after  half  a  dozen  rainless  months — not  one  of 
these  could  even  have  entered  into  the  imagination  of  man.  And 
if  some  convulsion  of  nature  were  to  cut  off  wholly  the  flow  of 
the  river  for  a  single  month,  the  city  would  be  empty,  silent,  de- 
serted. The  river  has  given  itself  for  service — given  itself  more 
and  more  fully  as  the  need  has  grown  greater,  until  today  we 


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TH9  SAN  FBKI«ANP0  WATERSHBp 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND  THE  OWENS  RIVER         419 

can  see  not  far  ahead  the  utmost  possible  limit  of  its  daily  giving 
— and  can  see  beyond  that  the  certain  and  peremptory  need  for 
more.  It  is  well,  indeed,  for  Los  Angeles  that  a  few  of  her  citi- 
zens foresaw  long  ago  the  need  that  was  certain  to  arise,  have 
been  searching  patiently  and  eagerly  for  a  method  by  which  that 
necessary  more  could  be  supplied  in  time — and  have  found  it. 

Before  considering  the  future  water-supply  of  Los  Angeles — a 
supply  which  can  be  made  ample  for  the  utmost  conceivable 
needs  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  for  a  hundred  years 
to  come,  and  more — it  will  be  well  to  state  briefly  the  facts  (for 
which  I  am  largely  indebted  to  the  annual  reports  of  the  Board 
of  Water  Commissioners)  concerning  its  present  water  system, 
its  administration,  and  the  sources  upon  which  it  depends. 

Lying  just  northwest  of  Los  Angeles,  the  San  Fernando  Valley 
stretches  for  some  twenty  miles  westerly,  between  the  Sierra 
Madre  and  the  Santa  Monica  mountains,  to  the  Santa  Susana 
mountains,  its  greatest  width  being  some  ten  miles.  In  this 
valley  the  Los  Angeles  river  rises,  being  fed  from  nearly  500 
miles  of  watershed.  During  the  heavy  rains  of  our  "rainy  sea- 
son," every  mountain  cafion  carries  a  roaring  torrent,  which  dis- 
charges tremendous  volumes  of  water  into  the  valley.  Now^  if 
the  valley  were  other  than  it  is,  this  fact  would  be  of  little  con- 
sequence so  far  as  a  regular  supply  of  water  throughout  the  year, 
and  year  after  year,  is  concerned.  The  torrents  would  simply 
race  to  the  sea,  and  be  lost.  But  the  San  Fernando  is  a  valley 
not  of  erosion,  but  of  construction.  That  is,  it  was  not  formed 
by  the  slow  grind  of  the  river  through  thousands  of  years,  but 
came  into  existence  as  a  sort  of  deep  pocket  while  Mother  Earth 
was  still  writhing  in  the  pangs  of  continent-making;  and  through 
thousands  of  years,  and  tens  of  thousands,  it  has  been  filling  up 
with  granitic  detritus  from  the  surrounding  mountains.  The 
result  has  been  that  when  the  winter  torrents  have  poured  out 
into  the  valley,  these  deep  beds  of  gravel  and  coarse  sand  have 
absorbed  the  flood-waters  with  almost  incredible  greed,  to  give 
them  out  again  only  slowly,  slowly,  through  year  after  year. 
The  result  is  that  the  San  Fernando  Valley  is  in  effect  a  gigantic 
storage  reservoir,  huger,  more  perfect  and  more  efficient  than 
human  brain  could  devise  or  human  strength  and  ingenuity  con- 
struct. Some  years  ago,  at  a  meeting  of  the  National  Forestry 
Association  held  in  Los  Angeles,  an  expert  authority  (my  recol- 
lection is  that  it  was  W.  C.  Mendenhall,  of  the  U.  S.  Geological 
Survey)  declared  that  if  no  rain  fell  for  seven  years  the  San  Fer- 
nando gravel  beds  would  continue  to  furnish  the  water  necessary 
for  the  city,  on  the  scale  of  its  requirements  at  that  time.  But 
Los  Angeles  has  more  than  doubled  in  population  since  then,  and 


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LOOKING  SOUTHBKLY   ACKOSS  CENTRAL  PARK,  LOS  ANGBLR!*,  IN   1887       Pkoio  by  C,  C.  Puree  d   Ci 

we  have  succeeded  in  making  heavy  drafts  on  even  that  mighty 
natural  reservoir. 

The  Los  Angeles  River  then,  so  fed  and  so  maintained,  has 
been  almost  the  sole  source  of  water-supply  to  the  city  it  made 
possible,  from  the  founding  of  the  "Pueblo  de  Nuestra  Senora  la 
Reina  de  los  Angeles,"  in  1781,  to  this  day.     Through  all  that 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND   THE  OWENS  RIVER         421 

time,  the  city  has  had  a  paramount  right  to  so  much  of  the  stream 
as  it  needed,  both  surface  and  underground  flow,  and  to  all  its 
feeders,  above  ground  or  below.  "The  earlier  use  of  the  waters," 
I  quote  from  the  Water  Commissioners'  report  for  1902,  "was 
naturally  chiefly  for  irrigation,  and  the  domestic  supply  was 
largely  obtained  from  the  zanjas  or  irrigating  ditches.  Gradu- 
ally a  crude  system  of  wooden  and  iron  pipes  for  domestic  supply 
was  evolved,  in  which  condition,  in  the  year  1868,  the  water 
works,  such  as  they  were,  were  taken  over  by  the  predecessors  of 
the  Los  Angeles  City  Water  Company  under  the  thirty-year 
contract,  whose  term  expired  on  the  24th  day  of  July,  1898. 
When  this  contract  went  into  effect,  the  population  of  the  city 
was  about  5000,  and  for  the  first  year  the  gross  earnings  of  the 
company  did  not  exceed  $20,000;  when  the  contract  expired, 
the  population  of  the  city  was  over  100,000,  and  the  gross  earn- 
ings of  the  company  about  $425,000  per  annum.  The  water  com- 
pany took  over  a  primitive  system  consisting  of  about  two  miles 
of  wooden  pipe,  about  one  mile  of  iron  pipe,  and  an  antiquated 
water  wheel  for  the  raising  of  the  water  from  the  river;  it  turned 
over  to  the  city  finally  a  system  composed  of  over  325  miles  of 
iron  pipe,  ranging  in  size  from  forty-eight  inches  to  two  inches, 


CRNTRAL  PARK  l»  19(i5  Photo  by  C.  C.  Pierce  Jt  Co. 


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LOS  ANGBLBS  AND   TUB  OWBNS  RIVER         423 

with  many  miles  of  ditches,  tunnels,  infiltration  galleries,  reser- 
voirs and  pumping  plants." 

As  the  end  of  the  contract  in  1898  drew  near,  argument  as  to 
what  to  do  next  sprung  up,  and  soon  rose  to  a  veritable  whirl- 
wind. The  question  of  the  water-supply  touched  everyone  living 
in  the  city,  and  pretty  much  everyone  had  an  opinion — often 
several  entirely  irreconcilable  opinions — and  expressed  them 
freely.  There  were  those  (besides  the  owners  of  the  Water  Com- 
pany) who  believed  that  thirty  years'  usage  had  given  some  sort 
of  vested  right  to  a  few  individuals  to  administer  the  water-sup- 
ply of  a  great  city,  steadily  growing  greater,  and  to  collect  hand- 
somely for  it.  There  were  more  who  honestly  believed  that  the 
only  way  to  get  competent,  effective  and  economical  administra- 
tion of  the  water-system  was  to  leave  it  in  the  hands  of  capable 
business  men  whose  enlightened  selfishness  would  warrant  a 
better  result  to  the  city  at  large  than  could  be  had  from  the 
city's  own  servants,  who  would  not  have  the  stimulus  of  personal 
profit  to  urge  them  on.  Some  thought  that  the  system  was 
worn  out  and  practically  worthless,  and  that  the  city  should  sim- 
ply take  possession  of  its  water  rights,  paying  only  a  nominal 
price  for  the  property  of  the  Water  Company.  The  owners  of 
the  company,  on  the  other  hand,  valued  their  property  far  up 
in  the  millions,  and  besides  read  a  different  meaning  into  the 
contract  from  that  generally  accepted.  There  followed  law- 
suits which  settled  nothing,  and  arbitrations  which  did  not  arbi- 
trate, and  it  was  only  in  1901,  three  years  after  the  contract  ex- 
pired, that  a  compromise  was  reached,  the  city  voted  five  to  one 
for  a  bond  issue  of  $2,000,000  to  buy  out  the  owners  of  the  system, 
did  buy  them  out,  and  took  possession  of  its  own  again. 

The  result  of  the  four  years  that  have  passed  is  an  overwhelm- 
ing triumph  for  the  principle  of  municipal  ownership  of  public 
utilities,  and  a  putting  to  shame  of  those  who  doubted  that  nat- 
ural monopolies  upon  which  the  entire  community  was  depend- 
ent could  be  safely  left  to  the  community  to  handle.  It  is  true 
that  the  conditions  have  been  as  favorable  as  possible.  The 
Board  of  Water  Commissioners,  serving  without  pay,  has  been 
made  up  from  among  the  city's  most  honored  and  successful 
business  men,  beyond  suspicion  of  graft  or  ''doing  politics"  to 
the  injury  of  the  public  service.  And  the  Superintendent,  Will- 
iam Mulholland,  who  had  spent  most  of  his  mature  manhood  in 
the  employ  of  the  Water  Company,  has  been  a  veritable  tower  of 
strength,  giving  to  his  duty  without  doubt  far  more  freely  from 
his  energy  of  mind  and  body  than  he  could  possibly  have  done 
if  he  had  owned  the  whole  plant  with  the  profits  flowing  into  his 
own  pockets.    It  is  not  only  on  the  financial  side  that  the  wisdom 


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424  OUT    WEST 

of  the  city  in  regaining  its  water  system  and  the  fidelity  of  her  citi- 
zens in  administering  it  are  shown,  though  the  financial  results 
are  satisfactory  beyond  expectation.  One  of  the  early  steps 
taken  by  the  Board  was  to  reduce  the  price  of  water  to  the  con- 
sumers, ten  per  cent  on  "flat"  rates  and  fifty  per  cent  where  meters 
were  used.  Nevertheless,  in  four  years,  the  Water  Departmnt, 
after  paying  all  operating  expenses,  interest  on  all  water-bonds 
and  the  pro  rata  of  sinking  fund  to  retire  the  bonds  in  forty 
years,  has  earned  a  net  profit  of  nearly  $1,500,000,  which  has  been 
used  in  construction  and  for  permanent  betterments  to  the  plant. 
It  is  not  likely  that  $20,000,000  would  today  be  any  temptation 


RASTLAKB  PARK  Photo  by  C.  C.  Pierce  dr  Co. 

One  of  the  purposes  for  which  Los  Angeles  needs  water 

to  the  people  of  Los  Angeles  to  surrender  again  to  private  enter- 
prise the  rights  which  they  resumed  four  years  ago  at  the  cost  of 
$2,000,000. 

But  more  important  than  any  financial  consideration  has  been 
the  economy  (comparative)  in  the  use  of  water  which  the  pres- 
ent management  has  brought  about.  During  the  last  year  of 
private  operation  of  the  water  system,  the  per  capita  consump- 
tion of  water  reached  a  maximum  of  over  300  gallons  a  day — the 
highest  rate  in  the  United  States.  Within  two  years,  partly  by 
persuasion  but  mainly  by  the  rapid  introduction  of  water-meters, 
whose   gentle    ticking   warned    careless    consumers    that   water 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND   THE   OWENS  RIVER         425 


WILLIAM  MULHOLLAND  PhotO  by  Steclel 

Supt.  of  I4O8  Anireles  Water  Department 

wasted  must  be  paid  for,  every  drop,  the  consumption  was  re- 
duced below  200  gallons  per  capita.  If  the  higher  rate  had  been 
allowed  to  persist,  Los  Angeles  would  have  had  to  face  a  seri- 
ous water  famine  in  each  of  the  three  summers  last  past.  And 
what  that  would  have  meant  to  her  prosperity,  anyone  can  guess. 
Obviously  one  of  the  first  tasks  to  which  the  Board  of  Water 
Commissioners  addressed  themselves  was  the  assurance  of  a 
sufficient  supply  of  water  for  a  long  term  of  years.    The  popula- 


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426  OUT    IV  EST 


LOOKING   ACROSS  LOS  ANORLBS  FROM  THB 


tion  of  Los  Angeles  was  shown  by  the  census  of  1900  to  be  just 
in  excess  of  100,000.  It  had  doubled  during  the  ten  years  from 
1880  to  1890,  and  doubled  again  from  1890  to  1900.  To  assume 
that  this  astonishing  rate  of  growth  would  be  continued  for  the 
next  ten  years  seemed  to  be  quite  a  sufficient  allowance.     It  ap- 


TRR  8AMR  VIRW 


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LOS  AMGBLBS  AND  TUB  OWBMS  ktVBk        427 


THIRD  8TRBBT  HILL,   ABOUT  1886  PhotO  by  C,  C,  PttTCe  A  Co. 

peared  clear  that  by  full  development  of  tlu*  t  \isting  sr;  j'lies  and 
prevention  of  vvasteful  consumption,  ami)le  water  o  aid  be 
counted  on  for  a  population  of  more  than  i^  quarter  of  a  million. 
This  meant  that  the  necessity  for  a  large  additional  supply  would 
not  arise  till  well  into  the  second  decade  of  the  century.     The 


iw  1904  Pltoio  by  R,  S,  Crandall 


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428  OUT    WEST 

first  year's  experience  seemed  to  carry  out  this  a"easoning,  as  the 
increase  in  "services"  amounted  to  about  ten  per  cent.  But  in 
i903»  about  75  per  cent  more  new  services  were  required  tTian 
the  year  before,  and  the  new  connections  in  1904  exceeded  by  25 
per  cent  those  of  1905.  In  fact,  Los  Angeles  was 
again  doubHng  its  population — but  this  time  in  five  years  instead 
of  ten.  The  margin  of  safety  which  had  looked  ample  for  a  dozen 
or  fifteen  years  had  been  almost  eliminated  in  less  than  four. 
Meantime  the  most  careful  investigation  had  been  made  of  every 
near-by  source  from  which  relief  might  possibly  be  expected, 
with  the  result  of  disclosing  some  costly  palliatives  but  no  per- 
manent remedy.  (The  most  complete  statement  of  the  facts  in 
that  respect  may  be  found  in  the  report  prepared  for  the  city  last 
spring  by  J.  B.  Lippincott,  Supervising  Engineer  of  the  U.  S. 
Reclamation  Service  for  this  district,  whose  personal  and  pro- 
fessional character  command  the  entire  respect  of  both  his  fellow 
citizens  and  his  professional  associates).    Where  else  to  look? 

And  then  a  fantastic  dream  which  had  haunted  Fred  Eaton, 
engineer,  ranchman  and  sometimes  Mayor  of  Los  Angeles,  for 
more  than  a  decade,  began  to  put  on  the  garb  of  sober  fact.  Thir- 
teen years  ago  he  saw,  or  thought  he  saw,  that  the  day  would 
come  when  Los  Angeles  would  turn  to  the  Owens  Valley  for  a 
water  supply.  The  hard-headed  associates  to  whom  he  confided 
the  vision  scoffed  at  it.  A  city  of  not  much  more  than  50,000, 
with  w^ater  enough  in  sight  for  five  times  as  many?  And  then 
to  bring  a  river  across  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  desert  and 
mountains?  Not  in  this  generation!  Yet  of  the  years  which  we 
count  as  spanning  the  life  of  a  generation,  hardly  a  third  had 
passed  before  the  vision  was  proved  truly  prophetic.  Today  the 
urgent  need  for  a  moiety  of  the  waters  of  the  Owens  River  is  at 
the  door  of  Los  Angeles ;  contracts  have  been  made  for  the  pur- 
chase of  lands  and  water-rights  sufficient  for  her  requirements, 
and  considerable  sums  of  money  paid  to  bind  them;  her  citizens 
have  voted  (14  to  i)  for  a  bond  issue  of  $1,500,000  to  complete 
these  purchases,  make  such  ad^ditional  ones  as  may  be  expedient, 
and  commence  the  work  of  construction ;  and  the  city  stands  com- 
mitted, if  present  plans  be  carried  out,  to  the  expenditure  of  at 
least  $20,000,000  within  the  next  four  years  on  "the  Owens  River 
Project." 

For  most  of  the  facts  which  follow  I  am  indebted  to  Superin- 
tendent Mulholland,  who,  by  the  way,  could  have  written  this 
article  much  more  effectively  than  I,  and  who  would  have  done 
so  had  he  been  able  to  spare  time  from  the  pressure  of  his  public 
duties,  always  exacting  but  just  now  unusually  so.  It  has  not 
been  possible  for  me  to  visit  Owens  Valley  at  this  time,  and  if  it 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND  THE  OWENS  RIVER         429 

had  been  possible,  I  should  still  (being  "nobbut  a  layman")  have 
been  obliged  to  rely  principally  upon  the  expert  statements  of 
those  who  have  given  the  matter  their  professional  attention. 

Owens  Valley  lies  some  two  hundred  miles  northeast  of  Los 
Angeles,  being  a  small  but  important  part  of  Inyo  County.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  west  and  north  by  the  Sierras,  on  the  east  by  the 
lower  range  known  at  different  points  as  the  Inyo,  White  and 
Coso  mountains;  on  the  south  it  opens  out  into  the  Mojave  Des- 


FRKD  BATON*  C.  E.  Photo  bv  Schumacher 

ert.  Roughly  speaking,  it  is  no  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide. 
Its  average  elevation  above  sea-level  is  about  4,000  feet.  The 
total  population  of  the  county  in  1900  was  4,377  and  the  last  as- 
sessed value  of  the  entire  county  was  $2,505,000 — Owens  Valley 
containing  much  the  greater  part  of  both  population  and  assessed 
value.  Stock  raising  and  agriculture  are  the  chief  industries  of 
the  valley,  alfalfa  being  the  most  important  crop.  A  branch  of 
the  Southern  Pacific  gives  a  roundabout  railroad  connection  with 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND   THE  OWENS  RIVER         431 

the  rest  of  the  State,  by  way  of  Nevada,  the  other  means  of 
communication  being  by  way  of  Mojave  and  a  thirty-six-hour 
stage  ride  across  the  desert.  The  isolation  of  the  valley  has  inter- 
fered with  the  marketing  of  its  crops,  but  the  recent  important 
mining  developments  in  adjacent  parts  of  Nevada  have  provided 
a  good  market  for  hay  and  other  produce.  The  largest  town  in 
the  valley  is  Independence,  with  about  500  inhabitants.  Bishop, 
the  county  seat,  has  about  350. 

Since  the  annual  rainfall  in  the  valley  is  exceedingly  small,  the 
existence  of  these  communities  and  of  practically  the  entire  popu- 
lation of  the  valley  depends  absolutely  upon  the  Owens  River. 
This  fine  stream,  whose  average  flow  during  the  year  probably 


OWENS  VALLEY 


exceeds  30,000  miners*  inches  (equivalent  to  a  daily  supply  of 
nearly  400,000,000  gallons)  is  fed  by  nearly  forty  creeks,  which 
in  turn  head  among  the  hundreds  of  sparkling  lakes  high  up  on 
the  flanks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  or  trace  to  living  springs  gushing 
out  from  the  lava  and  granite.  The  greatest  flow  of  the  river  is 
from  May  to  early  August.  Its  lowest  stage  is  in  early  Spring 
and  in  late  August  and  September.  All  the  water  not  used  by 
irrigators,  or  which,  having  been  used,  seeps  back  into  the  stream 
— at  the  lowest  stages  of  the  river  a  quantity  greatly  in  excess  of 
the  entire  present  water-supply  of  Los  Angeles — empties  into 
Owens  Lake,  which  has  no  outlet,  is  more  highly  alkaline  than 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and,  in  spite  of  the  floods  which  pour  into 
it,  is  slowly  shrinking  under  the  desert  sun. 


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Apart  from  domestic  uses  and  the  watering  of  stock,  the  water 
supply  of  the  Owens  Valley  is  now  utilized  to  irrigate  about 
35,000  acres  of  land,  mostly  in  alfalfa.  The  U.  S.  Reclamation 
Service  for  some  time  had  a  corps  of  engineers  in  the  valley 
to  investigate  the  desirability  of  spending  there  a  part  of  the 
funds  available  under  the  National  Irrigation  Law.  It  appeared 
that  it  would  be  possible  to  add  to  the  area  of  irrigated  lands 
about  twice  as  much  as  is  now  under  irrigation.  This  would  mean 
a  very  important  addition  to  the  prosperity  of  the  valley,  and  its 
residents  naturally  held  high  hopes  concerning  it.  Naturally,  too, 
since  Los  Angeles  cannot  take  away  a  considerable  part  of  the 
water  without  by  so  much  reducing  the  amount  left  available  for 
use  in  the  valley,  the  announcement  of  the  plan  brought  forth  a 
storm  of  violent  protest,  shared  in,  I  believe  by  far  the  greater 
part  of  its  residents.  Certainly,  the  one  resident  of  the  valiev 
whom  I  know  best  and  most  highly  esteem  is  a  most  vigorous 
protestant.  Something  concerning  the  relative  values  of  water  in 
the  valley  and  near  Los  Angeles  will  be  found  on  later  pages  of 
this  magazine,  and  it  is  entirely  probable  that  a  later  number 
of  Out  West  will  contain  a  full  statement  of  the  case  as  it  ap- 
pears to  Owens  Valley ;  but  its  discussion  would  be  out  of  place 
in  this  article. 

The  property  on  which  Mr.  Eaton  secured  options  in  behalf 
of  the  City  of  Los  Angeles,  since  assumed  directly  by  the  city, 
includes  nine-tenths  of  the  land  fronting  on  Owens  River  from 
Owens  Lake  for  some  forty-three  miles  north,  carrying  with  it 
riparian  rights  to  the  water  flowing  past;  the  entire  flow  of  Cot- 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND  THE  OWENS  RIVER 


433 


tonwoocl  Creek  and  Black  Rock  Springs,  with  other  important 
water-rights;  sites  for  impounding  reservoirs  convenient  to  the 
point  at  which  it  is  proposed  to  divert  the  stream;  and  a  large, 
reservoir  site  in  Long  Valley,  above  the  upper  end  of  Owens 
Valley.  With  a  dam  lOO  feet  high  and  costing  approximately 
$200,000,  the  last-named  reservoir  will  hold  water  to  supply 
7,500  miners'  inches  for  a  year — a  daily  flow  of  more  than  95,000,- 
000  gallons.  It  is  not  proposed  to  utilize  this  site  at  present,  as 
the  lower  impounding  reservoirs  can  be  counted  on  for  a  steady 
supply  of  4,500  miners'  inches. 

The  point  at  which  the  water  will  be  taken  from  the  river  is 
C'harley's  Butte,  about  thirty-seven  miles  above  Owens  Lake. 
(It  is  worth  while  to  record  here  the  fact  that  during  the  second 
week  in  October  of  this  year,  according  to  Mr.  Eaton,  who  was 
there  at  the  time,  15,000  miners'  inches  of  water  were  flowing 
past  that  point.)  The  elevation  above  sea-level  is  3,820  feet,  and 
it  would  be  entirely  possible  to  carry  the  water  into  Los  An- 
geles from  there  without  a  single  tunnel  and  without  a  foot  of 
pumping,  in  spite  of  the  intervening  mountain  ranges.  A  most 
careful  survey  of  all  the  "difficult  territory*'  has  proved  that 
conclusively.  In  fact,  however,  it  will  be  better  engineering  and 
more  economical  to  drive  about  seventeen  miles  of  tunnels.  The 
longest  of  these  will  be  about  five  miles,  through  the  solid  gran- 
ite, and  it  is  this  which  will  determine  the  time  required  to  com- 
plete the  whole  work.  The  tunnels  will  be  fourteen  feet  wide 
and  eleven  feet  high,  with  an  arched  roof.  This  will  permit  three 
drill-crews  to  work  steadily  in  the  face,  and  as  the  work  will  be 


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MAMMOTH  CRBST 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND   THE  OWENS  RIVER         437 

pushed  from  each  end,  twenty  feet  a  day  is  a  fair  estimate  of 
the  progress  of  the  work.  This  fixes  the  time  required  to  com- 
plete it  at  a  little  under  four  years.  Forty  miles  of  the  rest  of  the 
work  will  be  along  sidehills,  while  the  other  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  will  require  only  excavating  a  ditch  with  the  steam-shovel, 
building  in  the  conduit  and  covering  it  over  again.  The  conduit 
will  be  a  monolithic  concrete  construction,  fortified  with  steel, 
and  will  have  the  capacity  for  carrying  30,000  miners'  inches  of 
water,  the  average  speed  of  flow  being  four  miles  an  hour.  At 
a  few  places  inverted  steel  siphons  will  be  necessary  to  provide 


BOATING  ON  TWIN  LAKK 


against  danger  from  cloudbursts.  The  minimum  thickness  of 
the  conduit  walls  will  be  six  and  a  half  inches,  and  the  792,000 
feet  of  conduit  will  require  320,000  tons  of  cement.  Although  the 
most  modern  devices  will  be  employed  to  economize  hand  labor, 
the  services  of  about  5,000  men  will  be  steadily  employed  on  the 
work,  and  a  considerable  part  of  the  estimated  cost  of  $21,000,000 
will  therefore  be  expended  directly  for  labor. 

The  present  plan  is  to  deliver  that  part  of  the  water  required 
to  supplement  the  city's  domestic  supply  into  the  Little  Tejunga 
cafion,  from  which  it  will  be  rapidly  absorbed  by  the  mighty 
natural  storage  reservoir  of  the  San  Fernando,  to  filter  slowly 
through  the  sand  and  gravel  and  enter  the  receiving  galleries 


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438  OUT    WEST 

of  the  city's  water-plant  only  after  five  or  six  years.  This  does 
not  mean,  of  course,  that  the  city  will  have  to  wait  for  years  after 
the  work  is  completed  before  being  able  to  use  the  water,  if 
it  is  required,  as  it  would  be  easy  to  carry  it  directly  to  the  point 
of  intake,  instead  of  waiting  for  the  deliberate  process  of  perco- 
lation. The  water  not  needed  for  domestic  supply  will  pass  into 
conduits  at  the  foot  of  Little  Tejunga  cafion  and  be  delivered  di- 
rectly to  such  irrigable  tracts  as  may  arrange  for  it. 

Superintendent  Mulholland's  estimate  of  the  cost  of  the  en- 
tire enterprise  as  it  has  been  outlined,  including  all  purchases 


LONG  VALI^BY  DAM  8ITB,  LOOKING  UP  STREAM 

of  land  and  water,  is  $22,494,000.  This  has  been  worked  out  to 
the  minutest  detail,  with  a  view  to  finding  in  every  case  the  max- 
imum reasonable  cost  instead  of  the  minimum,  and  allowing  a 
generous  margin  for  error.  The  calculations  have  been  checked 
over  by  both  contractors  and  engineers,  and  all  agree  that  they 
are  sufficiently  liberal.  Mr.  Mulholland  has  made  estimates  for 
work  of  the  same  general  character  costing,  in  the  aggregate, 
many  millions  of  dollars,  and  the  actual  expenditure  has  always 
been  less  than  his  figures  called  for.  In  fact,  he  expects  in  this 
case  to  keep  several  million  dollars  inside  of  his  estimates.  If 
so,  so  much  the  better.  However  that  may  turn  out,  at  least 
one    disinterested,    conservative    and    competent    engineer    has 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND   THE  OWENS  RIVER         439 

placed  himself  on  record  as  willing  to  recommend  the  project  to 
private  capitalists,  as  a  sound  investment,  even  though  the  cost 
were  $45,000,000  instead  of  less  than  half  that  amount. 

The  condensed  statement  of  facts  through  which  I  have  just 
hastened  may  seem  dry  enough  reading,  but  the  results  to  which 
they  converge  should  be  sufficient  to  fire  the  practical  imag- 
ination of  the  coldest  brain.  What  the  bringing  of  this  noble 
stream  across  the  desert  and  through  the  mountains  will  signify 
to  Los  Angeles  and  the  surrounding  country  is  eloquently  set 
forth  by  Mr.  Smythe  in  following  pages,  and  I  need  not  dwell 


LONG  V'ALLBV   DAM  81TB,  LOOKING  DOWN   STREAM 

upon  it.  Yet  I  cannot  forbear  from  quoting  a  couple  of  sen- 
tences from  the  testimony  of  a  thoughtful  witness  before  the 
joint  investigating  committee  of  the  commercial  bodies  of  Los 
Angeles  a  few  weeks  ago:  "We  can  put  under  cultivation  all 
the  lands  from  Duarte  to  Santa  Monica,  and  practically  all  the 
lands  in  the  San  Fernando  Valley.  We  can  make  half  a  dozen 
Riversides  in  this  country  that  is  surrounding  us.'* 

And  this  means — it  is  worth  a  paragraph  to  itself — that  with- 
in a  radius  of  thirty  miles  from  the  City  Hall  of  Los  Angeles  there 
may  be  living,  before  this  generation  has  passed,  under  condi- 
tions more  nearly  ideal  than   now  exist  in  any  community  of 


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LOS  ANGELES  AND   THE  OWENS  RIVER         441 

similar  size  in  the  world,  more  people  than  are  now  in  all  Cali- 
fornia. 

I  have  not  as  yet  touched  upon  a  feature  of  the  Owens  River 
Project,  subsidiary,  to  be  sure,  to  the  vital  need  for  the  water 
itself,  but  of  sufficient  consequence  to  warrant  the  entire  ex- 
penditure planned  for — the  opportunities  for  the  development  of 
power  existing  where  a  million  tons  of  water  pours  daily  for 
year  after  year  out  of  a  channel  fourteen  feet  wide  to  a  vertical 
fall  of  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  This  is  a  rough  approxi- 
mation   (but  within   the  truth)    to  an   equivalent  of  what  will 


AUGUST  SNOWBANKS  ON  A   StBRRA  CRBST 


actually  happen  in  bringing  a  continuous  flow  of  20,000  miners' 
inches  from  the  diversion  point  on  Owens  River  to  the  San 
Fernando,  according  to  the  present  plans.  Mr.  Mulholland  es- 
timates the  total  power  development  reasonably  practicable 
along  the  entire  distance  at  85,000  to  90,000  horse-power.  More 
than  half  of  this  will  be  available  within  a  short  distance  from 
the  point  where  the  stream  emerges  from  the  longest  tunnel  into 
the  Little  Tejunga — a  scant  twenty-five  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
Estimating  the  development  at  this  point  alone  at  50,000  horse- 
power and  assuming  that  private  corporations  would  be  very 
glad  to  take  it  all  at  an  annual  rental  of  $15  per  horse-power 
for  the  ''head,"  constructing  their  own  plant,  it  is  clear  that  the 


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442  OUT    WEST 

interest  on  the  whole  bond  issue  would  be  almost  covered  by  this 
income  alone. 

Yet,  for  myself,  I  do  not  think  the  interest  will  ever  be  pro- 
vided in  just  that  way.  One  of  the  first  things  to  be  done  in 
carrying  out  the  Owens  River  Project  is  to  install  a  1,000-horse- 
power  plant  on  Cottonwood  Creek,  at  a  cost  of  $250,000,  from 
which  will  be  furnished  the  power  to  drive  the  drills  in  the  tun- 
nels, to  run  the  ventilators,  to  remove  the  debris,  to  excavate 
the  ditches,  to  mix  the  concrete  and  convey  it  from  the  mixer  to 
the  point  where  it  is  used — in  a  word,  to  do  whatever  can  be  done 
to  advantage  about  such  construction  by  electrically-driven  ma- 
chinery. During  the  four  years  which  must  elapse  before  the 
water  can  be  brought  to  the  Little  Tejunga,  Los  Angeles  will 
have  become  quite  accustomed  to  owning  and  operating  its  own 
power  plant.  And  with  the  object  lesson  which  we  have  already 
had  of  the  wisdom  of  controlling  our  own  water  plant  it  would 
be  strange  indeed  if  we  should  consent  to  farming  out  another 
public  utility  once  in  our  possession. 

There  is  a  dream  of  today  which  may  seem  to  most  even  more 
fantastic  than  Fred  Eaton's  dream  of  thirteen  years  ago.  It  is 
of  a  Greater  Los  Angeles,  reaching  from  the  mountains  to  the 
sea,  and  from  the  San  Gabriel  to  Simi  Pass ;  a  Los  Angeles  which 
shall  contain  within  its  bounds  well  towards  two  million  men, 
women  and  children,  more  prosperous,  happy  and  contented 
than  a  like  number  have  ever  been  since  history  began  to  run; 
a  Los  Angeles  whose  citizens  shall  ride  through  broad  and  beau- 
tiful streets  owned  by  the  city,  in  cars  belonging  to  the  city, 
driven  by  power  from  the  city's  plant,  to  homes  lighted  by  the 
city;  a  Los  Angeles  in  which  every  private  owner  of  public 
utilities  shall  have  surrendered  his  power  to  tax  his  fellow  citi- 
zens, having  been  paid  a  just — a  generous — compensation  for  all 
that  he  had  owned. 

Fantastic  the  dream  may  be,  but  there  are  many  who  dare  to 
dream  it,  and  to  believe  that  men  already  of  middle  age  will  live 
to  see  it  "come  true." 

Los  Auffeles 


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443 

KT^     A  THE  SOCIAL  SIGNIFICANCE  OF 

THE  OWENS  RIVER  PROJECT 

By  WILLIAM  E,  SMYTHE 

HE  overshadowing  fact  about  the  Owens  River  de- 
velopment is  its  social  significance — the  fact  that 
it  will  lay  a  secure  foundation  for  a  permanent, 
self-employing  population  to  live  prosperously 
within  easy  distance  of  what  is  destined  to  be  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  cities  in  the  world. 

It  is,  of  course,  a  great  thing  to  solve  the  question  of  domestic 
water  supply  for  an  urban  community  which  has  grown  so  con- 
stantly and  rapidly  that  few  people  now  smile  when  its  enthus- 
iastic prophets  predict  a  population  of  a  million  or  more,  but  it 
is  an  infinitely  greater  thing  to  make  it  possible  for  such  a  popu- 
lation to  become  reasonably  self-sustaining  and  measurably  re- 
move itself  from  the  influence  of  outside  vicissitudes. 

A  city  which  depends  almost  exclusively  upon  ulterior  condi- 
tions for  its  own  prosperity  is  never  quite  safe.  This  is  particu- 
larly true  of  a  city  which  relies  to  some  extent  on  the  favor  of 
the  tourist  public,  since  travel  for  pleasure  is  one  of  the  first 
luxuries  to  be  curtailed  in  seasons  of  depression.  The  really 
solid  town  is  the  one  whose  banks,  stores,  factories,  and  trans- 
portation facilities  are  chiefly  employed  in  serving  a  public  draw- 
ing its  sustenance  from  natural  wealth  in  its  immediate  neigh- 
borhood. The  difference  is  precisely  that  between  a  pyramid 
balanced  upon  its  apex  and  a  pyramid  resting  firmly  upon  its  own 
foundation.  In  a  certain  degree,  Los  Angeles  has  been  the 
former;  with  the  assurance  of  a  living  stream  from  the  high 
Sierras,  it  becomes  the  latter. 

And  so  I  repeat  that  while  it  is  a  great  thing  to  make  sure  that 
Los  Angeles  is  always  to  have  plenty  of  water  to  drink  and  to 
apply  for  other  domestic  uses,  and  while  it  is  a  great  thing  to 
steady  and  even  to  strengthen  the  prices  of  its  real  estate,  it  is 
a  far  greater  thing  to  make  it  possible  for  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  people  to  dwell  within  its  suburbs  on  land  of  their  own,  and  to 
work  for  themselves  in  the  midst  of  the  most  satisfying  social 
conditions. 

A  distinguished  United  States  engineer  tells  me  that  he  can 
make  a  good  living  for  himself  and  his  family  on  a  single  acre 
of  irrigated  land  at  Hollywood.  Superintendent  Mulholland  tells 
me  that  not  less  than  a  hundred  thousand  acres  of  such  land  will 
be  irrigated  by  the  new  public  system.  Put  these  two  authorita- 
tive statements  together,  while  remembering  that  the  average 


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OWENS  RIVER  PROJECT  445 

rural  family  consists  of  five  persons,  and  what  is  the  picture 
which  rises  before  your  mind?  Assuredly,  it  is  the  picture  of 
half  a  million  people  living  within  a  radius  of  twenty-five  miles 
from  the  City  Hall  at  Los  Angeles,  the  majority  of  them  within 
five  to  fifteen  miles.  Consider  what  this  means,  even  from  the 
material  point  of  view. 

Within  the  present  limits  of  Los  Angeles  there  lives  a  popula- 
tion of  not  far  from  two  hundred  thousand  souls.  Statistics  are 
not  at  hand  to  indicate  what  proportion  of  these  are  actively  en- 
gaged in  regular  employments,  such  as  business,  the  professions, 
transportation,  skilled  and  common  labor,  and  what  proportion 


IN  ECHO  PARK,  LOS  ANOELR8  Photo  by  C.  C.  Pierce  A'  Co 

represents  the  leisure  class.  While  the  latter  element  is  doubtless 
unusually  large,  a  vast  majority  are  included  among  the  workers 
in  various  lines.  Among  this  majority,  there  is  not  one  individual 
who  will  not  be  directly  affected  by  the  growth  of  a  rural  popu- 
lation in  surrounding  neighborhoods  now  sparsely  peopled,  nota- 
bly the  San  Fernando  Valley  on  the  north  and  the  great  areas 
of  fertile  soil  between  the  city  and  the  sea. 

To  begin  with,  an  army  of  labor  will  be  needed  to  provide 
means  for  the  distribution  of  water  to  thousands  of  little  home- 
steads which  are  to  be.  This  work  will  be  carried  on  over  a 
series  of  years  and  the  expenditure  for  labor  and  material  will 
amount  to  many  millions,  all  of  which  is  in  addition  to  the  city's 
great  outlay  on  the  major  project.    Doubtless  the  most  approved 


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OWENS  RIVER  PROJECT  447 

methods  will  be  used  in  distributing  water  for  irrigation.  Every 
safeguard  will  be  provided  against  the  loss  of  the  precious  supply 
by  seepage  and  evaporation.  This  will  be  costly,  but  so  much  the 
better  for  the  community.  It  means  a  wider  distribution  of 
money  in  all  channels  while  the  work  is  going  on,  and  it  means 
a  higher  degree  of  prosperity  for  those  who  are  to  live  on  the 
land  to  the  latest  generation.  In  a  locality  densely  settled,  where 
land  values  are  high,  the  best  drainage  facilities  must  also  be 
provided — more  money,  more  labor,  more  prosperity  for  all,  now 
and  hereafter.     But  this  is  merely  the  foundation. 

There  must  be  a  constant  extension  of  highways,  equipped 


WESTLAKB  PARK  Photo  by  C,  C.  PUrce  tf  Co. 

with  electric  railroads.  There  must  be  thousands  of  private 
houses  and  many  public  buildings,  such  as  schools,  churches,  li- 
braries, postoffices,  and  auditoriums.  And  all  these  buildings 
must  be  furnished  and  prepared  for  habitation  down  to  the  last 
detail.  When  this  has  been  accomplished,  it  is  only  the  beginning 
of  the  permanent  prosperity  which  will  flow  to  the  commercial 
and  industrial  establishments  of  the  great  town.  For  the  thou- 
sands who  come  to  live  upon  the  reclaimed  lands  will  be  both 
producers  and  consumers.  They  will  cater  to  the  wants  of  the 
present  population,  as  the  present  population  will  cater  to  them. 
Many  millions  of  new  wf^alth  will  be  annually  produced  from 


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OWENS  RIVER  PROJECT  449 

soil  now  only  useful  in  yielding  light  crops  of  grain,  and  these 
millions  will  be  almost  exclusively  applied  to  the  sustenance  and 
expansion  of  the  city  and  its  immediately  surrounding  country. 

The  effect  of  this  development  on  the  manifold  activities  of 
Los  Angeles  is  so  palpable  that  it  need  not  be  dwelt  upon.  In  a 
word,  it  means  that  the  City  of  the  Angels  will  maintain  its 
present  position  and  enhance  it  enormously  without  very  much 
regard  to  what  may  happen  north  of  Tehachepi  or  east  of  San 
Gorgonio.  In  an  economic  sense,  it  will  be  sufficient  unto  itself, 
and  this  in  a  degree  which  would  be  utterly  impossible  without 
the  blessing  of  Owens  River. 

One  could  dwell  upon  this  thought  indefinitely — could  call  the 
roll  of  the  rich  but  vacant  neighborhoods  surrounding  scores  of 
towns  and  villages  in  Los  Angeles  county,  where  severe  limita- 
tions are  set  upon  growth  and  the  common  prosperity  by  lack  of 
water.  But  for  the  present  purpose  it  is  enough  merely  to  sug- 
gest the  possibilities  which  even  the  most  painstaking  study 
could  hardly  set  forth  in  all  their  amplitude.  The  great  fact  is 
that  Los  Angeles  has  found  a  way  to  put  a  substantial  founda- 
tion beneath  the  somewhat  intangible  superstructure  which  it  has 
erected  upon  scenery,  climate,  and  social  advantages  arising  from 
the  presence  of  great  numbers  of  enterprising  and  cultivated  peo- 
ple drawn  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  prospect  is 
wonderful  indeed,  but — by  how  narrow  a  margin  was  disaster 
escaped !  Never  did  a  city  turn  defeat  into  victory  by  a  more 
daring  and  dramatic  stroke  than  does  Los  Angeles  in  bringing 
Owens  River  to  its  doors.  Literally,  it  plucks  the  flower  Safety 
from  the  nettle  Danger. 

Not  only  had  the  city  and  its  surrounding  country  exhausted 
all  the  surface  streams,  but  it  had  begun  to  draw  upon  the  gravel 
beds  and  had  the  gravest  reason  to  fear  the  gradual  failing  of  that 
source  of  supply.  This  condition  was  not  merely  local,  but  gen- 
eral throughout  Southern  California.  At  Pomona  the  water 
plane  has  fallen  over  one  hundred  feet.  At  San  Bernardino,  wells 
that  were  flowing  two  years  ago  now  show  a  depth  of  fifty  feet 
or  more  to  water.  The  greatest  body  of  underground  water  in 
Southern  California  is  between  Santa  Ana  and  Compton;  and 
even  there  the^  water  plane  has  fallen  over  thirty  feet  in  some 
places  within  four  years.  Other  localities  could  be  named  where 
conditions  are  even  more  startling. 

To  the  comparatively  few  who  knew  and  understood  the  full 
significance  of  the  situation,  not  only  did  progress  seem  impossi- 
ble, but  actual  retrogression,  with  consequences  that  it  would  be 
difficult  and  certainly  painful  to  imagine,  appeared  to  obscure  the 
prospect.     Such  was  the  alarming  situation  which  Los  Angele^^^ 


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450  OUT    IVEST 

reversed,  both  for  itself  and  its  surrounding  territory,  when  it 
turned  to  the  high  Sierras  to  obtain  a  great  water  supply.  If  it 
were  not  a  case  of  life  or  death,  it  was  at  least  a  case  of  bound- 
less growth  or  certain  stagnation.  No  one  who  knows  the  people 
of  Los  Angeles  could  doubt  the  choice  they  would  make  under 
such  circumstances. 

Now,  let  us  briefly  consider  the  more  purely  social  significance 
of  this  bold  undertaking.  The  engineers  tell  us  that  they  will 
not  only  have  water  for  a  city  of  a  million  people,  but  water  suffi- 
cient to  bring  surrounding  areas  of  fertile  soil  to  the  highest 
stage  of  production.  Mr.  Mulholland's  estimate  of  one  hundred 
thousand  acres  is  considered  conservative. 

It  is  safe  to  assume  that  the  irrigated  lands  will  be  divided,  a 
few  years  hence,  into  very  small  units.  This  will  be  so,  because 
the  land  must  inevitably  have  extraordinary  value,  arising  from 
the  adequacy  of  the  water  supply,  the  proximity  of  a  great  city, 
the  favorable  climatic  conditions,  and  the  high  social  advantages 
which  will  be  realized.  The  history  of  Southern  California  fur- 
nishes abundant  proof  of  the  fact  that  climate  and  society  have 
commercial  value  which  is  promptly  reflected  in  the  price  of  real 
estate.  And  the  history  of  every  country  shows  that  the  prox- 
imity of  productive  land  to  a  great  market  also  enhances  values. 
Does  anyone  doubt  that  many  an  acre  of  irrigated  soil  thus  sit- 
uated will  earn  five  hundred  dollars  net  every  year  upon  the 
average?  That  is  good  interest  on  ten  thousand  dollars.  It  is  at 
least  certain  that  land  will  be  valuable  enough  to  compel  the 
choice  of  a  small  farm  unit  on  the  part  of  many  who  occupy  it. 

What  will  they  do  with  it?  How  would  the  distinguished 
engineer  already  quoted  make  a  living  for  himself  and  family 
on  one  acre  at  Hollywood?  Certainly  not  by  raising  grass  or 
grain.  That  branch  of  agriculture  must  be  left  to  those  em- 
ploying cheaper  land  and  water  and  cultivating  broad  acres. 
Nor  would  he  dare  to  stake  the  fortunes  of  his  family  upon  a 
single  acre  devoted  to  fruit,  even  of  the  citrus  varieties.  The 
strong  tendency  on  the  smallest  irrigated  areas  is  to  engage 
in  the  most  intense  forms  of  cultivation,  so  that  each  square 
foot  may  be  made  to  yield  its  tribute  in  the  form  of  food,  or 
cash,  or  both.  The  man  who  lived  for  thirty  years  on  a  single 
acre  in  the  Sacramento  Valley  died  famous  and  well-to-do.  He 
raised  a  wide  variety  of  vegetables  and  small  fruit,  together  with 
many  carefully  selected  fruit  trees,  and  kept  considerable  poul- 
try. He  made  money  every  year  and  loaned  it  to  neighbors  who 
were  having  a  losing  fight  on  ten  thousand-acre  ranches.  There 
is  a  man  in  Pasadena  who  realizes  twelve  hundred  dollars  a  year 
from  an  acre  of  strawberries  which  he  sells  at  the  local  fruit 
stands, 


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SUMMIT  OF   MAMMOTH  CREST 


It  is  conceivable  that  there  might  be  an  overproduction  of 
small  fruits  and  vegetables,  but  will  there  ever  be  an  overpro- 
duction of  three  square  meals  a  day?  And  is  there  really  any 
doubt  that  industrious  families  who  want  to  collect  their  living 
straight  from  the  soil  can  do  so  where  all  conditions  conspire  to 
favor  their  effort  as  they  will  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
r.os  Angeles  when  the  melted  snows  of  the  Sierras  shall  moisten 
the  land?  There  can  be  no  reasonable  doubt  concerning  that 
proposition.  Families  can  reap  a  generous  living  from  very  small 
irrigated  areas  and  have  something  to  sell  for  cash.  It  is  entirely 
possible  that  a  higher  organization  of  industry  will  be  required 
to  permit  them  to  realize  the  best  standard  of  living,  and  it  is 
possible  that  some  of  the  agencies  which  now  compel  the  farmer 
to  divide  the  profits  of  his  labor  will  have  to  be  readjusted  or 
abolished.  But  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  mother  earth  will  do 
her  part  to  sustain  a  mass  of  people  in  a  condition  of  enduring 
prosperity. 

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OWENS  RIVER  PROJECT  453 

These  people  will  live  in  the  midst  of  the  most  ideal  social  con- 
ditions which  the  world  has  seen.  From  the  mountains  to  the 
sea,  the  land  will  be  like  one  great  garden,  filled  with  beautiful 
homes.  The  fortunate  inhabitants  will  be  of  the  country,  yet  of 
the  town.  They  will  enjoy  the  independence  of  the  one,  the 
neighborly  association  of  the  other.  A  few  minutes'  ride  on  the 
electric  car  will  take  them  to  the  great  school,  the  great  church, 
the  great  theater,  the  great  advantages  of  every  sort,  yet  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood  of  their  own  dwelling  they  will  find 
the  material  for  the  quieter  forms  of  social  enjoyment  which 
come  closer  to  the  heart. 

No  one  could   pursue   this   fascinating  aspect  of  the  subject 


MAMMOTH   LAKB 


without  exposing  himself  to  criticism  as  a  painter  of  rosy  pict- 
ures. Those  who  lack  imagination  to  behold  the  picture  with 
their  own  eyes  will  scarcely  credit  it  when  seen  through  the 
vision  of  another,  while  those  possessing  imagination  will  re- 
quire no  assistance  in  comprehending  the  true  social  significance 
of  the  Owens  River  development.  In  the  writer's  opinion,  it  is 
this  feature  of  the  vast  enterprise  which  will  challenge  the 
world's  attention  most  surely  and  fix  it  most  intensely  and  en- 
duringly.  For  material  prosperity  changes  or  passes,  but  social 
good  survives.  And  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Los  Angeles  will  supply  the  highest  refinement  which 
has  ever  come  to  the  life  of  the  common  man. 

San  Diesro 


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454 

THE  RECLAMATION  SERVICE  AND 
THE  OWENS  VALLEY 

By  F.  H,  NEWELL,  CHIEF  ENGINEER 

NDER  the  Reclamation  Act  of  June  17,  1905,  sur- 
I     veys  and  examinations  were  begun  in  California 
to  discover  feasible  opportunities  for  reclamation 
projects.     There  was  already  at  the  disposal  of 
the  Reclamation  Service  the  knowledge  and  ex- 
perience of  Mr.  J.  B.  Lippincott,  supervising  en- 
r  for  California.     He  had  for  many  years  previously 
the  hydrographer  for  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey 
lad  acquired  a  large  amount  of  detailed  and  general 
mation  concerning  the  water  resources  of  the  State. 
One  of  the  localities  to  which  attention  was  given  was 
the  Owens  Valley.     This,  being  remote  from  ordinary  lines  of 
travel,  was  a  country  concerning  which  there  was    very    little 
definite  information.     It  was   impossible  to  form  any  accurate 
conception  of  the  water  supply,  or  to  consider  the  relative  merits 
of  this  locality  as  against  other  and  better  known  parts  of  the 
State.     As  soon  as  it  appeared  that  some  other  and  apparently 


CLAUSHN   OF  THE  RBCLAMATION   SBRVICB      AT   HOME,"   IN   THB  OWBNS  VALLBY 


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RECLAMATION  SERVICE  IN  OWENS  VALLEY     455 

more  promising  localities  were  too  much  involved  by  legal  com- 
plications, work  was  begun  in  Owens  Valley.  Systematic  river 
measurements  were  initiated  and  surveys  made  of  reservoir  sites 
and  of  irrigable  lands.  When  it  was  known  that  the  Reclamation 
Service  had  under  consideration  a  project  in  this  valley,  there 
followed,  as  a  matter  of  course,  a  rapid  development  of  specu- 
lative interest,  and  attention  was  drawn  to  opportunities  which 
might  exist  for  investment  by  private  capital.  This  invariably 
follows  any  survey  made  by  the  Reclamation  Service,  and  al- 
though at  all  times  the  public  and  individuals  are  warned  that 
these  examinations  are   merely  preliminary  and   may  result  in 


OWBN8   RIVRR    GAOINO  STATION 


condemning  the  project,  yet  the  optimism  of  the  promoter  leads 
him  to  hope  for  the  best  and  make  corresponding  recommenda- 
tions to  his  principals.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  convince  such 
a  man  that  it  is  necessary  to  find  out  all  of  the  unfavorable  condi- 
tions as  well  as  the  favorable. 

At  the  same  time  that  investigations  were  being  made  in 
Owens  Valley  similar  surveys  were  being  conducted  in  other 
parts  of  the  State,  with  the  hope  of  taking  up  for  construction  as 
soon  as  possible  the  work  which  seemed  to  offer  the  least  diffi- 
culty and  the  greatest  benefit.  In  June,  1905,  it  became  apparent 
that  choice  must  soon  be  made  between  various  projects,  and  a 


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456  OUT    WEST 


TWIN    LAKES 


hoard  of  engineers,  as  is  usual  in  such  cases,  was  instructed  to  go 
over  the  engineering  data  and  make  recommendations.  This 
hoard  considered  the  situation  in  California,  called  attention  to 
the  vested  rights  already  existing  in  the  Owens  Valley,  also  the 
proposed  power  developments  and  the  purchases  made  by  the 
city  of  Los  Angeles  with  the  intent  of  developing,  if  possible,  a 
source  of  water  supply.  A  recommendation  was  therefore  made 
to  the  effect  that  no  further  expenditure  be  irrcurred  on  surveys 
until  the  legal  status  of  various  rights  could  be  determined  and 
the  plans  of  various  conflicting  interests,  particularly  those  of  the 
city  of  Los  Angeles,  could  be  ascertained.  In  short,  the  project, 
though  presenting  many  favorable  features,  was  not  such  as  to 
justify  continuing  to  spend  money,  especially  in  view  of  the  fact 
that  the  funds  immediately  available  may  be  needed  for  other 
projects  more  favorably  situated  in  the  State. 

The  status,  therefore,  is  that  the  Owens  Valley  project,  as  far 

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RECLAMATION  SERVICE  IN  OWENS  VALLEY     457 


LAKR   MARY 


as  surveys  are  concerned,  is  being  held  in  abeyance  for  further 
consideration.  Inquiries  are  being  directed  toward  the  legal  as- 
pect of  the  case  and  the  Government  is  holding  its  present  rights. 
It  is  impossible  to  predict  what  action  will  be  taken  until  a  more 
complete  knowledge  is  had  of  the  complications  of  land  owner- 
ship and  of  existing  claims  to  water.  These  are  matters  which 
in  their  finality  must  be  dealt  with  by  other  branches  of  the  Gov- 
ernment than  the  Reclamation  Service,  and  which  must  finally  be 
passed  upon  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior.  In  such  matters 
the  Reclamation  Service  is  simply  the  organization  by  which  the 
Secretary  gathers  a  knowledge  of  engineering  or  physical  facts. 

Washinfftoii,  D.  C. 


As  might  be  inferred  from  the  above  statement,  it  is  within 
the  power  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  to  block  the  City  of 
Los  Angeles  by  refusing  to  consent  to  right  of  way  across  forest 
reserves  and  other  government  land.  Some  of  the  reasons  which 
should  be  considered  against  such  action  are  given  below. 

In  1880  the  population  of  the  County  of  Los  Angeles  was 
33*381  souls.  In  1905  it  is  approximately  375,000,  with  reduced 
boundaries.    This  rapid  development  is  due  to  the  energy  of  its 


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458  OUT    WEST 

people,  coupled  with  remarkable  climatic  and  topographical 
conditions.  During  this  period  of  time  the  City  of  Los  Angeles 
has  been  transformed  from  a  remote  agricultural  district,  using 
the  waters  of  the  Los  Angeles  River  for  irrigation  purposes,  into 
a  prosperous  town  of  200,000,  now  consuming  the  entire  flow  of 
the  river  for  domestic  purposes.  Where  else  can  such  rapid  de- 
velopment be  shown? 

During  the  year  1904,  5,145  new  water  connections  were  made 
by  the  Water  Works,  representing  a  growth  during  that  year  of 
probably  25,000  people.     The  assessed  valuation  of  the  country 


GRAIN  IN  THB  OWENS  VALLBY 


is  now  approximately  $235,000,000,  and  the  revenue  derived  from 
the  sale  of  an  inch  of  water  for  domestic  purposes  amount  to 
fully  $500  per  annum.  It  is  assumed  that  a  municipal  domestic 
consumption  of  water  is  the  highest  use  to  which  that  water 
can  be  put.  This  is  so  recognized  by  the  courts,  and  the  law  of 
eminent  domain  can  be  applied  for  this  purpose. 

For  horticultural  purposes  in  this  neighborhood,  the  selling 
price  of  an  inch  of  water  is  fully  $2,000.  A  miners'  inch  of  water 
is  equal  to  one-fiftieth  of  a  cubic  foot  per  second,  or  13,000  gal- 
lons per  day.    At  Corona,  near  Los  Angeles,  600  miners'  inches 


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RECLAMATION  SERVICE  IN  OWENS  VALLEY     459 

of  water  this  season  served  4,000  acres  of  citrus  trees,  a  large 
portion  of  which  were  not  matured  trees,  and  produced  a  crop 
worth  $1,500,000  on  the  Eastern  market,  or  at  the  rate  of  $2,500 
per  miners'  inch  for  the  season.  The  yield  will  largely  increase 
with  the  age  of  the  trees.  Similar  results  are  produced  in  other 
neighboring  places.  This  amount  of  money  is  distributed  be- 
tween the  growers,  the  pickers,  the  packers,  box-makers,  com- 
mission merchants  and  railroad  companies. 

Owens  Valley  is  situated  in  Inyo  County,  California,  and  is 
a  small  but  important  portion  of  that  county.  The  total  popula- 
tion of  the  county  in  1880  was  2,928.    In  1900  it  was  4,377.    The 


A  SPECIMEN   OF  WASTE  OP  WATER  IN   THE  OWENS   VALLEY 

assessed  valuation  of  the  entire  county  at  the  last  assessment 
was  $2,600,000.  An  inch  of  water  is  worth,  in  Owens  Valley,  ap- 
proximately $20  when  sold  outright. 

The  Valley  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  lofty  range  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  which  is  practically  impassable,  and  on  the 
east  by  a  desert.  The  water  supply  is  derived  from  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  flowing  through  the  Owens  River 
into  the  Owens  Lake,  which  is  a  salt  lake  without  outlet,  where 
the  waters  not  used  for  irrigation  are  evaporated. 

The  Valley  is  at  an  elevation  of  over  4,000  feet ;  it  is  cold  and 
the  growing  season  lasts  from  the  first  of  May  to  the  end  of 


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460  OUT    WEST 

September.     It  is  impossible  to  grow  citrus  fruits  in  this  region, 
and  little  else  is  produced  than  forage  crops. 

The  depth  of  water,  as  applied  annually  for  the  growth  of  a 
crop  of  alfalfa,  is  from  seven  to  nine  feet.  One  and  one-half 
miners'  inches  of  water  are  used  to  the  acre.  Three  crops  of 
alfalfa  are  cut  each  year,  amounting  to  about  six  tons  to  the  acre, 
or  four  tons  to  the  miners'  inch.  At  the  high  price  of  $10.00 
this  represents  a  value  of  $40.00,  as  the  result  of  the  use  of  an 
inch  of  water  one  year  in  that  section.  This  hay  is  used  mostly 
in  feeding  live  stock  in  the  Valley  itself.  Because  of  the  remote 
position  of  the  county,  very  little  produce  is  shipped  out. 

The  total  irrigated  area  in  the  Owens  Valley  is  probably  from 
30,000  to  40,000  acres.  By  the  regulation  of  the  stream  flow 
through  storage  reservoirs,  by  an  adjustment  of  the  rival  claims 
of  a  dozen  canals,  and  by  the  limitation  of  the  present  wasteful 
methods  of  using  water,  this  irrigated  area  could  possibly  be  ex- 
tended from  60,000  to  80,000  acres  additional  to  that  now  served. 

In  and  around  the  City  of  Los  Angeles  the  condition,  with  ref- 
erence to  the  water  supply,  is  distressing.  The  Los  Angeles 
River  is  flowing  about  2,000  miners'  inches  or  40  cubic  feet  per 
second.  The  summer  consumption  of  the  city  is  about  80  cubic 
feet  per  second.  The  additional  amount  required  is  obtained  by 
pumping  from  underground  water  supplies.  These  water  sup- 
plies are  failing.  The  records  of  the  Hydrographic  Branch  of  the 
Geological  Survey  clearly  and  officially  show  this  condition  of 
affairs.  It  has  been  a  subject  of  investigation  and  study  for  some 
four  or  five  years,  and  confirmation  of  these  statements  is  easily 
obtained. 

The  City  of  Pasadena,  which  immediately  adjoins  Los  Angeles, 
is  in  a  worse  condition  than  the  City  of  Los  Angeles.  Only  by 
sinking  wells  deeper  each  year  and  running  tunnels  further  into 
the  gravel  beds  is  the  domestic  water  supply  sustained.  Orchards 
in  this  vicinity,  which  previously  have  been  thrifty,  are  fre- 
quently  abandoned. 

The  town  of  Hollywood,  adjoining  the  City  of  Los  Angeles 
on  the  west,  is  in  still  worse  condition.  It  is  only  by  suflfrance 
on  the  part  of  the  City  of  Los  Angeles  that  Hollywood  is  ob- 
taining water  for  domestic  purposes. 

If  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  desires  to  prevent  the  City  of 
Los  Angeles  from  bringing  any  water  to  this  locality  he  can 
do  so  by  refusing  to  grant  right  of  way  applications  over  the 
public  lands  and  through  the  forest  reserves.  It  will,  however, 
be  well  to  consider  carefully  the  fact  that  such  an  action  would 
probably  result,  not  only  in  checking  a  prosperous  and  rapid 


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RECLAMATION  SERVICE  IN  OWENS  VALLEY     461 

growth  of  Southern  California  communities,  l)ut  would  possibly 
lead  to  their  absolute  retrogression. 

The  people  of  Los  Angeles,  by  a  vote  of  14  to  i,  supported  by 
every  commercial  organization,  have  decided  to  undertake  the 
construction  of  this  monumental  piece  of  work,  at  an  estimated 
cost  almost  as  great  as  the  entire  reclamation  fund,  doing  the 
work  as  a  public  work  and  creating  greater  benefits  than  could 
be  accomplished  by  the  utilization  of  that  water  in  Owens  Val- 
ley. 

The  City  of  Los  Angeles  is  willing  to  pay  fairly  and  even 


AN  OWBNS  VALLBV  SCBNB 


generously  for  all  that  it  obtains  in  the  Owens  Valley,  but  it  is 
not  willing  to  purchase  dry  and  unproductive  lands  that  are  ap- 
parently being  held  for  speculative  purposes  by  those  who  were 
hoping  for  the  construction  of  a  Government  Project  in  the 
Owens  Valley.  The  City  must  go  to  Inyo  County  courts  and 
juries  in  any  condemnation  it  attempts,  consequently  the  rights 
of  that  locality  will  be  amply  protected. 

Los  Anireles 


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463 
•'WATER  OUT  or  THE  ROCR'* 

By  GRACE  ELLERY  CHANNING 

((>^UNNING  water,"  said  Swedenborg,  "is  the  symbol  of 
J/^  living  Truth."  ''Water,"  says  a  modern  writer,  "is 
the  living  joy  of  Rome." 

No  other  city  in  the  world  boasts  such  a  water  supply;  and 
who  thinks  of  Rome  thinks  at  once  of  two  things  binding  to- 
gether her  Past  and  Present — the  fountains  which  are  her  present 
charm  and  the  aqueducts  which  were  the  glory  of  her  Past. 

Rome  was  not  born  a  water-city  ready-made.  It  has  been 
truly  said,  the  three  things  which  prove  the  greatness  of  the 
early  Romans  are  their  paved  roads,  their  aqueducts  and  their 
great  sewers.  Rome  was  an  almost  arid  city  to  begin  with,  re- 
lying upon  the  Tiber,  that  "mud-puddle  in  strenuous  motion,'' 
as  Hawthorne  justly  describes  it,  for  her  water-supply,  and  upon 
certain  cisterns,  probably  of  rain-water,  and  such  venerated 
springs  as  that  of  the  Muses  in  the  grove  outside  the  Porta 
Capena  beneath  the  Coelian  hill.  Such  as  it  was,  her  very  in- 
sufficient water-supply  rose  at  periods  and  flooded  her,  precisely 
iS  if  it  had  been  a  Western  torrent,  so  that  you  may  still  see 
the  records  high  up  on  the  facades  of  ancient  churches.  For 
400  years  after  the  founding  of  the  city  she  got  along  in  this 
uncomfortable  fashion,  never  having  enough  water,  but  fre- 
quently having  too  much. 

Four  hundred  years  later,  nine  great  bodies  of  water  were 
pouring  into  Rome  through  nine  great  aqueducts.  Still  later, 
this  number  rose  to  nineteen.  The  total  length  of  the  channels 
of  the  original  nine  was  upwards  of  285  Roman  miles,  of  which 
242  were  cut  beneath  the  surface,  and  forty-three  carried  on 
substructure  above  the  ground.  The  height  of  level  (with  one 
solitary  and  relatively  insignificant  exception)  increased  with 
each  new  aqueduct.  In  other  words,  the  equivalent  of  a  stream 
twenty  feet  wide  by  six  feet  deep,  with  a  fall  six  times  as  rapid 
as  the  river  Thames,  poured  daily  into  Rome,  between  the  times 
of  Trajan  and  Aurelian,  a  supply  estimated  at  332,306,624  gal- 
lons— 332  gallons  per  diem  for  every  soul  in  a  city  of  1,000,000. 
In  our  days,  we  are  told,  forty  gallons  is  esteemed  "sufficient  or 
excessive,"  "including  the  use  of  waters  in  manufactures,  etc." 
This  abundance  of  water,  together  with  her  excellent  drainage, 
rendered  Rome,  in  spite  of  her  crowded  population  and  an  un- 
healthful  neighborhood,  one  of  the  cities  freest  from  the  scourge 
of  epidemic  diseases  of  her  times. 

This  article  appeared  in  Out  Wbst  for  October,  1903,  as  part  of  the  series  **  What  We  Can 
Learn  from  Rome.**  It  is  reprinted  for  <ts  peculiar  appropriateness  in  connection 
with  a  treatment  of  the  plan  for  brinirinff  to  Los  Angeles  as  much  water  as  Rome  ever 
had,  and  from  much  further  away.— Eds. 


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WATER  our  OF  THE  ROCK"  465 


Not  merely  was  water  abundant,  but  they  went  a  long  way  to 
get  it.  The  Aqua  Marcia,  famous  to  this  day  for  its  purity 
and  coolness,  bubbling  up  from  a  beautiful  spring  in  the  mount- 
ains, not  far  from  Subiaco,  rushes  sixty-five  miles  through  chan- 
nel and  aqueduct  into  the  heart  of  Rome;  and  today — brought 
again  into  the  city  by  an  Anglo-Roman  Company  in  1872 — this 
famous  water  supplies  cisterns  at  the  tops  of  houses  on  the  high 
hills.  Classical  writers  dilated  upon  its  qualities ;  Shakespeare 
himself  makes  Brutus  mention  it  in  *'Coriolanus,"  notwith- 
standing the  small  anarchronism  involved,  seeing  that  the  aque- 
duct was  not  constructed  until  300  years  after  Rrutus's  death. 
It  is  still  accounted  the  purest  water  in  Rome.  At  its  source  it 
is  said  to  be  so  cool  that  a  glass  of  water  plunged  into  it  on  a 
warm  day  shivers  into  fragments,  as  a  glass  will  do  in  winter  if 
boiling  water  be  poured  into  it.  It  is  sold  on  the  street  in  bot- 
tles during  the  summer,  and  even  when  Rome  is  sweltering  in 
heat,  water  run  from  the  Aqua  Marcia  pipes,  notwithstanding 
the  heated  metal  in  which  it  completes  its  passage,  fills  a  goblet 
with  a  draught  which  it  is  difficult  to  believe  has  come  uncooled 
to  the  lips  across  sixty  miles  of  blazing  Campagna.  The  utmost 
care  was  taken  to  protect  the  water  in  its  passage  that  it  might 
not  be  heated  on  the  long  journey ;  so  also  the  greatest  pains  were 
taken  to  preserve  the  purest  water  for  drinking  solely,  while  the 
less  sweet  and  delicate  streams  served  for  watering  the  great 
gardens,  and  supplying  the  107  gratuitous  baths  of  Rome,  the 

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466  OUT    WEST 

Emperor's  palace  and  the  Pretorian  camps.  At  the  time  o\ 
Trajan  and  Hadrian  a  great  deal  of  work  was  done  to  perfect 
the  water-system  of  Rome,  and  the  amazement  of  the  people  is 
recorded  at  seeing  copious  streams  pouring  over  the  arid  heights 
of  the  Aventine.  Centuries  later,  Pope  Paul  brought  the  same 
miracle  to  pass  on  the  Janiculum,  in  the  floods  of  the  "Aqua 
Paolo,"  which  to  this  day  supply  all  Trastevere.  Much  such 
an  amazement  would  seize  the  inhabitants  of  Los  Angeles  if 
limitless  fountains  suddenly  burst  forth  on  her  highest  and  dry- 
est  hills. 

Having  gotten  their  water,  they  took  care  of  it.     It  had  not 


A  MODERN   AQUEDUCT 

the  benefit  of  belonging  to  a  "Water  Company."  Today  the 
Aqua  Marcia  is  more  or  less  in  trouble  on  that  very  account,  to 
judge  from  paragraphs  in  the  papers,  taking  the  mind  back  to 
California  with  a  very  homesick  feeling. 

Seven  hundred  men  under  Frontinus  (from  whom  we  derive 
all  our  information,  and  who  acted  as  "Superintendent  of 
Water-works"  in  his  day)  were  employed  to  keep  the  filtering 
places  and  channels  in  proper  repair.  It  is  interesting — and 
suggestive — to  know  that  of  the  700  employes  the  Emperor  paid 
for  460,  the  State  for  240. 

Everyone  knows  how  marvelously  these  water-ways  were 
built ;  how  in  channels,  five  Roman  feet  high,  and  two  and  a  half 
feet  broad,  with  walls  a  foot  thick  and  roofs  thicker  still,  the 


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"WATER  OUT  OF  THE  ROCK''  467 

water  was  carried  over  rough  bottoms — to  agitate  and  aerate, 
round  bends  at  every  half-mile — to  break  the  force  of  the  cur- 
rent, through  filtering  chambers  ingeniously  simple,  by  ventilat- 
ing shafts,  into  reservoirs  (whence  branches  bore  it  all  over 
the  thirsty  Campagna,  then  a  garden,  now  a  desert)  to  burst  at 
last  into  garden,  home  and  fountain,  in  the  torrents  of  the  Trevi 
or  the  gentle  plash  of  the  Barchetta,  so  that  at  all  times  the 
air  of  Rome  is  '*quite  full  of  the  sound  of  falling  water."  A 
blest  boon,  this,  indeed,  for  an  inland  city.  Nothing,  when  all 
is  said,  atones  for  the  lack  of  water  in  a  landscape  save  its  arti- 
ficial presence. 


ACRO.SS  THB  CAMPAGNA '* 

No  one  knows  the  true  value  of  "water — the  greatest  thing 
m  the  world" — who  has  not  lived  in  and  loved  an  arid  land.  To 
one  whose  home  is  in  our  Southwest,  where  a  "dry  season" 
really  means  what  it  calls  itself,  and  the  very  river  is  named 
''Seco" — who  has  known  the  jealous  treasuring  of  little  pools 
for  thirsty  roses,  where  every  drop  of  water  takes  on  something 
the  value  of  a  lesser  gem,  and  watched  impatient  for  that  nig- 
gard "two  hours"  bath-time  of  the  lawns  and  bushes  every 
day,  there  is  something  intoxicating  in  the  incessant,  opulent, 
imperial  abundance  of  water  in  Rome,  to  which  the  shallow 
Tiber  has  nothing  to  say.  "Surely  they  will  cut  oflf  the  foun- 
tains," we  say,  as  rainless  month  succeeds  to  rainless  month" — 
"surely  the  supply  will  be  exhausted — the  Zanjero  will  be  upon 
us  with  his  warnings ;"  but  the  children  splash  in  it,  the  piazzas 


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'WATER  our  OF  THE  ROCK"  469 

are  wet  with  it,  and  the  supply  never  fails.  1  have  not  envied 
Victor  Emmanuel  III  nor  the  Pope,  but  I  have  mightily  envied 
all  summer  long  the  man  whose  mission  it  is  twice  a  day  to  fift 
up  all  the  little  square  doors  in  the  pavement,  fasten  his  wheleed 
hose  thereto,  and  make  a  significance  of  rain  all  over  the  hot 
stones,  using  his  liberal  discretion  as  to  pools  for  the  cab-horses 
to  stand  in  and  temporary  ponds  for  the  barefoot  brown  toes  of 
children  to  riot  in. 

Nor  could  a  Californian  but  be  made  thoughtful  by  all  this. 
We  have  already  the  climate  of  Rome  and  her  natural  beauty — 
an  improved  edition  of  both ;  we  have  her  trees  and  flowers,  her 
kindly  sea-breeze  and  her  bracing  mountain  airs;  we  have  even 
an  insufficient  river  of  our  own,  which  yet  I  have  seen  rise, 
Tiber-like,  and  sweep  away  house,  tree  and  bridge — nay,  the 
very  stream   called  "Dry"  ran  off  with   a  postoffice  in   a   time 


TO  FILL  BRONZB  JAR  OR  FIASCO* 


that  is  hardly  past  history ;  and  have  we  not  in  our  Sierras,  to 
which  the  Sabines  are  but  foothills,  our  glacial  lakes,  our  rocky 
springs? — above  all,  have  we  not  our  engineers?  Cannot  a  free 
people  do  what  an  enslaved  one  did?  Is  a  Republic  less  omni- 
potent for  good  than  an  Empire?  Have  we  not  already  made 
our  far-away  water  into  near-at-hand  electricity,  and  cannot  wc 
compel  the  water  itself?  With  water.  Southern  California  would 
be  unapproachable — the  noblest  southern  country  given  to  man. 
This  makes  the  poetry  of  Rome,  this  gives  life  and  charm  to 
every  bare  piazza  and  narrow  alley,  for  as  if  this  loveliest  ele- 
ment must  work  itself  out  in  beauty,  it  flowers  here  in  a  thou- 
sand beautiful  forms,  not  only  in  the  broad  squares  where  sculpt- 
ured figures  pour  it  forth  into  great  basins,  or  throw  it  high 
into  the  air,  but  from  every  street-corner  where  some  quaint 
head  thrusts  forth  from  a  gray  wall.     Here  it  is  a  faun  who 

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470  OUT    WEST 

fills  a  barrel,  and  there  a  mischievous  sprite  blows  it  out  from 
his  puffed  cheeks,  and  in  every  court-yard,  as  you  pass  the 
wide  portone,  some  basin  or  cascade  greets  the  eye  and  ear, 
cooling,  refreshing  and  delighting  all  together.  None  can  doubt 
how  much  water  has  to  do  with  the  health  and  moral  health  of 
Rome ;  the  children  play,  the  elders  loiter,  everyone  comes  to 
fill  his  bronze  jar  or  glass  fiasco,  and  undergoes,  all  unawares, 
the  subtle  influence.  In  the  time  of  Agrippa  there  were  700 
reservoirs,  large  and  mall,  down  to  the  household  basin  or 
cistern;  there  were  105  fountains  and  170  gratuitous  baths  in 
Rome.  Today  the  Thermae  are  represented  by  bathing  houses 
on  the  Tiber,  but  the  fountains  seem  to  have  multiplied  them- 
selves endlessly.  Under  Frontinus  it  was  strictly  forbidden  to 
dip   a   dirty   bucket   into   one   of   these   street   fountains,    which 


"flowbring  into  bbautipul  forms" 

then  as  now  made  glad  the  heart  of  Rome,  and  the  hearts  of 
her  poorer  population.  An  equal  care  was  bestowed  in  dis- 
tributing the  overflow  and  in  separating  the  surface  water  from 
the  drainage  in  the  great  Cloaca,  another  glory  of  the  ancient 
time  from  which  we  still  may  learn. 

Second  only,  perhaps  not  even  second  in  the  long  analysis,  to 
this  fundamental  fact  of  water  in  any  shape,  is  the  subtle  in- 
fluence of  these  beautiful  shapes,  culminating  in  the  majestic 
and  august  beauty  of  the  Roman  aqueduct.  Here  one's  heart 
fails;  we  have  invented  the  iron  pipe,  capable  of  sustaining 
torrents.  I  suppose,  if  we  brought  water  from  our  glacial  lakes 
and  snow-fed  streams,  it  would  be  in  iron  pipes  across  bare 
bridges.  Yet  I  take  heart  again;  only  a  small  proportion  of 
the  Roman  water-way  is  overground.  Even  if  we  piped  and 
tunneled  our  Sierras,  might  there  not  be  some  sublime  approach 
by  bridge  and  noble  arch  within  our  city  limits  at  the  least? 

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OLD  TRITON" 


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472  OUT    IVBST 

riie  chief  approach  to  Rome  lay  between  the  magnificent  arcades 
of  the  Marcian  and  Claudian  aqueducts,  not  more  than  a  hun- 
dred yards  apart,  and  through  their  arches,  thirty  feet  high 
on  the  one  hand  and  fifty  on  the  other,  the  wide  Campagna 
stretched  away  to  purple  distances,  to  shadowy  Monte  Cavo  and 
white  Soracte.  Not  less  than  the  power  was  the  beauty.  And 
here  is  a  fact  on  which  the  education  of  the  future  will  more 
and  more  have  to  rest.  We  shall  never  be  really  a  great  people 
until  we  have  learned  to  take  account  of  beauty  as  of  religion. 
Beauty  is  in  itself  a  religious  influence ;  they  who  systematically 
leave  it  out  of  the  account  remain  barbarians,  and  nothing  is 
truly  well  done  which  is  not  beautifully  done  as  well.  The 
time  will  come  when  every  work  of  utility  will  be  a  work  of 
beauty,  like  the  Roman  aqueducts.  This  it  is  which  makes 
the  enduring  charm,  which  causes  something  to  spring  to  the 
eye  and  touch  the  heart  at  sight  of  those  silent  miles  of  arches, 
as  no  other  Roman  ruin,  temple,  or  holy  place  can  do.  You 
cannot  look  upon  them  without  realizing  the  giant  streams  of 
life  and  strength  and  joy  they  bore  to  ancient  Rome.  The 
palaces  were  for  the  Caesars,  the  Churches  were  for  the  purple 
Hierarchy,  the  temples  were  for  the  gods  and  the  trophies  of 
the  conquerors,  the  water  was  for  all,  the  one  copious  blessin^^ 
of  the  wretched  pleb.  And  with  a  ri^rht  significance  the  arches 
of  the  aqueducts  dominated  all  Rome,  "among  the  grandest  and 
most  conspicuous  objects,"  the  most  beautiful  amid  that  world 
of  beautiful  structures,  and  the  most  enduring  also. 

When  one  thinks  what  equal  splendor  might  be  wrought  for 
another  Southland  with  the  blessing  of  water,  one  sighs  for  a 
brief,  beneficent  Caesar.  Next  to  water,  the  West  lacks  archi- 
tecture. If  only  much  water  might  be  combined  with  a  little 
architecture  and  the  useful,  honorable  iron  pipe  flower  into  arch 
and  bridge  and  fountain  (not  of  the  old  forms  but  new  and  as 
noble),  what  an  achievement  were  this!  Who  can  call  that  un- 
economical which  rears  at  a  certain  present  cost  an  object  lesson 
of  beauty  to  last  two  thousand  years — which  plants  an  influ- 
ence of  work  silently  upon  a  race  throughout  the  generations  of 
men?  And  who  can  justly  declare  that  any  work  is  economical 
which  permanently  neglects  this  element  of  the  enduring  beau- 
tiful? 

If  there  is  one  development  of  art  left  for  America  it  must  be 
in  the  line  of  the  beauty  of  the  useful — in  the  ennobling  of  all 
which  serves  the  noble  common  uses  of  life  and  humanity.  This 
is  art  and  work  worthy  a  great  democracy.  Not  palaces  for  any 
Emperor,  but  fair  homes  for  a  free  people;  not  cathedrals  for 
any  hierarchial  priesthood,  but  schools,  colleges,  libraries  for 
the  new  religion  of  humanity,  built  and  adorned  as  the  temples 
and  the  churches  of  an  elder  day;  not  great  gardens  for  any 
prince,  noble,  cardinal  or  millionaire,  but  great  parks  for  a 
whole  people ;  and  among  all  the  thousand  forms  in  which  the 
democracy  will  work  out  this  religion  of  beauty,  what  can  be 
worthier  its  best  endeavors,  better  deserve  its  lavish  care,  than 
that  which  bears  witness  to  the  presence  of  the  life-giving  ele- 
ment, to  flowing  health,  prosperity  and  happiness,  in  short  to 
"water  in  a  thirsty  land." 

Rome,  Italy 


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SUCH   THINGS  A8  THIS  LOS  ANGBLBS   MAY   LBARN    FROM   KOMK 


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474 

SONS  or  THE  SOIL 

By  EUGENE  M,  RHODES 

I  HE  train-load  of  cattle  had  been  duly  delivered  to 


^ 


the  consignees  at  the  Kansas  City  stockyards,  and 
Dallas  was  foot-loose.  Followed  the  purchase  of 
a  ready-made  suit  of  clothes,  a  bath  and  a  shave,  din- 
ner and  a  twenty-hours'  sleep. 

He  arose  refreshed  the  next  morning  at  ten,  all  fa- 
tigue from  his  wearisome  trip  with  the  cattle  cast  aside 
and    forgotten.     After   dinner    he    sallied     forth   and 
boarded  a  street  car. 

Up  Grand  avenue  they  went,  Dallas  wholly  intent  on  viewing  the 
new  town,  and  merely  shaking  his  head  at  the  conductor's  invitation 
to  take  a  transfer.  The  car  became  less  crowded  as  the  long  run 
to  Westport  was  done,  and  at  length  it  stopped  and  the  few  remain- 
ing passengers  got  out. 

The  conductor  approached  the  cowboy  and  said  gruffly : 
''Well,  you'll  have  to  get  out." 

Dallas  put  on  his  most  verdant  air.  "WHiy?"  he  queried,  inno- 
cently. 

'*'Why?'  Because  we  don't  go  any  further,  that's  why,"  explos- 
ively. 

*'0-h-h !"  said  Dallas,  seemingly  much  enlightened.  Then,  as  one 
who  is  grasping  at  a  new  idea,    **But — but,  don't  you  go  back?" 

The  irate  conductor  glared  at  him.  ''Go  back!  Of  course,  we 
go  back !  Do  you  think — "  Here  he  choked  and  an  eloquent  pause 
ensued,  Dallas  looking  in  his  face  with  an  air  of  pleased  expectation 
and  interest,  evidently  awaiting  further  information. 
"But,  you'll  have  to  pay  again,"  he  spluttered  at  last. 
"Oh-h!"  said  Dallas  again.  He  fished  up  his  fare,  and  the  con- 
ductor beat  a  retreat  to  the  front  platform,  where  he  held  a  consulta- 
tion with  the  motorman,  with  many  suspicious  glances  at  the  solitary 
inmate  of  the  car. 

Dallas's  features  relaxed  into  a  confidential  grin. 
Ten  minutes  later,  as  the  conductor  was  hurriedly  taking  fares, 
Dallas  touched  him  on  the  arm.     The  conductor  turned  sharply  on 
him. 

"Well — what  is  it  now  ?"  he  snapped. 

"I  think,"  ventured  Dallas,  timidly,  "I'll  take  one  of  them  things." 
"One  of  them  what?" 

"One  of  them  there,"  and  he  pointed  to  the  gaudy  transfer-slips. 
The  car  was  all  attention  now,  the  passengers  nudging  and  giggling. 
"Where  to?" 
"Huh?"  responded  Dallas,  blankly. 

This  story  is  the  conclusion  of  *'  The  Pesire  of  the  Moth,"  appearing  in  Out    Wbst 
for  October,'1902.  • 


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SONS  OF  THE  SOIL  475 

The  unfortunate  conductor  began  to  exhibit  symptoms  of  strangu- 
lation. 

"Where — do — you — want  a  transfer — to?" 

"O-hl  where  to?     Why,  just  anywheres." 

A  transfer  slip  was  thrust  hurriedly  into  his  hand. 

**Next  street,"  said  the  conductor,  red  in  the  face  with  vexation. 

The  other  passengers  were  boiling  over,  but  Dallas  was  blandly 
unconscious. 

When  he  was  off,  Dallas  let  his  face  relax  again.  **This  Kansas 
City  is  sure  a  real  nice  town,"  he  said  softly  to  himself. 

But  one  other  passenger  got  oflF  with  him — a  well  set-up  and  well 
groomed  young  fellow  with  frank  and  pleasing  features. 

"Going  to  the  ball-game?"  he  inquired. 

Dallas  looked  at  the  smooth,  clear,  fresh  young  face,  aglow  with 
youth  and  health,  and  liked  it — albeit  mentally  contrasting  it  with 
his  own  weather-beaten  countenance.  "No.  I  wasn't  going  any- 
where in  particular." 

"Just  taking  a  rise  out  of  him?"  suggested  the  other,  jerking  his 
thumb  over  his  shoulder  at  the  receding  car. 

Dallas  nodded,  and  this  time  they  both  grinned. 

"Better  come  on,"  continued  the  youth.  "Great  game — Kansas 
City  and  Buffalo." 

"Fd  just  as  lief,"  said  Dallas.  "That  is,  if  you'll  let  me  foot  the 
bills  while  you  explain  the  fine  points  to  me.  I  used  to  play  town 
ball  oncet — in  Dallas — but  I  ain't  onto  this  baseball  much." 

"Just  as  you  say,"  said  the  other.  "I  would  *Alphonse  and  Gas- 
ton' with  you  about  it,  but  the  fact  is,  money  is  low  with  me.  Got 
laid  off  the  other  day,  and  haven't  caught  on  to  a  new  place  yet.  I 
really  ought  not  to  permit  myself  this  indulgence."  And  he  smiled 
ingratiatingly. 

"Eaton  is  my  name,"  he  went  on.     "Jack  Eaton." 

Dallas  extended  his  hand.  "McComas  is  my  name — call  me  Dal- 
las." 

They  went  to  the  park  together,  where  Eaton  was  much  engrossed 
with  the  ball  game,  and  Dallas  with  a  study  of  Eaton.  Kansas  City 
was  getting  the  worst  of  the  game,  and  as  usual  the  "fans"  were 
grossly  abusive  of  the  visiting  team,  and  their  best  plays  were  met 
with  a  stony  silence,  while  any  rally  by  the  home  team  was  greeted 
with  a  storm  of  applause.  But  Dallas  noted  that  Eaton,  with  a 
very  few  others,  cheered  a  good  hit  or  a  difficult  catch  without  refer- 
ence to  which  side  had  made  it ;  and  he  nodded  his  head  in  approval. 
"He'll  do,"  he  said  to  himself.  After  the  game  he  put  his  hand 
on  the  other  man's  shoulder.  "Let's  walk  down  avvays,"  he  said. 
"I've  a  business  proposition  to  make  you." 

When  they  w^re  clear  of  the  crowd,  Dallas  began.     "D'ye  want 


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476  OUT    WEST 

a  situation  as  private  tutor?  'Cause  if  you  do,  here^s  the  lay  for 
you.  I  want  a  little  course  of  manners-while-you-wait.  Something 
neat,  but  not  gaudy.  Just  enough  so's  they  won't  charge  admission 
to  see  me  eat,  as  I  work  my  way  further  into  the  East.  About 
clothes — and  hats — ^and  tan  shoes — and  bald-faced  shirts — and  ties. 
And  introductions — and  what  to  say  when  you  put  your  foot  through 
a  lady's  dress — when  to  drink  out  of  finger-bowls — and  all  the  really 
important  things."     He  waved  his  hand  in  a  comprehensive  gesture. 

"It  isn't  polish  I'm  looking  for — just  varnish.  Life  is  too  short 
to  teach  me  all  I  don't  know.  I  just  want  you  to  outline  lightly 
how  much  I  don't  know — so  I'll  know  when  I  don't  know.  As  I 
figure  it  out,  your  not  knowing  a  thing  doesn't  do  you  so  much 
harm,  so  long  as  you  know  you  don't  know  it.  It's  when  you  don't 
know  thaty  that  you  grieve  yourself  and  other  friends.  I  want  you 
to  expose  my  ignorance  as  much  as  you  can  in  a  month,  or,  say 
six  weeks,  if  you  haven't  rustled  another  job  by  that  time.  Then 
I  want  to  pervade  the  effete  East  somewhat.  Meantime  I  pay  the 
freight  regardless.     Does  it  go?" 

"It  goes,"  said  the  younger  man.  "Only  I'm  not  any  gilded 
social  success  myself — only  a  clerk  at  twenty  dollars  per." 

"A  clerk  at  twenty  dollars  per  can  give  me  cards  and  spades  and 
beat  me  out  at  this  game,"  said  Dallas.  "I  reckon  you  can  tell  me 
a  heap  more  than  I  can  learn  anyhow." 

It  need  not  be  said  that  a  frontiersman  would  not  take  so  radical 
a  step  as  this  without  an  adequate  reason.  In  this  case  the  reason 
was  otherwise  known  as  Miss  Elizabeth  Calvert  of  Detroit. 

In  due  course  of  time  Dallas  presented  himself  at  the  Calverts' 
pleasant  suburban  home,  announcing  cheerfully  that  he  had  come 
East  to  grow  up  with  the  country.  Mrs.  Calvert  was  frankly  de- 
lighted. Frank  John  received  him  with  exuberant  joy,  and  Mr. 
Calvert — whose  knowledge  of  Dallas  was  derived  from  post-vaca- 
tion reports  from  his  wife,  son  and  daughter — with  marked  warmth 
and  cordiality.  Miss  Elizabeth  was  surprised.  She  consistently 
maintained  this  attitude  long  after  she  had  had  time  for  the  novelty 
to  have  ceased  to  startle  her.  She  was,  moreover,  elusive,  capricious, 
changeable,  arbitrary  and  unexpected.  By  which  you  will  perceive 
that  Miss  Elizabeth  was  a  thoroughly  normal  girl. 

A  dashing  lieutenant,  too,  there  was,  loathed  of  Dallas's  heart, 
who  frequented  the  Calvert  home,  and  to  whom  Miss  Bessie  was 
noticeably  kind. 

These  things  disturbed  Dallas,  but  more  than  all  else  he  was 
troubled  by  the  sharp  contrast  between  the  life  in  the  city  and  the 
bleak,  desolate  and  lonely  land  he  had  come  from,  with  its  countless 
privations — accepted  there  without  comment  or  regret :  as  much  a 
matter  of  course  there  as  were  the  thousand  little  comforts,  refine- 


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SONS  OF  THE  SOIL  477 

ments  and  luxuries  in  the  life  Bessie  had  been  accustomed  to.  Con- 
ditions which  he  had  never  thought  of  taking  exception  to,  or  even 
deeming  undesirable,  seemed  monstrous  now,  when  thought  of  as 
part  of  her  future. 

Frank  John  devoted  most  of  his  leisure  to  entertaining  Dallas — 
<^lragging  him  to  a  great  many  places  where  he  did  not  want  to  go, 
initiating  him  into  the  charms  of  automobiles,  and  steam  launches, 
and  giving  glowing  dissertations  on  the  resources  and  future  of  De- 
troit— her  show  places,  the  volume  of  traffic  through  her  water-ways, 
and,  most  of  all,  her  street-car  system,  *'the  best  in  the  world,"  as  all 
good  Detroit  citizens  inform  the  wayfaring  man  during  the  first 
fifteen  minutes  of  their  acquaintance. 

"Frank  John,*'  said  the  visitor,  about  three  weeks  after  his  arrival, 
as  they  sauntered  along  the  water  front,  "you  folks  don't  seem  to  be 
going  over  the  hills  to  the  poor-house  to  any  great  extent.  Now,  I 
heard—" 

"Yes,  I  know,"  interrupted  his  friend.  "That  was  mostly  young 
and  excitable  reporter.  Had  the  Governor  taking  the  count.  'Re- 
I.K)rts  of  my  death  greatly  exaggerated,'  Mark  Twain  once  had  oc- 
casion to  wire  a  friend.  That's  very  maich  the  way  it  was  with  dad's 
financial  downfall — though  I  believe  he  did  get  his  fingers  pinched  a 
little.  We'd  better  go  home,  if  you're  going  to  take  in  the  flubduh- 
bery  at  the  Elton's." 

"Not  going,"  grunted  the  Westerner. 

"I  thought  you  were  going  to  take  Bess?" 

**No — she's  going  with  that  diamond-dyed  product  of  the  Charity 
School  on  the  Hudson,"  said  Dallas,  in  deep  disgust.  "I'm  done 
with  this  butterfly  life,  anyway — me.  I'm  going  to  get  me  some- 
thing to  do  in  this  man's  town,  and  after  I  get  it,  sell  out  my  little 
old  hook-and-ladder  brand.  I  can  see  now  how  much  smarter  yon 
fellows  are  than  we  are.  You  set  the  price  on  what  you  buy  from 
us,  and  you  set  the  price  on  what  we  buy  from  you.  'Now  you  take 
the  crow  and  I'll  take  the  turkey— or,  I'll  take  the  turkey  and  you  take 
the  crow,"  said  the  white  hunter.  *Huh!'  says  the  noble  red  man, 
*You  never  say  turkey  to  Injun  oncet.'  I  want  on  the  side  of  the 
table  where  the  percentage  is  in  my  favor.  Tomorrow  I  start  out 
to  get  my  bearings." 

Miss  Grace  Van  Arsdale  leaned  forward  in  her  chair,  her  eyes 
sparkling  with  mischief.  Miss  Van  Arsdale  was  visiting  Miss  Cal- 
vert, and  had  been  that  young  lady's  inseparable  companion  every 
time.  Dallas  had  seen  her  for  a  month.  Whether  instigated  there- 
unto by  Miss  Elizabeth  or  prompted  by  feminine  free-masonry, 
it  certainly  had  all  the  ear-marks  of  a  conspiracy ;  and  Dallas  was 
growing  restless  and  morose. 


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478  OUT    WEST 

"Give  an  account  of  yourself,  Mr.  McComas."  she  said.  '*You 
have  not  been  to  call  on  us  for  a  week." 

"I  have  been  looking  into  the  leading  industries  of  Michigan." 
vsaid  Dallas,  eying  his  tormentor  warily. 

"And  what  do  you  think  of  our  State?"  pursued  the  catechiser. 
**Bessie  says  that  in  your  country  people  are  always  asking  one 
what  one  thinks  of  the  West." 

''You'd  like  it  down  there.  It  would  just  suit  you.  You'd  be  so 
interested  in  the  cowboy's  work — standing  guard,  and  all  that,  you 
know,"  said  Dallas  pointedly.  "And  the  sheep — and  the  little  1am- 
mie-lambs.  You  remember  Mary's  little  lamb,  don't  you?  I  think 
of  that  so  often  lately." 

His  adversary  eyed  him  dubiously,  ignoring  his  last  remark. 

'*But  you  are  already  here/'  she  said.  "It  will  be  time  enough  to 
see  how  I  like  New  Mexico  when  1  get  down  there." 

Oh !  I  am  sure  you  would  like  it,"  murmured  Dallas  politely. 

"But  youVe  here  and  have  been  looking  about.  Now  give  us  the 
result  of  your  research." 

"The  first  thing  a  newcomer  notices,"  complied  Dallas,  promptly, 
"is  the  immense  amount  of  copper  and — h'm — its  alloys,  for  which 
your  State  is  so  justly  famed.  It  is  also  the  favorite  haunt  of  the 
cranberry  and — and  other  berries.  But,  after  a  month's  looking  into 
it,  I  should  say  that  the  great  forests  were  the  principal  source  of 
Michigan's  wealth.  The  leading  industry  seems  to  be  the  production 
of  lumber,  breakfast  food  and  pills.  It  is  a  nice  question  and  one 
that  will  bear  much  study  whether  the  pills  bring  on  dyspepsia,  there- 
by creating  a  demand  for  breakfast  food- — or  t'otherwise." 

Here  the  young  ladies  began  to  show  signs  of  indignation.  "At 
any  rate,"  he  artlessly  prattled  on,  "the  close  association  of  the  two 
great  products  is  touching  and  appropriate.  Pills — why,  I  did  not 
know  there  were  so  many  pills  made  in  the  world  as  there  are  right 
here  in  Detroit.  They  make  enough  pills  here  every  year  to  make 
a  necklace  long  enough  to  reach  twenty-four  times  around  the  earth 
— or,  was  it  tw-o  hundred  and  forty  times?"  he  queried  reflectively. 

"You  should  admire  the  foresight,  sagacity  and  acumen  displayed 
in  building  up  these  immense  industries,"  commented  Miss  Van 
Arsdale,  severely.  "1  fear  you  are  a  sad  scoffer,  Mr.  McComas. 
Are  you  not  impressed  with  the  ability  and  skill  of  our  great  com- 
mercial leaders?" 

"Yes — some!"  admitted  Dallas;  "but  my  principal  impression  was 
how^  easy  it  ought  to  be  for  me  to  learn  French — me  knowing  some 
Spanish  already." 

"Carrol  McComas,  what  are  you  talking  about?"  said  Miss  Eliza- 
l>eth.  sharply.  "What  on  earth  has  French  to  do  with  our  business 
men  ?" 


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SONS  01^  THE  SOIL  47*) 

"I  was  just  thinking,"  explained  Dallas,  meekly,  "how  much  sim- 
ilarity there  is  between  the  two  languages  at  times.  Compare  our 
Captains  of  Industry  with  the  French  'Chevaliers  d'Industrie.'  Al- 
most identical,  you  see — the  difference  is  not  worth — " 

'*Oh,  how  mean  you  are,"  broke  in  the  vivacious  Miss  Van  Ars- 
dale,  pouting.  "Do  l>e  serious,  and  don't  poke  fun  at  sacred  subjects. 
Jesting  aside,  now,  why  all  this  searching  after  knowledge?  Do  you 
intend  to  make  your  home  here,  if  you  find  a  business  worthy  of  your 
attention  ?" 

"I — I  did  hope  to" — hesitatingly — "but  Til  have  to  change  my 
plans,  I  guess.     But  Fll  quit  New  Mexico  anyhow." 

"Yes?"  said  Miss  Van  Arsdale^  with  polite  interest.  "And  where 
do  you  intend  to  go  from  here  ?" 

"To — to  Utah."    He  sighed  mournfully. 

Miss  Van  Arsdale  sat  up  very  straight,  her  cheeks  aglow.  She 
had  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  discomfort  and  embarrassment  she  had 
caused  this  young  man  for  weeks,  but  now  it  seemed  as  if  the  tables 
were  being  turned.  She  began  talking  at  once,  to  cover  her  con- 
fusion.   This  was  unwise. 

"You  ought   to  marry   and   settle   down   here,    Mr.    McComas." 

Dallas  leaned  toward  her,  a  wistful  look  in  his  eye.  "I — I  thought — 
maybe,"  he  faltered,  hopefully,  "that  T  could — persuade  you  and  Miss 
Calvert — why,  she's  gone !" 

For  Miss  Van  Arsdale  was  sweeping  majestically  from  the  room, 
flashing  a  glance  of  withering  indignation  at  him  from  the  door. 

"How  dare  you,"  said  Miss  Bessie,  furiously,  stamping  her  little 
foot.  "YouVe  insulted  her.  You  insinuated  that  she  was  ^brassy' 
and  as  good  as  called  her  a  gooseberry — " 

"I?  I  did?"  And  Dallas  opened  his  eyes  in  round  amazement. 
•"Yes,  you.  You  know  very  well  you  did.  Dont  look  at  me  like 
that.    You've  driven  her  off." 

"Now,  who  could  have  possibly  expected  that?"  came  the  slow 
query.  Innocent  perplexity  was  in  his  tones,  but  he  caught  Miss 
Bessie's  eye  and  both  laughed  in  spite  of  themselves.  "Anyhow,  it 
is  not  near  so  lonesome  since  she's  gone,  is  it?" 

Miss  Calvert  regarded  him  in  frigid  silence. 

"Well,  as  I  was  saying — " 

"Not  another  word,"  said  Miss  Elizabeth,  her  face  a  divine  crim- 
son, "till  you've  made  your  peace  with  Gracie.  I'm  ashamed  of 
you,  sir!" 

"Shall  I — next  time — shall  I — eh?"  stammered  I>allas,  humbly. 

"Dallas,  if  you  don't  stop,  I'll  never  speak  to  you  again." 

"Yes'm.  But  it  did  seem  so  impolite  to  leave  her  out  when — Come 
back,  Bessie — I  won't — I  promise — next  time  I — " 

But  Bessie  was  t;one. 


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480  OUT    WEST 

Dallas  had  found  out  one  entirely  unexpected  thing,  however — 
that  there  was  no  place  for  him  in  Detroit,  except  the  commonest 
of  unskilled  labor.  His  previous  experience  was  of  no  value  to  him 
here,  and  could  not  qualify  him  to  assist  in  the  utilization  of  by- 
products, or  writing  "ads*'  as  to  the  ravages  of  the  demon  coffee. 
For  an  engineer,  an  architect,  a  chemist,  an  electrician,  or  the  humblei 
crafts  of  the  mechanic,  printer,  plumber — for  blacksmiths,  carpen- 
ters, painters,  bricklayers — there  was  ample  opportunity  and  liberal 
compensation,  each  after  his  degree.  But  Dallas  was  none  of  these, 
and  at  thirty-three  it  was  too  late  to  learn.  He  was  fifteen  years 
behind  his  class.  Neither  was  he  qualified  for  a  sleek  salesman,  a 
bookkeeper,  a  stenographer,  for  life  insurance,  or  real  estate,  bank- 
cashier,  or  drummer,  lawyer,  preacher  or  doctor.  One  alternative 
alone  remained — to  sell  his  cattle  and  start  a  small  store  with  his 
slender  capital.  This,  to  one  of  his  habits  of  life,  would  be  a  mild 
and  uninteresting  form  of  going  to  the  penitentiary,  even  if  it  were 
not  almost  ordained  to  failure. 

He  was  a  modest  man,  but  could  not  help  knowing  that  he  was 
not  lacking  in  ability.  A  life  spent  in  getting  impossible  things  done 
had  taught  him  this ;  and  he  felt  that  with  a  little  time  he  could  have 
"made  good'*  in  many  of  the  places  he  had  tried  for.  No  one  cared 
for  possibilities,  however;  something  tangible  and  immediate  was 
what  they  wanted.  It  never  seemed  to  occur  to  them  that  marked 
success  in  one  of  the  most  trying  and  difficult  callings  in  the  world 
augured  success  in  other  lines.  But  then  they  didn't  know  there 
was  anything  difficult  about  the  cattle  business.    How  could  they  ? 

There  always  a  brief  inquiry  as  to  specific  experience  in  that  par- 
ticular line,  followed  by  a  briefer  negative,  and  often  by  an  incredu- 
lous stare  at  his  presumption.  And  one  piece  of  wisdom  was  be- 
stowed upon  him  several  hundred  times  by  prosperous  gentlemen 
who  did  not  require  his  services.  It  was  variously  worded  and  stated 
sometimes  kindly,  sometimes  arrogantly,  but  in  effect  it  was  always 
the  same. 

You  will  find  it  at  the  head  of  this  story.    //  is  not  true. 

So  Dallas  arrived  at  two  conclusions,  one  general  and  one  specific. 
The  first  was  that  it  paid  better  to  exploit,  to  buy  and  sell,  to  ad- 
vertise, to  manipulate,  to  adulterate,  or  to  imitate  anything  than  to 
produce  it  at  first  hand.  The  second  was  that  he  was,  by  instinct 
and  training,  a  producer,  a  son  of  the  soil  for  whom  there  was  no 
place  in  the  urban  scheme  of  things. 

He  could  not  make  a  position  for  himself  here  such  as  he  could 
ask  Miss  Bessie  Calvert  to  accept,  he  would  not  ask  her  to  give  up 
her  accustomed  comforts,  to  share  a  pioneer's  life  with  him — to 
give  up  the  hope  of  winning  her  was  out  of  his  power.  The  ques- 
tion ? 


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SONS  OF  THE  SOIL  481 

In  all  emergencies  the  first  thought  of  the  desert-bred  is  for  his 
horse.  To  this  instinct  Dallas  reverted  in  his  hour  ol  need,  feeling 
that  he  could  think  it  over  more  clearly  if  mounted.  "I'll  feel  more 
like  a  real  man  on  a  horse  again/'  he  said.  "Why,  oh  why  didn't  my 
folks  have  me  taught  to  make  pills?" 

From  a  carload  of  western  horses  a  certain  livery-stable  man  had 
purchased  a  brown  pony,  liberally  ornamented  with  generous  white 
splotches  of  irregular  design.  A  Roman  nose  he  had  with  a  crooked 
white  streak  running  obliquely  down  from  over  one  white-rimmed 
eye  to  the  right  side  of  his  nose.  The  purchase  was  made  in  haste 
and  repented  in  leisure.  The  spotted  acquisition  proved  a  horse  of 
resource.  He  would  fight,  .bite,  kick  and  squeal,  jump  into  the 
manger  and  snort  in  a  reproachful  and  most  disconcerting  way. 
Many  hostlers  were  bruised  and  sore  because  of  him,  even  before  the 
riding  began. 

Great  trials  and  tribulations  befell  them  when  tliey  first  saddled 
him,  and  he  threw  oflf  his  unlucky  riders  day  after  day  until  it  seemed 
that  the  sport  palled  on  him  and  he  suddenly  stopped  bucking  in  utter 
scorn  of  their  horsemanship  as  totally  unworthy  of  the  conscientious 
efforts  of  a  horse  of  his  calibre.  And  then,  week  after  week,  he 
pined  away,  losing  all  interest  in  life,  paying  no  more  delicate  atten- . 
tioris  to  the  hostler,  dull,  sullen,  unsociable  and  spiritless.  It  was  a 
clear  case  of  nostalgia.  Who  can  doubt  that  he  dreamed  of  mount- 
ain and  valley,  canon  and  plain,  the  freedom  of  the  open  range,  his 
wild  comrades — and  loathed  the  dull  town  and  his  cruel  prison- 
hon.«;c,  as  do  all  things  wild  and  free? 

He  got  disgracefully  fat.  and  the  fatter  he  got  the  lazier  he  got ; 
the  lazier  he  got,  the  fatter — and  so  on. 

Now  into  this  livery  stable  came  upon  a  day  a  quiet  man  and 
.small,  of  mild  appearance,  who  wanted  a  saddle  horse. 

"A  saddle  horse,  yes,  sir — this  way,  sir — take  a  seat,  sir,  in  the 
office  till  he's  saddled,  sir." 

**But,"  objected  Dallas,  **I  want  to  see  what  kind  of  a  mount  you 
give  me." 

**Oh !  yes,  sir — this  way,  sir.  There's  a  fine  horse,  sir — that  black 
— or  that  bay  filly  beyond." 

But  Dallas  had  caught  a  glimpj^e  of  a  brown  head  tossing  rest- 
lessly, an  arching  Roman  nose,  and  a  vicious  white  eye.  Such  an 
outline  he  had   seen  a  thousand   times  tossing  above  a   "milling" 

It  was  the  one  touch  of  the  West  he  had  seen  in  months  -and 
there  was  something  suspiciously  like  a  lump  in  his  throat  as  he 
walked  swiftly  down  the  stalls.  Right — right  for  a  thousand  dollars 
— it  was  a  ranch  horse — witness  the  disfiguring  brand. 

All  the  homesickness  restrained  so  long  surged  up  into  an  almost 


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482  OUT    WEST 

uncontrollable  longing  for  the  Open  Spaces.    ''V\\  take  this  one,"  he 
said. 

Yes,  sir.     But  he's  very  slow,  sir." 

"Never  mind — Fll  take  him."  And  he  slapped  the  spotted  pony 
jovially  on  the  neck.    **Wake  up  old  man — youVe  slept  too  late!" 

The  pony  eyed  him  hopefully  for  a  moment,  as  if  there  was  some- 
thing in  the  hearty  ringing  tones  that  appealed  to  him ;  but  observing 
the  hat,  shoes  and  the  rest  of  tlie  reasonably  "correct"  costume  Dallas 
wore,  he  languidly  closed  his  eyes,  giving  a  sight  of  resignation  as 
he  was  led  from  the  stall. 

**Oh,"  said  Dallas  hastily,  a  moment  later,  '^haven't  you  got  a 
saddler 

The  attendant  looked  puzzled. 

"A  saddle,"  repeated  Dallas,  impatiently.  "A  Western  saddle,  a 
(louble-cinch  saddle — a — why — a  saddle  in  fact." 

"Yes,  sir,"  said  the  hostkr,  l)ri!L^htening  up,  "there's  one  here  some^ 
vvheres,  sir.     But  it  is  very  heavy,  sir." 

After  some  research  he  produced  a  very  creditable  specimen  of 
the  "Citizen"  saddle — that  is  to  sav  a  litrht  and  cheap  imitation  of 
tlie  genuine  cowboy  saddle.    Whereat  Dallas  smiled  behind  his  hand. 

At  the  unwonted  and  almost  forgotten  pressure  of  the  hind  cinch 
the  pinto  threw  up  his  head  and  looked  wildly  around  as  if  searching 
for  the  instigator  of  this  outrage.  And  when  Dallas  took  him  by  the 
check-piece  he  snorted  in  amazement  and  recollection  and  began  to 
dance. 

"He  hasn't  shown  that  much  life  before  in  a  year,"  said  a  second 
liostler,  pausing  in  amazement.      "Look  at  that,  now !" 

Dallas  "checked"  the  pony  up  firmly  with  his  left  hand,  held  the 
saddle-horn  in  his  right  and  reached  for  the  stirrup.  TKe  pinto 
reared  up,  whirled,  tried  to  get  into  the  saddle,  there  was  a  gyrating, 
view  of  agitated  brown-and-vvhite  spinning  round  like  a  top — and 
Dallas  slid  easily  into  the  saddle,  seemingly  without  effort.  Three 
things  happened  at  one  and  the  same  time.  The  first  was  the  cowboy 
cliallengc,  clear  jubilant,  defiant.  "Lil-la — lil-la — lil-la — lye — 1-e-e- 
hu!"  The  second  was  that  Dallas  hat!  lean'jd  forward,  a  rein  in 
each  hand  and  was  raking  his  thumbs  up  and  down  the  spotted  neck, 
and  the  third  was  that  the  pony  was  pitching,  cheerfully,  joyously, 
whole-heartedly.^ And  as  thiy  passed  out  of  the  door  and  out  ol 
sight,  the  two  hostlers  looked  at  each  (Hher  in  bewilderment.  "Now, 
what  do  you  think  of  that?"  said  (Mk.  "Him  that  would  not  strike 
a  trot!" 

They  went  on  their  way  mutually  rejoicing.  Who  shall  say  that 
both  these  strangers  in  a  strange  land  did  not  feel  comfort  and  com- 
radeship, each  for  the  other  ?  Certainly  the  man  felt  it :  as  certainly 
the  paint-horse  acted  as  if  he  did,  prancing,  sneezing,  champing  at 


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SONS  Of  THE  SOIL  483 

the  bit,  cocking  his  ears,  shying  in  affected  alarm,  a^d  ever  flashing 
back  an  inquiring  eye  at  this  new  acquaintance  who  wore  standing 
collars  and  knew  how  to  ride.  If  they  had  taken  the  right-hand  road 
an  hour  later — But — they  took  the  left,  which  brought  them  presently 
to  Crittenden  Park. 

It  was  Saturday  afternoon  and  the  crack  suburban  band  was  de- 
lighting the  ears  of  society.  Society  was  present  in  force.  The  seats 
were  filled  with  brilliant  groups,  the  walks  were  one  slow-moving 
procession,  and  the  drives  crowded  with  all  manner  of  vehicles. 

So  much  Dallas  saw  as  he  approached.  Then,  without  warning, 
a  heavy  carriage,  drawn  by  two  frantic  blacks,  came  whirling  at  ut- 
most speed  around  the  corner  in  front  of  him.  The  first  seat  was 
empty,  the  lines  dragging  and  a  girl  and  two  children  were  clinging 
to  the  back  seat.  And  in  that  same  instant  the  pinto  gathered  his 
wiry  muscles  together  and  hurled  after  them. 

Untrained  ?  Unready  ?  The  mad  plunges  down  the  scarred  sides 
of  Blue  Mesa,  the  wild  races  through  the  Fornillo  Bosques — that 
hard  training  came  into  play  now.  He  sat  back  in  his  saddle  the 
reins  held  loosely,  while  the  pinto  gleamed  through  the  throng  of 
running  men  and  the  crush  of  crowding  vehicles,  his  ears  twitching, 
one  wicked  white  eye  rolling  back  reassuringly  at  his  master. 

Who  touched  the  brown  neck  lightly  with  the  reins,  and  pressed 
the  heaving  sides  with  his  knees,  that  he  might  swerve  to  this  side  or 
to  that,  where  death  laid  in  ambush. 

"I  guess,"  said  Dallas,  grimly,  *'this  is  one  place  where  I  fit  in." 

\  wild  uprorr  of  shojtine  men  and  screaming  women — 

Nearer — nearer — the  flying  carriage  struck  the  wheel  of  a  sur- 
rey and  Dallas  raced  through  a  shower  of  spokes. 

An  open  lane  ahead — now  I 

The  pinto  shot  forward  as  if  he  had  been  standing  still  before,  the 
wicked  head  low  down,  his  fleet  limbs  straining  in  a  last  tremendous 
and  desperate  effort — closer — closer — ten  yards — ^five — three — two — 
just  room  to  pass  between  the  runaways  and  the  buggies  crowding 
to  and  upon  the  curb. 

Another  yard  and  the  cowboy  swooped  swiftly  down,  clutched  at 
the  dragging  lines  and  was  back  in  the  saddle — all  in  the  fraction  of 
a  second,  and  they  thundered  down  the  street  with  undiminished 
si>eed. 

He  guided  the  flyi::i^  pinto  with  his  knees,  guiding  the  runaways 
firmly  with  the  strong  brown  hands,  content  at  first  to  ward  off  a 
collision. 

Then  slowly,  slowly  he  checked  them — not  too  suddenly  lest  the 
lines  should  break,  playing  the  straining  runaways  as  an  angler  plays 
his  game. 

Steady !    Steady — so ! 


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484  OUT    WEST 

Dallas  wrapped  the  lines  around  the  saddle-horn,  and  the  spotted 
pony  laid  back  his  ears,  sat  down  and  slid. 

A  dozen  men  were  at  the  runaways*  head — and  the  work  was  done. 

A  sea  of  faces  that  swelled  and  surged  toward  him,  with  waving 
of  white  hands  and  filmy  kerchiefs  like  foam  on  the  waves'  crests — 
the  thunder  of  cheering  voice — over  and  over — again  and  again. 

Yet  he  did  not  hear  or  heed,  but  turned  the  pinto's  face  to  the 
west  and  looked  steadfastly  over  them  all — to  where  a  thousand  and 
a  thousand  miles  away  his  own  kind  dwelt  in  his  own  country ! 

Breed  of  the  West!  whose  training,  if  it  does  not  make  money, 
makes  men — ^the  day  will  come  when  our  flag  reels  backward  in  a  los- 
ing fight,  when  banded  foes  clutch  at  the  Nation's  throat — when  the 
Miehty  Mother  shall  have  need  of  all  her  Sons. 

His  face  was  bleeding  where  he  had  struck  the  wheel  as  he  reached 
down  for  the  lines ;  but  he  did  not  feel  it.  reioicing  that  he  had  vindi- 
cated his  kind  in  his  own  eyes,  and  upheld  his  rieht  and  theirs  to 
cumber  the  earth  yet  a  little  longer.  Then  above  all  the  tumult  he 
heard  at  his  knee  a  pleading  voice,  half-timid,  half-exultant — 

*'Carrol !"  it  said. 

**You  never  saw  anything  like  it  in  all  your  life,''  said  Grace  Van 
Arsdale  to  her  next  friend.  "We — Bessie  Calvert  and  I — were  driv- 
ing with  George  and  Harry  and  we  saw  the  whole  thing. 

"No  race  horse  ever  seemed  to  run  like  that  absurd  spotted  pony. 

"And  that  little  man  sat  up  there  just  as  calm  and  unconcerned  as 
is  he  was  swinging  in  a  hammock.  How  he  ever  got  through  there 
with  buggies  backing  and  turning  without  someone  getting  killed  1 
can't  imagine.  I  knew  him,  you  know — met  him  at  Calvert's.  I'm 
afraid,"  giggling;  "I  tried  to  draw  him  out — and  he — my  dear,  he  has 
an  awful  sharp  tongue. 

"He  said — never  mind — I'll  never  try  to  patronize  a  man  like  him 
again.  Where  was  I  ?  Well,  when  he  reached  down  and  picked 
up  the  reins,  I  just  screamed,  and  most  all  the  women  did,  but  Bessie. 
She  was  pale,  but  I  don't  believe  she  was  frightened,  and  she  just 
gripped  the  buggy-seat  and  looked — Oh,  so  proud!  He  stopped  the 
runaways  just  beyond  us — and  what  did  Bessie  do  but  jump  out  and 
^o  straight  to  him — right  through  the  crowd  of  men.  'Let  me  pass, 
please — let  me  pass!*  she  kept  saying — and,  my  dear,  I  distinctly  saw 
her  pushing  and  pulling  men  aside  to  get  through.    Did  you  ever? 

"When  the  men  had  the  runaways  by  the  head  and  the  children  and 
the  girl  were  helped  out,  he — Mr.  McComas — turned  around  and 
stood  there  throwing  his  head  bnck  with  such  a  queer  look  on  his 
face,  and,  my  dear,  that  spotted  horse  held  his  head  up  exactly  the 
same  way,  and  looked  proud  just  as  if  he  knew  he  had  distinguished 
himself.     I'm  sure  he  knew  that  part  of  the  cheering  was  for  him. 

"Then  Bessie  came  uo  beside  Mr.  McComas  and  spoke  to  him — 
and  the  blood  dripped  off  from  his  face  onto  her  beautiful  gown  and 
she  never  noticed  it ! 

"He  was  oflF  in  a  moment,  and  what  do  you  think?  They  went 
strolling  off  down  the  street,  chatting  confidentially. 

"A  thousand  people  were  looking  at  them — ^and  they  did  not  seem 
to  know  there  was  anyone  in  the  whole  wide  world  but  them. 

"They  cheered  louder  than  ever  then,  and  they  didn't  notice  that, 
not  a  bit. 


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SONS  OF  THE  SOIL  485 

"Then  everybody  was  quiet  as  a  mouse — and  they  never  noticed 
that,  either,  but  v^ent  right  on  down  the  middle  of  the  street  and 
turned  the  corner,  leading  that  pony. 

•*Oh,  that  ridiculous  spotted  pony!  The  darling  hero,  he  danced 
and  pranced  and  tossed  his  head,  and  kept  pointing  one  ear  forward, 
and  the  other  back,  and  watching  Bessie  and  Mr.  McComas— ^turn- 
ing his  head  first  to  one  and  then  to  the  other,  for  all  the  world  like 
he  was  listening  to  every  word  they  said ! 

"And  I'm  sure  they'll  make  a  match!" 

**Carrol!  how  proud  I  am  of  you,"  she  said,  her  voice  trembling. 

Dallas  hooked  the  reins  over  his  arm,  and  walked  around  to 
Bessie's  left,  that  she  might  not  have  the  torn  side  of  his  face  next 
to  her.    "And  the  pinto  pony?"  he  suggested. 

"And  the  pinto  pony,"  she  acquiesced,  dimpling.  "Why,  Carrol, 
this  is  just  the  way  we  walked  that  first  morning  at  Bear  Den.  Do 
you  remember?" 

*'Yes — I  remember." 

A  lane  opened  for  them  through  the  crowd,  and  they  walked 
rlovvlv  on.     She  looked  at  him  furtively.     Then  with  averted  eyes: 

"Do  yo*i  remember,  Carrol,  our  last  night — there?" 

"Xo,  T  have  forgotten,"  firmly. 

"Are  you  sure?"  queried  Bessie,  softly,  her  cheeks  glowing. 

"Quite  sure,"  uncompromisingly. 

**Um — m — m,"  said  Bessie,  meditatively.    "When  did  you  forget?" 

"I  forgot  when  I  found  there  was  no  place  here  for  such  as  me." 
He  spoke  severely.  "I  don't  belong  here.  We  are  going  back  home 
this  week." 

"We?"  said  Bessie,  with  raised  eyebrows. 

"Pinto  and  me."   He  turned  and  stroked  the  pinto's  nose. 

"Oh!" 

"I  don't  fit  in  here — and  the  Southwest  is  no  place  for — for  those 
used  to  diflFerent  things.  Keep  a  memory  for  me,  Bessie.  I  am 
going  back  horhe  to  my  people." 

"To  Our  People,"  said  Bessie,  pale  but  deliberate. 

"Bessie!" 

"Entreat  me  not  to  leave  thee,  or  to  return  from  following  after 
thee;  ior  whither  thou  goest  I  will  go;  and  where  thou  lod^est,  I  will 
lodge ;  thy  people  shall  be  my  people,  and  thy  God  my  God ;  where 
thou  diest  will  I  die,  and  there  will  I  be  buried ;  the  Lord  do  so  to  me. 
and  more  also,  if  aught  but  death  part  thee  and  me. — Carrol !" 

The  ranch-house  stands  among  the  pines  on  the  western  slope  of 
the  Magdalenas,  looking  out  over  the  vast  sunlit  valley,  to  the  mighty 
bulk  of  the  San  Mateos  beyond. 

There  a  sedate  and  knowing  spotted  pony,  full  of  vears  and  honors, 
comes  up  the  caiion  daily,  waters  at  the  troughs  and  proceeds  soberly 
to  the  house-lot,  where  he  stands  with  his  head  over  the  fence. 

"You  old  scoundrel, '  says  Dallas.    "You  speckled  scoandrel  beast." 

The  pony  lays  his  ears  back.  "Kids,  here's  your  mount.  Bring 
your  corn." 

The  patter  of  running  feet — the  sound  of  happy  voices  in  chorus; 

"Oh !     Pinto's  come !     Pinto*s  tum  !" 


£nffle,  N.  M. 


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4S6 

THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY 

Archaeological  Institute  of  America. 

Prttidemi,  J.  S.  Slauson. 

Tice-PcBsidenU:  G«,a.  Harrison  Graj  Otis,  Editor  Los  Angeles  Times;  Fredk.  H.  Rindire. 

Prest.  ConaerTatlTe  Life  Ins.  Co.;  Geo.  P.  Bovard,  Prest.  U.  of  S.  C;  Dr.  Norman  Bridge. 

Secretary,  C has.  F.  Lummia.  "     Bxecutive  Committee,  Major  E.  W.  Jones, 

Trcurer.  W.  C.  P«ter«,o.  Vlce-Prest.  1st  "iss  Mary  E.  Foj.  Prof.  J.  A.  Pchay. 

N.tio«l  Bank  of  Lo.  Ao,ele..  ^upt.  C.t,  SchooU.  Los  Aaeeles;     F. 

Lunffren,  Chas.  F.  Lummis,  Dr.  F.  M. 
Recorder  and  Curator,  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer.  Palmer,  Theodore  B.  Comstock^ 

ADVISORY  coukcil: 
The  foreiroinff  officers  and 
H.  W.  O^MelTeny,  Los  Angeles.  Geo.  W.  Marston,  San  Dieiro. 

Lonis  A.  Dreyfns,  Santa  Barbara.  John  G.  North,  Riverside. 

Chas.  Cassatt  Davis,  Los  Anceles.  E.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel. 

Charles  Amadon  Moody,  Los  Anffeles.  Rt.  Rev.  Thos.  J.  Conaty,  Los  Angeles. 

Walter  R.  Bacon,  Los  Angeles.  Rt.  Rev.  Joseph  U.  Johnson,      ** 

Dr.  J.  H.  McBride,  Pasadena.  Dr.  John  T.  Martindalc, 

*Hoi«ORARY  LiFB  MEMBERS:  Hon.  Theodote  Roosevelt,  Washington;  Chas.  Eliot 
Norton,  LL.  D.,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

Life  Members:  Prof.  C.  C.  Bragdon,  Pres.  Lasell  Seminary,  Auburndale,  Mass.;  Rev. 
Jnan  Caballeria,  Plaza  Church,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  Chas.  Deeriug,  2645  Sheridan  Road, 
Evanston,  111.;  Mrs.  Eva  S.  F^nyes,  251  S.  Orange  Grove  Ave.,  Pasadena,  Cal.;  Miss  Mira 
Hershey,  350  S.  Grand  Ave.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  Major  E.  W.  Jones,  San  Gabriel,  Cal; 
Homer  Langhlin,  Laughlin  BIdg..  Loh  Angeles,  Cal.;  Los  Angeleti  State  Normal  School, 
Los  Angeles,  Cal.  (Gift  of  Senior  A.  Cla^s,  1904);  E.  P.  Ripley,  Fres  A.  T.  ii  S.  F.  R.  R.. 
Chlcag^o,  111.:  St.  Vincent^s  College,  Los  Angeles.  Cal.;  Santa  Clara  College,  Santa  Clara, 
Cal.;  James  Slauson,  Bradbury  Bldg.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.;  O.  S.  A.  Spragne,  Pasadena 
Cal  ;  J.  Downey  Harvey,  San  Francisco,  Cal.;  John  A.  McCall,  Prest.  N.  Y.  Life  Ins.  Co.; 
Mrs.  Eleanor  Martin,  San  Francisco;  Edwin  T.  Earl,  Los  Angeles;  Wm.  Keith,  San 
Francisco;  Mrs.  Henry  Wilson  Bart,  Los  Angeles;  W.  P.  Wesselhoeft,  M.  D.,  Boston  ; 
Dwight  Whiting,  Miss  A.  Amelia  Smead,  Los  Angeles. 

RBPRESBNTATIVBB  IN  THE  COUNCIL  OF  THE  A.   I.   A. 

Theo.  B.  Comstock  F.  M.  Palmer  F.  H.  Rindge 

Mary  E.  Foy  Chas.  P.  Lummis  C.  E.  Rnmsey 

J.  S.  Slanson,  ex*officio  Mrs.  W.  H.  Housh 


*By  their  consent,  and  subscribed  by  the  Southwest  Society. 


^■•HE  sober  story  of  the  Southwest  Society  seems  almost  too 
^1  good  to  be  true.  It  could  not  be  true,  probably,  in  any 
other  community.  The  Society  is  now  twenty-three 
months  old  and  has  twenty-five  life  members  (at  $ioo  each)  and 
313  annual  members  (at  $io  per  annum  each) — a  record  doubt- 
less never  matched  anywhere.  This  unparalleled  growth  is  due  to 
what  it  has  done  and  is  going  to  do — and  both  have  been  fre- 
quently outlined  in  these  pages.  Its  actual  accomplishment  for 
science  is  probably  as  unique  as  its  numerical  growth — time, 
means  and  all  considered. 

The  Society  has  become  hardened  to  Success — success  is  what 
it  began  for.  It  believes  that  Science,  Common  Sense  and  **Busi- 
ness"  can  pull  together — and  is  driving  that  team.  It  means  to 
be  practical  as  the  Materialists,  as  scientific  as  the  Idealists,  and 
to  make  the  combination  a  permanent  advantage  to  the  world's 
scholarship  and  to  this  community  today,  tomorrow  and  forever. 
And  this  community  has  seen  the  point.  That  is  why  the  biggest, 
though  youngest,  scientific  affiliation  in  America  has  grown  up 
here  in  less  than  two  years. 

But  its  latest  victory  is  best: 

For  many  years  the  Department  of  the  Interior  has  denied  all 
qomers  permission  to  conduct  scientific  exploration  on  the  Indian 
Reservations  of  the  Southwest.     For  that  matter,  official  per- 


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THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A.  L  A.  487 

mission  has  probably  never  been  granted  anyone.  In  the  care- 
less old  days,  foreign  and  American  institutions  have  unscien- 
tifically gophered  in  this  wonderful  treasure-house  of  American 
antiquities,  and  have  mostly  purchased  (from  sheep-herders  and 
traders)  unidentified  objects  from  "somewhere  in  New  Mexico" 
or  Arizona..  Later,  a  sense  of  its  responsibilities  in  preserving  for 
the  benefit  of  the  public  the  wealth  of  American  archaeology  (as 
interesting  and  valuable,  and  more  numerous,  than  the  like  re- 
mains in  classic  lands)  has  grown  up  in  the  Department  of  the 
Interior,  which  controls  the  public  domain  of  the  United  States; 
and  regulations  have  been  thrown  about  the  most  important  pre- 
historic ruins.  Within  a  year  or  so  there  has  even  arisen  a  recog- 
nition of  the  need  of  such  protection  as  Greece,  Italy,  Mexico, 
Peru,  and  practically  every  other  civilized  country,  affords  its 
own  antiquities ;  and  various  departments  of  the  government  are 
now  in  consultation  with  leading  scientific  bodies  of  this  country 
to  secure  the  passage  of  an  adequate  bill  for  this  purpose.  One 
or  two  bills  have  already  been  killed  in  Congress,  chiefly  through 
the  instrumentality  of  Mr.  Cannon ;  and  while  it  seemed  a  hard- 
ship at  the  time,  it  is  probably  just  as  well  that  these  rather 
undigested  plans  did  not  succeed.  It  gives  room  for  a  wiser  bill 
to  be  passed  this  year. 

Very  naturally  this  policy  of  protection  of  our  remains  has 
been  considerably  formulated  by  routine  clerks.  The  large 
Americans  who  are  at  the  head  of  government  departments,  are 
too  busy  to  know  in  detail  all  that  is  in  their  jurisdiction.  They 
depend  overwhelmingly  on  the  recommendations  of  their  clerks. 
The  clerks  in  turn,  being  in  the  way  of  routine,  and  unfamiliar 
with  anything  of  the  field  conditions,  have  naturally  followed 
the  line  of  least  resistance ;  and  the  policy  of  protection  of  antiqui- 
ties had  grown  to  be  a  Chinese  wall. 

Harvard  University,  the  Field  Columbian  Museum,  the  Muse- 
um of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania,  the  Brooklyn  Museum — 
and  in  fact  all  other  prominent  museums  in  the  United  States — 
have  been  denied  access  to  government  reservations  in  the  South- 
west. For  obvious  reasons,  the  most  important  antiquities  are 
mostly  situated  on  these  reservations.  The  matter  had  gone  so 
far  in  Red  Tape  that  some  of  the  most  distinguished  archaeol- 
ogists alive  have  been  chased  off  Indian  Reservations  by  $i50o-a- 
year  Indian  agents,  lest  they  acquire  something  for  science.  Not 
very  long  ago — in  fact,  within  three  months — President  Harper, 
of  the  University  of  Chicago,  applied  for  permission  to  conduct 
scientific  exploration  on  such  reservations,  and  was  denied.  After 
long  protest,  these  many  and  influential  institutions  had  prac- 
tically thrown  up  their  hands ;  and  the  Indian  Reservations,  with 
their  incalculable  riches  for  the  world's  scholarship,  were  a 
sealed  book. 

On  the  6th  of  July  the  Southwest  Society  addressed  to  the  De- 
partment of  the  Interior  a  formal  request  to  be  allowed  to  con- 
duct scientific  explorations  in  a  certain  part  of  Arizona;  a  portion 
of  the  area  being  included  in  an  Indian  Reservation.  In  due  time 
and  formally,  the  application  was  absolutely  denied,  the  reasons 
for  this  general  policy  being  srt  forth. 

Thereupon  the  Southwest  Society  took  steps  to  get  over  the 


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488  OUT    WEST 

heads  of  the  routine  clerks  to  the  larger  Americans  who  are  the 
responsible  heads  of  this  government.  The  facts  in  the  case  were 
pi^esented,  both  as  concerns  science  in  general,  and  the  rights  of 
this  Western  community  in  particular.  After  a  full  correspond- 
ence, the  policy  of  the  Interior  Department  has  been  changed  in 
favor  of  the  Southwest  Society — which  means,  of  course,  also  in 
favor  of  any  other  responsible  scientific  body.  The  Southwest  So- 
ciety has  been  granted  official  permission  to  conduct  scientific  ex- 
ploration on  Indian  Reservations,  in  co-operation  with  the  Bu- 
reau of  American  Ethnology.  This  means  that  the  Southwest 
Museum  can  have  a  collection  from  its  own  field — and  this  mu- 
seum means  to  have  from  this  field  the  best  collection  in  the 
world.  Much  of  the  correspondence  must,  of  course,  be  held 
confidential ;  but  the  official  permit  is  herewith  appended : 

October  3,  1905. 
Chas.  F.  Lummis,  Esq., 

Secretary  of  the  Southwest  Society,  Archaeological  Institute  of  America, 
Los  Angeles,  Cal. 
Sir : — You  are  advised  that  upon  the  recommendation  of  this  Office  the  Act- 
ing Secretary  of  the  Interior,  under  date  of  the  28th  ultimo,  granted  condi- 
tional permission  for  your  Society  to  conduct  archaeological  explorations  on 
Indian  reservations  in  the  Southwest — "such  work  to  be  done  in  co-operation 
with,  and  under  the  oversight  of,  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology." 

The  Department,  in  granting  this  authority,  instructs  this  Office  to  advise 
you  of  its  action  and  to  direct  you  to  correspond  with  the  Chief  of  the  said 
jBureau,  to  the  end  that  your  Society  may  co-operate  with  that  Bureau,  as 
indicated. 

For  your  full  information,  a  copy  of  the  Acting  Secretary's  letter  of  Sep- 
tember 28  last,  is  enclosed. 

In  view  of  the  Department's  instructions,  you  are  hereby  directed  to  cor- 
respond with  the  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology,  Smithsonian 
Institution,  to  the  end  that  proper  arrangements  may  be  made  to  prosecute 
the  proposed  work,  under  the  supervision  of,  and  in  co-operation  with,  the 
said  Bureau.  Very  respectfully, 

C.  F.  Larrabee, 
Acting  Commissioner. 

This  is  the  largest  victory  ever  won  by  any  scientific  body  in 
the  United  States — largest  not  only  for  its  own  interests,  but  for 
American  science  altogether.  Other  museums  will  profit  by  and 
advance  the  world's  scholarship  in  proportion  to  their  enter- 
prise— and  many  of  them  have  almost  limitless  means  at  their 
disposal.  The  Southwest  Society  engages  that  in  this,  its  home 
field,  it  will  rank  second  to  none  of  them  in  the  quality  of  its 
collections.  The  quantity  will  depend  entirely  on  the  financial 
support  of  this  community  for  whom  the  Society  has  earned  the 
chance  to  have,  for  the  education  of  our  own  day  and  for  our 
children,  such  a  museum  as  does  not  yet  exist  anywhere  in  the 
United  States. 

It  is  gratifying  to  the  Southwest  Society,  and  probably  will  be 
to  the  community  it  serves,  that  its  reputation  among  the  world's 
scientists  is  already  sufficient  to  have  brought  about  this  special 
consideration.  The  official  report  of  the  scientific  bodies  to  which 
the  Department  of  the  Interior  referred  the  petition  of  the  South- 
west Society  was  so  flattering  as  to  settle  the  question  beyond 
cavil.  It  is  mildly  reflected  in  the  appended  letter  from  the  Act- 
ing Secretary  of  the  Interior  to  the  Commissioner  of  Indian 
Affairs  : 


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THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A.  1.  A,         489 

September  28,  1905. 
The  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs. 

Sir: — I  have  received  and  considered  your  communication  of  the  23d  in- 
stant, reporting  upon  the  application  of  tHe  Southwest  Society  of  the  Archaeo- 
logical Institute  of  America,  for  permission  to  conduct  archaeological  ex- 
plorations on  Indian  Reservations  in  the  Southwest. 

You  refer  to  the  esteem  in  which  this  society  is  held  by .  the  Smithsonian 
Institution  and  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology,  as  ^et  forth  in  the  letter 
of  Professor  Holmes  of  September  13,  1905,  and  concurred  in  by  the  Acting 
Secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  under  date  of  September  14th,  and 
you  express  the  opinion  that  no  reasonable  objection  could  be  raised  against 
permitting  the  said  society  to  undertake  the  proposed  work  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  Government;  and,  further,  that  permission  to  co-operate  with 
the  said  Bureau  in  the  manner  indicated  would  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
law,  as  understood  by  your  Office,  and  at  the  same  time  be  of  great  service 
to  the  Government  You  therefore  recommend  that  permission  be  granted 
the  Southwest  Society  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America,  to  conduct 
aichaeological  explorations,  and  to  make  excavations  on  Indian  Reservations 
in  the  Southwest,  upon  the  condition  that  such  work  be  done  in  co-operation 
with,  and  under  the  oversight  of,  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology. 

This  recommendation  is  approved,  and  you  will  advise  the  Secretary  of  the 
Southwest  Society  of  this  action,  and  direct  him  to  correspond  with  the  Chief 
of  said  Bureau  to  the  end  that  his  society  may  co-operate  with  that  Bureau 
as  indicated.  You  will  also  notify  the  Bureau  of  Ethnology  of  this  conditional 
authority,  and  request  that  your  Office  be  advised  of  any  arrangements  made 
for  the  work  in  question,  in  order  that  Agents  or  Superintendents  in  charge 
of  reservation  to  be  visited  may  be  given  proper  instructions,  etc. 

The  enclosures  of  your  said  letter  are  herewith  returned. 

Very  respectfully 

Thos.  Ryan, 
Acting  Secretary. 

The  Society's  First  Arizona  Expedition  returned  from  the 
field  last  month,  after  a  six  weeks'  campaign  which  was  emi- 
nently successful.  With  the  expenditure  of  a  ridiculously  small 
sum  of  money,  the  party  visited  over  eighty  prehistoric  ruins  and 
conducted  excavations  in  the  more  promising  ones.  The  visible 
fruits  of  exploration  are  400  museum  specimens,  enough  to  fill 
three  display  cases.  Among  the  finds  are  several  that  have  no 
parallel  in  any  museum  in  the  world.  An  illustrated  paper  on 
this  expedition  will  appear  in  an  early  number  of  the  magazine. 

In  view  of  the  magnificent  success  of  the  Society  in  securing 
the  opening  of  the  Indian  Reservations  to  scientific  research, 
active  preparations  for  making  the  best  of  this  new  privilege 
will  be  taken  by  the  Society  for  the  Southwest  Museum. 

Since  the  last  number  of  this  magazine  the  following  new 
members  have  been  enrolled : 

Geo.  J.  Birkel,  Los  Angeles.  Chas.  Donlon,  Oxnard,  Cal. 

Harry  B.  Chase,  Riverside,  Cal.  Tod  Ford,  Pasadena,  Cal. 

Woods  Hutchinson,  M.  D.,  Redlands,  Mrs.   Eldredge  M.  Fowler,   Pasadena, 

Cal.  Cal. 

Col.  S.  H.  Finley,  Santa  Ana,  Cal. 

Major  E.  W.  Jones,  President  of  the  Loyal  Legion,  has  been 
elected  permanent  chairman  of  the  Executive  Committee. 


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490 


THREE  No  Other  country  in  the  world  ever  did  have  so  acute 

DEGREES  an  attack  of  bookishness  as  the  United  States  tosses  with 

FEVER  today.  This  is  largely  due  to  the  newspapers;  which 
multiply  not  only  our  "hearing  about''  new  books,  and  the  un- 
derwear of  their  authors,  but  the  number  of  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  confiding  citizens  that  can  be  persuaded  to  buy  a  literary 
pigrin-a-poke  by  such  daily  hypnosis — they  have  even  made  us 
feel  almost  as  guilty  not  to  have  read  the  Six  Best  Sellers  as  to 
have  been  president  of  an  insurance  company. 

The  deepest  criticism  of  us  by  the  best  minds  of  older  countries 
— and  of  our  own — is  our  lack  of  a  scholarly  class.  There  is  no 
equal  area  of  population  in  the  world  which  opens  books  one-half 
so  ceaselessly  as  we  do;  but  we  have  as  yet  little  to  show  for 
the  opening,  as  compared  with  England — and  particularly  with 
Germany.  Even  much  lesser  countries  than  these  thrust  a  tongue 
in  the  cheek  at  what  they  take  to  be  our  habit — a  desire  to  Seem 
to  Know,  but  an  endemic  undesire  to  Know.  The  feeling  is 
abroad — whether  right  or  not — that  Americans  are  not  in  the 
serious  sense  scholarly;  that  the  men  are  on  the  average  too 
busy,  and  the  women  on  the  average  too  precipitate,  really  to 
Learn.  One  class  is  felt  to  have  too  little  time  for  culture,  and 
the  other  class  to  be  trying  to  get  too  much  culture  "done"  at  a 
time. 

This  is  something  which  history  a  hundred  years  from  now 
will  probably  know  much  more  about,  in  its  due  proportion,  than 
the  wisest  can  know  now.  But  the  cause  for  this  perhaps  cen- 
sorious opinion  of  foreigners  is  obvious  to  all  thoughtful  people 
among  ourselves. 

There  is  only  one  way  to  Know  things-— and  that  is  to  Learn. 
Learning  is  never  done  by  skimming,  nor  yet  by  sliding  down 
liill.  It  invariably  takes  time  and  hard  work.  Also  appetite. 
There  is  a  difference  between  wishing  to  be  able  to  patter  about 
books,  and  knowing  what  books  really  are.  It  takes  verv  little 
time  and  effort  to  skim  the  cream  of  any  "school"  of  art"  or  lit- 
erature from  many  text  books  for  a  paper  of  occasion.  It  takes 
a  great  deal  of  time  and  effort  to  get  into  one's  marrow  anything 
permanent  about  any  school  of  literature  or  art.  There  are  peo- 
ple of  sound  information  who  have  the  outward  appearance  of 
doing  these  things  with  a  touch ;  but  that  is  only  a  tempera- 
mental illusion.  Even  they  have  to  Study  in  order  to  Know. 
So  many  people  really  believe  they  "just  love  books" — ^when 


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IN    THE    LION'S  DEN  491 

the  fact  is  that  they  never  knew  any  one  book  well  enough  to  love 
it,  and  that  they  have  never  learned  the  attitude  of  leisure,  with- 
out which  love  of  any  sort  never  comes.  What  they  do  like  is 
to  be  entertained — and  also  to  be  in  the  fashion.  The  endless 
procession  of  the  New  Book  is  forever  passing  before  them  like 
the  throng  at  a  Presidential  reception;  a  clutch,  a  bow,  "dee- 
lighted" — and  then  the  next.  They  have  not  yet  learned  to 
thank  God  when  they  can  escape  to  a  peaceful  corner,  away  from 
the  senseless  dress-parade,  and  take  a  quiet  hour  in  slippers 
with  an  old  chum.  In  a  word,  their  "love"  is  only  flirting — "at- 
tention without  intention." 

It  is  a  natural  human  pleasure  to  make  a  lot  of  people,  who 
don't  themselves  know,  think  that  you  know  a  lot  about  some- 
thing they  have  been  led  to  believe  is  important.  But  even  from 
a  purely  selfish  standpoint  this  is  an  absolutely  trivial  and  shal- 
low pleasure  compared  to  the  joy  of  knowing  for  yourself.  Hu- 
man nature  is  essentially  and  always  selfish.  The  best  of  human 
nature  comes  when  we  make  our  selfishness  an  "enlightened" 
one.  The  people  who  know  how  to  have  real  enjoyment  in  this 
world  are  the  best  citizens  in  it.  They  not  only  get  most  for 
themselves,  they  give  most  to  others.  And  of  all  the  joys  there 
are  in  human  life,  none  other  is  quite  so  deep,  so  bright,  so  en- 
during, and  so  far-touching  as  the  joy  of  learning  things. 

Per  contra,  there  is  no  other  relation  in  life  so  unprofitable  as 
the  position  that  you  Know  Enough — none  so  barren  for  your- 
self and  for  everyone  else.  Every  human  being  is  a  little  different 
from  every  other  human  being.  Each  one  of  us  has  some  indi- 
vidual "angle  of  incidence  and  reflection ;"  each  has  a  choice  in 
learning,  as  in  love,  somewhat  different  from  the  choice  of  any 
other  person  now  extant.  But  everyone  who  is  to  get  good  and 
to  do  good,  in  a  world  devised  by  an  Intelligence  somewhat 
smarter  than  even  our  smartest  aggregations,  must  grow  in  mind. 
And  there  is  only  one  way  to  grow. 

There  have  been  several  millions  of  definitions  of  the  word 
"scholar;"  but  whatever  their  terminology,  all  reasonable  defi- 
nitions come  back  to  this — "A  scholar  is  one  who  never  knows 
Enough." 

The  strongest  argument  in  favor  of  what  ninety-nine     why 
out  of  100  will  define  to  you  as  "the  Darwinian  theory"  fear  to 

— namely,  that  we  are  "descended  from  Monkeys" — is  say  so? 

not  to  be  found  in  the  pages  of  evolution,  nor  yet  in  dissections 
of  our  comparable  bodily  build  with  these  alleged  aboreal  an- 
cestors. Mental  likeness  is  a  stronger  proof  of  heredity  than 
facial  or  physical  resemblance.  Quite  aside  from  the  tendency 
of  many  of  us  to  "make  moijkeys  of  ourselves"  even  unto  the 
ten  thousandth  generation,  we  preserve  unimpaired — if  we  do 
not  improve  upon---the  most  obvious  mental  characteristics  of  the 
simian;  namely,  imitation. 

This  is  one  of  the  fruits  of  the  huddle  which  we  call  civiliza- 
tion. Where  man  has  elbow-room  he  develops  somewhat  of  in- 
dividuality, which  is  the  reverse  of  imitation.  But  when  he  is 
crowded  in  with  his  fellow  man  so  close  that  he  has  to  see  and 
be  seen  every  day,  bis  outside  and  bis  inside  begin  to  gravitate 
toward  a  common  denominator.     He  imitates  his  neighbor  in 


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492  OVT     WEST 

dress,  in  speech,  and  in  every  other  habit — particularly  in  the 
more  childlike  habits. 

The  saddest  thing  about  our  modern  status  is  not  that  the  rich 
are  getting  richer  and  the  poor  getting  poorer — it  is  that  the  poor 
more  and  more  want  to  look  rich.  The  floor-walker's  wife  must 
dress  as  well  as  the  wife  of  the  man  who  hires  fifty  floor-walkers. 
The  insurance  clerk  feels  bounden  to  "put  on  as  much  dog'*  as 
the  president  of  the  company.  The  servant  girl  inclines  to  out- 
dress  her  employer. 

For  those  who  have  not  better,  this  is  all  right.  The  Bandar- 
Log,  whether  in  the  Indian  jungles  or  in  the  flats  of  an  American 
city,  are  content.  Content,  that  is,  to  be  discontented — to  wish 
they  were  as  monied  as  their  boss  and  to  insist  on  appearing 
to  be. 

But  even  in  our  modern  smartness  we  must  admit  that  the  Old 
Man  did  a  pretty  good  job  and  left  a  rather  persistent  thumb- 
mark  on  human  nature.  In  spite  of  all  the  gravitation  of  the 
crowd,  the  temptation  of  numbers,  the  fear  of  ridicule — there  are 
still  some  Americans  who  are  not  ashamed  to  tell  the  truth  and  to 
say,  "I  can't  afford  it." 

The  many  things  that  we  really  cannot  afford  would  make 
several  sermons  by  themselves.  It  is  enough  for  once  to  remind 
those  who  can  still  understand  this  language,  how  refreshing 
it  is  to  find' now  and  then  some  one  who,  in  the  cheaper  and 
therefore  more  difficult  standard,  has  still  the  sanity  to  say  of 
some  absurd  extravagance  of  living:    "I  can't  afford  the  money.'' 

THE  FALL  On  its  facc,  that  is  a  curious  differentiation  which  has 

OF  THE  crystalized    upon   the    periodicals   of   the   United   States 

WEEKLY  within  a  few  years.  The  functions  of  the  daily  have  been 
enormously  changed.  It  has  almost  incredibly  multiplied  in 
numbers,  in  circulation,  and  in  a  kind  of  "influence."  The 
monthly  press  has  had  a  corresponding  acceleration  in  numbers, 
in  activity  and  importance.  Amid  the  changes  of  this  generation, 
it  is  the  weekly  that  has  gone  to  the  wall. 

There  is  a  list,  perhaps  finger-long  in  the  whole  United  States, 
of  weekly  publications  that  you  can  name.  Half  of  these,  per- 
haps, have  some  credit.  The  Nation,  Harper's  Weekly,  Life,  and 
Puck,  all  of  New  York,  and  the  Argonaut  of  San  Francisco,  are 
in  a  class  by  themselves,  though  totally  different  each  from  the 
other — the  Nation  as  the  leading  political-literary-scientific  re- 
view in  America,  if  not  in  the  world ;  Harper's  Weekly  as  an  illus- 
trated mirror  of  current  events,  with  insecure  but  generally  high- 
minded  criticism ;  Life  and  Puck  as  leaders  for  the  world  in  hu- 
morous journalism;  and  the  Argonaut  as  the  one  typical  West- 
ern weekly — scholarly,  rather  legal-minded,  always  self-respect- 
ing, and  very  frequently  in  advance  of  all  contemporaries  on 
questions  concerning  the  large  policies  which  affect  the  more 
important  half  of  America.  There  are  now  a  few  weeklies  in 
the  country  which  can  be  catalogued  as  widely  known.  There 
are  still  fewer  which  can  be  classed  as  respectable. 

This  is  a  matter  to  stimulate  curiosity — that  the  mid-way  com- 
promise between  the  over-hurried  daily  and  the  somewhat  leis- 
urely monthly  has  shared  neither  the  progress  nor  the  prosperity 


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IN    THE   LION'S   DEN  493 

of  either.  With  the  enormous  acceleration  of  periodical  activity, 
there  must  be  some  reason  for  this  unequal  lagging  of  what  was 
once  an  important  factor.  Fifty  years  ago,  the  weekly  was  a 
power  in  the  land. 

The  daily  paper  has  become,  whether  for  better  or  worse,  the 
chief  educator  of  the  masses,  and  chief  collator  of  what  we  accept 
as  "information."  It  is  a  merciless  mill,  whose  grist  is  the  lives 
of  thousands  of  ambitious,  competent,  and  generally  responsi- 
ble young  men.  Almost  anyone  an3rwhere  near  legal  age  can  get 
a  chance  of  trial  on  a  newspaper.  For  serious  promotion,  there  is 
not  one  chance  in  a,  hundred — so  exacting  are  the  demands  of 
this  great  machine  which  skims  the  cream  off  the  world's  news 
daily  (before  it  has  a  fair  chance  to  rise)  and  makes  it  butter 
for  us  tomorrow  morning. 

The  monthly  has  more  leisure,  and,  in  proportion,  more  money. 
It  is  more  considerate  of  its  staff,  and  more  exacting  toward  it. 
It  requires  more  and  gives  more — not  only  in  money,  but  in 
time  to  do  the  thing  as  any  decent  worker  would  prefer  to  do  it 
if  he  had  his  choice. 

The  weekly  has  for  some  reason  fallen  mostly  into  the  hands 
of  failures  at  the  two  major  trades.  With  the  notable  exceptions 
already  named  or  allowed  for,  the  weekly  journal  in  the  United 
States  is  as  a  class  in  the  hands  of  men  unable  to  "hold  down" 
a  magazine  or  a  newspaper  position,  but  bitten  still  with  desire 
for  the  influence  of  type. 

The  few  successful  weeklies,  and  the  few  respectable  ones, 
in  the  United  States  are  conducted  by  men  who  could  manage 
big  newspapers  or  big  magazines.  They  could,  not  only  by  rea- 
son of  their  intellectuality,  but  by  reason  of  their  ethics.  They 
are  men  who  understand  the  obvious  lesson  that  personalities, 
back-door  gossip,  and  individual  gain  are  below  the  considera- 
tion of  Men;  that  type  is  for  longer-lasting  things.  They  deal 
not  with  the  problems  which  momentarily  afflict  the  minds  of 
servant-girls  or  flunkies,  but  with'  questions  of  permanence  and 
weight. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  is  a  temptation  in  every  considerable 
city  for  a  man  who  "could  not  keep  his  job"  on  one  of  the  city 
papers  to  start  a  substitute  vehicle  for  the  consideration  he  dis- 
likes to  lose.  He  probably  does  it  more  for  vanity  of  power 
than  for  money;  but  he  has  to  have  money  "to  run  the  thing." 
He  finds  in  a  short  time  that  his  ponderous  criticism  of  Life  as 
She  Should  be  Lived  does  not  so  deeply  impress  the  community 
as  to  call  forth  the  voluntary  coin.  He  does  not  argue  the  thing 
out  to  himself — if  he  had  that  kind  of  mind,  he  could  have  kept 
his  job  on  the  established  periodical.  But  having  already  tasted 
"authority,"  he  finds  a  certain  luxury  in  praising  by  type  the 
people  who  give  him  a  subscription  or  a  square  meal,  and  a  still 
more  flattering  comfort  in  blackguarding  the  persons  who  refuse 
to  be  impressed  by  his  importance.  He  does  not,  as  a  rule,  in- 
tend to  be  a  blackmailer.  But  almost  without  exception  he 
winds  up  by  being  one. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  blackmailer.  The  Century  Dic- 
tionary defines  blackmail  thus: 


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494  o ur  WES r 

*'Exlortion  in  any  mode  by  means  of  intimidation ;  as  the  ex- 
tortion of  money  by  threats  of  accusation  or  exposure,  or  of  un- 
favorable criticism  in  the  press." 

The  Standard  Dictionary  agrees  in  spirit,  if  not  in  letter.  In 
the  old  days  of  Scotland,  and  among  the  gutter-minded  of  today, 
the  procedure  is  simple.  The  country  has  had  recent  and  full 
exposition  of  the  methods  of  a  notorious  New  York  "Society" 
weekly  of  today.  The  simple  form  is  to  "set  up"  in  type  a 
scandalous  story  about  some  well-known  person,  and  agree  to 
withhold  it  in  consideration  of  so  many  dollars  or  hundred 
dollars. 

But  these  are  weeklies  with  the  courage  of  their  convictions, 
as  well  as  the  birth-mark  of  their  sewer.  The  more  dangerous 
blackmailer  is  the  one  who  is  "respectable."  He  does  not  do  so 
raw  a  thing.  He  is  aware  that  the  average  citizen  does  not  need 
kindergarten  instructions,  but  knows  a  "threat"  without  being 
personally  introduced.  He  is  not  obliged  to  go  to  a  man  and  say, 
"Here's  a  lie  about  you  which  will  do  you  harm,  because  a  good 
many  people  will  believe  it  if  we  print  it.  Give  me  $50  and  I 
will  keep  it  out."  He  knows  that  by  printing  a  lie  about  some- 
one whom  he  dislikes,  he  can  give  a  sufficient  hint  to  the  rest 
as  to  what  will  happen  to  them  if  they  don't  subscribe  to  his 
journal  and  advertise  in  it,  and  generally  assist  it  (and  him)  in 
making  a  living.  The  beauty  of  his  position  is  that  he  can  get 
the  same  results  as  the  cheaper  blackmailer,  and  fool  a  great 
many  more  people — and  most  easily  himself — into  believing  his 
trade  respectable. 

BEER  The  established  order  is  always  strong — very  often  too 

VERSUS  strong.    We  are  all  of  us  loath  to  give  up  Santa  Claus  and 

HISTORY  other  amiable  myths  of  childhood ;  all  of  us  dislike — un- 
less we  were  born  with  the  broad  English  "a"  in  pur  mouths — to 
discover  that  by  reason  of  its  etymology  the  tomayto  of  our 
New  England  youth  is  properly  tomahto.  And  when  a  stupid 
blunder  becomes  too  long-radicated  in  us,  we  never  unll  change, 
even  when  we  know  better. 

Several  thoughtful  people  have  protested  to  the  Lion  concern- 
ing the  effort  of  the  Landmarks  Club  to  have  the  inappropriate 
name  of  Mt.  Rainier  changed  back  to  the  original  form,  which 
the  city  now  bears.    Their  argument  is: 

"Tacoma  is  not  an  Indian  word,  but  a  corruption.  The  Indian 
word  is  Ta-(h)-ho-ma.  This  means  simply  Snow  Mountain 
and  was  applied  to  other  white  peaks  by  the  same  Indians." 

Despite  some  lengthy  letters,  these  are  the  only  arguments 
advanced. 

Now  in  the  United  States  there  are  thousands  of  geographical 
names  derived  from  Indian  languages.  At  least  90  per  cent  of 
these  names  are  rank  corruptions.  At  least  75  per  cent  of  them 
are  far  worse  corruptions  than  Tacoma  for  Ta-(h)-ho-ma.  For 
instance,  to  follow  the  proposed  plan,  "Niagara"  would  be 
spelled  Nee-a-gah-ra ;  "Loyalsock"  is  as  near  as  we  get  to  Lawy- 
saquik;  "Long  Tom"  is  our  version  of  Lung-tum-ler;  "Lehigh" 
is  for  Lechauwekink — and  so  on  for  thousands  more.  French 
and  Spanish  names  have  not  fared  any  better  at  our  hands.    "Key 


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IN    THE    LION'S   DEN  495 

West''  is  Cayo  Hueso.  "Loose"  is  TOurs;  "Picketwire''  is  for 
Purgatoire. 

Obviously,  the  city  of  Tacoma  is  not  a  sinner  above  others. 
If  we  can  come  as  close  with  the  mountain,  we  shall  do  better 
than  the  average.  Furthermore,  the  Landmarks  Club,  while  it 
has  some  sentiment,  also  has  some  practical  horse  sense.  Imagine 
trying  to  get  routine  clerks  and  map-makers  in  Washington  to 
write  "Ta-(h)-ho-ma."  As  for  Tacoma,  they  can  as  easily  be 
induced  as  they  have  already  been  induced  to  correct  a  good 
many  historic  names  in  California.  And  that  will  be  "good 
enough  for  Poor  Folks." 

No  one  who  is  familiar  with  the  derivation  of  geographic  place- 
names  in  the  United  States  will  urge  the  other  argfument.  If  it 
be  true  that  Tacoma  is  "just  a  common  name  for  any  old  snow 
mountain" — well,  so  is  Sierra  Nevada.  But  there  is  not  much 
danger  that  we  shall  change  that  now  specific  title  because  there 
were  other  Sierras  Nevadas.  Anybody  who  knows  anything 
about  Indian  languages  is  aware  that  this  procedure  is  univer- 
sally characteristic.  Niagara  means  "Cross  the  neck."  There 
are  some  other  necks  beside  the  hackman's  paradise.  When 
you  speak  of  "the  Green  Mountains,"  most  people  are  aware 
what  you  mean — though  there  are  a  few  other  elevations  of  the 
same  color  elsewhere  on  this  agreeable  planet. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  90  per  cent  of  the  place-names  in  the 
United  States  are  as  promiscuous. 

Until  some  serious  argument  is  brought  on  the  other  side,  it 
will  still  seem  worth  while  to  restore  to  the  noble  peak  which 
glorifies  the  horizon  of  the  city  of  Tacoma,  its  ancient  name — or 
rather  as  near  to  it  as  American  haste  will  allow  us  to  spell.  As 
before  suggested,  the  unidentified  Rear-Admiral  Rainier,  whom 
his  own  countrymen  have  not  thought  fit  to  place  in  any  text 
book  of  reference,  may  properly  be  left  as  trade-mark  for  the 
well-spoken-of-beer  which  has  adopted  him.  Otherwise,  it  would 
be  in  order  to  move  to  replace  the  historic  name  of  Monterey 
with  the  name  of  the  other  British  admiral  Seymour,  who  came 
thither  in  a  critical  time  on  the  same  errand  that  Vancouver  had 
— namely,  to  take  the  Pacific  Coast  for  England.  Really,  it  is 
not  too  late  to  undo  the  ignorant  christening  of  the  second  peak 
in  the  United  States — even  though  it  has  blundered  along  for 
more  than  a  century.  There  is  a  class  of  Americans  now  on  the 
Coast,  to  whom  education  is  not  a  matter  of  suspicion. 

Chas.  F.  Lummis. 


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496 


POUNDBD  1895  OFPICBB8 

Presideut,  Chas.  F.  Luramis. 
Vice-President,  Mariraret  Collier  Graham. 
Secretary,  Arthur  B.  Benton,  114  N.  Sprlnff  St. 
Treasurer.  J.  G.  Mossin,  California  Bank. 
Correspond  in  ff  Secretary,  Mrs.  M.  E.  Stilson, 
812  Ken»inffton  Road 


DIRBCTORS 

J.  6.  Moftsin. 
Henry  W.  O'Melveuy. 
Snmner  P.  Hunt. 
Arthur  B.  Benton. 
Mariraret  Collier  Graham. 
Chas.  F.  Lummis. 


Chairman  Membership  Committee,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Mossin,  1033Santee  St. 


^SrtHE  Club  has  ordered  work  to  begin  at  once  on  permanent 
J[  repairs  of  the  beautiful  sacristy  at  San  Juan  Capistrano. 
This  stone-vaulted  room  in  the  stone  church  was  badly 
cracked  by  the  great  earthquake  of  1812;  and  with  the  weather- 
ing of  nearly  a  century  has  come  to  a  precarious  condition.  Under 
the  supervision  of  Judge  Egan,  iron  turnbuckles  are  to  be  put 
in  to  hold  the  walls  from  falling  outward.  It  is  no  slight  task 
to  drill  boulder  walls  six  feet  in  thickness;  but  this  is  the  only 
way  to  safeguard  this  extraordinarily  interesting  room.  The 
cracks  in  the  fourfold  dome  will  at  the  same  time  be  filled  with 
cement. 

A  very  large  number  of  the  members  of  the  Club  have  thus 
far  failed  to  pay  their  dues  for  this  year.  Repairs  are  cruelly 
needed  at  every  Mission  in  the  Club's  charge ;  and  cannot  be 
undertaken  until  the  money  is  in  the  treasury.  Delinquent  mem- 
bers are  again  urged  to  pay  their  dues — and  all  public-spirited 
citizens  who  are  not  yet  members,  are  invited  to  join.  Dues  are 
but  $1.00  a  year.     $25.00  for  life  membership. 

Contributions  to  the  Work. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $8197.25. 

New  contributions— $1  each  (Membership)— Prof.  Otis  T.  Mason,  *U.  S. 
National  Museum,  Washington,  D.  C. ;  W.  C.  Hanawalt,  President  Lords- 
burg  College,  Lordsburg,  Cal. ;  W.  G.  KerckhoflF,  Los  Angeles ;  H.  Clay  Need- 
ham,  Newhall,  Cal. 

Account  Cook  Book,  $16.75. 

E.  G.  Hamersley,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  $2. 


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497 


/Redwoods  of  California, 

NATIONAL   BXECUTIVB  COMHITTBB.  LOS  ANCBLES  COUNCIL. 

DavldStarr  Jordan,  President  Stanford  University  PrbST.,  Rt.  Rev.  J.  H.  Johnson 
Geo  Bird  Grinneli,  Ed    "Forest  and  Stream,"  N.  Y.  KXBCUTIVB  COMMITTBB 

Chas.  Cassat  Davis.  Los  Anffdes  Wayland  H  Smith  (Sec.  of  the  Council) 

C  Hart  Merriatn.  Chief  Biological  Survey,  Washington  Miss  Cora  Foy 

D.  M.  Riordan,  Los  Angeles  Miss  Mary  B.  Warren 

Richaid  Egan,  Caplstrano,  Cal.  Miss  {Catherine  Kurtz.  Secretary 

Chas.  F.  Luromis.  Chairman  Chas.  F.  Lunimts,  Chairman 

ADVISORY  BOARD. 
Mrs.  Pheb«  A.  Hearst,  University  of  Callfoniia.  Dr.  T.  Mitchell  Pnidden.  Col.  Phys.  and  Surg'ns.  N.  Y . 

Archbishop  Ireland,  St.  Paul,  Minn.  •Dr.  Geo.  J.  Engelm&nn,  Boston. 


U.  S.  Senator  Thos.  R.  Bard.  California.  Miss  Alice  C.  Fletcher,  Washington. 

Edward  E.  Aver,  Newberry  Library.  Chicago.  F.  W.  Hodge,  Smithsonian  Institutlo 

Miss  Estelle  Reel.  Supt.  all  Indian  Schools,  Washington.  Hamlin  Garland,  author,  Chicago. 

W.  I.  McGee,  Bureau  of  Ethnology.  Mrs.  F.  N  Doubleday.  New  York 

P.  W.  Putnam,  Peabody  Museum,  Harvard  College.  Dr.  Washington  Matthews.  Washii 


W.  I.  McGee,  Bureau  of  Ethnology.  Mrs.  F.  N  Doubleday.  New  York. 

P.  W.  Putnam,  Peabody  Museum,  Harvard  College.  Dr.  Washington  Matthews.  Washington. 

Stewart  Culin.  Brooklyn  Inst.  Hon.  A.  K.  Smiley.  (Mohonk),  Redlands,  Cal. 


Geo.  A.  Dorsey,  Field  Columbian  Museum,  Chicago.  George  Kennan.  Washington. 

Treasurer,  W.  C.  Patterson,  Pres.  Los  Angeles  Nat'l  Bk. 

LIFB  MBMBBRS. 

Amelia  B.  Hollenback.  Josephine  W.  Drexel.  Thos.  Scattergood,  Miss  Mira  Hershey,  Mrs.  D.  A.  Senter,  Herbert  E 
Huntington,  Miss  Antoinette  E.  Gazzam,  J.  M.  C.  Marble,  Joseph  Pels.  Mrs.  Mary  Pels. 

^SitHE  efforts  of  the  Sequoya  League  are  at  present  particu- 
I  larly  directed  to  securing  lands  on  which  the  industrious 
Indians  of  the  five  Campo  Reservations  can  make  a  liv- 
ing by  hard  work  and  careful  economy.  As  this  whole  commu- 
nity knows,  these  Indians  have  been  saved  from  starvation  for 
nearly  a  year  by  individual  subscription  of  this  community.  That 
they  were  starving  was  not  their  fault.  They  are  neither  lazy 
nor  drunken  nor  vagabond.  The  fault  is  with  the  government, 
which  for  forty  years  has  allowed  them  to  suffer  on  the  worth- 
less lands  to  which  its  incompetent  agents  crowded  these  In- 
dians. 

At  the  recent  visit  of  United  States  Senator  Frank  P.  Flint 
with  officials  of  the  Sequoya  League  to  these  reservations,  con- 
ferences were  held  with  the  principal  men  to  discover  if  they 
would  be  willing  to  be  removed  to  a  decent  reservation  in  case 
the  government  supplied  one.  The  love  of  home  is  very  strong 
in  these  people,  and  their  respect  for  law  is  fundamental.  All 
such  decisions  are  reached  only  after  careful  deliberation  and 
careful  discussion. 

Meetings  in  each  reservation  have  been  held ;  captains  and  head 
men  have  discussed  the  matter  fully ;  and  in  a  general  conference 
of  the  captains,  October  15th,  the  unanimous  decision  was  ar- 
rived at  that  if  the  government  would  secure  a  suitable  reserva- 
tion **upon  which  we  could,  by  our  industry,  make  a  livelihood 


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498  OUT    IV  E  S  T 

for  ourselves  and  children"  these  villages  would  be  glad  to  con- 
sent to  such  removal,  and  to  do  their  best  on  the  newr  lands.  This 
letter,  addressed  to  the  chairman  of  the  Executive  Committee  of 
the  Sequoya  League,  is  signed  by  the  following  captains : 

Jose  Chapo,  Capt.  Manzanita  Reservation. 

Marco  Hiss-me-up,  Capt.  Cuiapaipa  Reservation. 

Lorenzo  Cuero,  Capt.  La  Posta  Reservation. 

Anselmo  Houser,  Capt.  Campo  Reservation. 

This  removes  the  obstacle  which  proved  so  serious  in  the  en- 
forced removal  of  the  Warner's  Ranch  Indians,  and  puts  the  mat- 
ter squarely  up  to  the  government.  It  has  been  absolutely 
proved,  not  only  by  the  reports  of  its  own  officials  for  more  than 
thirty  years,  but  by  recent  exhaustive  and  responsible  investiga- 
tion, that  the  lands  to  which  these  Indians  are  now  confined  are 
shamefully  inadequate  and  shamefully  worthless,  and  that  no 
human  industry  could  wrest  from  them  even  a  bare  livelihood. 
As  long  as  these  Indians  are  kept  upon  those  lands  the  humane 
citizens  of  Southern  California  will  be  obliged  practically  every 
year  to  contribute  money  and  supplies  to  keep  them  from  starva- 
tion. 

The  Indians  have  done  their  duty  by  working  hard  and  by 
pinching  close,  and  by  obeying  the  law  even  when  it  was  most 
unjust  and  oppressive.  This  community  has  done  its  duty  by 
generous  funds  for  the  relief  of  conditions  for  which  it  was  not 
personally  responsible.  Now  it  is  time  for  the  government  to 
undo  its  long  injustice  and  give  these  ill-treated  people  a  Square 
Deal. 

The  personal  familiarity  of  Senator  Flint  with  these  condi- 
tions may  be  expected  to  carry  weight  in  Washington;  but  his 
hands  should  be  upheld  in  what  is  always  a  hard  undertaking. 
Every  person  who  cares  not  merely  for  justice  to  all  human  be- 
ings, but  for  the  fair  name  of  California,  should  use  all  influence 
at  his  or  her  command  for  the  permanent  solution  and  remedy 
of  this  long-standing  disgrace. 

The  suggestion  that  tenderfoot  "experts'*  are,  after  all,  mere 
humans,  even  though  employed  by  the  government;  and  that 
sometimes  they  err  when  they  jump  into  a  country  they  never 
saw  before  (and  in  two  days  know  more  about  it  than  all  its 
inhabitants)  is  never  cordially  received  in  Red  Tape  circles.  Cab- 
inet officers  and  other  high  officials  are  generally  .men  of  common 
sense,  and  have  themselves  already  discovered  the  fallibility  of 
their  underlings;  but  these  large-calibre  heads  are  in  a  sub- 
merged minority  among  a  thousand  hired  "hands  f*  and  in  every 
department  the  real  bulk  of  authority,  as  of  numbers,  is  with  the 
$75  clerks  who  "run  the  routine." 


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THE  SEQUOYA  LEAGUE  499 

Only  three  or  four  years  ago  the  United  States  Senators  from 
California,  the  newspapers,  the  leading  professional  and  business 
men  of  Southern  California,  had  a  difficult  six  months'  campaign 
to  prevent  the  Interior  Department  from  paying  $70,000  for  a 
property  sold  thrice  before  (and  once  since)  for  half,  or  less  than 
half,  that  money,  and  staking  the  Warner  Ranch  Indians  on  it  to 
starve.  By  enough  insistence — and  by  the  personal  intervention 
of  the  President — a  suitable  location  was  secured  for  these  evicted 
Indians,  and  a  saving  of  nearly  33  per  cent,  in  money  effected 
in  the  cash  price,  besides  securing  50  per  cent  more  land,  500 
times  as  much  water,  and  other  things  in  proportion. 

The  $23,700  thus  saved  by  the  local  commission  has  been 
squandered  foolishly  (and  probably  illegally)  by  the  Red  Tape 
people.  It  is  due  only  to  the  presence  of  an  agent  with  good 
horse  sense  and  Western  experience  that  affairs  at  Pala  have  not 
absolutely  gone  to  the  dogs.  There  is  a  valley  that  Pasadena 
would  be  proud  to  annex — and  yet  by  gross  stupidity,  but  typical 
mismanagement  from  Washington,  the  fortunes  of  these  Indians 
have  been  seriously  jeopardized,  and  are  jeopardized  now. 

Besides  the  $30,000  allowed  by  the  appropriation  for  their  re- 
moval and  immediate  maintenance,  and  the  $23,700  improperly 
diverted  to  other  use  (from  its  proper  application  to  help  700 
other  Indians  still  worse  off),  a  matter  of  over  $18,000  from  a 
special  irrigation  fund  has  been  thrown  into  the  fire  by  the  In- 
terior Department  in  building  a  ridiculously  extravagant  and 
useless  cement  irrigation  system  which  now  hangs  high  and  dry 
and  useless  on  the  flanks  of  the .  Pala  hills.  The  government 
"expert"  was  sent  out  to  build  it.  He  is  a  nice  man,  against 
whom  no  finger  of  suspicion  is  pointed.  But  the  God-given  right 
of  a  government  position  does  not  entitle. a  man  to  Know  Cali- 
fornia without  Learning  it;  and  not  being  willing  to  learn  it,  the 
gentleman  has  added  one  more  monumental  failure  to  the  long 
list.  The  Pala  cement  ditch  is  and  ever  has  been  useless.  If  this 
is  a  damp  winter,  its  sections  will  be  found  in  chunks  somewhere 
down  the  valley  of  the  San  Luis  Rey. 

The  Sequoya  League  was  willing  to  insure  a  perfect  cement 
system  at  Pala  at  a  cost  not  to  exceed  $6,000 ;  on  the  experienced 
estimate  of  a  man  who  has  built  endless  systems  of  this  sort  and 
who  holds  a  high  position  in  Southern  California.  And  it  in- 
formed the  Depaitment  of  this  fact  at  the  time,  and  gave  specifi- 
cations to  show  why  Mr.  Butler's  plan  would  fail,  and  was  riot- 
ously extravagant,  even  if  it  could  succeed. 

A  few  weeks  ago  United  States  Senator  Flint  inspected  this 
monument  of  Red  Tape  inefficiency  from  end  to  end.  It  is  just 
possible  that  he  will  say  something  about  it  in  Washington. 


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«^iiik«^vi    kJLciic^a, 


considered  in  relation  to  the  history,  character  and  habits  of  its  people; 
a  Pole  —  Ostrogorski— wrote,  in  French,  what  is  still  the  only  satis- 
factory and  complete  account  of  the  organization  and  methods  of  our  polit- 
ical parties;  and  now  a  German — Hugo  Miinsterberg,  Professor  of  Psychol 
ogy  at  Harvard  University — has  given  to  the  world  an  analytical  study  of 
American  life  and  character  far  more  comprehensive  and  thorough-going 
than  has  ever  before  been  attempted.  The  Americans  was  written  in  Ger- 
man, with  the  avowed  purpose  of  explaining  to  the  German  public  in  detail 
the  political,  economic,  intellectual  and  social  aspects  of  American  culture 
and  to  interpret  systematically  to  that  public  the  democratic  ideals  of 
America.  Indeed,  Professor  Miinsterberg  feels  called  upon  to  apologize  at 
some  length  for  permitting  the  book  to  be  translated  into  English  at  all — he 
declined  to  translate  it  himself.  He  need  not  have  apologized;  to  the  con- 
trary, it  would  have  been  quite  inexcusable  to  exclude,  by  the  bar  of  an 
unfamiliar  tongue,  any  thoughtful  American  reader  from  this  superb  and 
characteristic  specimen  of  the  results  of  applying  German  scholarly  methods 
to  a  great  subject.  For  in  this  book  is  admirably  displayed  that  combination 
of  prodigious  industry  in  collecting  and  verifying  facts,  ingenuity  in  arrang- 
ing and  classifying  them  and  the  broad-visioned  faculty  for  generalized  inter- 
pretation that  is  recognized  as  typical  of  the  best  German  scholarship.  How 
minutely  inclusive  has  been  the  gathering  of  material  may  be  indicated  by 
observations — selected  hap-hazard  in  a  hasty  turning  of  the  pages — con- 
cerning the  nationality  of  barbers,  North  and  South;  the  problem  of  getting 
one's  boots  blacked,  and  how  it  has  been  relieved;  the  number  of  freight- 
car  loads  of  booklets  sent  out  in  a  single  day  by  a  patent  medicine  firm;  the 
price  of  advertising  in  the  Ladies*  Home  Journal;  and  the  annual  expendi- 
ture for  cut  flowers.  The  skill  in  classification  and  arrangement  is  equally 
manifest  in  that  not  one  of  these,  nor  of  the  other  thousands  of  facts  of 
the  most  diverse  nature,  is  "dragged  in  by  the  ears,"  or  presented  merely 
as  a  matter  of  curious  interest;  but  each  fits  harmoniously,  even  unnotice- 
ably,  into  the  general  argument.  And  the  gift  of  sweeping  generalization  is 
perhaps  most  obvious  of  all,  since  the  author  fearlessly  undertakes  to  inter- 
pret broadly  all  our  political  life  as  manifestation  of  our  "spirit  of  Self- 
Direction,"  our  economic  life  as  resultant  of  the  "Spirit  of  Self -Initiative," 
our  intellectual  life  as  expressing  the  "Spirit  of  Self- Perfection,"  and  our 
social  life  as  outgrowth  of  the  "Spirit  of  Self-Assertion."  He  barely  hints  that 
there  is,  besides,  even  more  vivid,  a  "Spirit  of  Self- Satisfaction" — but  from 
the  exploitation  of  this  he  deliberately  refrains. 

Professor  Miinsterberg  disclaims  any  intention  of  making  a  "real  scientific 
study  of  the  facts,"  pointing  out  that  to  do  this  in  genuine  scholarly  fashion 


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THAT  WHICH  IS  WRITTEN  501 

wculd  require  the  co-operation  of  many  specialists.  His  purpose  has  been 
to  "find  the.  deeper  impulses  in  American  life,"  to  "work  out  and  make  clear 
the  essentials  of  the  American  mission  in  the  world,"  to  "study  the  Ameri- 
cans as  the  best  of  them  are,  and  as  the  others  should  wish  to  be,"  and 
firtally  to  "awaken  a  better  understanding  of  Americans  in  the  German  na- 
tion." The  book  is  therefore  frankly  optimistic,  in  marked  contrast  to 
American  Traits,  in  which,  a  few  years  ago,  the  same  author  called  attention 
to  our  shortcomings  from  the  German  point-of-view.  Yet  that  book,  written 
avowedly  for  our  consumption,  was  kindly,  if  critical ;  and  the  fundamental 
purpose  of  each  book  is  the  same — to  bring  about  a  better  understanding 
of  each  national  life  by  the  other.  T  cannot  better  close  these  slight  and 
cursory  comments  on  a  monumental  work  than  by  quoting  its  own  closing 
sentences. 

Looking  at  the  people  of  the  New  World  even  from  afar,  one  will 
find  the  fascination,  novelty  and  greatness  of  the  American  world 
mission,  not  in  what  the  American  has  accomplished,  but  in  what 
he  desires  and  will  desire. 

Nevertheless,  this  will  not  seem  strange  or  foreign  to  any  German. 
In  the  depths  of  his  soul  he  has  himself  a  similar  play  of  desires. 
In  the  course  of  history,  reverence  and  faithfulness  developed  in  the 
German  soul  more  strongly  than  the  individualistic  craving  for  self- 
determination  pnd  self-assertion;  aristocratic  love  of  beauty  and 
truth  developed  before  the  democratic  spirit  of  self-initiative.  But 
today,  in  modern  Germany,  these  very  instincts  are  being  aroused, 
just  as  in  modern  America  those  forces  are  growing  which  have 
long  dominated  the  German  sotil. 

The  American  still  puts  the  higher  value  on  the  personal,  the 
German  on  the  over-personal;  the  American  on  the  intrinsic  value 
of  the  crenting  will,  the  German  on  the  intrinsic  value  of  the  absolute 
ideal.  But  every  day  sees  the  difference  reduced,  and  brings  the  two 
nations  nearer  to  a  similar  attitude  of  mind.  Moreover,  both  of  these 
fundamental  tendencies  are  equally  idealistic,  and  both  of  these  na- 
tions are  therefore  destined  to  understand  and  to  esteem  each  other, 
mutually  to  extend  their  friendship,  to  emulate  each  other,  and  to 
work  together,  so  that'  in  the  confused  play  of  temporal  forces  the 
intrinsically  valuable  shall  be  victorious  over  the  temporary  and 
fleeting,  the  ideal  over  the  accidental.  For  both  nations  feel  to- 
gether, in  the  depths  of  their  being,  that  in  order  to  give  meaning 
to  life  man  must  believe  in  timeless  ideals. 
McGure,  Phillips  &  Co.,  New  York.    $2.50  net. 

Henry  Wellington  Wack,  Fellow  of  ,the  Royal  Geographical  So-       summing  up 
ciety  and  member  of  the  New  York  Bar,  makes  it  perfectly  clear  in  for  the 

the  preface  to  his  Story  of  the  Congo  Free  State  from  what  stand-  defendant 

point  he  approaches  his  subject.  This  is.  briefly,  that  the  charges  of  cruelty 
and  oppression  against  King  Leopold's  government  are  but  part  of  an  or- 
ganized campaign  of  calumny  set  in  motion  by  a  few  British  rubber  mer- 
chants; and  that  the  Belgian  monarch  has,  in  fact,  carried  out  a  great  and 
humane  colonizing  undertaking,  founded  upon  modem  social  science.  Mr. 
Wack  has  had  free  access  to  the  archives  of  the  Administration  of  the 
Congo  Free  State  in  Brussels,  and  has  been  at  much  pains  to  familiarize  him- 
self with  other  available  sources  of  information.  The  result  appears  in  a 
volume  of  more  than  600  pages,  which  is  without  doubt  the  fullest  statement 


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502  our    IV  EST 

of  the  pro-Belgian  side  of  the  case  that  has  appeared  in  English.  It  is 
fully  illustrated  from  photographs.-  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons,  New  York.; 
Stoll  &  Thayer  Co..  Los  Angeles.    $3.50  net. 

FROM  ATLANTIS  There  is  various  testimony  to  the  effect  that  A  Dweller  on  Two 

TO  Planets    was    dictated    to    a    nineteen-year-old    boy    (Frederick    S. 

CAUFORNiA  Oliver)  by  a  character  who  was,  in  one  incarnation,  Zailm  Num- 
inos,  a  Poseid  dweller  on  the  Atlantean  continent,  some  12,000  years  ago; 
in  another,  Walter  Pierson,  a  California  mine  owner;  but  upon  the  soul 
plane  of  the  occult  adepts  of  Thibet,  to  Mol  Lang  the  Pertozian,  and  as  the 
author  of  this  book,  he  was  known  as  Phylos  the  Thibetan.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  give  here  the  faintest  outline  of  the  experiences,  on  this  planet  and 
another,  related  by  the  author,  but  they  are"  distinctly  removed  from  com- 
monplace. Moreover,  it  is  perfectly  evident  that  no  one  who  was  not  on 
Atlantis  12,000  years  ago,  and  in  Hesperus  at  a  nearer  date,  could  possibly 
have  been  personally  cognizant  of  the  facts  related.  And  the  picture  of 
Phylos,  used  as  a  frontispiece,  is  of  a  character  to  inspire  confidence  in  his 
veracity.     Baumgardt  Pub.  Co.,  Los  Angeles.    $2.00. 

A  CXEARING  Granting  that  time  and  space  are   infinite,   it  remains  true   that 

.  OF  TH^  the  portion  of  each  allotted  to  a'  single  reviewer  has  definite  and 

SHELVES  narrow  limits.  Wherefore,  despite  my  best  intentions  and  most 
serious  endeavor,  the  books  waiting  for  review  have  piled  ever  higher  on 
my  table  month  by  month,  till  the  sole  hope  of  "catching  up"  lies  in  treat- 
ing very  summarily  a  number  of  those  which  have  been  there  longest.  These 
include,  too  (more  is  the  pity),  several  which  have  had  their  place  among 
the  "best  sellers,"  some  which  will  repay  the  attention  of  any  thoughtful 
reader,  and  a  number  which  adequately  meet  the  requirements  of  those  who 
read  merely  for  entertainment. 

Among  the  novels,  for  example,  ther«  is  Howells's  The  Son  of  Royal 
Langbrith  (Harpers,*  $2.00),  a  study  of  life  and  character  which  adds  an- 
other leaf  to  the  laurels  crowning  the  Dean  of  American  novelists;  Maurice 
Hewlett's  The  Queen's  Quair  (Macmillan,  $1.50),  brilliant,  fascinating,  pen- 
etrating— a  historical  romance  which  is  more  than  history  and  more  than 
romance;  Robert  Hichens's  The  Garden  of  Allah  (Stokes,  $1.50),  that  re- 
markable study  of  the  Sahara  Desert  and  of  twq  lives  that  flowed  together 
there,  which  quite  properly  retains  a  place  on  best-seller  lists  a  year  after 
.  publication;  Robert  Grant's  The  Undercurrent  (Scribner,  $1.50),  with  a 
serious  analysis  of  present-day  problems  in  society,  business  and  religion 
neither  blurring  nor  blurred  by  an  entertaining  story;  Thomas  Dixon's 
The  Clansman  (Doubleday-Pagc.  $1.50),  which  deals  with  the  genesis  of 
the  Ku  Klux  Klan  after  the  passionately  partisan  fashion  in  which  this  au- 
thor handles  every  subject;  L.  H.  Hammond's  The  Master  Word  (Mac- 
millan, $1.50),  another  Southern  story,  but  written  in  a  very  different  tem- 
per and  much  more  artistic;  Joseph  Conrad's  Romance  (McClure,  $1.50), 
which  fascinated  me  in  the  reading  of  it  as  very  few  tales  of  simon-pure  ad- 
venture have  ever  done;  the  same  author's  Falk  (McClure,  $1.50),  in  which 
the  material  for  four  novels  is  condensed  into  the  same  number  of  short 
stories;  and  Laurence  Housman's  Sabrina  IVarham  (Macmillan,  $1.50),  a 
novel  of  quite  exceptional  power  and  breadth. 

These  are  the  cream  of  the  "left-over"  fiction,  so  far  as  my  review  table  is 
concerned,  and  not  one  of  them  but  deserved  more  space  than  I  have  given 
the  nine  together.  Of  the  stories  which  remain  in  the  file  now  marshalled 
for  instant  execution,  Richard  Gresham,  by  Robert  M.  Lovett  (Macmillan, 
$1.50),  is  the  story  of  the  making  of  a  man,  and  is  distinctly  above  the  aver- 


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THAT   WHICH  fS   WRITTEN  503 

age;  The  Way  of  the  North,  by  Warren  Cheney  (Doubleday-Page,  $1.50), 
is  a  vigorous  tale  of  Alaska  under  the  rule  of  Commander  Baranoff;  An 
Embarrassing  Orphan,  by  W.  E.  Norris  (Winston,  $1.00),  brings  into 
English  society  a  girl  who  has  inherited  a  great  fortune  but  supposes  herself 
to  be  poor — with  interesting  results;  An  American  Abelard  and  Heloise, 
by  Mary  Ives  Todd  (The  Grafton  Press,  $1.50),  deals,  among  other  things, 
with  a  fashionable  modern  clergyman  and  his  adoring  feminine  congrega- 
tion; The  Venus  of  Cadis,  by  Richard  Fisguill  (Holt,  $1.50),  is  an  extrav- 
aganza, in  which  mushroom  caves,  moonshiners,  Pag,  Pup  and  Pete,  and 
other  fantastic  creations  keep  something  unexpected  happening  most  of  the 
time;  Christmas  Eve  on  Lonesome,  by  John  Fox,  Jr.,  (Scribner,  $1.50),  is 
a  collection  of  short  stories,  very  attractive  in  both  'matter  and  form ;  Play- 
ers and  Vagabonds^  by  Viola  Roseboro  (Macmillan,  $1.50),  is  filled  with  in- 
formed and  entertaining  tales  of  the  stage  and  the  players  on  and  off  it; 
From  the  West  to  the  West,  by  Abigail  Scott  Duniway  (McClurg,  $1.50), 
though  cast  in  the  form  of  fiction,  recounts  faithfully  the  incidents  of  a 
family  emigration  from  Illinois  to  Oregon  half  a  century  ago;  Letters  from 
an  Oregon  Ranch,  by  "Katherine"  (McClurg,  $1,25  net),  tells  of  the  found- 
ing of  a  home  in  the  Far  Northwest  by  immigrants  of  the  present  day,  and 
is  beautifully  illustrated  from  photographs;  Amy  Dora's  Amusing  Day,  by 
Frank  M.  Bicknell  (Altemus),  is  sheer  nonsense,  as  it  was  intended  to  be; 
and  The  Thistles  of  Mount  Cedar,  by  Ursula  Tannenforst  (Winston,  $1.25), 
is  a  story  of  school-life  for  girls. 

It  is  no  tremendous  stride — John  Burroughs  would  say  that  the  distance 
was  infinitesimal — from  these  works  of  pur«  fiction  to  such  nature-books  as 
William  J.  Long's  School  of  the  Woods  (Ginn),  Charles  G.  D.  Roberts's 
The  Watchers  of  the  Trails  (Page,  $2.00),  and  Ernest  Thompson  Seton's 
Monarch,  the  Big  Bear  of  Tallac  (Scribner,  $1.25  net).  Only  one  of  the 
three  professes  to  be  wholly  a  record  of  observation,  though  the  other  two 
are  founded  upon  careful  noting  of  the  facts.  I  find  in  none  of  them  sufii- 
cient  reason  for  the  wrathful  objurgation  to  which  they  have  moved  the 
veteran  and  kindly  naturalist.  He  errs  quite  as  far  in  his  continual  refrain 
of,  "This  reported  observation  cannot  be  true;  because  animals  are  not  so 
made  that  they  can  act  that  way,"  as  they  do  in  reading  human  thought 
and  motive  into  the  "lower  order."  For  absolutely  the  only  way  in  which 
we  may  know  how  animals  can  act  is  by  observing  how  they  do  act  Any 
animal  psychology  which  starts  with  the  assumption  that  the  subjects  of 
the  inquiry  cannot  reason  starts  at  the  wrong  end ;  and  even  if  its  conclusions 
be  true,  they  have  been  arrived  at  by  an  unsound  method.  Some  other  time 
1  hope  to  tell  of  a  few  observations  of  my  own  which  are  to  me  inexplicable 
except  on  the  theory  of  a  chain  of  connected  reasoning  on  the  part  of  the 
animal  observed.  All  of  these  books  are  beautifully  printed,  illustrated  and 
bound,  and  may  be  offered  to  any  youngster,  of  whatever  age,  with  rea- 
sonable assurance  that  they  will  please  and  without  fear  of  corrupting  the 
youth.  In  jutaxposition  with  these  may  be  named  Mr.  Burrough's  own  Far 
and  Near  (Houghton-Mifflin,  $1.10  net),  a  delightful  addition  to  this  au- 
thor's long  list  of  charming  nature  'Studies. 

Before  passing  entirely  from  the  works'  of  fiction,  I  must  mention  Dr.  David 
Starr  Jordan's  The  Wandering  Host  (American  Unitarian  Association;  90 
cents  net),  a  fine  allegory  already  published  under  another  title  and  now  ap- 
pearing in  so  attractive  guise  as  to  make  it  especially  desirable  for  a  gift-book ; 
and  Mary  of  Magdala,  by  Dolores  Cortez  (privately  printed  in  Los  Angeles), 
which   would   be  interesting  if  for   no  oiher   reason  than   that   the   veritable 


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504  OUT    WEST 

queen  of  a  gypsy  tribe  (the  Gonzales)  undertakes  to  recount  as  it  might  have 
ueen  the  first  meeting  of  the  Nazarene  with  that  Mary  who  loved  greatly 
because  she  had  been  greatly  forgiven. 

Of  works  of  historical  or  biographical  character,  there  are  but  four  which 
must  be  included  in  this  "clearing  out."  The  essays  by  William  Garrott  Brown, 
gathered  under  the  title,  The  Foe  of  Compromise  (Macmillan;  $1.50  net), 
add  to  the  eagerness  with  which  I  am  awaiting  his  promised  History  of  the 
United  States  since  the  Civil  War;  Iowa,  the  hirst  Free  State  in  the  Louisiana 
Purchase,  by  William  Salter  (McClurg),  is  a  competent  account  of  that  ter- 
ritory frpm  its  discovery  in  1673  to  its  admission  into  the  Union  in  1846, 
with  a  number  of  interesting  and  valuable  illustrations;  and  The  Story  of  a 
Literary  Career  (Elizabeth  Towne,  Holyoke,  Mass.;  50  cents),  is  a  brief 
autobiographical  sketch  of  Ella  Wheeler  Wilcox,  with  additional  matter  by 
Ella  Giles  Ruddy,  and  is  avowedly  for  the  use  of  Literary  Clubs.  Thomas 
Nelson  Page's  1  he  Negro:  the  Southerner's  Problem  (Scribner;  $1.25  net), 
is  only  partly  concerned  with  past  records,  more  seriously  with  a  considera- 
tion of  what  the  records  shall  be  hereafter  and  how  best  to  make  them  what 
they  should  be. 

This  leads  naturally  enough  to  a  little  group  of  books  in  which  the  ethical 
note  is  foremost — every  one  of  them  profitable  and  stimulating  to  the  right 
sort  of  minds.  Of  these  1  name  first  the  annual  volume  of  essays  from  that 
piiiar  of  righteousness,  both  civic  and  personal,  Rt  Rev.  J.  L.  Spalding, 
liishop  of  Peoria,  which  appears  this  year  under  the  title.  Religion  and  Art 
(McClurg;  $1).  Routine  and  Ideals,  by  LeBaron  R.  Briggs  (Houghton- 
Mifiiin;  $1  net),  is  made  up  of  addresses  and  essays  on  educational  topics, 
which  are  confessed  as  sermons — and  good  sermons  from  noble  texts  ihcy 
aie.  Hugh  Black,  in  The  Practice  of  Self  Culture  (Macmillan;  $1.25  net), 
deals  with  the  practical  ways  in  which  the  self  may  be  equipped  for  service, 
by  culture  of  body,  mind,  imagination,  heart  and  conscience.  The  Right  Life, 
by  Dr.  Henry  A.  Stimson  (Barnes;  $1.20  net),  is  specially  intended  for 
younger  readers,  but  most  older  ones  will  find  helpful  things  in  it.  Religion : 
a  Criticism  and  forecast,  by  G.  Lowes  Dickinson,  (McClure),  is  brief,  but 
packed  full  of  pregnant  meaning;  and  An  Appeal  to  America  (McClure;  50 
cents),  contains  the  first  address  to  an  American  audience  by  Rev.  Charles 
Wagner,  tlie  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  the  little  volume  being  set  aside  to  aid 
a  fund  for  the  purchase  of  land  in  Paris  on  which  a  church  will  be  built  for 
the  authors  of  The  Simple  Life,  In  Chess-Humanics  (Whitaker  &  Ray; 
$1.50  net),  Wallace  E.  Nevill  draws  parallelisms  between  the  game  of  chess 
and  human  affairs/  with  much  ingenuity  and  erudition. 

There  remain  a  few  volumes  of  poetry — and  this  is  as  good  a  time  as  any 
to  confess  frankly  what  has  probably  been  discovered  by  regular  readers  of 
these  pages — that  I  habitually  shirk  the  criticism  or  review  of  poetry.  There 
are  several  reasons  for  this,  but  the  sufiicient  one  is  that  such  comment  as  I 
should  usually  be  able  to  make  does  not  seem  to  me  likely  to  enlighten  or 
entertain  the  reader  or  to  assist  his  selection.  Therefore  from  this  little  array 
I  shall  merely  name  two  which  impress  me  as  possessing  peculiar  distinction 
—Charles  E.  Russell's  The  Twin  Immortalities  (Hammersmark  Publishing 
Co.,  Chicago),  and  William  J.  Neidig's  The  First  Wardens  (Macmillan;  $1 
act).  The  others  are  Songs  in  Many  Keys,  by  George  Burchard  (Whitaker  & 
Ray ;  75  cents  net)  ;  Where  the  Rhododendrons  Grow,  by  Carrie  Shaw  Rice ; 
Friendship's  Fragrant  Fancies,  by  Catherine  Moriarty  (Dodge);  and  The 
Athlete's  Garland,  a  collection  of  verses  of  sport  and  pastime,  compiled  by 
Wallace  Rice  (McClurg). 

No  one  knows  better  than  the  reviewer  that  a  brusque  dismissal  of  a  whole 
shelf-ful  of  books  is  satisfactory  to  neither  author,  publisher  nor  reader.  But 
then  it  is  still  less  satisfactory  to  the  reviewer  himself;  and  he  hereby  prom- 
ise to  be  good,  and  try  not  to  get  so  far  in  arrears  that  he  will  have  to  do  it 
again. 

Charles  Amadon  Moody. 


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505 
COLTON 

By  TACIE  M,  HANNA  ' 

ITH  "old  Slover"  Mountain,  a  landmark  in  the  valley,  standing  as  a 
sentinel  a  little  to  the  southwest,  Colton,  the  Hub  City  of  Southern 
California,  a  beautiful  and  prosperous  little  city  of  manufacturing, 
business  and  homes,  lies  56  miles  east  of  Los  Angeles  near  the  center  of  the 
San  Bernardino  Valley — a  valley  almost  surrounded  by  mountains  and  said  by 
travelers  to  be  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  A  happy  selection  was 
the  local  name,  the  Hub  City.  Like  ancient  Rome,  all  roads  lead  to  Colton. 
All  the  transcontinental  railroads  in  Southern  California  must  go  through 
Colton  to  enter  the  mountain  passes  to  the  north  and  east.  All  the  public 
highways  in  the  valley  lead  to  the  Hub  City. 

In  location,  Colton  is  second  to  no  place  in  Southern  California  except  Los 
.\ngeles.     It   has   exceptional   transportation    facilities,   being   the   only   other 


A  COLTON  STRBRT  IN  WINTBR 

city  in  the  entire  southern  portion  of  the  State  which  is  on  the  main  line 
ot  three  transcontinental  railroads.  Therefore,  as  a  shipping  and  distributing 
point,  Colton  is  unequalled. 

It  is  on  the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  "Sunset  Route,"  which 
has  branch  lines  here  connecting  with  the  cities  of  Riverside,  San  Bernardino 
and  Redlands.  The  Santa  Fe  railroad  and  the  San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles  and 
Salt  Lake  railway  also  traverse  the  city.  There  is,  in  all,  an  average  of  90 
daily  trains  in  Colton,  of  which  62  are  passenger  trains.  All  trains  stop  at 
Colton. 

The  local  postoffice  receives  and  sends  out  over  40  mails  a  day,  which  is 
equivalent  to  a  mail  every  fifteen  minutes  during  the  working  hours.     The 
mail  from  numerous  points  is  transferred  here. 
Illustrations  for  this  article  are  from  photog^raphs  by  Jones  Bros.,  of  San  Bernardino. 


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50f.  O  U  r    IV  EST 


HIGH    SCHOOL 


With  such  good  railroad  facilities.  Colton  is  destined  to  be  an  important 
manufacturing  center  in  the  near  future.  Already  a  number  of  plants  have 
been  established,  and  new  ones  are  frequently  being  located  here. 

Among  these  are  the  California  Portland  Cement  Company's  large  man- 
ufacturing works  at  Slover  Mountain.  The  quality  of  Colton  cement  is 
unsurpassed,  and,  although  running  at  full  capacity,  the  demands  arc  in 
excess  of  the  output.  There  are  extensive  plans  for  the  enlarging  of  the 
plant.  Colton  cement  is  used  exclusively  in  the  artificial  stone  of  which 
the  splendid  new  Anderson  Hotel,  here  illustrated,  is  built. 

The  Colton  Marble  Works  on  Slover  Mountain  are  turning  out  the  high- 
est  grade   of   marble.     Colton    marble    is    inexhaustible.      It    will    not    stain. 


EIQHTH    STRRBT    GRAMMAR    SCHOOL 


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COLT  ON  507 


IN    THB    COLTON    PARK 


A    COLTON    ^'ORNBIt 


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508  OUT    WEST 

and  takes  a  most  brilliant  polish.  It  is  used  in  many  public  and  private 
buildings  in  Lo^  Angeles  and  San  Francisco.  The  mill  is  aiL  up-to-date 
plant,  being  well  equipped.  It  has  a  capacity  of  300  superficial  feet  of  fin- 
ished marble  per  day.  There  are  also  a  plaster  of  Paris  mill  and  four  large 
lime  kilns  on  Slover  Mountain. 

The  Globe  Milling  Co.  has  in  this  city,  a  large  and  well  equipped  mill, 
with  a  daily  capacity  of  200  barrels  of  flour,  100  barrels  of  meal  and  100 
tons  of  rolled  barley.  Colton  is  so  situated  as  to  be  at  once  a  convenient 
receiving  point  for  the  grain  fields  that  skirt  the  foothills  of  San  Bernardino 
and  adjacent  valleys,  and  a  distributing  center  for  grain  and  mill  products. 

The  Armour  Fertilizer  Works  are  on  the  outskirts  of  Colton,  the  Fruit 
Growers'  Express  have  their  repair  shops  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city, 
and  the  Standard  Oil  Company  has  established  a  large  storape  plant  and  is 
supplying  the  surrounding  cities   from  this  point.     Concrete  building  stones 


A    COLTON    HOMB 


i«  c  manufactured  here.  This  city  also  has  a  planing  mill,  gas  plant,  laundry, 
iron  works,  ice  plant  and  good  private  hospital;  owns  a  large  hall  and  its 
own  electric  light  and  water  system.  There  is  an  abundance  of  pure  artesian 
water.     All  lines  of  business  are  represented. 

Colton  is  in  the  center  of  the  orange  belt.  Here  is  the  home  v^f  the  famous 
"Colton  Terrace"  oranges,  classed  among  the  finest  fruit  in  the  market, 
ihe  city  and  the  surrounding  country  is  almost  one  continuous  citrus  grove. 
Nowhere  do  trees  attain  a  greater  size  in  a  given  number  of  years  or  pro- 
duce more  boxes  per  tree.  There  are  five  citrus  fruit  packing  houses.  Here 
is  located  the  largest  fruit  packing  house  in  the  State,  the  building  covering 
nearly  an  acre  of  ground. 

Colton  has  all  the  modern  improvements;  electric  lights,  gas,  two  telephone 
^^^stem«;,  two  newspapers,  one  daily  and  one  weekly. 


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SOME   COLTOK    HOMES 


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510  OUT    WEST 


GLOBK    MILLS 


Colton  has  excellent  street  car  service.  The  San  Bernardino  Valley  Trac- 
tion Company  connects  Colton,  Redlands,  Highland  and  San  Bernardino, 
and  already  work  has  been  commenced  on  an  electric  line  connecting  Colton 
and  Riverside. 

Although  Colton  has  a  population  of  but  3,500,  in  the  country  adjoin- 
ing and  immediately  adjacent,  there  are  fully  1,500  more  who  do  their 
trading  here,  giving  a  trading  population  of  over  5,000.  On  account  of  its 
location,  Colton  is  a  supply  station  for  miners,  and  for  railroad  stations 
on  the  desert. 

Too  much  cannot  be  said  in  praise  of  Colton  schools.  There  are  two 
large  graded  grammar  schools  and  a  high  school.  Graduates  from  the  Col- 
ton High  School  are  fully  credited  to  all  colleges. 

Seven  different  religious  denominations  have  a  home  here,  and  all  are  in 
a  prosperous  condition.     Almost  every  fraternal  lodge  is  represented. 


CALIFORNIA    PORTLAND    CEMENT    WORKS 


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COLTON  511 


A  COLTON  BUSINESS  BLOCK 

Colton  has  good  banking  facilities  and  many  up-to-date  business  houses, 
hotels,  an  opera  house,  etc.  The  splendid  Anderson  Hotel,  here  illustrated, 
will  be  completed  next  month.  It  will  be  first-class  in  all  its  appointments. 
It  will  be  open  about  December  ist. 

The  city  has  many  miles  of  oiled  streets  bordered  on  either  side  by  cement 
sidewalks  and  beautiful  shade  trees.     The  streets  are  lighted  by  electricity. 


A   COLTON   STREET 


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512  '  OUT    WEST 


COLTON   HOSPITAL 

Colton  is  a  most  healthy  city,  with  the  death  rate  exceedingly  low.  The 
doctors  say  it  is  "distressingly  healthy." 

Colton  is  far  enough  inland  to  escape  the  sea  fogs.  At  the  same  time 
we  have  the  sea  breeze.  The  climate  is  delightful  with  at  least  340  days 
of  sunshine  in  the  year.    In  summer  the  nights  are  refreshingly  cool. 

While  there  are  many  beautiful  homes  in  this  city,  it  is  a  place  where  a 


THE   NEW    ANDERSON    HOTEL 

(To  be  Opened  December  1) 


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COLTON  513 


A  COLTON   STREBT 


man  of  average  means  can  build  a  home  and  educate  his  children.  The 
prevailing  tone  of  Colton  is  for  comfort  rather  than  for  display. 

It  is  now  realized  that  in  no  place  in  Southern  California,  considering 
its  advantages,  is  property  as  cheap  as  in  Colton.  More  property  has  changed 
hands  in  the  past  year  than  in  the  preceding  ten  years. 

The  many  people  who  come  to  Colton  because  of  its  location  and  excep- 


A  COLTON  ORANOB  GROVR 


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514  OUT    WEST 


INTRBIOR  OP  OBANGB  PACKING   HOUSR 

tional  railroad  facilities  find  here  a  prosperous  little  city  with  an  inevitable 
future  of  success — an  ideal  place  for  a  home. 

And  indeed  a  beautiful  little  city  is  this — a  terraced  garden  in  Southern 
California,  with  an  abundance  of  fruit  and  flowers  the  year  round.  When 
living  here,  a  quotation  from  an  old  hymn  may  well  be  applied,  "December 
is  as  pleasant  as  May." 


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515 
RIVERSIDE 

^  F  COURSE  ther€  is  no  such  thing  as  a  fully  "typical"  Southern  Cali- 
fornia city;  each  has  its  own  characteristics,  its  own  peculiar  charm, 
even  as  one  star  differeth  from  another  star  in  glory.  Yet,  if  one 
were  obliged  to  select  a  single  place  which  should  most  nearly  represent  that 
ideal  Southern  California  of  which  most  of  us  who  are  now  here  used  to 
dream  from  afar,  he  would  be  very  apt  to  name  Riverside.  This  is  not  to 
say  that  Pasadena,  or  Redlands,  or  Santa  Barbara,  or  San  Diego,  or  any  one 
of  a  score  of  other  communities,  is  on  the  whole  a  less  desirable  place  in 
which  to  live.  That  depends  (as  Sidney  Smith  said,  to  another  question) 
altogether  on  the  liver.  Certainly  it  is  true — to  set  aside  odious  comparatives 
and  superlatives — that  Riverside  does  realize  to  the  actual  vision  just 
about  that  blend  of  the  romance  and  picturesqueness  and  peaceful  comfort 
of  the  Old,  with  the  business  enterprise  and  convenience  and  practical  pros- 
perity of  the  New,  that  "Southern  California"  means  to  the  imagination  6i 
those  who  know  it  only  by  hearsay. 

If  one  has  dreamed  of  living  among  orange  groves — why,  Riverside's  12,000 
people  have  their  homes  set  among  20,000  acres  of  orange  and  lemon  groves. 
It  is  safe  to  say  that  no  city  in  the  world  of  the  same  population — or  a  much 
brger  one — receives  so  large  an  annual  income  from  the  products  of  its  own 
soil.  Riverside  County  shipped  last  year  more  than  6,000  cars  of  oranges, 
worth  on  the  track  at  the  shipping  point  almost  $3,000,000,  and  nearly  1,000 
cars  of  lemons,  worth  more  than  half  a  million.  Small  wonder  that  River- 
side, according  to  that  standard  financial  authority,  **Bradstreet's,"  should  be 
the  richest  city  per  capita  in  the  United  States. 


BIRDS  BVB  ViSW  OP  RIVSRSIDB 


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516  OUT    WEST 


A  BIVRHSIDB  OUAMMAK  SCHOOL 


R1VBRS1DK   HIGH   SCHOOL 


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RIVERSIDE  517 


mVBIIBIDB  PUBLTC  LIBBAKY 


Is  it  irrigation  that  has  stimulated  one's  imagination — that  most  simple, 
yet  most  ingenious  device  by  which  men,  in  effect,  have  their  rain  to  order 
through  long  month  of  unbroken  sunshine?  Riverside,  through  her  fifty- 
five  miles  of  cement-lined  canals  and  nearly  i,ooo  miles  of  ditches,  pipes  and 
flumes,  pours  out  upon  her  fertile  acres  close  to  80,000,000  gallons  of  water 
a  day,  month  in  and  month  out,  through  the  thirsty  season. 

Perhaps  it  is  the  Mission  architecture  of  California  which  has  quickened 
your  fancy  most  vividly — with  the  memories  that  it  calls  up  of  the  heroic 
padres  who  gave  up  all  that  most  men  count  as  worth  living  for,  that  they 
might  bring  salvation  of  soul  and  training  of  mind  and  body  to  the  lost  and 
benighted  natives  of  this  farthest  land.  In  that  case,  Riverside  is  the  one 
place  in  the  State  where  the  Mission  note  is  most  dominant  in  both  public 
and  private  buildings.  The  illustrations  accompanying  these  paragraphs  will 
give  some  idea  of  how  the  Mission  idea  has  been  grasped  (more  or  less 
completely)  by  those  who  planned  church  and  library  and  public  buildings 
and  hotel  and  home  alike. 

It  may  be  that  the  Indian  (whose  forefathers,  under  the  direction  of  the 
padres,  built  the  Missions)  is  of  peculiar  interest  to  you,  as  he  is  caught 
young,  and  tamed,  and  educated,  according  to  the  methods  approved  of  by 
those  in  authority.  There  is  no  other  place  in  California  where  you  can  see 
so  many  Indian  children,  at  so  slight  cost  of  time  and  trouble,  as  at  Sherman 
Institute,  with  its  five  to  six  hundred  pupils. 


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518  our    W  EST 


NBW  COUNTY  BOILDING,  KIVBHSIDB 


Very  like,  it  is  just  the  balmy,  fragrant  days  of  California's  midwinter 
that  have  wooed  you  from  some  land  of  frost  and  snow,  and  you  are  looking 
for  the  best  place  in  which  to  loaf  and  invite  your  soul  through  sundry  days 
or  weeks.  Riverside  may  not  be  just  the  very  best  place  of  them  all  for  you, 
but  do  not  be  sure  of  it  until,  after  an  afternoon  of  driving  over  the  wcll-kepf 
roads  amid  beautiful  and  varied  scenery,  you  hear  at  twilight,  from  the  porch 
of  the  Glenwood  Tavern,  the  call  of  the  Mission  bells.  (This  same  Glen- 
wood  Tavern,  by  the  way — one  man's  vision  made  real  by  years  of  patient 
eflFort— is  a  hotel  not  to  be  surpassed  anywhere  for  creature  comforts,  and 
unique  in  architectural  design  and  outfitting.) 


A   RIVBRSIDB  CHUBCH 


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RIVERSIDE  519 


§  Or,  most  likely  of  all,  your 

H  dream  of  Southern   California 

■^  has   been  of  a  country  where 

^  man    or    woman    could    invest 

money,  brains  and  muscle — 
whatever  capital  there  is  to  in- 
vest— and  draw  the  very  larg- 
est dividends  in  clear  joy  of 
living.  Be  assured  that  River- 
side offers  ample  opportunities 
for  such  investment  and  sure 
promise  of  such  dividends  to 
those  of  every  honorable  occu- 
pation— always  excepting  such 
as,  say,  ice-cutting  and  ship- 
building, for  which  conditions 
are  not  favorable. 

Is  it  necessary  to  insist  on 
the  beautiful  homes,  the  refine- 
{5  ment  of  those  who  have  made 

§  the  homes,  or  the  presence  of 

«  uplifting  social,    religious    and 

educational  conditions,  in  such 
^  a  city  as  has  been  suggested  by 

S  these    scattering    and    random 

hints?  If  it  be  necessary  for 
you  who  are  reading  this  to  re- 
ceive such  assurance,  either  of 
two  ways  will  bring  it,  or,  bet- 
ter yet,  each  of  the  two,  taken 
consecutively  and  promptly. 
.  One  is  to  write  to  the  Chamber 
of  Commerce  at  Riverside  for 
some  of  the  illustrated  descrip- 
tive matter  which  it  supplies  to 
enquirers.  The  other  is  to  buy 
a  ticket  over  either  of  the 
three  transcontinental  lines 
which  reach  Riverside — the 
Santa  F6,  Southern  Pacific  or 
Salt  Lake — telegraph  to  Frank 
Miller  at  the  Glenwood  Tav- 
ern when  to  look  for  you — and 
come  to  see  for  yourself. 


^  R 


H 


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THK  GLBNWOOD  HOTEL 


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RIVERSIDE 


52] 


RUBIDOUX  DKIVB,  RUBIDOUX  HBIOBT8— A  RBCBNTLY  OPBNBD  RB8IDBNCB  DISTRICT 


IN    A   RIVBRSIDB  ORANGB  GROVB 


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MAR    I    1918 


/^T  T>'tX£!br^b 


A   Magaasine   of  ttie  Old   Pacific  and  ttie   Neiv 

CHAS,  F,  LUMMIS  ) 

CHARLES  AM  ADO  J^  MOODYS^^^^^^^ 
SHARLOT  M.  HALL,  Assistant  Editor 


Among  ths  Stockho]:j>brs  and  Conteibutors  ars: 


DAVID  STARR  JORDAN 

President  of  Stanford  UniTertlty 
FREDERICK  STARR 

ChlcaiTo  UoiTersitj 
THEODORE  H.  HITTSLIi 

The  flUtorian  of  California 
MART  HALLOCK  FOQTE 

Author  of  *^The  Led-Horee  Claim,**  etc 
MARGARET  COLLIER  GRAHAM 

Author  of  ^Stories  of  the  Foothills** 
GRACE  ELLERT  CHANNING 

Author  of  '^The  Sister  of  a  Saiat,**  etc 
ELLA  HIGGINSON 

Author  of  "A  Forest  Orchid,**  etc 
CHARLES  WARREN  STODDARD 

The  Poet  of  the  South  Seas 
INA  COOLBRITH 

Author  of  **Soairs  from  the  Goldea  Gate,**  etc 
EDWIN  MARKHAM 

Author  of  **The  Man  with  the  Hoe** 
JOAQUIN  MILLER 

The  Poet  of  the  Sierras 
BATTERMAN  LINDSAY 

CHARLES  FREDERICKHOLDER 

Author  of  *rrhe  Life  of  Agassis,**  etc 
CHAa  DWIGHT  WILLARD 

CONSTANCE  GODDARD  DU  BOIS 

Author  of  '*Tbe  Shield  of  the  Flenr  de  Lis** 


WILLIAM  E.  SMTTHE 

Author  of  **The  Conquest  of  Arid 


DR.  WASHINGTON  MATTHEWS 

Ex-Prest.  American  Folk-Lore  Societj 
WILLIAM  KEITH 

The  Greatest  Weatem  Palater 
CHARLES  A.  KEELER 

LOUISE  M.  KEELER 

GEO.  PARKER  WINSHIP 

The  HlstDrian  of  Coronad<^s  Msprhee 
FREDERICK  WEBB  HODGE 

of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  Washluffton 
GEO.  HAMLIN  FITCH 

Literary  Editor  S.  F.  Ckr^mielt 
ALEX.  F.  HARMER 

CHARLOTTE  PERKINS  STETSON  GILMAN 

Author  of  **Ia  This  Onr  World* 
CHAS.  HOWARD  SHINN 

Author  of  **The  Story  of  the  Mine,**  etc 
T.  S.  VAN  DYKE 

Author  of  **Rod  and  Gun  In  California*"  etc 
MARY  AUSTIN 

Author  of  *^he  Land  of  Littla  RalM** 
L.  MAYNARD  DIXON 

ELIZABETH  AND  JOSEPH  GRINNELL 

Authors  of  ^Onr  Feathered  Frieada** 


Contents — December,    1905 

A  Laod  of  Mystery,  illustrated,  by  Dr.  F.  M.  Palmer 525 

Prayer  of  the  Bound,  poem,  by  Ethel  Griffltll 538 

Reviving  an  Aacient  Craft,  illustrated 539 

Ties,  illustrated,  by  Margaret  Troili *. 545 

The  Mirage,  poem,  by  Theresa  Russell 550 

An  Oasis,  illustrated,  by  Alen  Owen 551 

The  Fruit  of  the  Yucca  Tree,  by  Sharlot  M.  Hall 569 

The  Shfckinah,  poem,  by  Frederick  Hall 575 

The  Redwood  King,  story,  by  Geor^je  Burchard 576 

"Irish  Divils,"  story,  by  M.  W.  Loraiiie 580 

In  The  Lion's  Den  (by  the  Editor) 587 

The  Southwest  Society,  Archsological  Institute  of  America 595 

The  Sequoya  lyeague,  **To  Make  Better  Indians" 598 

The  Landmarks  Club 599 

That  Which  Is  Written  (reviews  by  C.  A.  Moody) 600 

Stockton,  illustrated,  by  Colvin  B!  Brown \ 603 

Long  Beach  illustrated,  by  Harriet  Hardin  Gage 613 

San  Jacinto,  illustrated,  by  Francis  Miner  Moody 621 


Copyriarht  1905.    Entered  at  the  Los  Adseles  PoRtoffice  as  secoad-class  matter     (Sbb  Publishbr's  Paob) 


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'•THE    QUALITY    STORE" 


Headquarters 
for  Boys'  ^ 
Clothes  js^  js> 


Everything  that  boys  wear,  except  shoes,  in  endless 
and  beautiful  assortment.  Prices  the  lowest  when 
quality  is  considered. 


Mullen  &  Bluett  Clothing  Co. 

FIRST    AND     SPRING    STREETS    LOS    ANGELES,    CALIFORNIA 


De-IL^hted 

Agency    "KNOX"     Hats 

We  are— to  be  able  to  offer 
such  attractive  articles  for 
holiday  trade  as  we  now 
have  in  stock.     The  useful 
and    attractive    combined 
would   better    express   it. 
Novelties    in    Furniture 
and   Draperies  are  a 
specialty  with  us. 

Broadway  Drapery  and 
Furniture  Co. 

Complete  showinff  of  Ladies  Tailored  Hat«  of 

"UN  OX" 

make  in  designs  and  models  of  only  one  of  a 
kind.    Exclusively  at  the  establishment  of 

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^  PoMr  CoUece  Courses  leftding  to  degrca  of  a.  b..  Ph.  b.,  Sc. 

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THE  WASHBURN  SCHOOL  (Accredited) 

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GItw  Boys  and  Gtrli  a  thorough  preparation  for  tiie  Icadlac  CoUccea 
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with  40  fnll  paares  in  colors  of  our  most  common  birds. 
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Shells  ef  Land  and  Water— by  Frank  Collins  Baker,  4to,  price  $2.50.    An  intro- 
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ABC  Book  Of  Birds  -by.Mary  Catherine  Judd,  with  Nonsense  Rhymes  for  little  ones,  and  Prosy  Sense 

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«•■"••       LITERATURE  500  Questions  and  Answers  in  Engrllsh  and  Literature 40 

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KATE  DOUGLAS  WIGGINS 

ROSE  0'  THE  RIVER 

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Howard  Pyle*s  illustrated  Christinas  Edition  of  Holmes*s 

ONE-HOSS  SHAY 

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(limo,  V.60.) 

The  Humorous  Book  of  the  Year 
E.  BOYD  SMITHES 

STORY  OF  NOABTS  ARK 

FOR  GROWN-UIPS 


The  log  of  the  Ark's  cruise,  in  pictorial  form,  in  which  26 
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Noah  and  his  Floating  Zoo  ;  The  Ark  Builders  on  a  Strike ; 
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niustrated  Holiday  Bulletin  sent^  free^  an  request. 

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AUtUpartmgmU  of  a  modtm  hanking  busmtst  conducted 

TNC 

National  Bank  of  California 

at  LOS  ANGELES 

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John  M.  C.  Marble,  Pres. 

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Bmil  Rohte,  Second  Vice-President 

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C.  B.  Hobson,  Assistant  Cashier 

DIRBCTOK8 

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'Theosophy  and 
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113  Boice  Builiing,  Chicago,  Illinois.  U.  S.  A. 


this  industry,  in  this 
respect.  T  pos^o^*  an  advantage  over  most  of  ray 
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that  everv  good  cigar  smoker  comes  from  Mi»> 
souri,  and  must  be  shown.  That  is  what  I  pro- 
pose to  do.  The  rules  of  the  Revenue  Department 
prevent  me  sending  a  smaller  package  of  cigars 
than  12,  as  that  ii  the  smallest  aenominated  stamp 
Uncle  Sam  prints,  so  I  pack  any  and  every  grade 
of  cigar  in  a  sample  box  of  12,  and  will  send  one 
box  of  any  or  every  grade  to  any  prospective 
customer  once. 

These  sample  boxes  are  put  up  and  distributed 
in  this  form  at  an  actual  loss  in  order  to  intro- 
duce our  cigars  to  the  public,  therefore  we  must 
limit  each  to  one  sample  box.  We  would  send  40 
different  grades  to  one  person,  but  not  two 
sample  boxes   of  the  same  grade. 

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per    100.      We   ^arantee   all   our   goods. 

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booklet.   entiMed   Cuban   Cigars. 


L 


J.  M.  &  P.  A.  MAYORGA 

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color  and  size,  and  we  wil 
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L  50  Cents 


OPAL  CREAM  CX). 

311  S.  nsucro*  St  Lm  Anjeki.  Cal. 

If  yonr  dnicrttt  doe*  not  taaTe  it,  send  hi* 
—  aad  addrew  and  tret  a  fall  site  Jar  for 


■aasiaaw    ^B««a     •»%■«•  a  t>ias     aaaai 

half  the  reffular  price. 


For 


Health 
Happiness 

Home 


and  a 


Com*  to 


Southern  California 

Write  for  laformatioo  and  illutrated  printed 
matter*  enclosing  a  5c  stamp,  to  the 

CKamber  of  Commerce 
Lo8  Angeles  Cal. 


Mothers! 
Mothers!! 
Mothers!!! 

MRS.  WIRSLOrS  SOOTHIRS  SYRUP 


for   OTer  SIXTY  TSARS  by 

MILIiIONS  of  MOTHERS  for  their  CHIIr 
DRBN  while  TSSTHIN6,  with  PSRPBCT 
SUCCBSS.  It  SOOTHES  the  CHILD.  SOFT- 
ENS the  GUMS,  ALLAYS  all  PAIN,  CURES 
WIND  COLIC,  and  ie  the  best  remedy  for 
DIARRHCEA.  Sold  by  all  Dnifff  ists  in  every 
part  of  the  world.  Be  sure  snd  ask  for  **  Mrs. 
Winslow's  Soothihff  Symp,**  and  take  no  other 
kind.    Twenty-five  cents  a  bottle. 


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m  Trees — shoes 
id  wrinkles  form 
Iry  out  bard  axid 
re  helpful  to  pcr- 

Trees  keep  yoar 
pely  and  smooth 


uUble  levom^  tbe  tree 
•dttoBinthesboe.  Hlace 
Mne  and  bad  imitaxloas 


I 


FOR  SALB  BV 

C.M.StmnbCo..n5 
B.Bd«7.L«Aiiecles 

Wcfttherbr  -  Kavser 
ShoeCo..Sl5S.Bdw9L 
Lo9Aiiirelc9:WE.Col- 
orado  St .  Psadcaa. 

RoMBthal  Bros^ 
line ).  ItT  Kcaniejr 
St .  San  Francisco. 


Hipolito  SaeeD  and  Sisk  (o. 

(incobpobatbd) 

Removable  Window  Screens,  Hiffh  Grade  Screen 

Doors,  Patent  Reyersable  Windows 

Ofnce  and  rsetory:  634-^38  Maple  Ave. 

P'«>»-§o*i.VI{£.  LOSANCCLCS 


'HiG  SpBaiaJ  ^i^plai/^  of 
HoIicLcu/  J\4erchajJcUo€^ 
euzit  the  iscu^ing^  to  Ae 
macLe  /rv  CcUl/hrntais 
Orcunde^t  Chri^tma,^ 
tStor'B^  arejvortk  ircLveJ^ 
inff  majw  mi/BfS^ybjn. — 


Nathan's  Vantilatino  Corset  Ankle  Supports  (patosted) 

for  weak,  sprained  or  wrenched 
ankles.  Invisible  and  can  be  worn 
witli  low  shoes.  Gives  proper  »tip- 
port  for  oollino  and  all  athletics,  ssd 
or  children  loarnlng  to  Mlk. 

Recommended  by  physicians.  Seat 
post  paid  on  receipt  of  price.    ■es'S 

$1.00,  ladies'  90c,  misses'  80c.  children's  50c  per  psir. 

State  siee  of  shoe  and  ankle  measures. 

Dept.  0.  W.  1126  Washington  St^.  Oakland.  Cal. 


:{iiiii4Miai!iis 


STO WELL  A  €0.«  Mf rs. 


r^efforAStbHL 

Sold  by  sD  Dmggtns, 
or  by  malL  Si  eenU. 
Gharlestown,  Mbm. 


BAMBS   TRICYCLB    COMPANY 


ill 
IP 


C    B 

is 

S3 

M 

:    B 
5*8 


Office  and  Factory.  2018  Market  St,  San  Francisco 

TYPEWRITERS 


NEW 
USED 
RENTAL 
REPAIRS 

supplies 
Metcalf  &  Wilson  «~ 

122   122 A  N.  Broadway,  Loa  Ang«Ua 


M 

A 
I 

N 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


SOZODONT 

TOOTH  POWDER 


I 


a  delicious  dentifrice. 
Free  from  acid  and  grit. 
Just  the  thing  for  those 
who  have  an  inclination 
for  the  niceties  of  every- 
day life.  Ask  your  dentist. 


I 


Ideal  for  Bathing  the  Face,  Neck  and  Hands 

It  clcames  the  iklo  of  soil  and  oily  waste.  InpfOTcs  the  circulation, 
builds  up  the  muscles  and  smooths  out  the  wiinkles.  Ideal  for 
softealng  the  beard  before  shaving.  Price  mailed.  tS  cents. 
Accept  no  others.    Beware  of  Imlutions. 

BaileT^t  Rubber  Complczioo  Bruah  . 
Bailey's  Cocnpkzion  Soap  . 
Batfer^s  Bath  and  Shampoo  Bruah  . 
Baller'a  Rubber  Bath  and  Flcah  Brudi 
Baller't  Rubber  ToUet  Bruah  (large) 
Batter's  Rubber  ToUet  Brush  (smaU) 
Bailer's  Rubber  Glove  Cleaner 


ClesBS  the  teeth  perfrctly  and  polishes  the  enamel  without  injury. 
Never  Irritates  the  gums.  Can  be  used  with  any  tooth  wash  or 
powder.  Ideal  for  children's  use.  Nobristlestocomeout.  No.  1, 
iSc  I  No.  t.  16c.    Mailed  on  receipt  of  price. 

jIt  dttUtrs  tr  sent  #m  rteei^t  0/^ric«.    Agtni*  wanttd. 

C.  J  Bailey  &  Co.,  22  Boylston  St.,  Boston,  Mast. 


gloYT  in  th«  face  of  the  woman  who 
uses 

Lablache  Face  Powder 

It  insures  a  clear,  fresh,  brilliant  com- 
plexion, and  preserves  the  velvety 
texture  of  youth.    //  never  disappoints. 

Take  no  other.  Flesh,  white,  pink,  cream 
tints,  £0c.  a  box.  Drnirirists  or  by  mail.  Send 
IOC.  for  sample. 

BEN.  LEVY  &  CO. 

French  Perfumers 

Df^pt.  4,  126  Kingeton  8t  ,  Boelon 


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Lea  &  Peppins* 
Sauce 

THE   ORIGINAL   WORCESTERSHIRE 

The  Peerless  Seasoning 

Rare  piquancy  Is  given  to  Chafing  Dish 
cooking  by  using 

LEA  &  PERRINS'  SAUCE 

The    Original  and    Genuine  Worcestershire 

has  never  been  successfully  imitated.  Lea 
&  Perrins'  Sauce  was  in  universal  use  a 
generation  before  any  other  so-called 
Worcestershire  was  ever  heard  of.  There 
is  no  other  like  it.     It  is  First  and  Best. 


CAUTION.— TiM 


John  Duncan's  Spat,  Agent*,  Kew  York. 


-^ 


C.   F.   a.    L'AST 

WINE  MERCHANT 


Tbe  purity  of  all  ffoods  giuiraiiteed.     No 
adulterations  or  Imitations  carried  la 
stock.    Tbe  safest  place  to 
bay  yonr 

Wines  and  Liquors 

TRY  IT 


139  AMD   131   NORTH   MXIN 
LOB    AMOBLBB,  CXL. 


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PieaM  Mention  that  You  Saw  it  In  OUT  WEST. 


DRINK 


mm  I  mm 

BREWERY 


LAGER-BEERS 

The  best  and  purest  brewed  on  the  Coast 
For  sale  in  bottles  and  ke^s. 

Teleptiones:  Sunset— Main  91 
Home  91 


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LOS  ANGELES 
GAS  HISTORY 

Dec.  1st,  1889.  ras  reduced  to $2.25 

Mar.    ••    1890       "  **        2.00 

Jnly    "    1895       "  **        1.90 

Jnly    "1896       *•  "         1.75 

Jnly    "    1898       "  **        1.65 

Jan.     *•    1900       •*  "        1.60 

Jnly     "    1900        **  "         1.50 

Jnly     "1901        "  "        1.25 

Jan.     "    1902       "  "        LOO 

Oct.     "    1903       "  "        95 

Jan.     *•    1905       "  "  90 

ON  JANUARY  IST.  1906 

We  will  make  a  rednction  of  fiye  cents 

per  thousand,  making  the  rate 

86  CENTS 

Los  Angeles  Gas  and  Electric 
Company 

Hill,  near  Seveatb 


CASTEIN  CNBOUMCNT  OFFICE.  Deft  IC  209  nrkm^ 
Mvd.,  SciwiKcUiJNiLY. 

WE  MAKE  'EM  SOL  WORKS  'EM 

OUR  BUSINESS 

To  fnrnish  Hot  Water  by  Sunahliie 
with  onr 

Improved  Climax 

Solar  Water 

Heater 

W  hy  bnrn  fuel  ?       Sunshine  is  free. 

No  Explosion.    No  Danger. 

No  Expense. 

DON'T  LET  YOUR  ARCHITECT 
FORGET  THE  SOLAR  HEATER 

SOLAR  HEATER  CO. 

A.  D.  Davis,  M^r. 

330  New  Hlih  St., 

Los  Anieles,  Cal. 

,gX4^^^  Phon*  2396      Writk  Foa  an  Ao»kcy 


Reliable  help   promptly  furnished.  ^H^i;;^^^'    ^"^  *  ^-  ***•  ^**"  ^' 


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MATURED 

Standard 
Bred 

EM. 

S2.00 
p«r  13 
January 
to 
July 

Barred  PlxmoutH 
RocKs 

Li^Ht  DraHmas 

Duff  Orpingtons 

S.  C.W.  l^e^homs 

• 

ONLY  blrd«  tHat  Havo  MOULTED 
aro  u«odl   a«   Broodlor« 

A  LUBTED  AMOUNT  of  CHOKE  STOCK  f»  SALE 

CAPTAIN    MITCHELL 

Santa  Batbata,  CaL 


iAT  ClIRlSTHAS 
TlH£ 


tThe  Housekeeper's 

interest  centers  on  her  din- 
ing table,  the  chief  charm 
of  which  is  the  Silver.  To 
make  it  do  its  duty  perfect- 
ly, it  should  bo  cleaned  with 


gLEC 

XL  .Silver} 


,  then  its  latent  beauty  or  brilliancy  will  ap- 
f  pear,  crowning  the  effort  of  the  hostess. 

At  Rroo«n.drngciRt8,and  postoaid,  16  eta. 

(•Umps).   Trial  quantity  for  tlie  asking. 
Hedr^-SilleHi  Silver  Saa»  for  waahing  and 
poliatiina  bilver  haa  eqaal  meriu.  Ifioanta. 

•  *SXUC0N , "  M)  Cliff  St..  New  York.  b!S3-- 

RCDINGTON  &  CO.,  SAN  FRANCISCO 
WholeMle  ASenU  for  Poolfic  Coast 


A  Glenwood  Range 

Mak«3  cookinsr  EASY.    BAKES 
to  perfection.    ECONOMIZES 
fuel. 

Over  3500  in  use  in  Los  Angeles 
and  vicinity 


The  following  are  a  few  out  of  hundreds  of 
testimonials  in  our  possession  : 

In  oar  optnlon  the  Glenwood  Ranee  haa  more  merit  than  anythino*  else  on  the  market.  It  is  the  t>e8t 
cooker  that  we  have  eyer  had  in  our  honse  daring  thirty  years*  experience  in  housekeeping.  It  is  eco- 
nomical in  the  use  of  fnel  and  is  satisfactory  in  erery  respect.  NrvatU  Mathews^  2103  Union  Are. 

We  are  pleased  with  the  Glenwood  Ranire,  and  do  not  hesitate  to  recommend  it  to  any  one  wanting  a 
coal  or  wood  stove.    It  bakes  fine  and  is  economical.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  E,  K,  Green^  1504  W.  8th.  St. 

We  find  the  Glenwood  Ran^e  satisfactory  in  every  respect.  /.  A.  Lothian^  530  South  Hill  St. 

iThe  Glenwood  Ranire  we  purchased  of  you  is  a  rood  cooker  and  baker  and  very  economical  in  the  use 
of  fuel,  and  works  perfectly  satisfactory  in  all  respects.  Nue$  Pea$e^  719  South  Hill  St. 

Havlnff  used  a  Glenwood  Ran^e  for  years,  and  always  found  it  satisfactory  in  every  particular,  I 
cheerfully  recommend  it  to  any  one  wanting  a  ffood,  reliable  stove.        Geo.  W.  StockvttU^  40^  W.  28th  St. 


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$5-oo     I1.50 


Is  die  kind  of  Christ- 
mas present  the  re- 
cipient will  be  glad  to 
get;  the  kind  you  will 
be  glad  to  have  given. 
If  die  pen-point  does 
not  exactly  suit,  the 
pen  will  be  exchanged 
cheerfully  at  any  of 
our  branches,  or  your 
dealer  who  sells  the 
genuine  can  get  you 
the  pen  desired. 

L.  E.  WATERMAN  CO. 
1 73  Broadway,  New  York 

160  state  St.,  Chicago 

8  School  St.,  Boston 

I  )8 Montgomery  Sti,  San  Francisco 

i]6  St.  Jamea  St.,  Montreal 


'^4  00      »s.oo 


SUBSCRiBED   OARITAL       - 
PAID-IN    OARITAL  -  - 

PROFIT    AND    RESERVE    FUND 
MONTHLY    INOOME 


S/7,000,000 

450,0db 
200,000 


The  Largest  G)-operative  Bank  in  the  United  States* 
Pays  6  per  cent  on  Term  Deposits,  and 
5  per  cent«  on  Ordinary  Deposits* 


HOME  OFHCE:  301  California  St*,  San  Francisco,  California 

DR.  WASHINGTON  DODGE,  Pm.  WVL  CORBIN,  Sec^y  and  Geof  Mgr. 

L  C  PERRY,  Field  M^Lfutgeff  Investment  Dept.,  254  So.  Broadwayt  Lot  Aogekst  GaL 


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Formerly 


TH«   Land   mf  Sun«Hix 


THE  NATION  BACK  OF  US,  THE  WORLD  IN  FRONT. 


V6L  XXm,    No.  6.  DECEMBER,  1905. 

Copyright  1905.  by  Out  WMt  Magazin*  Co.    All  right*  reserved. 

A  LAND  or  MYSTERY 

By  DR.  K  M.  PALMER. 

1^ jfjl  T  CAN  truthfully  be  stated  of  a  man  able  to 

H  B        p'*^y  while  he  works,  to  merge  vocation  with 

S  1}        avocation,  that  his   lines   are   surely  cast  in 

^  ^*-        pleasant  places.     He  knows  how  good  it  is 

to  be  alive. 

A  full  realization  of  this  truth  was  brought 
home  to  me  when,  during  the  past  summer,  it 
became  at  once  my  duty  and  privilege  to  con- 
duct (on  behalf  of  the  Southwest  Society, 
A.  I.  A.)  an  investigation  of  certain  pre-his- 
toric  ruins  in  Navajo  County,  Arizona.  For  many  years  I  had 
looked  with  longing  eyes  toward  that  storm-riven,  wind-swept, 
sun-burned  land ;  a  land  in  the  fashioning  of  which  the  hand  of 
the  Creator  has  not  as  yet  eradicated  all  evidence. of  the  mighty 
forces  employed  in  making  a  world — 2i  land  of  mystery,  whose 
valleys,  mountain  peaks  and  appalling  gorges  at  some  time  in  the 
remote  past  afforded  home  and  shelter  to  a  race  of  men  whose 
bones,  cradled  in  her  jealous  bosom,  enwrapped  in  a  meshwork  of 
roots  of  pines  and  cedars  hundreds  of  years  old,  are  slowly 
crumbling  into  nothingness. 

In  common  with  most  of  the  native  races  of  America,  it  was 
the  custom  of  these  people  to  place  in  the  grave  all,  or  most  of, 
the  personal  effects  of  the  deceased.  And  it  is  by  an  examination 
of  the  contents  of  these  ancient  cemeteries  that  we  obtain  most  of 
our  information  with  relation  to  prehistoric  races.  ^ 

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««4 


•4 

o 

H 

s 

SB 


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A  LAND  OF  MYSTERY  527 

The  researches  conducted  by  the  Southwest  Society  in  its 
field  expeditions  are  under  the  auspices  of  the  Archaeological 
Institute  of  America,  through  the  supervisory  direction  of  its 
committee  on  American  Archaeology. 

The  hope  is  probably  ever-present  in  the  hearts  of  all  Ameri- 
can archaeologists  that  some  tangible  evidence  may  be  found 
that  shall  measurably  raise  the  curtain  of  profound  mystery  that 
is  suspended  between  the  men  of  today,  and  the  men  who  evolved 
that  wonderful  culture  pertaining  to  the  ancient  Pueblos  and 
Cliff  Dwellers  of  the  Southwest.  Directly,  it  was  earnestly 
hoped  that  these  researches  might  result  in  collections  (for  our 
Southwest  Museum)  representing  and  illustrating  the  degree 
of  civilization  attained  by  these  people. 

After  careful  consideration,  and  in  view  of  the  fact  that  the 
territory  in  which  I  was  permitted  to  make  explorations  was 
limited,  I  settled  upon  the  Mormon  town  of  Snowflake  as  a  base 
from  which  to  conduct  operations. 

A  twenty-four  hours'  ride  on  the  Santa  Fe,  and  we  arrived  at 
Holbrook.  Leaving  the  train  at  this  point,  we  were  met  by  a 
brother  of  one  of  my  assistants.  He  had,  in  response  to  a  tele- 
gram, procured  a  team  and  spring  wagon;  we  soon  had  every- 
thing aboard,  and  started  on  a  thirty-five  mile  ride  due  south  to 
Snowflake.  The  country  between  Holbrook  and  Snowflake  is 
practically  a  desert.  There  is  no  farming  of  any  kind;  a  few 
stunted  junipers  here  and  there  only  serve  to  accentuate  the 
severity  of  the  landscape.  We  arrived  at  our  destination  about 
four  p.  m.  This  little  Mormon  town  presents  a  most  marked 
contrast  to  the  barrenness  of  the  country  through  which  we  had 
all  day  been  traveling.  As  is  customary  in  all  of  their  settle- 
ments, trees  are  planted  along  both  sides  of  all  its  streets,  poplar 
and  locust  being  the  varieties  used.  These  trees  are  boun- 
tifully and  continually  supplied  with  water,  as  the  result  of 
another  admirable  custom  of  these  people.  On  either  side  of  all 
streets,  canals  about  three  feet  in  width  are  kept  filled  with 
running  water.  Snowflake  has  a  population  of  about  six  hun- 
dred ;  three  stores,  public  schools  and  an  academy.  Many  of  the 
houses,  and  all  public  buildings,  are  of  brick,  which  are  of  home 
manufacture.  From  what  I  was  able  to  observe,  1  am  of  the 
opinion  that  prosperity  has  rewarded  the  undoubted  energy  and 
perseverance  of  these  people. 

The  day  following  my  arrival,  Mr.  T.  J.  Worthington,  who  had 
formerly  been  a  resident  of  Snowflake,  but  who  is  now  living  in 
Los  Angeles,  and  at  the  time  was  one  of  my  assistants,  intro- 
duced me  to  a  number  of  the  leading  men  of  the  town.  I  recall 
with  pleasure  the  fact  that  I  was  most  courteously  received  by 

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Google 


A  LAND  OF  MYSTERY  529 

them  all — they  expressed  themselves  as  being  desirous  of  assist- 
ing me  to  a  successful  issue  of  my  undertaking. 

Several  days  were  required  in  which  to  get  our  outfit  together. 
Finally,  however,  tents,  bedding,  photographic  instruments, 
cooking  utensils,  tools  for  making  excavations,  provisions,  etc., 
etc.,  were  all  loaded  on  the  wagons.  Then,  all  hands  climbing 
aboard,  at  last  we  were  off. 

I  had  selected  a  large  ruin  twenty-five  miles  south  of  Snow- 
flake,  located  on  patented  land,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
Forest  Reserves,  as  an  objective  point  for  our  first  endeavor. 

It  was  an  all  day*s  ride,  the  latter  half  of  which  was  through 
mountain  passes,  surrounded  on  every  hand  by  towering  rocky 
heights  nearly  hidden  from  view  by  a  magnificent  growth  of 
pines,  many  of  which  are  more  than  150  feet  in  height.  Its 
forestation  is  the  one  thing  which  makes  Arizona  possible  as  a 
residence  for  civilized  man.  A  strict  maintenance  in  perpetuity 
of  Forest  Reserves  in  this  Territory  is  an  absolute  essential.  If 
I  possessed  the  requisite  power,  not  for  a  thousand  years  should 
another  tree  be  cut. 

We  arrived  at  the  scene  of  our  intended  researches  about  5 
p.  m.,  and  made  our  camp  beneath  an  immense  pine  tree. 

I  employed  additional  men  to  assist  in  the  digging,  and  started 
operations  the  following  day,  Sept.  6th. 

This  ruin  is  situated  on  an  outcropping  of  sandstone  which 
has  an  elevation  of  about  20  feet  above  the  surrounding  country. 
Judging  from  the  amount  of  fallen  stone,  the  pueblo  must  cer- 
tainly have  been  two,  and  possibly  three,  stories  high.  The 
ruin  is,  however,  complete;  not  one  stone  resting  in  position 
upon  another  above  the  present  surface  of  the  ground.  The 
stone  of  which  the  pueblo  had  been  constructed  was  probably 
taken  from  the  very  outcropping  upon  which  it  was  built.  These 
stones  were  of  varying  thickness — 2^/2  to  8  inches,  the  sides  and 
ends  being  rudely  squared.  They  had  originally  been  held  in 
proper  position  in  the  building  by  a  mortar  which  appears  to  be 
a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand.  This  description  may  be  taken  as 
typical  of  all  ruins  in  this  locality,  save  only  in  size  and  the 
probable  number  of  stories. 

I  examined  more  than  eighty  ruins,  and  in  no  case  did  I  find 
any  part  of  the  wall  standing  above  ground.  But  only  in  part 
is  this  utter  devastation  to  be  attributed  to  natural  causes.  Men 
now  living  in  the  section  where  these  ruins  are  found  have  told 
me  that  the  destruction  has  been  greater  in  the  last  ten  than  in  the 
preceding  twenty  years — by  vandal  relic-hunters,  ravages  of 
stock,  and  last  but  by  no  means  least,  the  despoliation  of  these 
ancient  monuments  by  people  living  near  them.     The  walls  are 


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A  LAND  OF  MYSTERY  531 

thrown  down,  the  stones  hauled  away  and  used  in  private  resi- 
dences, and  even  for  public  buildings.  It  is  a  Godsend  that  they 
are  not  permitted  to  lay  their  sacrilegious  hands  upon  any  part  of 
that  which  still  remains  under  control  of  the  National  Gov- 
ernment. 

On  the  morning  of  September  6th,  I  put  two  men  at  work 
clearing  away  the  debris  at  a  point  where  I  was  able  to  locate 
what  appeared  to  be  outlines  of  two  rooms.  1  also  put  three 
men  at  work  running  trenches  in  what  seemed  a  likely  location 
for  the  burial  place.  Both  surmises  proved  to  be  correct.  In 
the  collapsing  of  the  walls  of  the  building,'  a  part  had  fallen  in 
upon  the  lower  story,  a  part  outwardly  and  banked  up  on  the 
outside;  the  elements  had  disintegrated  the  mortar,  which,  with 
drifting  soil,  and  the  accumulation  of  vegetable  mold,  had  finally 
effected  such  a  change  that  at  this  moment  the  ruin  presents  the 
appearance  of  an  elongated,  irregularly  shaped  mound,  partially 
covered  with  rudely  squared  blocks  of  sandstone.  After  clearing 
away  so  as  to  be  able  to  define  the  outlines  of  the  rooms  selected 
for  examination,  excavation  was  carried  on  until  everything 
they  contained  was  brought  to  light. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  work  in  the  trenches  was  progressing, 
and  toward  sundown  the  burial  place  was  located.  But  so  far 
as  adding  anything  to  the  collection  for  our  Museum  is  cgn- 
cerned,  we  might  as  well  not  have  found  it.  The  most  of  the 
bones  were  crumbled  almost  to  the  point  of  annihilation,  and  the 
semi-sandy  clay  and  ashes  in  which  the  burials  were  made  had 
hardened  into  what  was  practically  concrete.  After  two  days  of 
hard  work,  without  being  able  to  save  a  single  specimen,  I  took 
the  men  away  from  the  trenches  and  had  them  assist  in  excavat- 
ing rooms.  In  the  rooms  the  conditions  were  little,  if  any, 
better  than  in  the  burial  place.  Shovels  were  absolutely  useless, 
except  for  throwing  out  the  dirt  which  had  first  been  laboriously 
detached  by  use  of  the  pick-axe.  We  secured  a  number  of  speci- 
mens in  these  rooms,  but  every  one  of  them  was  cut  out  of  its 
hard  resting  place  with  a  butcher  knife. 

One  of  these  rooms  is  7  feet  7  inches  long;  6  feet  9  inches  wide ; 
and  now  (to  the  surface)  5  feet  3  inches  high.  The  one  shown 
in  the  photograph  is  10  feet  6  inches  long;  9  feet  4  inches  wide; 
4  feet  II  inches  high,  all  being  inside  measurements.  The  walls 
are  about  20  inches  thick,  and  have,  of  course,  lost  something  of 
their  height.  The  fireplace  was  found  placed  in  the  center  of 
each  room.  I  found  no  evidence  of  doors  or  windows;  the 
entrance  was  probably  placed  originally  at  the  top.  The  floors  in 
these  rooms  were  of  rough  sandstone  slabs,  covered  with  a  mix- 
ture of  clay  and  ashes  to  a  depth  of  about  6  inches.     This  ruin 


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532  OUT    WEST 

measures,  over  all,  320  feet  in  length,  80  feet  in  width,  with  what 
now  appears  to  have  been  a  large  central  court.  The  difficulty 
of  doing  the  work  at  this  ruin  was  so  great,  and  the  proceeds 
for  our  Museum  so  small,  that  I  concluded  to  look  for  a  more 
promising  field.     The  entire  appropriation  at  our  disposal  would 

not  do  one-half  the  work  re- 


D 


ig   quired  for  a  thorough  inves- 
S   tigation. 

^       The    objects    taken    from 

I   these  rooms,  shown  in  illus- 

I  tration,  p.  528,  consist  of  five 

^   implements  made  from  deer 

horns ;      three      implements 

made  from  leg  bones  of  deer ; 

four  other  bones;  one  large 

bone  chisel ;  two  stones  used 

in    smoothing    pottery;    ten 

stone    knives;    one    grooved 

arrow-shaft  straightener.    In 

the  rooms  and  burial  place 

g  we  found  sixty  pieces  of  pot- 

§   tery;    but    were    unable    to 

^  save  any  of  it.    On  the  sur- 

Q   face  of  the  ground  one  bead 

made  of  what  appears  to  be 

>  **Catlinite"  was  found;  also 

thirty  arrow  points. 

No  regularity  with  rela- 
tion to  position  was  ob- 
served in  the  burials.  The 
graves  had  been  made  about 
three  and  one-half  feet  in 
depth.  Pottery  was  invari- 
ably found  near  the  head, 
sometimes  at  one  side  only; 
again  on  both ;  yet  again  on 
both,  and  at  the  top.  Some- 
times, though  more  rarely, 
an  additional  piece  was 
found  near  the  hips,  or  at 
the  feet. 

From  September  nth  to 
15th  I  visited  a  number  of 
ruins,  but  found  in  each  in- 
stance that  I  had  been  pre- 
ceded   by    others    who    had 

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A  LAND  OF  MYSTERY  533 

made  more  or  less  thorough 

I  research.     In  every  case  the 

"I  burial  place  had  been  looted ; 

i3  in  fact,  the  only  apparent  ob- 

1  ject  of  those  who  had  com- 

1  mitted  these  depredations 
5  was  to  obtain  pottery  from 

the  graves.  There  were  no 
evidences  whatever  of  any 
scientific  work,  save  only 
that  which  I  was  informed 
had  been  performed  by  rep- 
resentatives of  the  Govern- 
^   ment. 

g  September  15th  we  lo- 
3  cated  two  small  ruins  that 
5  are  situated  on  a  sandstone 
3  ridge  about  five  miles  long, 
o  and  having  a  dense  growth 
^  of  junipers.  Many  of  these 
0  trees  are  more  than  three 
o   feet  in  diameter.    One  of  my 

>  photographs  shows  such  a 
S  tree  growing  in  the  center 
-  of  a  room.  These  two  ruins 
g   are  separated  by  about  1,500 

>  feet.  I  have  designated  them 
«   as      "The      Juniper      Ridge 

2  Ruins."  Less  stone  and 
y  more  adobe  appears  to  have 
H  been  used  in  their  construc- 
£  tion.  In  fact,  I  was  able  to 
S    find    but   a   single    room    of 

which  enough  remained  to 
warrant  investigation.  This 
room  was  photographed.  Its 
preservation  is  owing  to  the 
fact  that  in  its  construction 
it  had  been  placed  below  the 
original  level  of  the  sur- 
rounding territory.  A  cir- 
cular excavation  four  feet  in 
depth  and  ten  feet  in  diam* 
eter  had  been  made ;  this  ex- 


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534  OUT    WEST 

cavation  was  then  lined 
with  a  wall  of  thin 
sandstone  slabs  three 
and  one-half  or  four 
feet  in  length  by  eight- 
een to  twenty  inches  in 
width,  placed  vertically 
around  the  excavation. 
Notwithstanding  the 
small  dimensions  of 
this  room,  it  contained 
three  fireplaces  built 
against  the  walls.  Two 
of  these  fireplaces  can 
be  seen  in  the  photo- 
graph, the  other  is  not 
visible.  being  con- 
cealed by  the  fore- 
ground. In  one  of  these 
fireplaces  was  found  a 
fine  grooved  stone 
hammer.  At  a  depth  of 
three  and  one-half  feet, 
and  seemingly  near  the 
original  floor-level,  we 
encountered  a  skele- 
ton: the  bones,  how- 
ever, were  in  the  last 
stages  of  decay,  and 
quickly  crumbled  to 
dust  upon  exposure. 
No  pottery  or  other 
artifects       had       been 

placed  with  the  deceased.  1  incline  to  the  opinion  that  the  Grim 
Reaper  exacted  the  last  tribute  from  this  individual  suddenly  and 
violently,  and  in  all  probability  at  a  time  when  he  was  peace- 
fully pursuing  his  usual  vocation. 

Leaning  against  the  wall  of  this  room  were  two  sandstone 
slabs;  they  are  about  i  inch  in  thickness,  roughly  squared  to 
about  i8  by  22  inches  in  outline.  A  circular  hole  6  inches  in 
diameter  has  been  wrought  in  the  centre  of  each.  They  plainly 
show  evidence  of  long  continued  use  in  connection  with  fire. 
There  can,  I  think,  be  no  doubt  that  they  were  placed  across  the 
top  of  the  fireplaces  during  culinary  operations ;  the  central  hole 


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A  LAND  OF  MYSTERY  535 

^  over   which   a   cooking 

i|  pot   was   placed   facili- 

$  tating   the    cooking   of 

a  its  contents,  exactly  as 

.§  the  holes  in  a  modern 

w 

^      range  are  used,  and  for 
""      the  same  reason. 

The  burial  place  per- 
taining  to   these   ruins 
was  located  by  my  son, 
F.  L.  Palmer.    The  ob- 
servations of  the  bur- 
§      ials  at  Rmn  No.  i  are 
S      equally  applicable  here. 
2     The   ground,   however, 
%      was  a  little  less  hard, 
2      and   we    were   able    to 
g      save     all     the     pottery 
«      which  had  not  been  de- 
S      stroyed  at  time  of  bur- 
S      ial.     I  am  of  the  opin- 
*      ion  that  the  burials  at 
this     ruin     must     have 
been  made  at  a  very  re- 
mote      period,       even 
when  considered  in  re- 
lation to  similar  ruins 
in    this    section.      This 
conclusion      is      based 
upon  the  total  disinte- 
gration of  bones  found 
associated  with  the  pot- 
tery     in      the      burial 
place.     It  was   an   ab- 
solute impossibility,  even  by  an  exercise  of  the  utmost  patience 
and  care,  to  obtain  a  photograph  of  the  contents  of  a  single 
grave  in  situ. 

Oct.  4th,  I  made  a  visit  to  a  box  canon  located  three  and  one- 
half  miles  northeast  of  Snowflake.  This  canon  is  about  thirty 
miles  in  length,  and  in  places  more  than  200  feet  in  depth.  At 
various  places  its  nearly  vertical  walls  of  sandstone  show  abund- 
ant evidence  of  attempts  to  record  events  or  impressions  by 
means  of  pictoglyphs  engraved  thereon.  I  secured  a  number  of 
photographs  which  accompany  this  article. 

As  a  result  of  these  researches  there  has  been  secured  for  the 


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IN  THB  BOX  caSon  ist  Art'tOMa  Expedition 

(200FBBT  DBBP) 


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f<3 


Z 

o 


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538  OUT    WEST 

Museum  a  representative  collection  of  primitive  artifects  inci- 
dent to  the  country  explored.  Its  appraisement  in  science  re- 
mains to  be  determined;  but  of  its  large  value  to  the  Museum 
there  can  be  no  doubt. 

[The  first  Arizona  expedition,  which  Dr.  Palmer  outlines  above, 
was  conducted  under  the  old  restrictions  that  forbade  exploration 
of  the  richest  antiquarian  field  in  the  Southwest.  Since  then 
the  Southwest  Society  has,  in  a  single-handed  campaign,  secured 
the  opening  of  this  field  to  science — not  only  for  itself  but  for 
Harvard  University  and  the  other  Eastern  museums  which  had 
long  ago  abandoned  as  hopeless  the  attempt  to  secure  this  privi- 
lege. The  first  official  permission  ever  given  by  the  Govern- 
ment to  explore  on  government  reservations  is  given  to  the 
Southwest  Society.     It  will  be  improved. — Ed.] 


PRAYER  or  THE  BOUND 

By  ETHEL  GRIFFITH 

YJIATHER  of  All,  grant  me  this  single  plea: 
jj^     God  of  the  Open  Sky, 
Let  me  go  free! 
As  wide  as  mighty  winds  Thy  earth  around, 

O  Lord,  the  loosened  throat; 

The  soul  unbound! 
To  me  the  rugged  heart  of  mountains  bare; 

The  hoar  strength  of  Thy  hills, 

God  of  the  Open  Air! 
Unchecked  and  wild  Thy  mighty  waves  drive  free ; 

Grant  me  my  course  as  they. 

Lord  of  the  Untamed  Sea ! 
Father  of  All,  grant  me  this  single  plea : 

God  of  the  Open  Sky, 

Let  me  go  free ! 


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539 

REVIVING  AN  ANCIENT  CRAFT 

T  IS  an  unwelcome  and  disquieting  fact  that 
civilization    almost    invariably    destroys    the 
native  arts  and  crafts,  and  gives  us  poor  sub- 
stitutes in  their  place.    The  original  tendency 
of  humankind  is  to  work  honestly — and  hon- 
est work  means  the  admixture  of  love  and 
pride  with  manual  skill.    We  have,  of  course, 
developed  what  we  call  Art;  and  it  is  a  noble 
invention.    But  no  one  who  is  familiar  with  the  earlier  achieve- 
ment of  the  race  can  escape  certain  periods  of  doubt  as  to  whether 
the  production  of  one  person  in  ten  thousand  who  can  smack 
prepared  colors  upon  prepared  canvas  to  the  content  of  nations 
is  a  wholly  satisfactory  exchange  for  the  more  ancient  condition 
in  which  everyone  was  an  artist,  and  everything  that  was  made 
by  the  hand  of  man  had  a  certain  artistic  quality. 

One  might  as  well  try  to  divide  a  barrel  of  apples  by  a  bushel 
of  potatoes  as  to  compare  the  two  sociological  eras : 

I.     When  every  housewife  wrought  with  her  own  hands  her 


A   RATTLB8NAKB  BA8KBT  SOMtkwtMt  MuSiUM 

(Laiseno  Mission  Indians) 
7  inches  diameter;  white  and  ffold-brown 


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540  OUT    WEST 

own  clothing,  her  own  cooking  utensils,  and  all  the  other  utilities 
of  her  home,  with  an  unspoiled  thought  which  made  these  articles 
such  an  expression  of  natural  human  art-feeling  that  today  her 
kitchen  pots  are  among  the  richest  ornaments  in  public  and 
private  museums  that  can  afford  them;  when  there  were  no 
chromos,  no  aniline  dyes,  no  tin  buckets,  no  crazy  quilts,  no 
tatting — in  a  word,  when  all  things  were  made  with  love  and  for 
use ;  when  even  the  less  artistic  creature,  her  he-consort,  put  love, 
thought  and  labor  into  his  special  equipment — which  was  to  kill 
his  enemy,  bring  down  game  for  his  home,  and  satisfy  his  heathen 
longing  to  worship,  every  minute  of  the  year,  whatever  gods  he 
knew. 


CAMPO  (mission  Indian)  baskets  Southwest  Museum 

2.  When  we  save  work  by  saving  Care;  when  we  make  to 
sell,  or  to  save  money;  when  everything  that  will  hold  water  is 
"good  enough"  for  use;  when  selfishness  is  overloading  us  with 
things  that  have  no  use  and  are  only  for  display;  when  house- 
wife and  bread-winner  alike  buy  what  they  need,  instead  of  mak- 
ing it — from  roof-tree  down  to  tea-kettle  and  weapon. 

For  those  who  like  either  thing  better,  "that  is  just  the  sort 
of  thing  those  people  would  like."  There  ought  to  be  room  in 
the  world  for  both.  There  is  room  in  the  world  for  both,  with  the 
people  who  think. 

The  first  domestic  arts  in  America  have  been,  for  many  years, 
perilously  near  extinction.  The  machine  has  taken  the  place,  in 
our  economy,  of  that  maker  and  master  of  all  machines — the  hu- 
man hand.     Whatever  effect  the  machine-made  has  had  on  our 


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REVIVING  AN  ANCIENT  CRAFT  541 


LUISBf^O  MISSION  INDIAN  BASKET  Southwest  MuseutH 

8H  inches  diameter;  white  and  ffoldea  brown 

own  life,  there  is  no  question  of  its  effect  in  degrading  those  arts 
of  simpler  peoples  to  which  (by  an  unconscious  sarcasm  on  our- 
selves) we  turn  for  our  most  cherished  ornaments.  There  are 
few  rich  Americans  who  would  not  be  glad,  for  instance,  to  own  a 
Navajo  blanket  of  the  best  Old  School.  But  they  cannot.  Twenty 
years  ago,  such  a  blanket  could  be  bought  for  $20,  when  high. 
There  are  20,000  Navajos  still  living,  herding  sheep  and  horses, 
and  weaving  blankets ;  but  you  cannot  hire  one  of  them  to  make 
for  $500  one  of  those  old  "joy"  blankets.  Their  old  art  has  been 
hamstrung  by  cheaper  processes,  aniline  dyes  and  the  demand 
of  the  thoughtless.  The  still  older  art  of  basketry — the  first  ar- 
tistic craft  in  America — is  suffering  almost  as  much.  The  best 
baskets  ever  made,  between  the  beginning  of  this  terrestrial  globe 
as  a  habitable  place  for  man  and  the  first  day  of  December,  1905, 
were  made  on  the  Pacific  Coast  of  America.  They  were  made  not 
to  sell  but  to  use.  And  "stupid"  Indian  women  put  as  much 
labor,  as  much  love,  as  much  art  sense  into  one  basket  to  be  used 
for  a  mush-kettle,  as  the  average  civilized  woman  today  puts  into 
housekeeping  and  art  together  in  a  year;  and  this  is  not  a  guess, 
for  even  the  market  justifies  the  estimate.  One  of  these  Indian 
mush-pots  has  been  sold  within  two  years  for  $2500. 

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542  OUT    WEST 

But  as  prices  have  gone  up,  quality  has  gone  down.  The 
leisurely  relic-seeker  and  collector  has  run  after  strange  gods; 
has  demanded  new  colors;  has  suggested  the  introduction  of 
modern  figures  and  shapes — and  even  the  alphabet.  Not  long 
ago,  a  number  of  well-meaning  people  procured  a  Navajo  woman 
to  weave  a  blanket  full  of  Masonic  emblems ! 

A  year  ago  the  art  of  basketry  among  the  Mission  Indians  of 
Southern  California  was  fast  becoming  extinct.  Only  the  old 
women  persisted  in  it;  and  even  they  had  been  sophisticated  by 


A  DIBOUBf^O  MISSION  IHDIAN  WINNOWIMO  BASKET  SoutklOtU  Mustum 

13  inches  diameter;  white,  brown  and  olive 

the  demand  of  crazy-quilt  tourists.  The  young  women,  educated 
in  government  schools,  or  influenced  by  their  sisters  thus  edu- 
cated, looked  down  on  the  old  life  and  the  old  arts,  and  yearned 
only  to  do  fancy  work,  diddle  a  mandolin,  and  own  a  picture  hat. 
The  Sequoya  League  and  the  Southwest  Society  have  had  the 
good  fortune,  in  conjunction,  to  help  to  arrest  the  extinction  of 
this  beautiful  art.  The  League  has  undertaken  to  purchase  for 
spot  cash  every  decent  basket  made  by  the  Indians  of  the  five 
Campo  reservations;  and  has  also  taken  the  product  of  some  of 
the  others.     It  pays  in  proportion  to  the  sincerity  of  the  work. 


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REVIVING   AN  ANCIENT  CRAFT  543 

It  refuses  to  take  any  basket  faked  after  meretricious  colors,  de- 
signs or  shapes.  The  more  "Indian"  the  basket,  the  better  price 
the  League  pays.  Incidentally,  it  is  largely  assisting  the  self- 
support  of  a  large  number  of  original  Californians  whom  the 
government  had  left  starving. 

The  most  typical  baskets  thus  produced  are  taken  by  the 
Southwest  Society  for  the  Southwest  Museum,  to  be  preserved 
for  our  children. 

In  a  recent  visit  to  some  of  the  reservations  where,  twelve 
months  ago,  only  a  few  old  women  were  making  sophisticated 
market  baskets,  I  was  delighted  to  find,  first  a  lot  of  young 
women  (and  even  girls)  returning  to  and  becoming  professioned 


THB  BEST  CAMPO  BASKET  Soutkwest  Museum 

in  their  hereditary  art  work ;  and  also  a  general  reversion  to  the 
shapes,  colors  and  patterns  devised  by  those  who  invented  the 
art  and  loved  it  and  by  love  developed  it.  Baskets  are  being 
made  now  by  these  people  as  they  would  make  them  for  them- 
selves ;  and  the  best  basket  ever  known  to  be  produced  on  the 
Campo  Reservations  has  been  turned  out  within  three  months 
by  an  old  woman  who  was  delighted  at  the  chance  to  surpass 
her  own  earlier  efforts. 

One  of  the  features  of  the  Southwest  Museum  will  be  a  unique 
collection  of  these  aboriginal  California  arts;  and  the  nucleus 
\^  already  one  of  great  importance. 

C.  F.  L. 


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545 
TIES 

By  MARGARET  TROILI 

HEN  you  sit  up  there  on  the  hillside,  the 

redwoods    will    admit    you    into    their 

company,  provided  you  are  serene  and 

reverent  as   they.     They   will   let  you 

look  between  their  shoulders  down  into 

and  up  along  the  river  valley  below,  on 

the    procession   of   alders    bearing   the 

river   to   the   ocean   across   the   tawny 

fields.     The   wooded   ridges   crowd  on 

towards   them   from   the   rear  and   the 

sides,  but  still  allow  them  to  pass.     There  will  be  sounds,  too, 

coming  up   to  the   brotherhood   of  giants.     Perhaps   the   cows 

are   loitering  past — the  happy,  pure,  unresonant  tinkles  strike 

the    careless    morning   hours.      The    men   are   shouting   in    the 

hayfield,  and  the  axe  is  busy  on  the  opposite  ridge.     They  are 


SUPINB  AND  HBLPLB88' 


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546 


OUT    WEST 


THB  TIB-MAKBK*S  TOOLS 


SPLITTING  OUT   THE  TIBS 


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TIES  547 

cutting  down  one  of  the  brotherhood  over  there.  Come  over 
and  see.    The  world  has  needs  and  the  wilderness  fills  them. 

Here  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  are  piles  of  new  ties — the 
teamsters  will  take  them  away.  There  is  the  chute  down  which 
they  slid.  Up  here  on  the  steep  slope  stands  the  old  stump  and 
around  it  lie  the  shreds  and  rags  of  the  tree's  bark-garment. 
Here  are  chips  and  rejected  pieces ;  here  are  piles  of  rough  ties, 
thrown  to  one  side  as  they  were  split;  here  are,  as  the  final 
product,  neat  tiers  of  smooth  ties. 

If  the  tie-maker  comes  up  from  the  cabin  below,  he  may  tell 
you  something  about  the  technique  of  making  ties.  Here  is  a 
tree  they  felled — must  be  up-hill,  of  course,  or  it  would  break 
to  pieces,  or  slide  to  the  bottom.  The  felled  tree,  being  now 
supine  and  helpless,  is  sawed  into  "cuts"  the  length  of  the  ties, 
eight  feet ;  the  top  is  not  available,  being  too  small  of  girth.  On 
the  face  of  the  cuts  is  marked  out,  with  a  "marker,"  the  number 
of  ties  which  can  be  split  out,  discounting  the  "sap"  (the  white 
rim  under  the  bark),  and  splits  in  the  wood.  Then,  with  wedges 
driven  in,  with  sledgehammers  and  crowbars,  and  the  big 
strength  of  four  arms,  the  cut  is  split  into  rough,  square  pieces, 
which  are  thrown  to  one  side,  the  waste  to  the  other.  At  last, 
there  *is  only  the  empty  sheath  of  sap  and  bark  on  the  ground — 
and  time  for  a  smoke,  or  a  lunch. 


PILBS  OF   ROUGH  TIBS 


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548 


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THE  TBAMSTBRS  WITH  TBBIR   WAGONS 


NKAT  TIBKS  OP  SMOOTH   TIBS 


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TIES  549 

There  is  great  difference  in  trees,  an  expert  will  tell  you. 
Some  split  easily,  other  are  too  wet  or  are  full  of  holes.  Here 
is  the  biggest  cut  of  all,  to  be  worked  later  because  too  wet.  It 
might  yield  upwards  of  forty  ties.  This  tree,  two  hundred  feet 
long,  has  made  two  hundred  ties. 

The  men  now  level  off  a  place  big  enough  to  work  on,  lay 
pieces  of  wood  across  which  to  put  the  rough  ties.  Then,  with 
the  broad-axe,  very  similar  to  the  ancient  battle-axe,  they  hew 
and  trim  until  the  familiar  railroad  tie  is  complete.  It  is  then 
laid  with  its  fellows  in  neat  tiers,  awaiting  the  coming  of  the 
man  from  the  company,  who  "receives"  them — banishment  fol- 
lows, and  the  tie  goes  out  into  the  world,  by  way  of  the  chute. 

It  is  a  tranquil  life  up  here  where  the  trees  stand  together. 
There  is  something  in  the  ease  with  which  these  men  work  and 
carry  themselves — infinitely  leisurely  when  at  rest;  supple,  skill- 
ful, when  at  work — that  harmonizes  with  the  spirit  of  the  broth- 
erhood of  trees.  Perhaps  they  feel  the  loss  of  one  of  them — but 
they  should  be  consoled.  To  be  useful  is  the  noblest  thing  in  the 
world.  The  teamsters  come  with  their  wagons  to  the  bottom  of 
the  hill,  and  with  tie-hooks  and  strong  arms  lift  the  now  im- 
personal parts  of  the  redwood  tree  into  their  wagons.  Across 
the  river,  up  the  long  road  through  the  woods,  past  other  tie- 
makers'  cabins,  then  down,  and  out  into  the  dusty  common  road 


WHAT  THX  TIB-MAKBX8  LBAVB 


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550  OUT    WBSf 


LOADING   THK  TIB8 


that  leads  to  the  landing.  Near  the  landing  the  ties  are  unloaded 
and  stood  on  end,  one  against  the  other,  with  none  of  the  music 
and  motion  they  knew  in  the  forest. 

A  steamer  comes  by  a  gap  in  the  breakers  to  the  wharf,  and 
the  ties  are  loaded  on  it.  Some  evening  they  set  out  and  are 
sent  far  away,  to  Mexico,  South  America,  Australia,  the  South 
Seas,  to  lie  under  the  world's  railways.  When  the  workmen 
drag  them  off  the  flat-cars,  who  will  think  of  the  Mendocino 
mountains  where  they  grew,  spectators  of  the  Procession  of  the 
Alders,  shelterers  of  wild  things,  grave  brothers  who  detain 
the  winds.  Travelers  eager  for  the  new  places  will  never  think 
of  the  gift  of  the  forest,  the  heart  of  the  tree  in  the  dust,  now 
without  the  dim  charm  of  association,  without  a  history. 

Lo»  Ang-eles  

THE  mirage: 

By  THERESA  RUSSELL 

^rijTISTED  green  and  silver  bright, 
^ly  I      Gleaming  through  the  arid  light, 
^^  Be  thy  intent  to  deceive  us 

Or  from  dullness  to  relieve  us 

Fair  thou  art  to  wistful  sight. 

E'en  though  thou  be  as  false  as  fair. 
Aphrodite  of  the  air, 

Sprung  from  Hope-deluded  vision, 

Smiling,  mocking  in  derision. 
Luring  trust  to  black  despair — 

Yet  shine  on,  oh  phantom  dear ; 

Joys  are  sweeter  far  than  near. 
All  thy  empty,  vain  effulgence 
Wins  our  pardoning  indulgence — 

Lacking  thee,  the  waste  were  drear. 

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551 
AN  OASIS 

By  ALAN  QWEN 

E  WAS  a  cheery,  insouciant  little  runt,  and, 
when  he  took  the  trouble,  could  give  a  pet 
raccoon  points  as  an  entertainer. 

"Hansard,"  he  said,  rubbing  his  hands  to- 
gether, there's  a  slew  of  us  planning  a  camping 
trip." 

*'Ah-ha."     Give  it  the  right  intonation,  and 
there  is  no  human  sound  more  non-committal. 

"You  bet.    We  aim  to  do  the  thing  in  good  shape ;  no  monkey- 
ing around  Mono  Flats  a  day  from  town.    The  idea  is  to  keep 
a-going  till  we  get  way,  way  into  the  wilds." 
"Ah-ha?" 

"Oh,  come  off  with  your  ah-ha.    We  want  you  to  go  along  and 
act  guide." 
"Yes?" 

"Yep ;  you're  dead  next  to  the  trails,  and  all  that — ought  to  be, 
anyway !"    Then  he  laughed. 

"Maybe."    It  was  acidly  said,  and  he  stopped  laughing,  taking 
another  tone. 

"Honest,  Hansard,  we  can't  make  it  without  you.     There'll 
have  to  be  a  train  of  mules  a  mile  long,  and  not  a  soul  of  us 


MONO  FLATS—A  DAY  FXOM  TOWXf 


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552  OUT    WEST 

sawys  packing,  the  diamond  hitch  or  any  other  old  hitch.  An' 
there's  liable  to  be  a  heap  of  'em  before  we  get  through.  There'll 
be  half  a  dozen  ladies — " 

"Wha-a-t!  and  you — Get  out  of  here!" 

He  had  the  impudence  to  roar  with  laughter  at  the  expression 
my  face  wore.  The  reason  for  the  fury  and  disgust  there  depicted, 
is  a  little  difficult  to  convey  in  this  century.  Approaching  the 
close  of  the  last,  in  the  eighties,  there  was  a  terra  incognita  lying 
back  of  the  Coast  Range,  five  or  six  hundred  miles  south  of  San 
Francisco,  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  hundred  north  of  Los 
Angeles.  It  is  quite  unnecessary  to  be  more  definite.  The  lo- 
cality is  now  in  the  realm  of  politics,  under  the  guise  of  a  Forest 
Reserve,  infested  with  "Rangers,"  yellow-gaitered  tourists,  and 
clerkly  sportsmen.  The  game,  these  many  years,  has  been  con- 
fined to  the  ubiquitous  beer-bottle  and  coy  tomato  can. 

At  the  time  my  impertinent  acquaintance  was  indulging  in 
unseemly  levity,  things  were  very  different.  The  official  maps 
were  mere  guess-work — the  region  had  never  been  surveyed. 
The  appalling  inaccessibility  of  the  country  may  be  accurately 
conveyed  in  a  sentence ;  eighty  square  miles  held  four  men — and 
supported  none  of  them. 

Leaving  the  dark  side  of  past  things,  the  brighter  aspect  lay, 
for  me,  in  the  swarming  fauna  and  the  virgin  beauty  encountered 
in  every  unexplored  cation  of  this  rugged  wilderness,  while  play- 
ing hide-and-seek  with  a  few  hundred  Texas  cattle. 

Four  men,  thirty  to  forty  miles  apart  from  each  other,  pur- 
posely left  the  trails  in  and  out  of  their  fastnesses  in  such  condi- 
tion that  a  horse,  mule  or  pack-burro  required  months  of  training 
before  the  animal  could  be  trusted  to  negotiate  safely  the  worst 
places — or  induced  to  try.  The  idea  of  taking  novices  of  the  male 
sex  over  such  country  was  anything  but  alluring.  As  for  ladies — ! 

"Let  me  in  on  the  josh  s'mother  time,"  I  broke  in  tartly.  "I've 
my  stock  to  feed,  and  you'll  have  to  excuse — " 

Bert  Morrison  sobered  at  once.  "Come  on  over  the  way,"  he 
said,  nodding  at  a  small  cottage  fifty  yards  from  where  we  stood. 
"I  want  to  introduce  you  to  Doctor  Cassell,  an  English  physician. 
He  and  his  wife  are  going  along  with  us — " 

"With  you !" 

"We're  getting  this  thing  up  largely  on  his  account,"  he  con- 
tinued, unmoved.  "Assistant  to  a  famous  lung  specialist  back 
in  the  Old  County;  caught  consumption  from  a  patient;  thinks 
the  air  of  your  mountains  would  help  him.    Here  we  are." 

They  were  exceedingly  nice  people,  but  the  thing  was  absurd, 
and  working  on  my  sympathies  could  not  alter  this  fact.  Not 
that  the  physician  attempted  it.    A  braver  man  never  grappled 


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AN    OASIS  553 

scientifically  with  his  own  death,  or  looked  fate  more  squarely 
in  the  face,  aided  by  an  intrepid  helpmate.  But  I  suspected  the 
cheerful  Morrison  of  an  assault  upon  my  sensibilities,  and  politely 
but  firmly  declined  once  and  for  all  to  have  any  hand  in  such  an 
impossible  excursion. 

While  the  Doctor  tried  to  expostulate,  his  wife  apparently  saw 
the  matter  as  I  did,  for  she  trod  on  her  husband's  toes,  and 
agreed  to  all  my  objections,  winding  up  the  interview  by  asking 
me  to  dinner  the  following  day.  A  young  lady  from  Philadelphia 
was  to  be  there,  who  had  proposed  to  form  one  of  the  camping 
party.    It  would  be  well  to  have  the  girl  hear  at  first  hand  the  im- 


TBB  START 


possibility  of  expecting  my  pilotage.  Then,  no  doubt,  she  would 
resign  herself  to  the  prospect  of  Mono  Flats  monotony. 

Such  is  the  subtility  of  woman !  The  dinner  came  and  went — 
thereafter  behold  your  humble  servant,  the  very  next  day,  su- 
perintending the  renting  of  additional  mules,  alfaugases,  pack- 
saddles  and  horses;  engaging  a  vaquero  cook,  hobnobbing  over 
the  question  of  supplies,  and  generally  whooping  things  up,  to 
the  amazement  of  the  chirruping  Morrison,  and  the  secret  amuse- 
ment, no  doubt,  of  Mrs.  Dr.  Cassell. 

Again  we  will  glide  with  hasty  elision  over  the  dreadful  series 
of  incidents  marking  the  outset  of  this  pilgrimage. 


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554  OUT    WBST 

In  vain,  with  tearful  mien,  I  protested  that  the  country  we 
were  going  to,  and  pack  mules,  were  alike  intolerant  of  bath- 
tubs. That  bedstead,  mattresses  and  tents,  were  irrelevant  and 
immaterial;  that  a  thousand  and  one  bulky  impedimenta,  suit- 
able possibly  for  an  Old  World  picnic,  were  wholly  superfluous, 
and  an  intolerable  nuisance  in  a  territory  that  stood  up  on  edge, 
and,  in  those  pre-ranger  days,  gloried  in  trails  calculated  to  tax 
the  surefootedness  of  Alpine  goats.  The  Doctor,  good  man, 
wouldn't  sec  it. 

"My  dear  fellow,"  he  said,  "don't  you  know  we're  not  going 
on  a  campaign  into  an  enemy's  country,  but  a  junket  in  the 
woods.    I  believe  in  traveling  in  comfort." 

"All  right.  Doc!"  I  returned  with  fatalistic  resignation.  "It's 
your  say-so;  and  if  a  bit  of  the  junket  slops  over  a  precipice, 
don't  blame  me!" 

Of  course,  that's  just  about  what  did  happen;  and  a  mighty 
good  thing,  too,  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  only  two  men  in 
the  outfit  that  understood  packing.  The  mule  with  the  bath-tub 
started  the  circus,  by  bucking  the  tub  over  her  eyes,  and  then 
plunging  headlong  down  the  canon.  The  brush  broke  the  bed- 
steads to  kindling,  most  handy  for  starting  camp-fires,  and  the 
mattresses  got  so  hopelessly  waterlogged  in  crossing  an  extra 
deep  fording,  that  they  were  left  on  a  rock  to  dry,  and  for  all 
I  know  may  be  there  in  the  sun  to  this  day. 

There  were  five  men,  and  the  number  of  ladies,  thank  good- 
ness, had  dwindled  to  three — the  Doctor's  wife,  Morrison's  sister 
and  the  Philadelphia  maid.  Miss  Blessington. 

At  times  I  thought  Miss  Blessington  was  but  eighteen.  At 
seasons  she  acted  like  some  irrespressible  madcap,  just  let  loose 
from  high  school.  The  sombre  oppressiveness  of  mountain  and 
canon  had  mostly  little  effect  on  her  spirits.  Again,  she  would 
show  a  womanly  dignity  and  a  species  of  intuition  that  only 
comes  to  the  sex  after  twenty. 

The  hair  of  this  Eastern  girl  was  a  sort  of  dead  ash  or  neutral 
brown,  abundant  and  heavy,  its  dull  masses  setting  off  her  brill 
iant  complexion,  scintillant  eyes,  and  gleaming  teeth.  Her  great- 
est attraction,  in  my  eyes,  was  her  strenuous  health,  so  unusual 
in  visitors  from  Atlantic  states.  It  was  a  sort  of  redundant  vital- 
ity, that  magnetized  all  who  came  near  it.  To  look  for  a  moment 
at  her  eyes  (an  occupation  by  no  means  distasteful),  their  lights 
shifted  from  grey  to  blue  and  back  again,  under  curved  lashes 
and  well-marked  brows.  Her  mouth,  generous  and  vital,  pout- 
ing the  lips  in  repose  the  most  charming  trifle,  bore  witness  that 
her  Quaker  ancestry  had  been  very  human  at  heart,  under  their 
grey  sobriety.    Her  nose  had  nothing  of  the  classic  in  outline; 


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AN    OASIS  555 

but,  like  her  mouth,  was  modeled  on  a  scale  at  once  ample,  yet 
fine  and  sensitive. 

The  situation  was  somewhat  electrically  charged  from  the 
start.  The  work  of  riding  herd  on  the  outfit  kept  my  hands  very 
full  during  daylight,  so  long  as  the  party  was  traveling.  Inci- 
dentally, it  may  be  noted,  that  the  distance  to  my  own  camp, 
some  eighty  miles,  across  three  ranges  of  mountains,  took  me, 
when  alone,  three  days — two,  if  there  was  cause  to  hurry.  It 
occupied  the  Doctor  and  his  suite,  seven ;  and  lucky  they  all  were 
then  to  make  it. 

Morrison's  inning  with  Beauty  was  on  the  trail,  and  I  must 
confess  he  made  the  most  of  it.     He  was  one  of  those  surface 


ON  TBB  TRAIL 


travelers,  with  a  heart  as  light  as  his  chatter,  ever  ready  to  see 
the  ridiculous,  and  a  great  hand  with  the  ladies.  In  this  he  was 
at  an  advantage.  Town  life  gave  him  plenty  of  scope  for  his 
talent,  while  my  hermit-like  banishment  in  the  wilderness  yielded 
no  more  gentle  experience  than  an  occasional  squaw  from  the 
Cuyama. 

In  the  evening,  however,  over  the  camp-fire,  the  tide  turned 
in  my  favor.  The  Doctor,  over  whom  the  country  and  my  life 
in  it  had  thrown  a  lasting  fascination,  insisted  on  drawing  me 
out,  while  he  sucked  at  his  English  meerschaum  in  rapture.  It 
was  an  enjoyment  possible  at  second-hand  only,  for  had  his 


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556  OUT    WBST 

lines  been  cast  in  my  place,  he  would  have  found  nothing^  on 
earth  to  revel  in,  but  dirt,  dog-weariness  and  hunger.  Hunger  for 
food  other  than  bacon,  varied  by  venison- jerky;  for  speech  with 
human  being,  the  longing  for  all  that  makes  life  seem  adequate ; 
man's  need  of  woman's  sympathy. 

As,  under  the  Doctor's  questioning,  I  related  such  incidents  as 
life  in  a  primitive  wilderness  bristles  with,  Miss  Blessington 
would  nestle  close  betwieen  the  Doctor  and  his  wife,  listening 
open-eyed.  It  must  all  have  been  dreadfully  boring  to  Morrison, 
and  his  sister  would  yawn  most  waspishly — but,  to  give  credit 
when  it  is  earned,  he  behaved  with  becoming  sang  froid. 

The  lists  may  be  said  to  have  been  so  arrayed — unconsciously, 
for  the  most  part,  but  none  the  less  effectively. 

On  the  one  side  was  Morrison,  with  practically  all  day  and  a 
clear  field,  an  abetting  sister  as  a  vigilant  and  sleepless  watch- 
dog. On  the  other,  myself,  aided  unwittingly  by  Doctor  Cassell, 
with  his  wife  as  a  discreet  but  inwardly  entertained  referee. 

The  first  revelation  that  perhaps  a  little  leeway  was  being 
made,  through  the  Doctor,  via  the  girl's  imagination  (my  person- 
ality bearing  the  uncouth  impress  inseparable  from  this  mode  of 
existence),  occurred  the  fourth  day  out.  There  had  been  trouble 
with  one  of  the  pack-mules.  Roping  the  brute,  I  snaked  it  altead 
on  the  trail,  away  from  the  rest  of  the  train,  strung  out  behind 
under  charge  of  the  vaquero. 

Whether  it  was  Miss  Blessington's  smile,  as  I  turned  to  point 
out  a  queer  rock  formation,  or  merely  inexcusable  carelessness, 
I  started  up  a  grade  with  the  reata  turned  once  around  the  sad- 
dle-horn, the  slack  coiled  in  my  left.  For  the  benefit  of  those  to 
whom  this  conveys  no  enormity,  it  may  be  remarked  that  the 
rawhide  rope  should  have  been  free  of  the  saddle  going  up  hill ; 
for  even  if  perfectly  fast  by  three  or  four  turns  round  the  pom- 
mel, the  grade  made  the  risk  of  being  yanked  clear  over  back- 
wards, pony  and  all,  a  grave  one. 

My  method  at  the  time  was  nothing  less  than  suicidal,  and 
brought  its  own  punishment  instanter.  The  mule  unexpectedly 
sat  back  on  its  haunches,  the  reata  slithered  around  the  horn 
with  a  shriek  and  smell  of  burning,  until  the  coil  drew  taut 
on  my  hand,  cauterizing  and  cutting  the  flesh  to  the  bone. 

I  had  reason  to  be  thankful  that  a  physician  of  the  highest 
skill  formed  one  of  the  party;  the  wound,  as  may  be  imagined, 
was  ugly,  agonizing  and  slow  to  heal.  On  the  whole,  casting  up 
one  thing  with  another,  I  came  to  regard  my  hurt  as  a  godsend. 
The  hand  required  dressing  several  times  a  day,  a  duty  the  warm- 
hearted daughter  of  Pennsylvania  insisted  on  performing.  In 
vain  Miss  Morrison  fussed  officiously,  with  motives  of  sisterly 


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8TBBP  AMD  SLBXfDBX  TRAILS  CUT  IN  THB  FACB  OF  PXBCIPICB8     From  painting  by  AUx  F,  Harmer 


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AN    OASIS  559 

loyalty,  or  Mrs.  Cassell  intervened  in  good-natured  mischief ;  the 
Philadelphia  girl  would  allow  no  alleviation  of  her  self-imposed 
task,  and — oh,  well,  it  beat  palmistry  all  to  pieces. 

On  the  seventh  day  we  reached  my  potrero.  For  eighty  miles 
we  had  wound  our  way  through  narrow,  brushy  canons,  or  dry, 
rocky  arroyos,  climbed  steeps  and  slender  trails  cut  in  the  face 
of  precipices,  scrambled  up  and  down  vast  mountains  that  made 
the  first  Coast  Range  look  a  puny  dyke.  Now,  with  yelps  of 
delight  from  the  party,  the  trail  debouched  upon  a  matchless  am- 
phitheatre of  perhaps  two  hundred  acres,  poised  high,  nearly 
seven  thousand  feet,  shut  in  on  every  side  by  towering  peaks. 

The  flat  itself  was  free  of  heavy  brush,  a  living  stream  of  water 
cutting  the  potrero  in  two.  I  saw  Miss  Blessington  s  mountain 
"knickers"  flash  by  me,  as  she  raced  over  the  level  land.  In 
passing,  she  had  leaned  to  give  my  pony  a  flick ;  now  she  turned 
in  her  Mexican  saddle: 

"I  dare  you  I"  she  said,  and  was  off  like  the  wind. 

Sending  heavily-shanked  spurs  home,  I  started  after  her,  my 
mustang  beating  out  with  his  hoofs  the  rhythm  of  a  lilting  verse : 

"Then  Roop!  Ki!  Yi!  with  her  elbows  high,  she  spurts  in  the 

cowboy  style ; 
With  a  jerk  and  a  saw  at  her  horse's  jaw,  she's  ahead  for  another 

mile!" 

When  I  drew  up  even,  the  two  plugs  racing  over  the  open  in 
perfect  unison,  I  could  not  resist  bending  over  the  saddle  and 
shouting  the  other  verse : 

"With  a  *Catch  if  you  can,  I'm  as  good  as  a  man!'  at  a  break- 
neck pace  we  ride. 

I  have  all  but  placed  my  arm  round  her  waist,  as  we  gallop  side 
by  side!" 

"Not  this  child !"  she  retorted,  pulling  up,  her  color  heightened 
and  teeth  gleaming;  then,  as  the  rest  of  the  outfit  approached, 
she  spurred  back  to  them,  flinging  over  her  shoulder  the  adden- 
dum: 

"Besides,  see  the  noble  army  of  rubber-necks !" 

Rubber-necks !  Has  the  Society  of  Friends  fallen  from  Grace, 
or  did  my  ears  deceive  me  ?  A  number  of  times  that  same  even- 
ing I  was  faced  with  this  poser,  nor  was  the  solution  in  the  girl's 
mien,  a  demureness  impinging  upon  austerity. 

Alas  for  our  hopes  of  a  resting-place !  The  alkali  in  my  creek 
was  altogether  too  self-assertive.  After  a  respite  of  forty-eight 
hours,  I  recommended  a  move  to  a  still  greater  altitude — ^the  pine 
belt,  where  the  water  ran  limpid,  ice-cold,  and  free  from  irritant 
salts. 


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560  OUT    WBST 

The  locality  I  had  in  mind,  lay  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles, 
steady  rise,  northeast  of  the  potrero.  To  understand  the  events 
that  followed  this  move,  a  description,  the  briefest  possible,  is 
necessary  of  the  intervening  country. 

Imagine  a  creek  bed  winding  for  ten  miles  between  precipitous 
walls  of  mountain,  sometimes  sheer,  more  often  shelving,  but 
never  sufficiently  to  form  a  flat  or  potrero.  Picture  the  main 
basin,  dry  for  the  most  part,  throwing  off  innumerable  tribu- 
taries, which  cut  into  the  walls  of  the  canon  on  the  right  and  left. 
Sometimes  these  branches  would  show  wider  and  more  open 
country  than  the  main  creek  followed  by  the  trail ;  at  others  the 
tributary  would  feed  its  parent  by  means  of  a  slight  fissure  in 
the  rock.  In  either  case,  to  right  or  left,  these  branches  led  off 
into  labyrinthine  voids,  interminable  mazes,  that  even  at  this 
hackneyed  day  must  remain  inviolate.  Woe  to  the  tenderfoot 
possessed  of  a  faith  that  they  "come  out  somewhere."  They 
never  do — and  he  is  apt  not  to. 

Hemmed  in  as  the  trail  appeared,  Miss  Blessington,  in  one  of 
her  galvanic  moods,  determined  to  usurp  the  lead,  crushed  past 
me  on  the  trail,  her  knee  brushing  my  rawhide  armos,  and  loped 
ahead,  with  a  challenging  glance  backwards,  a  sort  of  farewell 
defi,  as  the  elbows  of  the  canon  took  her  in  their  crookedness. 

"Watch  out  you  don't  switch  to  a  cattle  track,"  I  shouted.  "It's 
good-bye  if  you  do !" 

"Can't  lose  me !"  came  back  from  behind  a  bend.  "Your  pony's 
dead  slow ;  get  a  wiggle  on  you  both !" 

Again  those  tripping  verses  galloped  through  my  head : 
"And  it's  Nancy's  dust  that  breathe  I  must,  and  it's  Nancy's  trail 

I  follow. 
Till  I  leave  the  rut  for  the  steep  short-cut,  and  I've  caught  her 
down  in  the  hollow !" 

Nothing  was  further  from  my  duty  as  I  saw  it ;  but  the  tempta- 
tion was  no  small  one.  However,  I  knew  that  canon  like  a 
book,  and  could  not  risk  it.  The  creek  doubled  and  twisted  like 
a  snake  in  pain,  while  glimpses  of  straight  and  smiling  reaches, 
leading  Heaven  knows  where,  greeted  one  through  openings  on 
either  side  of  the  watershed.  If  we  were  to  make  camp  that 
night,  I  must  never  for  a  moment  lose  touch  with  the  outfit. 

For  many  exasperating  reasons,  it  was  a  toss-up  whether  we 
made  it  before  dark  or  not.  The  last  five  miles  included  an  ex- 
ceedingly stiflf  bit  of  climbing,  and  the  packs  behaved  very  badly. 
At  last,  however,  the  pines  were  actually  reached,  and  we  built 
camp  beside  the  purest  of  water,  the  banks  of  the  stream  matted 
with  wild  strawberries,  raspberries  and  blackberries  growing  in 
shady  luxuriance. 


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AN    OASIS  561 

The  mules  were  swiftly  unpacked — a  job  all  male  hands  could 
tackle — the  horses  unsaddled  and  tethered.  A  fire  for  supper 
began  to  splutter,  piled  high  with  resinous  pine-cones,  when  the 
Doctor  looked  over  his  spectacles  inquisitively: 

"Where's  Miss  Blessington  ?" 

At  first  I  went  quite  sick  at  the  thought  of  it,  for  I  knew  in  a 
flash  what  had  happened.  Then,  as  the  party  set  up  a  futile 
hallooing,  the  blood  surged  happily  through  me;  for  there  was 
but  one  man  at  home  in  that  country,  or  with  a  trick  of  following 
a  pony's  tracks  over  the  criss-crossing  of  cattle.  Throwing  the 
saddle  back  on  an  indignant  pinto,  I  hid  my  face  for  a  moment  in 


TO  THE  CAMP  AMONG  THB  PINES 


the  girths  to  conceal  a  broad  grin,  then  pulled  on  the  latico  with 
emphasis,  feeling  I  had  a  horse-hair  cinch  on  the  situation. 

Swinging  into  the  saddle,  I  explained  what  had  happened,  most 
likely. 

''Go  right  ahead  with  supper,  Lopez,  and  keep  a  bite  warm  as 
long  as  you  can.  Maybe  Fll  be  back  with  Miss  Blessington  in 
less'n  an  hour." 

I  hardly  thought  so.  Already  imagination  was  leaping  back 
over  the  trail,  picturing  the  Gallant  Rescuer,  basking  in  My 
Lady's  smiles — 

"Hold  on,  old  man!  Couldn't  think  of  letting  you  go  alone. 
I'll  be  with  you  in  a  shake !" 

Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


562  OUT    WEST 

It  was  that  cheerful  highbinder  Morrison !  Inward  ecstasy  pre- 
vented immediate  reply. 

A  wild  glance  around  for  some  way  to  shake  this  incubus 
showed  Mrs.  Cassell  biting  her  lips  to  keep  in  laughter.  Anger 
gave  back  power  to  use  my  tongue. 

"Don't  you  worry,  Morrison;  I'll  be  all  right,  and  back  in  a 
jiffy.    You  stay  and  look  after  the  ladies !" 

"Thank  you,  Mr.  Hansard,  the  ladies  feel  quite  safe  with  my 
husband." 

"My!  yes!"  interjected  that  partisan  sister.  "We're  all  right 
with  Doc,  to  say  nothing  of  Lopez." 

"But,"  L  expostulated,  feeling  beaten  already,  "there's  no  need 
to  take  Bert  away  from  his  supper.  Too  many  cooks  down  there'll 
make  a  hash  of  it." 

"A  mash  of  it?"  queried  Mrs.  Cassell,  dropping  into  the  vul- 
garity with  an  air  of  innocent  blundering. 

"Enid,  my  dear,"  said  the  Doctor,  looking  at  his  spouse  in 
amazed  reproof,  "this  is  no  time  for  folly.  It's  very  good  of  Mr. 
Hansard,  don't  you  know — " 

"I  know  a  lot  more  than  you  do,  in  some  ways,  you  old  goose ! 
Run  along  now,  boys,  or  you'll  get  no  supper." 

"Come  on  then,  Morrison.  Don't  blame  me  if  you  have  a 
picnic  down  in  the  dark." 

"That's  a-1-1  right.  Old  Man.    You  lead !" 

And  I  did,  at  a  gallop,  till,  simultaneously  with  the  last  rays 
of  sunset,  we  touched  the  apex  of  the  mountain  we  had  labori- 
ously climbed  that  afternoon.  The  immense  altitude,  on  a  level 
with  all  but  the  highest  peaks  of  the  greatest  range,  gave  a 
bird's-eye  view  of  the  seething,  squirming  country  below,  which 
already  lowered  blackly  in  the  deepest  shadows. 

The  cooling  perspective  of  years  enforces  all  credit  due  to 
man  and  beast  alike.  Morrison  came  down  that  mountain  after 
my  dust  lickety-split.  It  was  obvious  what  the  trip  had  taught 
both  him  and  his  pony. 

At  the  time,  however,  this  unexpected  exhibition  of  horse- 
manship made  me  feel  more  savage,  and  my  plug  literally  flew 
over  the  intricate  trail. 

Twilight  deepened  into  the  blackest  night,  as  we  entered  the 
canon  proper.  The  trail,  to  escape  the  convolutions  of  the  creek, 
shot  up  all  kinds  of  steep  places,  tunneling  through  thorny 
growths  of  chaparral  and  tough  manzanita.  Such  trails  today 
are  industriously  cut  back  and  kept  open  by  Government  Rang- 
ers. They  were  originally  formed  by  the  primitive  method  of 
forcing  the  horse  headforemost  into  the  thicket,  and  hanging 
level  across  his  withers,  Indian  fashion,  as  he  ploughed  his  ac- 
customed way  through.  , 

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AN    OASIS  563 

Great  fun  the  party  thought  this  species  of  obstacle  race  in  the 
day  time;  at  night,  on  the  keen  trot,  the  fun  was  rather  forced. 
My  bronc'  and  self,  from  years  of  usage,  knew  every  stick  and 
twist,  just  when  to  duck  instinctively,  and  when  to  shield  our 
eyes ;  moreover,  my  rawhide  chaps  or  "armos"  were  proof  against 
mountain  holly. 

My  young  friend  had  a  gay  and  gaudy  time  of  it  in  the  gloom. 
Twice  his  horse  slipped  off  the  trail  and  slid  into  the  creek  be- 
low; his  hat  and  wind  had  both  departed  an  hour  and  more 
ago.     To  lose  sight — or,  rather,  sound — of  my  mustang  was  to 


ON  A  LBVBL  WITH  ALL  BUT  THB  HIOHBST  PEAKS 

be  lost  indeed — and  when  blasphemy  in  the  rear  became  more 
than  usually  sulphurous,  I  divined  that  the  chaparral  had  em- 
braced my  companion,  Absalom-like,  and  lifted  him  from  the 
saddle. 

Presently  we  came  to  the  point  where  it  seemed  likely  Miss 
Blessington  had  made  a  wrong  turning.  Dismounting,  I  lit  a 
match,  then  another.  A  few  mustangs  ran  wild  on  the  range,  so 
that  to  distinguish  the  hoof-tracks  was  not  easy  by  match-light. 

After  tracing  her  up  several  branch  gulches,  ramifying  off  from 
the  tributary  we  were  working,  her  trail  made  a  distinct  break 
back  to  the  main  creek,  and  I  drew  my  own  conclusions. 


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564  OVT    WEST 

The  great  offshoot  we  were  following  opened  out  into  a  world 
of  its  own,  vast  and  tortuous.  I  remembered  chasing,  not  so 
long  since,  a  wild  cow  up  that  identical  fork.  She  ran  around 
the  curve  ahead  of  us — and  disappeared  into  thin  air.  And  that 
was  in  daylight! 

The  mystery  had,  after  half  an  hour's  looking,  been  solved  by 
an  overgrown  trail  that  took  suddenly  up  the  barranca  to  the 
top  of  the  ridge,  along  which  ran  a  bare  and  cattle-worn  trail 
back  to  the  main  cafion. 

Imperceptibly  my  lead  increased.  The  pinto  rounded  the 
curve  sharply.  In  a  moment,  in  answer  to  spur,  he  plunged  up 
the  barranca.     I  checked  him  and  waited. 

Morrison  rode  by  in  a  minute.  I  could  hear  him  shift  un- 
easily in  the  saddle,  as  he  bent  to  peer  at  the  trail;  then  the 
night  shut  down,  and  the  sound  of  hoofs  grew  muffled.  With- 
out conscious  urging,  the  pinto  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  ridge. 

"Now,  my  officious  friend,"  I  chortled,  "you're  in  the  con- 
somme, and  it'll  take  the  combined  efforts  of  a  search  party  to 
fish  you  out!" 

Along  the  ridge,  the  mustang  loped  surefootedly.  A  little 
while  and  he  slackened,  without  hint  or  lift  of  the  reins,  but  in 
response  to  his  owner's  mood.  The  association  between  horse 
and  rider,  after  several  years'  bestriding,  becomes  uncannily  in- 
timate. The  lope  became  a  trot,  and  when  the  creek  was  reached, 
a  slow  and  thoughtful  walk. 

Horrid  memories  of  that  particular  arroyo  jostled  one  another ; 
there  was  a  branch  that  ended  abruptly  in  chasms,  like  a  species 
of  bottomless  pits.  Another  merged  into  a  cienega,  a  fathomless 
bog,  where  grew  a  horrific  crop  of  horns  protruding  from  the 
green  surface — the  only  sign  of  rash  steers  that  had  ventured 
on  its  treacherous  crust.  Above  all,  the  tracks  of  Ephraim  were 
always  visible  throughout  that  section  of  my  range,  incredible 
as  the  statement  may  seem  to  the  hunter  in  this  century  whose 
only  bag  today,  in  that  section,  is  likely  to  be  of  paper. 

In  the  event,  these  haunting  reminiscences  got  the  better  of 
my  resentment.  I  retraced  my  steps  to  the  mouth  of  the  tribu- 
tary, and  hastened  along  the  gulch.  The  canon  took  up  my 
shouts,  like  a  vast  and  unseen  oratorio. 

"Bert!"  I  yelled.    "Bert!— O!  Bert!" 

"Dirt !"  came  back :    "done  him  dirt-dirt-dirt !" 

It  certainly  began  to  look  that  way.  I  was  down  to  my  last 
match,  and  it  showed  his  tracks  running  off  to  the  left  along  a 
trail  that  took  into  a  draw  I  had  always  thought  impenetrable! 
There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  follow  in  the  prickly  blackness, 
and  curse  my  weakness  in  the  face  of  temptation. 


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AN    OASIS  565 

Using  my  lungs  to  the  utmost,  head  bent,  with  the  flap  of  the 
sombrero  flattened  over  my  eyes,  I  forced  the  horse  through, 
doubting  whether  it  could  be  possible  for  a  novice  to  get  in  there, 
and  wondering  how  the  deuce  I  was  myself  to  get  out.  Just  as 
I  had  made  up  my  mind  to  give  up,  and  resume  my  original 
quest  for  Miss  Blessington,  I  heard  an  answering  halloo,  seem- 
ingly not  a  hundred  yards  away. 

"Light  up,  Bert!"  I  cried,  "and  let's  get  out  of  this!" 
His  match  showed  closer  than  I  had  imagined;  his  horse  was 
tethered  to  a  tree,  unsaddled,  and  the  blanket  spread  for  the 
night. 


THB  FORD 


"Gosh!  youVe  a  wonder!"  he  said.  "How  the  thunder  did 
you  track  me?  Fm  all  in,  and  see  my  blamed  foolishness  in 
lagging  along  after  you." 

Remorsefully  I  helped  him  to  saddle.  "Why,  that's  easy,"  I 
answered.  "As  soon  as  I  missed  your  hoof-beats,  1  caught  on 
you'd  switched  to  the  left.  But  how  the  blazes  did  you  manage 
to  butt  in  here?" 

"Butting-in  is  where  Fm  special  strong,"  he  giggled,  and  in 
the  darkness  I  couldn't  help  laughing.  "I  got  off  the  horse  when 
I  lost  you,  and  staggered  around  on  foot." 

That,  of  course,  explained  it;  and  on  foot  we  both  wormed  a 


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566  OUT    WEST 

way  out.  Remounting,  I  confided  my  conclusions  to  Morrison, 
and  the  reasons  that  forced  them  upon  me. 

"Miss  Blessington's  been  'way  up  here,"  I  said.  "How  far,  I 
don't  know — but  something  put  her  next  she  was  oflf  the  trail, 
and  she  back-tracked  out  of  this  canon." 

"Good  Lord!"  exclaimed  Morrison,  "that  makes  it  all  the 
worse — we'll  never  in  the  world  find  her,  if  she's  trapsing  over 
that  infernal  creek." 

"Well,  she  isn't — unless  I'm  making  a  big  mistake.  Accord- 
ing to  my  notion,  she  got  out  of  this  arroyo  shortly  after  the 
outfit  passed,  and  concluded  to  make  a  break  back  to  my 
shanty — " 

"Instead  of  floundering  around  permiscuous  ?" 

"Yep — or  tying  up  for  *a  good  cry.' " 

"Hope  to  God  it's  so !  She's  a  great  girl,  Hansard,  what  d  you 
think?" 

"We'll  probably  have  to  sleep  at  my  potrero  anyway,  tonight," 
I  said,  evading  this  intrusion  of  privacy.  "Keep  close  as  you 
can,  Morrison,  and  once  we  get  on  the  main  trail,  we'll  let  out 
a  kink." 

Using  the  few  matches  that  remained  to  the  other  man,  on 
regaining  the  creek  bed,  I  found  that  my  surmise  had  much  prob- 
ability. The  mare  the  girl  rode,  I  noticed  from  the  outset,  had  a 
slight  malformation  of  one  hind  hoof,  and  this  imprint  was 
pointing  back  over  the  trail  to  my  camp.  Every  few  miles  I  lit 
a  match  and  assured  myself  she  had  taken  no  more  wrong  turn- 
ings, but  apparently  the  passage  of  the  pack  train  and  half  a 
dozen  horses  had  worn  a  fresh  path  easy  to  follow. 

As  the  creek  debouched  upon  the  great  plateau  forming  my 
home,  I  heard,  in  the  far  distance,  a  mustang's  nicker. 

Hands  hollowed  to  mouth  we  coo-eed,  then  swung  into  a  race 
on  the  level. 

A  shaft  of  light  streamed  across  the  flat  as  the  shanty  door 
threw  open,  and  we  heard  a  girl's  voice  call,  clear  and  tri- 
umphant : 

"All  abroad  for  supper !" 

"Supper!"  I  cried,  when  I  got  near  enough.  "Our  hearts  have 
been  in  our  mouths  and  spoilt  all  appetite.  You  scared  the  life 
out  of  us;  and  here  you've  been  calmly  cooking  as  though  ex- 
pecting company !" 

"Sure!"  she  said.  "I  knew  one  of  you  boys'd  be  along  after 
a  while — two's  all  the  better,"  (but  she  made  a  little  mou6  that 
set  me  wondering)  "and  I  don't  go  much  on  that  hearty  diet  you 
talk  about.  I've  done  the  best  I  could  with  your  stores,  Mr, 
Hansard,  but  you  need  a  housekeeper  badljr." 


Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


AN    OASIS  567 

"There's  a  slew  of  things  I  want  the  worst  in  the  world,  and 
ain't  likely  to  get  in  this  neck  of  the  woods/'  I  answered.  "We'll 
just  pull  off  our  saddles  and  be  right  along  in  less  than  a  rattle." 

Morrison  I  thought  strangely  silent,  his  movements  slow  and 
uncertain.  Miss  Blessington  had  tethered  her  plug  to  a  north- 
easterly corral  post,  so  that  it  faced  directly  the  mouth  of  the 
canon  we  must  come  by,  and  with  its  whinnying  gave  due  notice 
of  our  advent. 

In  the  light  of  the  shanty  it  became  evident  that  my  com- 
panion was  badly  used  up;  his  clothes  were  nigh  torn  off  his 
back,  and  there  was  little  whole  skin  remaining  on  face  or  hands. 
He  ate  sparingly ;  then,  at  first  protesting,  finally  yielded  to  Miss 
Blessington's  entreaty  that  he  spread  himself  on  my  bunk,  that 
was  to  serve  the  girl  for  sleeping,  till  it  was  time  for  us  men  to 
retire  to  our  own  boudoir,  the  hay-barn. 

In  two  minutes  he  was  slumbering  with  the  heavy  uncon- 
sciousness of  utter  exhaustion. 

There  was  a  roaring  fire  in  the  'dobe  grate  (the  nights  at  that 
altitude  are  frosty),  and  a  great  pile  of  gathered  fuel  by  the 
hearth.  Had  no  one  arrived,  the  girl  intended  sitting  up  all 
night.  She  had  occupied  herself  by  making  a  clean  sweep  of 
the  shanty — it  needed  it  abominably.  The  guns  had  been  taken 
from  the  rack  and  wiped,  though  the  feminine  mental  process 
that  directed  their  replacing  butt  upwards  must  forever  remain 
a  mystery.  I  would  not  have  made  adverse  comment  for  worlds ; 
indeed,  at  the  time  I  was  not  sure  the  fashion  had  not  a  subtle 
charm  and  secret  utility.  The  bunks,  two  of  them,  one  above  the 
other,  ship-shape,  had  been  dusted  over,  the  sage  mattresses 
shaken,  and  the  pillows  of  pine  feathers  beaten. 

An  immense  accumulation  of  miscellaneous  literature,  which 
sprawled  over  the  whole  place,  out  of  the  door,  under  the  porch, 
and  distributed  itself  impartially  around  the  corral  and  barn, 
all  of  this  that  seemed  worthy  of  preservation,  she  had  carefully 
dusted  and  neatly  stacked  on  a  shelf.  Her  idea  of  worthiness  and 
mine,  it  is  true,  did  not  coincide  at  all  points.  She  had  given 
place  of  honor  to  medicinal  almanacs  bestowed  gratis  by  drug- 
gists, and  lit  the  fire  with  a  tattered  copy  of  "Soldiers  and  Civil- 
ians." The  intent,  nevertheless,  was  excellent.  And  what,  I 
asked  myself  in  youthful  omniscience,  has  female  beauty  to  do 
with  literature?  Now  that  my  hair  is  thin,  where  not  invisible, 
a  mental  echo  floats  o'er  the  gulf  of  years — "what  indeed?" 

Meantime,  there  was  much  to  explain,  and  consideration  for 
the  sleeping  youth  made  close  quarters  an  intoxicating  obliga- 
tion.   The  girl's  face  took  on  an  added  glow,  and  her  eyes  in- 


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THE  FRUIT  OF  THE   YUCCA   TREE  569 

creased  in  beauty  and  sparkle — doubtless  due,  in  a  measure,  to 
the  log  fire. 

Solitary  as  a  rule,  or  Greasers  or  half-breed  vaqueros  the 
hearth  knew ;  the  existing  propinquity  was  an  unanticipated  fore- 
taste of  Elysium;  unexpected  in  its  present  completeness,  but 
no  whit  marred  by  the  memory  of  imagination's  flights  earlier 
in  the  evening,  or  the  check  so  rudely  administered. 

And,  as  she  talked,  she  smiled,  her  white  teeth  gleaming,  and 
the  vital  lips  rich  in  promise.  My  gaze  was  fascinated  by  little 
evanescent  cavities  that  played  about  the  corners  of  her  mouth. 

Simultaneously  we  leaned  forward  to  stir  the  fire,  her  fresh 
young  cheek  so  close  that  the  bloom  of  it,  like  the  couleur  of  the 
wine-grape,  gained  soft  visibility.  An  escaping  look  touched 
my  face,  and  then — 

Then  he  woke  up,  confound  him ! 

May  his  soul  know  the  woes  of  Tantalus! 

The  Mesa,  Santa  Barbara 


THE  FRUIT  or  THE  YUCCA  TREE 

By  SHARLOT  M,  HALL 

HE  sun,  a  dull  red  ball  seen  through  the  dust 
haze,  slid  behind  the  sky  line,  flinging  back  a 
last  glow  of  beauty  over  the  land  he  loved  best. 
The  haze  deepened  to  a  luminous  purple  on  the 
peaks  and  foothills,  cut  with  masses  of  rich- 
toned  shadow  in  the  rugged  canons  that  fur- 
rowed  their   sides   and    crept   down    into    the 
desert  like  wrinkles  in  some  age-worn  face. 
Above  the  horizon  a  great  band  of  orange 
and  flame  grew  slowly,  fading  up  and  up  into  pink  and  pale- 
green  and  dying  away  in  vague  depths  of  softened  blue. 

For  half  an  hour  a  veil  of  filmy  gold  rested  on  the  mesas  where 
the  dust-filled  air  caught  and  held  the  light. 

The  thick,  sharp,  sabre-like  clusters  of  leaves  on  the  yucca 
trees  were  touch-ed  with  the  reflection,  like  the  play  of  fire  on 
a  drawn  sword.  Down  across  the  sand-washes  the  day  slowly 
retreated,  leaving  the  mesquite  and  ironwood  trees  in  shadow. 

The  smoke,  rising  through  the  branch-es  of  a  tall,  shaggy  yucca, 
was  lost  in  gathering  darkness,  but  the  fire  sent  its  glimmer  far 
tlirough  the  forest. 

It  was  not  often  that  a  fire  burned  there  and  the  few  wild 
things  to  whom  the  place  was  home  drew  close  in  wonder  and 
curiosity,  or  fled  in  fear,  according  to  their  kind. 

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570  OUT    WBST 

A  strange  little  jumping  mouse  had  discovered  a  crumb  of 
bread  and  was  dragging  it  stealthily  away  to  eke  out  his  hoard 
of  yucca  seeds.  Somewhere  out  in  the  inky  sand-hills  a  coyote 
sent  up  his  call,  "Ya-i-ah!  I-ah!  I-ah!  I-ah!  Ya-e-ah!  e-e-e-e!" 
rising  and  swelling,  chopped  short  with  vicious  snaps  and  yells, 
and  rising  again  till  his  lean  mate  flung  it  back  weirdly  multi- 
plied. 

Just  beyond  the  campfire  a  covered  traveling-wagon  stood 
in  the  circle  of  light,  the  harness  thrown  idly  across  the  tongue 
and  a  span  of  dust-coated  mules  tied  to  the  hind  wheels.  B> 
the  front  wheel,  next  the  fire,  a  roll  of  bedding  had  been  put 
down  and  a  man  was  lying  on  it,  his  head  propped  on  his  arm, 
watching  a  woman  trim  the  uncouth  branches  of  the  yucca  trees 
with  garlands  of  mistletoe. 

The  dainty  leaves  were  flushed  with  red  and  the  long,  berry- 
set  sprays  were  like  ropes  of  pink  pearls.  It  seemed  too  ex- 
quisite, too  fragile  in  its  ethereal  beauty,  to  be  a  child  of  the 
desert  Yet  they  had  gathered  it  that  day,  where  the  yard-long 
clusters  clung  to  the  mesquite  and  ironwood  trees  along  the  sand- 
washes. 

The  woman  stepped  down  from  the  cracker-box,  on  which  she 
had  been  standing  to  reach  the  higher  limbs.  The  firelight  played 
over  her,  showing  the  gold  in  her  brown  hair  and  the  half- 
whimsical,  half-anxious  curve  of  her  mouth. 

"Isn't  it  lovely?  Don't  it  make  you  feel  Christmas  in  the 
air?'' 

The  man  laughed,  with  a  note  of  teasing  in  his  voice. 

"Christmas?  Here?  Lost  on  the  outside  edge  of  Nowhere, 
without  even  a  jack-rabbit  for  dinner  or  a  blaze  on  the  trunk 
of  a  yucca  to  show  us  the  way  out?  I  can't  say  that  it  does: 
unless  you  intend  to  compound  a  mistletoe  pudding." 

"Don't  joke!  Isn't  it  lovely?  It  is  twelve  hours  before  we 
have  to  begin  trying  to  get  out;  please  let  it  be  Christmas  till 
then.  See,  here  are  your  things.  Don't  look  too  much;  you 
mustn't  know  until  morning."  She  touched  one  garlanded 
branch  from  which  half  a  dozen  parcels  hung. 

"Such  a  time  as  I've  had  hiding  them;  you  are  the  worst 
prowler." 

"Oh !    And  I  have  nothing  for  you !"  he  said  regretfully. 

"Yes  you  have ;  you  are  going  to  be  well  again.  That  is  my 
best  g^ft;  everything  else  can  wait  till  we  get  out." 

There  was  a  quick  step  across  the  dry  yucca  leaves  beyond  the 
wagon.  "Pardon  me!  Your  fire  has  been  my  guide  this  hour. 
I  can  put  you  on  your  road ;  I  know  the  desert  as  a  man  knows 
his  own  dooryard." 


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THE  FRUIT  OF  THE  YUCCA   TREE  571 

He  came  forward  as  he  spoke;  a  man  very  tall,  very  brown, 
as  one  long  unhoused  from  sun  and  wind,  and  with  a  strange, 
withdrawn  remoteness  in  his  eyes. 

He  looked  at  the  woman  wistfully,  almost  reverently,  and  past 
her  to  the  wreathed  yucca  tree,  on  which  her  hand  still  rested. 
"You  are  the  first  woman  I  have  seen  in  two  years,"  he  said, 
as  her  eyes  filled  with  wonder.  "And  you  have  trimmed  a 
Christmas  tree!  Here!  in  the  desert!  And  all  unbidden  you 
have  your  Christmas  guest." 

"But  not  unwelcome,"  she  answered.    "Are  )rou  alone?" 

"No ;  I  have  two  comrades."  He  whistled  a  low  note  and  they 
came  out  from  the  yuccas  into  the  circle  of  light — ^a  large  gray 
burro  and  a  strange,  beautiful  animal  with  the  graceful  head  of  a 
deer  and  big,  dark  eyes  that  were  almobt  human  in  their  soft- 
ness. Both  were  packed — the  burro  with  a  prospector's  outfit 
of  food  and  blankets,  with  tools  and  rifle  strapped  on  top;  the 
other  with  a  worn  and  dusty  canvas  case. 

"Unpack  your  animals  and  stay  with  us  tonight,"  said  the 
man  on  the  bed.  "We  can  give  you  a  Christmas  supper  of  bread 
and  coffee." 

"I've  had  supper,  thank  you;  but  I'd  be  glad  to  talk  awhile. 
It's  a  good  many  months  since  I've  heard  any  voice  but  my 
own." 

He  led  the  burro  outside  the  camp  and  took  off  the  pack, 
then  he  unfastened  the  canvas  case  and  came  back  to  the  fire. 

The  burro  began  picking  the  coarse  grass  among  the  cactus 
clumps,  but  the  other  one  followed  his  master  into  the  light,  as 
if  questioning  his  safety  in  that  strange  company. 

"What  is  it?"  asked  the  woman. 

"A  deer,  a  mule  deer.  See  the  long  ears.  They  have  no 
horns,  and  here  in  the  desert  they  are  always  the  color  of  the 
sand.  Go,  Amigo ;  go  and  find  your  supper,"  and  he  turned  the 
beautiful  head  toward  the  forest. 

"There  goes  my  friend.  Jack  is  the  best  servant  a  man  could 
ask ;  but  Amigo  is  more — ^he  is  a  friend.  He  never  leaves  me ;  he 
will  stop  feeding  at  night  to  come  and  lie  at  my  feet  and  keep 
guard.    He  comes  of  brave  blood ;  it  is  'like  mother,  like  son.' 

"I  found  him  three  years  ago  in  the  Hacuavar  mountains. 
Some  hunter  had  shot  the  mother  and  she  had  fallen  on  the 
trail  as  she  tried  with  her  last  strength  to  lead  her  fawn  to  the 
one  water-hole  on  that  side  of  the  desert.  She  died  trying  to 
give  the  little  fellow  his  chance  for  life ;  her  nose,  stiff  and  cold, 
was  laid  over  his  back  when  I  found  them. 

"I  carried  him  ten  miles  to  the  water  on  my  shoulders — and 
last  summer  he  paid  it  back.    A  rattlesnake  had  coiled  almost  at 


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572  OUT    WEST 

my  head  while  I  slept  Amigo  came  in  from  feeding  and  saw  it. 
He  drew  all  four  feet  together  and  leaped  on  the  thing  and 
crushed  its  life  out  before  I  knew  my  danger.  Now  he  never 
leaves  me  after  I  spread  the  blankets  at  night  You  see  each  of 
us  owes  his  life  to  the  other;  we  are  blood  brothers.  But  how 
do  you  come  so  far  out  of  the  way?" 

"They  sent  us  on  an  old  road  from  Plumosa  to  Congress; 
they  said  it  was  shorter.  We've  followed  every  old  pack-trail  on 
the  desert,  I  think ;  if  we've  missed  one  we're  sure  to  find  it  to- 
morrow." The  man  laughed,  shifting  his  head  on  the  roll  ot 
bedding.  "I  wouldn't  mind  it  but  our  grub-box  is  empty — ^and 
my  pocket,  too,  for  that  matter.  I'm  a  lot  stronger,  though. 
I'll  get  work  at  Congress." 

"Not  yet!"  cried  the  woman,  throwing  the  end  of  a  blanket 
across  his  shoulders.  "I'll  earn  our  next  'grub-stake;'  they  al- 
ways want  cooks  at  a  mine  like  that.  You  shall  not  take  the 
risk  now,  just  when  we've  made  the  chance  sure." 

She  had  forgotten  the  stranger  in  this,  which  was  plainly  an 
old  anxiety.  Unconsciously  she  was  telling  him  all.  It  was  a 
relief  to  talk  to  this  quiet  man  who  lay  beside  the  fire,  question- 
ing now  and  then  with  the  directness  of  one  long  used  to  the 
largeness  of  hills  and  desert. 

While  she  talked,  he  had  drawn  something  out  of  the  dusty 
canvas  case  at  his  side.  When  she  was  done,  he  lifted  it  to  his 
shoulder — a  violin,  the  dark  old  wood  reflecting  the  fire-light 
like  ebony  and  the  carven  head,  a  misshapen  hunchback,  with 
sunken,  uncouth  cheeks  wrapped  in  a  monkish  cowl,  resting 
against  his  hand. 

He  touched  the  bow  to  the  strings,  softly  at  first,  then  surely. 
The  woman  leaned  back  against  the  gray  trunk  of  the  yucca  tree; 
the  anxious  lines  in  her  face  relaxing,  the  whimsical  smile  half 
curving  her  lips.  It  was  as  if  he  had  said:  "You  shall  have 
Christmas,  even  here.    Be  still !    I  am  bringing  it." 

The  music  slipped  out  through  his  hands  like  a  released  spirit 
— lilting  carols — lullabies — fragments  of  play-songs — ^tender  old 
hymns.  He  might  have  been  leading  her  by  the  hand  through 
the  holly-wreathed  memories.  It  was  only  when  she  threw  out 
her  hand  against  the  grim,  sabre-leaved  yucca  limb  that  she 
knew  he  was  playing  for  himself  at  last,  and  forgetful  of  her. 

The  dark  old  wood  seemed  to  throb  like  a  living  thing;  she 
would  have  sworn  that  the  carven  hunchback  moved,  raised  his 
head,  reached  a  thin,  eager  hand  to  the  strings. 

The  music  seemed  to  sweep  up  to  the  great,  low-hung  stars ;  it 
beat  and  surged  and  overflowed  through  the  forest  till  the  desert 


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THE  FRUIT  OF  THE   YUCCA   TREE  573 

was  filled,  and  yet  too  narrow  to  hold  that  mighty  cry  of  a  tor- 
mented soul. 

Now  despairing,  now  pleading,  now  defiant;  it  rose  at  last 
through  heart-breaking  anguish  into  triumph  that  thrilled  and 
called  her  like  an  army  of  bugles.  He  played  it  over  and  over — 
that  strong,  heart-wrung,  inevitable  triumph  at  the  end. 

The  desert  was  gone.  The  yucca  forest  with  the  dim,  low- 
flickering  camp-fire  widened  out  to  a  great  room  ablaze  with 
light.  And  they  that  heard  were  not  just  a  man  on  whom  death 
had  set  his  mark  and  a  woman  lost  in  dreams  against  the  gray- 
ribbed  trunk  of  a  yucca  tree.  Jewels  blazed  there  on  the  white 
shoulders  of  women,  and  the  thronging  men  paid  scarcely  more 
homage  to  one  in  uniform  with  a  broad  scarf  across  his  shoulder 
and  many  orders  of  honor  on  his  breast,  than  to  him  who  stood 
on  the  dim  stage  waiting. 

He  lifted  his  bow;  a  hush  fell  on  the  house;  the  man  in  uni- 
form leaned  far  out  of  his  box  to  listen,  and  tears  were  shining 
on  the  cheeks  of  the  women.  When  it  was  done,  the  crash  of 
applause  shook  the  stage  and  that  forgotten  name  that  was  once 
his  was  on  every  lip — no  just-won  name,  but  one  honored  through 
half  a  world. 

How  the  dark  old  wood  had  throbbed !  How  the  carven  hunch- 
back had  striven  to  rise  and  touch  again  the  beloved  strings  I 
The  hunchback  monk — the  music-mad  wretch  who  had  sold  his 
soul  to  the  devil  for  the  secret  of  that  dark,  resonant  wood  and 
those  graceful,  mysterious  curves!  His  hand  had  set  his  own 
image  there  on  the  head,  to  mar  and  mangle  the  tone  for  all  but 
a  master's  touch,  to  sweep  the  strings  with  the  harmony  of  his 
own  wild  soul  when  kindred  fingers  held  the  bow,  they  said. 
And  it  might  have  been  his  long-dead  self  that  played  that 
night 

Very  quietly  the  player  laid  down  the  bow  and  put  the  violin 
back  in  the  dusty  canvas  case.  The  man  was  asleep  on  the  roll 
of  bedding;  the  woman  was  sitting  with  her  head  on  her  hand, 
staring  into  the  coals  of  the  camp-fire. 

He  roused  her  and  told  her  the  road  they  must  take  in  the 
morning,  drawing  a  map  of  it  in  the  ashes  that  she  might  show 
her  husband.  Then  he  picked  up  the  case  and  held  out  his 
hand. 

"I  will  say  good-night  now ;  I  may  not  see  you  in  the  morning. 
Will  you  shake  hands  with  me?  It  is  a  long  time  since  I  have 
touched  a  woman's  hand.  I  wish  you  a  happy  Christmas — the 
happiest  possible — ^and  a  safe  journey  to  Congress.  It  has  been 
my  Christmas  gift  to  meet  you." 


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574  OUT    WEST 

"But  you  must  not !"  she  cried,  confusedly.  "You  must  come 
back  to  the  world.    Come  with  us.    Your  music — " 

He  shook  his  head.  His  eyes  had  in  them  the  old,  withdrawn 
aloofness  that  had  died  out  while  he  played.  She  felt  as  if  she 
was  looking  across  interminable  stretches  of  desert  where  the 

gray  sand  blew  and  drifted. 

♦     ♦     ♦ 

Morning  does  not  come  in  the  desert  as  it  comes  in  other  lands. 
There  is  an  hour  of  pale,  dust-sifted  light,  always  increasing,  be- 
fore the  sun  comes.  An  hour  when  the  earth  seems  wrapped 
in  mystery;  and  the  air  has  a  faint,  other-worldly  fragrance, 
haunting  and  intangible,  like  a  breath  of  incense  blown  through 
some  still,  far-doomed  temple. 

The  hills  that  were  red  at  sunset  are  now  blue — pale,  trans- 
lucent, like  hills  seen  in  a  dream — ^and  the  long  sand-washes  and 
mesas  between  are  gray  like  sea  water  on  a  cloudy  day. 

The  woman  had  watched  it  many  times.  To  herself  she  called 
it  her  "hour  of  peace,"  slipped  in  between  the  anxiety  of  yester- 
day and  lost  with  the  night  and  anxiety  of  today  waiting  to  begin 
with  the  sunrise.  She  stopped  heaping  the  pile  of  diy  yucca 
leaves  on  the  ashes  of  the  camp-fire  and  looked  across  the  valley. 

The  eastern  hills,  notched  and  serrated  into  huge,  jagged 
peaks,  were  turning  a  deeper  blue  and  stood  out  boldly  as  if 
hewn  from  blocks  of  lapis  lazuli.  Through  the  lowest  notch  a 
thin  shaft  of  sunshine  broke  and  traveled  across  the  valley.  She 
watched  its  progress ;  it  seemed  so  like  some  living  thing  choos- 
ing its  way.  It  came  down  over  the  wagon  and  the  camp-fire 
and  was  all  but  lost  in  the  shaggy  yucca  leaves. 

She  watched  it  shining  through  the  pearly  mistletoe  berries 
and  among  her  little  parcels  on  the  limb.  Then  it  slipped  on 
across  the  sand  and  she  saw  that  something  else,  a  worn  pouch 
of  buckskin,  was  hanging  just  above  the  rest.  A  note  addressed 
to  herself  was  pinned  with  a  cactus  thorn  to  the  flap. 

The  letters  were  strange  and  foreign  and  the  paper  thin  and 
creased,  as  if  something  had  been  wrapped  in  it  and  carried  a 
long  while  in  a  man's  pocket.  It  was  dim  in  places  as  if  traced 
by  the  uncertain  light  of  a  camp-fire.    She  read  it  slowly: 

"Dear  Madame : — It  will  be  Christmas  morning  when  you  read 
this.  For  the  sake  of  the  day  accept  the  fruit  which  a  stranger 
leaves  on  your  tree.  Take  the  pouch  to  H H ,  at  Con- 
gress; tell  him  you  have  met  the  'desert  fiddler*  and  give  him 
the  note  you  will  find  inside.  Do  what  he  tells  you.  Do  not 
let  your  husband  work ;  he  must  rest  May  there  be  many  happy 
Christmas  days  for  you  both. 

"Your  unbidden  guest, 

"The  Desert  Fiddler." 


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THE  FRUIT  OF  THE  YUCCA   TREE  575 

There  was  nothing  more — ^no  clue.    He  had  gone  in  the  night 

while  they  slept.    The  pouch  was  half  full  of  gold  in  dust  and 

nuggets,  twenty  ounces  perhaps — ^the  slow  hoard  of  years. 

♦    ♦    ♦ 

There  is  a  little  nook  in  the  canon  below  the  mine  at  Congress, 
hedged  in  by  granite  boulders  and  over-grown  grove-like  with 
giant  cactus.  They  lift  their  clumsy  branches  above  the  great, 
many-fluted  trunks  like  arms  and  there  is  something  human  in 
their  waiting  attitude.  Spring  crowns  them  with  a  brief  glory 
of  clustered  blossoms  like  carven  snow,  honey-sweet  and  rich 
and  tempting  the  wild  bees  and  birds. 

They  had  blossomed  twice,  overlooking  the  low,  brown  house 
at  their  feet,  when  a  man  came  up  the  narrow  trail  through  the 
desert  twilight,  followed  by  a  gray  burro.  He  carried  a  dusty 
canvas  case  in  his  hand  and,  as  he  drew  near,  a  woman  opened 
the  door  and  came  out — ^alone.  He  touched  her  hand  a  mo- 
ment; then  he  sat  down  on  the  step  and  began  to  play. 

It  was  the  music  of  the  yucca  forest,  that  heart-wrung  triumph 
of  a  soul  in  battle ;  but  tempered  now  with  something  infinitely 
sad,  infinitely  tender. 

"Will  you  keep  Jack  for  me?"  he  said,  when  it  was  done. 
"Amigo  is  dead — I  cannot  tell  you  now.  I  cannot  stay  in  the 
desert.    I  am  going  back  to  the  world." 

Loc  Anffelet 


THE  SHIIKINAH 

By  FREDERICK  HALL 

ArtHE  g^ey  east  whence  they  came  is  roseate  g^own, 
J[      The  new-yoked  oxen  bend  them  to  the  load. 
The  white-topped  wagon  takes  again  the  road 

Unmade,  unmarked,  undreaded  and  unknown. 

The  sage  fowl,  late  in  panic  terror  flown. 
Return  to  claim  their  nests ;  the  boundless  plains 
Once  more  grow  solitary.    Of  man's  stay  remains 

A  camp-fire,  smouldering  into  ash  alone. 

Yet  here  were  mother  love  and  father's  care 
And  children's  laughter.    In  this  cheerful  light 
Their  evening  meal  was  spread;  night's  purple  dome 
Saw  this  smoke  rise  like  incense  with  their  prayer, 
And  through  the  hours  of  dark  and  sleep,  burned  bright 
These  embers  on  the  hearth-^tone  of  a  home. 


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576 

THE   REDWOOD    KING 

By  GEORGE  BURCHARD 

[S  story  had  its  beginning  on  a  Christmas  just 
fifteen  hundred  years  ago. 

The  day  started  in  cloudy  and  dark.  For  a 
whole  week  before  rain  had  fallen  in  a  steady 
downpour.  The  waters  lay  on  the  flats  ankle-deep ; 
the  sloughs  were  brimming  full;  every  creek 
and  river  ran  in  a  boiling  torrent  from  its  moun- 
tain home  toward  the  Pacific  Ocean.  On  this  particular  Christ- 
mas Day,  though  the  rains  ceased  falling,  yet  a  mighty  Fog, 
creeping  landward,  had  enveloped  the  whole  of  the  sea-marsh, 
lying  mile  on  mile  about  the  bay,  where  the  ducks  blackened 
the  waters.  The  Fog  had  penetrated  with  difficulty  the 
dense  clumps  of  alder  and  willow,  of  spruce  and  of  fir,  which 
skirted  the  first  low  rise  of  ground;  but  when  he 
reached  the  forest  beyond,  where  the  giant  redwoods  stood, 
the  Fog  found  himself  hopelessly  entangled  in  an  endless 
maze  of  branches  reaching  so  high  above  the  earth  that  who- 
ever once  entered  those  gloomy  woods  was  lost.  So  it  hap- 
pened that  the  Fog  went  wandering  on  and  on,  among  the  black, 
dark  trees,  across  the  gulches  and  up  and  down  the  mountain- 
side, waiting  for  the  Sun  to  release  him.  For  he  knew  only  too 
well  that,  until  the  Sun  should  come  to  his  aid,  the  branches 
of  the  Redwoods  would  refuse  to  let  him  go. 

The  moss,  which  hung  in  festoons  fifty  feet  from  the  ground, 
dripped  with  fog-damp;  the  licorice-fern,  growing  in  clumps 
from  knots  a  hundred  feet  above  the  ground,  were  wet  with  fog- 
damp;  the  highest  green  branches  of  the  Giant  Redwoods, 
three  hundred  feet  from  the  earth,  drank  in  the  gray  fog  with 
unquenchable  thirst.  In  the  maze  of  their  towering  green 
branches  the  Fog  was  hopelessly  lost. 

So  it  had  come  about  that  the  whole  of  this  Christmas  Day, 
underneath  the  Redwoods,  it  had  remained  as  sombre  as  night 
itself.  Sword-fern,  tall  as  the  horn-tips  of  a  bull-elk,  rhododen- 
drons big  as  apple-trees  and  scarlet-budded,  and  white-flowered 
evergreen  huckleberry  bushes,  spreading  like  a  deep  emerald 
carpet  through  the  silent  forest,  reveled  in  the  visit  of  the 
ocean-child.  About  dawn  the  swamp-robin  had  uttered  a  few 
notes,  but  for  the  most  part  the  solitude  had  been  like  the  hush 
of  the  tomb. 

At  the  head  of  the  gulch,  where  the  first  ridge  rises  sheer  above 
the  North  Bay,  there  was  a  scene  of  desolation ;  for  here  a  storm 
which  swept  landward  the  day  before  had  uprooted  one  of  the 
forest  giants.  So  terrible  had  been  the  downward  plunge  that 
the  tree-top  now  lay  in  a  broken  mass  far  down  the  gulch;  the 
big  trunk  had  been  shattered  into  hundreds  of  pieces,  some  as 
large  as  the  rooms  of  a  house.  For  many  rods  the  sword-fern 
and  rhododendron  were  torn  and  crushed  by  the  flying  branches. 
The  dull  light  of  day  came  streaming  into  the  great  rent  left 
among  the  trees.  The  old  Forest  King  was  dead;  this  is  the 
story  of  his  successor,  as  it  is  reported,  even  to  this  day,  among 
the  forest-folk. 


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THE    REDWOOD    KING  S77 

Strange  things  had  occurred  that  morning  near  the  up-turned 
roots  of  the  fallen  tree.  A  bull-elk  brushed  past,  tramping  on  his 
way  to  the  open  prairie-field  by  the  river.  In  the  soft,  oozy 
humus,  where  his  foot  was  planted,  he  left  a  hole  three  inches 
deep,  into  which  the  water  quickly  settled.  The  bull-elk  passed 
on.  He  did  not  know,  nor  would  he  have  cared  had  he  known, 
how  close  his  clumsy  hoof  came  to  the  upward-struggling  stem 
of  the  infant  Redwood  tree.  But  the  bud  felt  the  earth  shake 
as  it  had  shaken  yesterday  in  the  tempest,  for  the  elk's  hoof  had 
only  missed  crushing  the  bud  by  a  space  less  than  the  breadth  of 
a  man's  little  finger.  But  when  the  ground  again  became  quiet 
the  tiny  bud,  gathering  together  all  its  strength,  made  another 
effort  and  pushed  out  of  the  dark  ground  into  the  world  of  fog- 
damp  above. 

It  was  at  this  very  instant  that  a  sunbeam,  cutting  its  way 
downward,  making  a  path  through  the  fog-drift,  touched  the 
new-born  bud  with  a  halo  of  light.  The  kiss  of  the  Sun  came 
with  all  the  sweetness  of  the  Christmas  morn  to  a  child's  heart, 
and  the  young  Redwood  King  lifted  himself  higher  than  ever, 
looking  with  wonder,  not  unmixed  with  envy,  at  the  broken,  fog- 
bedraggled  sword-fern  which  over-topped  him  hard  by.  The 
long  imprisonment  in  the  moist,  black  earth,  the  frightful  strug- 
gle upward  through  a  tangled  mass  of  fibrous  fern-roots,  were 
forgotten ;  the  magic  sunbeam  opened,  as  it  were,  the  vista  of  a 
new  world,  and  the  tiny  heart  of  the  infant  tree  thrilled  for  the 
first  time  with  the  ineffable  sense  of  Light.  From  that  hour  it 
became  the  one  aspiration  of  its  being,  it  became  his  one  daily 
prayer;  for  it  is  reported  among  the  forest-folk  that  the  Red- 
wood trees  always  strive  and  grow  upward  to  enjoy  the  beauty 

and  the  glory  of  the  day. 

*    *    * 

The  years  passed  into  centuries,  and  the  centuries  still  found 
the  Redwood  King  struggling  upward  for  a  larger  and  freer 
light. 

Long,  long  since,  the  sword-fern  ceased  to  trouble  him  with 
its  bigness;  even  the  rhododendrons,  which  once  looked  so 
huge,  were  forgotten.  The  young  giant  was  no  longer  looked 
upon  with  contempt  by  even  the  biggest  brothers  of  the  forest. 
Happily,  too,  his  roots  were  planted  in  the  very  crest  of  the 
hill,  and  his  commanding  station  added  much  to  his  majestic 
stateliness  of  form. 

By  the  end  of  the  fifth  century  the  Redwood  King  was  al- 
ready a  marked  tree. 

In  times  gone  by,  when  the  Redwood  King's  head  was  less 
high,  the  scolding  blue-jay  often  perched  in  his  boughs;  but 
at  last  there  came  a  day  when  a  bald-eagle,  sweeping  round  and 
round  in  mighty  circles,  selected  the  Redwood  King,  out  of  all 
the  forest  brotherhood,  because  from  his  branches,  in  a  glance 
of  the  eye,  one  got  a  view  of  the  whole  of  the  North  Bay.  That 
was  indeed  a  proud  moment  in  the  young  giant's  life ;  not  a  tree 
of  the  forest  but  would  have  given  his  largest  and  finest  branch 
to  have  won  such  distinction  I 

"Surely  he  cannot  help  liking  such  a  prospect,"  thought  the 
King  to  himself.    "In  a  single  glance  he  can  see  the  whole  of 
the  bay  and  marsh,  the  ocean,  the  forest  and  the  mountain-side.  OqIc 
He  may  build  his  nest  in  my  branches  if  he  wishes."  ^ 


578  OUT    IVBST 

The  next  day  the  eagle  returned  with  his  mate  and  they  built 
their  nest  of  sticks  in  the  topmost  crotch  of  the  Redwood  King. 
This  was  very  long  ago.  As  men  measure  time  it  was  in  the  same 
year  in  which  King  Alfred  of  Eneland  made  Guthrum,  the  Dane, 
acknowledge  himself  Alfred's  man"  and  himself  became  a 
Christian.  But  in  the  forest  which  overlooks  the  North  Bay  it 
is  known  among  the  brotherhood  as  the  ''Era  of  the  Bald-Eagle." 
From  that  day  forth,  generation  after  generation  continued  to 
home  in  the  branches  of  the  Redwood  King.  Of  course,  as  every- 
one knows,  trees  do  not  measure  time  in  the  same  way  as  do  men. 
Among  the  Redwoods  years  are  unknown ;  they  date  everything 
from  some  important  event  So  it  came  to  pass  that  the  Era 
of  the  Bald-Eagle  was  used  for  so  many  generations  as  a  cen- 
tury-post. But  by  and  by  the  origin  of  this  era  became  so  dim 
a  memory  that  even  the  Redwoods  wished  for  a  newer  event 
by  which  to  divide  the  ages.  This  explains  why  the  forest-folk 
next  speak  of  an  era  known  as  that  of  the  "White-Winged  Bird." 

That,  too,  was  very  long  ago — as  men  would  say,  "back  about 
Shakespeare's  time." 

It  appears  that  one  day,  when  the  Sun  had  arisen  above  the 
mountain-top  like  a  ball  of  molten  gold,  the  Fog,  who  had  been 
wandering  for  weeks  in  the  thick  forest,  as  in  a  prison-house, 
again  besought  the  Sun  to  release  him;  and  this  time  the  Sun 
heard  the  Fc^s  prayer  and  set  him  free.  Then  there  broke  a  wide 
rift  in  the  sea  of  fog-cloud :  the  bald,  granite  summit  thrust  his 
head  into  the  deep  blue  sky;  vast  ridges,  whose  rocky  ribs 
supported  the  mountain,  with  sides  all  clad  in  darkest  green, 
next  emerged ;  soon  the  North  Bay  glistened  respendently  in  the 
sunlight,  and  at  last  Old  Ocean  again  turned  his  face  towards  the 
unclouded  heavens,  reflecting  in  his  changing  countenance  the 
infinite  peace  of  the  world.  A  white  object  was  afloat  on  the 
wide  expanse. 

The  Redwood  King  gazed  over  the  sea  of  waters  and  re- 
ported back  to  his  forest  brethren,  who  grew  lower  down  Uie 
gulch,  the  strange  sight  he  saw : 

"'Tis  a  mighty  white-winged  bird;  he  floats  on  the  sea  of 
waters  like  a  duck ;  the  spread  of  his  glistening  wings  is  bigger 
than  that  of  a  hundred  eagles.  Now  he  touches  the  land ;  from 
out  of  his  body  come  trooping  the  forms  of  men  walking;  their 
skins  do  not  appear  red,  as  our  own  forest-dwellers,  but  white 
like  the  big  bird's  wings." 

As  men  reckon  events,  it  may  have  been  a  visit  of  that  famous 
navigator.  Sir  Francis  Drake,  when  passing  on  his  way  around 
the  world.  But  the  forest-folk  still  speak  of  the  era  as  that  of 
the  White- Wineed  Bird,  and  allude  to  some  strange  and  un- 
wonted event  which  occurred  a  century  or  two  since. 

So  it  was  that  the  Redwood  King  continued  to  grow  and 
flourish.  Every  century  saw  his  head  lifted  higher  into  the 
heavens ;  every  century  he  pushed  his  enormous  roots  deeper  into 
the  soil.  When  the  northwest  storm  blew  fiercest  from  the 
ocean,  he  only  swayed  back  and  forth  in  slow,  rhythmic  motion, 
as  immovable  as  the  rocks  on  which  he  stood. 

In  later  years,  when  more  and  more  white-skinned  men  came 
and  built  their  cabins  at  the  base  of  the  gulch,  hard  by  the  shore 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


THE    REDWOOD    KING  579 

of  the  North  Bay,  the  Redwood  King  could  look  down  upon 
the  log  buildings  and  watch  the  curious  doings.-  He  first  saw 
the  men  enter  the  North  Bay,  floating  in  on  the  waters  in  the 
body  of  other  white-winged  birds;  they  next  landed  on  the 
shores  and  built  their  cabins  by  felling  the  smaller  trees.  From 
morning  until  night,  year  after  year,  the  sound  of  the  ax  and 
the  crunching  of  the  saw  re-echoed  through  the  wood.  Every 
day  more  and  more  trees  fell  with  a  crash  to  the  ground.  These 
same  white-skinned  men  built  a  large  building,  into  which  the 
reluctant  logs  were  dragged,  and  from  which  they  emerged 
again  in  the  shape  of  lumber.  Day  by  day  the  assault  on  the 
forest  brotherhood  grew  more  relentless  and  destructive. 

At  length  a  forest  princess,  who  had  long  stood  at  the  foot 
of  the  gulch,  was  ruthlessly  attacked  by  two  choppers.  Many 
young  trees,  having  been  laid  low  to  form  a  bed  into  which 
the  young  princess  was  to  fall,  the  choppers,  with  ax  and  saw, 
worked  lustily  away.  Towards  the  second  night  the  Redwood 
King,  with  a  thrill  of  horror,  saw  his  fair  companion  topple 
heavily  to  the  ground.  In  the  clearing  beneath  him  the  fires 
burned  fiercely;  when  the  flames  had  finally  consumed  the 
branches  and  the  bark,  the  ox-teams  came  and  dragged  the  tree 
away  in  sections  to  feed  the  insatiate  mill. 

That  night  the  old  eagle  told  his  mate  and  nestlings,  all  of 
whom  had  happily  learned  to  fly  and  to  soar,  that  on  the  mor- 
row the  choppers  would  attack  the  Redwood  King.  So  at  the 
first  gray  streaks  of  dawn  the  Bald-Eagle  and  his  family  spread 
their  wings  and  deserted  their  nest  of  sticks  and  accumulated 
bones.  With  the  coming  sunrise  the  choppers  arrived.  All  that 
day  and  the  following  3ie  Redwood  King  watched  the  woods- 
men chop  all  manner  of  smaller  trees,  and  he  knew  they  were 
making  a  bed  into  which  they  intended  he  should  fall  with  the 
least  possible  injury  to  his  burly  strength.  A  wind  sprang  up 
from  the  ocean  and  sighed  regretfully  through  the  green 
branches ;  the  Gray-Fog  expressed  his  silent  grief  in  tear-drops, 
which  fell  like  a  shower  of  rain  from  the  King^s  boughs. 

A  fortnight  later,  and  the  stately  grandeur  of  the  Redwood 
King  had  become  only  a  forest  memory.  The  bands  of  chop- 
pers, and  their  helpers,  the  peelers  and  the  sawyers,  had  indeed 
done  their  work.  Even  his  coat  of  bark,  two  feet  in  thickness, 
which  had  covered  the  big  tree,  had  been  burned,  along  with 
cords  and  cords  of  enormous  limt^.  The  massive  trunk  had  been 
sawed  into  logs  of  unprecedented  size;  the  largest  cut,  so  the 
wood-boss  declared,  measured  full  thirty  feet  in  diameter. 

Only  one  log  remained,  the  biggest  and  largest  cut.  All  the 
rest  of  the  tree  had  been  painfully  dragged  by  patient  ox-teams 
down  the  skid-road  to  the  mill.  But  in  this — ^the  butt-log  of  the 
Redwood  King — seemed  to  be  concentrated  all  the  innate  stub- 
bornness of  the  royal  race.  For  one  entire  day  a  dozen  ox-teams 
toiled  and  struggled  to  move  the  huge  mass  of  wood,  but  in  vain, 
until  the  boss  bethought  him  of  a  charge  of  dynamite:  by  the 
aid  of  the  explosive  he  succeeded  in  splitting  the  body  of  the  log 
in  two.  This  in  truth  cracked  the  heart  of  the  stubborn  old 
King  and  he  made  n6  further  resistance  on  his  road  to  the  mill. 

Areata,  H«aiboldt  Co.,  CaL 


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580 

"IRISH   DIVILS'* 

By  M.  W.  LORAINE 

THE  ould  man  had  his  way,  he'd  be  after  takin'  some 
of  that  dynamite  and  blowin'  us  clare  into — " 
"Sh-sh!"  warned  the  superintendent,  and  Big  Mike 
turned,  to  swing  his  hammer  down  upon  a  spike  with 
emphasis  that  completed  the  sentence.  Grace  Mor- 
daunt,  the  "ould  man's"  daughter,  had  paused  behind 
them. 

She  held  an  armful  of  California  holly  and  long  ferns, 
their  fronds  the  more  vividly  green  against  the  white 
of  her  soft,  warm  gown,  and  about  her  was  clinging  the  scent 
of  trampled  bracken,  faint,  woodsy,  delicious.  The  wind  cut 
down  through  this  pass  of  the  Santa  Ynez  mountains,  tossing 
her  hair  in  a  yellow  mist  from  under  her  hat;  it  whipped  back 
her  skirts,  and  blew  wild  roses  into  her  cheeks.  Suddenly  a 
perfect  billow  came  whirling  down,  threatening  to  carry  her 
with  it  in  its  mad  rush  to  the  Pacific. 

Mr.  Loring  sprang  to  her  side,  and  as  he  drew  her  hand  through 
his  arm,  a  lock  of  her  hair,  faintly  fragrant  with  the  perfume  of 
the  woods,  was  flung  across  his  cheek.  He  caught  his  breath, 
saying,  reproachfully,  "You've  been  in  the  mountains  alone  I" 

"Yes,  and  see  what  I've  found!  holly,  and  golden-backed 
ferns!" 

Gleefully  she  pressed  one  of  the  smallest  ferns  to  her  cheek, 
where  it  left  the  tracery  of  its  shape  in  a  delicate  dust  of  gold. 
"You  found  no  mistletoe?" 
"I  didn't  see  any." 

"May  I  bring  you  some  for  a  Christmas  present?" 
The  girl  lowered  her  eyes;  with  a  filmy  handkerchief  she 
brushed  the  gold  dust  from  her  cheek. 

"What  a  difference  between  this  and  last  Christmas,"  she  ob- 
served hurriedly.  "Then  we  were  in  Maine  and  had  snow. 
Now — look  at  those  trees  with  their  veiling  of  moss,  and  the 
grass  has  hardly  begun  to  yellow.  And  the  water's  running  in 
the  creek!"    Her  voice  itself  was  like  rippling  water. 

"I'm  going  to  get  you  some  mistletoe,"  said  her  companion. 
He  was  a  persistent  man. 
"Are  you  on  your  way  to  the  camp,  Mr.  Loring?" 
"Yes.    I  must  see  Mr.  Mordaunt.    Will  you  come?" 
"Not  yet.     It  stifles  me,  down  in  the  camp.    I  like  the  open 
better." 

He  found  a  broad,  flat  rock  in  the  shade  of  a  tree  that  pro- 
tected her  from  view  of  the  workmen,  and  left  her.  She  noticed 
that  Big  Mike  followed  him  down  to  her  father's  tent,  immedi- 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


''IRISH    DIVILS"  581 

ately  back  of  the  long,  low  hut  of  sweet-smelling  lumber,  where 
the  section-hands  ate  their  meals. 

She  could  hear  the  cling-clang-cling  of  their  heavy  hammers, 
making  wood  and  steel  grow  together;  she  could  see  the  shin- 
ing rails  in  parallel  lines  flash  red  beneath  the  western  sun; 
and,  when  the  men  idled,  the  wind  blew  her  their  words.  They 
were  a  rebellious  set  of  Irishmen. 

Mr.  Mordaunt,  accustomed  to  the  New  England  type  of  work- 
ingmen  only,  had  yet  to  learn  how  to  treat  men  confessedly 
"ferninst  the  Government,"  and  his  superintendent,  a  young 
Westerner,  was  all  that  had  stood  between  the  contractor  and 
ruinous  strikes  for  months.  Perhaps  the  task  would  have  been 
too  ungrateful  even  for  Loring,  had  it  not  been  for  his  hope  of 
winning  Grace  Mordaunt  for  his  wife.  And  his  pleading,  so  far, 
had  been  in  vain 

Peering  round  the  tree,  Grace  saw  Big  Mike,  six  feet  four 
and  as  strong  as  a  bull,  striding  back  to  his  friends,  of  whom  he 
was  leader.  He  threw  his  hat  into  the  air,  and  the  words  came 
tumbling  out  of  his  mouth. 

"I've  jist  been  down  to  the  conthractor's  tint,  standin'  pritty 
close  up,  d'ye  mind,  to  the  flap.  The  boss  was  shpittin'  wurrds 
and  tobaccy  jooce  all  over  the  place,  and  Jack  Lorin'  he  sez, 
sez'ee:  'They're  a-goin'  to  Santa  Barrbarra,  fur  tomorrow,' 
sez'ee.  And  the  conthractor  sez,  sez'ee:  Tell  them  they  can't 
go :  I  rayfuse  me  permission,'  sez'ee,  as  grand  as  a  jooke.  And 
thin—" 

"Phwat  else  was  he  after  sayin'?"  came  in  a  dozen  eager 
voices. 

"I  do'no,  at  all,  at  all,"  answered  Mike,  loftily,  leaning  on  the 
great  hammer  that  no  other  man  in  the  camp  could  swing.  "I'm 
no  aves-dropper,  I'll  have  yiz  to  understand.  Besides,  I  had 
heard  all  I  went  there  to  hear.  We'll  stale  a  locomotive  tonight, 
me  b'ys,  an'  we'll  niver  come  back  no  more.  Down  wid  all 
tyrants,  sez  I,  an'  down  wid  a  man  that'd  grind  yer  faces  intil 
a  railroad  tie  on  the  blissed  Christmas  day !  He'll  not  be  able  to 
finish  this  work  in  six  wakes  widout  his  forty  Irish  divils,  as  he 
calls  us.  It's  us  as  can  make  him  or  break  him,  an'  we'll  break 
him,  me  lads,  an'  let  him  put  that  in  his  pipe  and  shmoke  it! 
Hooray,  hooray,  hooray!" 

The  spirit  of  insurrection  was  abroad  in  the  pass,  and  the  hills 
gave  back  wild  echoes  of  the  cheering.  Grace  shivered.  Except 
Norah,  Mike's  wife,  she  was  the  only  woman  in  camp.  She  knew, 
too,  that  the  forfeits,  attached  to  each  day's  delay  after  the  con- 
tract-time expired,  would  spell  ruin  in  less  than  a  week. 

Hardly  had  the  men  ceased  their  hurrahing,  when  Jack  Loring 


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582  OUT    W&ST 

came  leisurely  up  the  path,  an  unlighted  cigar  in  his  mouth.  He 
stopped  near  Big  Mike,  and,  for  all  his  six  feet  and  broad  shoul- 
ders, the  superintendent  looked  but  a  pigmy  beside  the  giant, 
who  had  by  this  time  got  his  pipe  into  his  mouth  and  was  puff- 
ing out  smoke  in  belligerent  mouthfuls. 

"Give  us  a  light,  Mike.  Thanks."  Puff,  puff,  puff.  "By  the 
way,  if  any  of  you  boys  want  to  spend  Christmas  in  town,  you'd 
better  get  your  kid  gloves  into  your  suitcases;  ninety-eight 
leaves  at  six  o'clock  sharp." 

"Yis,  sorr,"  answered  Mike  with  an  unwilling  grin,  and  half- 
sheepish.    "Thank  you,  sorr." 

Low  and  delightedly  Grace  Mordaunt  laughed,  and  Loring 
sauntered  toward  her.  The  minute  his  back  was  turned,  half  the 
gang  quit  work  to  crowd  around  Mike. 

"How  did  you  win  over  my  father,  Mr.  Loring?"  asked  Grace 
as  the  young  man  flung  himself  down  in  the  grass  at  her  feet 

"Bullied  him  into  it,  Miss  Mordaunt,  and  Til  have  to  go  with 
them.  Fancy  spending  Christmas  with  forty  wild  Irishmen 
down  in  the  town — and  you  up  here!" 

"How  grateful  the  men  will  be  to  you,"  observed  the  girl. 

"Not  in  the  least,"  answered  Jack.  "Permission  takes  half 
the  flavor  out  of  an  Irishman's  fun."    • 

"You  have  a  great  influence  over  Big  Mike,  though." 

"No.  He  simply  never  gets  a  chance  to  quarrel  with  me,  that's 
all.    Listen  to  that!" 

They  turned  their  faces  toward  the  men,  now  idling  in  earnest 

"Jack  Lorin's  a  polly-tishun,  that's  phwat  he  is,"  announced 
Mike. 

"An'  phwat's  a  polly-tishun,  Mickey  dear?" 

"A  polly-tishun  s  a  man  phwat  siz  grace  wid  a  smile,  when  the 
cuss  wurrds  is  tearin'  his  vitals." 

"It  doesn't  sound  like  affection,"  conceded  Grace  with  a  laugh. 

"No.  But  when  I  can't  win  the  affection  of  the  woman  I  love, 
how  can  I  hope  to  make  a  man  love  me?  One,  two,  three,  four, 
five." 

"What  in  the  world  are  you  doing?"  asked  Grace  with  height- 
ened color. 

"Counting  the  dimples  in  your  hand,"  he  answered  innocently. 
"Don't  you  think  you  will  ever  love  me  a  little?"  It  was  by  no 
means  the  first  time  he  had  asked  it 

"I  might,"  she  mocked  him,  "if  you  brought  all  the  forty  back 
from  town  tomorrow." 

This  was  setting  love  a  task,  indeed,  for  at  least  six  or  eig^t 
of  them  got  into  trouble  and  jail  on  every  trip  into  town.  It 
was  small  wonder  that  the  contractor  was  loath  to  let  them  go, 
with  the  end  of  the  contract-time  in  sight  and  men  so  scarce 
that  it  would  be  impossible  to  fill  their  places. 

Jack  lifted  the  hand  he  held  toward  his  lips,  but  Grace  drew 
it  away.    "You've  no  mistletoe,"  she  objected. 

"If  I  bring  home  the  men  and  some  mistletoe,  then?"  he  asked 
eagerly. 

"Then — perhaps!"  She  sprang  up,  nodding  her  head  and 
laughing  at  him.  Flitting  toward  the  camp  she  glanced  back 
once  and  saw  Jack  standing  by  the  rock,  on  his  face  a  look  that 


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''IRISH    DIVILS"  583 

set  her  heart  leaping.  The  cook's  horn  sounded  and  the  men 
threw  down  their  hammers. 

Jack  knew  to  a  minute  how  they  would  spend  the  time  before 
the  train  left  They  would  file  down  to  the  creek  and  wash; 
file  up  to  the  hut  and  silently  eat;  at  ten  minutes  to  six  they 
would  be  in  a  line  in  front  of  the  tent  to  get  the  week's  pay  that 
was  due  them.  The  superintendent  had  told  them  that  the  train 
would  pull  out  at  six,  but  fifteen  minutes  before  that  hour  the 
whistle  was  shrieking,  and  cries  of  "All  aboard,  all  aboard!" 
made  them  jump  from  their  unfinished  meal  and  run  for  the 
track. 

Half  way  to  town  someone  discovered  that  they  were  out  for 
a  pleasure  trip  without  money.     Mike  was  promptly  besieged. 

"Ax  the  superintendent  for  some/'  the  men  urged. 

"Why,  Mike,  I'm  pretty  near  broke,"  said  the  superintendent 
genially.  "But  the  treat  shall  be  mine.  To  think  we  should 
have  forgotten  the  pay!" 

"Forgotten  the  pay!    He  said  forgotten!"  murmured  Mike. 

The  men  grumbled  a  little,  but  considered  Jack's  offer  some- 
thing of  an  atonement.  As  for  Mike,  a  slow  anger  was  kindling 
in  his  heart.  That  he  had  no  cause  for  a  quarrel  was  almost  fuel 
enough  to  start  o^e,  when  a  quarrel  was  what  he  most  longed 
for. 

Once  in  the  town.  Jack  led  them  into  a  great  shop  filled  with 
Christmas  goods,  Where  he  lavishly  ordered  whatever  took  the 
men's  fancy.  Out  of  the  tail  of  his  eye  he  saw  Mike  surrepti- 
tiously smoothing  a  fold  of  pink  cotton,  sprigged  with  leaves  of 
shamrock. 

"Let  me  order  ten  yards  for  a  dress  for  Norah,"  suggested  the 
superintendent.  But  Mike  refused  to  ^o  into  debt  His  under  lip 
was  pushed  out ;  thrusting  his  hands  mto  his  pockets,  he  turned 
away. 

Someone  proposed  a  drink,  and  Mike  was  the  last  to  leave  the 
store,  last  to  enter  the  bar-room. 

"Sorry,  sir,"  said  the  grinning,  white-aproned  man  back  of  the 
bar,  after  one  drink  around,,  "sorry,  but  it's  against  the  rules 
of  the  house  to  charge  over  forty-one  drinks  to  a  party.  That's 
just  the  limit,  sir,  forty-one." 

"As  if  I  hadn't  seen  Jack  Lorin'  tip  him  the  wink,"  muttered 
Mike.  "I've  a  mind  to  shoot  up  the  place  and  give  the  b'ys  a 
trate  they'll  remimber  for  life." 

"Se  here,  Mike,"  called  Jack  from  the  doorway.  "There's  a 
tug-o'-war  to  be  pulled  at  the  City  Hall  this  evening,  and  they 
say  Jose  Morales  has  bet  all  he's  worth  on  the  firemen.  Got 
eleven  other  strong  men  in  your  crowd?" 

"Have  I  ?"  asked  Mike  with  contempt.  Morales  was  one  of  his 
oldest  enemies.  "I've  got  ilivin  min  that  can  drag  any  twinty 
they  have  clane  intil  the  ocean.    But  we're  not  goin'  to  pull." 

"Oh,  very  well,"  answered  Jack,  carelessly.  "They  tell  me 
an  Irish  team  was  proposed,  but  Morales  said  'twas  no  use — that 
no  dozen  Irishmen  could  beat  the  Mexican  team,  let  alone  the 
firemen." 

"That's  phwat  he  said !"  bristled  the  giant.  "Here,  you,  Path- 
rick  Mahoney,  pick  out  tin  other  b'ys  and  come  on!  We'll  show 
thim  Greasers — " 

Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


584  OUT    WEST 

Jack  turned  away  with  a  smile.  The  forty  were  soon  on  their 
way  to  the  hall,  where  two  planks,  opposite  each  other,  had  been 
firmly  cleated,  one  end  of  each  elevated  and  secured  to  a  high 
wooden  horse.  One  of  these  planks  was  braced  close  to  the 
building,  clearing  the  wall  by  a  few  inches  only.  Between  the 
ends  that  rested  on  the  ground  lay  a  strong  hempen  rope,  run 
through  a  swivel. 

When  Loring  and  his  men  joined  the  onlookers,  the  firemen 
were  pulling  against  a  Dutch  team.  After  the  latter  had  been 
dragged  half  way  down  the  plank  and  held  there  until  the  time 
was  up,  a  Mexican  team  took  the  plank;  and  it,  too,  came  to 
grief.  Quite  easily  had  the  firemen  won  the  championship  of  the 
town.  They  stepped  down  to  the  ground  amid  the  cheers  of  the 
many,  including  the  judge  — ^Jose  Morales — who  had  bet  on  the 
firemen.  Then  Jack,  parting  the  crowd  with  his  twelve  brawny 
men,  announced  that  another  team  was  ready  to  contest 

The  judge  paused,  dismayed.  Before  him  stood  twelve  red- 
headed giants,  all  of  them  seasoned  b^  toughening  labor,  not  a 
man  under  six  feet,  and  two  of  them  six  feet  four. 

"They're  all  reds,"  chuckled  someone  in  the  crowd. 

"An'  all  twins!"  roared  back  Mike. 

The  firemen  gathered  around  Morales  and  consulted.  To  re- 
fuse to  meet  the  newcomers  was  out  of  the  question.  The  judge 
whispered  to  the  saddleman  and  the  weary  leader  ascended  the 
plank,  whose  elevated  end  was  close  to  the  hall  and  hidden  from 
observation.    He  had  before  pulled  on  the  opposite  plank. 

The  twelve  "twins"  were  stripped  to  the  waist.  Jack  had 
taken  charge  of  their  pistols  and  was  helping  Mike  saddle.  It 
was  by  right  of  his  size  and  strength  that  Mike  was  to  take  the 
upper  end  of  the  plank,  and  the  saddle.  The  broad,  stiff  piece  of 
leather,  padded  inside,  and  fitting  close  to  his  monstrous  hips, 
he  cinched  up  with  vigorous  jerks;  after  which  Jack  drew  the 
rope  through  the  brass  ring  dangling  down  from  the  girth,  and 
knotted  it  there.  This  arrangement  gives  the  most  powerful 
man  in  the  team  the  extra  advantage  of  leaving  his  hands  free 
to  grip  the  sides  of  the  plank ;  with  his  feet  braced  on  a  cleat,  he 
can  pull  with  body  and  arms  and  legs,  using  every  muscle. 

The  Irishmen  took  their  places,  the  new  rope  slack  in  their 
hard,  brown  hands.  The  sight  of  so  many  magnificent  half- 
naked  bodies  drew  clucks  of  admiration  from  the  crowd.  Morales, 
however,  gave  vent  to  no  enthusiastic  remarks.  He  had  five  hun- 
dred dollars  up  on  the  firemen.  A  half-breed  Mexican,  he  pos- 
pessed  all  the  vices  of  the  Latin  and  the  Anglo-Saxon  races,  and 
the  virtues  of  neither. 

He  tied  a  blue  ribbon  exactly  half-way  between  the  ends  of 
the  rope.  When  time  was  called,  by  his  shooting  a  pistol,  a  grip 
would  descend  and  hold  this  ribbon  in  place,  showing  by  how 
many  inches  the  victors  had  won. 

"Ready?"  called  out  Morales.    "Pull!" 

The  Irishmen  put  forth  their  mighty  strength.  No  result ;  only 
the  ribbon  ends  fluttered.  Jack  glanced  swiftly  at  the  judge; 
on  Morales'  lips  hovered  a  quiet  sneer.  The  firemen  were  pull- 
ing with  every  ounce  they  could  muster ;  they  were  strong  enough 
men,  but  pigmies  beside  the  twelve  "twins,"  and  tired,  besides, 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


''IRISH    DIVILS"  58S 

from  their  previous  efforts.  But  when  Jack's  eyes  again  sought 
the  ribbon,  it  was  sliding  slowly  away  from  the  swivel  and 
toward  the  firemen. 

Every  muscle  in  the  Irish  team  was  strained;  yet  Mike  was 
pulled  down  a  cleat,  his  eyes  bulging;  never  before  had  defeat 
waited  on  him  in  any  trial  of  strength.  In  his  surprise  he  lost 
his  grip  on  the  plank,  and  he  and  the  others  took  another  step 
downward,  their  faces  ludicrous  with  rage  and  dismay.  They 
put  forth  a  mighty  effort  that  empurpled  their  faces  and  strained 
their  sinews;  it  barely  availed  to  hold  the  rope  steady.  The 
Irishmen  were  panting,  pulling  with  desperation,  anger  and 
shame ;  the  twelve  firemen,  almost  at  ease,  held  the  rope,  without 
giving  an  inch.    The  crowd  was  howling  in  glee. 

Suddenly  Jack  turned  and  elbowed  his  way  through  the  people 
till  he  reached  the  door  of  the  hall,  where  he  had  a  clear  view 
of  the  firemen's  end  man,  who  had  slipped  his  saddle  over  the 
plank,  thus  adding  incalculably  to  the  strength  of  his  position 
and  the  power  of  the  team.  Jack  pushed  back  to  the  clear  space 
around  the  judge  and  called  out:  "Lowry's  saddle's  over  the 
end  of  the  plank,  Morales  I" 

"Oh,  I  guess  not,"  answered  the  man  insolently,  with  a  look  at 
his  watch.    The  time  was  almost  up. 

"Don't  you  do  any  guessing  about  what  I  say,  Seiior  Morales !" 
thundered  the  superintendent.  "Lowry's  saddle  is  over  the  plank, 
and  you  get  it  off  and  be  damned  quick  about  it !" 

Cries  of  "Shame,  shame  I"  and  "Fair  play !"  rang  out,  and  un- 
willingly Morales  signed  to  the  offender  who,  with  reluctance, 
gave  up  the  advantageous  grip  he  had  on  the  plank.  Instantly 
the  rope  slid  back  till  the  ribbon  showed  at  the  swivel.  It  glided, 
slowly,  toward  the  Irishmen,  who,  when  they  had  six  inches 
more  of  the  rope  than  had  their  opponents,  set  up  a  cheer.'  Under 
the  unequal  strain,  Pat  Mahoney  had  burst  a  blood  vessel  and 
now  lay,  almost  senseless,  his  fingers  just  touching  the  rope.  But 
in  spite  of  inferior  numbers  the  ribbon  remained  a  foot  on  the 
Irishmen's  side.  Another  minute,  and  they  .had  gained  an  addi- 
tional foot.  Two  minutes — the  firemen  had  lost  six  inches  more. 
The  time  was  now  up,  and  Jack  looked  expectantly  toward  the 
judge.  Both  held  open  watches.  But  Morales  evidently  had  no 
intention  of  calling  time  while  the  ribbon  was  with  the  strangers. 
Another  minute  ticked  away,  and  the  twelve  firemen,  putting 
forth  a  mighty  effort,  dragged  the  ribbon  a  few  inches  from  their 
eleven  opponents;  but  again  Mike  and  his  men  pulled  it  back. 
Jack  stepped  to  Morales'  side. 

"My  watch  says  that  the  time  is  two  minutes  past." 

Slowly,  an  ugly  look  on  his  face,  Morales  picked  up  his  pistol, 
and  slowly  he  pointed  it  toward  the  moon.  The  seconds  sped 
away,  the  ribbon  almost  motionless;  Morales,  trifling  with  the 
trigger,  was  giving  his  friends  more  time. 

"Shoot  that  pistol  or  throw  it  away,  you  son-of-a-gun !"  roared 
Loring.    And  Morales  promptly  shot  at  the  moon. 

At  once  the  grip  descended  and  clinched  the  rope,  the  ribbon 
well  to  the  Irishmen's  side  of  the  swivel.  The  crowd  was  cheer- 
ing and  hissing  and  surging  around  Jack  and  Morales,  when  Mike 
leaped  from  his  plank  and  dashed  straight  for  the  hall  dobr,  where 
the  pidtols  were  stacked. 


Digitized  by 


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586  OUT    WEST 

"Run!  Run  for  your  lives!  My  men  are  armed!"  Loring 
shouted. 

There  was  a  scramble  of  men  and  boys  to  get  out  of  the  way  of 
the  wild  Irishmen,  whose  red  hair  and  faces  of  anger  seemed 
flaming  all  over  the  place.  Jack  felt  reasonably  sure  that  no  shots 
would  be  fired  without  example  from  one  of  the  twelve,  and  he 
had  taken  good  care  that  no  such  example  would  be  pven.  Snap, 
snap,  snap,  went  one  empty  pistol  after  another,  and  soon  Mike 
and  his  ten  were  left  standing  alone.  The  town  crowd  had  lost 
no  time  in  scattering;  the  injured  Patrick  had  been  carried  to  the 
cars  by  his  friends ;  and  now  from  out  the  distance  Loring's  voice 
floated  back:  'The  police,  the  police!  Put  for  the  cars,  Mike, 
and  don't  let  the  grass  grow  under  your  feet  I" 

An  hour  or  so  earlier  a  fray  with  policemen  would  have  been 
balm  to  Mike's  temper.  Now,  exhausted,  deserted  by  all  but  the 
ten,  and  they  without  ammunition,  he  headed  them  back  to  the 
cars  in  double-quick  time.  The  superintendent  was  last  on  board ; 
the  engineer  pulled  open  the  throttle,  and  the  train,  with  gather- 
ing speed,  left  the  town. 

Mike,  standing  on  the  rear  platform,  eagerly  scanned  the 
street,  down  which  he  could  see  for  half  a  mile  in  the  moonlight 
Not  a  policeman  in  sight.    He  scratched  his  head. 

"That  Jack  Lorin's  a  pollytishun,  as  sure  as  Fm  off  the  grane 
isle,"  said  he.  "An*  he  shtood  by  us  like  grim  death  to  a  naygur," 
he  added.    "By  Saint  Pathrick,  I  love  the  b'y  like  me  own !" 

When  at  midnight  Grace  Mordaunt  was  awakened  by  the  puff- 
ing of  the  engine,  she  drew  up  her  shade  and  peered  out.  The 
men  were  streaming  noisily  off  the  train ;  on  their  shoulders  they 
carried  the  superintendent. 

"Hooray  for  Jack  LorinM"  Mike's  powerful  voice  led  the  bel- 
low.   "Hooray  for  the  boss,  hooray !" 

"Here,  boys,"  commanded  Jack,  "put  me  down  or  I'll  light  my 
pipe  at  your  red  heads,  you  idiots,  you !" 

But  his  embarrassment  was  stronger  than  his  authority  now, 
and  the  men  only  laughed,  giving  him  three  times  three  and  a 
tiger  before  they  obeyed.  Once  on  the  ground,  Jack  handed 
Mike  a  parcel,  saying:  "That's  my  Christmas  present  to  Norah, 
Mike — ^the  handsomest  woman  in  camp,  bar  one." 

"Yis,  sorr,  and  thank  you  kindly,"  responded  Mike,  over- 
whelmed. "And  thim  rails'll  be  down  in  time,  sorr,  if  Mike 
and  his  forty  divils  have  to  wurrk  night  fur  a  month  to  put  them 
there!" 

Once  more  the  pass  resounded,  and  then  the  men  dispersed. 
Jack  turning  up  the  cafion  on  a  moonlight  search  for  mistletoe. 
Returning  at  dawn,  he  found  his  lady  where  the  night  before 
she  had  mocked  him. 

"I  have  brought  you  the  men  and  the  mistletoe,"  he  said 
softly,  standing,  hat  in  hand,  by  the  rock. 

Without  looking  up,  she  slid  out  one  slender  hand.  He  touched 
each  dimple  of  pearly  pink  with  his  lips ;  then,  holding  the  mistle- 
toe over  her  head,  drew  her  face  to  his  shoulder,  while  the  Christ- 
mas sun  coming  up  over  mountain  and  shaggy  wood,  drew  out 
the  faint  fresh  odor  that  trees  and  ferns  give  off  to  the  kiss  of 
the  morning. 

Pliottaiz,  Ariiona 


Digitized  by 


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587 


If  we  stopped  oftener  to  remember  that  Life  is  about  all  we 
get  out  of  it,  anyhow,  mebbe  we'd  get  more.  The  trouble  with 
us  is  that  we  never  stop  long  enough  to  remember  much  of  any- 
thing. It  is  characteristic  of  this  country  alone  in  all  the  world. 
It  is  the  explanation  of  our  surpassing  Smartness,  which  is  the 
wonder  (though  not  the  envy)  of  all  other  peoples.  We  are  so 
Smart  that  we  haven't  time  to  Live.  We  have  invented  Ameri- 
can Progress;  whose  chief  characteristic  is  that  it  progresses 
like  sin — and  never  Gets  anywhere. 

Like  any  other  drug-habit,  "Progress"  is  cumulative.  The 
one-grain  dose,  which  was  sufficient  to  stimulate  the  phlegmatic 
nerves  of  twenty  years  ago,  has  been  increased  to  fifty  grains — 
and  now  we  hardly  know  that  we  have  taken  the  stimulant  at 
all.  But,  like  votaries  of  the  other  like  habits,  we  cannot  con- 
ceive of  the  nontoxic  life. 

Now  Progress  is  all  right,  in  its  way.  If  it  really  Gets  Some- 
where, it  is  good ;  but  if  it  is  only  the  endeavor  of  a  horse  lashed 
to  a  gallop  on  the  treadmill  all  day,  only  to  back  out  at  night 
upon  precisely  the  same  floor — ^why  so  much  galloping? 

The  object  of  life  is  to  Live.  To  Live  takes  time.  Time 
means  leisure.  Leisure  means  a  chance  to  do  things  that  you, 
as  a  human  creature,  with  some  little  spark  of  the  Divine  still 
left  in  you,  would  like  to  do  if  the  Other  Fellow  would  let  you. 
The  other  fellow,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  does  not  care  a  Boston  bean 
whether  you  hurry  or  not.  You  hurry  because  you  see  him 
hurry.  He  hurries  because  he  sees  you  hurry — and  the  whole 
procession  is  as  imitative  as  a  flock  of  sheep  jumping  each  his 
own  shadow.  Stop  on  the  street  five  minutes  tomorrow,  any- 
where, and  look  up  at  the  sky ;  and  you  shall  have  a  crowd  simi- 
larly thrusting  up  its  individual  chins.  The  crowd  will  not  know 
why  it  looks  up,  except  that  you  have  looked  up.  The  difference 
between  this  old-time  joke  and  modern  business  is  that  the  wag 
knows  why  he  gets  a  hundred  or  a  thousand  of  his  fellow  citizens 
to  waste  their  time  and  strain  their  cervical  muscles  toward  the 
last  point  of  the  compass  they  are  accustomed  to  look  at. 


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588  OUT    IVBST 

The  typical  American  man  of  business  works  like  a  navvy; 
he  doesn't  know  why,  nor  for  whom;  and  he  gets  swindled  out 
of  his  pay.  There  is  only  one  thing  that  can  pay  a  man  for  spill- 
ing his  life — and  that  is  to  live  as  he  spills.  Mere  money  no 
more  compensates  him  for  committing  twenty-year  suicide  in 
an  office,  than  it  would  compensate  him  for  doing  the  job  in  a 
minute  by  blowing  off  the  roof  of  the  brain  he  misapplies. 

It  would  be  harder  to  define  the  typical  American  woman, 
because  there  are  still  a  vast  number  of  women  relatively  con- 
tented; and  it  is  hard  to  adjudicate  between  them  and  the  more 
obvious  minority,  who  have  tasted  anew  the  Tree  of  Knowledge 
and  some  times  forget  that  too  many  green  apples  cannot  be  di- 
gested at  once. 

All  around,  however,  the  structural  trouble  is  clear.  We  are 
largely  making  the  mistake  of  letting  our  work  ride  us.  Work 
was  meant  to  be  ridden.  It  is  merely  a  means  to  the  universal 
end — which  is  life.  We  were  not  appointed  into  this  world  as 
mere  cogs  of  a  vast  milling  machine,  each  cog  with  no  higher 
privilege  nor  wider  scope  than  to  engage  the  opposite  tooth  of  a 
mechanically  revolving  duty.  We  are  here  to  be  happy  animals. 
To  get  good  out  of  the  air  we  draw  into  full  lungs;  to  rejoice 
in  the  trees  and  flowers  and  birds — ^and  even  in  the  other  feather- 
less  bipeds  that  surround  us  in  our  own  sort — that  a  thoughtful 
Providence  has  placed  in  the  same  circus  with  us.  We  cannot 
be  sane  or  happy  unless  we  help  to  make  other  people  so,  in  the 
direct  ratio  of  their  nearness  to  us.  If  we  fail,  even  as  enlight- 
ened animals,  we  shall  presently  disappear  from  off  the  earth. 
If  we  fail  to  procure  happiness,  we  shall  presently  worry  our- 
selves to  death — and  with  ourselves,  those  dependent  upon  us. 
No  one  can  radiate  that  which  he  does  not  possess.  If  you  are 
not  happy,  you  cannot  make  anyone  else  happy. 

This  is  now  and  here  a  complicated  world.  In  the  older  coun- 
tries, which  better  know  "where  they  are  at,"  the  problem  is 
simpler.  Evolution  will  in  time  simplify  it  here — ^by  its  invari- 
able process  of  killing  off  those  who  cannot  learn  for  themselves 
in  time  to  avoid  the  inexorable  lesson.  If  our  smartness  really 
is  wortli  while,  we  shall  take  the  matter  to  heart  without  waiting 
to  become  extinct.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  is  encouraging  to 
note  the  spread  of  common  sense  among  individuals  who  refuse 
to  be  drowned  in  the  thoughtless  flood.  More  and  more  we  find 
people  taking  their  lives  in  their  own  hands — instead  of  loaning 
them  out  to  the  mob.  But  if  civilization  ever  learns  its  lesson 
anywhere,  it  will  be  in  California — ^whert  Nature  herself  con- 
spires with  us  and  tries  to  teach  us  reason  in  living. 

The  commonest  mistake  in  civilization  is  to  think  that  "all 


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IN  THE  LION'S  DEN  589 

this  has  to  be  done."  In  this  world,  really  nothing  has  to  be 
done,  except  to  live — ^which  includes  being  well  and  happy.  You 
do  not  have  to  make  money.  You  do  not  have  to  go  to  this  place, 
and  to  the  other  place,  when  you  do  not  wish.  You  do  not  have 
to  receive  Tom,  Dick  and  Harry,  when  you  and  they  really  would 
rather  not,  and  consent  only  because  the  fetish  says  so.  You 
do  not  have  to  let  business,  or  pleasure,  or  education,  or  society 
saddle  and  bridle  you  and  put  the  spurs  to  your  flanks.  On  the 
contrary,  these  things  are  all  of  them  meant  to  be  ridden,  and 
to  carry  you  some- whither.  When  you  ride,  you  arrive;  when 
you  are  ridden — ^steed  and  rider  alike  fall  by  the  wayside. 

Efven  in  civilization  there  is  plenty  of  time  to  live.  If  you  wish 
something  done,  go  to  the  busiest  person  you  know.  If  it  is  large 
enough  to  be  worthy  their  doing,  they  will  have  time  to  do  it. 
The  person  who  has  nothing  real  to  do  never  has  time  to  do  any- 
thing. The  people  who  accomplish  most,  always  know  in  fact  the 
meaning  of  leisure — for  they  always  have  time  to  do  at  least  a 
large  share  of  the  things  they  desire  to  do. 

And  ignorance  which  deals  with  anything  several  miles     iqnqeanci 
away  from  us  dies  perhaps  hardest  of  all.    But  its  fate  is  dus 

appointed  beforehand.    The  time  always  comes  in  human  "^"^ 

history  when  it  is  no  longer  convenient  to  be  a  fool  about  the 
given  point. 

The  efforts  of  Senator  Beveridge,  and  a  few  other  Eastern 
politicians,  to  force  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  into  unwilling 
wedlock,  present  probably  the  most  astonishing  case  of  chronic 
ignorance  in  the  political  history  of  this  country.  This  disrepu- 
table movement  is  something  like  the  Irishman's  hen  beflutter- 
ing  the  whole  barnyard,  though  its  head  is  left  behind  on  the 
block — "It's  did,  but  don't  know  enough  to  be  sinsible  av  it."  It 
is  dead  even  though,  through  some  incredible  luck,  its  conspira- 
tors against  history,  justice  and  the  American  spirit  should  suc- 
ceed in  "solemnizing"  the  union — for  the  people  of  the  territories 
would,  at  the  first  opportunity,  break  off  the  unholy  alliance. 

It  seems  incredible  that  even  the  Night-Blooming  Serious  of 
the  Wabash  should  persist  in  this  incomprehensible  idiocy.  It 
is  perhaps  still  more  astonishing  that  any  one  in  either  of  the 
territories  concerned  should  be  so  timorous  or  so  selfish  as  to 
make  common  cause  with  the  enemy.  It  doesn't  pay.  It  doesn't 
pay  either  party.  If  joint  statehood  were  forced  down  the  throats 
of  the  territories,  Mr.  Beveridge  would  be  remembered  in  his- 
tory for  nothing  else  in  the  world  except  as  the  most  ignorant 
senator  ever.  Both  territories  could  better  afford  to  wait  for 
statehood  for  fifty  years  than  to  accept  so  unrighteous  and  so  un- 
intelligent a  compromise. 


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590  OUT    WBST 

In  New  Mexico  for  some  reason— doubtless  the  influence  of 
dominant  politicians — there  seems  less  reluctance  to  this  ab- 
horrent union.  But  in  Arizona  popular  opinion  is  almost  a  unit 
against. 

In  February,  March  and  May,  1903,  this  magazine  printed  the 
fullest  and  the  most  convincing  summary  for  statehood  of  the 
two  territories  independently  that  has  ever  been  printed.  It 
proved  by  American  history,  and  by  the  last  United  States  census, 
the  ignorance  of  the  arguments  which  were  advanced  by  the 
Eastern  politicians  who  had  an  ax  to  grind  on  the  territories. 

New  Mexico  and  Arizona  are  bigger  than  New  York,  Penn- 
sylvania, Ohio,  South  Carolina  and  the  six  New  England  states 
all  in  a  lump.  If  in  the  East  a  man  from  Charleston,  S.  C,  or 
from  Kennebunk,  Maine,  had  to  go  to  Albany,  N.  Y.,  to  get  to 
the  state  capital — why,  the  humor  of  the  proposition  would  ap- 
peal even  to  the  East  And  that  isn't  as  bad  as  it  would  be  if 
New  Mexico  and  Arizona  were  joined  into  one  state. 

In  the  old  Spanish  days,  the  two  territories  were  one  province 
of  Spain.  There  were  few  people ;  and  the  need  of  political  sub- 
division did  not  exist  in  the  wilderness.  But  it  is  more  than  half 
a  century  since  even  our  remote  government  was  forced  into 
having  sense  enough  to  divide  this  vast  area,  because  it  was  far 
too  big  even  for  one  territory.  Rational  people  will  not  need  to 
be  reminded  more  than  once  that  what  is  too  big  for  one  terri- 
tory is  too  big  for  one  state.  Separate  as  they  stand.  New  Mexico 
and  Arizona  would  be  fourth  and  fifth  states  in  the  union  in  size. 
Only  Texas,  California  and  Montana  are  bigger  even  than  Ari- 
zona. 

Out  of  the  forty-five  states  of  the  Union,  twenty  did  not  have 
as  large  a  population  when  they  became  states  as  Arizona  had 
five  years  ago— and  twenty-nine  had  not  at  admission  as  many 
as  New  Mexico  had  five  years  ago.  The  growth,  population  and 
development  in  Arizona  is  far  greater  in  proportion  than  in  most 
of  the  Eastern  states — including  Mr.  Beveridge's  Indiana.  At  the 
last  census  the  per  capita  value  of  total  farm  products  was  higher 
in  Arizona  than  in  Ohio,  was  double  the  New  York,  and  four 
times  the  Massachusetts  figure.  The  increase  in  value  of  farm 
products  and  of  all  farms  in  the  whole  Union  from  1890  to  1900 
was  only  28  and  92  per  cent,  respectively ;  in  Arizona  it  was  160 
per  cent,  and  470  per  cent.,  respectively.  Arizona  has  more  sheep 
than  all  New  England.  There  are  twenty  states  of  the  Union 
that  have  not  as  many  cattle.  In  per  capita  value  of  manu- 
factured products  at  the  last  census  Arizona  is  far  ahead  of  In- 
diana. In  lumber  the  two  territories  have  about  one-third  more 
acreage  than  all  six  of  the  New  England  states  together.    Not 


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IN  THB  UON'S  DBN  591 

one  state  in  the  Union  comes  anywhere  near  Arizona  in  per  cent, 
of  increase  in  population  in  the  decade  from  1890  to  1900— and 
no  state  in  the  E^t  has  half  its  percentage.  Indiana  has  about 
one-sixth  of  its  percentage. 

Kansas,  Ohio,  Illinois,  Mississippi,  Tennessee,  Florida,  Ken- 
tucky, California,  Arkansas,  Oregon,  Vermont,  Georgia,  Rhode 
Island,  Missouri,  Indiana  and  Alabama  had  smaller  populations 
when  they  were  admitted  as  states  than  Arizona  had  in  1900. 

In  the  last  ten  years  up  to  1900,  Arizona  gained  more  people 
than  Kansas  and  Delaware  put  together.  There  are  ten  states 
in  the  Union  whose  actual  gain  in  population  was  not  as  great — 
and  in  the  five  years  since,  Arizona  has  been  going  ahead  faster 
than  any  of  them. 

Arizona  was  even  in  1900  more  densely  populated  than  Illinois 
was  at  its  admission;  about  equal  to  Ohio  at  admission;  about 
twice  as  thickly  populated  as  Oregon  or  California  at  admission. 

Arizona  produces  about  nineteen  millions  a  year  from  mining. 
She  produces  four  and  one-half  times  as  much  wheat  as  Maine. 
The  number  of  her  farms  has  multiplied  by  four  in  ten  years — 
while  in  New  Hampshire  the  total  number  of  new  farms  in  fifty 
years  was  only  ninety-five.  In  the  decade  from  1890  to  1900,  also, 
Arizona  built  545  miles  of  irrigating  canals  and  increased  its 
irrigated  lands  by  120,000  acres — multiplying  their  value  six- 
fold. 

There  is  no  argument  which  any  scholar  of  history  or  statistics 
would  for  a  moment  proffer  in  favor  of  joint  statehood.  The 
only  reason  why  it  is  attempted  to  be  perpetrated  is  selfish  ignor- 
ance on  one  side,  and  selfish  timidity  on  the  other.  But  com- 
mon sense  and  reasonable  courage  are  dominant  everywhere.  All 
the  people  of  Arizona  have  to  do  is  to  stand  fast  on  their  his- 
toric, their  political,  their  treaty,  and  their  American  rights.  They 
can  better  afford  to  wait  a  little  to  get  the  thing  they  want  as 
they  want  it;  and  the  country  cannot  afford  to  violate  the  will 
of  what  will  presently  be  a  sovereign  state. 

Meantime,  to  be  perfectly  frank  with  the  Tenderfoot  Country 
to  which  Westerners  owe  certain  tips  in  return  for  amusement 
rendered,  it  is  only  fair  to  record  that  the  only  parallel  in  Amer- 
ican history  for  Mr.  Beveridge's  suggestion  has  been  made  by  a 
California  newspaper  genius  (imported) — to  split  the  sovereign 
state  of  California  across  its  equatCH*,  join  Southern  California 
with  Arizona,  and  call  the  hybrid  "Calizona.''  The  East  has  no 
monopoly. 

The  February  number  of  this  magazine  will  tell  somewhat  of 
the  real  Arizona. 


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592  OUT    WEST 

WAKENING  More  than  fourteen  years  ago  the  Lion  printed,  in  one 

A  80BEH  of  his  earlier  books  ("Some    Strange    Comers    of    Our 

PATRIOTISM     Country")  a  little  preachment  which  has  since  had  wide 

circulation.    The  text  is  as  true  today  as  ever ;  but  today  there 

are  more  to  preach  it : 

"We  live  in  the  most  wonderful  of  lands;  and  one  of 
the  most  wonderful  things  in  it  is  that  we,  as  Americans, 
find  so  little  to  wonder  at.    Other  civilized  nations  take 
pride  in  knowing  their  points  of  natural  and  historic  in- 
terest; but  when  we  have  pointed  to  our  marvelous 
growth  in  population  and  wealth     ...     we  hasten 
abroad  in  quest  of  sites  not  a  tenth  part  so  wonderful 
as  a  thousand  wonders  we  have  at  home  and  never 
dream  of.     .     .     .     There  is  a  part  of  America  of 
which  Americans  know  as  little  as  thev  do  of  inner 
Africa.     .     .     .     They  call  a  man  a  *  traveler"  who 
has  run  his  superficial  girdle  around  the  world,  and  is 
as  ignorant  of  his  own  country  as  if  he  had  never  been  in 
it.    I  hope  to  see  Americans  proud  of  knowing  America, 
and  ashamed  not  to  know  it. 
In  a  modest  way  this  gospel  has  been  growing  ever  since.    The 
book  still  circulates  more  widely  than  in  its  first  year,  and  has 
been  supplemented  by  many  minor  appeals  to  the  same  patriot- 
ism.   Furthermore,  the  thought  has  been  taken  up  by  more  in- 
fluential expounders;  and  every  year  has  seen  a  larger  number 
of  delighted  converts  who  try  the  experiment,  and  are  very  glad 
they  did.    The  newest  apostle  of  this  good  propaganda  is  the 
Commercial  Club  of  Salt  Lake  City,  a  corporation  whose  motto 
is  "See  Europe  if  you  will,  but  see  America  first" 

This  organization  is  sending  out  circulars  and  other  "litera- 
ture" in  an  organized  effort  to  popularize  travel  in  the  American 
wonderland.  It  appeals  to  business  as  well  as  to  sentimental 
motives.  It  estimates  the  moneys  expended  in  other  countries 
by  American  tourists  in  1904-1905  at  $150,000,000 — mostly  paid 
by  Americans,  "who,  though  native  to  the  United  States,  were 
in  comparative  ignorance  of  the  scenic,  climatic  and  industrial 
advantages  of  that  portion  of  our  country  lying  west  of  the 
Mississippi." 

It  is  admitted  that  the  Old  World  always  will  and  always 
should  draw  thousands  of  American  sightseers ;  but  it  is  believed 
"that  America,  and  particularly  the  Western  portion  thereof,  is 
entitled  from  all  standpoints  to  more  attention  from  a  certain 
class  of  Americans  than  it  has  heretofore  received."  A  confer- 
ence to  be  held  January  i8th  is  called ;  to  include  the  governors 
of  the  states  and  territories  affected,  together  with  representa- 
tives of  the  chief  commercial  organizations  and  railroads  of  the 
West. 

Such  a  conference,  rightly  conducted,  ought  to  have  a  serious 
effect,  not  only  on  the  finances  of  the  West  but  on  the  brains  of 
the  country  at  large.  For  every  dollar  the  tourist  spends  in 
learning  his  own  country,  we  will  give  him  back  $100  worth  in 
the  enlargement  of  his  horizon.  It  is  of  vital  importance  that 
the  two  factors  in  such  a  movement  be  kept  in  their  even  bal- 


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IN  THE  UOtrS  DBN  593 

ancc — that  the  patriotic  feeling  shall  not  degenerate  into  senti- 
mentality (of  which  there  is  no  danger)  and  that  the  commer- 
cial side  shall  not  forget  the  patriotic.  In  any  event,  the  move- 
ment is  a  laudable  one.  If  it  loses  anything  of  its  initial  quality, 
it  will  be  the  fault  of  those  who  fail  to  rally  to  this  conference 
for  the  best  good  not  merely  of  a  section  but  of  the  whole 
country. 

After  ten  years,  or  fifteen,  the  Bancroft  library  has     California's 
found  a  purchaser.    It  has  been  hawked  throughout  this  good 

country  and  the  civilized  world.     For  a  number  of  rea-  fortune 

sons,  more  or  less  notorious  among  scholars,  it  has  failed  to  be 
sold.  But  it  is  an  ill  wind  that  blows  good  to  no  one.  If  the 
East  or  Europe  would  have  bought  this  unprecedented  collec- 
tion, California  could  not.  And  by  all  odds  it  belongs  in  Cali- 
fornia. It  is  in  several  respects  the  most  wonderful  collection 
of  Californiana  ever  made.  In  other  parallel  lines  of  Americana 
it  is  probably  surpassed  by  the  Carter-Brown,  the  Lenox  and  the 
Ayer  libraries;  but  whatever  "facilities"  these  three  greatest  li- 
braries of  Americana  possess,  the  Bancroft  surpasses  them  all 
in  manuscripts  pertaining  to  California. 

The  Bancroft  history  found  its  adjudication  in  science  a 
good  while  ago— most  authoritatively  first  in  Justin  Winsor's 
great  "Narrative  and  Critical  History  of  America."  In  popular 
estimation,  by  some  curious  and  uncommon  humor  of  Provi- 
dence, it  has  also  had  its  day.  Projected  on  the  plan  of  a  "drum- 
mer" in  letters,  these  forty  volumes  (published  at  $4  per)  can  be 
readily  bought  almost  anywhere  in  the  West  at  75  cents  a  vol- 
ume in  full  sheep.  It  is  the  most  extraordinary  gathering  of  data 
ever  made  for  any  portion  of  North  America — ^and  the  most  un- 
digested. To  the  student,  who  knows  where  to  apply  the  salt,  it 
is  valuable.  To  the  ordinary  searcher  for  historic  fact,  it  is  as 
near  worthless  as  so  colossal  an  aggregation  of  facts  can  be. 
Probably  no  one  has  ever  tried  to  use  this  history  without  a 
pious  wish  that  the  Inquisition  might  come  along  and  boil  in 
cold  oil  the  person  who  issued  forty  huge  volumes  without  an 
index  fit  to  be  called  so  even  in  a  kindergarten. 

Something  of  the  same  characteristics  which  distinguish  the 
Bancroft  volumes  fall  to  the  library  from  which  they  have  been 
undigested.  The  use  of  irresponsible  writers,  the  lack  of  evalua- 
tion, and  the  notorious  complaints  of  individuals  that  they  have 
been  robbed  of  their  personal  documents  under  guise  of  a  loan — 
these  have  militated  against  the  sale  of  the  Bancroft  library  to 
the  institutions  which  have  been  urged  to  secure  it. 

But  in  a  case  like  this,  we  can  afford  to  let  by-gones  be  by- 
gones. This  collection  belongs  in  California.  It  is  fortunate 
that  Eastern  libraries  did  not  secure  it,  and  that  the  owner  has 
"donated"  to  this  state  the  amount  that  no  one  else  would  pay. 
California  is  going  to  be  sometime  headquarters  for  the  students 
of  early  America.  Such  a  nucleus  of  their  working  tools  is  ab- 
solutely indispensable.  The  State  University  has  never  done, 
probably,  so  important  a  thing  before  for  future  scholarship,  as 
in  securing  this  collection.  There  will  need  to  be  the  most 
scrupulous  and  the  most  competent  scrutiny  and  evaluation; 


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594  OUT    WEST 

but  when  all  is  said  and  done,  the  State  University  of  California 
has  secured  a  more  valuable  library  touching  its  own  common- 
wealth than  any  other  state  in  the  Union  possesses. 

California  is  rather  a  long  state,  however,  and  all  the  people 
— even  all  the  scholars — ^who  are  going  to  live  in  California,  can- 
not live  in  Berkeley.  Five  hundred  miles  south  there  is  room 
and  equal  need  for  another  library  for  scholars.  And  the  Los 
Angeles  Public  Library  is  going  to  try  to  supply  that  need  and 
meet  that  obligation. 

BRAINS  No  man  can  go  down  to  the  sea,  thrust  his  head  in, 

AND  withdraw  it  and  observe  the  cavity.     "There  ain't  no 

SEAWATER  cavity."  Nothing  in  this  world  is  indispensable.  It  is 
always  hard  for  us  to  think  so — but  evidently  it  is  no  trouble 
to  God  to  know  so.  It  is  owing  solely  to  this  superior  far-sight 
of  Him  that  the  world  has  persisted  at  all.  If  all  the  billions  that 
have  perished  had  been  a  billionth  part  so  necessary  as  they  felt 
they  were  in  the  scheme  of  creation,  the  whole  thing  would  have 
long  ago  been  sapped,  undermined  and  collapsed. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  are  some  people,  and  some  things, 
whom  it  is  very  convenient  not  to  have  to  get  along  without 
The  universe  would  plod  steadily  ahead  if  they  were  expunged — 
having  come  securely  into  the  habit.  But  you  and  I  could  name 
several  people  whose  obliteration  would  seriously  and  perma- 
nently discommode  us. 

Every  community  has  likewise  men  whose  places  would  be  a 
long  time  in  filling. 

Nothing  better  ever  happened  to  any  man  than  the  finite  feel- 
ing of  his  community  that  he  is  indispensable.  Posthumous 
fame  may  tickle  posterity  longer ;  but  it  is  no  good  to  the  dead. 

To  a  community  which  has  many  right  men  in  the  right  place, 
it  is  good  to  welcome  back  one  of  the  least  dispensable.  I  have 
known  many  men  in  the  West,  and  have  by  accident  found  most 
of  the  scholars;  but  I  have  never  known  a  truer  man  or  a 
riper  scholar  or  a  better  citizen  in  all  the  West  than  Dr.  C.  J. 
K.  Jones,  who  returns  to  Los  Angeles  to  put  his  profound  eru- 
dition at  the  service  of  the  Los  Angeles  Public  Library.  The  city 
needs  such  men,  such  citizens,  such  students. 

Chas.  F.  Lummis. 


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S9S 
THe  SOUTHWEST  SOaiTY 

Archaeological  Institute  of  America. 

PftUUait  J.  O.KoBFFU. 
PrMldeat  Saieritnt,  J.  8.  SlanMm. 
Tic^PfMld«ats:  G«a.  Harrlaoa  Oray  Otis,  Sditor  I«m  AttCtttos  TiaiM;  G«k  F.  BoTard. 

PrMt.  U.  •!  8.  C.;  Dr.  Nonnaa  Brtdca;  Heanr  W.  O'MelTeay. 

lacraUfy,Chaa.  V.  I««miBla.  SxaeatiTe  CoaunlttM,  Major  B.  W.  Joaoa, 

_  Miaa  Mary  B.  Poy,  Prof.  J.  ▲.  Foahay, 

Traaaarer.  W.  C  Pattaraoa,  Tlca-Prcst.  Ut  Sapt.  City  Schools,  I«oa  Aacatea;   Chas. 

Natioaal  Baak  of  I<oa  Aacalaa.  J.  Laaimis,  Dr.  r.M.ramer,  Theodora 

B.  Comstock,  Dr.  J.  H.  Martiadale,  Mrs. 
Kaoordar  aad  Caraior,  Dr.  F.  M.  PalBMr.  W.  H.  Hoash,  Joseph  Scott,  Wm.  H. 

Baraham,  C.  J.  K.  Joaea. 
ADTxaoKT  coiwczl: 
TIm  forsffoiatf  olitcara  aad 
Iioaia  A.  Drayfaa,  Saata  Bartara.  Dr.  J.  H.  McBrlde,  Pasadeaa. 

Chaa.  Caasatt  Darla,  I«oa  Aagalea.  Gaow  W.  BCaratoa,  8aa  Dieffo. 

Charlea  Aautdoa  Moody,  I«oa  Aacalea.  Joha  O.  North,  RiTarsida. 

Walter  R.  Bacoa,  I«oa  Aacalea. 
^HoMOKAKT  LiFB  MsMBUta :  HoB.  Thoodora  Rooaeralt,  Washiactoa ;   Chas.  Bliot 
Nortoa,  LL.  D.,  Caaibridffa,  Mass. 

Iflf^  Members:  Prof.  C.  C.  Brafdoa.  Bar.  Jaaa  Caballaria,  Chaa.  Deeriair,  Mrs.  Bra  S. 
P4ayaa.  Miaa  MIra  Harahay,  MiJor  B.  W.  Joaea,  HoaMr  lAatfhlia,  I«oa  Aacales  State 
NorauU  School,  B.  P.  Ripl^,  St.  Yiaceat*s  College,  Saata  Clara  College,  Janes  Slaasoa, 
O.  S.  A.  Spracae,  J.  DowiMy  Harray,  Joha  A.  McCall,  Mra.  Bleaaor  Martia,  Bdwia  T. 
Barl,  Wai.  Keith,  Mra.  Heary  WUsoa  Hart,  W.  P.  Weaselhoeft,  M.  D.,  Dwicht  Whitiar, 
Mies  A.  Ajuella  Smead,  I«oa  Aacales  Coaacll  621,  Kai^hta  of  Colambas,  Gerhard  Bshoiaa, 
J.  S.  Slaasoa,  Roae  I«.  Barcham,  A.  6.  Habbard,  Hoa.  Reamer  Liac,  Jeremiah  Ahera. 

■BPKBtBMTATnraS  Dl  TBS  COUITCXI.  OP  TBS  A.  I.  A. 

Theo.  B.  CoflMtock  P.  M.  Palmer  Mary  B.  Pay 

Chas.  P.  Lammis  C  B.  Ramsey  Rt.  Rot.  T.  J.  Coaaty 

J.  Q.  KoepHi,  ez-oAcio  Mra.  W.  H.  Hoash  Rt.  Rer.  J.  H.  Johasoa 

*By  their  coaaeat,  aad  sabscribsd  by  the  Soathwaat  Society. 


The  Story  of  the  two-year-old  Southwest  Society — "baby  of  the 
family"  of  the  venerable  Archaeological  Institute  of  America — 
reads  in  science  almost  like  a  fairy  tale.  To  those  who  anywhere 
have  labored  for  the  higher  scholarship — ^whether  for  pure  love 
of  learning  or  for  public  spirit — ^the  literal  achievement  of  this 
young  scientific  body,  on  the  very  verge  and  hem  of  the  Farthest 
West,  sounds  too  good  to  be  true.  It  has  had  no  precedent  nor 
parallel  in  this  country  or  abroad.  No  other  organization  for  the 
advancement  of  critical  knowledge  has  ever,  so  far  as  can  be  dis- 
covered, grown  so  fast  in  membership  at  so  high  dues,  nor  done 
so  much  for  its  community  in  so  brief  an  infancy. 

The  Southwest  Society  was  two  years  old  November  30,  1905. 
Early  in  its  twenty-third  month,  when  these  lines  are  written, 
the  membership  was  374.  This  in  itself  was  much  more  than  one- 
fifth  of  the  total  membership  of  the  26-year-old  Dean  of  Amer- 
ican scientific  bodies,  with  its  fifteen  affiliations,  including  the 
foremost  universities  in  America.  It  was  at  least  100  in  ad- 
vance of  any  other  society  in  the  Institute,  including  the  vener- 
able New  York  and  Boston  societies.  It  was  more  than  twice 
as  much  as  any  other  society  except  these  two.  And  the  South- 
west Society  is  only  beginning.  Since  March  i,  1905,  it  has 
more  than  doubled  its  membership,  which  at  that  date  was  160. 

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5%  OUT    WEST 

Other  things  have  been  in  keeping.  It  has  done  in  its  two 
years  more  original  work  as  a  society  than  has  been  done  by  all 
the  other  societies  put  together  in  the  sanae  time.  This  work 
has  been  to  the  promotion  of  scholarship  the  world  over,  and  at 
the  same  time  of  special  value  to  this  community. 

The  society  has  secured — some  by  purchase  with  special  funds, 
and  some  by  pledge,  and  some  by  field  work — no  less  than  six 
collections  of  priceless  value  to  this  region.  It  already  con- 
trols such  an  archaeological  collection  of  locality  as  does  not 
exist  in  or  for  any  other  portion  of  the  United  States.  It  has 
secured  historical  collections  of  extraordinary  value  and  inter- 
est. And  it  is  constantly  receiving  new  pledges  of  valuable 
material  for  such  a  museum  as  is  not  yet  anywhere  in  the  Far 
West. 

It  has  made  a  collection  of  folk-songs  of  its  own  field  which 
has  no  parallel  elsewhere — in  twenty-five  different  languages, 
and  of  an  almost  infinite  variety  of  theme  and  treatment  Three 
hundred  of  the  old  Spanish  songs  of  the  Southwest  have  been 
recorded  viva  voce,  translated  and  transliterated;  they  now 
await  only  their  translation  to  be  ready  for  the  publisher. 

The  Society  has  conducted  highly  successful  field  expedi- 
tions in  Southern  California  and  Arizona. 

It  has  secured  (perhaps  most  important  of  all)  a  concession 
long  denied  to  Harvard  College  and  all  the  other  universities 
and  museums  of  the  East — the  right  to  explore  and  to  excavate 
on  the  Indian  Reservations  and  Forest  Reserves  of  the  South- 
west; and  has  been  granted  an  official  status  with  the  scientific 
bureaus  of  the  government. 

The  secret  of  this  success  has  been  simple.  The  Southwest 
Society  has  mixed  business  methods  with  its  science.  It  up- 
holds the  highest  standards  of  scholarship,  but  applies  to  them 
the  common-sense  and  energy  which  have  become  so  essential 
in  other  walks  of  life.  It  pursues  science  not  as  an  academic  and 
selfish  dream,  but  as  a  real  and  vital  part  of  the  life  of  the  com- 
munity, worthy  to  be  given  as  much  attention  and  intention  as 
the  making  of  money  receives. 

The  foundation  is  now  laid,  and  the  society  is  ready  to  begin 
the  visible  superstructure — the  tangible  realization  to  which  even 
scholarship  should  come.  It  is  engaged  to  build  a  great  museum 
for  the  permanent  preservation  of  the  archaeology,  the  history, 
and  the  art  of  its  community ;  to  make  that  museum  architectur- 
ally a  monument  second  to  none  in  the  United  States.  It  is  as- 
sured of  success — ^and  on  an  even  larger  scale  than  its  surprising 
successive  triumphs  thus  far. 


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THE  SOUTHWEST  SOCIETY,  A.  I.  A. 


597 


The  second  annual  meeting  was  held  November  25,  at  the 
home  of  the  secretary ;  Gen.  Harrison  Gray  Otis,  first  vice-presi- 
dent, in  the  chair.  Reports  were  made  by  the  treasurer,  secretary 
and  curator,  and  by  Mrs.  W.  H.  Housh,  president  of  the  Fine 
Arts  Building  Association. 

Mr.  J.  S.  Slauson,  the  first  president  of  the  society,  was  unani- 
mously elected  President  Emeritus;  and  a  message  of  love  and 
sympathy  in  his  sickness  was  sent  him  by  the  meeting.  J.  O. 
Koepfli  was  unanimously  elected  president  of  the  society  for  the 
coming  year,  and  Henry  W.  O'Melveny,  vice-president.  The 
other  officers  were  all  re-elected. 

Examples  of  the  collections  made  by  the  society  in  its  Redondo 
and  Arizona  expeditions  were  on  exhibition. 

Since  tht  November  number  the  following  new  members  have  been  added : 
Life  members: — 


Jeremiah   Ahem,   U.    S.    Geological 

Survey,  Cody,  Wyo. 
Hon.  Reamer  Ling,  St.  Johns,  Wyo. 
J.  S.  Slauson,  Los  Angeles. 
A.  G.  Hubbard,  Redlands. 
Mrs.  Rose  L.  Burcham,  Los  Angeles. 
Knights  of  Columbus,  Los  Angeles 

Council  No.  621. 

Annual  members: — 
Johnstone  Jones,  Esq. 
Mrs.  W.  K  Dunn. 

C.  Matthews. 
C  Ganahl. 

Dr.  Alice  B.  Brill. 
W.  B.  Clinc. 
Geo.  K  Bittinger. 
Kate  S.  Vosburg. 
A.  Willhartitz. 
Hon.  John  D.  Works. 
Prof.  Geo.  L.  Leslie. 
Hon.  Walter  J.  Trask. 
Wm.  Lacy. 

D.  K.  Edwards. 
M.  H.  Newmark. 
Marshall  Stimson. 
Don  Romulo  Pico. 
J.  R.  Newberry. 
Leo  J.  Maguire. 


Mrs.  Eva  G.  Bussenius. 
Herman  H.  Kerckhoff. 
Dr.  L.  G.  Visscher. 
J.  R.  Smurr. 

All  of  Los  Angeles. 
Dr.  James  Douglas,  Prest  El  Paso  & 

Southwestern  R.  R.,  New  York. 
Gen.  Wm.  J.    Palmer,    Prest    Rio 

Grande  Western  R.  R.,  Colorado 

Springs,  Colo. 
Miss  G.  W.  Littlejohn,  Berkeley,  Cal. 
Dr.  Geo.  A  Dorsey,  Curator  Field 

Museum,  Chicago. 
Miss  Ruth  Wolfskin,  Redondo,  Cal. 
Miss  Augusta  Senter,  Pasadena. 
Dr.  L.  A  Wright,  San  Jacinto,  Cal. 
Dr.  Nicolas  Leon,  Museo  Nacional, 

City  of  Mexico. 
Dr.  Fitch  K  C  Mattison,  Pasadena. 
Benj.  Blossom,  844  5th  Ave.,  New 

York. 
Hon.  Walter  Van    Dyke,    Supreme 

Court  of  California. 
Dr.  H.  Kinner,  St.  Loui& 
Edward  H.  Davis,  Mesa  Grande,  Cal. 
Prof.  Wm.  H.  Holmes,  Chief  Bureau 

of  Ethnology,  Washington,  D.   C. 
Geo.  H.  Maxwell,  New  York. 


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598 


Redwoods  of  California, 

MATiOMAI,  BXaCUTITB  COimrmn.  tOS  AIIOBtM  < 

D«Yld  8«MV  Jofdu.  Fiwldwt  Slufevd  Ualvinitjr  PMST..  Rt  lUr.  J.  H.  lahaMS 

Cm.  Bird  GiIbmU.  Bd.  •*Fomt  Md  Sciwa.**  IT  Y.  BxacuTlTB  COMMims 

C  HartMcRUm.ChtarBlolofkalSaffTn.WMlitaclM  Kin  Com  For 

D.  M.  RIenlMi.  Loa  Aj^raUs  Mtat  Mmt  B.  Wi 

lUchndEffM^Caplttnao.ai.  ICinKMMMl._ 

CkM.  F.  Lammls,  dMlrawa  Ckw.  F.  Lamala,  C 

ADTMOKT  BOABB. 

Dr.  T.  MldMU  PraddM,  Col.  PhfB.  Md  ■i^r'M,  N.  Y 
•Dr.  G«».  J.  Ffilai— I  Bm>i. 
Kin  AUeo  CFMclHr.  Wadriactoa. 
^toaiirtlo«.l 


Ma.  F.  N.  Dedbladnr.  N«v  York. 
Dr.Wai"  --   *■         -^    - 


(LKriiidlov.  (MflhoiA).  luaudo.  Col 
0  TiBM.  WoiMoHiio 


Uam  MBMBSBS. 
AaoUft  B.  HoUoiaMck.  JooopklM  W.  Dnsol.  Tkoo.  ScottMgoed.  Kin  lUm  Hontey.  Mio.  D.  A.  Soalor.  Horiiort  S. 
Hnirtlutoa,  Iflso  AbIoIboMo  B.  Ganoa.  J.  M.  C.  Masbto,  Joiopk  Fola.  Mio.  karj  Folo.  Honor  LaagidlB.  Mis. 

^nrt  HE  work  of  the  Sequoya  League  goes  ahead  steadily,  and 
^^  the  public  response  does  not  lag.  The  most  vital  and 
important  auxiliary  to  this  work  for  justice  and  a  square 
deal  has  been  pledged.  The  Woman's  Parliament  of  Southern 
California — a  numerous  and  thoroughly  organized  body  of  thou- 
sands of  intelligent  women — has  adopted  for  the  coming  year's 
program  an  active  co-operation  with  the  League  for  Indian  re- 
lief, and  has  created  a  regular  department  for  this  purpose.  Mrs. 
Arthur  Bandini  is  chairman  of  this  committee,  which  will  work 
intelligently  and  zealously,  not  only  to  relieve  the  temporary 
needs  of  these  ill-treated  people,  but  also  to  take  up  actively  a 
campaign  for  adequate  legislation  to  establish  a  permanent  rem- 
edy for  the  distress  which  has  been  notorious  for  more  than 
thirty  years.  Mrs.  J.  D.  Gibbs,  president  of  the  Parliament,  is 
heartily  in  sympathy  with  the  cause ;  and  Mrs.  Bandini  will  un- 
questionably make  her  department  count  seriously  for  humanity. 

Contributions  to  thb  Wokk. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $1401.00. 

Homer  Laughlin,  Los  Angeles,  $50.00  (life  membership);  Mrs.  A.  R. 
Gazzam,  Comwall-on-Hudson,  N.  Y.,  $50.00  (life  membership). 

$2.00  Each  (membership)— Mrs.  N.  D.  Gleason,  Mrs.  J.  H.  Martindale, 
Mrs.  Wm.  S.  Derby,  W.  W.  Neucr,  C.  J.  R.  Carson,  Jas.  K  Montgomery, 
"A  Friend,"  Los  Angeles;  '*Low  I  D  Qass,"  Phi  Alph  Sigma  Sorority,  Lowell 
High  School,  San  Francisco;  Dr.  L.  A.  Wright,  San  Jacinto,  Cal.;  D.  M. 
Riordan,  New  York  City;  W.  D.  Br^hy,  Bisbee,  Ariz.;  Mrs.  Wm.  P.  Nelson, 
Chicago;  Dr.  J.  W.  Trueworthy,  Prest.  Board  of  Library  Directors,  Los 
Angeles;;  "Low  3  A  Class,"  Lowell  High  School,  San  Francisco. 

Indian  Rkubp  Fund. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $1,326.00. 

A  Friend,  New  York,  $8.00;  Mrs.  Wm.  P.  Nelson,  Chicago,  $10.00;  W.  W. 
Neuer,  Los  Angeles,  $8.oa 


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599 


FOUITDSD  1895                          OFFICBJlt  DISBCTOmt 

President,  Chat.  T,  I«nmaii8.  J.  6.  MoMiu. 

Ylce-Pretideiit«  Margaret  Collier  Graham.  Henry  W.  O'MelTeay. 

Secretary,  Arthur  B.  Benton,  114  N.  Sprinc  St.  Snmner  P.  Hant. 

Treasurer.  J.  G.  Mossln,  California  Bank.  Arthnr  B.  Benton. 

Correspoadinff  Secretary,  Mrs.  M.  B.  StUson,  Margaret  Collier  Graham. 

tl3  Kensington  Road.  Chas.  F.  Lnmmls. 
Chairman  Membership  Committee,  Mrs.  J.  G.  Mossln,  1033Santee  St. 


^tft  HE  campaign  to  preserve  the  old  California  place-names — 
^j^  and  to  restore  those  that  have  been  boggled — progresses 
splendidly.  The  War  Department  (through  the  direct 
action  of  Secretary  Taft)  was  first  to  set  a  precedent  at  the 
Landmarks  Club's  request;  and  recently  the  Postoffice  Depart- 
ment has  restored  the  names  of  eighteen  California  towns,  which 
had  been  misspelled  by  distant  clerks. 

During  the  past  month  a  similar  triumph  has  been  won  in  the 
case  of  an  important  Southern  California  community.  Through 
the  efforts  of  Hon.  Zoeth  S.  Eldridge,  State  Bank  Examiner,  and 
the  Club,  the  Postoffice  Department  has  consented  to  restore  the 
historic  name  of  San  Juan  Capistrano,  which  has  for  years  been 
bobtailed  to  "Capistrano."  At  the  same  time.  President  Ripley, 
of  the  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  and  Mr.  Arthur  G.  Wells,  General 
Manager  of  the  Coast  Lines,  have  agreed  to  the  Landmarks 
Club's  petition  and  have-  restored  the  old  name  to  the  station. 
The  San  Juan  part  has  been,  for  some  years,  carried  three  or  four 
miles  down  to  the  beach  for  a  little  station  there.  With  be- 
coming fitness,  this  station  is  henceforth  to  be  known  as  Serra — 
after  the  great  apostle  of  California,  who  founded  the  mission 
at  San  Juan  Capistrano. 

G)NTBIBUnONS  TO  TBI  WORK. 

Already  acknowledged,  $8220.00. 

New  contributions — Mrs.  Ida  Hancock.  Los  Angeles,  $25.00  (life  member- 
ship). 
$1.00  Each — Malcolm  Macleod,  Mrs.  Anna  S.  Averill,  Los  Angeles. 


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600 


gift-book  does  not  bring  pleasure.  For  even  among  the  hundred  and 
twenty-five  volumes  now  on  my  review  shelves — and  these  are  but  a 
small  fraction  of  recent  publications—there  is  a  sufficient  variety  to  suit 
every  taste,  from  the  crudest  to  the  most  cultivated.  Moreover,  of  the 
whole  lot,  good  bad  and  indifferent,  there  is  hardly  one  which  would  not 
"just  suit"  some  particular  person  of  my  acquaintance.  It  is  impossible  to 
mention,  even  briefly,  all,  or  a  majority,  of  these  in  the  space  available  this 
month,  and  in  my  rather  arbitrary  selection  I  have  been  guided  more  by  a  de- 
sire to  cover  a  wide  range  than  by  a  wish  to  indicate  personal  preference. 

Probably  the  one  novel  which  it  would  be  safest  to  select  for  a  discriminat- 
ing reader  is  Edith  Wharton's  The  House  of  Mirth  (Scribner;  $1.50),  in 
which  this  brilliant  and  subtle  writer  is  at  her  very  best.  If  this  novel  in 
the  final  sifting  fails  to  hold  a  place  among  the  masterpieces,  it  will  be  only 
because  it  deals  deliberately  with  the  froth  of  life— with  the  "idle  rich"  and 
their  hangers-on.  There  is  barely  a  suggestion  of  the  sort  of  achievement 
which  alone  gives  any  meaning  to  life.  None  sees  more  clearly  nor  points 
out  more  plainly  than  Mrs.  Wharton  that  the  "House  of  Mirth"  is  a  house 
where  no  true  joy  is  to  be  found,  yet  there  is  nothing  like  "sermonizing" — 
just  a  fascinating  and  convincing  picture  of  life. 

At  quite  the  other  extreme  is  such  a  book  as  Samuel  Merwin's  The  Road- 
Builders  (Macmillan;  $1.50),  which  is  concerned  with  nothing  but  achieve- 
ment— in  this  case  the  pushing  of  a  railroad  line  through  a  desert  in  the 
Southwest  against  the  opposition  of  an  unscrupulous  competitor.  It  is  not 
only  a  good  story,  but  better  history  than  some  that  claim  the  latter  title. 
For  further  variety  in  novels,  one  may  turn  to  The  House  of  Cards,  by  "John 
Heigh"  (Macmillan;  $1.50),  which  is  a  study  of  finance  and  politics  as  seen 
in  Philadelphia— and  is  worth  the  reading  of  any  thoughtful  man;  to  The 
Ballingtons,  by  Frances  Squire  (Little,  Brown  &  Co.;  $1*50),  in  which  "the 
main  interest  centers  in  the  spiritual  awakening  of  Agnes  Ballington,  her 
struggle  for  the  rights  of  the  soul,  and  the  steady  involvement  of  other 
homes  and  individuals;"  to  S.  R.  Crockett's  The  Cherry  Ribband  (Barnes; 
$1.50),  in  which  Mr.  Crockett,  if  not  quite  at  his  best,  is  very  far  from  be- 
ing at  his  worst;  and  to  My  Friend  the  Chauffeur  (McClure;  $1.50),  in  which 
the  Williamsons  continue  to  work  the  profitable  vein  of  automobile  touring 
in  Southern  Europe,  pretty  girl,  and  nobleman  in  disguise. 

Your  friend  prefers  short  stories?  Well,  here  are  half  a  dozen  from  Cal- 
ifornia, by  Margaret  Collier  Graham,  published  under  the  title.  The  Wisard's 
Daughter  (Houghton-Mifflin;  $1.25)— and  every  one  of  them  is  a  gem.  Or 
The  Deep  Sea's  Toll  (Scribner;  $1.50)  has  more  than  that  number  of  Con- 
nolly's  stirring  deep-water  tales.  Captains  All,  by  W.  W.  Jacobs  (Scribner; 
$1.50),  shows,  in  broad  burlesque,  the  English  sailor  at  home — and  many 
readers  find  Mr.  Jacobs*  humor  highly  amusing.    For  myself,  a  little  of  him 


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THAT  WHICH  IS  WRITTEN  601 

goes  a  long  way.  The  Mountain  of  Fears,  by  Henry  C.  Rowland  (Barnes; 
$1.50),  will  fascinate  any  lover  of  the  fantastic  and  outre,  particularly  if  he 
does  not  object  to  several  shudders  in  each  story.  In  A  Thief  in  the  Night 
(Scribner;  $1.50)  we  have  a  third  installment  of  the  adventures  of  Raffles, 
the  Amateur  Cracksman;  while  most  of  the  stories  in  McAllister  and  His 
Double,  by  Arthur  Train  (Scribner;  $1.50)  deal  with  the  complications 
caused  by  the  startling  resemblance  between  a  New  York  clubman  and  his 
quondam  valet,  a  scallawag  of  parts. 

Fiction  is  all  very  well  in  its  way,  but  most  persons  who  are  really  grown 
up  would  feel  more  complimented  in  the  receipt  of  gift-books,  if  given  credit 
for  more  serious  tastes.  Such  a  book,  for  instance,  as  Old  France  in  the  New 
World,  by  Dr.  James  Douglas  (Burrows  Brothers),  would  be  a  welcome  ad- 
dition to  the  library  of  anyone  who  deserves  to  have  a  library  at  all  This 
study  of  Quebec  in  the  seventeenth  century  is  a  genuine  addition  to  our  his- 
torical literature.  Real  scholarship  and  a  most  happy  style  are  rarely  found 
better  blended  than  in  this  volume.  The  illustrations,  mostly  from  old 
prints,  maps  and  portraits,  are  of  exceptional  significance  and  value;  the 
Index  is  thoroughly  useful;  and  the  publishers  have  so  done  their  duty  as 
to  make  the  volume  a  delight  to  eye  and  hand.  For  the  benefit  of  those  who 
think  that  scholarship  handicaps  a  business  man,  it  may  just  be  mentioned 
that  Dr.  Douglas  is  at  the  head  of  great  mining,  smelting  and  railroad  enter- 
prises. 

Theodore  Roosevelt's  Outdoor  Pastimes  of  an  American  Hunter  (Scribner; 
$3.,  net),  is  another  book  which  most  readers  would  prefer  to  any  novel. 
The  crisp,  direct  narrative  of  our  outdoor  President  needs  no  comment  from 
me.  The  illustrations  are  all  good  and  some  of  them  notable.  The  volume 
is  dedicated  affectionately  to  "Oom  John"  Burroughs,  who  was  with  the 
President  on  one  of  the  trips  described.  With  it  might  very  well  go  "Oom 
John's"  own  latest  book,  Ways  of  Nature  (Houghton-Mifflin;  $1.10,  net)-- 
a  series  of  essays,  rather  more  argumentative  than  usual,  but  quite  as  charm- 
ing as  usual.  Two  Bird-Lovers  in  Mexico,  by  C.  William  Beebe,  Curator  of 
Ornithology  in  the  New  York  Zoological  Park  (Houghton-Mifflin;  $3,  net), 
is  a  delightful  record  of  a  delightful  trip.  The  Butterflies  of  the  Westi 
Coast  (Whitaker  &  Ray  (3o.,  San  Francisco;  $4,  net)  is  a  scholarly  and  care- 
ful treatment  of  its  subject,  and  as  complete  as  twenty-five  years  of  patient 
work  could  make  it.  It  is  illustrated  with  940  figures  in  color-photography  of 
West  Cx>ast  Butterflies,  most  of  which  were  captured  by  the  author,  William 
Greenwood  Wright,  of  San  Bernardino,  Cal. 

Of  works  of  travel,  by  far  the  most  entertaining  under  my  hand  is  A 
Levantine  Log-Book  (Longmans;  $2,  net).  This  is  by  Jerome  Hart,  editor 
of  the  Argonaut,  who  declares:  "I  believe  in  telling  the  truth  about  travel. 
It  may  not  much  matter  what  a  traveller  thinks,  but  it  does  matter  that  he 
should,  if  he  tells  it,  tell  it  truthfully.  Most  travellers  rave  to  order."  Mr. 
Hart  assuredly  does  no  raving;  and  the  truth  as  he  sees  it  is  usually  dashed 
with  a  touch  of  cynical  wit  in  the  telling  that  does  not  easily  become  tire- 
some. No  less  truthful,  though  more  sympathetic,  is  Miss  Betham-Ed wards' 
Home  Life  in  France  (McClure;  $2.50,  net).  This  is  no  record  of  a  tra- 
veller's casual  observations,  but  the  outcome  of  a  long  and  intimate  ac- 
quaintance, and  is,  I  believe,  the  most  complete  and  just  study  of  French 
family  and  school  life  available  to  the  English  reader. 

Of  special  "holiday  editions"  of  old  favorites,  I  find  only  five  on  my  shelves. 
Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co.  send  two  of  these — Bret  Harte's  Her  Letter,  with  its 
two  companion  poems,  "pictured"  by  Arthur  I.  Keller  ($2),  and  The  One 
Hoss  Shay,  illustrated  in  color  by  Howard   Pylc   ($1.50) — each  an   cxcep- 

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tionally  fine  piece  of  work.  Henry  Van  Dyke's  delightful  Fisherman's  Luck 
appears  in  a  new  edition,  from  new  plates,  with  illustrations  in  tint  (Scrib- 
ner;  $1.50).  Little,  Brown  &  G).  present  the  "Pasadena  Edition"  of  Helen 
Hunt  Jackson's  classic  of  Southern  California,  Ramona  ($2).  While  for 
those  who  want  Dickens's  Christmas  Carol  trimmed  to  the  shape  of  a  bell, 
adorned  with  holly  and  red  ribbon  and  packed  in  a  holly-decorated  box, 
H.  M.  Caldwell  &  Co.  have  provided  it  ($1.50). 

The  books  so  far  mentioned  were  prepared  mainly  for  the  elders,  though 
youngsters  will  find  plenty  of  good  meat  and  juicy  in  many  of  them.  But  if 
any  day  of  them  all  belongs  particularly  to  the  children,  Christmas  is  that 
day,  and  suggestions  for  Qiristmas  buying  that  did  not  specially  look  after 
the  lads  and  lassies  would  be  sadly  short-sighted.  The  first  "juvenile"  to 
catch  my  attention  is  one  which  brought  an  exclamation  of  delight  and  an 
"Oh,  I  must  read  thatl"  from  a  little  girl  of  some  thirty-odd  when  her  eyes 
fell  upon  it— Frances  Hodgson  Burnett's  A  Little  Princess  (Scribner;  ^). 
This  contains  the  full  story  of  "Sara  Crewe,"  as  it  developed  while  drama- 
tizing the  story  about  her— and  a  sweet  story  it  is,  while  the  book  is  "just 
lovely."  Next  I  find  The  Story  of  the  Champions  of  the  Round  Table,  writ- 
ten and  illustrated  by  Howard  Pyle  (Scribner;  $2.50,  net)—ai  prize  indeed 
for  any  boy  who  gets  it.  Next  after  these — I  am  not  attempting  to  pass  on 
the  order  of  merit,  but  naming  them  as  they  come  to  my  hand —  is  Told  by 
Uncle  Remus,  being  new  stories  of  the  old  plantation,  by  Joel  Chandler  Har- 
ris (McClure;  $2).  Brer  Rabbit  and  his  companions  are  no  less  entertaining 
in  the  new  stories  than  they  were  in  the  old— and  that  is  the  highest  praise. 

Then,  continuing  among  the  "animal  stories,"  there  is  W.  A.  Eraser's 
Sd-Zada  Tales  (Scribner;  $2),  in  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  menagerie  in 
a  great  city  tell  for  themselves  the  stories  of  their  lives ;  and  Seton's  Animal 
Heroes  (Scribner;  $2),  each  of  the  stories  vouched  for  by  the  author  as 
founded  on  the  actual  life  of  a  veritable  animal  hero;  and,  perhaps  most  in- 
forming of  all.  Red  Hunters  and  the  Animal  People,  by  Charles  A.  Eastman, 
M.  D.,  whose  name  among  the  Sioux  Indians,  of  whom  he  is  one,  is  "Ohi- 
yesa"  (Harper;  $1.25,  net).  And  some  very  little  people  may  find  entertain- 
ment in  the  study  of  J.  P.  Benson's  Woostlebeasts  (Moffat- Yard;  $1.25,  net), 
of  whom  the  Ho-Zay,  the  Jumblerun  and  the  Zoorabul  are  fair  speciments. 
Of  "Injun  books"  I  find  three  of  the  "New  Deerfoot  Series,"  by  Edward  S. 
Ellis  (Winston;  $1,  each)  ;  and  Everett  Tomlinson's  The  Red  Chief  (Hough- 
ton-Mifflin; $1.50).  I  should  not  recommend  any  of  these  to  an  ethnological 
student,  but  they  will  do  no  serious  harm. 

Because  notice  was  particularly  requested  in  or  before  the  December  num- 
ber, I  will  close  these  pages  of  Christmas  suggestions  by  mentioning  such  of 
the  holiday  offerings  of  Paul  Elder  &  Co.,  of  San  Francisco,  as  have  reached 
me.  All  of  these  have  been  prepared  with  great  attention  to  form;  some  of 
them  seem  to  me  entirely  unworthy  a  serious  publishing  house,  while  others 
are  of  more  consequence.  Womanhood  in  Art,  by  Phebe  Estelle  Spalding 
($1.50,  net),  is  a  "modest  interpretation  of  a  few  of  the  best-known  ideal 
conceptions  of  womanhood  in  art."  A  Chorus  of  Leaves  ($1^5,  net)  is  a 
volume  of  poems  by  Charles  G.  Blanden— slender,  but  worthy.  The  Psycho- 
logical Year  Book  is  a  series  of  quotations  "showing  the  laws,  the  ways,  the 
means,  the  methods,  for  gaining  lasting  health,  happiness,  peace  and  pros- 
perity"— which  ought  to  be  cheap  at  50  cents.  Sovereign  Woman  versus 
Mere  Man  ($1,  net)  is  a  "medley  of  quotations."  Blue  Monday  Book  (75 
cents,  net)  is  designed  to  do  away  with  "the  blues."  The  Menehunes  (75 
cents,  net)  is  a  Hawaiian  legend  told  by  Emily  Foster  Day.  Good  Things 
and  Graces,  by  Isabel  Cioodhue  (50  cents,  net),  is  to  my  taste  the  cleverest 
of  this  firm  s  holiday  offerings.  The  Matrimonial  Primer,  by  V.  B.  Ames  and 
(jordon  Ross,  is  amusing.  A  Child's  Book  of  Abridged  Wisdom,  by  "Childe 
Harold"  (75  cents,  net),  is  sheer  nonsense,  as  it  was  intended  to  be.  Joke 
Book  Note  Book,  invented  and  designed  by  Ethel  Watts  Mumford  (75  cents, 
net),  is  a  pocket-companion  intended  to  aid  in  catching  humor  on  the  fly. 
The  Complete  Cynic's  Calendar  of  Revised  Wisdom  for  1906  (75  cents,  fi^O 
matches  up  with  those  for  previous  years. 

Charles  Amadon  Moody. 


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603 
STOCKTON 

By  COLVIN  B,  BROWN 

fSfff  HE  closing  months  of  the  year  1905  have  witnessed  a  remarkable 
^^j  activity  in  electric  railway  construction  in  Central  California.  One 
of  the  chief  foci  of  the  system  now  under  construction  is  the  city  of 
Stockton.  There  are  now  being  built  in  and  around  this  city  one  hundred 
miles  of  electric  railway,  and  two  rival  companies  are  each  planning  sys- 
tems almost  as  extensive.  By  the  time  this  article  goes  to  print  cars  will 
be  running  upon  one  of  these  systems.  The  lines  now  building  tap  some 
of  the  finest  fruit  and  vineyard  districts  in  the  State  of  California.  Within 
twenty  miles  of  Stockton  are  over  20,000  acres  of  vineyard  and  nearly  as 
many  acres  of  orchard.  The  electric  roads  now  being  built  will  traverse 
this  orchard  and  vineyard  district  and  will  also  lead  out  to  the  south  and 
east  where  thousands  of  acres  have  been  planted  to  alfalfa.  The  farmers 
of  this  section,  who  for  a  number  of  years  have  enjoyed  rural  mail  de- 
livery and  telephones,  are  now  to  have  the  advantage  of  rapid  transit  on  an 
hourly  schedule.  To  appreciate  what  this  means  one  ought  to  see  the  coun- 
try. The. district  around  Stockton  is  a  level  prairie,  watered  by  no  less  than 
five  considerable  streams  which  flow  across  the  country  from  east  to  west. 
There  is  no  place  in  the  State  where  so  great  an  abundance  of  water  can  be 
so  easily  applied  to  the  land. 

The  small  farmer  in  San  Joaquin  County  has  prospered.  He  has  been 
cutting  from  six  to  ten  tons  of  alfalfa  to  the  acre  in  a  season  and  getting 
from  five  to  seven  dollars  a  ton  for  it.  He  has  sold  the  grapes  in  his 
vineyard  for  from  $150  to  $300  an  acre  as  they  hung  on  the  vines.  He 
has  harvested  big  crops  of  fruit  at  big  prices,  and  his  bank  account  has 
grown.  Fifteen  years  ago  two-thirds  of  the  area  of  San  Joaquin  County 
was  in  grain.  Today  less  than  one-third  of  the  county  is  planted  to  grain 
and   this    is    rapidly   diminishing.     The   orchard,    vineyard    and    dairy    farm 


WINTER  ON   TBB  SAN  JOAQUIN 


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MILBA  OP  NAVIOABLB  CHANIfBL'' 

are  taking  the  place  of  the  grain  Beld.  Grain  land  at  $40  an  acre  is  being 
turned  into  vineyard  worth  $300,  or  more,  an  acre.  There  are  300,000  acres 
in  the  county  that  can  be  utilized  for  vines  and  fruit  trees.  The  electric 
lines  now  building  will  hasten  the  cutting  up  of  the  big  wheat  farms  and 
lead  to  rapid  growth  in  population  and  inc  easing  prosperity.  In  1890  there 
were   1700  farms   in   San  Joaquin   County.     In   1900  there   were   1966  farms 


ALL  THB  STKBBTt  ARB  8HADBD  WITH   BLM8** 


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STOCKTON  60S 

of  an  average  size  of  382  acres  each.  A  crop  census  has  just  been  taken  show- 
ing that  the  number  of  farms  in  the  county  is  2360,  an  increase  of  20  per- 
cent, in  five  years. 

Some  idea  of  the  variety  of  crops  grown  in  San  Joaquin  County  may  be 
gathered  from  the  following  statistics  taken  from  a  report  of  the  State 
Board  of  Agriculture  on  November  i,  1905,  the  figures  being  acres:  Apples, 
127;  apricots,  850;  cherries,  344;  figs,  71;  lemons,  16;  oranges,  83;  nectarines, 
16;  olives,  482;  peaches,  1988;  pears,  274;  plums  and  prunmes,  687;  quinces, 
28;  almonds,  1501 ;  walnuts,  45;  table  grapes,  11,397;  wine  grapes,  9902; 
berries,  373;  alfalfa,  ii,794;  asparagus,  1822;  beans,  13,176;  watermelons, 
760;;  onions,  724;  potatoes,  17,823. 

The  census   returns  for  1900  include  2744  counties  in  the  United   States 


IRKXOATINO    A  VINBVAKD 

where  agriculture  is  practiced,  and  give  a  comparative  statement  of  the  re- 
wards of  farm  labor.  They  show  that  San  Joaquin  is  the  banner  barley 
county  of  the  Union,  ranking  first  in  acreage,  output  and  profit,  yielding 
3»467,520  bushels  and  returning  an  average  profit  of  $12.38  per  acre. 

San  Joaquin  also  ranks  first  among  the  2744  counties  in  the  production  of 
wheat,  having  produced  4,192,727  bushels — a  yield  of  17.4  bushels  and  a 
profit  of  $9.57  per  acre  to  the  farmer. 

San  Joaquin  also  ranks  first  in  potatoes,  showing  an  average  profit  of 
$62.05  per  acre,  or  $3.55  more  than  any  other  county  in  the  United  States. 

San  Joaquin  is  also  the  banner  bean  county  of  the  United  States,  yielding 
an  average  of  35.5  bushels  and  a  net  profit  of  $55.03  per  acre,  which  is  said 
to  be  double  that  of  any  other  county  in  the  United  States. 

Thirty  years  ago  Missouri   was  the  greatest   grape   producing   State,  but, 


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606  OUT    W.BST 


**NOSB8,  ROSB8  P.VBRYWHBKB" 

according  to  th€  census  of  1900,  San  Joaquin  County  produced  twice  as 
much  wine  as  .Missouri,  Illinois  and  Michigan  combined. 

San  Joaquin  is  the  banner  asparagus  county  of  the  Union,  also,  and  ranks 
hi^h  in  all  other  vegetables. 

This  is  a  wonderful  showing  for  a  single  county,  but  conservative  people 


A  BIOT  QF  PAPLIA8'' 


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STOCKTON  607 

such  as  Professor  Henry,  Dean  of  the  Wisconsin  State  Agricultural  Col- 
lege; Professor  Roberts,  Dean  of  Cornell;  Dr.  Albert  Shaw,  Editor  of  the 
American  Review  of  Reviews,  and  many  other  equally  eminent  authorities, 
have  given  it  as  their  opinion  that  the  county  has  by  no  means  reached  the 
limits  of  its  possibilities. 

And  what  of  Stockton,  the  seat  of  government  of  this  fertile  county  of  San 
Joaquin!     This  is  what  William  E.  Curtis,  the  well-known  writer  on  eco- 
nomic problems,  has  to  say  in  a  recent  letter  to  the  Chicago  Inter-Ocean : 
Stockton,  the  capital  of  San  Joaquin  County,  is  a  rich,  lively  town 
of  nearly  25,000  inhabitants,  with  a  semi-tropical  air.     The  business 
blocks  and  residences  indicate  wealth  and'  prosperity,  and  the  streets, 
parks  and  private  grounds  are  filled  with  a  profusion  of  shade  trees, 
palms,  bananas  and  flowering  shrubs.    There  is  a  good  deal  of  manu- 
facturing here,  with  oil  for  fuel,  and  electric  power,  generated  in  the 
mountains  forty-five  miles  away.     The  output  of  the  factories  last 
year   was   more  than   $14,000,000.     Two   railroads    run  through   the 


**TBB  HOMES  OF  THB  PBOPLB  ARB  SDB8TANTIAL  AND  HANDSOMELY  BUILT'* 

city — the  Southern  Pacific  and  the  Santa  Fe — and  numerous  steam- 
ship lines,  for  Stockton  is  at  the  head  of  tide  water  navigation. 

The  city  of  Stockton  is  located  seventy-five  miles  due  east  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  is  the  chief  city  of  and  gateway  to  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley. 
During  the  past  few  years  its  industrial  growth  hns  been  phenomenal  and  it 
has  come  to  be  one  of  the  leading  manufacturing  cities  of  California.  That 
it  will  hold  its  rank  as  a  manufacturing  city  seems  undoubted.  It  is  a  f.  eight 
terminal  with  water  competition  and  has  cheap  fuel  in  natural  gas  and  oil. 
The  Western  Pacific,  now  building  across  the  continent,  will  give  to  Stockton 
a  third  trans-continental  railway.  The  county  now  has  more  steam  railroad 
mileage  than  any  other  county  in  the  State,  and  within  the  county  are 
two  hundred  and  sixty-three  miles  of  navigable  channel. 

Immediately  to  the  west  of  the  city  of  Stockton  are  the  famous  delta  or 
island  lands— a  diked  country  similar  to  that  of  Holland.  These  lands  arc 
reclaimed  from  overflow  by  throwing  up  levees  along  the  river  channels. 
The  soil  is  mixed  peat  and  sediment,  wonderfully  rich  in  humus  and  other 


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608  OUT    WEST 


THB  STRBBT8  ARE  BROAD  AND  WBLL-PAVBD** 

chemical  elements  essential  to  plant  growth.  The  crops  yields  upon  these 
lands  are  enormous.  The  irrigation  problem  is  the  simplest  and  cheapest 
known.  The  water  in  the  channels,  being  navigable,  belongs  to  the  govern- 
ment and  can  be  taken  without  cost  by  the  farmer.     As  the  water  is  a  few 


L^OKIXCO  DOWN  STOCKTON  HARBOR 


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STOCKTON  609 


QNDBR  THB  SHADB  OF  THB  PALMS** 


inches  higher  tha^n  the  surface  of  the  reclaimed  land,  all  that  is  necessary  is 
to  tap  the  levee  and,  by  means  of  a  valve  in  a  flood  gate,  let  the  water  flow 
in  on  the  land  as  needed.  The  largest  herd  of  registered  dairy  cattle  in 
the  wo.  Id  is  located  on  this  delta.    The  very  best  pasture  grows  green  the 


MANY  BBAUTZFUL  CHURCH  BUILDIKOS** 


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610  OUT    WEST 


*'tbB  SHASTA  DAISY  GROWS  TO  PERFECTION** 

year  round.  The  largest  asparagus  farm  in  the  world  is  here.  The  total 
area  of  this  San  Joaquin  delta  is  300,000  acres.  More  than  half  of  this  has 
been  reclaimed  and  the  reclamation  of  the  remainder  is  proceeding  rapidly. 
There  is  a  Chamber  of  Commerce  in  Stockton  which  prints  a  magazine 
known  as  the  Gateway.  This  magazine  publishes  original  articles  written 
t>y   practical    farmers    who   have   had   years    of   experience    in    the    subjects 


PICNICKING   NBAR    STOCKTON 


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STOCKTON  611 


ONB  OP  SAN  JOAtiUIN*S  HQNDKBD  STBBAMS 

treated.  It  contains  a  great  fund  of  true  and  valuable  information  concern- 
ing the  section  with  which  it  d^als,  and  is  mailed  free  to  all  who  write  for 
it  enclosing  four  cents  in  stamps  to  cover  postage.  If  anyone  wishes  to 
know  more  of  this  wonderful  farming  country  surrounding  Stockton,  or 
of  the  city  itself,  he  should  write  to  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  for  the 
Gateway  Magazine. 


A  STOCKTON  HOME  IN   OBCBMBBR 


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613 
LONG   BEACH 

By  HARRIET  HARDIN  GAGE 

WENTY  years  ago  Long  Beach  was  principally  climate  and  sheep 
ranch.  The  sheep  ranch  has  disappeared,  but  the  climate  is  still 
there,  and  as  yet  no  enterprising  firm  has  secured  an  option  on  it; 
hence  it  is  as  free  as  air  to  any  one  who  claims  it.  Ten  years  ago  Long 
Beach  was  attractive  only  as  a  summer  resort,  and  prominent  as  the  home 
of  the  Chautauqua  Association  of  Southern  California,  and  the  Methodist 
Camp  Meeting.  These  two  assemblies  brought  a  large  number  of  the  very 
best  people  annually,  and  many  of  them  are  now  permanent  residents,  work- 
ing strenuously  for  the  enlargement  of  its  borders  and  the  strengthening  of 
its  stakes. 

Five  years  ago  Long  Beach  began  to  realize  its  importance  and  future 
possibilities  as  a  commercial  center.  Since  its  awakening  its  growth  in  pop- 
ulation and  business  power  has  been  phenomenal.  Its  very  location  is  a 
prime  cause  for  growth,  and  attractiveness  to  health-seekers.  Situated  on 
a  bluff  overlooking  the  grand  Pacific,  with  Catalina  Island  in  the  distance, 
and  to  the  westward  the  Palos  Verdes  hills,  it  is  protected  from  the  direct 
west  winds,  and  the  climate  is  exceedingly  equable,  owing  to  its  extended 
southern  exposure.  If  a  brisk  ocean  breeze  is  desired,  locate  on  the  sand 
or  on  the  bluff  commanding  a  limitless  view  of  the  water  with  the  sailing 
vessels  and  steamers  of  San  Pedro  harbor. 

Four  miles  of  level  land  lying  between  the  beach  and  the  already  famous 
Signal  Hill  offers  a  splendid  choice  of  acreage  for  homes,  or  small  farms 
for  the  cultivation  of  fruits  and  vegetables.  The  fertility  of  this  soil  is  al- 
most fabulous,  the  profits  from  one  acre  running  as  high  as  twelve  and 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  in  a  single  year.  The  water  supply  is  abundant,  but 
Illnstrated  from  pbotoffraphs  by  Bacon. 


LONG  BBACH  PAIK 


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614  OUT    WEST 


THB  SUN  PAKLOK 

less  irrigation  is  required  at  this  point  than  further  inland.  On  low  ground 
apples  and  alfalfa  are  grown  without  irrigation. 

The  public  spirit  and  civic  pride  of  Long  Beach  is  remarkable.  Realty 
values  are  high,  but  the  substantial  character  of  the  city's  improvements  in- 
sure their  permanency. 

The  new  pier,  built  a  year  ago,  is  something  of  which  every  resident  and 
every  one  interested  in  the  development  of  the  Pacific  Coast  may  well  be 
pfoud.  Since  its  completion  Long  Beach  has  had  numerous  visits  from  war 
ships,  both  foreign  and  domestic.  Frequently  during  the  year  Uncle  Sam's 
war  vessels,  cruising  in  southern  waters,  anchor  off  our  harbor  on  account 
of  the  splendid  landing  facilities,  the  resources  of  the  city,  and  its  proximity 
to  Los   Angeles.     Foreign  cruisers,   including   French  and   Italian,   have   re- 


IHB  PLEASUKB  PIBB,  LONG  BBACH 

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LONG    BBACH  615 

ceived  royal  welcome  here.  These  vessels  are  open  to  the  public  during 
their  visits  to  our  coast,  and  large  crowds  from  the  inland  towns  are  at- 
tracted to  Long  Beach  upon  the  arrival  of  a  fleet  of  war-ships. 

The  pier  is  a  promenade  eighteen  hundred  feet  long.  On  the  outer  end  is 
a  commodious  sun-parlor,  where  one  is  privileged  to  enjoy  the  sunshine  and 
water  and  at  the  same  time  be  sheltered  from  the  direct  ocean  breeze.  Here 
also  every  afternoon  and  evening  delightful  concerts  are  given. 

The  Long  B^ach  bath  house  has  for  three  years  been  one  of  the  show 
places  of  the  city.  The  building  is  an  a.tistic  structure,  one  of  the  finest  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  being  exceeded  in  size  by  only  two,  and  in  equipment  by 
non-e.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  public  schools.  They  are  up  to  date  in 
every  particular,  and  are  attracting  so  many  home-seekers  that  there  is  some- 
times difficulty  in  furnishing  accommodations  on  demand.     Four  new  school 


A  LONG  BBACH   BUSINESS  STKBBT 

buildings  have  been  erected  in  the  past  four  years  and  all  the  old  ones  re- 
modeled and  enlarged.  The  Pine  Avenue  building,  in  the  course  of  construc- 
tion, will  cost  seventy-five  thousand  dollars. 

Almost  every  secret  and  fraternal  organization  is  represented  in  Long 
Beach,  and  many  have  well  appointed  lodge  rooms.  The  Masonic  order 
possesses  a  fine  temple. 

Sixteen  religious  denominations  are  established  in  Long  Beach,  and  nearly 
all  have  fine  church  edifices.  The  churches  are  strong  and  prosperous,  and 
several  of  them  are  sustaining  missions.  Another  building  of  interest  to  the 
community  is  the  new  home,  owned  jointly  by  the  Young  Men's  and  Young 
Women's  Christian  Associations.  It  has  ample  accommodations  for  the 
needs  and  class  work  of  both  organizations.  Each  of  the  two  associations 
owns  a  club-house  and  grounds  on  the  river  west  of  town,  which  are  used 
for  social  and  athletic  purposes. 

The  Ebcll,  a  literary  club  for  wom^n,  with  a  membership  of  over  one  hun- 
dred, is  building  an  artistic  club-house  on  the  beach. 


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TBB  AUDITOR lUM,  LOKG  BEACH 

A  vigorous  "No  Saloon"  policy  expresses  the  moral  sentiment  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  this  has  probably  done  more  than  any  other  one  factor  to  stimulate 
the  substantial  growth  of  this  seaside  city.  For  five  years  Long  Beach  has 
been  absolutely  free  from  the  saloon. 

As  a  whole  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  streets  and  drives  that  surpass 
those  in  and  around  Long  Beach.  The  beach  itself  is  a  driveway  of  smooth 
white  sand,  firm  as  asphalt,  ten  miles  in  length,  extending  from  West  Long 
Beach  to  Alamitos  Bay,  in  an  unbroken  line.  Special  attention  has  been 
given  to  the  city  streets.  There  are  at  present  more  than  thirty  blocks  of 
paved  streets,  and  as  many  more  are  in  immediate  prospect.     And  all  other 


A  FAVOKITB  SPOKT  AT  LOIfO  BBACH 


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LONG    BEACH  617 

principal  thoroughfares  of  the  city  are  oiled,  and  many  of  the  suburban  roads 
also.  Cement  curbing  and  sidewalks  are  extensive,  and  the  streets  are  well 
lighted. 

Lx)ng  Beach  has  six  banks,  two  National,  two  State  and  two  Savings  Banks. 
Their  total  assets  exceed  three  millions  of  dollars.  A  handsome  addition  to 
ihe  fine  buildings  on  Pine  street  is  the  new  home  of  the  National  Bank  of 
Long  Beach  and  the  Long  Beach  Savings  Bank.  When  completed  it  will 
be  the  largest  and  the  most  valuable  block  in  the  city,  costing  approximately 
$165,000.00. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  good  family  hotels  and  apartment  houses. 
The  traveling  public  has  long  been  clamoring  for  a  tourist  hotel  in  Long 
Beach.    The  efforts  of  progressive  citizens  have  at  last  culminated  in  the  mag- 


A  LONG  BBACH  RBSIDBNCB 

nificent  hostelry  that  will  be  built  at  an  expenditure  of  $350,000.00.  on  the 
bluff  and  sands  west  of  the  pier.  The  plans  are  the  work  of  J.  C.  Austin, 
who  designed  the  famous  Hotel  Potter  of  Santa  Barbara.  It  will  be  one  of 
the  largest  and  the  most  finely  equipped  of  any  in  California. 

The  car  system  of  Long  Beach  is  thoroughly  good,  and  extensions  are 
constantly  being  made.  The  regular  fifteen  minute  service  to  Los  Angeles 
is  increased  to  seven  and  even  four  minutes  on  special  days  and  holidays. 
Five  cities  are  at  present  directly  connected  with  Long  Beach  by  trolley,  and 
the  local  lines  are  numerous.  Two  transcontinental  railways — ^the  Southern 
Pacific  and  the  "Salt  Lake" — touch  Long  Beach. 

An  edifice  to  which  Long  Beach  may  point  with  pride  is  the  recently  com- 
pleted Auditorium,  which  adjoins  the  pi«r  at  th«  water's  edge,  built  for  the 


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618  OUT    WEST 


A  LONG  BBACH  BUSINESS  COKNBR 


use  of  the  public  at  an  outlay  of  forty  thousand  dollars.  Twenty-two  thous- 
and incandescent  lamps  are  used  in  lighting  it.  It  is  unquestionably  the 
finest  auditorium  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  also  the  largest,  having  a  seating 
capacity  of  six  thousand.    Even  this  may  prove  too  small  for  the  crowds  who 


BOTBL  TO  BB  BRBCTBD  AT  LONG  BBACH 


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LONG    BEACH  619 


PALM  DRIVB,  SIGNAL   HILL 


A  KBSIDBNCB  ON  SIGNAL  HILL 


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620  OUT    WEST 


NBW  NATIONAL  BANK  BUILDING,  LONG  BBACH 

will  attend  the  Chautauqua  next  July.  The  only  Chautauqua  in  Southern 
California  is  located  here,  and  our  citizens  take  great  pleasure  and  secure  great 
profit  in  sustaining  it. 

The  extension  of  the  Pacific  Electric  to  Signal  Hill  means  much  to  Long 
Beach.  A  duplicate  "Smiley  Heights"  is  planned  for  this  hill  of  ancient 
fame.  From  the  summit  of  Signal  H-ill,  four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea, 
twenty-seven  cities  and  towns  are  visible. 

The  elevation  of  this  hill  is  favorable  to  the  cultivation  of  flowers  and 
small  fruits.  Several  large  floral  gardens  and  bulb-ranches  are  located  here. 
Fre^sias  are  grown  by  the  acre. 

Long  Beach  has  **all  the  modern  improvements" — a  large  electric  light 
plant,  three  gas  companies,  two  telephone  systems,  three  daily  papers  and 
two  weekly  papers. 

We  have  said  but  little  of  the  beauty  of  Long  Beach — its  charming 
homes,  its  lawns  and  flowers  and  drive-ways,  its  magnificent  views 
of  mountain,  sea  and  sky,  its  attractions  and  diversions  for  tourists — 
but  we  have  them  all.  The  foregoing  story  of  achievements  verifies  the  claim 
of  Long  Beach  to  the  title,  "The  City  That  Does  Things." 


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621 
SAN  JACINTO 

By  FRANCIS  MINER  MOODY 

^SS/k  O  THE  homeseeker  and  the  tourist  alike  Mount  San  Jacinto  and  the 
^^1  city  that  bears  its  name  are  of  great  interest;  The  mountain  surpasses 
all  its  brother  giants  on  earth  in  the  vast  bulk  that  rises  for  ten 
thousand  feet  above  the  surrounding  count;  y.  Other  mountains  have  greater 
altitude,  but  none  so  great  an  uplift.  Nowhere  else  can  one  find  so  lofty  a 
spectacle  as  may  be  seen  from  the  adjoining  valleys  for  many  miles.  Of  all 
possible  viewpoints  for  a  near  vision  of  its  manifold  wonders,  the  city  of  San 
Jacinto  is  the  best.  Look  at  him !  Cloud  crowned  and  glorious,  his  hoary 
head  gleaming  in  the  sun  of  the  winter  morning,  and  his  cool  soft  breath 
stirring  the  pulses,  he  oflFe.s  for  one's  quickening  an  ozone  more  invigorating 
than  an  electric  shock. 

Separated  from  the  ocean  by  a  span  of  fifty  miles,  and  mountain-girt  on 
every  hand,  this  singularly  favored  city  is  seldom  visited  by  either  fogs  or 
"Northers."  So  the  clear,  bright  days,  for  which  our  sunny  southland  is 
justly  famous,  a.e  more  numerous  and  more  enjoyed.  Such  days  bring  the 
summer  fruit  to  its  highest  perfection,  and  give  well  ripened  maturity  to  the 
mid-winter  vegetables.  Every  variety  of  deciduous  fruit  thrives  abundantly 
in  this  garden  spot.  Peaches,  pears  and  grapes  are  particularly  fine  in  qual- 
ity. The  children  live  out  in  the  sunshine,  eat  the  fruit  and  grow  strong.  No 
wonder  death  finds  scant  harvesting  in  such  a  pestless  paradise. 

For  the  health  seeker  there  are  added  attractions.  From  the  nearby  hill- 
sides flow  an  unusual  number  and  variety  of  mineral  waters.  For  example, 
the  Soboba  Lithia  and  Sulphur  Springs  provide  direct  from  Nature's  store- 
house healing  waters,  some  hot  and  some  cold.  A  comfortable  bath  house, 
with  wide  verandas,  stands  hard-by  the  hill.  Five  miles  northwest  of  San 
Jacinto,  are  the  Relief  Hot  Mud  Springs.  The  hot  sulphur  water  and  hot 
mud  baths  of  these  Springs  have  effected  the  cure  of  many  forms  of  rheuma- 
tism and  of  other  blood  diseases. 

A  mile  in  the  air  above  sea  level  and  fifteen  miles  by  road  from  the  city 
is  the  Idyllwild  Mountain  Hotel  Resort,  with  its  healthful  burden  of  clustered 
pine  trees  and  wealth  of  balsam  shade,  a  fine,  dry  air  for  tired  lungs,  and  rest 


DAIRY  HBRD  NBAR  SAN  JACIlfTO 

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SAN    JACINTO  623 


A  SAN  JACINTO  SCHOOL 

for  weary  nerves.  Ranging  along  the  mountain  stream  of  Strawberry  Valley 
and  through  its  forests,  many  a  tourist  has  found  more  abundant  life. 

Great  as  these  allurements  are  to  the  wise-hearted  tourist  and  transient 
resident,  the  inducements  to  the  peimanent  homeseeker  are  even  greater. 
Water  and  good  soil  are  the  two  equally  important  factors  in  determining 
the  value  of  a  home  in  Southern  California.  San  Jacinto  is  the  fortunate 
possessor  of  both  of  these  in  abundance.  An  artesian  water  belt  of  five  thous- 
and acres  lies  under  and  around  the  city.  The  deep  rich  soil  of  this  part 
of  the  San  Jacinto  Valley  needs  only  the  judicious*  use  of  this  water  supply 
in  order  to  secure  results  that  will  challenge  comparison  with  the  best  lands. 
To  purchase  some  of  the  thousand  acres  of  this  artesian  land  that  are  on  the 
market,  is  to  lay  the  foundation  of  a  good  success.  To  illustrate,  let  us  con- 
sider some  of  the  results  accomplished,  as  officially  stated  by  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce : 

On  the  Copeland  Bros.'  dairy  ranch  .is  a  two-inch  well,  which  spouts 
forth  a  steady  stream  of  water  to  a  height  of  seventeen  inches  above  the 
pipe.  This  one  small  well  furnishes  enough  water  to  irrigate  ten  acres  of 
alfalfa  from  which  an  average  of  not  less  than  eight  tons  of  cured  hay  per 
acre  is  secured  per  annum.  At  the  low  price  of  $7.50  per  ton,  here  is  a  yield 
of  $60.00  per  acre  or  $600.00  for  the  ten  acres.  Consider  this  hay  fed  to  high 
grade  dairy  cows  whose  butter  averages  from  20  cents  to  30  cents  per  pound 
the  year  around,  and  you  can  see  for  yourself  whether  dairying  in  San  Ja- 
cinto's artesian  belt  is  profitable  or  not.  Do  you  wonder  that  San  Jacinto's 
monthly  butter  output  is  very  close  to  30,000  pounds?  What  can  a  man  not 
do  in  a  place  where  eight  tons  of  alfalfa,  twenty  tons  of  tomatoes,  ten  to 
fifteen  tons  of  pears,  or  as  many  peaches,  can  be  raised  from  a  single  acre  in 


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624  OUT    WEST 


STRBBT  SCBNB,  SAN  JACINTO 

a  single  year?  Who  would  not  like  to  live  in  a  place  where  cauliflower,  as- 
paragus and  other  vegetables  are  at  their  best  in  December,  January  and 
February  and  where  strawberries  may  be  raised  nearly  the  entire  year  around? 

In  this  connection  we  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  quarter-acre  straw- 
berry patch  that  yielded  one-hundred  and  forty-two  dollars  worth  of  berries 
in  six  months. 

Outside  this  artesian  belt  and  only  two  miles  from  the  city,  lie  three  thous- 
and acres  of  good  mesa  land.  For  the  irrigation  of  this  tract  the  San  Jacinto 
Water  Company  has  completed  a  system  of  cement  ditches  and  pipes  through 
which  an  abundant  supply  of  water  will  be  furnished  to  the  ranchers  who 
take  up  the  property.  A  few  miles  off  to  the  northwest  of  the  city  are 
Snyder's  lime  kilns,  furnishing  a  high  grade  of  lime  to  the  trade. 

We  have  shown  you  the  setting  of  our  jewel,  San  Jacinto;  now  about  the 
gem  city  of  the  valley.  It  is  regularly  incorporated  as  a  city  of  the  fifth  class. 
Several  churches  open  their  doors  for  worship  to  the  many  people.  Educa- 
tional interests  are  provided  for  by  a  grammar  school  and  a  high  school.  The 
prosperity  of  the  numerous  business  houses  is  certified  by  the  presence  of  a 
thrifty  and  well  managed  National  Bank.  Of  the  two  creameries  that  care 
for  the  dairy  products  brought  in  from  the  surrounding  country,  one  is  con- 
nected with  an  ice-plant  and  uses  the  Pasteurizing  process.  The  two  lumber 
yards  are  entirely  supplied  by  native  timber.  Two  planing  mills  and  a  box 
factory,  two  hotels  and  a  newspaper,  a  city  pumping  plant  and  water-pipe 
system,  and  electric  lights  for  the  town  reveal  the  progressive  spirit  of  the  citi- 
zens. The  Sunset  Telephone  Company  has  been  long  in  this  field,  and  the 
Home  Company  has  just  completed  an  exchange  including  over  two  hun- 
dred telephones,  with  long  distance  connections.  Already  the  terminus  of  an 
important  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad,  San  Jacinto  expects  a  speedy  con- 
nection with  Rcdlands  by  trolley,  for  which  a  survey  is  now  being  made. 


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lieep  Your  Eyes  on 

Palo    Alto 


The  J.  J.  Morris  Real  Estate  Company 

Invite  your  attention  to  the  following  facts 
about  the  Town  of  Palo  Alto: 

Palo  Alto  has  5,000  population.  Two  Banks.  Four  Public  School  Buildings. 
Seven  Churches.  A  CoUeg^e  of  Photog^raphy.  Three  Newspapers.  Free  Mail 
Delivery.  A  good  Fire  Department.  Perfect  Sewerage.  Artesian  Water  System 
owned  by  the  Municipality.  Electric  Lighting  Plant  owned  by  the  Municipality. 
Assessed  valuation  Two  and  a  Quarter  Millions  of  Dollars.  The  seat  of  the  Leland 
Stanford  Junior  University,  the  most  richly  endowed  institution  of  learning  in  the 
world.  35  Miles  of  Concrete  Walk,  15  Mails  Dispatched  and  15  Mails  Received  daily. 
The  Best  all  round  Climate  in  the  World. 


For  full  information  about  investments  in  Palo  Alto  or  Santa  Clara  County,  write 
for  the  free  copy  of  the  Real  Estate  News,  our  monthly  publication. 

The  J.  J.  Morris  Real  Estate  Co. 

J.  S.  LAKIN.  President.    J.  J.  MORRIS,  Manager.    MARSHALL  BLACK,  SecreUry 

120  University  Ave.,  Palo  Alto,  California 


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Out  West  Magazine  Company 

CHA8.  P.  LUMMIS,  President  J.  C.  PERRY,  Secretary  and  Treasurer 

C.  A.  MOODY,   Vice  President  and  General  Manager 

PTrBLI8HBK8  OF 

OUT    V^EST 


Edited 


by\ 


CHAS,  F.  LUMMIS 
CHARLES  A  MA  DON  MOODY 


Entered  at  the  Los  Angeles  Postoffice  as  Second-class  Matter. 


A  "n  VPl?  T^TQT'Mri.  "P  A  T^T^Q  w^l  becfaeerfnlly  furnished  on  application,  and  contracts  accepted 
n.LJ  y  j:vxn.  a  X01i>  ^J  JX-n.  a  -LVO  <,„  a  positive  irnarantce  that,  raics  and  circulation  considered,  the 
OUT  W£ST  is  cheaper  than  any  similar  publication  in  the  United  States.  Special  discounts  allowed  on  3, 6  and 
12  month  contracts.  Rates  of  cover-paves  and  other  preferred  spaces  (when  available)  will  be  named  on  appli- 
cation.    Tht  pubiishtr*  reserve  the  right  to  decline  any  advertising  not  considered  desirable. 

Size  of  columns  2Mx8  inches— two  columns  to  the  pare.     Last  advertising  form  closes!  on  the  15th  of  month 
precpdinff  date  of  issue.    Advertisers  are  earnestly  requested  to  instruct  as  early  as  the 5th  whenever  possible. 

QTTRQPl?  TPTTOXT  PT?TPT?«  $2.00  a  year  delivered  post-free  to  any  point  in  the  United  SUtes, 
OUOOV^IN^ir  1  IWIN     riS.l\w-LV.    Canada.  Cuba  or  Mexico.    $2  75  a  year  to  any  other  country. 


A 11  manuscript,  and  other  matter  requiring  the  attention  of  the  editor,  should  be  addressed  to  him. 
ters  about  subscriptions,  advertising-,  or  other  business,  should  be  addressed 


All  let- 


CS:/ 


OUT  WEST  MAGAZINE  COMPANY,  I/OS  Angbi,»s,  Cai^ 


Office 
be  a  Simple,  Efficient  Method 
of  Filing  Corres] 


The  origlnAl  Shannon  System  (nude  solely  by  us)  ] 
not  merely  instant  location  of  any  paper— but  also  positi 
and  Unlimited  Capacity.  Oar  catalogue  No.30IIL  takes  up  tl 
in  detail.     Kay  we  send  it  to  you  ? 


YAWHAN  &  ERBE  MFG.  CO. 

Los  Anreles  Arency : 

THE  OUT  WEST  CO. 

San  Praacisco  Office,  635  Mission  Si. 

Main  Factories  and  Ex.  Offices, 
Rochester,  N.  Y 


Rapid  RoUi 
Letter  Copi 

proYides  the  oi 
sure  way  of  cop 
respondence.  Sho 
correction  or  a 
Strong— speedy 
operated.  Writ 
for  catalogue  ^o 


i2i♦^J*aawK5vw*>i«swflfflw^^ 


RamonaTo 


ECONOMY  SIMPLlaTY  ASSURANCE 

AIL[N'S  BOSTON  BROWN 
BR[AD  nOUR 


ECOIMOIVIY 

Even  though  pure,  wholesome  food  does  cost  a  little  more, 
it  is  always  economy  to  keep  healthy,  and  by  the  use  of  Allen^s 
B«  B«  B*  Flour,  which  is  a  blend  of  several  of  the  most  nutritious 
grains,  time  is  saved  and  health  is  gained* 

SimPLICITY 

Any  child  can  make  a  perfect  loaf  of  Boston  brown  bread 
by  using  Allen's  self-rising  Boston  Brown  Bread  Flour.  It  does 
not  require  either  skill  or  experience  to  make  delicious  griddle 
cakes  or  muffins  from  this  same  floun  Just  follow  the  directions; 
they  are  simple,  brief  and  easily  understood* 

ASSURANCE 

There  is  no  chance  work  in  using  B*  B*  B*  floun  No 
failures*  No  ^'sometimes  good  and  sometimes  not  so  good/' 
All  the  ingredients  are  carefully  weighed  and  blended*  All  the 
recipes  have  been  thoroughly  tested,  and  if  directions  are  followed, 
results  will  be  uniform* 

Ask  your  grocer  for  it*    He  can  get  it  from  any  jobber* 

Alleo's  B.  B.  B.  FhMr  Co.,  Pacific  Coast  Factory,  Sao  Jose,  Cal. 

Digitized  byVjOOQiC 


You  Can  Make  Money 


by  purchasing  an  interest  in  this 
big  Cash  Store.  The  people  of  the 
west  know  that  this  is  the  largest 
Mail  Order  House  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and  the  magnitude  of  our 


sales  enable  us  to  undefseU  our 
competitors.  So  we  save  our  ci»- 
tomers  money  and  make  money  in 
so  doing. 


You  Can  SHare  our  Profits 


the  Cash  Store  is  yours  to  the  ex- 
tent that  you  invest.  A  fifty  dollar 
investment  gives  you  five  shares  of 
stock  which  we  absolutely  guaran- 
tee to  bear  interest  at  not  less  than 


6  per  cent,  per  annum.  Besides, 
you  will  secure  everyth  ng  you  re- 
quire for  eating,  use  and  wear  at 
owners*  prices. 


THink  of  tHe  Saving 


that  you  will  make  every  year  on 
your  household  supplies  alone  hy 
becoming  a  stockholder  in  this  big 
profit  shanng  Cash  Store.  Besides, 
you  get  owners'  rates  on  Furniture, 
Dry  Goods,  Clothing,  Shoes— in 


{;; 


A  Judicious 

ou  will  never  find  a  more  profita- 
ble use  for  yourmoney  than  by  buy- 
ing a  partnership  in  this  big  profit 
sharing  Cash  Store.  Every  day  you 
will  realize  its  benefits  in  the  money 
you  save  on  household  necessities. 

Your  Last 

to  secure  stock  for  $10.00  a  share 
may  be  in  this  advertisement.  This 
year's  eammgs  will  warrant  an  in- 
crease in  the  price  of  the  stock — 
five  vears  ago  it  sold  for  $3  a  share. 
Hundreds  of  new  customers  are 
buying  here  every  month.  You  are 
bound  to  make  money  from  this  in- 
vestment. Perhaps  your  money  is 
earning  3  per  cent,  in  a  Savings 
Bank.  The  bank  may  be  safe,  but 
it  is  no  safer  than  this  big,  solid 


fact  everything  that  anyone  needs 
in  every  walk  in  life.  Then  there 
is  the  annual  income  you  earn  from 
your  investment  which  will  be  al- 
ways greater  than  6  per  cent. 

Investment 

Even  a  fifty  dollar  investment  gives 
you  a  material  interest  in  every  arti- 
cle that  goes  in  or  out  of  the|;reat- 
est  Cash  Store  Mail  Order  Business 
in  the  west. 


CHance 

Cash  Store  which  doubles  the  earn- 
ing power  of  your  money.  If  you 
are  satisfied  that  this  is  uie  kind  of 
investment  that  you've  been  look- 
ing for,  Just  make  draft,  check  or 
money  order  payable  to  SMITHS* 
CASH  STORE,  Inc.,  or  Harper 
A.  Smith,  President  If  you  would 
like  to  know  more  of  the  Cash 
Store,  call  and  and  see  us  or  mail 
this  coupon  today — it  in  no  way 
obligates  you. 


^      SMITHS'   CASH    STORE 
26  MARKET  ST.,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 

Gentlemen: — /  am  interested  in  your  co-operative  profit  sharing 
pian^  and  will  be  pleased  to  have  you  send  me  your  ^^ Prospectus**^  and 
Price  Catalogue, 


Name.. 


Town. 


State.. 


SMITHS'   CASH   STORE 


25  Market  Street 

San  Francisco*  Cala.  Kstab 


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EXPLANATION 

OF  ADVERTISEMENT  ON  OPPOSITE  PAGE 

Over  twenty- five  years  ago  the  writer,  then  a  boy  of  17,  began  this 
business  in  San  Francisco,  with  the  assistance,  experience  and  business 
ability,  amounting  almost  to  genius,  of  his  father,  both  working  hand  in 
^and  in  establishing  what  we  wished  to  make,  and  today  is.  the  greatest 
Mail  Order  House  on  the  Coast,  permanently  maintained  through  the  con- 
fidence built  up  among  the  buying  public.  I  am  authorized  to  offer  you 
today  for  the  further  extension  of  the  business  a  part  interest  identical 
with  that  of  my  own — so  that  you  may  go  into  partnership  with  me  to 
whatever  extent  you  desire,  not  exceeding  $1000.00.  and  make  Just  as 
much  money  from  your  portion  of  the  investment  as  1  do  from  mine.  You 
put  in  the  money  against  my  time  and  experience.  It  goes  into  the  Com- 
pany's Treasury  at  once  and  begrins  to  earn  profits,  which  we  divide  equally 
twice  a  year.  I  personally  own  most  of  the  stock  and  control  and  manage 
the  business. 

The  business  is  of  a  mall  order  character,  almost  exclusively  out  of 
town.  Our  catalogues  are  our  only  solicitors,  and  purchases  and  sales  are 
strictly  on  a  cash  basis,  so  there  is  no  commercial  risk. 

Profits  result  from  the  large  turn-over  of  goods  and  the  very  small 
expenses  of  running  our  business  because  of  Its  co-operative  nature  and 
because  of  the  money  we  save  in  buying  and  selling  for  cash  on  close  mar- 
gin of  profits.  Advertising  expense  is  practically  eliminated.  In  view  of 
the  amount  we  save  we  can  give  to  each  shareholder  a  discount  of  5  per 
cent,  on  all  goods  purchased,  and  only  shareholders  obtain  this,  rebate. 
As  nearly  90  per  cent,  of  our  sales  are  made  to  persons  who  are  not  share- 
holders, it  will  be  seen  that  our  prices  are  exceptionally  low  even  without 
tho  discount,  and  this  5  per  cent,  is  a  clear  saving  or  absolute  return  di- 
rect from  the  investment;  practically  speaking,  an  additional  dividend  for  the 
members  of  the  association. 

The  writer  originated  the  idea  of  having  the  store  on  a  mutual  basis, 
not  because  of  the  money  the  plan  brings  from  the  sale  of  stock,  but  be- 
cause it  welds  present  customers  to  the  store,  because  it  is  their  store  and 
OUTS  mutually  and  their  purchases  help  to  swell  profits  and  dividends.  I 
knew,  too,  that  1,000  to  10,000  co-operators,  owners  and  customers,  would 
make  this  one  of  the  greatest  Institutions  In  the  land,  doing  good  as  well 
as  making  money. 

As  soon  as  you  send  us  $50.00  we  will  issue  you  a  certificate  of  owner- 
ship under  our  California  State  Charter,  showing  your  interest  in  the  bus- 
iness, and  immediately  upon  paying  for  it  you  are  entitled  to  deduct  5  cents 
on  every  dollar's  worth  of  goods  purchased  from  the  lowest  prices  we 
quote  any  one.  Thus,  if  you  are  sending  a  $50.00  order  you  can  deduct 
$2.50  and  send  us  $47.50  instead. 

We  would  rather  have  a  great  number  of  subscribers  at  $50.00  than 
a  few  at  $1000.00  each. 

We  could  readily  dispose  of  all  of  the  stock  we  have  to  sell  In  a 
block,  but  this  would  not  further  our  co-operative  plans. 

I  hope  you  will  at  least  write  to  me  if  there  is  anything  further  I  can 
say  to  you  on  the  subject.  Yours  very  truly, 

HARPER  A.  SMITH 

President  SMITHS'  CASH  STORE,  Co-operative. 

Of  SAN  FRANCISCO 


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AMMIMTION 

Repeating  Rifles  and  Shotguns 


AWARDED 


The  Only  Grand  Prize 

The  Highest  Obtatnablc  Honor  given  for  Arms  and  Ammunition 
by  the  Superior  Jury  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition 

At  ST.  LOUIS 

This  verdict  of  superiority  of  Winchester  Guns  and  Ammunition  over  aU 
other  makes  is  no  surprise  to  intelligent  and  up-to-date  sportsmen  the  world 
over.  It  will  be  regarded  everywhere  as  the  logical  result  of  many  years  of 
careful  and  successful  effort  to  keep  the  quality  of  Winchester  Rifles,  Shotguns 
and  Anmiunition  on  the  same  high  plane  that  has  made  them  famous  the 
world  over  for  Accuracy,  Finish,  Strength  and  Reliability,  and  this  recognition 
of  superiority  is  one  which  cannot  be  duplicated^ 

Winchester  Repeating  Arms  Co. 

PACIFIC  COAST  AGENCY,  SAN  FRANCISCO         A.  MULLER,  Agent 


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TAPESTRY  PAINTINGS 

2000  Tapestry  Paiatiog^s  to  choose  from.    38  Artists  employed,  includiog  Gold 

Medalists  from  the  Paris  Salon. 

Special  Desig^ns  Furnished  for  Special  Rooms.     Artistic  Home  Decoration 

WBCAN  SHOW  TOU  effects  never  before  thonarht  of  and  at  moderate  prices,  too.  Write  for  color 
Schemes,  Desis^ns,  Bstimlten.  ^S^Artists  Sent  to  All  Pakts  opthk  World  to  execute  every 
sort  of  d  coration.  We  are  educatinir  the  country  in  Color  Harmony.  We  supply  everytbinir  that  flroes  to 
make  up  the  Interior  of  a  Home— Stained  Glass,  Relief  Carpets,  Furniture,  Parquetry,  Tiles,  Window 
Shades,  Art  Hanflrinffs,  Draperies,  Posters. 


RUSSIAN    TAPESTRY 

For  Wall  Hangings  In  colors  to  match  all 
kinds  of  woodwork,  carpets,  draperies,  furni- 
ture coverings,  etc.  Is  the  best,  newest  and 
most  durable  of  Its  kind.  It  is  made  52  and 
76  Inches  wide,  so  that  a  wall  may  be  cov- 
ered without  a  single  seam  showing — a  great 
advantage  over  burlap— and  the  cost  Is  very 
little  more. 
ART   CRETONS 

The  sidewalls  of  boudoirs  or  bed  chambers 
covered  with  Gobelin  Art  Cretons  possess  at 
once  the  artistic  advantage  of  grace  In  de- 
sign, with  the  softness  and  richness  of  the 
most  expensive  Imported  Damasks  at  a 
trifling  cost  above  that  of  wall  paper. 
WALL    PAPER 

Our  stock  of  wall  paper  has  been  carefully 
selected  from  the  full  line  of  every  wall  pa- 
per manufacturer  both  in  America,  Canada 
and  Europe.  Each  paper  has  been  selected 
for  some  special  purpose  and  has  -dualities 
in  it  which  our  expert  color  salesman  will  be 
glad  to  explain.  There  are  among  them 
many  beautiful  designs  ranging  In  price  from 
10  cents  (a  roll  of  8  full  yds.)  up. 
DRAPERIES 

Every  one  knows  the  Importance  which 
draperies  impart  to  a 
house;  they  make  or 
mar.  It  is  admitted 
that  not  everyone  is 
competent  to  select 
the  proper  colorings 
to  intone  with  the 
sldewall  decorations 
and  furniture  cover- 
ings. Each  of  our 
salesmen  Is  an  expert 
In  this;  and  our  pat- 
rons may  be  sure  that 
they  will  not  get  the 
customary  mechanical 
inattention  of  Incom- 
petent salesmen ;  but 
will  be  served  by  men 

who  have  had  wide  experience,  and  who  en- 
ter wita  enthusiasm  Into  their  work — men 
who  have  made  color  harmony  their  chief 
study  We  make  no  extra  change  for  this 
valuable  service,  l.iere's  surely  some  satis- 
faction in- knowing  that  one  can  get  "the 
proper  thing"  from  us.  We  have  established 
our  own  mills  for  the  manufacture  of  dra- 
peries speclallv  made  In  design  and  colorings 
to  match  wall  papers,  and  other  side  wall 
coverings.  The  propriety  of  our  prices  will 
astonish    you. 

ILLUSTRATED     COMPENDIUM     OF     THE 
DOUTHITT    TAPESTRY    PAINTING 
STUDIES. 

There  are  more  than  Five  Hundred  of  these 
illustrations,  and  the  publication  of  this 
Compendium  repre.sents  an  outlay  of  Ten 
Thousand  Dollars  and  usually  sells  for  $1.00 
a  copy.  To  the  readers  of  "Out  West,"  an 
arrangement  has  been  made  to  send  a  copy 
on  receipt  of  only  20  cents. 


FREE 

If  you  will  send  us  the  floor  plans  of  your 
house  we  will  send  you  free  a  color  scheme. 
Illustrated  by  samples  themselves.  Tell  us 
what  you  want  on  the  walls  of  the  principal 
rooms — tint,  paint,  paper  or  stuff.  If  pos- 
sible send  us  the  plans,  rough  pencil  outline 
will  do.  Tell  us  if  you  want  curtains,  car- 
pets, furniture — in  fact,  Itemize  to  us  every- 
thing you  desire.  Send  25  cents  to  pay 
postage. 

DOUTHITT'S   MANUAL   OF 
ART    DECORATIONS. 

The  art  book  of  the  century,  200  royal  quar- 
to pages  flUed  with  full-page  colored  illus- 
trations of  modern  home  interiors  and  stud- 
ies. Price,  $2.00.  If  you  want  to  keep  up 
In  decoration  send  %1  for  this  book,  worth  $50. 
SCHOOL 

In  our  Tapestry  Painting  School  (which  wo 
have  arranged  to  keep  open  the  year  around 
for  the  beneflt  of  out-of-town  students  and 
others)  we  give  six  3-hour  lessons  for  only 
$5.00.  We  sell  complete  Printed  Instructions 
by  mail  for  11.00.  New  Compendium  of  550 
studies,  50  cents.  This  compendium  Is  sent 
free  with  Printed  Instructions.  We  rent 
tapestry  paintings.  Full  size  drawings, 
paints,  brushes,  etc., 
supplied.  Nowhere, 

Paris  not  excepted, 
are  such  advantages 
offered  pupils. 
TAPESTRY 
MATERIALS 
We  manufacture  Tap- 
estry Material  for 
painting  upon,  super- 
ior to  foreisrn  goods 
and  half  the  price. 
Book  of  samples,  10 
cents.  Send  $1.50  for 
trial  order  for  two 
yards  of  50-Inch  wide 
No.  6  goods,  worth  $3. 
FURNITURE. 

On  this  page  we  illustrate  specimens  of  our 
Comfort  Vibrating  Furniture.  This  furni- 
ture is 

Indestructible— Artistic^ 

Sanitary — Restful 

It  Is  manufactured  In  different  designs  for 
the  parlor,  library,  chamber,  smoking-room, 
cosy-corner;  also  hospitals,  sanitariums, 
clubs,  hotels,  verandas,  lawns,  summer  re- 
sorts and  numberless  other  purposes. 

Our  line  of  Children's  Beds  and  Cradles  is 
now  ready  for  the  market.  A  booklet  de- 
.sorlptlve  of  all  our  Comfort  Vibrating  Furni- 
ture with  prices  will  promptly  be  sent  upon 
reoupst. 

Special  attention  Is  given  to  Correspond- 
ence, and  our  Color  Experts  will  answer  all 
ouestions  pertaining  to  Furnishing  and  Dec- 
orating the  Home. 


A  full  line  of  Posters  by  Riviere, 
Mucha,  Llvemont,  Casslers,  Go- 
lay  and  all  the  eminent  French, 

German     and      English     Poster       «.-«  «..-,«^«,    ^ ..,—    .^^        .^  .   «       ^,»««*  «,.^^  «. 
Artists     :::::::::       273  riFTH  AVE.  (Near  30th  St.)  NEW  YORK 


JOHN  r.  DOUTHITT 

*'TKe  Do\atKitt  Building" 


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Engraved 

Engraved 

Wedding  Invitations                       Announcements 

M  A  jTE  EXTEND  a  cordial 

WB    invitation      to    cali 

•.SpK.  and     inspect     tlie 

cram's  Kid 

T    f       latest  effects  in  Fine 
Stationery. 

Berlin's 

Flnlsii 

We  show  Crane's  Linen  Lawn 

Colonial 

Wedding 

in    nobby    sizes   with   the  deep 

Wliite 

stock  in 
tiie  Exclasive 

pointed  flap  Envelopes  to  match. 

Berlin's    Colonial     Lawn,     in 

White   and    Tinto,   completes  a 

Wedding 
Stock  in  select 

"PaarlOrey" 

full   line    of    the    best   wrltlns 
papers  made. 

Prince   Henry  Note   in  Linen, 
Bond,  Plate,  and  Kid  finish,  35c 
per  lb.    Envelopes  to  match. 

sizes 

(%2^^^^^t^^ 

Stationers 

115  South  Broadway 

Los  Angeles 

Engraved 

Engraved 

At  Home  C 

ards                                ( 

falling  Cards 

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LEADING  HOTELS  OF"  THE  COAST 

Below  will  be  fonnd,  for  the  information  of  tourists  who  Tisit  California,  a  list  of  the  best  hotels,  both 
tourist  and  commercial,  in  the  leading-  Resorts  and  Cities  of  the  State.  A  postal  card  of  inquiry  will 
bring-  literature  and  information  as  to  rates,  bj  return  mail. 


A  NGELUS,  Los  Angeles 

*^  The  leading-  Hotel  of  the  city*  in  fact  one  of 
the  most  elegant  hotels  in  the  United  States.  Amer- 
ican  and  European  plan.     I<ooiiis  BKoa.,  Props. 

A  PARTMENTS,  Los  Angeles 

^  fully  furnished,  new,  3  rooms,  gas,  rang-e, 
hot  water,  bath,  telephone,  $14.00  monthly.  F. 
Weisendanger,  Lang-hlin  Building-,  Los  Ang-eles. 

QLARENDON,  Los  Angeles, 

^"^  European  plan,  tourist  and  commercial  hotel 
Central  location,  one  block  from  Broadway. 
Special  rates  by  the  week 

nEL  CORONADO,  ^°b'each*° 

*"^  The  only  perfectly  situated  hotel  in  a  per- 
fect climate  in  the  State.  American  plan.  Deep 
sea  fishing-     Morgan  Ross,  Manager. 

QLENWOOD  INN,  Riverside 

^^  California's  Mission  Hotel,  in  the  heart  of 
the  country  where  orang-es  g-row.  There's  none 
other  like  it  in  the  State.   Prank  A.  MiLLBR,Prop. 

JJOTEL    DECATUR,    <JJiVK 

^  ^  Rig-tat  on  the  beach  of  the  old  Pacific.  One 
of  the  best  hotels  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  New  and 
modern.    YouMl  like  it.    T.  O.  Evans,  Prop. 

UOTEL  HOLLYWOOD,  =»J^- 

^  ^  Cal.  Only  hotel  in  the  beautiful  Cahungm 
foothills.  Unique  for  home  comforts  combined 
with  erery  modern  convenience  of  a  first  class  hotel 


JJOTEL  REDONDO,  ^'^J^r^ 

*-  -*  18  miles  from  Los  Ang-eles,  at  Redondo-by- 
the-sea.  ''The  Queen  of  the  Pacific"  Open  all 
the  year;  even  climate. 

UOTEL  VANCE,  Eureka 

^  ^  American  plan.  Noted  for  excellent 
furnishing-s  and  superior  table  service.  J.  S. 
DouoBBETT,  Manag-er. 

UOTEL  VENDOME,  San  Jose 

^  "^  A  charming-  summer  and  winter  resort. 
Headquarters  for  tourists  visiting-  Lick  Observa- 
tory.   JosBPH  T.  Brooks,  Manager. 

HOTEL  WESTMINSTER, 
LOS  ANGELES.  Largest  and  best.  Euro- 
pean plan.  $1  Der  day  and  upwards.  Service  the 
best.  Cor.  Main  and  4th  Sts.  P.  O.  Johnson,  Prop. 

CT.  FRANCIS,  San  Francisco 

^^  Americans  model  hotel.  European  plan. 
Built  of  stone  and  steel.  Facing-  a  beautiful  tropical 
garden  in  heart  of  city.    Jambs  Woods,  Manager. 

-THE  LEXINGTON,  an^SEes 

*  European.  Cafe  service.  Center  of  the  city. 
165  rooms,  95  with  bath.  Rates  $1.00  and  up.  Fine 
sample  rooms. 

AN    NUYS    BROADWAY, 

Los  Ang-eles.  European  plan,  $1  to  $3.50. 
First  class  cafe.  Special  attention  g-iven  to  com- 
mercial men.    416-422  South  Broadway. 


V 


SAN    JACINTO 

RIVERSIDE  CO.,  CAL. 

HAS 

WATER 

In  inexhaustible  snpplj  and  5,000 
acres  of 

CHeap    I^ands 

1000  acres   of  v\hich    are  for  sale 


LooK      It      Up      Before      Buying 


Artesian  Well,  flows  over  four  hundred 
thousand  gallons  every 
twenty  four  hours 
R.  J.  Carmichael  A  Co.,  Stationers. 
S.  J.  Mead,  Enterprise  Cash  Qrocer. 
Roy   Maione,   Real   Estate. 
State  Bank  of  San  Jacinto. 
Tripp  &  Hopkins,  Butchers. 
A.   W.   Wright,   Banker. 
J.  F.  Hards,  General  Merchandise. 
F.  H.  Fowler  &  Co.,  Groceries. 


Address    CHAMBER    OF    COMMIlRCi: 


or  any  of  the  following: 

C.   E.  Bunker,   Rancher. 
M.   A.   Agulrrle,    Rancher. 
F.  B.  Record,  City  Engineer. 
A.    DomenlgonI,    Rancher. 
Francisco  Pico,  Stockman. 
F.   L.   Emerson,  Cashier  State  Bank. 
Martin  Meier,  Lumber  Dealer. 


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HANFORD 


CAPITAL  Of  KINOS  COINTY,  CALIfORNIA 
THE  f ARIWER'S   PARADISf,  WITH 
A  GOOD,  EVEN  CLIMATE. 


A  KIN08  COUNTY  SCRNB 

The  chief  city  of  Kin^s  county  is  Hanford,  a   population  of  4500. 

Hanford  is  reached  by  the  main  line  of  the  Santa  Fe  Railroad  system,  and  by  the 
west  side  through  line  to  San  Frartcisco  of  the  Southern  Pacific  system.  Its  rail- 
road facilities  are  therefore  excellent. 

Hanford  is  fully  equipped  in  an  educational,  religrious  and  social  way,  havingr 
school  advantages  from  the  kindergarten  to  the  high  school  course,  and  the  various 
religious  denominations,  with  well-built  churches,  represented;  contains  upwards  of 
twenty-flve  fraternal  and  beneficiary  organizations,  several  public  halls,  elegant  opera 
house,  fine  hotels,  two  daily  and  weekly  newspapers,  four  banks,  a  free  public  li- 
brary, a  well-organized  fire  department,  with  excellent  Holly  water  system;  a  sewer 
system  built  and  owned  by  the  city,  some  of  the  finest  and  best  equipped  mercantile 
establishments,  electric  light  and  power  plant,  a  large  and  latest  improved  gas  manu- 
facturing plant  which  makes  fuel  and  Illuminating  gas  from  crude  petroleum;  a  mod- 
ern Ice  plant  that  supnlles  the  local  demand  and  ships  much  to  other  cities  and 
towns,  a  condensed  milk  manufacturing  company,  cheese  factory,  packing  houses  and 
canning  establishment  employing  many  hundreds  of  people;  a  large  winery,  flour  mill, 
lumber  mill,  machine  shop  and  all  the  necessary  adjuncts  to  a  lively  and  progressive 
Interior   city. 

IflUOC  PnilUTV   UAC  The  Best  Irrigation  raclilties 
lilHUO  UUUH  I  I    nA9  m  the  State  of  California. 

and  raises  a  very  diversified  line  of  produce  and 
fruits,  namely:  Alfalfa^  Wheatt  Com,  Potatoes, 
Barley,  Apricots,  Plums,  Peaches,  Nectarines, 
Grapes,  Prunes  Raisins,  and  all  cattle*  Kingfs 
County  is  like  its  name  implies— King;  of  all  coun- 
ties in  California* 

For  further  information  address  any  of  the    following  well  known  firms,  who  will 

gladly  go  into  details. 

Chan.  Kins  L.and  Bureau.  L..  S.  Chittenden  &  Co.,  Real  Estate. 

Ws.  E.  Bush,  I^and  Bureau.  Freeman   Richardson,  Laundry. 

The  Farmers   A  Merchants'  Bank.  S.  C.  Kimball,  Dry  Goods. 

Barney  A  Kelly,   Groceries.  Artesin  HoteL 

The   Old   Bank.  The  Hanford  Bank. 

Tom      S.     Esrey,     Wholesale     and     Retail        Cousins  A  Rowland,  Dmanrists. 

Liquor.  jo^  d.   Biddle,  Real  Estate. 

Central  Lumber  Co.  W.  C.  Galiaher,  Butcher. 

First  National  Bank  H.  Glacy  Co.,  Electric  LIflrht  Works. 
McCourt  A  Newport,  Clothlnar* 


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POONTAIIT  CITY  CRBAM BR Y— $2,500  PAID  OUT   MONTHLY   FOR  CRBAM 

Kf  P^'R^Fn   The   Fountain   City 
XriL^IKl^L^U   ^^  California  ^^ 

TH«    Place  "wHere    tH«   Land  of    Promise   i»    F\ally   Redeemed 

A    FEW    FACTS    ABOUT    MERCED 

1.  The  city  of  Merced  is  lifftated  by  electricity,  the  power  beinr  venerated  at  Merced  Palls,  34  miles  away 
The  same  company  that  llifhts  the  city  supplies  cheap  power  for  all  purposes,  maintainlnir  a  day  current  for 
those  who  wish  to  use  it. 

2.  Mercedes  public  bnildins^s  are  larire and  handsome.  Our  court  house  cost  $100,000;  county  jail  $30,000; 
county  hospital  $50,00i';  hlflrh  school  $20,000;  grammar  nchool  $10,000. 

3.  Merced  presents  many  opportunities  for  profitable  investment.  The  work  of  development  is  only  just 
beffinninff,  so  that  property  values  are  very  low,  when  compared  with  prices  that  obtain  in  localities  that  have 
attained  a  higher  development. 

4.  Merced  has  more  miles  of  cement  walks  than  any  other  city  of  its  size  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

5.  The  cost  of  living  is  but  little  higher  here  than  in  eastern  states. 

ABOUT    MERCED    COUNTY 

6.  Un<«ktlled  labor  is  worth  from  $1.50  to  $2.00  per  day  in  Merced. 

7.  No  pulmonary  diseases  has  ever  been  known  to  oris^inate  in  Merced  County. 

8.  Average  sal  try  paid  school  teachers  is  $70  per  month. 

9.  Girls  doiuflr  house  work  receive  from  $15  to  $25  per  month,  and  are  very  hard  to  ret  at  that  price. 

10.  Poultry  and  dairy  products  command  hisrh  prices  and  find  a  ready  market. 

11.  A  crood  milch  cow  is  worth  from  $50  to  $70.    Good  horses  bring"  from  $100  to  $150. 

12.  Some  of  the  sweet  potato  growers  in  the  Atwater  district,  Merced  county,  paid  the  entire  purchase  price 
of  their  land  with  the  potato  crop  of  one  season. 

13.  The  combination  of  crood  land  and  abundant  w^ter  is  the  mag'ic  key  that  opens  the  door  to  wealth. 
Merced  has  that  happy  combination. 

One  of  the  larg-fst  olive  orchards  In  the  Stale  is  located  five  miles  from  Merced.  Last  year  the  crop  from 
this  orchard  was  sold  to  San  Diego  buyem  for  $80  per  ton,  when  the  same  buyers  were  paying^  only  $60  per  ton 
for  olives  g-rowa  in  ad  join  ing^  counties.  They  said  the  superiority  of  the  Merced  olive  made  it  well  worth  the 
higher  price." 


Address  CHA  MBBR  OP  COMMERCE  or  any  of  the  following  well-known  firms: 

R.   Bancroft,   Hardware.  Merced   Lumber  Co. 

Oliver  &  Warden,  Dry  Goods.  Heltman  &  Heltman,  Dentists. 

Oaridaldl    Bros.,   General    Merchants.  ^^i)^^!^    Bros..   Druggists. 

T    O.  Anderson,   Real   Estate.  |;  g;  ^^J^Jgi^n,  pSSlt^'ure. 

The   commercial    Bank.  S.  C.  Cornell,  Real  Estate  and  Insurance. 

E.  C.  Kocher,  Hardware.  E.  L.  Moor.  Real  Estate. 

Crocker- Huffman  Land  and  Water  Co.  Hayes  Co.,  Butchers. 


Bekins  Van  &  Storage  Co. 


243  South  Broadway,  Los  Anreles 
1015  Broadway,  Oakland 
9  iMontKomery  5t..  San  Francisco 
Room  500.  95  Washington  5t.,  Chlcaff» 


SHIPPERS   OF   HOUSEHOLD  GOODS   AT 

REDUCED  RATES 

TO   AND  FROM  ALL  POINTS 


Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


The  LENOX  HOTEL 

IN  BUFFALO 


North  St.,  at  Delaware  Ave. 

Modem.   Highest  Grade.   Absolutely 

Fire-proof. 

Most  charming  location  in  the  city. 

CUROPCAN  PLAN 

Rates  $1.50  Per  Day  and  Upward 

WIRE  RESERVATIONS  AT  OUR 

EXPENSE 

GEORGE  DUCHSCHERER,  Proprietor 


EL  SAN  LOIS  m 


By  the  Sea 


A  hotel  sitaated  on  a  hiffh  blnfF  facing*  the  sea, 
affording*  a  magnificent  view  of  monntains  and 
sandy  shore,  with  the  warm  sunshine  and  pleasau&t 
sea  breexes  of  a  sonny  sonthem  clime,  fillinc  each 
room.  Open  the  year  round.  On  the  main  line  of 
the  Santa  Fe. 

Write  for  Illustrated  booklet. 


IRA  DAVIS.  Manager 


Occanskle,  CaL 


C.  B.  DAGGETT, 

MANAGER 

Hotel 

San 

Brewster 

Die^o 

California 

EUROPEAN 

$1  00  PER  DAY  AND  UP 

L"Palomn  Tpilet5?ap. 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


HOTEL  ST.  FRANCIS 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


As  It  will  appear  upon  comi^leClon  of  the  North  Wing, 
now  being  erected 

AMERICA'S  MODEL  HOTEL 
CUROPCAN    PLAN 

A  modem,  cmate  structure  of  stone  and  steel,  magnificently 
equipped  and  sumptuously  furnished,  facing  a  beautiful  tropical 
gardeo'park  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  arijacent  to  the  shopping 
district,  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  principal  clubs, 
and  one  block  from  the  amusement  center— an  unsurpaieed  and 
Ideal  location.  Write  for  handsome  illustrated  booklet  free) 
about  Cosmopolitan  San  Francisco  and  the  Hotel  St.  Francis 
to  JAMES  WOODS.  Manager. 


tel 
ngham 

fl.  MASON 
>  ELLIS  8TS. 

tel 

Have  yon  visited  the 

"Angers  Flight?" 

If  not  why  not?     It  in  the 
most  nniqne,  interestioff  and 
pictaresque   incline    railway 
in  the   world.    It   is   in   the 
heart  of   the  city— Hill  and 
Third  Streets,  Los  Angeles, 
■    Cal.        J.  W.  EDDY,  Mirr. 

indsor 

R.  MARKET 
O  FIFTH  STS. 

lANCISCO.  CAL. 

FREE  BUS 

S/500     A    YEAR 

FROM  Ftvm  ACRmS 
NEAR  SANTA  BARBARA 

Ton  can  find  oat  how  it  was  done,  and  how  to  do  It 
yourself,  by  reading* 

"A  l>ractl(ili>Nltiy  IMnt  lor  Soneni  Cimrnli" 

We  will  send  it  on  receipt  of 

Oct  Wsst  Magazins  Co.,  Los  Amobias 

Mira  Mar  Hotel     oceansidi: 

(View  of  the  Sea)  R.  T»M**^*  Prop. 

One  of  the  best  tourist  hotels  at  the  best  ocean  point  in  Southern 
California.  Rates  are  very  reasonable.  Correspondence  solicited 
from  parties  contemplating  a  trip  to  Southern  California.  Good 
hunting  and  fishing  during  winter  months. 


yfOM£/8/ 
MAIN  8666 


127  wsixm  ^'^SPRM^ 


RELIABLE   REAL  ESTATE  DEALERS  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Who  will  tuniitli  Reliable  IwloniiaHoii  r— arding  Califcnila  Real  Ettate.  CliwMit»,  Etc 

LOS   ANQ£L£S.   CALIFORNIA 


We  can  locate  40  families  on  good  Cali- 
fornia Valley  Land,  each    tf^O     per 


160      acres      for 


acre 


foin  Our 

Nei^  Colony  ^?/?rH^*?,*t  ^^'}T  ??' 

^  Ar^\  S.  Spring  St.,  Lo«  Antf«l««,  C«l. 


famUy 

Colonisation  Department 


R.  A.  ROWAN  &  CO. 

BUSINESS  PROPERTY 
200  Hellman  BIdj.,  Los  Angeles,  Cal 


WE  SELL  THE  EARTH 

BA88ETT  &  SMITH 

We  deal  in  all  Idnde  of  Real  Setata,  Orchard  mmd 
Reeldeace  Property.     Write  for  deacriptlTe  pam^tei, 

Rmb  208,  202H  S.  IROABW AY 

LOS  ANQCICS,  CAL. 


OCEAN    PARK,   CALIFORNIA 


ROBBiNS^ 


Ranch  Property 
Beach  Property 
Bxchansea 
Loans  Rentals 

and  inen  ranee 


Saneet  Phone  2591 


No.  144  Pier  Ave. 


OCEAN  PARK. 


The  Security  Realty  Co. 

156  Pier  Ave.,  Ocean  Park,  Cal. 

ACRBAQB,  LOTS,  HOUSES  AND  LOTS 

FOR  SALE 

Specialty  of  Rentioff  Hoases    Fnrnished  and  Un- 
fnrnished  for  any  term  of  months. 


t^^i^tn  Southern  California 

Ocean  Park     Venice  9f  America 

GUARANTY  REALTY  COMPANY 

(Paid  0p  Capital  $50,000)  »•"  C«  WOmj.  rnddett 

140  Pier  Aveme  Oceai  Park,  CaL 

"  We  find  the  Bareatns  " 

SQuthem  (aliloroia  Realty  (o. 

Incorponted  under  the  Laws  of  C«Ufonila  Capital  Stock  |TS.Me.oe 

138  Pier  Ave.,  Ocean  Park,  Cal. 


Branch 
Venice  Office 
Playa  Del  Rev  Office 
Los  Angeles  Office 


Hdlbter  Ave.  and  Oce 

-   No.  10  Windward  Ave 

-    Opposite  Depot 

1S9  South  BitMdwvj 


Venice 

Fortnnes  for 
lavestors 


Perfect  all  the  year  climate 
and  a  perfect  beach 


Ocean  ParK 


BEVERLY-STROUD    CO. 


BeacK  R.ealt^ 


Instmction  and  Amnse- 
ment  for  everybody 

163  Pi«r~Air*. 
0«««n  P»rK.  C*L 


SAN    FRANCISCO,   CALIFORNIA 


ANSWER     THIS    AD 

It  may  secure  yon  a  country  home  in  California.  I 
have  some  very  rood  farms  very  cheap.  Let  me  tell 
yon  about  them  by  mail.  Tell  me  what  yon  want,  I'll 
find  it  for  yon. 

JAY  T.  NASH,  Mgr.  Country  Dept. 

R.    8.   BROWNE   A   CO. 
Fair  BIdo.,  Montoomery  St.         San  Francitco,  California 


S.  W.  COLLINS  &  CO..  Inc. 

Successor  to  California  Land  Company 

City  and  Country  Real  Estate  -Insurmneo 

Property  Managed.    Appraisements  with  Detailed 

Reports 

TCLCPHONC,   IMAIN   S339 

804-6-6  MututI  Bahit  BIdg.        San  Francisco.  Caltf^rnia 


SANTA  CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA 


Beautiful 
Santa  Cruz 


NOW 


Is  the  time  to  secure  a  home 
in  this  favored  spot. 
Send  for  free  sample  copy  of  Santa  Cruz  Timea 


Digitized  by  CjUU^Ic 


Eureka,  California 

Has  regular  and  quick  water  communication  with  San  Francisco,  with  freight  rates 
ranging  from  $1.00  to  $4.00  per  ton,  the  cost  of  living  and  prices  of  merchandise,  clothing 
manufactures,  and  general  supplies  are  governed  by  those  of  the  latter  place,  and  vary 
but  little  therefrom. 

Humboldt  County  Has : 

Great  extent,  affording  choice  of  location.  Cheap  lands  in  abundance.  Its  own 
lumber,  fuel,  food,  wool,  leather.  Ek^uable  temperature,  insuring  bodily  comfort.  Health- 
fullness, especially  absence  of  fevers  and  malaria.  Diversity  of  products,  giving  variety 
in  occupations.  Abundant  rainfall,  guaranteeing  crops  and  water.  Great  natural 
resources  in  divers  branches.  Cheap  lumber,  making  improvements  inexpensive.  Cheap 
fuel,  costing  little  more  than  the  labor  of  taking  it.  Good  schools  within  reach  of  every 
home.'  Good  county  government,  honestly  administered.  Cheap  freight  rates  by  sea  to 
all  Pacific  ports.  The  largest  and  best  body  of  redwood  on  earth  An  honest,  peaceful, 
law-abiding  population. 

Humboldt  Has  Not: 

Chinese,  to  compete  with  American  labor.  Irrigation,  with  its  expense  and  litiga- 
■tiob.  Spanish  grants,  to  cloud  titles  and  bar  settlement.  Railroad  land  grants,  to  inter* 
fere  with  progress.  Codling  moths  to  destroy  the  apples.  Colorado  beetles  to  destroy 
the  potatoes.  -  Summer  thunderstorms  to  interfere  with  harvests.  Long  winters  when 
stock  must  be  fed.  Severe  frosts  to  destroy  vegitation.  Crop  failures  from  any  cause 
whatever.    Cyclones,  bUzzards,  tramps  or  strikes. 


For  further  "in  formation  address  any  of  the  following  well  known  firms  : 

H.   L.   Ricks.  A.  A.  Newcomb,  Real  EtUte. 

Q.   R.  Georgeson,  Real   Estate.  I.   M.   Long,   Real   Estate. 

Belcher  A  Orane  Co..  Abstracts.  Cooper  A  'Regan,  Real  Estate. 

Humboldt  Xounty   Bank.  S.   Q.   Allard,    Real    Estate. 

Daily   Bros.,   Dry  Goods.  Thos.    H.    Perry,    Real    Estate. 

Delany   A   Vounf^.    Wholesale    Liquors.  Eureka   Lighting  Co. 


Digitized  by 


Google 


Digitized  by 


Google 


Sunny   Stanislaus 
County 


MODESTO 

TH«  B«»utlful— TH«  CouBtx  S«»t 

The  Gateway  County  of  the  Great  San  Joaquin  Valley,  California,  where 
the  land  owns  inalienably  the  greatest  irrigation  system— water  and 
canals  alike — in  America,  owned  by  the  people.  The  mecca  of  home- 
seekers.  The  home  of  alfalfa,  king  of  forage  plants.  Our  dairying 
interests  lead  the  State,  ^o  better  soil  and  climate.  Great  fruit  and 
grape  growing  center.  MODESTO  the  leading  city*  of  Stanislaus  County 
and  the  center  of  the  irrigation  district,  is  a  modem  city,  with  municipal 
water  works,  electric  light  and  power,  a  large  and  well-ordered  hotel,  four 
banks,  two  daily  and  weekly  newspapers,  many  stores  of  all  kinds,  and 
other  qualities  and  attributes  of  a  city.  It  has  about  3,500  population. 
The  streets  are  wide,  and  the  business  part  of  the  city  is  built  of  brick, 
many  of  the  buildings  t>eing  ornate  as  well  as  substantial. 

Address  for  literature  and  further  information 

STANISLAUS  BOARD  OF  TRADE 

Modesto,  California 

or  any  of  the  followiii8>  well  known  firms: 

First   National    Banl<.  P.   Latz,   Dry  Goods. 

J.   W.   Bell,   Real    Estate.  Doukin    A    Bacon,    Plumbin^. 

Th9  Q.    P.   Schafer  Co.,  Qenl.    Mercli.  Elmdale  Land  Co. 

Moze    A    Wren,    Real    Estate.  Farmers  A   Mercliants'    Bank. 

Stanislaus  Land  A  Abstract  Co.  Modesto   Gas  Co. 

Stanislaus    Lumber   Co.  Turner   l-lardware  Co. 

W.'  B.  Wood  A  Son,   l-lardware.  E.   T.    Brown,   Retail   Liquors. 

The  Modesto  Bank  . 


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Pre-Columbian 
Relics 

Gennine  Prehistoric 
Pottery,  OrnameDtg  and 
Implements.  DIRECT 
rROM     THE     RUINS   in 

Arisooa  and  New  Mexico 
Collectors  snpplied.  Se- 
lect what  you  wish  from 
my  collection,  examina- 
tion by  photograph  or  as 
desired.  Prices  reason- 
able. 

Write  for  descriptions 
of  specimens  found  in  ex- 
plorations of  the  rnins; 
personally  coriducted  ex- 
cavations.   Address, 

REAMER  LING, 

ST.  JOHNS.  ARIZONA 

Member  Southwest  So- 
ciety, Archaeloffical  In- 
stitute of  America,  etc. 


NAVAJO     BLANKETS 

AND  INDIAN  CURIOS  AtwKoi...i. 

I  have  more  than  250  weavers  in  my  employ,  including  the  most  skillful  now 
living*,  and  have  taken  the  greatest  pains  to  preserve  the  old  colors,  patterns  , 
and  weaves.    Every  blanket  sold  by  me  carries  my  personal  iruarantee  of  its 
quality.    In  dealing*  with  me,  you  will  g>et  the  very  finest  blankets  at  wholesale 
prices. 

I  also  handle  the  products  of  the  Hopi  (Moqni)  Indians  buying*  them  under 
contract  wth  the  trading  posts  at  Keam*«  Canon  knd  Oraibi  and  selling  them 
at  wholesale. 

I  have  constantly  a  very  fine  selection  of  Navajo  silverware  and  jewelry, 
Navajo  **  rubies  "  cut  and  uncut,  peridots  and  native  turquoise.    Also  the  choicest 
modern  Moqui  pottery,  and  a  rare  collection  of  prehistoric  pottery. 

J.  L.  HUBBELL, 

Indian  Trader 

ra*SrrciTj;f'*"'""*  Oanado.  Apache  Co..  Arizona 


FOR   THE   INDIANS 

THE    SEQUOYA    LEAGUE    »*  ^^^^°«    ^^«  Mission   Indians    not 

—    only  by  remedying  abases  and  trying 
to  get  them  better  lands,  but  also  by  eztendjing  the  market  for  their  BASKETS. 
A  representative  collection  is  on  sale,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Campo  reservations,  at 
reasonable  prices  and  fully  authenticated.     These  baskets  can  be  had  of 

Mrs.  Chas.  F.  Lummis      200  Ave.  42,  Los  Angeles 

the:  money  goes  to  the  Indians 

OO   additional   BasKets.    of  mxicH   variety,    recently   received 
Prices,    $2   to    $10 


Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


PASADENA   HIGH  SCHOOL 


THE  EYES  OF  THE 
WORLD  ARE  ON 


PASADENA 


The  city  of  flowers,  schools,  charches,  toarist  and  family  hotels,  splendid  streets,  beantifnl  parks 
and  happy  homes. 

Pasadena,  California,  situated  1000  feet  above  and  25  miles  distant  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is  the 
ideal  home  cirv  of  America.  Althonffh  Pasadena  is  only  a  little  over  twenty-five  years  old,  it  is  a  well 
built  city  of  TWENTY-TWO  THOUSAND  people. 

Pasadena  has  no  saloons,  and  from  the  nature  of  her  charter,  never  can  have.  The  schools 
and  churches  of  Pasadena  are  the  equals  of  cities  having  much  larger  populations. 

A  city  library  containing  25,000  volumes,  housed  in  an  artistic  and  substantial  stone  building*, 
free  to  all  residents  of  the  city,  is  one  of  the  attractions  of  Pasadena. 

D,  W.  COOLIDGE.  Secretary  of  the  Pastdena  Board  of  Trade 


RELIABLE   REAL   ESTATE  DEALERS  OF  PASADENA 


e^LTA'DENA 


The  **Hlffhlands*'  of  Pasadena,  elevation  1200  to  1800. 
The  most  desirable,  accessible  section  in  Southern 
California.  Free  from  fors.  Pine  mountain  water  in 
abundance.  A  perfect  health  resort.  Ranches,  lots, 
and  houses  for  sale.  moNALLY  S  SON 

Pasadena  Office,  26  So.  Raymond  Ave. 
Altadena  Office,  Cor.  Mariposa  St.  and  Marengo  Ave. 


R.  s.  Mcdowell  dt  co. 

REAL  ESTATE  AND  INSURANCE 

Ranches  t>ou«-ht,  sold. and  exchanged  for  city  property 

Insurance  written  in  old  reliable  companies 

Houses  Rented         Rents  Collected 

too  EAST  OOLORADO  STREET 

PASADENA 


Notary  Public 


Ralph  E.  Pearce 

Real  Estate,   Investment  Broker 

Insurance  and  Rentins* 

15  S.  Raymond  Ave 


16c)l^AVM0N0AVE. 


HVSADtNACAL. 


WRITE  US  .: 


ee       •••       eee 


For  free  descriptive  booklet  about  Pasadena  "  the  city 
beautiful."  We  are  doing  a  large  real  estate  business,  and  invite 
correspondence.     References  :  Any  bank  in  Pasadena. 


Sykcs- 
Curtis 
Co. 


30  S 

Raymond  Ave. 
Pasadena.  Cat. 


CU^  «•>%«»  T^'^^  ^^^  Subdivision 
arson  1  raCl  just  placed  on  the 
Market. 

Prices  of  lots,  from  $375.00  to  S750; 


FRANK  C.  TLATT^INVESTMENT  COMPANY 
23  S.  Raymond  Ave.,  Pasadena,  Cal. 


Established  1887 


Incorponted  IWt 


ISAAC  SPRINGER  &  COMPANY 

INVESTMENTS 
RMAL  mmrArm,  immunAMOm,  MORraAomm 

AMD  HIQH-^RADm  mOHOm 


Lom  AHomLmm 

320  Trust  Building 


FAmADMHA 

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SALT  LAKE  CITY 


Is  the  center  of  an  Empire  1,000  miles  in  diameter.  Is  the  largest  smeltinc^  center  in  the  world.  Its 
smelters  will  soon  be  treating*  600.000  tons  per  month,  which  is  more  erery  month  in  tons  than  all  the 
mines  in  Colorado  produce  erery  month. 

There  are  five  mines  in  Utah  that  liaTe  now  blocked  ont  and  in  sic^ht  CUlit  Hmm^94  Mitf  fMty 
MllllMU  •f  IMIars,  Tix: 

The  Catcns $   ff>,fflWi.O0O 

The  Silver  Kinc^ ^S/Wm/WP 

The  Centennial  Eureka ^WPiOOO 

The  Utah  Copper  Co 625,OO0lO0O 

TheHonorine SQ.OU0g0OO 

Total $840,000,000 

and  then  some.** 

All  of  it— all  of  the  money  from  the  ore— comes  to  Salt  I#aUce,  and  besides  millions  more  from  the 
farms  and  ranges  of  the  Inter-monntain  Country. 

The  new  Clark  Road  from  Salt  Lake  to  Los  Angeles  shrinks  the  C9ntinent  500  miles,  and  pnta  the  two 
cities  24  hours  apart.  The  WESTERN  PACIFIC,  Gould's  Coast  Line,  is  about  to  be  built.  It  will 
parallel  the  Southern  Pacific  and  open  to  Salt  Lake  some  more  of  the  ^  NEW  NEVADA.**  The  ModEat 
Line  is  butldinff  from  Denver,  and  in  connection  with  the  Clark  Road  will  cut  the  time  between  Denver 
and  Los  Angeles  to  38  hours. 

These  and  other  reasons,  man  and  God  ffiven,  mark  Salt  Lake  as  one  of  the  neat  cominc^  interior 
cities  of  the  West. 

It  is  eaeilv  reaiched.    Ton  can  be  happy  and  get  rich  there. 

The  climate  is  the  best  in  ihe  world.  Ton  will  be  welcome.  Don*t  wait.  Go  now.  The  nowist  beats 
the  early  worm. 

Write  any  of  the  followinc^  for  further  information  : 
Wilson-Sheman  C«.,  Real  Estate,  HaMard  Invettaeirt  Cs.,  Clayten  k  Cs..  RmI  Esteto.  Itoaer  k  Rshsftota. 
RmI  Estete,  J.  L.  ParkM.  RmI  Estate,  Ymmi  k  Ymm.  RmI  Estate.  Tittte  Btm.,  Real  Estate,  Salt  Uka  CHf 
Real  Estate  Assactatian,  Ranch  Raal  Estate  and  lavastaaat  Ca..  A.  Riditar.  Real  Esteta,  Maaks  k  Lfadi,  Raal 
Estate.  W.  J.  HailaraB.  Raal  Estate.  WastarfiaM  k  CrisaMa.  Raal  Estate.  Walker  Bras.,  Baakara.  Caltea  Hatal. 
McCamilck*t  Bank,  Brawn.  Tarry  k  Waadral  Ca.,  Raal  Estate 


Buyers  of  Real  Estate  in 


Salt  Lake  City,  Utah 

Should  consult  the  real 
live  aiffency  of 

CLAYTON  &  00. 

153  South  Main  Street 


The  best  and  most  profitable  investments  to  be  had  in 
Salt  Lake  are  listed  on  our  books.  All  correspondence 
cheerfully  answered.  Write  for  booklet  about  Great  Salt 
Lake  City. 


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BeacK 


California's 
Greatest 
BeacH  iVesort 


LZFB  SAVING  STATION,  LONG  BBACB 


Population   13,000 


Thirty- five  minutes  ride  from  Lros  Angeles  brings  yon  to  Long  Beach,  21  miles 
dne  south.  A  model  city,  with  a  most  excellent  school  system,  water,  light  and  power 
plants ;  six  banks,  with  assets  of  more  than  $3,000,000.00.  Streets  oiled  and  a  great 
many  paved.  The  finest  climate,  due  to  its  direct  south  exposure.  It  is  reached  by 
the  Southern  Pacific  and  Salt  Lake  Railway  Systems  and  the  Pacific  Electric  Rail- 
way, the  finest  electric  system  in  America,  if  not  in  the  world. 

The  Bathing  Beach  is  14  miles  in  length  of  hard  white  sand,  with  a  width  of 
300  to  600  feet. 

A  feature  of  interest  to  all  visitors  is  the  Long  Beach  Bath  House,  an  institution 
unequalled  in  America,  containing  Warm  Salt  Plunges,  and  all  forms  of  baths.  This 
institution  maintains  during  the  summer  months,  a  complete  Life  Saving  Service, 
offering  visitors  absolute  safety  whilst  surf  bathing. 


Address  any  of  the  following  firms  for  copy  of  the  new  booklet  on  Long  Beach. 
Just  out : 


Townsend- Dayman  Investment  Co. 

Real  Estat* 
F.  W.  Stearns,  Real  Estate 
Mayhew  A  Putnam,  Real  Estats 
Geo.   H.   Blount,   Rsal   Estate 
Frank  P.  PIngree,  Rsal  EsUts 
Shaw  A   Qundry,   Real    Estate 
E.  C.  Covert  A  Co.,   Real   Estate 
Walker  Real  Estate  Co. 


Seaside  Water  Co. 

The  National  Bank  of  Long  Beach. 

Long  Beach  Bath  House  Co. 

J.  W.  Wood. 

L.  A.  Perce 

Young  A  Parmley 

J.   M.   Holdsn 

C.  J.   E.  Taylor 

Aiamltos   Land   Co.,   Real    Estats 


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PlMM  Mention  that  You  Saw  It  in  OUT  WEST. 


Hidnex  Diseases 
Our  Specialty- 

The  Powell 
Sanatorium 

Methods  the  result  of  thirty  years  spent 
in  the  special  study  and  treatment  of 

Kidney  Diseases 

Not  a  Theory,  but  a  Demonstrated  Success 

Conducted  on  liberal  and  ethical  lines,  conforming'  to  right  medical  usage  and  afford- 
ing the  advantage  of  forty-six  years  active  professional  experience,  the  greater  portion 
of  which  was  devoted  to  kidney  diseases  and  attendant  maladies,  gastric,  ataxic  and 
cardiac.    Call  or  write  for  booklet  and  references. 

Office  Honrs:  9.30  a.  m.  to  4.30  p.  m.  P bones:  Main  2769    Home  4074 


416  W.  6th  St.,  Opp.  Central  Park. 


Los  Angeles,  Cal. 


Cancer  Cured 

By  Mrs.  S.  J.  Bridge's  Remedy 

Administered  by  a  licensed 
physician  at 

The  Chester,  454  So.  Spring  St. 
LOS  ANQELES 


No 

Use 

TalKin^ 


The  Schaefer  System  of  Healing  is  the  creat- 
e6t  Invention  for  snfferins*  humanity,  in  all 
cases  of  STOMACH.  KIDNEY,  LIVER, 
BLADDER,  NERVE,  SKIN  and  BLOOD 
di8ea8e8,al8oRHEUMATISM.  BRONCHITIS, 
CATARRH,  JAUNDICE,  DROPSY,  poor 
CIRCULATION,  poor  COMPLEXION,  etc, 
etc.  The  SCHAEFER  HEALING  APPA- 
RATUS is  the  ** SAVING  ANGEL**  in  the 
hour  of  sickness.  If  you  are  sick,  it  will  cure 
you,  if  old,  it  will  put  more  **LIFE"  into  yonr 
yeins.  No  home  is  safe  without  SCHABFER*S 
HEALING  APPARATUS;  this  is  the  opinion 
of  thousands  who  have  been  cured  of  the  most 
Htubborn  diseases.  For  further  information, 
testimonials,  etc,  address  for  S.  California  and 
Arizona,  Rev.  A.  H.  Gunnstt,  1215  Mora  Villa 
Ave.,  Santa  Barbara,  Cal.,  or  address  direct  to 
the  inventor. 

DR.  G.  H.  A.  SCHAEFER 


2002  PeacH  Stt. 


Erie,  Pa. 


Hummei   Bros.   A  Co.,  "Help  CenUr,"   116-118   E.   aecwid  St     Tei.  Miiln  60i. 

Digitized  by  CjOOQIC 


Riverside 


For  all  information  write  any  of  tbe- 
fol  owidff: 
Cr«sm«r   Manufacturing  Co. 
Th«  QJenwQOd  Hotel  Co. 
First  National  Bank 
Rivarside  Savings  Bank  A  Truat  Co. 
Rusa  Lumber  A   Mill  Co. 

E.  J.  Oatman,  Orange  Grower.  rallfArnla 

J.   B.  Oatman,  Orange  Grower.  I;dlll9r0ld 

Robert   Lee  B^ttper,   Real   EMate. 
W.  W.'V^IUon,  Real  Estate. 
Rlverslde>  Trust  Co. 
W.'  T.^  THompssn,  Real  Estate. 
Jarvis  A  DInsmore,  Real^  Estate. 
California    Iron <  Works.' 
NejMrport  'Lumber  Co. 
Riverside   Land   Co.,   Real   Estate. 


"THE  CITY 
BEAUTIFUL" 


MISSION  AKCHITBCTUKB— A  TYPICAL  KIVBRSIDB  HOME 

HANDSOME  HOMES  AND  BEAUTIFUL  PUBi;.IC  BUILDINGS 

DUSTLESS  STREETS  AND  SHADED  SUBURBAN  DRIVES 

MANY  SOCIAL  CLUBS  FOR  POLO,  GOLF  AND  TENNIS 

LARGEST  OUTDOOR  COLLECTION  OF  CACTI  IN  THE  WORLD 

TWENTY  THOUSAND  ACRES  OF  ORANGE  AND  LEMON 
GROVES 

ELEVEN  MILES  OP  UP-TO-DATE  ELECTRIC  CAR  LINES 


Uw  Priced  Lands  for  fruit  Growing  and  Dairy  farming,  Small 
fruits  and  Poultry  Raising 

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A  BIT  OF  SBAHIHOKB  ONB  ICILB  WB8T  OP  SANTA  BARBAKA 

^ANTA  RARBARA 

THe  Incomparable 

AS  THE  IDEAL  HOMELAND,  Santa  Barbara  has  no  rival  on  any  continent.  Here  the  whole  year 
is  so  deliirhtf  al  that  no  month  can  be  described  as  more  enjoyable  than  the  others.  Here  all  the  elements 
of  haf>py  home-baildinff«  perfection  of  climate,  beaaty  of  scenery,  wealth  of  Teffetation  and  conTenienoe 
of  access,  are  present.    Why  not  erect  yonr  home  on  this  winterless  shore,  by  this  snnset  sea  ? 

A  postal  to  C.  M.  GIDNCY,  Sec'y  ClMWter  sf  fi— rce,  Saiti  Bartari,  CaL,  will  brinr  yon  an  illustrated  pamphtet 


Prominent  Real  Estate  and  Business  Houses  of  Santa  Barbara 


Louis  Spader 

Notary  Public 

REAL   ESTATB   AND  IN8URANCB 

AU  corre^xMidsncs  cheerfully  answered 

724  State  St.  SANTA  BARBARA,  CAL. 

fmMl 

Santa  Barbara 
Mineral  Water 

A  natural  Medical  Mineral  Water 
direct  from  the  spring  on  the  mesa. 
Cures  Constipation, Rheumatism  and 
Urinary  troubles. 

Bottled  at  the  spring's  and  guaran- 
teed to  be  in  its  natural  state. 
Shipped  to  any  part  of  the  world. 
Write  for  pamphlet. 

Pinkham  Mineral  Spring  Co. 
Santa  Barbara,  Cal. 

R.  H.  FULWIDER 

KMAL.  mmrATM         Fimm  iitmumAHom         Moummm 

TO  RmHT         RAHOH   ^Ra^MRTY  A  mFmOlALTY 


937  Statm  SrmmmT 
SANTA   BARBARA,   GAL. 


in  Supremely  Beautiful  Santa  Barbara 

OfFers  opportunity  for  substantial  and  profitable  ia 

▼estment.    Information  cheerfully  furnished. 

Furnished  Houses  for  Rent.    Write 

H.  Q.  CHASE, 

Member  California  State  Realty  Pederatioa        728  &TMTK  9 
SANTA  BARBARA 


Gires  a  complete  technical  preparation  for  bntlnen  coaiblaed  wltk> 

good  English  education.    Catalogue  and  drculan  oo  application. 

AddrcM 

E.  B.  HOOYEIt  Principal,  SANTA  BARBARA.  CAL 


DONT  OVERLCXDK 

THE  HOTEL  POTTER 

Real   ;Bstatb 

Arthur  Alexander 

If  you  want  information  about  an  inTestateat  or  a 
home  in  the  prettiest  and  best  city  in  Soathem 
California,  write  me. 

717  SUte  St  Sante  BaHbam. 

Digitized  by 


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CITY  OF     SAN     DIEGO    CALIFORNIA 


SAN  DXBOO  PUBLIC  LIBKART 

CHARMINGLY  SITUATED  ON  THE  BEAUTIFUL  BAY|OF  SAN   DIEGO,  HAS 

14  Public  Schools,  employing  94  teachers.  Good  Private 
Schools.  State  Normal  School.  New  High  School,  costing 
$135,000.  24  Churches.  3  Daily  Papers.  Several  Weekly 
Papers.  Seven  Banks.  Modem  Stores.  Good  Marke^. 
Tourist,  Family  and  Commercial  Hotels.  Many  nicely  kept 
Rooming-Houses.  Reasonable  priced  Restaurants.  68  Miles 
Cement  Sidewalks.  4  Miles  Paved  Streets.  51  Miles  Graded 
Streets.  An  abundant  and  Pure  Water  supply.  A  perfect 
Sewer  system.  Handsomely  appointed  Theatres.  A  magnifi- 
cent Park  area  now  being  developed.  Public  Library  contain- 
ing 22,000  volumes.  25  Miles  of  Oiled,  Dustless  Boulevard. 
Many  nearby  points  of  interest.  California's  first  Mission, 
founded  1769.  The  largest  and  most  attractive  Tourist  Hotel 
in  the  West— Hotel  del  Coronado — just  across  the  bay  from 
San  Diego. 

The  Bay  of  San  Diego  is  a  magnificent  sheet  of  water  22 
square  miles  in  area,  one  of  the  safest  and  best  harbors  on  the 
Pacific,  and  is  an  ideal  place  for  fishing,  swimming,  boating 
and  yachting, 

The  boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico 
is  about  15  miles  south  of  San  Diego,  the  Mexican  village  of 
Tijuana  being  reached  by  train  or  tallyho. 


A   FEW   FIGURES 
BUILDING    PERMITS 

1901— Namber  iasued.  250 valaation  $    123,285.00 

1902-  "      "    127 **      432,140.00 

1903-  *'     "   267 **      710.127.00 

1904-  "  "       SU3 **  1,014.%7.00 


POPULATION 

1900-17.700. 

1906-30,000,  and  still  ffrowinff  fast. 


P08T0FFICE    RECCIPT8 

1901 $4o,iiaoo 

1902 42,687.00 

1903 47  618.37 

1904 56392.99 


BANK    DEPOSITS 

Jaauaiy  1st,  1901 $1,836,715.96 

**  1902 2,058,058.16 

**  1903 2,658.596.92 

*•  1904 3.344,879.42 

"  1905 4.098,215.58 


Further  information  may  be  had  by  writlngr  any  of  these  well-known  firms: 


Twmer  A  Barr,  Real  Bstate. 
Folaom  Bros.  Co.«  Real  Bstate. 
C«l«mklaa  Realty  Co.,  Real  Birtate. 
Geo.  W.  ManitoB,  Depnrtmeat  Store. 
Bartlett  Bstate  Co.,  Real  EUitate. 
RaM   Lamber  A   Mill   Co.«   Lamber. 
Cluidboame  Famitare  Co.,  Faraitare. 
Beeker  A  Vo^t,  Dry  Good«. 


Dodire  Broa.*  Real   Batate. 

Saa  Dleflro  Laad  Co.,  Real  Batate. 

Saa  Dleiro  Realty  A  Traat  Co^  Real   B 

tate. 
Saa  Dieiro  Bleetrle  Street  Railway  €•• 
Prye,  Garrett  A  Smitk,  Prlatera. 
Sarveat'a  GrtU,  GrtU  aad  Reataaraat. 


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,  R08B  TRBB  IN  TUB  GARDBN  OF   A  SANTA  CRUZ  HOMB 

SANTH  eRUZ 

eALiPORNm 

The  Ideal  llome  Site  of  the  Coast 

ROSES,   CALLAS,   GERANIUMS    ANI>    HELIOTROPE    THRIVE   THE  YEAR 
ROUND  IN  THE  OPEN  AIR. 

THE     THERMOMETER      AVERAGES     50°      IN     WINTER     AND     RARELY 
REACHES  90°  IN  SUMMER. 


ENJOY  FISHING  THE  STREAMS  AND  BAY;  DRIVE  AROUND  THE  CLIFFS 
AND  TO  THE  BIG  TREES;  VISIT  THE  SPLENDID  BEACH  OF  FINE 
WHITE  SAND;  SWIM  IN  THE  SURF— TAKE  A  DIP  IN  THE  PLUNGE. 


MAKE  YOUR  HOME  AMIDST  NATURAL  ATTRACTIONS. 


For  further  information  address 

Robinton  k  Co..  Real  EsUte.  Field  &  Cole.  Cirio  Store.  Col.  A.  G.  Abbott.  Livery.  F.  H.  Ptrkor.  Real  EtUte. 
Union  Traction  Co.  Samuel  Leatk,  Dry  Goods.  E.  Jeffreys  &  Sons,  Furniture.  Martin  k  Gardner.  Abstracts  and 
Attorneys.  Seidllnger  Transfer  Co.,  Baggage  and  Express.  Williamson  &  Garrett,  Grooors.  H.  B.  Towns.  Real 
Estate.  Butcher  ft  Walker,  Real  Estate.  Santa  Cruz  Beach  Cottaga  and  Tent  City.  Paolffo  Realty  Co..  Real  Estate. 
Peoples  Bank.  Daniel's  Santa  Cruz  Transfer  Co.  City  Bank.  J.  0.  Home.  86  Froat  St.  The  Baak  of  Santa  Cruz 
County.    Whitney  Bros..  Hardware. 


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COLT ON 

The  Hub  City  of  Southern  California 
The  Center  of  the  Orange  Belt 


f 


"ALL  ROADS  LEAD  TO  COLTON" 

It  is  probable  that  the  most  of  you  have  been  in  Col  ton,  as  every 
railroad  in  Southern  California  passes  through  the  city. 

Did  you  stop  to  investigate  ?    Col  ton  is  an  ideal  place  for  a  home. 

As  a  manufacturing  center  and  distributing  point,  Colton  is  un- 
equalled except  by  Los  Angeles,  as  it  is  the  only  otner  city  in  Southern 
California  on  the  main  line  of  three  transcontinental  railroads. 


For  further  information  address 

COLTON  CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE 

or  an^**  of  the  following  names : 


Colton  Grain  and   Milling  Co. 

William   Anderson 

The   First   National    Bank   of   Colton 

Earl   F.     Van    Luven 

Colton    Fruit    Exchange 

Wilcox- Rose    Mercantile    Co. 

O.    L.    Emery,    Hardware 

M.   A.    Hebberd   Co. 

California   Portland   Cement  Co. 

Colton   Marble  Company 

H.    E.    Fouch   A   Co.,   Real    Estate 

J.  B.   Hanna,  Real   Estate  and   Insurance 

M.  O.   Hert,   Real   Estate 


H.   G.   Vogei.  City    Meat   Market 
California    Citrus    Union 
Colton    People's    Store 
C.    B.    Hamilton   A   Co.,  Grocers 
G.   B.  Caster,  Contractor  and   Builder 
P.   H.   Reed,   Lumber  and   Mill   Work 
Dr.    J.   A.    Champion 
M.    A.    Fox 

H.   G.   French  A  Co.,  General   Merchandise 
W.    H.   Ham 

N.  J.  Davenport  A  Co.,  Electrical  Supplies 
Colton    Pharmacy 


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OODLAND 


THE 

CAPITAL 

OF 


Yolo  County,  California 


WOODLAND  is  only  86  miles  from  San  Francisco  and 
72  miles  from  Sacramento,  the  State  Capital.    WOOD- 
LAND has:  twelve  churches,  three  two-ntory  sram- 
mar  school  bnildinflrs,  one  commodious  hish  school, 
on**  Holy  Rosary  Ac  idemy,  one  well-equipped  business 
college,  the  best  talent  obtainable  for  the  schools,  one  Carneirie  library  buildinflr*  and  fine  free  library,  four 
social  and  literary  clubs,  twenty  fraternal  and  benefit  lodires,  one  20O-barrel  flour  mill,  one  fruit  cannery, 
two  butter  creameries,  one  fruit  and  packinir  establishment,  one  winery,  one  olive  oil  and  pickliuff  plant,  two 
larire  lumber  yards,  four  solid  banks,  four  hotels,  one  large  city  hall,  one  well-equipped  fire  department,  fonr 
larsre  grain  and  hay  warehouses,  a  well-conducted  telephone  system,  an  averaire  rainfall  of  17  inches,   and 
many  commodious  business  houses  representinir  all  lines  of  trade. 

For  Fttrtlier  particalart  address  aay  of  the  followlag : 
MDWCLL  k  RCITN,  Real  Estate  B4NK  OF  WOODUND 

WOODLAND  G4$  k  ELCC.  CO.  GRIQOS  k  BtJSN.  Dry  Goods 

WOODUND  GRAIN  k  MILLING  CO.  BAMK  OF  YOLO 

WEST  VALLEY  LUMBER  CO.  YOLO  COUNTY  SAVINGS  BANK 


Santa  Clara,  California 

TKe  Best  To-wn  in  tKe  Best  County  in  tKe  United  States 

Best  for  Climate,  Soil,  Water  and  Health. 

Best  for  a  Home,  for  Ekiucational  advantages,  for  Society,  for  Churches. 

Every  Agricultural  and  Horticultural  product  grown  in  the  Temperate  2^ne,  is 
grown  here  to  perfection. 

Fruit  growing,  the  growing  of  Hay  and  Grain,  Dairying,  and  the  raising  of  Poultry 
pay  better  here  than  in  any  other  country. 

Santa  Clara  employs  more  labor  than  any  Town  of  three  times  its  si2e  in  the  State. 

Here  the  middle  classes  have  better  homes  and  live  better  than  in  any  place  in 
the  WORLD. 

SANTA  CLARA 

Is  a  Town  of  Municipal  Ownership.    We  own  our  GAS, 
our  WATER,  and  our  ELECTRIC  plants. 


Robert  A.  Fatjo,  Real  Estate 
Klllam   Furniture  Co.,   inc. 
Santa  Clara   Realty  Co. 
Enterprise  Laundry  Co. 
Sallows   A    Rhodes,   Grocers 
Santa  Clara  Cyclery 
N.    M.   Clark,   Confectionary. 
Crosby  A  Leasic,   Dry  Goods. 


Santa  Clara  Commercial  League. 

Santa  Clara  Undertalcing  Co. 

Vargas  Bros.,  Grocers. 

R.  H.  Cheney,  Merchant 

M.    Vargas,    Merchant 

M.   Mello,  Shoes. 

Morrison   Bros.,  Contractors  and   Builders. 

Roll   Bros,  Real   Estate 


Ramon  A  TOILET  ^o  A  p 


FO  R    ^ 
EVERYWHEF?F 


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STANFORD  MEMORIAL  CHURCH 


THE  BOARD  OF  TRADE 


Palo  Alto 

California 
The  Town  of  Leiand 
Stanford 
Junior  University 

Thirty-three  miles  south  of  San  Francisco 
in  the  famous  Santa  Clara  Valley.  Has  the 
most  equable  climate  of  any  place  in  America. 
Population  within  a  radius  of  two  miles,  12,000. 
The  town  is  fully  improved  with  paved  streets, 
cement  sidewalks,  sewers,  public  library,  ex- 
cellent  public  schools,  preparatory  schools  and 
churches,  and  municipal  wat^r  and  iirhtinff 
plants  The  fertile  lands  adjacent  yield  rich 
crops  of  fruits,  berries  and  veiretables.  Prices 
of  both  town  lots  and  farm  lands  are  reason- 
able. Palo  Alto  is  the  ideal  place  for  people 
who  have  acquired  a  competency  and  wish  to 
live  at  ease,  and  for  those  who  wish  to  give 
their  children  a  biirher  education.  The 
educational  features  have  brought  here  a  class 
of  citizens  of  superior  intelliirence  and  refine- 
ment, the  moral  tone  of  the  town  is  excellent, 
and  there  are  NO  SALOONS. 

Descriptive  literature  and  any  desired  infor- 
mation reffardinir  the  town  and  valley  furnish- 
ed free  on  application. 


PALO  ALTO.  CALIFORNIA 


REDONDO  BY  THE  SEA 

Queen  of  iKe  Pacific — £.i|(Kleen  miles  from  Los  A.n|(eles 


RBDONDO  HOTEL 

COOI^  IN  SUMMER— MrnRM  IN  MTINTER 


You  can  bathe  in  the  surf  where  there  is  absolute- 
ly no  undertow.  Take  a  swim  or  a  Hot  Salt  Tub 
Bath  in  one  of  the  larsrest  and  best  appointed 
Natatoriums  on  the  Southern  Coast.  Fish  from 
your  choice  of  three  wharves,  in  a  locality  that  is 
noted  for  its  fishinfft  or  troll  from  pleasure  launches. 


Visit  the  immense  Carnation  Fields  for  which 
Redondo  is  famous.  Collect  Moonstones,  Opals, 
Aqua-marines  and  other  valuable  and  beautiful 
stones  from  Pebble  Beach.  Dine  at  one  of  the 
finest  and  best  appointed  Hotels  on  the  coast,  or 
enjoy  a  delicious  fish  dinner  on  the  beach. 


,  For  further  information  address 

RBDONDO  IMPROVCMCNX  COMPKNY 

REDONDO  HOXBL,  John  S.  IW^ooUacott,  Mgr. 

C.  1^.  GRnSSEU,  Leading  Grocer  O.  C.  HINMSN,  Real  Eatate 


41VrV0  THEATRICAL  COLD  CREAM 


prevents  early  wrinkles.    It  is  not  a  freckle  coatins  ;  it  re- 
moves them.    ANYVO   CO.,  427  N.  Main  St.,  Los  Ans-eleg 


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Please  Mention  that  You  Saw  ft  in  OUT  WEST. 


San  Luis  Obispo 


MAIN   BUILDING,  CALIPOKMIA  POLYTBCHNIC  SCHOOL 

TF  YOU  visit  California — whether  for  pleasure,  health,  or  home-seeking— a  few  days 
spent  in  that  picturesque  portion  of  the  central  coast  section  surrounding-  San  Luis 
Obispo  will  prove  a  profitable  investment  of  time  ;  not  alone  in  compelling  a 
realization  of  the  amazing  productivity  and  the  marvelous  variety  of  resources  dis- 
played by  California  within  a  limited  area,  but  because  this  region  conveys  to  the  im- 
agination a  vivid  expression  of  the  true  California  atmosphere,  the  out  of  door  life  and 
the  perennial  enjoyment  of  conditions  so  conducive  to  happiness  and  contentment  aa 
to  invite  a  careless  dependence  upon  nature's  bounty  that  seems  wanton  in  its  waste  of 
time  and  material. 

Fine  Public  Buildings.    Excellent  Graded  and  Paved  Streets.    Sewers,  triumpkt 
of  modern  science.   Pure  Mountain  Water.    Excellent  Public  Schools.   Churches  of 
all  denominations.    The  home  of  the  California  Polytechnic  School. 
For  any  further  information  address 

San  Luis  Obispo  Chamber  of  Commerce 

OR  

Dawson   Drug  Co.  Commercial  Bank  of  8sn  Luis  Obispo. 

Union  National  Bank  of  San  Luis  Obispo.  Tobrlner  A  Welsbrod,  The  Arcade. 

Sperry  Flour  Co.  San   Luis  Jewelry  Co. 

Andrews  Banking  Co.  L.    M.    Fitzhugh,   Photographer. 

San  Luis  Gas  and  Electric  Co.  J.  Crocker  A  Co. 
San   Luis  Implement  Co. 


Wm.  Uoyd  Qarrlson  was.  bom  in  December,  1805.    The  centenary  of  the  event  to  narked  by  the 
■  publication  of  the  notable  book 

GARRISON  THE  NON-RESISTENT 

By  £rnest  Crosby 

A  sympathetic  sketch  of  the  career  of  the  famous  abolitioiii«t  which  considers  slavery  and  the  Clril 
War  from  an  entirely  original  point  of  view.    Mr.  Crosby  has  writtrn  nothinir  more  profound  and  spirited. 

Now  ready.    16mo.  cloth,  140  pages,  with  photogravure  portrait  of  QarrlMU.  50  cents;   by  m 
84  cents. 

On  application  specimen  copies  of  THE  PUBLIC  will  be  mailed,  also  catalogue 
of  books— the  best  literature  of  fundimental  democracy  (in  the  broad  sense  of  the 
word). 

THE  PUBLIC  PUBLISHING  COMPANY.  First  National  Bank  BIdj.,  CHICAGO. 

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VENTURA,  CALIFORNIA 


(San  Bo«n«  V^nUsra  Mission) 


BKACH  AND  8UKF  AT  VBNTURA 

A  healthy  coast  town,  supported  by  a  very  larffe  prodactive  farming  and  fmit  irrowinff  valley.  It 
has  a  smooth,  compact  sand  beach  with  no  sudden  drops  into  deep  places,  with  a  low  ran^e  of  mountains 
at  its  back.  Louff  drives  over  well  made  roads.  .It  has  excellent  drainage  and  sewerairc,  electric  liirhts, 
natural  sas,  an  abundance  of  irood  water.  Ideal  climatic  conditions,  never  hot,  never  cold.  The  most 
sheltered  spot  on  the  coast,  where  the  business  man  finds  rest,  comfort,  pleasure  and  recreation.  There 
is  a  stronff  Board  of  Trade  and  Merchants  Association. 


First  National  Bank  of  Ventura. 

Ventura  Water,  Light  A  Power  Co. 

J.  K.  Armsby  A  Co.,  CommiMlon  Merchants. 

People's  Lumber  Co. 

A.  L.  ChafTee,  Dry  Goods  A  Clothing. 

John    H.    Reppy,   Real    Estate   A    Insurance. 

Mrs.  T.  B.  Shepherd,  Florist. 


L.  Cerf  A  Co.,  Wholesale  Liquor  Dealers. 
F.  F.  Stiles,  Retail  Liquor  Dealer. 
Hobson   Bros.,  Stock   Dealers  A  Butchers. 
Duval  A  De  Troy,  Hardware  A  Plumbing. 
Jones  A  Son,  Drugglsto. 
Wm.  H.  Cannon  A  Co.,  Real  Estate  A  In- 
•    sura  nee. 


THE  SEM  CITY 
OF  THE  FOOTHILLS 


LOS  GATOS 


SANTA  CRUZ  yOUNTAINS 
SANTA  CURA  COUNTY 


CAIIFORNM 


LIBRARY  BUILDING 

A  most  prosrressiTe  community,  having  irood  schools,  churches  and  business  houses.  An  unequaled 
summer  and  winter  resort  for  health  and  pleasure.  Good  hotels  and  boardinsr  houses.  Foothill  fruit 
excels  any  other  in  quality. 

Further  information  may  be  had  by  addressing  any  of  the  the  following  well  known  firms: 

Johns  A   McMurtry,   Real   Estate. 

Bank  of  Los  Qatos. 

Hotel   Lyndon. 

E.   E.  Place,  Furniture  A  Undertaking. 


Crosby  A  Leask,  Dry  Goods. 
O.  Lewis  A  Son,  Hardware. 
A.  C.  Covert,  Real  Estate,  east  end  of  bridge. 


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««ft««««ftft«ftftft«««ft«ft««ftA«A«ft«ft««««ftft««Ail>|i 


STOCKTON,  CALIFORNIA,  LOOKING  TOWAKD  TBB  HAKBOK 

Stockton,  California 

The  metropolis  of,  and  gateway  to  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley,  is 
rapidly  becoming:  the  leading  industrial  center  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Send  us  four  cents  in  postage  and  we  will  mail  you  a  beautifully 
illustrated  80  page  magazine  telling  all  about  fruit  growing,  dairy- 
ing and  farming  in  Central  California. 

Read  the  illustrated  article  in  this  issue. 

Address,    Boakd    of    Tkade,    Stockton,    California,   or   any   of 


the  following  well-known  firms: 

Eaton    A    Buckley,    Real    Estate. 
R.   E.  Wilhoit  A  Sons,  Real   Estate. 
H.    E.    Williamson,    Real    Estate. 
Boggs,   Meyer  A  Spurr,   Real   Estate  and 

Insurance. 
Rhoads   A    Dudley,    Real    Estate. 
Gardner   Lumber  Co.,    Lumber. 
S.  V.  Ryiand,  Farm  and  Mining  Lands. 


Grunsky,  Dietrich  A  Leistner,  Real  Es- 
tate. 

J.   M.   McCarty,   Real   Estate. 

George  E.  Crane,   Real  Estate. 

The  San  Joaquin  Valley  Land  Co.,  Real 
Estate. 

Frankenhelmer   Bros.,  Grain. 


» 


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SAN 


(SAN  HOSAY) 


The  Garden  City  of  the 


JOSR 

[E  World  JHh^^^ 


And  tHe  Famous  Santa  Clara  Valley 

enLiPORNiA 

50  miles  south  of    San   Francisco.      Most  equable  climate  along  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Richest  Valley  in  Productiveness.     Growing  !    Growing  !  !     Growing  !  !  ! 

Write  for  facts 


For  fnrtner  information  write  any  of  the  following  names : 


T.  S.   Montgomery  A  Son. 

Christmas    A    Orvis   Co. 

Jos.   Rucker  A  Co. 

Jas.  A.  Clayton  A  Co.,  Inc. 

W.   M.  Smith  A  Co. 

Blakemore   A  Atkinson. 

J.   E.   Fisher. 

Johnson  A  Temple. 

St.  James  Realty  Co. 

Crawford    A   Challen. 

W.    M.    Cooper. 

E.  J.  Crandall. 

Garrison,  Crowe  A  Wilson. 

W.  J.   Lean  A  Co. 

Toss  A  Hicks  Co. 

Jas.   W.   Rea   A  Co. 

Harrenstein    A    Landess. 

Eureka    investment    Co. 


W.    S.    Kaufman. 

Garden  City  Bank  A  Trust  Co. 

Chas.    W.   Coe. 

T.  C.   Barnett. 

San  Jose  Realty  Co. 

Porter,  Conklln   Realty  Co. 

First  National  Bank  of  San  Jose. 

Case  Bros. 

Doerr's  New  York   Bakery. 

G.    A.    Adams. 

Albert    Harris,    Santa    Clara,    Cal. 

Walter  A.  Clark  Realty  Co.,  Mountain 

View,   Cal. 
F.  A.   Poland.   Mountain  View,  Cal. 
Parkinson   Bros.,   Mountain  View.  Cal. 
William    P.    Wright,    Mountain    View, 

Cal. 
San  Jose  Chamber  of  Commerce. 


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PlesM  Mention  that  You  Saw  It  In  OUT  WEST. 


V 

THX  OLDB8T  CUSTOM  HOUSB  IN  CAUFOKNIA 

MAIltPrPV  Callfomla- First 

ItI  VII  t.Vl   fUJ     Capital  of  California. 
Sir  icily  in  a  Class  by  Itself 

IRRIGATED 
..  FARMS .. 

OF  FIVE  ACRES 
AND     URWAROa 

in  the  Coaatiesoi 

Fresno  and  Merced 
California 

MILLER  dL  LUX 

LOS  BAMOa.  MEROED  COUNTY 
OAUFORNIA 

Home  oftht  Famous 

DEL  MONTE  HOTEL 

nimatlrallv    ^^'^    ^^^    ^^^°    temperatare.       A 
^limaill/Olljr    picturesque  city  by  the  sea,  where 
home  life    is  made    deliffhtfal    by    every  reason   of 
rood  climate,  ffood  citizenship,  fine  sea  bathing,  fish- 
l  niTf  etc.     Write  any  of  the  following  for  further  informa- 
tion. 

Get.  B.  Uaitrwo9tf                First  NitM  BMk  of  Maiterey 
FrMl[ltollM                       FrMkLOrdwiy 
C.Lto|«to                            H.K.O'BryM 

HOW  TO  00  EAST 

FOR  THE  LEAST  MONEY 


WRITE  ME  k  POSTAL  AND  I  WILL  EXPLAIN 
EITHER  BY  LETTER  OR  IN  PERSON 


G.  F.  HERR,  DIST.  PASS.  ACT.  U.  P.  R.  R.  CO.,  250  S.  SPRING  ST. 
LOS  ANGELES,  GAL. 

S.  F.  BOOTH,  GENERAL  ABENT,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAl. 


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A  Wonderful 
Mountain  Trip 

The  ascent  of  Mount  JU>we  by  trollj  affords  the 
visitor  to  Los  Aqgeles  one  of  the  most  manreloos 
and  beautiful  mountain  railway  journeys  in  the 
world.  And  it  is  only  one  of  the  features  of  a 
railway  system  covering-  400  miles  and  reaching^ 
all  the  points  of  interest  in  the  garden  spot  of 
America. 

The  Pacific  Electric  Railway 

Depot  at  corner  6tb  aid  Mali         -         -        -         Los  4igeles 


TKe  Scenic  L.ine  of  the  World 

The  Danver  and  Rio  Granda 

IVailroad 

Travel  in  comfort,  at  same  time  witness  Grandest  Scenery  In  the  World.  Open 
observation  cars  (seats  free)  giving  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  Royal  Gorge  and  other 
scenic  attractions. 

TKrou|(K  Standard  and  Tourist  Sleepin|(  Cars 

For  information  address 

T.  D.  Connelly,  General  Agent  T.  f.  fitzgerald,  DIst.  Pass.  Agent 

230  Sonth  Sprinsr  St.  Los  Ancreles 


The  Oeligbtf  il  Sceaic  R«gte  t* 

Santa  cMonica 

And  Hollywood 

Fine,  Comfortable  Obtervation  Cart- 
Free  from  Smoke 

Cars  leave  Fourth  street  and  Broadway,  Los  Ansreles.  for  Santa  Monica  via  Sixteenth 
street,  every  15  minates  from  6.35  a.m.  to  0.35  p.m.,  then  each  hoar  till  11.35;  or  via  BellevD<% 
Ave.,  for  Coletrrove  and  Sherman,  every  hour  from  6.15  a.m.  to  11.15  p.m.  Cars  leare Ocean 
Park,  Santa  Monica,  for  Los  Anffeles,  at  5.45,  6  10,  and  6.35  a.m.  and  every  half  hoar  frum 
6.55  a.m.  till  8  25  p.m.,  and  at  9.25,  10.25,  and  11.05  p.m. 

Cars  leave  Los  Anflreles  for  Santa  Monica  via  Holly  wood  and  Sherman  via  Bellerve 
Ave.,  every  hour  from  6.45  a.m.  to  6.45  p.m.,  and  to  Hollywood  and  Sherman  only  every 
hoar  thereafter  to  11.45  p.m. 

^i^For  complete  time-table  and  particulars  call  at  oflBce  of  company. 

Sinffle  Round  Trip,  50c.    10-Trip  Tickets,  $2.00. 

816-822   WEST    FOURTH    STRUT,    LOS   ANOILIS 

TROLUET    PA/rriES    BY    DAY    OR    NIQHT    A    mFeOtALTY 


Help— All  kinds.   8«e  Hummel  Bros.  A  Co.,  116-118  E.  Second  St    Tel.  Main  500. 

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A    TRArN    OF  THOUGHT 

THE 

"Los  Angeles  Limited'' 


A  through  train  daily  between 

Los  Angeles  and  Chicago 

66  hours — vi^Salt  Lake  City.     A  train  of  elegance,  speed  and  safety,  running 
over  the  following  lines :  Salt  Lake  Route,  U.  P.  R.  R.,  C.  &  N.  W.  Ry. 

Souvenir  Books  Free 

E.  W.  GILLETT.  G.  P.  A.  T.  C.  PECK,  A.  G.  P.  A. 

LOS  ANGELES 


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Grand  Canyon  in  Arizona 


SANTA  FE 

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Portland.,  Oretfon. 

1905         ^ 

The  highest  award  within  the  power  of  the  jury  to  confer,  THE  GOLD  MEDAL 
of  the  Lewis  &  Clark  Exposition,  Portland,  Oregon,  has  been  given  to 
Mellin's  Food  in  recognition  of  its  great  value  to  humanity.  Mellin's  Food 
has    always    received    the    highest    award    wherever    exhibited    for    awards. 

At  St.  Lo\iis,  1904-,  Mellin's  Food  was  the  ONLY  Infants'  rood 
to  receive  the  Highest  award,  which  was  THE  GRAND  PRIZE. 

MELLIN'S    FOOD     COMPANY,  BOSTON,     MASS. 


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